Powder Handling and The RCBS Uni-Flow

[@markking5711]

You are The Man! You set up Your Uni -flow The way I did when I started Reloading In 1980! I Enjoy Your Videos! Thank You!

[@carlyoung6808]

Excellent presentation. You are very correct, technique is a major key factor. Have several like yours, one for each caliber that I shoot. Pistol I simply do a direct charge into the case, rifles I set a few grains short and trickle to final charge. My first one was given to me in the early 70s, it has a stick on label - Made by R.C.B.S. Gun and Die Shop. Printed material that came with it indicates that it cost $19.95 complete and price subject to change October 1955.

[@commonsensehomestead]

This is the exact powder measure I have. It is a hand me down from my uncle. I emailed the company and they sent my a new hopper because this one was missing. It is really encouraging that you have used it for 40 years. I am still trying to get the hang of it.

[@walnutrd]

Hi FortuneCookie, Thanks for this video. I just purchased a uniflow and decided to orient my lever like yours. I agree--it feels more intuitive for the powder to drop in the case during the downstroke. I appreciate your insight. Have a nice day.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

walnutrd- My own Uniflow has been doing its thing constantly for over 40 years. After loading hundreds of thousands of rounds, it's still going strong and for my single stage reloading, I've never seen the need to go to anything else - even though I've often thought it might be fun to try a different measure...Thanks for your comment...

[@SL1CK1307]

Thanx for this video. I'm having issues with the extruded "stick" powders you've given me a good tip. Thanx!

[@travisrains3659]

Been using the uni flow for years . 15 to be exact . Nice video

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

commonsensehomestead-It really is a fine measure. The Redding has superior fit and finish, but you pay over double for it. And it won't last any longer. If you start with ball or flake powders, you will become a Uni-Flow expert in no time. And with the stick powders - well, we all have trouble with that with any kind of powder measure. With the stick powders, we need to tweak our charges on a scale for best results...Good to hear from you...

[@dalemeade1]

I liked your "you tubers out there" greeting. I kinda miss it in your newer videos.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

dale meade - Nice coffee!! Several viewers objected to being called KZbinrs so I got in the habit of being more precise with the "Shooters and reloaders out there...." Have a great day, FC

[@Gunners_Mate_Guns]

I LOVE my dispenser, and I economize on loading time by having it dispense a powder charge while I seat the bullet on the previously charged case. Not long at all after I get the bullet fully seated, the next case is ready to charge, then I repeat the process. It's especially useful for rifle cartridges with extruded powders, since that powder type dispenses much more rapidly than the flake or ball powders. I've been using my PACT unit for just shy of ten years straight now. USA made, too!

[@Gunners_Mate_Guns]

It's worth it, for sure. I've seen the RCBS version called the Chargemaster on sale at times for about $260, which I believe is a bit less than I gave for my PACT when I originally bought it. Natchez currently has the RCBS unit on sale for $290. Graf has the Hornady version now for $225. MidwayUSA has the PACT for $250, but currently out of stock till at least June. The real bargain is the Smart Reloader, going for $165 at Natchez, which I used before selling it to a friend while still new.

[@MrPir84free]

Duh. I've been working on getting that last bit of accuracy out of the unit. Measuring cylinder on the back solves the rest. Add in a homemade baffle- and you get some real good accuracy. Cylinder remains empty till you need a charge; the baffle keeps the amount of weight on the column of powder consistent. Thanks. In case you're wondering, I'm using a cut-off measuring spoon as a baffle on one of the smaller uniflows.. PS. guess that means I need to think about this EACH and every time I dismantle the powder measure for cleaning. Oh well..

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Mad Dawg - Good thinking on making this measure more accurate - The more expensive competition Uniflow has the baffle, but if you make one yourself - all the better. Happy Holidays and Good shootin' to ya

[@floridafyme]

RCBS is excellent equipment. Do you remember a great gun writer named Dean Grennell?

[@kbjerke]

Good point, about "technique" when using a powder measure! I have the same RCBS measure (yeah, for at least 40 years!) and it has always performed well. As long as *I* do my part!

[@jojo123469]

Hello FortuneCookie45LC.. I have watched dozens and dozens of your videos. One day I realized that i did not know what you looked like. Many of your videos on reloading rarely do you show your face. So I went on your channel and finally saw some of your videos where I could see you. Any way I was glad to put a face to your videos, and it was nice to see you. Keep up with the great videos and I'll be watching......Cheers...Canada.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

lastchapter - Thanks for your kind remarks...one of my thoughts before doing videos was that it was the content that was primary. Also I wanted to maintain a semblance of anonymity as my state is adverse to shooting and all pertaining. But only after I realized that they all know who we are anyway - might as well just get in the videos a little and let the viewers respond. This is all very helpful...Best to ya, FC Steve

[@wcdjmase]

As I am new to metallic reloading, I have rechecked the charge on many occasions because I was unsure if it threw the correct charge. It is usually spot on, unless I had a log jam going on inside the hopper. LOL

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Adam Kushner - That log jam happening you refer to is commonly called powder bridging and is NASTY. To keep that from happening (with stick type powders), I knock on the powder measure after I dispense a charge… Thanks for the good comment...

