Fractal Design Focus G Mini (mATX) Water-cooled Build

[@markmorozov2179]

you made huge work on this video, unconditional like

[@AVTechy]

Thanks very much, really appreciate the support. Hope you enjoy many videos to come!

[@Kalmte55]

Good voiceover. And well shown by camerawork.

[@tusing7780]

Excellent video as always! General thoughts: - Your macro shots were excellent, even better than last time. - Loved the shots where you were screwing in things. It's really quite satisfying. - Music was great this time around! - You did an excellent job at showing the "minor" steps (screwing things in, etc) - this really helps the viewer remember and digest what you are doing, and can be invaluable for beginners feeling completely lost - I found one of your tips mind-blowing: I never thought to use smaller screws on the radiators to hold them in place. - Your exposition on the watercooling stuff was really good and quite helpful. I took home a bunch of tips that I'll be sure to use when I begin my own build (just waiting on the mobo to arrive). - Loved the narration. I'd rather you spend time on narration and release highly polished vids such as this than the other way around. Finally, any plans to do hardline builds in small cases?

[@AVTechy]

Wow that's a lot of feedback, thank you so much! I will implement all of that into the next build, hopefully it all works out well. I have got great ambitions to do hardline builds in the future, at the moment soft tubing is a more cost effective for me to watercool so I will stick with it until I find a reasonable way to better fund hardline builds. I definitelty want to stick to small cases too, I think they are way more challenging and more appropriate for most peoples needs. Anyway, sorry for the short reply this time, I'm on the edge of my lunch hour and I wanted to make sure I replied to you in good time. Thank you so much for the feedback and constant support, this channel will continue to create better and better content with you around!

[@AVTechy]

Hey, just thought I'd let you know there won't be another video on the channel for the next 4-5 days. I have got the next video pretty much fully edited but I've contracted some illness going around that's effecting my throat which means I won't be able to finish it off for at least a few days. Sorry for the delay of the video, I'll get it uploaded ASAP. BTW if you want to keep up to date with all the upcoming content and generally keep in touch with the channel check out the Facebook and Twitter page that I'm going to do my best to keep up to date with all sorts of channel and video info: Facebook: facebook.com/AVTechy/ Twitter: twitter.com/AVGTR

[@tusing7780]

Hey, no worries about the delay! I know very few channels that religiously put videos like clockwork. Get some rest - I hope you feel better!

[@awakeningcry]

Hiya, I'm considering this case for my next build which will include some water cooling. One query though, weren't the front fans originally for air INTAKE? at 8:10 you've placed them back the same way, but isn't the point of radiator fans to expell the warm air?

[@stevenacton359]

WOW dude slow down a touch us oldie can't keep up had to run at .75% to hear what you saying- V informative tho

[@AVTechy]

Sorry about the narrative speed. This is quite an old video so there are a lot of issues that it retains that have been somewhat solved in more recent videos. If you're looking for more reviews of cases that I've happened to cover, or just have the time to check another video out, I'd like to know what you think of the more recent reviews. Anyway, regardless of that, thanks for checking out this one, and I'm glad you found it useful.

[@rationalraven8956]

Wow that's pretty intense, a lot to fit into such a small case

[@AVTechy]

It was a bit of a squeeze, I think it's definitely worth trying to fill the entire case with water-cooling equipment. Like the reservoir for example, I think the larger ones look far better than the smaller ones and gives more of an impact to the build as a whole. It's definitely a challenge to fit it all together, and I think the risks of leaks are higher when the tolerances are much tighter. But if you can get decent access to all the fittings when tightening them it shouldn't generally be a problem. Thanks for checking out the video, and especially for commenting!

[@TinkerAxiom]

Could you optionally mount the reservoir near the front of the case if you removed the internal drive bay?

[@AVTechy]

Interesting thought. At the top of the front it would problematic with GPU, unless you had a half size GPU and potentially a slightly smaller reservoir. And at the bottom you may need to downsize the reservoir due to the PSU, but it may work with a 160mm PSU unlike the 180mm PSU in this video. I think there is potential in both circumstances for it to work. However I can see complication with the tubing runs, trying to get a run down to the pump with a full size GPU and back up to the radiator could be a nightmare to install. Not impossible but a little challenging. Is this something you're looking into doing, or was it simply a question of curiosity?

[@TinkerAxiom]

Potentially. I've got a graphics card, reservoir and pump combo on the way, and I'm looking to buy the standard version of this case which is a little taller. BTW, I'm new to the water cooling sense so I'm busy gathering information before I dive straight in.

