Ford & Dana Axles Pinion Seal Replacement: Tricks of the Trade

[@uponthemesa]

Dude, you have no idea how much we appreciate you. You're absolutely awesome. I hope that puts a 😊 on your face.

[@cerwin21]

Man I so appriciate you dont yell at the camera, produce clean sound, no background noise, and most of all your just a caring and clean as I work on my stuff.

[@oldschool4388]

This video is Timeless! Well spoken with clear and concise instructions. Unobstructed camera views. A masterpiece!

[@chieft3357]

The one thing I really like a lot was your technique on CLEAN. I was a line mechanic for a long time and I've seen some other mechanics not do a clean job as you did and there were come backs. You have a good work ethic and I want to thank you for that.

[@jjbeemer]

Thank you! Thanks to your video, this 51-year-old woman was able to change her first rear pinion seal. No more dripping under the differential, and seems to be driving fine.

[@mombux]

this 41 year old is about to do it

[@jjbeemer]

Maria Barahona #Icepips you can do it! My repair is still holding just fine!

[@coreyfranklin5636]

LP pp

[@coreyfranklin5636]

LP pp

[@Marco-fi6gv]

@@mombux awesome 👍🏼

[@billcaddy7156]

I am a retired mechanic in Australia. I have seen many vehicle repair clips out of America however, I have never seen anyone as though as you, it reminds me of how I was taught many years ago. Keep up the good work. Regards Bill Caddy, Bundaberg, Queensland, Australia.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Bill Caddy Thanks!

[@markwarner8336]

oops I have never marked the flange of the drive shaft , never had any problems

[@6spd85notch]

He could’ve checked preload and at least used a new crush sleeve for the $2.50 and tightened it to the old preload instead of depending on threadlock to keep an old used $5 nut in place. Maybe some sealant on the splines of the pinion. A lot of video but left out the important parts.

[@wansolve2036]

Mark Warner it helps keep the original balancing intact. I've seen it cause Probs where there's a lot of balancing weights on the driveshaft.

[@hyates7719]

@@FordTechMakuloco Can you please let me know how much you charge to repair the rear pinion on my 2004 Ford Explorer XLT? You are very thorough, hard to find that anymore. Way to Go.

[@benpeters1940]

This is the 2 or 3 time watching this video and just realized that you used two different vehicles. Thank you for the video. Now I know I can replace the bearing and seal without removing the gears.

[@Cannibal440]

It's the same vehicle throughout. He just put a new drive shaft on. At 25:05 he mentions this.

[@gungadins]

Less than an 1 hour and I was done with my Ford, without this video I don't even think I would have attempted this job. Thanks for this video!!

[@timothycc711]

Brian i just wanted to say thank you for all the professional level educational step by step videos. You really do help us Ford owners save alot and learn alot at the same time. Thank you , Thank you!😊

[@tylerlarsen4714]

Ever since I bought my 04 F150 I have been watching most of your videos learning so much about my truck. My pinion seal went out and low and behold you had the perfect video on it. I was able to do the whole job easy. Thanks for sharing your skills. I appreciate it tons!

[@mcfriedchicken1972]

So its an easy job for a DIYer?

[@tylerlarsen4714]

Yes if you have the right tools. At the time I didn’t have any electrical tools just hand tools and did it fine. You can do it!

[@Randomgearhead]

i always use a metal scribe to mark my pinion nut and flanges because of what you just did, always found myself cleaning my paint marks off! Great video!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Random GearHead I rely mainly on the thread count and feel

[@Randomgearhead]

yeah, I bought a nice dial type torque wrench and when I started out would use it. while rotating the pinion I tried to watch the gauge, didn't take long to learn a faster and better way. I do use when i set up new rear ends for the proper drag. I'm glad to see someone as particular and clean while doing certain jobs as I am.

[@ugotlj4133]

​@@FordTechMakulocoHELP!! I didn't mark my preload settings. Now how do I set preload?

