Frame fixing tip for close to the edge fixing. (timber stud to block wall)

[@jackellisonuk]

These are the best kind of tips! So simple yet something I had never thought about 👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Jack?. Its sometimes the simplest things that get overlooked.🤪 Thanks for your comment.

[@jackellisonuk]

@@thetallcarpenter no problem thanks for the generous knowledge sharing 👏

[@thetallcarpenter]

@@jackellisonuk You're welcome.🤩

[@errolharriott2889]

that's a very good tip, lets have more like this Sir.. every little tip counts...

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Errol. Thanks for your comment. These are only small little things that I mostly forget I'm doing.😝 Cheers

[@stephencarlisle3743]

Love it . 55yr old and I’m still learning . Great tip 👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Stephen. I'm catching you up mate.😝 Thanks for your comment.😎 Cheers.

[@vicinglis3736]

agree, never stop learning this guy is so easy to watch

[@thetallcarpenter]

@@vicinglis3736 😎 Hi Vic.

[@stefanogortaldi3156]

fantastic tip...I felt compelled to sign in in order to click a well deserved LIKE - because not many tips are so useful (and so often we need to fix frames near the edge). Great stuff.

[@thetallcarpenter]

Appreciate your comment Stefano🤩and thanks for like and watching👊Cheers Del

[@101alexs]

Had never occurred to me when using these type of fixings before. Excellent heads up on that👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Alex. 99% of the time its irrelevant which way you put them in, there's just the odd time that time that isn't.🤩 Thanks for you comment.👍

[@1_MartinFlanagan]

Thank you, great tip. Especially for thermalite style blocks.

[@thetallcarpenter]

My pleasure 🤩and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del

[@Hew.Jarsol]

Well explained. Like you say these are strong. 2nd best is the T30s!

[@thetallcarpenter]

Cheers bud🤩Thanks for your comment👍

[@sygad1]

never even thought of that, thanks for sharing the tip

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Darren. No sweat mate.👍 Cheers.

[@andrewplatt]

Good little tip👍 I was waiting for the block to split though 🤣

[@thetallcarpenter]

I cant deny Andrew, that there is always a tiny part of me waiting for the block to split every time I do this.😬 Thanks for your comment.👍

[@vespagd67]

Great tip never gave it a thought what way they expand will remember that cheers 👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Gary. Its pretty much the same for most nylon plugs. Thanks for your comment.👍 Cheers

[@vespagd67]

@@thetallcarpenter correct never looked to see which way they have gone in will use your tip 👍

[@jonnyhifi]

what a smart observation I've never thought about . thank you.

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Johnny. Pretty simple, but can make or break a fixings success 💪 Thanks for watching 😎

[@tad2ik]

great tip. I never thought of that

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi there🖐It's an easy, small detail to overlook👍Cheers Del

[@TheTraditionalGolfer]

Best tip ive seen in ages 👌 so simple

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi there. Appreciate you watching and your comment.🤩

[@pdashs5810]

That Sir, is a great little tip👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi there. Thanks for watching.😎

[@richardbood4795]

Minor detail, but a top tip..👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@thetallcarpenter]

Cheers.🤩

[@michaellinahan7740]

Richard, sorry I disagree. While it is obvious when the mechanics of the situation are pointed out it is something I had never considered so for me it is a great tip.

[@richardbood4795]

@@michaellinahan7740 Hi Michael.. When saying minor detail, I meant it as something very few people would even consider to look for in that scenario , which makes it such a good tip..👍🏻

[@michaellinahan7740]

@@richardbood4795 sorry Richard I misunderstood your comment. As the kidywinks say "my bad"

[@richardbood4795]

@@michaellinahan7740 No worries..👍🏻👍🏻

[@MrTomomahony]

thars a great tip ,never thought of it .cheers

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi there🖐Yeah, it's a really simple thing, but it's definitely relevant in certain situations👍Cheers Del

[@davidbetts9587]

Awesome. Very useful. Thank you

[@thetallcarpenter]

Thanks for watching David👍Cheers Del

[@TYLERCONSTRUCTION]

Excellent tip 👍👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

Cheers Tyler.😀

[@manayconstruction5861]

I like it! Especially the 'these fixings aren't free' comment👍👍.