[@AVTechy]

Nice, if the ATX case is anything like this mATX case (and it will be), it should be a nice hassle free build. Let me know if you have any questions about water-cool builds and I'll answer them as thoroughly as I can. As a super simple first tip, I would definitely go for a soft tubing loop to start with. If there are any issues like the system not posting, they are much easier to work around. You can design any soft tubing loop to make the RAM accessible and the CPU block and GPU dis-mountable and re-mountable. Anyway I could go on, so give me a heads up if you have any questions. And of course best of luck with your build!

[@danielzhan86]

AV Techy what mATX case should I get for a hardline loop? This will be my first loop so soft tubing is an option too if hardline is too difficult to install. I would prefer it to have support for a 180mm psu but I can buy a new one if that is needed. BTW, I have the B2 750

[@AVTechy]

That's quite a broad question, and is open to many answers. To start I would definitely recommend soft tubing since it will give you a good practical knowledge of how a water-cooling loop interacts with all the components, while giving you the tolerance and flexibility to build and potentially diagnose with ease if you come across any issues. There are a few things I would recommend when looking for a hardline case. First is the ability to be able to install 2x 240mm radiators, it will just allow for more room for growth in the future and allows for more options like overclocking and silent systems builds. I'd also recommend having a solid plan for your reservoir and pump position, you can see in a few cases I've built in where the reservoir has come close to being too awkward to get in. And make sure the case your going to get has a good cable management solution, it would be horrible to plan a really nice loop and have a really awkward build because there wasn't anywhere to put the excess cables, which could also ruin the look of the build. You don't need to worry about airflow so much with a water-cool build since water cooling anything will get you good results. But I wouldn't recommend a cube case that will have water-cooling components in separate compartments for a first build since they are generally pretty awkward to work between compartments. Not impossible, just not easy. I could definitely recommend the Focus G Mini for a hardline build since it has so much room to work in, but if your looking for a more premium case then the Define Mini C Tempered Glass Edition would also be a strong contender. Those would definitely be my top picks for water-cooling cases from all the cases I've tried so far, they are just so open and easy to build in, and the windows are nice and big to be able to admire the finished system. Let me know if you have any other questions about this case, or about water-cooling in general. I'm more than happy to help out. And of course thanks for checking out the video, I really appreciate the support!

[@Goldencoins]

Why can you only fit a 30mm thick radiator at the front? It looked like you had quite a bit more clearance in the video.

[@maxmmv]

Is it possible to turn off the case fan LED? I couldn't find any instruction in the manual. Thanks!

[@AVTechy]

Unfortunately not, the LED lights are more than likely wired into the 12v and ground pins directly. Since they are 3 pin fans they don't get as much control and functionality as a lot of other LED fans.

[@johnnynogood2690]

Absolutely stupid question, but what are those RGB LEDs that seem to be around the window of the case?

[@calebkorthals6427]

Do the fans have an led cable or is it just one cable that plugs into a fan header?

[@RickDeckardCain]

One of the main features of the Focus G Mini is that it has an external 5.25" drive bay. If you wanted a Fractal Design mATX mini tower without one, check out the Meshify C Mini or Define Mini C

[@OuchMyHooves]

i just know that ram change to 16gb when it became pretty much mandatory was a pain in the ass

[@ppn7]

I have another question. Is the flow rate of the pump matter ? I mean what is the minimum for 2 240mm rads and GPU/CPU loop? The greatest pumps are I think 1000L/H at 12v? So at 5v maybe 500L/H? Is that increase/ decrease the temps? Thank you

[@AVTechy]

Okay, nice question. First thing's first, the main figure about the pump you would want to be concerned about with a pump for water cooling is head pressure, not necessarily flow rate - there is generally little cooling difference between a pump running slowly to a pump running at full speed. So now we know the concern is head pressure. Should you be concerned? For the setup you have described you don't need to be concerned in the slightest about your pumps performance. Get any D5 pump (the most popular around today) and you will have more than enough head pressure for a setup as large as say 2 GPUs, 1 CPU, and a couple of large 280mm radiators. If you were to push for an extreme water-cooling build like say 3 GPUs, 1 CPU, and a couple of Quad radiators you may want to upgrade to a couple of pumps - but even still I think you could use one pump for all of that. And on the subject of voltage and power. There is the other side to the coin of power, and that's amperage. You can have a low amperage high voltage motor be just as powerful as high amperage low voltage motor. So you would need to know the amperage as well as the voltage, or just the power to understand the true performance of a motor. And then you would need to know the style of the impeller to understand the performance of the pump - but obviously it's a lot easier to read a data sheet. Anyway the main thing to take from this is if you go for the ever popular D5 pump (I can personally recommend the EKWBs variety of the D5 pump), you will be absolutely fine for your current setup idea, and even room loads of expansion in the future!