[@jvm3753]

Remember to ALWAYS check the vent. Lots of times, the vent gets clogged, and the diff can't vent, and the oil finds the weakest link; pinion seal or axle seals, to vent the pressure inside the diff.

[@ShopGoatVentures]

Where is the vent?

[@jvm3753]

@@ShopGoatVentures on top of the diff, at one side or the other

[@jvm3753]

@@ShopGoatVentures what kind of vehicle?

[@jvm3753]

@A NEW MINDSET what kind of vehicle?

[@ShopGoatVentures]

@@jvm3753 found it, thx

[@mrxmrp8795]

Hi, great video, if the rear end has a vent tube and fitting, might want to check to make sure that's not plugged.

[@warrend114]

I traded my f-250 but still watch your videos just for fun. You do a great job and show great attention to detail

[@warrend114]

Ok genius show me where my grammar and or diction was lacking.

[@dwarfyh32]

Just used your video as a guide to replace the pinion seal on a Dana 80 diff on our RV. Not done anything like this before but your video is very clear and informative and made it an easy job 👍

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Awesome!!

[@teecuzbruh4058]

I just changed my complete driveshaft to an aftermarket one with greasable u-joints from CCI Driveline in Casco MI, shipped right to my door in Louisiana, thanks to the nightmare known as staked in U-Joints that are $80 bucks a piece by themselves for the replacements with shims. Never mind the headache of having to fight with this staked in joint, one wonders if things don't go perfect if that stock shaft with shimmed joints would ever be balanced. The joints were still okay after 15 years just starting to squeal enough for me to worry about ruining this pinion seal which is still good. When I was swapping the driveshaft I noticed I was able to get a flathead screwdriver in one of the 2 interior holes to pry it off without having to hammer at all. Note the 2 small holes at 7:17 nearest to the seal.

[@gethinevans8596]

If the yoke is scored you can use a thing called a SKF Speedi-Sleeve to slip over it and make a nice smooth interface to the new pinion seal. My old TJ had score marks and this was a way to fix it without replacing the yoke. Nice video !

[@nucciluv]

This video was absolutely amazing and the ONLY one that I could find that actually made sense. The step by step was easy to follow, the tips and tricks were spot on. After reading so many reddit horror stories I was ready to bring it to the shop. This right here is the reason I didn't!! Thank you

[@quapus]

First time viewer seeking to learn more about what I pay for in various repairs. Your detailed descriptions & excellent camera work make for excellent viewing & learning. Added to that, like a good chef who keeps chopping blocks clean, your careful consideration for clean parts as your replace things is a helpful lesson. Great, informative job. Many thanks! Pol

[@lukesw2]

Excellent video! Helped me change my pinion seal yesterday. I watched several other more abbreviated videos videos which made it look a lot easier than it was. This one was pretty accurate. Of course every truck is going to be a little different, but the basics were the same. Thank you for posting!

[@tracylee2209]

What was the point of counting the threads and marking the nut position if you didnt reference it when putting it back together?

[@willhikearizona]

Strong work. Now look at you with your own shop and multiple lifts. Keep grinding!

[@ForkliftJoe]

Love a nice, clean floor to work on without a creeper. I use the blue moving blankets from Northern Tool to lay on.

[@mrbigg7255]

ForkliftJoe get yourself some yoga mats. Comfortable.

[@tm171717]

Appreciate the video just put a new pinion seal and U-joints in a 2001 F-150. Everything went smooth except for the easiest part, the retaining clips on the u-joints. I couldn't get them in. Long story short I hopped on the internet and found out that a lot of people were having same problem. The solution, grind down the clips until they fit. Not to worry about strength they were easily twice as thick as the originals. Thanks again without this video I would never have attempted saved me some nice cash.

[@rfvc600r]

Hell yeah. You're one of the few KZbin geniuses that help keep this pizza man rolling. Thanks!