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi there. They are pretty reasonably priced, but still cant waste them.🤪 Thanks for your comment.👍

[@cr-ew8od]

So simple! So clever

[@thetallcarpenter]

😎👍

[@punterjac8695]

Just wanted your opinion if one could fix a 10g screw into a 9g wall plug? Thanks

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi there🖐I'm unfamiliar with gauge diameters, but as long as the screw diameter is smaller that the hole for the plugs diameter, then it will be fine👍Cheers Del

[@punterjac8695]

@@thetallcarpenter Thanks for this. So, the shank diameter of the screw has to smaller than the diameter of hole drilled by the masonry bit for the wall plug or the diameter of the opening on the wall plug? What I mean is if it is ok to use a screw that is around 60mm in length and 4.8mm in shank diameter into a wall plug that is inserted into a 25mm hole that was drilled using a 6mm masonry bit into a brick wall to attach a 1800 mm timber paling that is 19mm in thickness. Initially I attached 6 screws from the timber paling into the brick wall (that is around 750mm in height) to fasten the timber paling with a 50mm screw that had a shank diameter around 4.2mm. However, when it is very windy some of the screws along with the 25mm wall plug come loose. So, I was wondering if removing the 50mm screw and replacing this with a 60mm screw would get me a more secure connection for the timber paling to the brick. Thanks for your input.

[@thetallcarpenter]

@punterjac8695 I would use 5x60 screws into red plugs, (these go into a 6mm hole), to fix 25mm battens to a wall👍That will be super secure and pull out any twists/bows on the timber💪

[@punterjac8695]

@@thetallcarpenter Thanks for the advice.🙂

[@popcornlover948]

Great tip mate

[@thetallcarpenter]

Cheers.😎

[@harryjames7774]

Do you have any tips if you are using these fixings on a rendered wall where you can’t see the bricks and mortar?

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Harry🖐AllI would do is orient the fixing correctly if you are close to the edge of the wall👍(if you are well inside the edges, then the fixing should work wherever you place it) 😎 Cheers Del

[@graemesmith8509]

Great tip 😁👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

Cheers Graeme🤗Thanks for watching

[@johnbradley4881]

hi is it a 1omm bit for 10 mm frame fixing only asking as i used some today and they were bending with a 10mm hole cheers

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi John. What did you use to drill the hole through the timber?. Anything other than a 10mm wood bit, (spade or auger), will cause the nylon plug to bind in the timber.👍

[@johnbradley4881]

@@thetallcarpenter hi there i went straight through ledger board with 10mm masonary sds bit can that reall y be the difference ?

[@thetallcarpenter]

@@johnbradley4881 Bingo John. The sds drill leaves a fairly dirty hole in the timber as it smashes the wood fibres rather than cutting them, and this is enough to make it almost impossible to hammer the plug through it. I always drill the timber first with a decent wood specific bit first and then the plug slips straight in.😵 Cheers.

[@johnbradley4881]

@@thetallcarpenter thankyou for your instant reply i will be trying it tomorow cheers

[@pjeball]

I can confirm this is the case. Helping a mate yesterday and sidn't like one of my pre drilled (wood) hole positions once presented to the wall. So, left that fixing til last and re-did it with the SDS in situ. It went in but it put up a fight!

[@rambofpv4402]

Thanks, just subbed 👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

Thanks for watching🤩and for subscribing🤗Cheers Del

[@rambofpv4402]

@@thetallcarpenter hi Del. Where are you based in the UK mate? Nowhere near Shropshire are you by any chance?

[@thetallcarpenter]

@Rambo FPV I'm over in East Anglia, (Cambridgeshire), but do get over your way for mountain biking and rowing regattas at Ironbridge👍

[@rambofpv4402]

@@thetallcarpenter ah yeah it’s pretty good around here for that! Was just wondering work wise! 😅👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

@@rambofpv4402 I only work within 20 minutes of where I live nowadays😉

[@stephenwatson1873]

Great tip thank you

[@thetallcarpenter]

No worries Stephen. Thanks for watching.🤩

[@1starshot]

Great tip. Never really thought about it until now. Are those frame fixings good enough for fire door frames or are there special non plastic ones? Cheers.