[@DoomWalker42]

I have this case and was thinking of water cooling. I have an idea about modding the case so that the reservoir can get fastened on the top of the hard drive cage. Then it would save a lot of space and make the installation easier. Is it possible to water cool the GTX 1060 3gb Zotac? Is it worth it even? Thinking of just getting a normal AIO radiator for my CPU and leaving my GPU air cooled. Currently have a low profile Noctua cooler and it runs nice and quiet. If you use a dremel and don't need a CD Drive you could even remove the CD Drive Bay since it is basically useless. With some drilling into the back panel you could even install holes to mount the pump and/or reservoir. Just some thought.

[@AVTechy]

I like the idea, modding opens up a huge amount of options especially when certain part of the case like the ODD area is useless to many people. As for whether it's worth watercooling a GTX 1060-3GB, I can't say it is. The cost of all the gear to watercooling that card will dwarf the cost for the card itself. And you could spend that money buying an upgrade to the 1060-3GB. However, watercooling is fun to get into even though it's stressful at times, and a lot of work. It's ultimately up to you, but personally I wouldn't as it's not going to add much performance to the card. I also had a quick look around for some full cover water blocks for a 1060-3GB and only found partial cover water blocks which don't look all that good. Let me know what you think you're going to do, and I'll see if I can help you find some good stuff if you want to go for the watercooling option. Just strongly consider how much it costs and if you could spend that money on something that'll be more functional. There's probably a couple of nice upgrades you could do for the price of watercooling.

[@DoomWalker42]

You brought up a good point that I didn't think of! I will wait with water cooling until I get a more powerful system. I heard a rumor that Nvidia and AMD are launching more powerful graphics cards in the future this year allegedly in the summer though that would seem like wishful thinking. If not I will save up for a 1070Ti or something like that. I will wait and see I guess for hardware to become more affordable and maybe get a better case in the future. I really want the Fractal Design R6. That case is amazing!

[@CosmicCleric]

Very good video, very informative. One slight criticism. I would have liked it more if you had spent more time on the thermals results. You show one results with the fans on low. Would have liked to seen medium fans and high fans results, as well as the results showing how much sound/db was produced at each fans level. Finally, I have an ODD that if like to use if possible. Can the top drive bay still be used for the ODD with your cooling setup design? Thanks for your hard work, was a really good video to watch and learn from.

[@ppn7]

Hi ! I have another question. Your top fans are really close to the RAMs ! I have the Focus G (not mini) and still not receive my radiators, but i have corsair vengeance RAM, heatspread are too big i think, i hope with low profil it will work ? i'm affraid of not being able to put radadiator + fans on the top , my motherboard is asrock p67 pro3. Thank you for advice

[@AVTechy]

If the Focus G is setup like the Focus G Mini (which look to be the case) You will likely have a RAM clearance issue. Since I was unable to remove the RAM without removing a radiator you may find that you have a clash as well. Unfortunately the price of RAM is very high at the moment, but if you can get some "standard" size RAM you should be fine like I was. I'd love to say you wouldn't need to spend any more money but I don't think that will be the situation, best of luck with the build. And thanks again for tuning in!

[@ppn7]

AV Thank you ! Never mind. Currently I have 2x4gb ddr3 and I wanted to upgrade to 2x8gb. I will sell my current ram and take something like "standard ram" or low profil like yours or like hyperx fury! I hope it will do the job! :)

[@AVTechy]

That makes sense, I think new standard size RAM will do the job no problem. They HyperX Fury RAM is a great looking set of RAM, I hope the new set serve you well. All the best for the build, and thanks again for tuning in!

[@IFreakedHer]

i wouldnt advise pulling tubing apart like that, you risk the fittings leaking because the tubing wont have proper contact/suction. Atleast with compression fittings.

[@AVTechy]

+zach hartley I'm assuming you mean the part with the pliers. If so, you need to see how the collar of the fittings digs into the tubing after tightening. Stretching with piers causes no extra risk unless you dig into the tubing. With thinner tubing I wouldn't go as hard on it, but using a 10/16 mm tubing is as thick as common tubing gets, and it takes a lot to permanently stretch it into a plastic state. I'm assuming you've had a leak after doing this? What tubing were you using and what type of pliers were you using? It would be useful to know as advice for others as I've never personally come across this issue. Mind that I would have to do it myself to advise others, so maybe it will be something I'd look into.

[@ppn7]

Hi thank you so much ! Nice video ! I'm planning to order the Focus G (Atx model) and i was scared about putting a top radiator and not be able to fit the top fans! I hope i will be able to put a rear fan too. What is the maximum radiator and fans thickness i can put on the top ? 30mm radiator and 30mm fans could be possible ? And your Hub fan is so cool, you can supply all the fan with the PSU and this hub, and still use 1 pwm on the mother for all the fans?