[@robertrossi8997]

Thank you so much for this excellent video. I did this to my F150 yesterday and would never have tried it myself if I didn’t see you do it. FYI...instead of buying that expensive Ford seal installer I used a short piece of 4” PVC pipe and it worked perfectly. I did grease the spring in first though. Thanks again.

[@rcchar]

Why did you replace the drive shaft, instead of replacing thing the U-joint?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Randy Charlton It had many issues with balance weight rotting an falling off, rear u-joint seized which is staked so the u joint kit is about 3 times as much plus lots of labor and the front joints was starting to seize also. If I fixed al of that it would cost more than an all new driveshaft from Ford that I sold to the customer at cost. Also there was over 230k miles on this shaft.

[@rcchar]

+FordTechMakuloco Ok I was thought there was a reason. But you did not say in the video. Thanks.

[@rhymeswithteeth]

"...balance weight rotting and falling off..."? Really? Hmmm.

[@bassamahmad1927]

the balance weight was rotting and falling off

[@jdreaper2176]

Wow Brian lays on a concrete floor no pad and kneels on a concrete floor too. 1 tough guy ! 💪

[@ozzstars_cars]

Another well done video. Last weekend I special ordered a new '16 F150 XLT, 4x4 regular cab longbed. It should be arriving in 8-12 weeks from the factory coming from the Kansas City Plant. I went with the 5.0L V8, since I have to work on my own junk when it's out of warranty in the future. I didnt want to deal with any stink'in turbo problems down the road and I wanted the factory snow plow option to boot. Thanks for your input and videos you have given me helping make my decision clear. Take it easy - Glen

[@mopargssr]

Even a Ford technician uses Mopar rust penetrant! That and Kroil are my two favorite rust penetrants out of everything I’ve used. Does Ford have their own rust penetrant? Marking the pinion nut and counting the threads on the pinion is a new tip I learned from your video! Thank you for all the tips!

[@Adamadam-pz3cz]

In Wisconsin here I call thread sealant Rust. it's only a matter of a winter and them threads seal up nice. lol

[@AmosMosesJr]

Thread sealant seems to help prevent rust in some spots.

[@BallsMcVaultCock]

This is my mantra

[@skkfor]

Clear, concise and easy to follow -PERFECT! Exactly what I was looking for. I'm loving your attention to detail and the sense that "neatness counts". You make the "right way" obvious, sir. My sincere thanks for taking the time to post the vid.

[@johndidier7849]

Why not use a shaft protector when using a puller? When You have to use a power tool to pull all the more reason in My opinion. I totally admire this wrenchman and have much to appreciate all He has taught to Us. Just a notion

[@jamesdoole4704]

Thanks great video , thanks for taking the time to do these videos, and for all the help and advise you have giving use out here in the back yard Mechanic World .

[@traildadd]

So I messed up big. I didn’t count threads or mark the pinion nut. What can I do now? I can see 5 threads before the blue locktite starts. Also my bearing seems to be stuck. I wasn’t able to pull it out like the one in your video. I have a limited slip 5:33 9.75 with 300k on it. Thanks.

[@quicklooksentertainment3217]

Aloha FT Makuloco, I just wanted to thank so much for sharing your knowledge unselfishly with the world. I have a '06 F250 4x4 and a 4x2. And though I have the complete volume of the factory manuals, without seeing or hearing some of your tips wouldn't give me the confidence to tackle most of the work myself. Your videos are clear, well shot w/good lighting, and comprehensive to understand. You are a gifted teacher and technician, just wished you were in Hawaii and on island. LOL. Please keep up the awesome work. (It shows that you enjoy your profession.) By the way, realizing an unbalanced driveshaft can cause vibration and lead to problems, like you said in this vid, what is your opinion on a 1-piece driveshaft? My 4x4 is lifted 6" and the 2-piece driveshaft looks straight and shimmed at the carry point. But the universals and the shafts are a bit rusty. I'm just wondering if to order stock or go with a 1-piece. I appreciate you, brother. Blessings.

