Freelander1 TD4 Typical Faults & Preview of Fixing Videos to Come.

Freelander 1 TD4 - A Preview of what’s to come fixing the faults on this 14 year old car. These are all typical faults that occur at this age and hence give a guide of what to look at if your thinking of buying one.
This car hasn’t been well looked after, with a few botched attempts at repairing. This video is just a taste of what’s to come, with a lot of videos showing how all the faults are fixed. See the list below.
The freelander is not a bad car. Actually I quite like it. It was the best selling small SUV in Europe for many years. But it does have a few things that wear out, like the door locks and electric windows. These are similar parts to a lot of cars, probably made by Bosch or similar, rather than Landrover itself. Similarly problems with the Diesel engine can be attributed to BMW as it’s that same engine used in the 320d. Typical diesel issues may be MAF failure (Bosch again), diesel fuel pumps, EGR valve clogging up and crackcase filter clogging causing problems. For less complication and more enjoyment I would pick a petrol. The V6 is a nice engine and reliable. The K4 just mainly needs the HG upgrading, see kzbin.info/www/bejne/l37Gm5ZpgdKArJI
Here is a playlist of videos that are related to, or on, this Freelander::
kzbin.info/aero/PLQVqjk4n1wANtCZaRcYzojUz5YHJD7Z3y
The service kit from ebay UK: ebay.us/PocYh8
ebay USA: ebay.us/grdf4c
The new PIERBURGH MAF and tuning box is here: ebay.to/2UkEaIv
A Haynes workshop manual can usually be found cheap on ebay UK: ebay.us/nJZ3K9
Rubber disposible gloves are also useful, here's the links for
eBay USA: ebay.us/GGqmTJ
eBay UK: ebay.us/cE1BHK
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3aikbl8
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3cdwjpD
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/2Q0VHZm
Amazon Australia: amzn.to/2QlUawX
Videos of fixes on this Freelander TD4:
Central locking door lock fixes: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipSXd6mdbqyKj7s
Floppy door mirror fix: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqfJmoeIbbNjraM
Rear tailgate window fix: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rn20gK2CltZoo9k
Crankcase filter upgrade to cut smoke: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fILai6WgfLqBY9E
Changing the LP fuel pump and fuel filter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIGrhpWdd6Z5las
Fixing air leaks on corroded alloys: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIrGgaunaKtpl5Y
How to clean the intercooler to cut smoke: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i3O6maSbfZWVpbs
Fixing the fuel burning heater (aux heater): kzbin.info/www/bejne/eHe5op18jtiJaK8
Fixing the clutch, low bite point: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aomboHSIaMaMhKM
Fixing the HP fuel pump regulator: kzbin.info/www/bejne/omHOdpitZZqJrZI
Removing, stripping, cleaning injectors: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqKToqNnpqmnmM0
Fixing electric window cable, done on this car: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKW0ZmOYatF7pdU
Fixing the engine temperature and heater being too cold: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYKmdameltilnpo
Fixing a dent on a quarter panel: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKi4eGChra18gKc
Testing the MAP sensor: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hn2VYWOvf91sj6c
A full service: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYfGl3-Gg7ycis0
Pressure testing the turbo hoses / intercooler: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iovaqmiul6aie7M
Testing and stripping Turbo Boost Control solenoid: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lYS1qqGJip2LoM0
Simple Turbo boost controller: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bHK6gK18btpkedE
Fixing smoke wrap up: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXupeamBfqx7f6M
Other Freelander videos:
Fitting a low coolant alarm: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4K7lH5mo8uSg7c
Fixing the SRS warning light: kzbin.info/www/bejne/apzEoZKmg9GNfqs
Making the petrol k-series engine reliable: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l37Gm5ZpgdKArJI
How to fix & monitor VIS motors on the 2.5 V6 engine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lWWxf6ukrbConas
Starter motor fix (generic Bosch): kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKXYfnaeaM58otk
Fixing a torn car seat (generic): kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4OniYiphKlpiaM
Clutch slave cylinder fix on petrol k-series cars: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGnXY5esfrVmmbs
How to fix the rear door electric window: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eHzEmpSGg9KHsNk
How to change the 2.6 V6 (KV6) engine cambelts, cheaply: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6vXhaePqKt5ZrM
How to preserve your Freelander: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iH7Qcnx8jr-YmtE
Windscreen wiper fix: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oGLMh6Osm81ob9E
Replacing worn gear knob kzbin.info/www/bejne/rInOaHSBbZJ1b5Y
Key fob fix: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fomrd6eIeq52lbM
Warning lights: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lZO3hol9hJhsl7s
Fitting rock sliders: kzbin.info/www/bejne/joHYYX9nfbNkh7s
Brake pads change, front: kzbin.info/www/bejne/maO2nmp8f5xoqcU
Installing a modern coolant level warning: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJjcqmCaqJyhhNk
Subscribe to the channel for similar DIY, fixing stuff:
kzbin.info
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The video is about my personal opinion and experience no responsibility is accepted for any perceived recommendation for or against a product or feature nor any consequential damage or harm. You accept by watching this video that you accept any responsibility for any subsequent actions or decisions that you take.
Note on copyright: This video was created using Apple iMovie and as such any music or video content is fully licensed by their terms and conditions for free use.