[@AVTechy]

Thank you very much, for the Focus G ATX case you could put a 240mm radiator in the front and one in the top if you were going for maximum cooling. I would recommend 30mm radiators, generally unless cases are specifically designed for great water-cooling / or are pretty large cases they don't really make enough room for thicker them 30mm radiators. And with 30mm thick radiators you will pretty much be guaranteed to be able to transfer it to the next case you have as most cases support 30mm radiators, and not many support thicker ones. So you'll have no problems with a 240mm x 30mm thick radiator in the top with fans. And like I said, the front is also an option for extra cooling in the future. The fan hub I simply took from the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX cases I had done builds in previously. It simply takes the PWM signal from the CPU and spreads it to all the fans connected to the hub. It uses the first fans (connected tot he white header) as the control fan which regulates the PWM signal for the other fans connected. A fan hub is really useful when you only got one PWM fan header like on my motherboard. The other fan headers ar 4-pin DC headers which are generally pretty useless to people who are interested in delving further into custom PCs. To be honest even if I have more PWM headers on the motherboard I would still use a fan hub for the following reasons: - It prevents you from plugging all of your fans directly into the motherboard where they will be on show, not a good look. With a fan hub you can send all your cables to the back of the motherboard tray (where they belong). - On top of the last point, it's much easier to cable manage when all of the connectors go to the same place rather than spreading them out to play a game of where is the closest viable PWM fan header. - And possibly the best point. You only need to set 1 PWM fan curve in the UEFI BIOS (for in some cases up to 8 fans!) which is much better then setting individual ones for all of the fans you are connecting. And generally, who is going to set different fan curves for all the different fans - MADNESS! If you were looking to get a fan hub yourself I would recommend checking out the Silverstone Fan Hub: silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=526&area=en It has 8 x 4-pin fan headers that will pork with 4-pin and 3-pin fans for all your fan control needs. It is pretty much as good as it gets for a fan hub right now. I will end up getting one in the future as the one I'm transferring from case to case right now hasn't got a shell/case to protect it so is more likely to get damaged. Anyway there I go again rambling on, I do this for everyone who asks the smallest of questions. I hope that cleared up any queries you has about the radiators and fan hubs. Let me know if you want to talk over anything else. And of course, thanks for watching!

[@ppn7]

Thank you for all your explain! I gonna put 240mmx30mm on the top, and 240x30mm on the front, mais maybe if i can, in the front, i gonna put push and pull fan, i gonna remove the HDD cage maybe, and find a way to put the HDD on the 5.25 optical bay The case look very nice, i would prefer the focus g mini but i already have an ATX mother board, so... :D

[@AVTechy]

+Confeter Confeter No problem, Sounds like an awesome build, I always like this look of a push pull fan configuration. On the not of the HDD in the optical drive mounting enclosure. I would recommend checking these out if you haven't already; www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Universal-Mounting-Bracket-Adapter/dp/B0001UZQWG They cost virtually nothing and should work well. You'll likely be able to find black ones too, if not you could always spray paint them yourself. Anyway let me know if you have any more questions, and good luck with your build!

[@ppn7]

thank you again ! I saw that you put the front fans on "intake" position, instead of "exhaust, so you will put hot air in the case, isn't better to put them exhaust?

[@AVTechy]

+Confeter Confeter No problem at all. To answer the fan issue there are several reasons why you need to have intakes as well as exhausts. So for context the front fans were intakes and the top fans were exhaust. So number one reason is that you need to have as much air going into the case as much as it is leaving the case (ideally). If you were to have all the fans blowing out of the case you would create a highly negative pressure environment inside the case. This can cause unnecessary stress on the fans, it's like trying to suck the air out of a bottle, its easier when you pierce a hole in the bottom of it. So having as many fans blowing in as blowing out creates a neutral pressure environment which has high airflow blowing over the motherboards components cooling them down. Number 2 reason is when you create a negative pressure environment (more exhausts than intakes) dust is more likely to settle on surfaces. This is due to a lack of turbulent air that would keep the dust from settling. The goal is to have positive pressure (more intakes than exhausts) which causes turbulent airflow and prevents dust from settling. So essentially you need to make sure you have good air flow in the case for cooling the motherboards components, and the hard drives as well as getting air to the CPU cooler and GPU in an air cooled system. Realistically having as many fans blowing in as out is ideal for the components and the fans, but having one more intake will prevent dust from settling due to the extra turbulence. I can see where your logic is for not blowing warm air into the case, but just remember that air has a certain thermal capacity, and blowing it though a 30mm radiator is not enough to max out the thermal capacity of the air. As long as the air blowing through the case is cooler than the components it is intended to cool (which is normally the case, even at full load) then it will always be cooling the components. It's an easy mistake to make, but it's also a fantastic question to ask and know the answers to. As long as your aware that your Motherboard is pretty much the "heart" of your system and needs to be cooled just as much as the rest of the components (hence why motherboard water blocks are a thing now) then you'll be just fine. Let me know if there are things that I said that need clarification, air flow is quite a big subject and I may not have been as descriptive as I needed to be, always need to keep an eye on the word count haha. Anyway ask away if you have any more queries!

