Pro Bike Mechanic's 10 Most Hated Products

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#cycling #bikes #bicycle

[@hananas2]

Yup agree with most of this, except the no cables bit. I'd rather turn a barrel adjuster once every now and then than charge batteries which degrade over time and are expensive and proprietary to replace.

[@beerenmusli8220]

Yup same, and intentionally routing cables internally rather than hiding them with a cover or within a grove is just such a dickmove.

[@smithzk]

100% and if you do any weighted touring, I think you need a front derailleur.

[@thysonsacclaim]

EXACTLY - I also hate that bikes are becoming thing you can't work on yourself. Not everyone is a pro cyclist. We don't need all this crap.

[@prasad530]

SRAM batteries are 60 bucks and last for several years. Welcome to modernity, change isn't always bad.

[@hananas2]

@@prasad530 60 bucks is the price of a normal decent (nothing fancy) rear derailleur... "several years" isn't exactly impressive either, I prefer bike stuff to be around for several decades.

[@donnashorten3831]

I have a lefty fork bike, when you puncture you don’t have to take the wheel off at the front as it’s fully open with having an open fork, thus full access.😊

[@johndorney7812]

Was gonna say! It is tricky when you do want to take the wheel off though.

[@alf3071]

why don't they make a lefty rear wheel frame

[@danielrobertson3071]

Same here, it's way easier to remove the tire on a lefty.

[@chrisallen2005]

@@alf3071 Think long and hard and the answer will come to you. Don't ask.

[@n0b0dy07]

So, do you have a lefty but still uses tube tires???

[@aftengdur0]

Team front mech. Seems to be more versatile when you constantly switch between smooth tarmac roads, gravel roads and woods in one ride.

[@GordonChaffin]

I need the gearing range on my 9-speed so I run 46/30 on the front. I could go 1x if I had space for like a 52t rear cassette sprocket

[@Mike-de7wv]

Indeed.. was totally on board until the end. Front mechs and cables; seriously - so everyone should be on 1x with electronic shifting...? A hearty "f*ck that" from my bar-end-shifted triple and I!

[@ltu42]

@@Mike-de7wv Well, it's a mechanic's perspective! He gets to work on other people's bikes and hates when they come back for that half turn of the barrel adjuster once the cables settle in. I like maintaining my bike and I just love that feeling when everything just works perfectly after I've dialed it in.

[@attila_the_fun]

2x10 is more versatile even in just urban riding IMO. My daily ride has sections where 50km/h+ is easily achievable for decent stretches. Flatish sections where it's nice to push along at 35-40km/h. But then parts where you're stuck behind foot traffic on a 10% grade for 50m.

[@falcoperegrinus82]

Yup, I do all that plus hills with a bike loaded pretty heavy with my crap

[@beauhart8808]

Been a pro mechanic for nearly 20 years myself. If you can’t set up a front derailleur that works for more than six weeks you need to find another job. The front derailleur on my personal gravel bike worked great for four years with no adjustment and it was the worn out chainring that ruined the shifting. Thousands of miles and no issues.

[@simonm1447]

Yeah I'm not a pro mechanic (I just work on my own bikes as a hobby) but my front derailleurs never caused any problems

[@stevengagnon4777]

Agreed. Front derailleur are a good thing. Shimano is definitely the best make sure the front clain line is in spec use thier chain rings and chain and it will always work. Also pre tension the cable and seat the ferrals in . Never have any problems using Shimano 1.2 mm stainless with their 4 mm housin either and Shimano cable grease is worth the high cost less is better anyway. Avoid the short plastic ferral the longer ones are just fine plus they are less likely siese to the adjuster barrel and get stuck in the frame. A dab of grease on the ferral also goes a long way. Do all this and adjustments will be minimal and last for at least 5 maybe 10 years. Generally don't use sealed ferrals except the one on the chain stay and any that are pointed to the sky where water can pour in. Never use a metal ferral with a shifter that has a plastic housing seat either as it may damage the seat . It often can be fixed but it is a bit of cobble job. Keep your shifters lubed and they will stay working too that stuff from the factory doesn't last forever something light and yearly ( more often for winter) is better here. I use a mineral based ATF ( non synthetic automatic transmission fluid it won't hurt plastic) and a small amount of Lucas Red n Tacky to thicken it a bit. Works good on derailleur pivots and brake pivots too.

[@Kromaatikse]

I'm a complete amateur, but I was able to replace the cable and housing on my front derailleur without any difficulty. A trick I've heard of is to deliberately tighten the ferrules into the stops on an exposed cable run, by pulling the cable to the side, before even attempting to adjust the setting. What I did, however, was to run complete housing without an exposed section. I did that for improved weather resistance, since there are harsh winters here and I store the bike outdoors (under eaves). I'm also using a coated cable to eliminate friction. Works a treat.

[@aidanrhodes2285]

Fully agree, but my god some of the Shimano front derailleurs are so fussy.

[@DoNuT_1985]

I don't get the hate for front mechs. They are easy to adjust, they don't break and I don't want a 50-tooth cassette so that I can get up a steep hill. The only problem I ever had with my front mech actually was a slipping barrel adjuster - all it needs are a few twists and it is good enough. You shift 100 times more on the rear derailleur and these are a pain to adjust: with wearing cables, chains and other factors, you effectively have a window 45 kilometers per year where it really shifts flawlessly,

[@jmanswat2457]

It's just nice as a mechanic and shop not to have to deal with them and stock them and have the right ones that are compatible with whatever, and finding an alternative if we don't have yours, etc etc etc. There's enough on a bike that needs servicing so It's nice when there's one system deleted

[@DoNuT_1985]

@@jmanswat2457 Yeah but that's true for most road bike parts, isn't it? Same goes for rear derailleurs with 3 common groupset tiers from 2 manufacturers (sorry, Campy), different generations, cage length and even color options... I would argue that taking away 2x from a road bike in most regions would impact your riding on every tiny climb - a bit like saying: run your car on all-season tires so that the shop isn't bothered with changing them every season. As a rider/customer, my expectation is that drivetrain parts except from wearing components need to be ordered if I had a failure, anyway.

[@joelv4495]

I just bought a new GRX 810 2x group, and the supplier shipped the 1by left shifter by mistake. I have a spare bar-end friction shifter and I'm seriously thinking of running the FD that way. How's that for a mullet build?

[@peterwillson1355]

​@@joelv4495Why WOULDNT you want friction on the fd, especially when it's only two chainrings?

[@JeremyLawrence-imajez]

@@jmanswat2457 - except the FD is the part that's about the most fit and forget item on bike. Why should customers compromise their riding, just because lazy mechanics can't be bothered to do their job.

[@RichCabezaCalamari]

Just converted my new Specialized Crux from 1x to a 2x. SRAM Force Etap, 46/33 front ring, 10/36 12sp cassette, love it! Using the bike as an endurance road bike, the new gearing is low enough for our 14% stingers, and I can now keep up with the fast roadies downhill. And, smaller tooth jumps between cogs. Night and day difference, not going back to the mullet.

[@PabloEder]

Yeah also converted from 1x to 2x. My mechanic was really confused. But I use my bike both for bikepacking (heavy) and I put it on the trainer for Zwift. 1x really wasn't cutting it at all. I don't worry about spinning out anymore and also have better gearing for uphill when heavy.

[@steve24550]

Aside from any debate regarding front mechs, this is for the most part great advice from someone who clearly has a lot of first-hand experience. Much appreciated. Many thanks.

[@jmanswat2457]

As mechanics you get to understand that there are two camps for bicycle performance and maintenance- recreational and racing. They each have different goals and come with their own requirements in terms of parts, setup, and cost. Racing is so much more expensive and finicky.

[@xAudiolith]

@@jmanswat2457 I definitely agree with you but I would add to both categories a subcategory of wanting to go with trends. A lot of things out there get slapped on to new bikes that get marketed in a way that makes people think they need the newest tech to keep up when in reality the differences are marginal at best. I see this for both racing and recreational.