[@MrTackleberry79]

Sound advice from FC45. I used to use 7828 for my .300WM and when it learned that Dow made a 7828ssc , I decided to change and as a side benefit I no longer was crushing powder in the case when seating the bullet for my shallow throat depth. 82.1gr takes a lot of space in the case.

[@vengenaceearly255]

I have an RCBS competition powder measure for handguns. I use a Hornaday electronic scale to check my grain weight. The cost for the RCBS Comp powder measure for handguns was only $113. I priced out others like the Hornaday, but they wanted to nickel and dime you for every little part to set it up. They really didn't offer a complete kit, and I know why, it was way more expensive. Maybe the parts for the RCBS comp Rife will be different. The top section of my measure is a little different.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

don stromberg-Thanks for the great question. And RCBS has lots of fans, myself included. I have read a lot of Dean Grennell's writings. He was big in all the shooting sports and reloading. Some of his contemporaries that I also remember are guys like John LaChuk (hope I spelled his name right), Skeeter Skelton, Bart Skelton, Elmer Keith, Charles Askins, Bill Jordan, and even Jack O'Conner (270 Win), you couldn't pick up a gun magazine without seeing his name somewhere. Best Regards...

[@vengenaceearly255]

There is a little top room in the powder measure funnel bottom, where the roller meets, my guess is that this is to accomodate extruded powders and NOT cut them off. This my be a feature only on Competition powder measures, I don't know. But you only have to buy the "guts" for the quick change out to Rifle. I hope this make sense. I love my RCBS powder measrue btw.

[@gascheck8151]

Stick powders should be individually measured if your powder binds or bridges in the measure. Your blood pressure will appreciate it. All powder measures will bind with large stick powders regardless of cost.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

PinkOld-Wow - you are a great ambassador for the automated dispensers. I'm about to reach for my wallet and my phone, but now I've got to decide which one to get - leaning towards the RCBS because of their rebate policy...Thanks for the fine info...I think?...No,I know!!....

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

dryfirefive pointfivesix-Thanks for the very important information - when something fine is well made and well cared for - just lasts and lasts…Great Comment!!

[@Mark-pp2ty]

So fortune. Would one be better off to have the chargemaster lite. Thank you for the video

[@TheYjmfan]

Hi I have one of these I just noticed on the drop tube you have fitted is that the hornady metal drop tube ? Same thread? Thanks.

[@yojimbo05]

So you still have to weight and measure the powder but being quick and precise keeps the stick powder from breaking correct.

[@OmarGravity]

Thanks. I thought my loader was defective and was worried friction from the powder grain cutting would ignite the powder. :)

[@totherepublic358]

Quick question, how do you deal with powder bouncing out of the pan when pdispensing to the pan to occasionally check charges? I always dispense into the cartridge and then dump it in the pan, double and triple checking I didn't leave any in the cartridge, but that seems a little unwise to me, and now I got an old turret press I would like to use, so I would like to load through the lee die with a funnel, leaving the cartridge in the holder. I am sure there is a simple solution that everybody has thought of but me!

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

totherepublic358 - The way we all used to do it would be to put the pan sealing under the spout of the measure and dump the charge, then release the pan to allow the powder to flow gently into the pan. A couple of taps to the powder measure to insure all the powder in the measure spout goes into the pan...Using a case and dumping from the case to pan can have some problems with ball powders being caught in the flash hole or even the primer requiring lots of tapping and flicking of the case as guard against that. Best to ya, FC Steve

[@totherepublic358]

FortuneCookie45LC thanks for the reply. I thought it might be unwise to do it the way I was. I also have done it it the way you described but that scared me because I figured I shouldn't stop the powder in the spout due to static sticking. I know it is a kind of stupid question but I really was curious how more experienced guys do it. I will do as yoy suggest, thank you. BTW, I have learned an enormous amount from you, Johnny's Reloading Bench and Elis Ammo. Thanks to all of you for the knowledge. I just cast a bunch of blackout bullets in 230 and 200 grain with good results and will be powder coating them this weekend. I never could have done it (well, I would have messed up a whole lot first, anyway) without you guys. What you do is appreciated.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

totherepublic358 - And feel free to ask any of us questions as along with Loads of Bacon and Full Lead Taco, we are all kind of an unofficial reloading, casting and shooting community on KZbin (with reloading soon to be elsewhere). Best to ya, FC Steve

[@Gunners_Mate_Guns]

I use my Uniflow for all my spherical and most flake type powders, such as W296, 800-X, Blue Dot, Unique, AA7, AA9, and W760. I solved the problem with extruded (stick type) powders years ago by buying a PACT automatic powder dispenser/scale combo for IMR4831, IMR4350, IMR4895, and H4831. The dispenser is basically an automated trickler, so it never sheers the powder.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

PinkOld-Thanks so much for posting such useful information. I have used all those powders and like 'em all. Those automated powder machines are really great, but not all shooters want to spend the money there. But after your endorsement, perhaps...??