[@Psa354318]

I just picked up an 06 fx4 and i will probably tweak the algorithm learning from your videos. Thanks in advance

[@mysock351C]

Personally I would normally replace the crush sleeve and outer bearing/race doing a pinion seal (gets damaged during the removal of the pinion gear). But it would be a good idea to measure the preload using an in-lb wrench before and after if your not replacing the crush sleeve. The carrier will add to the reading (about 2 to 4 in-lbs), but at least you have a way to verify that the preload is still within reason. Otherwise its just a guess.

[@briana8308]

The sleeve and outer bearing/race always get damaged during removal of the pinion seal? How would you measure the preload? Torque wrench? And would you also torque down the preload? What is preload? Do you then load?

[@mysock351C]

@@briana8308 I have sets of checking bearings that are a loose press-fit for setting up the rear. The bearings are fairly tight tolerance so there's no real variability on the final measurements. Basically the bearings can be removed/installed as needed when setting up the pinion depth. Final installation is then tightening the pinion nut with a large breaker bar and measuring the preload with a small in-lb. beam wrench as I go. I think Matco might still sell them. After that just a final check of the pattern to be sure all is well. But yes when driving out the pinion the front bearing can cause false-brinelling on the race from the impacts since its a press fit. Best to just replace them as a matter of course rather than try to reuse.

[@JedGrant6]

Agreed, a new crush sleeve as well as a before and after pinion+carrier preload measurement, plus replacing the pinion nut are all ways to do it right. I cringed when he didn’t check any preload and just hammered away on the pinion nut. If it’s right, he’s lucky.

[@dzeyo651]

id say its a matter of marking, tsking notes and 'feel' if youre reusing the same parts .. but yeah, if you want to replace everything and re-set up, by all means, make a day of it .. sounds like fun .. we were replacing a seal right?😂

[@Wub892]

Sweet. Just got a 2 jaw flange puller since I can't ever find the Ford kit in the shop. Someone usually has it for a while or put back in the wrong spot. Only 782 specialty tools in red boxes to look at but I'm excited to use it. I got a front pinion seal on a 13 f350 to do and this should be about on par.

[@user-ym4qh2qw6z]

also need to ck the vent tube for any obstructions as well.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+J yup I've seen that

[@chrisw8114]

You are keeping my truck alive with these videos.

[@bartprice3439]

Whenever I work under a truck like that, I usually run my winch line to a snaych block o. the tree alongside my driveway and attach the cable hook to my belt so I can just hit the wireless winch remote and pull my stoved-up corpse from under the truck. I can only hope that eventually, my yellow lab will learn to grab my pant leg & drag me out on command instead of just crawling under & licking my face.

[@captainfancypants4933]

what about buying one of those crazy electric scooter type creeper that will put lower you on to your back and raise you to a seated position?

[@sberryscake]

thats FANTASTIC! and ya... if you are at or below labrador level, it warrants an immediate face licking.

[@steveruegge5504]

Great video. Lights, close ups, content, and good delivery. Damn I can do this now.

[@bobbeaman9824]

Makuloco, maybe buy a lift? Great videos as always. Also Ford recommends using a new pinion nut, but I am pretty sure you knew that already.

[@nicholasfrench4374]

Always representing Milwaukee in a subtle way. I like it.

[@joukolehtomaki]

How come you re-installed the badly pitted bearing and not replaced it with a new one? You said the bearing was making noise...

[@brickwal92tt]

I have the same concern and I figure it's because the race is probably just as pitted. Replacing the race would require pushing it out from the other side, which requires gutting the diff. It makes no sense to put in a new bearing into a pitted race? Unless the race can be removed from the same side, which I doubt..... If the bearing is pitted, the race is probably just as bad since they ride on eachother.