[@triggamusician]

​@@xAudiolith yh. I learned that last year. I always rode alloy (2013, middle of the road, Cube endurance bike) until i bought a carbon Cervelo, a bike that the pros used to win the tdf, like 15 yrs ago. But i barely improved on any of my times. I tt'd my way to work probably like 40 times, not even 1 km/h of difference in speed while being 1.5kg lighter. I did my favorite lap of about 75km a few times on both bikes and it wasn't smoother nor faster nor did i feel any difference at the end of the ride. I feel scammed. It's so disheartening. It's all in your legs and all those gains are all in your head.

[@radfordbean2164]

I have to disagree with them on Muck-Off and Cannondale. Never had a buildup with Muck-Off, and I own a Cannondale. Great bike. Though I must say those lefty forks look ridiculous.

[@crawdaddy270]

Muc-off lube: I use it without any issues of getting it off, however there’s a trick, if it’s one of the ceramic series lubes, just use soap and water. Degreaser doesn’t do a thing but dawn dish soap and warm water and it comes right off.

[@daredemontriple6]

I live in Bristol and I weigh 116kg - having a 52/36 instead of a single 46 or something has meant that I can really put the power on when I want to go fast and enjoy having a bike as nice as I do, but I can also actually slug it up the massive hills without dying half way up. I'm not exactly unfit but I am no pro - so I like having those really low ratios on hand when I need them, while still having the capability to sprint at full tilt every now and then even if only for 20 seconds :D Obviously it is another thing that can go wrong - but you have to ask questions about the way you take care of (or don't as the case may be) your bike if mech cables corroding is that serious of an issue. It's not exactly hard to make sure your bike is put away dry and kept dry while it is put away - at least I've never had any corrosion issues

[@m1mbz]

I live in Bristol too and love my front Mech, the only bike without a front mech I've ever enjoyed riding was a folding bike, but I would only ride that a couple of miles at most, if I wanted to go further it would stop being fun quite quickly and I'd quite like a lot more gears.

[@mrichards55]

52/36 and 11-34 is a great setup to put the power down on the flats and climb up almost anything.

[@seksualusis]

@@mrichards55 I am surprised how sufficient is 36/11-34 on my Decathlon Riverside 120. With Microshift switching it is just perfect in gear department. I'd say one-by is generally great, if set is right.

[@seksualusis]

@@m1mbz Obviously, you had no intimate relations with the single speed. It can blow one's mind how excellently single ratio can do. I have no big problems with gears, yet it is and feels messy on triple, simple and sufficient on _proper_ one-by, while exactly joy and sensation on single speed.

[@robt8042]

Zero issues with corroded cables, still have the same Sram RED front gear cable when I first put it on the groupset 11 years and 40,000kms later. Adjusted it once maybe twice.

[@dperreno]

What a fun video! I really enjoyed it! I'm going to disagree about the gear cables for just one reason - COST. Wireless setups are great - I have SRAM AXS on my new Trek - but it was EXPENSIVE! Even the newest "entry level" wireless setups are still 2x-3x the cost of a traditional entry level cable groupset. If the cost continues to fall in the next 5-10 years and the cost difference goes away or becomes negligible, then sure, it's the way to go. Yeah, I'm also keeping my front mech for now because my 62 year old butt needs those super low gears on my road bike.

[@boardmanross]

I don't think he meant wireless, just 1 chain ring at the front and 11 or 12sp at the back.

[@frankdatank2570]

I totally agree about needing a front Mech. Dude in the video is a just trendy and jumping on the 1x bandwagon. I live in a mountainous area, I use both rings equally. Not to mention if you've rode enough you know that the big ring feels different than the small ring, even if the gear inches are the same. So to say it unnecessary is foolish.

[@dperreno]

@@frankdatank2570 Yep, I moved from the plains to the mountains. Need that front mech more than ever!

[@phillybogana]

He’s in the industry so he doesn’t have to pay retail for anything. No wonder he loves wireless shifting 😂

[@akrotiri9634]

" Don't fall for the marketing " " Ditch the front derailleur "

[@NoBrakes23]

Some of us have been begging for viable 1x since the 80s. It isn't marketing when the companies FINALLY started listening to us a decade ago.

[@Cobalt985]

@@NoBrakes23 But 1x isn't objectively superior. It is more expensive and loses gearing range. My main bike is 1x (Deore 10 speed) but I honestly wish it was a 2x because I go to gear up after that top gear more than you'd think.

[@Urtlesquirt]

I recently switched from a compact Shimano 105 2x bike to a Sram Axs Xplr groupset which is 1x13. I compared and I'm not actually losing that many gears (especially the ones I care about) due to how they set up the smallest cogs to be quite incremental before bigger tooth gaps in the large cogs. It's been fine on the road - yes I spin out if I am trying to pump out power over 35MPH, but that doesn't really matter to me since I am not racing and can just tuck those descents. The gearing on climbs is actually a bit better with the extended range (despite there being a bigger jump between those cogs). Plus I just really enjoy the simplicity of a single shifter being dedicated to up or down, without worrying about shifting a front mech on more technical trails. I agree that it doesn't make sense yet for most racers as those little tooth gaps do matter in a lot of cases for keeping an ideal cadence on rolling terrain. But we did see quite a bit of 1x usage at Paris Roubaix this year! I doubt Sram would force that on riders if they didn't find it sufficient for the course.

[@dmrfnk]

@@Cobalt985 It's just the geared rider mentality. I'm having fun with a chill geared single speed road bike in a moderately hilly city. You can do longer/harder peak efforts in the uphills when you at times also get rest when reaching high enough cadence that you'll rather coast.

[@thethingwithit]

... just buy a mountain bike(?)

[@alexguiver815]

I love front mechs, allows you to ride a 26" wheel MTB everywhere. 3 x 8 running 22/32/44 and 11/32 gives everything from 40mph downhill on road tyres during winter fitness rides to sub-walking pace climbs on the trails. I can usually make them last a year or two and they come with a sticker on the cage which you just line up with the teeth on the largest chainring during installation. Subscribed though as I agree with everything else in this vid

[@pascalbruyere7108]

Same here except 3x9 but really 3x7 is all one needs. Sturdy, standard, cheap.

[@kofuchinoo]

I replaced my 11/32 cassette with a 11/42 one, it's kinda useful when you try to climb on rocky terrain with the granny-42t combo lmao. I really love my 3x8 setup man

[@stevetee4145]

I like a front mech. I tried a mates 1x gravel bike and found I was either spinning too fast or grinding. Most of the time I couldn’t find a comfortable gear ratio.

[@niceup1177]

Your mate should try a single speed bike next. He'll love it.

[@peterers3]

same

[@tinglydingle]

I was the same but I have actually converted fully to 1x now.

[@johndef5075]

Exactly

[@Rafskat]

I disagree, but that's a personal thing. On road bike - 2by is way to go I have build Turing bike for myself (cx/gravel kind of thing) and I have 48t front and 11-51 Shimano on the back.. and it's fine for me.. But I also ride on the velodrome and on the track bike outside.. so I don't mind big steps between gears

[@andyhodge9703]

I've been using Conti gatorskin tyres for over 5 years in all weather conditions and I have never ever had a problem with grip , and I ride twisty hilly roads in South Devon . Also on the rare occasion when I do get a puncture , again absolutely no problem getting tyre on or off , I'm a big fan of these tyres .

[@thelonesculler]

Regarding getting tyres on and off, that's because there are two versions of Gatorskins. The folding bead one is fine, goes on without much hassle, very straightforwards. The wire bead version is an absolute bastard of a tyre that is near impossible to get on and off and has led to multiple tyre levers of mine getting snapped whilst trying to get it on and off rims. Horrible to live with, should never have been created

[@andyhodge9703]

@@thelonesculler I've used both folding and wire bead and the folding is definitely easier to live with

[@Mengcharsway]

Eh they do give you a good deal of puncture protection but you are definitely giving up a good deal of grip, ride comfort, rolling resistance, and weight on Gatorskins---which is to say quite a lot. I used to use them before I knew better. Gp5000s or other top level tires will make your bike feel like new. If the roads are bad where you live I would suggest going tubeless.

[@jazemkrzysio]

Since more than 20 years I'm on Conti GP 4000. Once I've tried Gatorskin on my commuter when using it on often London's wet roads. It was horrible nightmare. Sometimes it was spinning without any grip when I've tried to suddenly accelerate.