[@megapet777]

I was wondering if ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 would fit on the top of this case? (It's thicker than normal 240mm AIO)

[@dal6917]

I'm actually wondering that, did you get a reponse about it ? ahah Maybe on the put the watercooling fans on the front instead of the included fans ?

[@megapet777]

@@dal6917 Nope. Im just using air cooler

[@KrashKan]

I'm thinking of doing a build with a Ryzen 7 1700x in this case, I hate the look of tower coolers so would a Cooler Master MasterLiquid 240 work well for it? It was like one of the cheapest 240mm liquid coolers.

[@AVTechy]

That would be absolutely fine, you're going to get similar performance between most AIOs of a comparable size and fin density (the higher the fin density, or fins per inch, the better the cooling performance will be, but it will be slightly louder). That will work very well with a 1700, nice choice! Let me know if you have any more questions, and best of luck with the build!

[@KrashKan]

AV Techy lel the 1800x is now less than the normal price of a 1700x with black friday sales

[@AVTechy]

Wow, that's an upgrade! Maybe it's time I get myself an m.2 in a Black Friday sale to help out with the editing workflow. Have you got your eyes on an 1800x now? or do you think you're going to go for a 1700x on sale and save a bit on the overall system price?

[@KrashKan]

I actually just purchased the 1800x :)

[@KrashKan]

And Im going to use 3200mhz ram so I have to get an x370 so instead of this case I'm getting the mid tower version

[@lenovop9030]

do you think its possible to fit an atx mobo inside with an sfx psu thanks

[@TheTomtah]

Hey what happened to the air cooled build in this case? Can't find it on your channel :(

[@AVTechy]

Hey, yeah that video was made unlisted as it was the last video where I didn't script or narrate correctly. This was the first video where I properly wrote a script and edited it into the video with moderately correct timing. However since you've asked about it, I haven't got a problem with providing the link (just as long as you're prepared for a pretty bad experience :P): kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGHRaYCOoLqmbNU

[@anthonysmith9414]

Was anything overclocked? What were the fan speeds? How did you have the rads set up? Both intake, both exhaust or one of each? Thanks

[@AVTechy]

That is something I should have mentioned. It gets to that end of the video where it's so long things get cut a little short. I have been thinking for standardizing the testing by having the fans pinned to full speed to get the more consistent results for comparison in the future. There is no overclock on any of the components, and the front two fans are intake and the top fans are exhaust. My best estimate for the speed of the fans based on the fan curve and the temperature is around 1750rpm/2200rpm. Sorry for the lack of its inclusion in the video. I will take the hint and keep it in mind for all the other videos. And thanks for checking out the video.

[@anthonysmith9414]

AV thanks for responding. I am planning on doing a Ryzen 1700x and 980ti in an Inwin 301 with 3 EKWB Coolstream SE 120mm rads and am trying to get an idea of temps.

[@AVTechy]

+Anthony Smith Awesome! If I was doing a new build right now I'd be going for a Ryzen, all those cores would help out with rendering a lot. Unfortunately I'm not going to have the 301 watercooling build for a couple of weeks. When we're you planning to do yours?

[@anthonysmith9414]

AV I'll be doing my build over the next few months. Already have my case and a few of the components

[@AVTechy]

Good stuff, let me know if you want to run over any components if your a little indecisive over a few options. Otherwise best of luck with the build, and thanks for all the questions and for checking out the video. Just so you know, I've modified my testing method since your questions. I'm going to be running the case fans at full speed for the full duration of the test to reduce any fan speed fluctuation when comparing case to case results, and to see how the cases can perform at its highest air flow rate. I'm not sure I can have an acoustic test that I can reliably replicate, so I'm going to leave that out for the time being, but I'll provide comments about the noise levels just as an indication. Anyway, thanks again for the questions, without them it's harder to make changes to improve the quality of the videos!

[@marcogarciadeleon5840]

I would like to do what you do in watercooling, great job bro.