[@BenjaminHansen]

I assumed the inserted picture of a pitted bearing was not the actual bearing that was in that truck. He just showed a bad pitted one for reference.

[@Ashroyer86]

He mentioned that it wasn't being rebuilt "yet" so I think that's in the plans. Probably a customer money or time issue. When he replaces that bearing and race MOST likely the other bearings will be pitted too and that would call for all new bearings, seals, and possibly ring and pinion gears and more in a worse case. Makes sense to change the bearing when they plan on doing the rebuild.

[@Gotdurt]

@@Ashroyer86 Yep, he mentioned at 34:35 it was a cost issue and he'd already done a bunch to the truck on this particular job.

[@justinfontaine-qo9cp]

One of the best mechanics I've ever seen, if not the best!! Thanks brotha

[@chevy2440]

Thanks for the video!!! Everything is explained well. I always worried about the preload but how you explained it makes sense. Getting ready to do an 07 crown vic P71 with a leaking seal.

[@nicholaselias8542]

I had an 07 mustang I put a 4.10 ring and pinion in and I remember the worst part was puttin the pinion nut back on and setting the preload. I took a 6 foot long pipe and drilled some holes so that the flange bolts held it in place and then had to use a breaker bar and a piece of pipe with the diff out of the car and then tighten that SOB down. It had a crush washer. Its really an art you just have to have a feel for. When it got close even an eighth of a turn could make you go over!!!

[@jakebrakebill]

I always pull the pinion gears and use a new crush collar so I know for sure what my bearing preload is. But I guess if your just buying some time before a rebuild.

[@lesglover6515]

If your yoke isn't sloppy, you don't need to worry about a crushed sleeve. If you count the threads and the turns that it takes to get the pinion nut off, all you have to do is follow those steps when you put it back on with a little blue loctite. Everybody does that when they don't want to crack their gears and have to worry about setting lash.

[@josepadilla2462]

great video love it! i have 2004 ford escape my seal is leaking also, so my question is how to you transfer the marks from the old drive shaft to the new drive shaft? Thank you for any help

[@shantor100]

Stinks working on your back doesn't it. It kills my neck afterwards but its all I've ever known with my vehicles. Thanks for the great vid. I'm going to tackle this exact job in a few weeks

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+shantor100 I don't mind it.

[@KollynJ]

FordTechMakuloco What is the loud clunk transmission drop noise somewhere from the rear end of driveshaft when slowing down? Noticed it happens in 4wd especially. I put 4wd hub deleted on yesterday as I just bought the truck used and it had 4wd problems as well. The light doesn’t come on but seems to be working fine in 4l and 4h but still have it up on the lift so not sure yet

[@trippiii7715]

I usually don't subscribe to people but sir you are GOAT!

[@normansmith7806]

Very good step by step video!

[@BGGarage]

One of the best diy guides period. Good diy home garage work

[@troksii]

if I forgot to measure and mark for preload, what's the correct way to put it back to the right preload? you're video is awesome, gave many more tips than the how to I used.

[@omarscreamteam]

Troy Kent Shafer II did you ever get a answer for this question I did the same thing

[@troksii]

omar bynum the answer was, the crush sleeve has already been crushed. you have to tighten it down and judge by turning the wheels. that's what I did. been driving on it since I made that comment. retired mechanic confirmed that's the only way you can... or buy new crush sleeve and torque to spec.

[@ant98tan]

Great videos my brother. One of my favorite technicians in KZbin. There are many and respect to those such as yourself. Always detailed and specific explanation to help understanding. Thank thank you.

[@tomduncan1970]

Your Videos are spot on. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@hoborosser1785]

In the south where dirt daubers are king to prevent a comeback check the diff vent tube for a restriction.

[@rdp2370]

Do you recommend using some sealer on the outside of the seal when installing it or no? Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

No, if you buy a quality seal like the one shown in the video it already has a sealant bead around it.