[@sylvainbernaers]

very true, just lower some pressure as they can take it

[@billhulley]

Gradually ramping up the outrage, I was with Nic all the way up to front mechs 🤣 Definitely agree about Hunt wheels though. No end of problems with bearings, pulled and replaced with better quality ones but still wheel side bearing in the freehub repeatedly fell apart over winter. Looks like a preload tolerance thing.

[@billhulley]

@@twillyspanksyourcakes Zero Friction Cycling recently posted a video comparing transmission losses between 1x and 2x, the data is pretty conclusive, I think I’ll stick with 2x and keep the watts.

[@guytatler9769]

And cables. His beef with cables just seemed to require you to buy stainless ones and just learn how an adjuster works. I'd take that any day over stupid expensive repairs on electrics

[@guytatler9769]

@@twillyspanksyourcakes I suppose you're right, the margins are higher and so is parts/servicing costs. Personally you'll never get me to abandon a system with as much flexibility as mechanical drivetrains have. You can technically run Campag 10 speed shifters with a Suntour Vx derailleur and Shimano 8s cassette. With a bit of maths and ingenuity almost anything is possible with a mechanical setup.

[@MarcoFiat16]

Wheelside bearing in the freehub on Hunt wheels only lasts about 3000kms, but that's the only downside of these (they are strong, fast, solid, reliable in all weathers and most of all exceptionally well priced). Suggestion: buy a replacement freehub from them, it's 40€, so that when you start hearing that horrible metallic grinding sound signalling the end of the life of your bearing, you just swap freehubs easily and replace bearings with other ones with no rush

[@Cobalt985]

@@guytatler9769 Agreed. I am not a "road cyclist", though I ride on the road quite often. Mechanical will ALWAYS be all I use. I do not want to contribute all that shit to e-waste in a few years.

[@RelakS__]

I have a 3x9 bike. The other day I calctulated a bit and it turned out that this setup is about equivalent to a 1x14 because of the many similar/identical gear ratios. I think that a 2x12 is still have a place on the bikes. If you chose a cassette with less jumps between cogs, with a crankset where the small chainring is like 60% of the big chainring, you could have a "road" and a "terrain" set of speeds.

[@vfgjasminebaker]

Chainline

[@RUSSDsPhotography]

I will stick with 2X up front, for now. I like the wider range available if I go to the hills. Good info throughout the video, I appreciate y'alls efforts.

[@RamsayMacFarlane]

I'm with you - 2x for the gravel! The differential in speed makes it almost a necessity.... 1mph climbs, 40mph descents... RANGE! and Quick jump shifting™ using the front mech!

[@climatechangedoesntbargain9140]

I have a 3x and don't want to miss the range either. Tbh one tooth less on the back or one more on the front and I wouldn't make it up the hills when riding with luggage. I am even thinking on upgrading to a Casette with 36 instead of 32 teeth max

[@TheSteinbitt]

It’s just a lot of redundancy really, I’m going single up front next bike.

[@willemrm4033]

@@climatechangedoesntbargain9140 As long as the rear derailleur can handle it. I can only have a 30 t on my 3X. (with 28 - 39 - 48 in front)

[@radfordbean2164]

I wouldn't want a single chain ring on my road bike. Have some steep hills where I live that always require me dropping to the smaller chainring.

[@mrx1979ua]

I not only have a front mech on all my bikes, but actually a tripple. One-by has it's use but it has it's limitations as well

[@gur262]

I'm a forgetful person. I like double because if I'm down it goes up n vice versa. No guesswork what the levers gonna do. I wish it just came with one button that switches between the 2.

[@phililpb]

the front mech is normally very reliable. gear problems are always with the rear derailleur anyway

[@halfblood_drag0n]

dont go for 3x drivetrains, its just a marketing gimmek. any cyclist who knows what their talking about, mountain or road, will tell you the same

[@mrx1979ua]

That implies, that top manufacturers making tripples really know nothing about bikes, right? LOL@@halfblood_drag0n

[@Starlight_Akira]

​@halfblood_drag0n Agreed... 3x literally has no point at all. There's no purpose for the middle gear. Just has 2x, and use the cassette more. Also, I do hate 2x as well. Not that it's useless, it's definitely great, and can be hard to get as much range out of the cassette with a 2x chainring, but then all the problems that come with it, it's just not worth it.

[@bobvelting379]

I do like the front mech. My MTB is 1x and I'm happy with it, but on the road, I like to have those couple of extra gears in the top end without giving up range. On my touring rig, I could not do without. I live in a very flat area with a lot of wind so I need a large top-end gear to get places fast, but I do ride some steep stuff when I'm out on a multi-day ride with my tent and sleeping bag so I also need the range. I guess it depends on the situation you are riding in.

[@VirgilOvid]

I can't see it taking off either. The only way to get around the limited gear range is having a gigantic dinner plate sized cassette and not only does that make the jumps more extreme but it also means you're constantly cross chaining.2x has cleaner lines and smaller jumps, hard to give up that practicality.

[@Ropetable]

i have the e*thirteen 9-50t cassette in the rear, that gives amazing range. have a 30t on a mtb, 32 on xc bike and 38 on my gravel bike. up to 50km/h and down to snail speeds on 25°+ gradient climbs it leaves nothing to be desired for. and if im going 55 or 60km/h it is still acceptable.

[@woodywoodverchecker]

@@Ropetable I hope you mean 25%, not 25°.

[@bobvelting379]

@@Ropetable I did look into riding with those since they are awesome but so expensive!! I go through a chain every 9 months or so as is and tend to get 2 or 3 chains out of my cassettes before they are worn out. The whole 11-speed package (an SLX 11-42 cassette with 3 KMC chains) costs me roughly €140 for 2 years and 3 months of riding.

[@Ropetable]

@@woodywoodverchecker haha right, my mistake.

[@rcggijzen]

Hands off my front mech! No 1x for me. It means less gear changes in terrain with many short hills and keeps my chain better aligned on the rear sprocket. I even think 1x12 speed is a step back from 2x9 speed. 11s and 12s have crazy expensive chains and casettes and are more critical in set-up . My front mechs have given 0 issues over the past 25 years with 10-15k/year through summer and winter. Just regular maintenance.

[@ueberraschungstuete]

I like front mechs, too. Especially if you are driving with luggage. In this case even smaller hills will be hard to cycle. Especially if you only do it a fey times in a year. I really liked to switch to the lowest gear possible then. Maybe 2x front mech would be sufficient when having a 12x casette. But still I'd like to be able to switch.

[@marekkozub8957]

I have been riding road bikes for 24 years and I never had any problems with front mechs. I even didn't know such problems existed. Also, I have been using Gatorskin tires for few years and I really like them. I never had a puncture.

[@Bazza1968]

I think most of the FD "problems" he stated are just "neglect" issues!

[@Exgrmbl]

@@Bazza1968 I find it funny how a quarter turn on a barrel adjuster is supposed to be a big technical problem somehow.

[@discbrakefan]

Gatorskins suck. Have you actually tried a good tyre?

[@markxkovacic]

Gatorskins suck.

[@marekkozub8957]

@@discbrakefan Yes, but I've got tired of fixing punctures on the side of the road.

[@lionheart1916]

I went 1x last year on a gravel bike and has been great for me admittedly I'm a casual rider but find the range enough, so simplistic and clean looking to boot...

[@arifazhari7598]

Yo, the last one is the last straw. I agree with the most part but, front mech is where i personally drew the line. It's cheaper and easier to get wide range of gear for gravel using 2x10 groupset than using 1x12. Especially when Tiagra hydraulic/ grx 10 speed is pretty much basic* standard for gravel .

[@docmccoy9813]

He sounded like a professional mechanic until the last bit. It's funny he says "don't fall just for the marketing".

[@kornenator]

But can you actually get better gearing with 2x? For speed probably, but for climbing, you can get a 46-30 up front and an 11-34 in the back (or maybe a 11-36 tops, but that is not officially supported for Tiagra). At the same time it's not very hard to have a 10-46 or even 10-50 for 1x, combine that with a 40t or 42t up front, and it's very similar, but with better climbing gears. I switched from a Tiagra set to Apex1, and so far haven't found anything to complain about.