[@fliegendermongo]

Hi, just a little tip: You could turn the music when the B-Roll comes a little bit louder and another type of music. It feels like I can sleep to this muisc. ^^ Btw, sry for my bad englisch I'm from germany.. (greetings from germany.. :) )

[@AVTechy]

Excellent suggestion, I'll keep an eye on background music during B-roll segments. As for the variety and style of music, I am always on the look out for tracks that aren't too distracting from the narration but have a good rhythm and tone. What I could so is isolate the B-roll segments and have a distinctive track specifically for that segment, and then move on to the final narration. Your English is not bad, perfectly understandable. You should see some of the people who are born in Britain type, it's as if they spilled a Scrabble set over the page and thought "that will do". Anyway thank you so much for the advice, it's priceless! And thank you for taking the time to reach out to me about it. If you stick around, I hope you will see (or hear) the improvements for yourself.

[@BGR3views]

Can I remove 5.25 drive bay in this case? Do you think it's great case, or maybe you know something better at the 50$ price point? I'm looking for mATX case for my watercooling project, do you think it's a great choice? Nice videos btw, I love your channel. :)

[@AVTechy]

You can't remove the 5.25" HDD bay (top drive cage, just to confirm). It's mechanically fixed with rivets, which as another viewer commented you can "drill out" but it may be riveted into position for case rigidity which is essential for water cooling since as you may be aware water cool builds weight a lot more than an air cooled build. I can't definitely say this is the best case for a $50, since I haven't built in all the other $50 cases. However I can say this case was a solid case to build in, with decent cable management room. The top 5.25" drive cage was an excellent place to hide the fill port so it does have a good use. You may even be able to squeeze a 5.25" to 3.5" drive sled adapter to store a 3.5" drive up there with the fill port. There are many possibilities with this case. However you need to be super tidy with your front of house cable management since there isn't a basement (however basements are a more rare feature in a $50 case). If you've got a lot of spare cable like I had you'd be wise to get some colour matching Velcro straps to keep everything tight. So to wrap up, I think it's an excellent budget case. I would wholeheartedly recommend it to anybody for that price point. I was hesitant to "review" the case because it looked a little boring. But it completely flipped my judgment once I had built in it, after setting up the lighting it looked amazing. The shear size of the side window draws so much attention to the build inside, rather than the minimalist design of the case itself. Airflow and cooling is great, it's admittedly hard to cool a 6700K under full load with a Hyper 212 Evo but this case managed it well. Anyway I could keep going for a long while. If you want to ask more questions more specific to the build you would do in this case let me know. I'd be more than happy to help out! Thanks for checking out the video, and thank you so much for your interest in the channel! I hope to keep improving the videos, let me know when I slip up and I'll do my best to rectify the issues with following videos!

[@BGR3views]

Wow, thanks for such a long answer. I've got an Swiftech h220x kit, which I'm going to expand by GPU block and (probably) reservoir. It's kinda unfortunate that you cant take out the drive cage since it'd look a lot nicer with res in there. :c I may go with 5.25 res, but I don't think it looks that great. Anyway, thanks again, greetings from Poland :) P.S. If you see any linguistic mistakes, correct me, I'm doing my best.

[@AVTechy]

No problem, let me know if you have any other queries. If you were to go with a bay reservoir then you'd want to find the right one. I think EKs bay reservoir would be a fairly good fit: www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-bay-res-d5 Thinking about it that's a really smart way to use this case, the bay needs to be used since it can't be removed. And it would get the reservoir out of the way for the rest of the build which should make things a little easier. I mean you saw how tight the connections were between the GPU block and the Pump. Admittedly they do have a completely different look to tubular reservoirs, but it's really all about personal taste. Whatever you choose, just make sure create tight clean lines with your tubing to prevent a sagging/lazy look. Finally, just to end, thanks for checking out the video and commenting! And your English and grammar are far better than most of those born in Britain (especially from those who communicate online), very understandable.

[@BGR3views]

Finnally I went with this case: www.coolermaster.com/case/mini-tower/masterbox-lite-3-1/ I know airflow will be much more restricted, but i loved it's looks :D

[@AVTechy]

It does seem to be a heavily air restricted case. But since you're using a water cooling setup that should get past the issues that air cooling would give you. Other than that it's a neat looking case, and seems to have excellent cable management options. Best of luck with the build and thanks again for watching!

[@KOLTA4EVER]

can you say please whats that fan head model and where you bought it from ? thanks bruh

[@AVTechy]

Fan head model? I'm assuming you're referring to the fan hub which in this video was borrowed from the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX case. But there are plenty of great fan hubs around that are very affordable and effective. There was a recent video that I created on water-cooling parts, and fans and fan connectors were covered in that. You can check that part out here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJakZIduaMR9nJIm54s Let me know if I misunderstood the question, and I'll do my best to take a second crack at it. Thanks for checking out the video, and I hope you found it useful!