[@bthompson1767]

Did you count the threads putting the nut back where it was before you removed it or does it matter

[@godinez927]

thank you sir for the video love your video from start to finish now I feal little more confident doing the job.

[@JohnDoeEagle1]

I've got a leak in the rear differential seal on my 2002 F-250 Super Duty with 156,200 miles on it. I'm not sure if this video is identical, or applicable to the much larger 10.5" rear end in the Super Duty trucks?....It however points me in the right direction and helps me understand the procedure covered in my shop manual. The tricks save a lot of time and foolproof a lot of potential errors going by the books methods. They detail a fairly large portion of setting the preload and re-torquing the nut and whatnot. Screw that shit!! I like the white paint marker method and counting your threads much better. Also having the axle on jack stands and in neutral to spin to get at the bolts straight on and when the time comes to have a helper apply the brakes is a genius trick and sure bet time and frustration saver. I'm going to go ahead and replace my universal joints while I have the driveshaft out at the same time. I'm already very familiar with that and marking everything on your yokes so it goes back the exact same way.....using a 20 ton press and sockets or black pipe couplings to press the caps out or back in and whatnot. I've done U-joints quite a few times in various vehicles over the years. This damn rear seal scared me a bit though before watching this video. The book should explain an easier and goof-proof method such as yours instead of writing a whole chapter how to reset your preload, balancing issues and torquing etc...etc.. As always, thanks for the video. You are one of only a very select few on KZbin whom I trust and really know what you are doing....I hate watching Earl and Ed the two retarded rednecks screw up their own vehicles....and lead others down the same amateur blunder filled path too! From: The licensed HVAC Technician who's been at it since I got out of the United States Marine Corps. Semper Fi~

[@joshmedlin976]

Do you have plans of installing a lift some day? obviously you wont be able to raise it too high, or have the most room for that part haha. But just curious, do you have any intentions of installing one someday?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+joshua medlin A mid rise lift has crossed my mind for shorter wheel base cars and trucks. I can move the door opener to the side of the garage and I have pretty high ceilings in the garage 10ft or so.

[@beastlyendeavour9184]

You were tired on the test drive. This was a good one 👍 Thanks

[@breeze45]

...and you did while lying on the garage floor like most of have to do it! thanks and well done as usual.

[@jacobrael9872]

My dad is gonna help me do this tommorow on my crown vic and we have nowhere else to do it but in a gravelly alley lmao so it's nice to see that I can be done without using a lift like every other video

[@greasee.monkey7224]

It's amazing. I've been watching you for years, and have done many of these, yet still manage to learn something new. Thanks Brian! 👍👍

[@MrPami9899]

is it the same for the 3rd gen explorer front and rear axle

[@MrPami9899]

Thanks

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+STEEVE DAVID Nicolas yes this same basic procedure applies to both independent and straight axles. 8.8 9.75 and even 10.25 axles on probably 30 plus years of ford axles.

[@MrPami9899]

+FordTechMakuloco thanks,how about the seal where we hook up the cv shaft

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+STEEVE DAVID Nicolas Those either have c clips or retaining rings holding those in

[@MrPami9899]

Ok, thanks

[@dukenukem5768]

You cleaned off old sealant from around the aperture when you took the old seal out @15:40. However you did not use any sealant when you put the new seal in. Did the new seal have some sealant integral with it?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yup they sure do, the Ford seals have a sealant bead around the outside that gets activated when set.