[@arifazhari7598]

@@kornenator i run tiagra using 48-32t combo with 11-36 without derailleur extender. No issues so far. I still got top speed and some climbing gear. Since it's hard to get GRX crank comes with 165mm length. Besides the jump on wide range 1x11 is too much for me. And oncd again the 10 speed components is far cheaper to replace and maintain.

[@jonathangapay1724]

I run a 46/30 up front with an 11-42 cassette. I just needed a longer chain, around 120 links to get it to work.

[@willoughbyliley9273]

and it will last longer and be cheaper to buy a new chain for

[@FuriousFilipino]

I started work as a professional bike mechanic as soon as I was legally able to work back in 1996 as a fresh high school graduate, and worked in the industry until 2010. I agree on most counts, but front derailleurs are not going away, for the fact that any other option that is not using a chain is just so much more inefficient, and the range of gears offered by huge jumps in chainring size is simply currently unmatched. Also as a former Fit Kit certified fitter, Speedplay pedals are easier to set up and use than any other road pedal, for both the consumer and bike fitter. No guessing on float as you dictate where you want it, set the fore/aft and lateral to compensate for wider narrower need for q-factor. With the other delta style cleats, the lateral adjustment will ultimately affect how much you can toe the cleat in/out.

[@chriseidam7319]

I worked on and off for 13 years in the bicycle business. I was the top manager in a shop chain that was in the top 100 of shops in the country according to BDS. I trained a lot of people to become mechanics. The president of the largest bicycle club in the United States was going around telling everybody that I was the best in the state. I had no personal relationship and I'd only see him come into my shop once. My point is I've seen a lot of silly opinions in the bicycle business in a lot of silly products. It seems like the products are more silly than ever. That's what burned me out on the business. I kept seeing new products launched that were garbage. Only to have enthusiasts with too much money and too few brains come rushing into the bike shop with a magazine in their hand saying, "Do you have this yet? do you have this yet?" Speedplay pedals are not one of those products. I am one of the original purchasers of speed play pedals and I love them. Especially since I suffered knee damage courtesy of a drunk driver in 1990. Speed play pedals are much more comfortable than SPD and egg beater pedals because they have completely free range of pivot where the others have spring loaded pivot. It's a huge difference if you have knee problems. And like you stated, installation is the easiest you can have. As far as the weight of the cleats, they're not particularly heavy so I don't understand that comment In the video. Additionally, speed play have by far the most corner clearance of any pedal made. When I was an avid cyclist doing 300 miles a week I practice taking corners while pedaling all the way through the corners. I could do a much deeper lean with Speedplay pedals once I got them. And as far as he's comments about triple cranks and double cranks and also about cables, I think he's dead wrong. I think those are ridiculous opinions. He's not going to enjoy using a single chainring with a limited rear gear range in the White mountains of New Hampshire. He's not going to want them in Fitchburg, Massachusetts. He's not going to want them and Aspen, Colorado. If he's having a problem with cables rusting up it means he's not building the bicycles improperly. On every bicycle that I assembled - and I have assembled thousands of bicycles - I always trimmed the housing and then put the lightest coating of white lithium grease on the cables and would take the cables out and pump the housing full of Teflon lubricant. I know from my own bicycles that the cables just won't rust if you do that. And they'll smoothly shift. From a business point of view, he should want his customers to come back to have their cables readjusted during the break-in. That's an opportunity for the shop to show its new customers the accessories that they should now realize would make their experience more enjoyable. Instead of them buying the bare minimum of accessories such as a water bottle and cage for perhaps $20 or $30 or $40, they'll eventually set themselves up with about $500-to-$1,000 worth of accessories that fit their needs and actually make their cycling experience much more pleasurable. That all really starts with the tune-up after a break-in of a new bicycle. And it's the skipping shifting because of stretch cables that will drive those new enthusiasts back to the shop to get the adjustment. If they don't see a problem and don't feel a problem they won't bring the bike back in for those adjustments. You know what I mean.

[@jazemkrzysio]

I 100% agree with you regarding Speedplays. Best pedals, longest lasting cleats, no hassle adjustment to ANY personal requirements, double side benefits - easy engadgement and double life.

[@joeuser2360]

The best part was him providing alternatives to the products he doesn't like.

[@DomRorke]

Feel the need to come to Hunt's defence here. I'm 77Kg and have multiple alloy and carbon Hunt wheels which I've ridden the hell out of both on the MTB (Trail Wides), racing CX (Carbon 30 tubulars), on gravel (4-Seasons), and on the road (Aerodynamasist Alloy), and apart from the V1 trailwide rims being a bit too easy to dent (nolonger an issue with the v2's), all these wheels have been faultless, and customer support and all communications with Hunt have been really positive. Love em!

[@PaulLangmead]

I fit my derailleurs 2 years ago and haven't touched them since other than trim. Haven't even changed the housings. Not sure what cables and housings he's using... 2x also makes it considerably easier to get your bike on the trainer.

[@larrykaatz5446]

I've ridden and worked on bikes for decades. Got no problem with gear cables (or brake cables, for road riding). I love Muc-Off lubes. The gunk that forms on my cogs and pulleys is no harder to clean than when I use other lubes. I love 1x drive trains but front mechs still have a reason to exist. Thanks for the fun video!

[@chriscalifano8842]

LOVE this video. As a bike mechanic of almost 20 years myself I agree with so much of this. Especially the Muc off chain lube. I can’t stand cleaning that stuff off people bikes.

[@maybeonlysometimes]

Is it a specific lube that does it or is it a certain type of terrain that it's so bad with? I was highly recommended muc off by the two mechanics at the shop when I was going to get something else and have personally never had a problem with it being bad to clean

[@alistairbuckle3450]

In my experience, it’s Muc-Off Wet Lube, the blue one, which is particularly awful. Even correctly applied, the first ride in wet conditions on roads and it retains all the grime and grit splashed up from the surface and dries into a black gunk, almost like a glue or sealant, coating chain and gears. You won’t have the same problem with Muc-Off Dry Lube, the yellow one, because it washes off in even the lightest of rain, leaving your chain to rust. I agree with the video: +1 for Fenwicks All Conditions.

[@pokiblue5870]

This is awkward…i switched from wd40 lube for bike to muc off dry or wet lube and tho i did a good choice lol i felt the lube was way better than the messy wd40

[@suedfrucht44]

This is golden!! Especially the bar tape insights is so valueble - since as a weekend warrior, you change it once, maybe twice a year if you even bother. And then you just get what looks good...

[@jcsrst]

As the owner of a Lefty fork on my gravel bike I can say with absolute certainty that you CAN take the brake caliper off to fix a flat. Also as a user of speedplay I disagree with the durability statement. I have ridden with them for 30 years and find that they've operated flawlessly; all iterations. I had to switch my last pair after 20K miles only because they changed the cleat set up. 1X on the gravel but my other bikes have front mechs and I love all the gear choice for the road.

[@anotheryoutuber_]

you also dont have to take off the wheel to change a flat on a lefty, they say he is a professional bike mechanic but...

[@jcsrst]

@@anotheryoutuber_ Its easier for me to take the wheel off😁

[@valmorell]

At 74 years of age, and having built and maintained my many many bikes thru my whole lifetime I totally concur with every word in this video.

[@MikeSmith-qu5ew]

What bike are you ridding now I am finding that my lighter bikes are more fun to ride as I get older but have a mike apple bike that is steel that rides like a dream… so really enjoy ridding still at 76

[@valmorell]

​@@MikeSmith-qu5ew Actually I just bought a Giant Contend SL2. Nice and upright riding position and takes fat tyres. Converted it to 1x of course. Semi internal cabling only. A real common sense bike.

[@MikeSmith-qu5ew]

David that is a good choice for sure,I am always trying to upgrade but need to more up right at 76 and need some warm weather I am in Wisconsin and the winters are long.

[@davidadams8342]

@@MikeSmith-qu5ew Hello, I met Mike Apple at a WI bike race in Madison- quick fix on my frame. Thanks for jogging my memory!

