Framing stained glass pieces with Zinc

[@jenniek3576]

This is THE BEST zinc frame video I’ve seen that shows how to cut the right lengths! Thank you!!!!

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Glad it was helpful Jennie

[@darhlene7958]

Where did you buy that mitre box that you attach to a table? I need one of those.

[@lukefisher7618]

I just realized that I was at your place a couple of weeks ago. You weren't there but I got a lot of help (and bought some glass) from an extremely helpful person there. This is the video where I learned how to do those great corner angles with the zinc. Thanks. Look forward to coming back to your studio.

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Ha, the small world thing! Sorry i missed you. Hopefully Ill be here for the next visit.

[@sandrabrown476]

What an excellent tutorial! Thank you. I've been using zinc to frame my glass pieces for years and this is exactly how I was taught. Kudos to my teacher, Ralph Esposito.

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Nice job Ralph Esposito.....Always a feather in the cap when students remember you and your instruction fondly

[@MishaWilliams]

My first time using a zinc frame. Couldn't have done it well without your video! Thanks!!

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

I’m so glad it helped Misha

[@theresabradley4716]

This is an excellent video! I made a copper foiled project and wanted to put a frame around it to make it sturdier and wasn't sure how to go about it. Thanks to your video, I will know what to do! Many thanks.

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Thats great Theresa, Hope it worked out

[@kathymanzo4061]

Thank you for a very informative video. Also I like the way you have positioned the hanging rings into the glass and not into the zinc frame as my instructor had me do with my panel. This is much more professional looking!

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

I’m glad it was helpful. Everyone has their own take on things but after years of repairing things that were brought into our studio that had broken away and “crashed”…. It was apparent that the attachments need to be incorporated into the piece in a more substantial way…also behind the edge I think just looks better. 😊

[@Someoneoutthere67]

I was in Massachusetts several weeks ago? Did not realize you were so close to where I was, I was actually in South Hamilton? Wish I had known that because I would’ve loved to have visited your studio.

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Well damn….yes we are just a couple towns over in Peabody. If you come back please come visit!

[@MICHELLEEVANS33]

Is zinc only for the outside? Or can you use it inside like you can lead?

[@thesaladczar]

Great instruction. So glad I found this.

[@jackgillian987]

Kai, excellent video about using zinc framing, my question is the jig for cutting available, may a drawing. Thanks

[@katlecompte4163]

Thank you for the video! Very informative! Kat

[@susieshott9229]

Where did you get your miter box?

[@thepatron4663]

Beautiful art 👏👏👏

[@theresevarney4715]

This was a great idea and much needed information but without a close up, I couldn't see what you were doing. I really wanted to see how the cutting was marked. Sorry to be critical but if you are new to came, you would understand. I do enjoy your channel 😉

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Thank you for the comment! We need to hear it all and will definitely try to remedy in the next ones. Stay tuned!!!

[@saftah0305]

GREAT TUTORIAL! I only wish I could see your marks better where they intersect to understand the direction of the cut better.

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

So the way the zinc intersects, it will require a small piece of zinc with a straight cut to use as your prompt to see the point of intersection. the angled 45 degree cut is ALWAYS angled so that the short part of the angle is going to be the open (glass accepting) side. I hope this helps

[@saftah0305]

@@shardsglassstudio9298thank you very helpful

[@lukefisher7618]

Hi Kai, I've been looking for a small miter box with a clamp like you have but can't find one. As I looked closer at yours I had the thought that it was home made. Did you make it? Also, what is your preferred solder for foil? Brand, and 60/40 or 50/50. As always learn a ton from your videos. My granddaughter is getting ready for more glass so hope to see you again before long. Best, Luke

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

This mitre box is commercial but has been discontinued. There is one that is put out by Excel and comes with a utility saw for cutting the zinc. This one also does the trick!

[@raymondwilson3909]

hi, can you tell the name of the miter box ican't find it on ed hoys site. thank you

[@tdragonlady4706]

Great video, Thanks! Where can I buy a wood mitre box like yours?

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Gosh so sorry, The miterbox has been discontinued for the last 10-15 years..... I havent been able to find a substitute. Glad you enjoyed the video though

[@jimwiskus8862]

Thank you! Do you by chance have a video on soldering zinc to lead? I was curious too on the best flux and solder for joining the two. Thank you! Jim

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

I don’t have a video on that but thank you for the suggestion. Used paste flux to solder lead to zinc and 60 40 virgin solder. All that means is solder that has not been reconstituted. We use victory white metal.

[@good_deed]

Can I buy one of those shirts? It’s so cute. Love the style and fit.

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Thanks....Unfortunately we sold out long ago...If /when we print up more I will post it here!

[@deanamartin4954]

I love the video but I can't see how you mark where to cut. Can you text me that info? Thanks 😊

[@Someoneoutthere67]

Is it ok to put the border on then bead the panel?

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Sure that works

[@MICHELLEEVANS33]

What flux brand do you use?

[@bettyraimondo4427]

Do you tin the edges of the piece before the zinc framing?

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

No we dont. We stop our beaded solder seam about 1/4" from the outside edge and then leave the edge alone so that there is no extra girthfrom solder. This allows the zinc to snap on uninhibited!

[@bettyraimondo4427]

@@shardsglassstudio9298 thanks so much for your prompt reply!