[@stackinthepaper362]

Can you remove the HDD cage at the bottom and top?

[@AVTechy]

The bottom HDD cage can be removed, but the top 5.25" bay is riveted in place. You can see a close look at this in the Air-cooled video at the 1.50min mark at this link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGHRaYCOoLqmbNUm50s The quality of that video and this one is not at the standard of today's videos, but is should get the information across. Thanks for checking the video out, and if you have any more questions let me know!

[@implantologie2087]

My cablemanagment in my pc is friggin shit

[@jackbeames7643]

In mine I have drive bays all on the right but I can’t take them out.

[@chrispicinich4789]

Does this case possibly fit a ASUS 270H with a corsair 100i V2?

[@AVTechy]

This case won't fit that motherbaord, however its bigger brother will: www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/focus-series/focus-g They look basically the same, so if it was the style you were after then you're sorted. But if it's the size that is most important to you then you'd need to change that motherboard to an mATX (micro ATX) board, the one you've mentioned is an ATX (which is one size bigger than an mATX). But the cooler will fit in both cases either way, so there's no need to change that. Let me know if you have any more questions, and of course thanks for checking out the video!

[@chrispicinich4789]

Thanks for the help but I made a small mistake on the mother board, its actually a Asus strix Z270i. Will the smaller case work or will the bigger one be better? I don't really mind for size of the case I just don't want to buy the wrong case and then have to return it.

[@AVTechy]

+Chris Picinich No problem. The Z270i is a mini ITX board which is the smaller of the two sizes that the Focus G Mini can take. That size board will definitely work in this case. Just out of curiosity, do you already have the board or is it something on a list of components you want to get? The only reason I ask is that a micro ATX board may serve you slightly better for expansion in the future. With a micro ATX board you'd have the opportunity to install another Graphics card in the future. But if that's not something your into, then the mini ITX board would be great. You could even go for a smaller case in the future, which is what I'll be doing on the channel at some point. Anyway, bottom line is with that board you want the Focus G Mini, not the Focus G. Let me know if you have any more questions. If not, best of luck with the build!

[@chrispicinich4789]

Thanks for the help, I will most likely get a Z270h ATX MB with this case

[@AVTechy]

Nice, just to confirm you're going to need the "Focus G" case, and not the "Focus G Mini" case featured in this video. I just don't want you getting the wrong components and having to set your build date back. I know that sort of thing really annoys me. Best of luck with the build, and let me know if you have any other queries.

[@wh0dzn981]

this case is awesome tbh - might do a build in it too :D

[@AVTechy]

Sorry I thought I'd get your other comment out of the way before responding to this one. This is a very open case that has some great options for all sorts of setups. It also has some great acoustics for an open vent case and excellent cooling. Well worth considering for your build. Thanks for the comments and checking out the video, it's great to have viewers like you that get involved with the comments. Also, considering you've laid down a few comments, please feel free to point out bits of the video you didn't like to much, and bits that you liked a lot. It helps me filter out the bad and makes sure I retain the good segments to make future videos better! Anyway, thanks again for the comments. I'll be air-cooling the INWIN 301 which is only £25 more than this case and includes a tempered glass side panel. It'll be interesting to see how it deals with the thermal testing, but should be an awesome video! Best of luck with your build, let me know if you need any more help with deciding over components!

[@wh0dzn981]

"please feel free to point out bits of the video you didn't like to much" i enjoyed all your videos they're super good quality for a channel this size, you're gonna get somewhere im telling ya

[@AVTechy]

Haha thank you very much, one issue I have with my videos is the intro audio. I really need to get a hot shoe mic for the camera. Lets see where this ride goes, and I really appreciate you coming along with me on it. Anyway I've got about 1.5 hours to build in the INWIN 301, so I've gotta go haha!

[@wh0dzn981]

good luck my dude!