[@MikeSmith-qu5ew]

@@davidadams8342 David I have one apple bike its a perfect frame steel and the paint is perfect its a touring bike with a fit that is fast. I have not seen a bike as nice. Do you ride a lot still its tough for me with the traffic but still get out for rides.

[@johndef5075]

I never had much problem with front derailleurs. 2x10 is the best mtb setup. Just that nobody wants to admit it. I have same range with a $30 11-36 cassette as those stupid pizza pie $400 cassettes. And no 10 tooth jumps. Nice and tight😅

[@eddygortex]

Love front mechs . Quickest shift when racing when suddenly onto a hill ,shift from front big ring to small front ring when most are crunching up the rear sprockets.

[@Trancefreakeh]

I like front mechs, means you can get less gears at the back. Less gears at the back: wider and thus stronger chain. 8-9 speeds is fine, but yes, with front mech :). Also, I don't care about weight much ^^

[@a1white]

Smaller cassette on the back = less weight also, than a massive SRAM 48-10 (or whatever they do 😅)

[@michaelb9664]

I’ve never had a problem with Muc Off dry lube. It leaves no residue 🤷‍♂️ It does need applying very often though.

[@OllyKilo]

I'm guessing the front mech comment was there to stimulate social engagement. Much prefer quick access to a larger ratio when pulling away, rather than firing through the cassette. My Hunt wheels seem OK in the 8 months I've had them so far. The LBS did recommend Fulcrum but they didn't do a QR version.

[@supergreg72]

I agree 100% about the front mech : With over 12,000km of road riding on a “one-by”, I’m never installing a front mech again! As it turns out this guy is right and life really is better without a FD. But if you like yours, by all means keep it! 😄

[@zimboy777]

one by on my road bike (46t) has proven perfect in undulating countryside and it does lighten and simplify the drive train - have 3 sets of Hunt wheels used on road, Cx and gravel and had zero issues - agree with his view on Sram axs and thinking of going that way after issues with di2 battery cables - on tires Conti Grand Prix/4000/5000 have served me well in all seasons

[@rangersmith4652]

Having a front mech means I can be on the big ring and if I suddenly need to go into a much easier gear, I can drop onto the small ring in a heartbeat and away I go. You cannot do that with a 1X because to get an easier gear you have to go bigger, not smaller, and that's always more of a challenge for any shifting system. Besides that, 2X or even 3X allows for much smaller jumps between ratios while still allowing for a wide range overall. I'm sure 1X has its place -- like on my e-bike -- but to say the front mech no longer has a place? Nonsense. And cable shifting? It's worked just fine for decades and still does as long as it's properly adjusted, and keeping it adjusted is only tricky until a new cable fully "beds in" or whatever term you like. No charging of batteries, no fiddling with an app to achieve some supposed state of gear changing nirvana, just smooth, fast, reliable shifting _at a reasonable price_ to boot. Again, electronically-controlled shifting has its place, but to say nobody should still be using it? Nonsense.

[@robertmisiuk7137]

Use quality cables, and not a lot of adjusting is needed, unless you have a cheap group set.

[@radiocontrolled9181]

Exactly. I very rarely need to adjust my shifting with a click or two of the adjusting barrel - oh my what a workout !!! 😂😂 I love my 3x7

[@NoBrakes23]

Dropping the front ring is about the same as dropping three rings in the back. I don't know what ancient groupset you are using that doesn't allow you to do that.

[@rangersmith4652]

@@NoBrakes23 Read my post.

[@itisallinyourhead1709]

​@@NoBrakes23 Sure you can do it. Do it under load, and keep doing it, and I'll crack a beer, pull an arm chair, and keep watching you do that the whole day 😂.

[@paulawright6868]

I scored 3/10, gator skins, muc off and front mech. Hope it’s not a competition ❤️

[@jelle7224]

Gatorskins, Supacaz bar tape and front mech for me.

[@BrianMcDonald]

I use muc off lubes and have had no problems cleaning extremely neglected winter chains and cassettes in an ultrasonic cleaner, so it may be down to what is used to degrease.

[@discbrakefan]

@@BrianMcDonald The chain lubes have a poor reputation with people who test these things

[@djbayr9516]

Ultegra, infinity elites and all sorted

[@mattbarlow4995]

Hunt wheels are amazing, great quality and value. I have the trail wheels on my Enduro bike and they have taken a battering. The fact they send you out replacements no questions asked is just good customer service. I ordered the wrong freehub body and they sent me out a new one. Completely my mistake but means I wouldn’t hesitate to buy from them again.

[@erickaracsonyi4415]

I have 3 sets of hunts. They have been nothing but bomb-proof. I'd always recommend them.

[@mattbarlow4995]

@@erickaracsonyi4415 since this I’ve crashed and damaged the rim (still running with a tube but won’t seal tubeless). They have offered a discounted replacement or repair under their crash warranty scheme. Can’t fault them!

[@mohammadfahmy7976]

I like Nick's honesty! We need more of his rants please

[@Jacob_Dwyer]

Have been running gatorskins and their iterations in Seattle for years and years and one of the things I really like about them is that they are quite sticky in cold (not icy) and wet conditions. Let go of your brakes in the corners, watch out for wet leaves and steel.

[@Skooteh]

lefty is legit cool. Looks strange, performs well and honestly it's not meaningfully harder to replace a wheel than it is on bolted or standard thru-axle wheel (at least with the removeable disk mount, older ones are harder). Also, you can repair a flat without taking the wheel off.

[@sash2k2]

Exactly! New Leftys use a quick release system to remove the brake caliper with a single flip of a lever. Can't get easier than that.

[@n22pdf]

Totally agree love my lefty Oliver excellent

[@RB-xv4si]

Unwarranted criticism of Speedplays. If you use 4-hole bolt pattern shoes, you don’t need the heavy cleat adapters and the system ends up being one of the lightest. Also, they’re easily user serviceable and last forever. Haven’t had any issues with cleats. The problem is most users don’t follow Speedplay’s instructions, which are to lubricate the cleats every other ride. If you do that, you’ll be fine.

[@C5FlyingSquad]

I second the Gatorskins. I prefer fixing a puncture every now and then over waiting for skin abrasions to heal.

[@Johny_Halk]

LEFTY - If you get puncture on the road it is not neccessary to take the wheel off at all, simply take the tire off and fix the inner tube. Comment about necessity of taking brake caliper off is not right.

[@viktorlenart1125]

I swear by my Hunt wheels, have done over 10k miles on the road on them, still on original bearings/axles. Not much riding in the wet though. Got another pair for my mountain bike, looking forward to how they'll bear.

[@RikHelsen]

I had the nipple holes tearing after 1 year on my alu HUNTS

[@nathierfakier6380]

Same here, purely love my Hunts, also the envy of my mates as they just continues to roll compared to other bigger and expensive brands

[@RikHelsen]

@@nathierfakier6380 there is little magical about them, they need the same maintenance as any other brand. Mine broke after a year.

[@ianthomas3155]

Destroyed the hub on my Hunt rear wheel twice. They sent replacements without question but it shouldn’t happen.

[@roubaix3843]

Been riding a Specialized Roubaix for the last 4 years, previously despite having a professional bike fit still had some issues with shoulder/hands on rougher road surfaces - no more. Works for me, and so far no issues whatsoever with the Future Shock.

[@paulsymons562]

Agreed on the Skaterskins, a slid on one of those buggers a few years back cost me a broken wheel and very nearly a broken hip.

[@andyarchitect]

For off road use 1x is the way to go, but on tarmac a 2x is still the best setup. You can compensate for low speed gears with a wider range cassette... but the smallest cog on a cassette is still limited to 10 teeth. On most hybrid / gravel bikes running 1x the chainring is smaller than the big ring on a 2x so you are likely to spin out on a downhill. I guess you could fit a 10 to 51 mtb cassette on a road bike along with a large chainring but I haven't seen that yet 😅

[@EquinoxIV]

I got the Campagnolo Ekar 1x13 (40 and 42-9) and since I'm not a pro rider going way above 60 km/h I have not yet spun out. I tried :D

[@pigeonkillblah5373]

I use 3*9 on my winter/gravel/dirt bike and looking at prices online I can buy a front mech, chain, cassette and middle and 'big' (44T), all Shimano, ring for a price of a 12speed chain.