[@justincredible4536]

Your videos have saved me so much money. Thank you! I have a facelift HSE auto which is now fully serviced. Crank case filter upgrade and turbo breather changed.

[@comeinhandynow]

Good to know, thanks.

[@vezeris]

Mine is coming tomorrow. I can't wait!

[@JAMESSUPER1969]

Great 👍 video. Thank you for taking the time to do so. I love my Freelander Td4, enjoy to drive more than my electric car. All the best, Tony.

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks. Good to hear.

[@benhealy7155]

I’ve got a project fl1 that is bellowing really rich thick smoke, so I’m working my way through your fixes. When I bought it it had no rear exhaust so we didn’t notice it, added on a back box and it’s crazy how much smoke there is. No codes, injectors done, hp regulator seals, still lots of smoke so on to the intercooler as I’ve noticed a lot of oil after cleaning out the air intake/pipes. Here’s to hoping the turbo isn’t gone as the crank filter was gross, and fitting the vortex hasn’t fixed the issue. Thanks for your videos, really helpful!

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers and good luck fixing it.

[@markhawthorne6683]

Just found your video. Thank you for posting this and I look forward very much to the next ones. I have just bought a 56 facelift model almost identical to this but the 3 door same colour. I absolutely love it. Smashing car and so comfortable to drive. And surprisingly quick too. The popularity of these is picking up and prices holding. So I think if you have one they are worth holding onto now . I will not part with mine

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks. I have also bought a 3 door Freelander recently having sold the one in the video. I do also like them. Hopefully some videos to come on my latest project car, after I finish editing the ones remaining on the previous car.

[@markhawthorne6683]

comeinhandynow thanks for the reply. Wow 3 door the same. I look forward to those videos. I have not taken my roof off yet. I will leave it until the change of weather . I have the side steps and headlight grills ready for a free weekend. Like I said previously. I am very please with it and excited about really getting to grips with tinkering . 👍👏👏

[@comeinhandynow]

@@markhawthorne6683 They are great for tinkering with, all very accessible and easy to get parts. The current Freelander project I bought is a half started conversion of a 1.8 petrol to a turbo 1.8. Some interesting challenges as it’s not been done very well by the previous owner. All I’ve done so far is rust proof it, fit a tow bar and start fitting the Ford Focus ST exhaust system and cat that came with it. Too cold outside and too many other jobs to do. I hope you enjoy yours.

[@deebefree]

Really useful, thank you.

[@comeinhandynow]

Glad it was helpful!

[@AliMackMechanical]

Really good video mate Informative.

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers.

[@gregorrobertson4874]

Thanks - useful video. I’ve had mine for 15 years - 157k mls You didn’t mention clutch and DMF Costly repair (around £1000 in a decent garage) but as these are future classics and such super cars - worth doing.

