100 "Illuminated" Toggle Switches... Or Not???

[@gorak9000]

Life is like a bag of switches - you never know what you're going to get

[@grndkntrl]

These have clearly been misassembled as the legs for the lamp are supposed to be routed through the two outer channels in the black plastic, over the edge, with the lamp sitting under the switch plate with the central hole so that the light goes up the central light-pipe.

[@listerdave1240]

Exactly, I have a few similar switches and they work fine. They have the lamp in the chamber between two of the contacts and it shines into the little 'globe' at the base of the switch lever through the hole in the switch plate. It looks like this was a batch probably rejected by QC for being assembled incorrectly, which is probably they were sold for a very cheap price.

[@johnalexander2349]

@@listerdave1240 Possibly not wrong, just a different SKU.

[@abandonedcranium6592]

Those tiny bulbs were very popular for model railroaders. I think I saw some "grain of sand" bulbs advertised when I was younger.

[@domozs4370]

...also @ car audio.

[@TheSpatialTheory]

2000 GM era- white incandescent bulbs with a little sillicone cap to make them red

[@DanielleWhite]

I remember those, along with some slightly larger with screw bases where the base was larger than the exposed part of the glass envelope.

[@Legomanfred]

Wheat bulbs is what I remember them as.

[@trevorhaddox6884]

Wheat/Rice bulbs go down to 1mm, found in modelling, watches, toys, exc. Those would be the "sand" bulbs. There's also 1mm tubular/fuse style bulbs (smd bulbs) used in watches, pagers, and other small screen backlights. They still make the 1mm leaded, don't know about the tubulars/SMD ones though.

[@39XenonD]

Every toggle switch is illuminated if you push enough current through it

[@FranLab]

That is true!

[@LarixusSnydes]

For a short while at least....

[@ownpj]

Why not route the legs of the globe up the alternate channels already provided on the inner body? This would position the globe just under the pivot point and provide better illumination of the toggle.

[@justbeeeb2061]

If that worked, that could make these switches be usable in more situations. I was thinking something similar to your comment ownpj.

[@TheAussieRepairGuy]

The second I heard LED, I knew... I've used many of these, but specifically because they weren't LED

[@SAVikingSA]

I've seen switches like that used in race cars at the local dirt track. They race at night, but the track is illuminated. Funky cockpit lighting means some guys prefer lit toggle switches, but dim ones that aren't distracting. Think of the effect as like a warm glow rather than illumination. The functionality is that the driver can glance at a switch if a system malfunctions, and see if the switch itself has power. Most of the drivers know their cars by feel, so it's really just a power indicator light.

[@ntsecrets]

The ACC terminology and 12v rating makes me think this was intended for automotive use. So that may be why only being visible in the dark would make sense.

[@tookitogo]

Yep, I immediately thought the same thing. The ACC terminal even has the headlamp symbol.

[@abandonedcranium6592]

I still can't get enough of your theme music jingle.

[@tvtoms]

We sold a similar at radioshack called an illuminated switch. NOT an LED lit switch though.. it clearly stated "long life bulb" as well on the back.

[@mal2ksc]

I have had the considerable displeasure of dealing with lots of neon-illuminated switches. They were okay-ish when new, but thirty or forty years later they've lost most of their gas and will just flicker at best, more likely not work at all, and can even arc.

[@bobair2]

The Chisel of Discovery and Clive's Vice of Knowledge who would of thought electrics and electronics could be so much fun ! I have the push button version that is better that those toggle switches.

[@MrBassonist]

Idea: DIode on the middle connector --> No grounding when off. Resistor (or even better current limiter) in series with the lamp to adjust to higher voltage if needed.

[@organfairy]

I have a couple of illuminated switches that are weirder: On the side of them it says '230V AC'. However, when I connected one of them as a mains switch there was a SSCCRRRRTHSSSSSS when I turned it on. Inside there is an LED that is connected DIRECTLY to the pins so that little LED got like a hundred times more that it is........ well, was.... designed for. I think whoever made these switches used an old plastic case from a neon lamp switch design and reused it as an LED switch.

[@Scott-s9u3n]

Older LCD watches had a tiny incandescent bulb for rhe backlight instead of an LED ... that's the smallest incandescent bulb I've seen.

[@Soundbrigade]

I have or maybe two toggle switches with a red lamp at the top of the toggle. The lamp is a neon lamp that runs on 220V and has separate connections.