[@gregfowler8472]

never use an impact wrench on pinion flange ruins the brearings

[@outdoorzone]

Why??? Does that go for removing and installing?? Thx

[@kevinderksen8240]

Thanks for the great video. I just changed my seal over the weekend and for the most part it went pretty smooth. I used a piece of exhaust pipe that fit the seal diameter to seat it into place lol. Whatever works and saves you a little money. It was $10 for that over the $82 for a bearing a seal seating kit from NAPA. Again, thanks and God bless my friend. Kevin - Alberta, Canada

[@wyrtwister4260]

I have used a large 3/4" drive socket for a seal installer . God bless Wyr

[@davidcolinstillman5585]

THANK YOU FOR LETTING ME TAG ALONG WITH YOU & TRYING TO LEARN NEW THINGS ABOUT MY TRUCK ! BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS ON YOUR JOURNEYS ! ENJOYED !

[@trailridescj7528]

Had that spring pop off on a Rockwell diff a long tim ago. Used two picks with the 90 at one end to work it back on.

[@jjmcq2327]

It is great to see that you are still able to do excellent work without a lift. thank you!

[@sandrarichardson2713]

My differential is leaking...it looks like it is from the pinion. Thanks a million for this video. I try to do all I can myself. I believe I can do it. Would you also replace the axle seals at the same time since there are 170k miles on the truck? Have changed the gear oil one time before just for maintenance sake about 50k miles back. Limited slip. Ok...Really grateful for decent camera shots. Every once in a while you will mention doing something and it is not shown on the video nor the type of product...ie putting some grease on a part before installing or there was the thing of cleaning sealant when removing something but I don't recall sealant being put on something when putting in new parts. I will watch it again about 50 times---lol---before tearing it up. Wish I had a second vehicle in case I need to run to town--20 mile round trip. Jesus bless.

[@joniferdoladol4277]

Thanks man your video really helpful,i'm not a mechanic but i love watching video like of yours,so now the name of that seal is "pinion seal" thank you very much

[@rockmuncher1]

Thanks for the video. I'm wondering if a plugged vent causing a pinion leak will make seal replacement necessary after the vent is cleared.

[@tech595]

Excellent video. I like how you did it on the floor like the rest of us and not on a hoist.

[@kingm6247]

Omg you real goood at it I am not a mechanic but i work on my company trucks But i will learn alot from you My friend you are the best ever Thank you so much for all your knowledge

[@Liche.mei.bawles]

What was the purpose of indexing the driveshaft before removing it since you ultimately replaced it? And with the new one did it need orientated a certain way to balance with the rest of the drivetrain?

[@randyboerdyk9186]

Excellent step by step video. I'm about to do my truck today and was a little sceptible until I watched your video. Thanks for explaining the extras like marking flange and drive shaft to ensure balance. Once again excellent job on video

[@andrewglidden2921]

Thank you for this video! Greatly helped me complete this job over the weekend. One note, the OTC 1022 puller in your description did not work for me to pull the flange off as the width was not enough to stay clamped when using the tool, so I rented one from NAPA which worked perfectly. Other than that, everything went great due to this perfectly exampled video.

[@Punisher-1]

Cool, I need to do this to my 2000 Ranger this weekend. Thanks buddy for your video.

[@tkt-eagle8482]

I just replaced pinion seal on my 1994 f150. Your video helped out alot!! Thanks!

[@johnstaif846]

Thanks for an informative video. It looks like you had no issues with the flange/differential turning while you remove/install the pinion bolt but were able to use hand force to hold it still.

[@roscopeeco1]

I don't follow many people, but you are awesome

[@Pelonius]

Thanks for this video... made this job so much easier by having the right tools ahead of time.

[@robinsondiy9781]

This video was huge in helping me change my opinion seal out. Thank you!

[@wadeheying7117]

My opinion seal is broken. My opinion keeps spilling out all over the place.

[@michaelpoganik7266]

That's one of those gray area items. Another great video. Thanks keep them coming. Explorer videos always appreciated.

[@alexzipp585]

I enjoyed your video. Sad to say it was on mute. But did you say why you did not use a torq wrench on the pinion nut? My dodge has a spec on it with the dana 80. Thanks

[@FordTechMakuloco]

There is no spec for pinion nut torque on the Fords they use pinion bearing preload as a spec instead.