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Paul. I wouldn't be able to say for certain if these would be acceptable for fixing fire door frames, but I've never seen a spec that says to use anything specific for this job.👍 Cheers.

[@1starshot]

@@thetallcarpenter Hi TT, thanks for reply. As the frames have to be sealed around with fire mastic I don't suppose it really matters. By the time the fire has burned through that or the frame, if you 'aint out the building you're already dead ☠.

[@thetallcarpenter]

@@1starshot You're dead right Paul.😜

[@1starshot]

@@thetallcarpenter Watched this last night, the kit comes with plastic fixings. I've got some fire doors & frames to fit for Wetherspoons & Premier Inns/Whitbread's, they stipulate no fire foam as used in this video, fire mastic only. Toolbox Talk: Installing Timber Fire Doorsets October 2018 kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3Wplpmpmpl2raM

[@jamesbrookes5614]

How much space to you account for with the dot and dab behind the plasterboard. Do you allow for 10mm or 12mm. This mans the stud will overtake the wall in your video by 10mm or 12mm subject to the dap depth you allow once the dabs are compressed.

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi James. I always allow for a dot and dabbed wall, (with 12.5mm board), to be about 25mm. All the tacking is done first including ceilings and studwork, leaving the sticking of boards to the blockwork till last.😎 (as you suggest, the stud would be almost buried if the dot and dabbing was done first). Cheers.👍

[@jamesbrookes5614]

@@thetallcarpenter if I have understood correctly, the stud sticks out 12.5mm from the block face. This then allows 12.5mm dab to block and 12.5mm plasterboard which makes 25mm?

[@thetallcarpenter]

@@jamesbrookes5614 The stud is 38mm thick. The thickness of adhesive is 12.5mm and the board is 12.5mm, (25mm total). If you were to stick the walls before tacking the studwork, there would be 13mm of the stud sticking out.👍

[@bartbug1]

Great tip thsnks

[@thetallcarpenter]

Cheers Bartbug.👍

[@bobpreston5113]

Nice one 👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

Thanks Bob.🤩

[@liftfan2]

Wow! Just when I thought I knew it all ....

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi LC🖐It's only a small thing, but can definitely make a difference👊Cheers Del

[@darrenmaloney761]

Cracking tip but most rough arse site joiners would nail it with the paslode infact most don't own a sds drill I know of..

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Darren. I've seen what you're saying on sites that I've been doing specialist installations on.😭 Thanks for your comment👍.

[@sharesgames9546]

Wish all tradesmen were as competent as you...

[@thetallcarpenter]

Thank you SG🤩Cheers Del

[@kds471]

Do you guys not use tapcons?

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi there. I'm people do use them, but I stick with these as they are a great all round fixing.🤩 Cheers.

[@Wayne55231]

was that a 10mm fixing?

[@thetallcarpenter]

Yes Jano👍

[@leeedwards3783]

Great tip Sir. Is this a standard fisher hammer fixing? What size fixing do you use for 4 x 2 sawn timber. Your using cls there which is thinner but what ratio is there for fixings of screw in wood and screw is masonry. Thank you. Love the videos

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Lee. These are standard Fischer fixings, but not hammer in type. I would still be happy using 100mm long fixing for 2" timber straight into masonry. (ie. about 50mm of fixing in the masonry).👍 Glad you like the videos and thanks for watching them.😎

[@leeedwards3783]

@@thetallcarpenter hi. Thanks for the quick reply and information. Funny, as I have driven around half of London today trying to get some 120mm hammer fixings. Excited to make and use your door lining jig next week. Could you give an idea of what size rough opening for doors? What gap to play with? Thank you

[@leeedwards3783]

@@thetallcarpenter you are a gentleman. Thank you so much

[@thetallcarpenter]

@@leeedwards3783 Glad I could be of service Lee.🤩

[@lesterdewey7644]

Great Tip. When you give these tips out is it possible to say what size fitting and where you sourced them from. I'm sure people earn money from doing that sort of thing. Thanks anyways

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Lester. I'll try and remember to give a few more details.👍 Cheers.

[@RollCorruption]

Perfect, going to be using some of these today and tomorrow for the first time... My only worry... There's a steel gas pipe right under the slab where regs have insisted I put fixings. I swear they are trying to kill me.