[@MCPicoli]

Maybe the center pin is meant to be connected to some other monitoring circuit where it will be acknowledged the switch is on

[@MartysRandomStuff]

The case seems to have channels for wires to go up to the toggle, but also the space for the grain of wheat bulb off to the side but no channels for wires over there, very odd. Is there a reason for not having a spudger after all these years? For non-destructive taking apart of small stuff like this.

[@goodun2974]

Harbor Fright 😉 sells an "electronics repair kit" including spudgers, pry tools and miniature screwdriver bits (including those for security screws, gameboy screws, iPhone screws and so on). I reviewed one on my channel. I am told that I-Fixit sells almost identical Mako kits, refurbished, for less money.

[@heatshield]

I bought about 300 of those exact switches from Radio Shack thirty years ago for ten bucks when my tiny local shop was closing. Blue ones and red ones. Same orange sticker too. lol Did you sniff the air when you cut open that big bag? Mine were already individually bagged with a peg board card stapled on top. I’ve put these things in every car I’ve ever owned since 1993. Have fun! P.S. those bulbs burn out easy and for apparently no consistent reason.

[@Craig-wp3pz]

Uk Road Regulations require ALL lighting control switches for independently switched reverse, work, or spot lights be ILLUMINATED when turned on, so my toolbox always has a few...

[@ronwade2206]

In my 1997 Jeep Cherokee there were 3 illuminated toggle switches that melted themselves! The Fog light, the Rear Wiper and Rear Window Defroster switches all melted internally and I replaced them several times until I got some Honeywell surplus micro and toggle switches and never had another issue again. Lighted switches can melt themselves

[@timothy8428]

Years ago I bought a bunch of 12v panel lamps.Only ever used one or two because LEDs. Still fun to have.

[@Omri_Makes]

I had some similar, if not the same, switches like that a few years ago. The bulbs were def extremely dim.

[@goodun2974]

Actually, the best tool for opening switches and small relays with similar locking tabs is a pair of Exacto knifes. Having opened and cleaned a zillion small relays, I expected to see those hidden tabs underneath the label on the other side of the switch!

[@nilo70]

The first 1701 Enterprise model that came out had one of those bulbs for under the command dome . Wish I still had that model.

[@Jayoldstuff1]

These where likely intended for automotive use for the switching of auxiliary equipment.

[@alasdair4161]

I always marvelled at how long those grain of wheat bulbs could last, as long as they weren't overdriven. Now they make coreless motors the same size and for similar price.

[@YTANDY100]

when its off the switch contact connects to ground so even without the bulb it would short circuit and also another way to connect illuminated switches is to connect power to the lamp ,ground to ground and load to the power to make a see in the dark switch :-)

[@hanzzarkov7690]

I once installed a toggle switch which triggered an electric fuel pump, onto the dash of an old muscle car. Toggle switches ftw. They effect change.

[@chubbyadler3276]

Those things are still available on Amazon, and I used to get them from my local Autozone a decade ago. Haven't checked to see if they still have them. They are really just cheap illuminated automotive switches.They would work a lot better if the bulb was placed at about the hinge in a pocket, though. My question, though, is why are you going straight for the Chisel of Discovery? You should just be able to pop it right off with either a control screwdriver or a guitar pick. (Ask me how I know.)

[@FranLab]

I did try that first, but the two parts mated up too tightly to get anything in there. The chisel is perfect for getting into very tight spaces and expanding - which is what I did.

[@mal2ksc]

@@FranLab It could well be that yours have plastic-welded themselves shut. ABS in particular is kind of notorious for doing this (two parts in contact eventually fuse).

[@goodun2974]

​@@FranLab, Having opened and cleaned a zillion small relays, I have found that the best spudger set of all is a pair of Exacto knives. The blades are thinner than any spudger or chisel, and surprisingly strong.

[@goodun2974]

​@@mal2ksc, The covers over relays often shrink with age and make it more difficult to remove them.

[@meistudiony]

Run em all in series and see how many you get through before the light doesnt work.

[@chrisstorm7704]

Integral pull-down resistor, how convenient. I guess you could intentionally burn the filaments out of a few, but that just seems like a crime when dealing with vintage components. I guess those switches will have to wait a bit longer for their project to come along.

[@EE12CSVT]

They're automotive. Everything behimd the black ferrule will be hidden behind the fascia so only the switch handle will be illuminated.