[@michaelhayward7572]

3 x is superb especially if using a friction shifter

[@rangersmith4652]

I converted a 3x9, V-brake hybrid to drop bars with long-pull drop bar brake levers and indexed bar-end shifters. That might seem weird to some people, but it works really well, and a set of 3x9 brifters would have cost about twice the price of all four separate levers.

[@vaughanbbrean71]

@@rangersmith4652 done exactly the same with a Giant Escape, works great and seems to give me everything a fancy expensive gravel bike offers at a fraction of the price....oh and it has carrier mounts too 🙂

[@rangersmith4652]

@@vaughanbbrean71 That's awesome. Mine is a 2001 Sirrus Comp. Barely handles 33mm tires, that's enough.

[@drbobjohnson812]

Having the right tool for the job is important, If you are not climbing steep hills and don't carry gear, a 1x will be just fine. I have a 1x. but when I'm climbing off road especially with gear, I'm going with at least a 2x. I even recently set up my gravel bike with a 3x. I am able to adjust my cables when I need to so it works for me. For others 1x is the way to go. Whatever gets you out riding and happy is all good.

[@ericpmoss]

I'm so glad to see "big" tire clearance as an issue -- for DECADES all the "with it" mechanic snobs were telling us how Fred it was. But I see the "with it" mechanics have substituted "1x is all you need" nonsense for skinny tires. Chain Line Matters!

[@natbarmore]

Oh, yeah, tire clearance is important. But I forget how tight the clearances are on road-racing bikes. My idea of “minimum sensible clearance” for a road bike is 38mm tires _plus fenders_ .

[@l.d.t.6327]

7:40 I don't have to go to a bike shop to re-do my cables every 6 weeks... I install them, ride them for a season and replace them. During the season, they shift crisply and reliable. Never had one braking, never had problems whatsoever.

[@JackSmith-os8nm]

this is actually a great video. Get this guy in front of a camera more often!

[@joep6644]

Please don’t tell him that 😂😂

[@steve24550]

Yes please.

[@LarsJackson]

Would love a video of some different bikes/brands you guys like both from a mechanics- and a bike fitters perspective. I feel too many brands are difficult to bikefit for a lot of people, and/or is hard to upgrade across different component-brands.

[@josh33172]

I think front mechs are still a thing especially w/ road and gravel. I do see the point of 1X, and I've been 1X since around 2006 or 2007, so when SRAM brought out the 1X group, I jumped on it! The narrow-wide and clutch derailleurs were a revolution! Supacaz tape can be stubborn, and I can see from a full-time mechanic's perspective, but even not working in a shop, I've probably wrapped over 150 bikes with that tape, and don't much mind wrapping it. However, the finish is well worth it, amazing tape that actually improves over time! I have some new Ergon Gravel on order so we'll see. I really like Ergon's products so I'm exited about their tape. I can't much disagree/critique any of the other stuff...the Press to threaded Wheel Mfg. BB is fantastic! Definitely an upgrade for compatible press-fits!

[@SvenJorgensen-m1b]

Team Front Mech Here. Both mountain biking and road. I have a wider gear range. Front mechs don't weigh much at all and mine have been working flawlessly on bikes for 20 years (with appropriate cleaning, lubrication, and a cable replacement now and then.) I think the primary advantage to a 1x drivetrain is on a full suspension mountain bike where things get crowded down by the bottom bracket (especially with wider tires being used.) But hey, the right answer is whatever bike is the most fun for you and gets you out riding. For me that is a 1992 Yeti Ultimate fully rigid on trails and a Merlin on the road. I will cheer for anyone and everyone out on a bike. Bikes are among the best human inventions of all time. Best return on investment of any money I have ever spent! Have fun this summer everyone!

[@edpilling4955]

I have numerous sets of Hunt wheels, on gravel and road. Been really good, odd freehub, but no worse than Mavic or others

[@ipodgolfer13]

I’m looking at picking up hunt wheels for gravel and my FIL uses them.

[@josephruby2981]

I had terrible knee pain after long rides - couldn't resolve it until I put speedplays on. They were expensive but they've lasted for years w/ minimal care. No more knee pain. Easy in and out.

[@joshhiggins4723]

In regards to speedplay pedals, he showed the older version but I absolutely love wahoos new version, never had an issue once setup and the cleats are fantastic when both walking or clipping in even after walking over dirt or mudddy roads.

[@razeemali2322]

Agree. Not sure why Speedplay was even part of a video on mechanic issues. I can (maybe) see the topic in a bike fit video but why for a mechanic?

[@ScottCervelo]

​@@razeemali2322 My own experience is that you have to keep pumping greasein them prevent bearing to axle play and then the grease will leak out during a ride all over your white dmt knit kicks. The cleats wear out really fast while being expensive and when worn out have a lot of lateral play in them which then can destroy you kneecaps over a longer period of use.

[@eckdavid2472]

I had them for years and loved them.

[@jaycahow4667]

I have the older Speedplay Zero pedals on seven bikes and have no issues other than the price of replacement cleats. At least in the Zeros unlike the even older X/2 models the cleat springs are the same on both pedals so I older need to buy cleats half as often.

[@magnusmalmborn8665]

Speedplays are easy to operate and feel nice. I'm not giving them up! The downside is that emergency release is by stripping the thread off the cleat bolts... (When I crashed the cleats pulled halfway of the shoes, so that the pedal body could rotate and slip between the locking lugs.)

[@RembricP]

I’m mostly a mountain biker and I van confirm that there are numerous advantages to not having a front mech. Usually you get single handed shifting, less cables if they are mechanical and less to think about when you are riding technical terrain. It also helps that I have 12 gears in the rear rather than whatever weird setups with 8 or 9 gears that some road bikes are using. 1x11-12 is the way to go.

[@charliecook6909]

Love how nick is the bike shop version or James 🤣 I do love a one buy roadie , I have a 3t definitely had no tyre clear , but does look pretty cool

[@paulmiddlemass6465]

Just bought some Bbb Gravel Ribbon, and it's great, seems to be stretchy without looking like it's stretched and is comfy, easy to wrap and grippy. Looks good too imo

[@munkeng]

For sudden change in terrain, front mech is faster than having to switch a few gears at the rear mech.

[@edudutra]

Any rear mech today can change at least 3 gears at time. Some 4 or even more.

[@climatechangedoesntbargain9140]

​@@edudutra at load?

[@edudutra]

@Climate Change doesn't bargain same load front mech can handle.

[@Durwood71]

If you find the terrain "suddenly" changing on you, then you're doing it wrong.

[@davidgromer3525]

Unless you’re shifting that rear with AXS.

[@kadooosh]

I'm a mechanic myself and use Muc-Off C3 Dry lube on my road bike... chains last a long time and stay clean(with proper care). I kinda like them... When you do climbing a front mech is needed... And gear cables, yes if you have the money go for electronic shifting. My di2 bike is great. But my 10s campy works fine as well.

[@fleurdelispens]

It's really hilly where I live, so I need a front mech to give me the range to go zoom zoom on the downhill and keep a comfy cadence on the uphill. Over the summer, I regularly climb a 2mi hill with an average gradient of 5%

[@meibing4912]

1x - and my Sunday ride is 100km 1.460 height meters (new Shimano Ultegra 12sp). Yes, more gears would be nice on the steepest sections (>8%), but it’s funny how quickly you adjust.

[@Mosely2007]

Nice video. I agree with you . 60 yrs on the road. I parked the expensive carbon bikes. I ride gravel on fat tires 45mm on Salsa 35 on DIVERGE. Wish the diverge fit wider. Found that paint sealant by Torgue makes mud fall off with a pump sprayer. Shimano spd pedals ìnexpensive and work. I want durable . I get miles off pavement. All cables redone every season. Bikes in my shop. Have them going back 90 yrs. 74 yrs old ride 1200 miles or more monthly. Never miss a day. Ride on

[@maxlloyd3740]

He is right on so many fronts! ( But I do favour Speedplay). I even agree with front mechs! I also work in the trade! 👍

[@underdog3771]

Same here. I really like speedplay and I have been using them for years. The new speedplay wahoo are far better than the previous generation. I also found the super durable.