[@reddogleader1968]

Thanks this was a helpful video.

[@kevinokeefe7796]

When you first get these they have to be cleaned Can simple soap,and water be used or it there some other cleaner that has to be used Thanks for the vids I'm a brand new reloader and you vids have helped

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Kevin OKeefe - Welcome to the wonderful world of reloading..!! No need to tell you the advantages, but let me add that it will invigorate and enable your shooting interests and provide you with inexhaustible challenge and satisfaction. Our reloading companies do not ship powder measures out with lots of grease in them (not like old Mosin Nagants) - perhaps some light preservative oil only. Degreasing with mineral spirits and Q-tips into the areas where powder comes in contact should be adequate. In the case of machined metallic parts like the RCBS Uniflow and Hornady Powder Measure, disassembly and degreasing are good policy. With the new Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure - very little degreasing is required as the zinc alloy and nylon parts require no preservative oil from the factory. No disassembly is desired. If you see no grease, run a little bit of powder and if you see no clumping, you are good to go. I did no degreasing with my three LADPMs to complete satisfaction. Please post questions anytime as you progress in your reloading career...If you don't have the Lyman 50th or Lee Reloading Manuals, they are excellent sources of reloading data... Best to ya, FC

[@dongayanamarasinghe4559]

Good information as always! What is the technique do you use when changing powder type (Using the same powder measure)? I am asking because powder gets stick on to the plastic cylinder walls/bottom of the main unit and its hard to clean completely (I haven't taken the plastic cylinder off the main unit).

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Don Gayan Amarasinghe -- With the Uniflow, the hopper is emptied, and a narrow paint brush is used to sweep the inside of the hopper and bottom of the powder reservoir. Then the measure is activated repeatedly until no more grains of the previous powder are dropped. Then a few more throws are made for assurance of same. If necessary, a light wiping of the inside of the measure with an anti-static cloth (for drying clothes). There should be no powder granules on the cloth...then reload with the new powder and let fly...With the Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure, it's even simpler...Just cut off the powder flow and remove the hopper and dump the powder back into the proper can. Clean out the inside of the measure (easy access). Change the drum. put it all back together and reload with new powder - takes all of 3 minutes... Best Regards, FC

[@dongayanamarasinghe4559]

Thanks.

[@dannysigns5766]

Nice info FC45LC, At about 2:30 seconds into this video you showed the casting without the green tube inserted. ?? How did you remove the tube?. I need to remove mine and clean it. Tried brute force and it wont budge. Hummm...

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Danny Signs - My Uni-Flow is over 40 years old...the powder tube is just friction fitted into the powder measure. Today's Uni-Flows are the same design, but I do know that other companies use little screws to retain them...if so that can readily be seen. Thanks for your comment, FC Steve

[@SavageVoyageur]

I like making my charges just under my target weight. Then add with my trickler.

[@RickfromLafayette]

What you are talking about are extruded grain powders. Having said that, an excellent video.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+RickfromLafayette -- OK, extruded grain powders it is.... Happy Holidays to you, FC

[@campbell2054]

Can you add the micrometer adjustable plunger that they make for the competition powder measure to the standard powder measure and would it be worth the effort to do so? Do you use the little dandy powder measure and what are your thoughts about that measure. Thank you for all your great videos as they have been very helpful.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+campbell2054 - The Little Dandy measure is an interesting concept - bring the measure to the cases - but my concerns about that are that it might not have the accuracy of the Uniflow, nor the capacity of throw - only good for smaller charges of powder. I've never even given a thought about owning one. As for the competition powder measure micrometer - I cannot answer on whether it can be added to the Uniflow or not. From my experience with the Uniflow, to get better accuracy and performance, I'd just move up to the Redding measure instead of trying to convert my Uniflow to the comp model. Have a great day...FC

[@SomeGuyInSandy]

Good tips! I'm waiting for delivery of a pistol rotor for the Hornady powder measure I purchased. In the mean time, should I assume that the same binding issue applies to disk or flake powder?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

SomeGuyInSandy - Funny thing about powders, some meter very well, others not so well. The ball powders meter best, and the stick powders worst....but few generalizations can be made. The flake powders like Unique and Bullseye meter very well in my experience. Have a great day...

[@michaelfrederick7546]

Good video thanks

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Michael Frederick - appreciate you taking the time to post the good word...Have a great day...

[@dryfirefivepointfivesix3047]

had my for 50 years, bought it for 9 bucks back then, made of stainless steel..!!! everything plastic now days.

[@jmcclure55]

I'm not a "KZbinr."