[@jsl151850b]

*How much light would escape up the toggle if flashlight-type LEDs illuminated* *the semi-transparent base from the side? From both sides?*

[@mintonmiller]

99 💡switches on the wall...🎶🎹 🎹🎶

[@gcewing]

If you can find a less destructive way to open them, maybe you can replace the lamps with LEDs.

[@be.spiritlove]

Drill a hole between the plates and see if it goes though the light pipe = Does this work ?

[@TheChipmunk2008]

Maybe you could use a diode to eliminate the short circuit assuming it's DC and a dropper resistor or 'raised ground' to provide 12 volts from the output to the ground terminal

[@angrydove4067]

Were there really 100 in the bag?

[@chrisingle5839]

Use a Diode, in the middle contact, maybe?

[@harrypitts7389]

Easy remedy. Put 50v on the lamp to blow it out. Now its a normal switch. Forget the lamp.

[@jaysgood10]

Yeah, just plug it into the wall. Now it's a conversation piece.

[@satanbane]

No need to blow out the lamp, just ignore the ground connection, and the other two give you a regular SPST switch. No illumination, and no voltage restrictions.

[@Rudofaux]

Seems like there's a reason you got the bag for a price "you couldn't say no to."

[@SiaVids]

My first motor vehicle had a few switches identical to that, different colour ones too.

[@Escylon]

Strange design, clearly made to be installed through a hole and screwed down by the black ring. But then why put the lamp right above the ring? Either it is expected that the panel it is to be installed in is translucent or has an opening right above the lamp.

[@listerdave1240]

Design is OK but they are assembled incorrectly, probably a worker who was not instructed properly. I have a few almost identical ones and they have the bulb in the chamber between two of the contacts, just under the hole in the switch plate so light goes up through the stalk.

[@MySynthDungeon]

Double awesome! Coffee on! Here we go, ;-)!Cheers!!

[@mal2ksc]

Did you think they would be neon? Because you don't want new old stock neon lamp-lit switches either. They'll flicker like mad or not work at all, because most of the gas has escaped the enclosure. Use accelerates the degradation, but not using them doesn't prevent it.

[@FranLab]

Not at all - and there are no 12v neon lamps.

[@mal2ksc]

@@FranLab No, I suppose there aren't! I guess I wasn't limiting my thoughts to 12V for the light since it has its own terminal. I was just reminded instantly of the switches in old power strips, where the neon bulb flickers like mad even though everything is fine with the power.

[@haxxy40]

I've got 99 problems, but a switch ain't one!

[@Splarkszter]

I guess you can mod them by buying 12V LED's and soldering them there. Maybe even changing their position.

[@Splarkszter]

Chanzon in ali sells 12V LED's

[@owenmerrick2377]

That middle post is to connect the lamp to your dashboard light circuit.

[@Broken_robot1986]

Sweet switches!

[@EQEmulation-x4z]

I immediately thought that's allot of switches, Make a grid and re live your childhood days playing with a light bright. Would be a cool what picture can ya make with a grid of on or off illuminated switches. 😮

[@buckstarchaser2376]

Ahh... a set of "make once; sell many", priced too good to be true, factory errors.

[@NVIN-ov9dn]

God I hate those. They were always brittle after some time.

[@reinaweis]

I love me a good illuminated toggle

[@flymypg]

My guess is the light couples to the toggle in the middle, at the retaining ring. If the rest of the red plastic exterior is masked or painted black, then the toggle illumination may become more noticeable. Maybe.

[@KeritechElectronics]

100 of them? What were you planning to build? The icky plasticky switch is not very reassuring after all - the lever might break off. (Ubiquitous discombobulation fills you with determination.)

[@zsombor_99]

Technically this is "illuminated", just not specified how. 🙄

[@frankowalker4662]

What dissapointing switches. 🎅Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year everyone🎅

[@Anthony_The_Chicken_Licker]

What u will do with all of that lmao 🤣

[@luminousfractal420]

😂😂😂😂 im laughing. i have a few

[@BlooMule]

You're overthinking the design. The bulb is there, because that's the only place there is room for it.

[@narcoosseefl]

Temu is probably your friend on this one.

[@goodun2974]

Temu is a Chinese data mining organization, and as such is never your friend.

[@mrbootedcowby]

I was waiting for you to wire them in series / parallel and then apply 120 volts😂 Still very interesting

[@filepz629]

❤️‍🔥FRAN❤️‍🔥