[@thetallcarpenter]

Crikey mate, you need to tread very carefully there😣 Good luck🤞😎

[@garvielloken3929]

Wicked!

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Garviel.🖐 Thanks for watching.👍

[@tashtant]

Makes sense

[@thetallcarpenter]

👍 Cheers

[@mintymintygogo]

Spent all morning doing exactly the same thing- same fixings , same blocks but got through a whole packet and none of them gripped. Did everything you said including drill not impact driver. Why?????

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi there🖐Sorry to hear you are not having success with your fixings😬and nothing obvious springs to mind🤔 I only use tge Fischer fixings where the sleeves only have one split in, are your fixing the same🤔Cheers Del

[@mintymintygogo]

Thank you for the message. Not sure what the blocks I'm drilling into are called but they aren't concrete. I can drill the pilot hole with a wood drill bit. Breeze blocks- is that what they're called. Anyway I assume the the fixing is expanding as it should but it's eroding the block substrate and getting loose rather gripping. I've filled the hole with No More Nails before putting the fixing in and seems to be holding. If I was to do it again in those blocks I would use a drill bit 1mm smaller than recommended. I used 8 mm fixings and an 8 mm masonry bit which I would do in a concrete block but didn't seem to work in these blocks.

[@thetallcarpenter]

@@mintymintygogo Yep, sounds strange that you have struggled here, as you seem to be doing everything right🤔

[@darrenroche9225]

I use the concrete frame fixings now much handier, well I think.

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Darren. I'm not a fan of concrete screws, but that's maybe because I'm not using them properly. I can never seem to get them to pull the timer really tight to the concrete/blockwork. They are definitely quicker and cheaper though.👍 Thanks for your comment mate.🤩

[@darrenroche9225]

@@thetallcarpenter I know what you mean but I seem to get away with it, but each to their own, you keep the videos coming

[@thetallcarpenter]

@@darrenroche9225 Appreciate your comments as always Darren.🤩 Cheers mate.👍

[@darrenroche9225]

@@thetallcarpenter they are enjoyable videos

[@thetallcarpenter]

@@darrenroche9225 Appreciate that mate.😎

[@SuperWayneyb]

👍🤓👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

Cheers Wayne.🤩

[@mark3995]

👌👌👌👌👌

[@thetallcarpenter]

👍🤩

[@petergouvignon8048]

that was the plug in not the screw! why not fix into joint?

[@thetallcarpenter]

👍

[@EireFirst2024]

You'd think common sense would work this 1 out, but as they say tis not that common ( anymore) 👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

😜

[@francismarion4450]

Hard to believe people still attaching white wood to masonry.

[@thetallcarpenter]

Yeah, still doing it Francis.👍Cheers

[@thetallcarpenter]

@Francis Marion Why not?. 👍

[@thetallcarpenter]

@Francis Marion Hi Francis. If there's moisture in the blockwork, I think the timber absorbing it would be the least of anyone's worries. These are dot and dabbed plasterboard straight onto the blockwork, so moisture soaking into that would be a disaster.😵. If I'm honest, its not something I'm aware of that causes a problem, but can see your point.👍 Cheers.

[@thetallcarpenter]

@Francis Marion Hi Francis. I really appreciate your comments and its really cool to learn about construction processes and the ways that certain problems are dealt with in different parts of the world. Here in the UK the whole floor structure is concrete over DPM. (Damp Proof Membrane). The internal and external block and brick skins, (walls), are built on a DPC, (damp proof course), to stop any rising damp, and are a certain distance above ground level. Damp penetration of the external brick skin is virtually non existent even when its exposed to perlonged driving rain, so we just don't get a problem with external moisture in the internal skin. Bizzarely, the most probable cause of moisture in the external skin is from humidity generated within the building from people just living in it!!. But again, this is virtually imeasurable. Thanks again for your comments.👍 Cheers.

[@thetallcarpenter]

@Francis Marion Cheers mate.🤩

[@JakeBM4]

That's soft block, just get the 1st fix paslode out! Just kidding!

[@thetallcarpenter]

You naughty boy.🤪

[@bartbug1]

Great tip mate

[@thetallcarpenter]

Cheers bud.😎