[@maxlloyd3740]

@@twillyspanksyourcakes I do, been using a Cervelo with a 46 ring and a 10-36 Sram cassette and it works well!

[@Baldy.TheOnlyOne]

I have been riding the same Cannondale Jekyll Lefty for near on 24 years. I have NEVER had a problem fixing the font tire (or tyre) when it was flat.., and if I have to take of the front wheel, well it's just the brake caliper.., loosen the top bolt, remove the bottom one, pivot the caliper out of the way and then undue to wheel bolt. Easy as pie.

[@ellon118]

Nic is a legend. Keep him on the channel. Not quite as grump as James, but I'm sure with some training you will get him up there. Brilliant, keep the videos coming.

[@iskindersam7834]

I have "Time" pedals for about 10 years and they still as strong as the day I got them and comfortable amount of float. Great pedals! 👍🏼

[@bchearne]

I’ve broken a couple sets, but it’s an mtb, so they get some abuse

[@DanVee94]

Yeah that front mech is a hot take for sure. Only so much range you can garner from a single chain ring with a 12 speed cassette. If you're commuting exclusively on the bike and it's a flat city then sure, but otherwise I'll take the double range of gearing any day

[@njs461]

Do the math you’ll see a 1x has as much range as a wide range double.

[@DanVee94]

@@njs461 appreciate I've probably phrased that poorly. What I meant was the increments between the two ranges of high and low are limited by a single chain ring and 12 speed cassette. A 12 speed with the same high and low rear cassette as a 2x12 speed will not offer the same range of gear choices; half in fact if we "do the math" 😉

[@njs461]

@@DanVee94 just wait until that 1x20 drivetrain comes out!

[@tychoMX]

Agreed with most of these - but Lefty for, you got a puncture, you can fix it without taking the wheel off. Fringe benefit! Love front mechs except for super messy situations. 'Cross and MTB bikes? 1X. Other bikes, thank you very much, I like the extra flexibility, range and better gear spread. Again, for a 'cross bike or MTB, I'll consider the replacement cost for an electronic group part since these things get banged up and rarely survive the same amount as the rest of the groupset. I do love electronic sets for things that are less likely to get wrecked - have an old TT bike with 11 speed eTap, best idea ever. No cabling around idiotic bends! And love my Speedplay pedals... double side engagement, ease to set up mid-shoe (or at least further back on the shoe), very good float and adjustability- marginally more clearance if you ever strike a pedal in a crit. More fiddly than other pedals to setup sure, but in general I've had no durability issues. This is pre-Wahoo vintage so YMMV. I will buy old stock if I can get my hands on them..

[@editdroid99]

speedplay defense. Super eays to clip into. Also, I've had no pain issuses due to poor fitment. Just lucky I guess. I have had to take one appart to add more grease, other wise, love'em.

[@themeatpopsicle]

You either love them or hate them. No in-between :D

[@WeirdNumber1]

+1 for speedplays. Been using them for 15 years. Never had a problem and the new cleats with the rubber cover are certainly expensive but they last forever.

[@jaycahow4667]

@@WeirdNumber1 I always glue the rubber bottoms on or they tend to fall off when pushing off from a dead stop. I have found numerous ones out on the road so I know I am not the only one with the problem............

[@josephhargrove4319]

When I was building up my steel Heron Road frame back in 2004, I built it as a 1x10 and used a downtube shifter for the rear derailer (mech) so the brake levers would match. There was no terrain I rode that an 11-25 rear coupled with a 42 tooth front would not easily handle. And I did about 95% of my riding in the 14, 15, 16, and 17 tooth rear gears. I built my own wheels and I put an all carbon fork, a SRAM crankset, and Dura-Ace rear derailer and brakes on it. It weighed 17 pounds. I had to rebuild the wheels with stronger rims, and replace the fork with an aluminum/carbon fork, so now it weighs a bit over 18 pounds. I still ride it. richard -- "Modern industrialized states [are] resentful of a few cleverly arranged pounds of tubes and spokes. The cyclist creates everything from almost nothing, becoming the most energy-efficient of all moving animals and machines and, as such, has a disingenuous ability to challenge the entire value system of a society. Cyclists don't consume enough. They can propel themselves 1500 pollution-free miles on the energy equivalent of a gallon of petrol. The bicycle may be too cheap, too available, too healthy, too independent and too equitable for its own good. In an age of excess it is minimal and has the subversive potential to make people happy in an economy fuelled by consumer discontent." -Jim McGurn, 1994

I just switched from 1x to 2x, after a year of use. I was missing those grany-gears when doing 10% grades with a well loaded bike on a tour. I was running 38x12-42, and it was barely enough, and somewhat hard and/or expensive to source parts for. Now i run 2x8 36-22x11-34. Gives me equal high gear with a nice low one. I would prefer a crank with replaceable chainrings and a 38-22 setup, and those rings would also be easy to source. I use square taper BB, and road rim-brakes for the same reasons. Low-tech, easy to maintain :)

[@Saliamonas14]

22x36 FTW most people dont need x3 if they pop this cheap bad boy

[@mrmotomoto]

Front mechs make it easier/faster to jump/drop a larger gearing with a single shift. They’re great. Plus better chainline !

[@nicojar]

Everything he said is so right! Proprietary standards = ugh... Lefty = omg. Canyon expansion headset = bad idea (mine worked fine but I never touched it - it's plasticky, fragile, so no, really, no), tire clearance and weighing more than a pro = paramount, get bigger tires, it's so simple. Campa electronic shifting = pathetic. Non elastic wrap = so true, and I've tried all the brands he listed and he's oh so right about them. Specialized makes wonderful wrap too. Muc-off is such a bad brand of products and pretty much every other product is better. Front mech, well... for a bike you ride less than 20 hours, sure. For an adventure bike, not so sure. In more than a decade of riding, I never broke a front mech, I never had rusty cables (I change them), but fundamentally he's right: it's simply more potential liability and we have simpler alternatives. It's from the past if you have a 12 gear system, you don't need more - unless you're cycling on tarmac and climbing mountains, of course. And still - pretty sure you don't need 22 or 24 gears in reality. It's a comfort, but an almost useless comfort. So, hey, I'm not sure front mech is over and should be banned... but it's definitely from the past. NOW, on an adventure bike... electronic shifting is a liability too. Low temperatures in the mountains, high temperatures in hot areas, and, above all... 20h battery time. Seriously. You're already struggling to power your lights, and recharge your phone and your gps, and now you've got to carry a spare battery, another set of cables, a charger, and use your dynamo power FOR THIS? On an adventure bike, what you need is LESS electronic gear, not more. I ride my fixed gear daily in a European capital city, and believe me: Conti Gatorskins are only great if you like skidding, because it packs lots of rubber where it matters. Otherwise - forget about it. It's heavy and not particularly resistant compared to their GP5000 (better rubber, thin AND resistant, just take it easy on the skid patch, 48/17 all the way). And slippery indeed.

[@neilrobinson7965]

Never really had any problems with front mechs or mechanical shifting/cable issues.

[@BrianMcDonald]

I don't think I've had any major problems aside from the initial effort to get things right at the start. When you have new cables and everything is installed properly it feels like a dream, so the only real downside is that it just doesn't feel as nice when the cables stretch and if you are sensitive to feel you'll be constantly tweaking them or potentially servicing more which isn't always fun.

[@AnvilAirsoftTV]

@@BrianMcDonald last time I adjusted my front mech cable was 2020. 10,000km a year. Sorted.

[@BrianMcDonald]

@@AnvilAirsoftTV are your cables external or partially/fully through the frame?

[@paul_rider]

Definitely need a front mech if you live somewhere hilly but also like riding fast. 11-32 50/34 is my sweet spot.

[@raoulkoopman9408]

As a non-pro, 1x is the way to go. An 11 speed cassette at the back assures I have the range of gears and I actually prefer a the jump between gears. With 2x I was usually shifting about 2 gears at a time anyway, especially when on grave. Good video!