[@vibrationmen]

Nice videos. Hello из Russia :D

[@AVTechy]

Thank you very much! Hello from Wales! Thank you so much for checking out the video, and I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[@wolfshanze5980]

All of that top-notch work and LED's inside the case, and yet you stuck with the two 3-pin cheapo 4-wire white LED fans on the front? Why didn't you replace those fans with something better? You did such amazing hard work elsewhere, you should have complimented it with better fans up front. Still, it's obvious you put a lot of work into this build, and it was very interesting to see... as some others have mentioned, you might want to take a breather during your voice overs... you talk at breakneck speed! ;-)

[@AVTechy]

Appreciate the comments. It would have been nice to replace the fans in the front, but I couldn't justify buying RGB fans back then since I'd already blown too much on the water-cooling kit. Since then I haven't actually bought any RGB fans (not sure what my excuse is now :P), but SilverStone did send me a set of ARGB fans to use in videos which was nice. Back to the video and your comments. I agree the narration is way too fast - just a nerves thing from being on camera in the first handful of videos. This video was part of the early days of reviews on the channel and doesn't represent the channel very well anymore, but I'll leave the video up for the information it provides (however poorly presented it is). Anyway, thanks for the feedback and I hope if you catch any of the more recent videos on the channel in your searches for information about certain cases you find the standards have improved and the videos are overall a little easier on the eyes and ears.

[@wolfshanze5980]

@@AVTechy ya... I was searching for reviews on this particular case (Fractal Design Focus G Mini) as I'm doing a build of my own in this case and ran across your video. As mine is just a budget build, I'm sticking with air cooling only, but I did replace the front fans... not with RGB, but just a 3-pack of upHere blue LED PWM fans for $16... they're way better than the cheap 3-pin fans that come with the case and gave me a third fan for rear exhaust... certainly not as complex as your impressive liquid cooling, but it works for a cheap budget build. I enjoyed watching your interesting build and look forward to viewing your more recent videos.

[@scottkailey1]

The top drive cage can be removed very easily with a drill and a drill bit. just drill out the pop rivets.

[@AVTechy]

That's a fair point, but by that logic I could also saw the top off and put a quad 120mm radiator in. There's potential that it's been riveted into position to form a cross brace for the case, perhaps to support the extra weight of a radiator. It may not be necessary, but it could be there to ensure the quality feel of the case so it doesn't come across as flimsy or cheap. In my opinion if you have to damage a case to make it work for you, it isn't suited to your needs and it might not be the right case for you. Or it perhaps isn't the best design, but I couldn't recommend people to buy a case under the premise that they need to use a drill. I'm not one to criticize modding, I had to cut the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX to get a larger radiator in, but I have never recommended anyone to do it since it's not something that everyone can do easily. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for checking out the video!

[@AVTechy]

+scott k The point is valid regardless of your opinion. They are both mods, and both cause damage to the case not intended by the manufacturer. Granted my option is more extreme, but that's the kind of thing people will say in life to make certain points. Bringing up age as validity of an argument is hilariously childish, just to straighten that out your a little off but I don't need clarity or justify that sort of response. And in case that flew over your head, age doesn't always directly correlate to knowledge. People can be 50 and know nothing, and others could be say '16' and know vastly more. And vice versa. Anyway, just a little response to respond to yourself. I'm going to assume you'll disagree. But that's just the beauty of free speech!

[@camieabz]

Handy tip: Use plastic cocktail sticks to align the fans to the rad, and remove one by one as you pop on the screws.

[@AVTechy]

Nice tip, I recently discovered a couple of months ago that you can also install half the screws, and then sway them out afterwards to create the same effect. Appreciate you posting the tip here, and thanks for checking out the video!

[@valkyriedawn5274]

GG

[@jacksonarmstrong7175]

12:52 ... Get your mind out of the gutter

[@AVTechy]

Took me a few takes to get my head around your comment... now I see what your driving at! Thanks for checking out the video!

[@jacksonarmstrong7175]

AV yeah, you're kind of hand fucking the case lmao

[@Richard_Reviews]

dont cut the tubing with scissors kids....

[@AVTechy]

Come on then, I'll humor you on this. Why not?

[@Richard_Reviews]

AV Techy straight cuts only. Yours are not even close go Straight. Good vid anyways

[@AVTechy]

I've found running loops for 6 months without the straightest cuts doesn't create any issues. It seems as long as there's a good 5mm of tubing past the edge of the collar there won't be a leak. But, I'm always looking to improve these videos, so is there a tool that you would suggest getting for future water-cooling builds?

[@Richard_Reviews]

AV Techy i send you the link to it m8!

[@Richard_Reviews]

AV Techy www.coolerkit.se/shop/slangsax-6-37mm-2406p.html?key=07XX021&track=searchdbprodukter Its a swedish site but this is the tool you want to buy! Nice vid m8

[@jaisalpatel5812]

How can you afford that you just have 186 subscribers

[@AVTechy]

I work a full time job and I pay for it, just like anyone else. I'd love the ad revenue to be able to pay for some of it, but at the moment that amount of views that get ad blocked means that's not a possibility right now. It's a shame, but I'm hopeful that I can make it work sometime in the future.

[@JensenDKMG85]

Decent content. Slow the fuck down though, jesus. I had to rewind so much.