Frankenstein Aurora Monster Model Build

This is a built up and painted Aurora Frankenstein based on Boris Karloff from the classic Universal Monsters.
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Thank you :)

[@aliensoup2420]

Nice paint job. I made this as a kid in the 60's, and I mostly had a few colors of glossy paint, which was horrible. It was way to shiny, and never dry, always sticky to the touch. I had most of the Universal Monster models. Great fun.

[@truekaliban4674]

Frankie was the first of 13 Aurora monsters, relased in 1961. He stayed in production until the late '60s, when he was released, with modified packaging, as part of the "Frightening Lightening" series. Later, a glow version was released in a square, instead of oblong, box. After the sale of Aurora, the kit was produced by Monogram and, if memory serves, Revell. I'm not sure about this last. More recently, Polar Lights issued their own release. I built the model in 1963, using the standard paints that were around at the time. It amazes me how many nearly identical vintage builds of the kit I've seen. There weren't too many options for the modeler, back then.

[@harley6431]

Greetings. Thank you for this. I recently retired. I still have all of my original Aurora kits from the sixties. Of course they were all built and painted by a 9/10 year old. I have decided to recondition them as best I can now with proper painting etc. My first will be the Frankenstein you have pictured here. Much appreciated.

[@JokerLaugh]

Good luck with your build Ed :)

[@TheYjmfan]

Nice job I had one of these, also Dracula ,wolfman, phantom of the opera, the mummy, dr. Jekyl , the creature, King Kong, the forgotten prisoner, had a room full of them 😁

[@JokerLaugh]

Gotta love the classics Colin :)

[@wildevixen7753]

That room should have a sign saying "Enter if you dare."

[@wildevixen7753]

@@JokerLaugh And don't forget the superheroes.

[@Jeff-cv4qn]

Like the idea of shading the base , Im gonna do that on my kit thanks!

[@madkittyjoey70]

Looks amazing! :)

[@blairbunker]

Built Mine in THE SIXTIES!!!!! GREAT FUN for an 10 year old.....

[@Bronxbombers161]

When I was 7-years old my dad built this for me. Same model except the face and hands were glowing-in the dark back then. I recently bouh=ght the re-issue for his memory when he built it for me back in 1969. Can you please send me the paints that you used and would appreciate you talking me through the process. I was badly injured in Iraq and have nerve damage issues with my right arm / hand so it will be a challenge. I look forward to your reply. Cheers

[@JokerLaugh]

Hello Billiy, thank you for the kind words. Unfortunately I can not remember the actual names of the colours I used on this build. I think I remember the darker greys was called Flintstone Grey and the lighter greys was Medow Mushroom Grey. To be honest, As long as you grey prime the model first and paint the kit up with regular acrylic paints, you can't go wrong.

[@kainnosgoth7336]

Nice job, man! I recently re-conditioned my Polar Lights Aurora Frankenstein re-issue. As far as your info on Aurora, you are indeed right, the original kit was released in the 60's by Aurora. In the 70's, Aurora burned down (sometime in 1977 if I recall correctly) and the first company to re-issue them post disaster was Monogram-Revell, in the form of "Illuminators" which were flourescent kits that just BEGGED you to paint over them! Later around 1998, Polar Lights re-issued all of the Aurora Monsters (save for Mr. Hyde) and the kits can still be found, but distribution is somewhat scattershot.

[@JokerLaugh]

Many thanks for the brilliant info!

[@kainnosgoth7336]

Always glad to spread the history of the greatest model company in the world! The box art was around 95% of the sell, and I din't have any of the original boxes, but the Polar Lights boxes, I saved this time around. The artwork is so classic. Little historical note-the artist for The Forgotten Prisoner. Mort Kunstler, artist for The Forgotten Prisoner, went on to become a VERY successful artist with his Civil War themed works. Who'd have thought that the man who did the art for our favorite skeleton would become such a well-known artist? Awesome stuff, man!

[@wildevixen7753]

Thank goodness the moulds survived.

[@wildevixen7753]

​@@JokerLaugh Pun intended? I never understood the point of luminous versions of these kits, and in my circles we decided they were just a gimmick to attract kids, who of course should not be allowed near models like this in the first place, and as we ourselves were still in school, the irony was obviously lost on us, but in fact if the overpainting is done thinly enough, the luminosity will still show through in a more subdued form, and that can produce some interesting effects.

[@wildevixen7753]

Also there was the Moebius range of re-issues, with new box artwork and an oval logo that was reminiscent of Aurora's. Do we know where this range sits in the timeline?

[@JosephThomas-el3ze]

nice model he looks like the incredible hulk than frankinstie

[@JokerLaugh]

Yeah, I don't think they could use Karloff's likeness so they had to make a generic style Frankie.

[@mickphillips6735]

Hi which clay putty do you use for hiding nasty joins ect thanks Mick

[@JokerLaugh]

The best putty clay I have found is Aves Apoxie modelling clay. You can add a small piece in the seam and then wet the clay with a small brush and it will fill out lovely. Other modellers also swear by Milliput but I have never got around to trying it myself.

[@wildevixen7753]

​@@JokerLaugh If your putty is not prone to shrinkage, stay with it. I tried Milliput but I don't like it.The two components have to be kneaded together for seven minutes and it's sticky, so it is not worth the hassle, and the kindest thing I can say about the final results is that they are nothing special. My filler of choice for many years is a most unlikely product called Repair Metal For Good, by Unibond. It is intended for motor body filling and similar heavy-duty work, so it sounds totally unsuitable for the intricate details I use it for, but it is a delight to work with, on any material. Sometimes I mix a quantity no bigger than a pin head, and the results are exquisite invisible joints, beautifully smooth with no sanding, and no shrinkage ever. Try doing that with Milliput. Unibond apparently no longer make it, at least not under the same name, so I have to find a replacement before my current stock runs out. Any information appreciated!.