[@_asuryan3072]

I've never had any problems with muc off lubes, key secret is not putting much on and making sure you towel the excess off. That is what causes the blackening on your drive train. I'm sure you already know this and there have hopefully been comments on such.

[@trevorcarlson6134]

i also never had this problem. is the one hes reconmmending better though or is he just sponsored by them or something. i also dont see the dry lube working very well. the wet lube seems good to my understanding. never had a problem with it getting stuck on or whatever.

[@maniamuse1319]

I commuted for years on Gatorskins in all weathers and yes you are completely correct in saying that they have zero grip in the wet. I could actually get the rear wheel to slip when pulling away from a standing start in the rain even when seated. They were also as you mentioned a right pain to get on and off if you ever did get a puncture or wanted to to replace one.

[@ThePalestinians8myCat]

Got rid of my front mech years ago. Swapped it all out for a shimano XT 1x set up. Mtb have been doing it for years and it works fine. Also got rid of drop bars, stupid things are a pain in the arse. Flat bar, 1x, disc brakes and 30cc tyres. I ain’t racing and just want a good bike.

[@alefone2]

Well put together. Agree with everything he said, especially advantage of Sram electronic shifting. I was a Shimano guy for ever.....till I tried Sram. Simple does it for me.... Great job boys:)

[@tedshred6581]

Appreciate the tips, especially on Cannondale. I have a Cannondale MTB (Jekyll) and noticed that they've hopefully given up on the Ai dishing. It;s been a great bike, but ended up buying a new wheeleet, so I'd have the OEM's as a backup in case of a crash that bricked a wheel. If I go on a road trip have to make sure I have the backup b/c no LBS is likely to have a compatible wheel in stock. Replacing chainrings or BB's is an adventure in trying to find who has the right offset. Cannondale's proprietary setups were a case of sound engineering overcoming common sense! I like having no front mech, but wish the 12-sped cassette didn't cost 3x-4x the cost of the 9spd cassette on my commuter bike that's a 3x9.

[@Driver8takeabreak]

Agree completely on 1X. It honestly takes away a lot of subconscious mental energy to not have a front mech. So easy to just either go up or down the cassette, and that's it. On top of having one less thing to adjust or break. Today's cassettes are dynamic enough to cover 95%+ of amateur riders. Been riding 1X on a cross bike that I use as my road bike for the last 4 years and I don't miss the front mech at all.

[@BalintHamvas]

This. I loved the idea of 1x when SRAM came out with it, have been riding 1x since 2017. I just love that when the the road turns up (or down), you don't have to try to find the optimal moment to change to the small chainring - you just shift slowly up (or down) as needed. I used to ride 42 and 36-11, I'm older and less fit now, so I ride 40 and 36-10 setup. Has to be said, I'm a sh*t descender, so I'd stop pedalling anyway when the 40-10 starts to spin out...

[@andrewl.3460]

I’m glad to have a front mech, I live in the mountains. Most things have a place. Choice is important.

[@kateford6016]

Been using Muc off wet lube and dry lube for years, never ever had an issue, no idea what people are doing to make it go like concrete!?

[@OpheliaNL]

Same! Been using the muc-off e-bike lube and never had any issues

[@bernardlinde]

With you, Kate! No idea what people do to get it like that. 🤯

[@OpheliaNL]

@@bernardlinde Perhaps they apply way too much, don't get rid of the access, and then don't use their bikes very often? It's something that could happen with certain dry lubes since these tend to be wax based.

[@robertchandler587]

GREAT VIDEO!! Especially helpful for us consumers wanting to avoid hassle and extra costs associated with some ‘duff’ products. I blame the marketing…

[@nascarisawesome5018]

Mountain Bikes don't need Front Mechs. As a mechanic myself, I agree. Road bikes or gravel, on the other hand, most do need that little more in the front.

[@danharvey3096]

As a MTBer who also roadbikes, & got particularly into roadbiking while rehabbing a MTB induced PCL injury lol.. I can agree with the front mech thing.. Having just a rear mech means being able to have a narrow-wide chainring which means no slipped chains.. I've had slipped chains on my roadbike, since I got a narrow-wide chainring on my Downhill MTB I never get slipped chains.. While I bike on both flat & a 400m climb regularly, a front chainring in a size in between my 2 chainrings would be sufficient for both my riding environments, even with a 10 speed cassette that I'm currently running. A 12 speed would be luxury..

[@teunluijbregts2533]

Found myself agreeing with every-single-gripe Nick had 😢😮 …except for cables on the rear derailleur. Preferably Campagnolo. And if it’s a road bike then 2x with cables would be acceptable provided the bike is custom steel 😂 👍👍👍

[@guytatler9769]

I'm in complete agreement, recently swapped a mechanical Campag 11 speed on the lower end for Chorus EPS. Rear derailleur issues within 2 months and back to mechanical. Bike stayed steel throughout

[@ericsaari2901]

@@guytatler9769 What didn't you like about EPS? I have always loved the feel of mechanical Campagnolo. Nothing matches it. I'm so tempted to try electronic, but I suspect I'd miss the really tactile feel of a shift.

[@guytatler9769]

@@ericsaari2901 I initially liked the Chorus EPS and didn't particularly miss the feel of the mechanical shift as it was rather similar. It's a really lovely groupset to use. However you don't want to own it, the experience of dealing with and owning EPS is the most, nerve racking anxiety inducing experiences I've ever had with bike parts, and I've owned several bikes infamous for catastrophic failure. Wires don't disconnect at the battery and components so if you damage one, it's a whole new component. Information on repairs from Campagnolo is scarce and unhelpful, often just advising replacing whole units at exorbitant cost. Frankly the fear of these huge bills isn't justified by significantly improved performance, it was nice and better than the mechanical stuff, don't get me wrong. But it wasn't a massive, game changing leap forward from the mechanical shifting and definitely not worth the insane running costs.

[@ericsaari2901]

@@guytatler9769 Thanks for sharing your experience with it! Sorry for the troubles.

[@swordmonkey6635]

I love my Speedplay pedals. I get the steep "learning curve" of them from other more conventional pedals, but once you become more experienced as a rider and do research, the options Speedplay give far outrank the downsides.

[@davidklotz11]

I used to have 2x and eventually changed to 1x. Not only is it more pleasant to deal with and maintain, I had overall faster times on the same routes.

[@paulallder7889]

I agree I changed to 1x and have never looked back on my now 1x10 105 road bike I have never had the issue of being in the wrong gear and I never EVER use the granny ring 😊

[@robertmisiuk7137]

Riding my road bike on roads, it is nice to be able to drop the front ring to the small ring at a light, and then once going again, shift back to the big ring. No need to shift multiple times trying to find the gear I was in. Also great on the mtn bike. When you don't have the momentum to get up a hill, drop the front ring and you are good to go.

[@EnjoyTheRideMTB]

Not sure I agree with you about muc-off. Been using the c3 dry lube for mtb, and the wet lube for commuting, best lubes I ever tested! The dry lube doesn’t catch dust, the chain does get dry after 100/150km depending on how much lube you put on in the first place. If it isn’t too much dirty, you can put some more lubricant to run another 100 miles before cleaning your chain, and it’s quite easy to clean off with the muc off degreaser, and I think even plain water could do. For the wet lube, again a great product, I would never use it for mtb as it catches dust way too easily, but for commuting on roads and a bit of fire roads, it’s perfect! I can easily run 200km with a smooth and clean chain, I often even go past 400km even though it can get a bit gritty past the 200km mark. It is true that the chain gets kinda sticky as you get closer to the 400 or past them, but it still lubricates and protects the chain from the elements. When you reach that point, just clean your transmission with muc-off degreaser, put on some fresh lube and you’re ready for another 400km! There may be better long-lasting lubricants around in terms of durability, but what I like with muc-off is their biodegradability along with their scents!. I think the worse thing to put on your chain is wax, it catches as much dust as a wet lube and it’s even harder to clean so no thanks.

[@mojo3398]

agree. i use the "dry lube" on the mtb in all conditions. i have to use it every 50-100 km but the drive train is really easy to clean. just rub it off with a dry brush or tooth brush in 5 min and apply new lube. i replace the chain every 1000ish km but the 12x cassette holds since 5000km now.