[@aussiemachandmadeeverything]

Can i ask what the difference would be to using zinc compared to lead came ? All the reasons why ? Thankyou 😊

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Oh man, Theres alot to that question. Zinc is more of a pain to use in general...cant be bent without a zinc bender, so only good for straight perimeters, has to be cut with a hack saw, doesnt take patina all that great, but will take a black patina to moderate success. Lead is just as good a stiffening agent (unless you are using 1/2" zinc that allows for a steel rebar), can be cut with lead snips or wire cutters in a pinch, can be formed around curves, circles etc...and is just in general easier to work with. Most of our stuff is architectural so one never sees the outside edge as it is usually in a sash. There are so many other factors that you are welcome to ask specifics but if i tried to hit all the scenarios i would fail miserably. Hope this much is helpful.

[@aussiemachandmadeeverything]

@@shardsglassstudio9298 wow, Thankyou that is so helpful I'll just stick to lead its easier, Thankyou again for taking so much time to answer my question I really appreciate it 😊

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

My pleasure.....Have fun!

[@MICHELLEEVANS33]

How do you know what size channel to buy? Do you need to cement after like you do with lead?

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Im not sure there are any hard and fast rules about sizing zinc. The 1/2" u channel can be reinforced with a 1/8 x 1/4 rebar.....makes for a heavier piece but one with more rigidity. Other than that, id say let aesthetics be your guide. No you dont have to cement the zinc edging but again it lends strength.

[@shayanne7732]

Thank you!

[@debbiebryant3387]

I like paste flux and had thought of trying gel. Is it as corrosive as liquid? I use a lot less paste flux than you show, maybe I need to adjust my application.

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

I actually use way more paste flux than is necessary. It’s just a habit, but it does tend to work well, if there’s any oxidation that you need to get through. As far as corrosiveness, it’s probably about the same as a gel. The advantage to the paste is that it stays exactly where you dab it.

[@pipanova]

@@shardsglassstudio9298 Could you please share a name of your flux? I cannot find it in shops((

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

@@pipanova The paste flux is called Nokorode....And to kill two birds with one stone and answer another query....Paste flux is the least corrosive and im heavy handed when i apply, but need not be that generous,.

[@virginiakilduff5514]

What about the hangers? I solder the same as you but I have a terrible time with attaching the hooks to hang.

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

So we make our own hangers by twisting wire around a small cylinder (metal exacto works great). We then hang in two spots and try to pick an area where the hanger "tail" is being soldered into a seem...We never hang just from the zinc framing. We also advise clients to hang pieces "museum style" (straight up to 2 hooks spaced the same as the hangers on the piece, eliminates bending and pulling on the hangers)

[@c23fire30]

Where do you get our sink for framing and internal came

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

The zinc and lead both come from wholesale sources, but i believe any retail supplier would have them. Hope this helps

[@meganmalloy8338]

what is your vice strip holder thing called? I need that for my classroom and can't find one?

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Hi Megan, the lead stretcher is maybe what you are referencing? Its called a stanton stretcher put out by glastar. If you can find one.....buy it as glastar is out of business and these are hard to find. The only other thing that you might be referencing is the mitre box to cut exact angles in zinc. Any mitre box will do....this one is again put out by glastar and tough to find

[@billstonesstainedglasscrea3310]

Hi Kai, Thanks for the nice video on using zinc came. Can you tell me where you got the miter box you are using in your video. Have A great day!! Regards, Bill Stone

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Hi bill, The mitre box comes from Ed hoys international. They started retailing to the public a few years ago so you should have no trouble starting an account….if you don’t want to make a minimum $order you can ask your local stained glass shop to purchase for you

[@billstonesstainedglasscrea3310]

Hi Kai, Thanks for your info, I will check it out. Regards, Bill Stone

[@Someoneoutthere67]

Where did you get your miter box? I notice it is wood?

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

I got it through Ed hoys international but unfortunately they don’t sell them anymore.

[@LoriHagenmaier]

Did I miss what temp she has her iron set to? TIA for response!

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Temperature is a tricky thing as all irons and reostats are calibrated differently. The best thing is to take a sacrificial piece of lead or zinc (whichever you are using) and test. Too hot, the iron may melt through, too cool....it will feel sticky. Just right and the solder will flow nicely and you should be able to put your iron right down on the project with no adverse effects. Good luck!

[@MICHELLEEVANS33]

Can you overlap the corners if you don't want to miter?

[@glasslight7960]

Miters look more professional.

[@JimFulmer]

what's the process for doing a flat solder line?

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Think of flat soldering as making an even playing field before you go in and create that perfect bead. Flux copper foil lines….hold your iron flat (parallel) to your project…add enough solder to change the color of your foil to the silver solder color and fill in any gaps or weirdness. Minimal solder required. Doesn’t have to look pretty, that comes later with the bead. Hope this helps

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

AND if you haven’t already….take a look at our soldering video

[@Vermont.00]

Cleaner look as well

[@jenorrn]

Have you ever used a small chop saw to cut these???

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

I haven’t tried a small chop saw….let me know how it goes

[@glasslight7960]

I use a small miter saw from Harbor Freight. Works pretty well.

[@davidhill1220]

I’m a new subscriber Can you tell me if your in the States and what is the name of your flux I’m in Canada and can’t find it Thanks very much Patricia

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Yes we are in Massachusetts. the brand of paste flux we like is Nokorode. Ed hoys carries it (they are in Illinois) but any paste flux (non-resin) should be ok

[@MrPaulstride]

MAGIC

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

Hahahaha That’s how we think of it!!!

[@karenmcintyre4366]

This is a bad example cause your glass edges look like zink or lead before you even start working on the came cuts

[@shardsglassstudio9298]

At the beginning of the video we show you what we will be doing and what it will look like when the zinc is cut. We then go into a detailed description of the process and how it is accomplished. The piece that we are framing has a copper foil edge....not lead came or Zinc.......not till the end and the process is completed anyway! i know its long. Give it another look and see if maybe it resonates the second time around! Thanks for the feedback