[@marcosmello5454]

This video is very instructive, however I want to ask about the shat. The shaft removed was rusted however, the shaft assembled back looks new one, it has been replaced? what should be the reason? Unbalance situation which causes vibration? Thanks.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

The old shaft needed two U-joints which on an 04 are staked and not serviceable. For does have a service kit but it us pushing $200 per joint for parts alone plus the extra labor it would be $500 easy. A completely new Ford driveshaft my cost was $450 and there would be no labor, it would be all new perfectly balanced and the new driveshaft has normal serviceable u-joints. It just made sense to replace it.

[@marcosmello5454]

@@FordTechMakuloco Now is clear, thank you for reply and send clarification. I totally agree what you have done, because new Ford OEM balanced shaft is always better. Please, continue making videos like that, it helps users a lot. May I suggest another topic? For instance, fixing the coupling vacuum seal from no engaging 4x4, even troubleshooting the whole vacuum system, together with inner oil seal replacement, considering the brand is DANA, there are many tricks and caution to be observed, even by using the right special tools. I will appreciate if you post a video like I suggested. Thank you a lot, and congratulation for your effort by recording and sharing your job; 🙂

[@jgray9666]

Great Video! Very thorough. If changing the outer bearing can the existing race be reused? If not, how can the race be removed and replaced without further disassembling the differential?

[@n310ea]

I have a question. If my 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis calls for 80w-90 in the rear end as per the owner's manual, should I put 80w-90 in it, or should I switch to 75w-90?

[@ToAstYNaChO]

+n310ea why would you switch? the manual literally says exactly what to use.

[@sameoldeh]

@n310ea 80w-90 vs 75w-90...they're basically the same. Should not matter at all.

[@norbertrivera]

17:04 -How is that you easily remove the wheel bearing from the pinion?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You can use a hook pick and pull it out for inspection only.

[@norbertrivera]

@@FordTechMakuloco i thought the wheel bearing will enter to the pinion shaft with torque pressure.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

no

[@jagvette1]

Although you marked the rear flange wouldn't removing the Drive shaft from the transfer box 'possibly' cause the drive to be out of balance ?

[@isaacodegard740]

Great Video. This helped me a lot. I did it with a 12mm wrench. Made my own seal set tool out of exhaust pipe and a welder.

[@brianblithe2271]

Hey Chief, with six point being the most solid contact socket, why do you think Ford started using the 12 points on the driveshafts ???

[@FordTechMakuloco]

It more compact for sure and never a problem.

[@RobertKohut]

You mentioned several times about checking the backlash. The pinion nut only provides for pinion bearing preload. Adding or subtracting pinion shaft shims adjusts the backlash. I get you perhaps meant feel for pinion shaft end play and verify the free play is taken up. Perhaps you could have mentioned when you mark and count threads you are hoping to re-establish the proper bearing preload and perhaps checking it with an inch pound torque wrench. Perhaps in this case since a rebuild is required sometime in the near future you were not too concerned. great video as usual!! Thanks!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Robert Kohut grabbing the pinion flange and getting a feel for the backlash is an old trick to see how seated the pinion bearings are. As you tighten up the nut the bearings seat and the slop is taken up and of course you can also "feel" for or get a sense of the bearing preload all at the same time. I mention several times the point of counting the threads and all these checks is to "reestablish the same preload in the end as we have now" I mention it at the very end after filling it also. Checking preload properly would require tires and brake discs to be removed at the very least and the axle shafts and carrier to be removed to test for the spec pinion preload. I only do this when new bearing and a collapsible spacer is being installed otherwise this is the tried and true method used by techs everywhere.

[@xJackHunter]

Great tutorial. This ought to help tremendously when I go to change the pinion seal on my Sterling 10.25.

[@wordsofhis1799]

Drive shaft U-joint worn out (@2:55) and he gets a new drive shaft? Curious.