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks. I didn’t consider clutches as things that fail or wear out more than other cars. Maybe the DMF part of it and the rubber dampener part of the pulley at the other end of the crank occasionally wear out but I’m unsure whether it is more of a problem than other cars with the the same stuff.

[@letmeoffthisplanet6208]

Mines an 05 plate with around 175000 on the clock,so far had a new fuel pump ( word of warning,buy a cheap one at your peril,i sat for three hours for a wrecker after if packed in five miles away from home after using an ebay one ),drop links were done,serviced,rear drums and shoes and the usual propshaft groans,propshafts coming off anyway for a rebuild..All in all they're one hell of a comfortable motor on and off road.

[@comeinhandynow]

Agreed.

[@SuperSzlachcic]

I've got same year freelander all repairs which I done for last 3-4 years;new battery,new brakes, pulley, magnetic Aircon clutch, window strings,fitted new power steering pipe on power steering rack,Springs on the back all 4 tyres(they have to be all the same with same pressure) disconnecting prop shaft(bearings gone) ,new tailgate handle,new clutch kit and recently clutch slave cylinder.Still to do;fix the Aircon leak,heated windscreen stop working,rear wiper motor gone,o/side prop shaft washer and track rods need to be replaced every 7-9months

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks for your input. Quite a few common things there for these now quite old cars. Some common to other old cars of the same age. Fortunately on the Freelander they are quite easy and cheap to fix. A couple of things to add, from my experience: Try and source good quality (LR) track rod ends as the very cheap (Chinese?) ones are rubbish quality and don't last. Problems with the clutch slave cylinder are often the mounting bracket or air in the system. (see my other videos Google “comeinhandynow clutch”)

[@g7eit]

I have an 02 pre facelift model which is also TD4. I call her Christine because she has a mind of her own. Pay her attention and she’s perfect but if you don’t, you’re in for it. Random warnings, 3 amigos, F4 errors and i left her parked at my mates place for 7 hours. She hated that and wouldn’t start for 5 minutes. It’s a Land Rover thing lol

[@comeinhandynow]

They can be very reliable if things are fixed right when they wear out. They have a lot less faults and are easier/cheaper to fix than BMW cars. The biggest problem with this TD4 is the BMW engine. It can be fixed but there are things that wear out and clog up. Doesn’t seem to stop BMW being successful though.

[@robertbenson1710]

Hi there, Your videos, especially the one on the injectors was extremely helpful to me during the last lockdown. Q Have you ever changed the rear side door drop glass seals on a 5 door? The fronts are easy enough, but I can't find any information on the 5 door rears. Any advice would be immensely appreciated.

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks. No I haven’t changed those, but if i do I’ll let you know.

[@roland20002000]

I've had 3 of these now and love them. They are far from perfect but pretty cheap to fix and really pleasant to drive. The thing about testing the viscous unit with the back wheel is total BS that goes around the internet.

[@comeinhandynow]

Agree on the car, but why do you think the common VCU test for sieze up is not valid?

[@roland20002000]

@@comeinhandynow Ok I'm not great with words but I will do my best. So as I'm sure you know the VCU has a liquid in it that goes hard and locks the front and back halves of the prop shaft together when friction/pressure causes the liquid to heat up. That liquid never gets to a point where it hardens under anywhere near normal temperatures or pressure. What happens as the liquid ages is the conditions at which it hardens become not as intense and it will lockup the prop shaft before it needs to. They should be changed at 30,000 miles but yo can realistically get 70,000. First you will get the tyres wearing quickly and then when they get really bad you will notice turning around tight corners one of the rear wheels will skip. It will lockup and you can feel a kind of small quickly repeating skipping as the wheel does not rotate and is instead dragged around the corner. You will not be able to simulate this with out the VCU being under the immense strain and torque that the prop shaft is under when turning a tight corner.

[@comeinhandynow]

@@roland20002000 It is not heat in the vcu fluid that hardens the fluid and locks the vcu, as I understand it, the silicon oil in the vcu, polydimethlydisiloxone, is a non-Newtonian fluid (like cornflour and water if you have even played with that) that hardens when moved quickly and is softer when given more time to move. With age the oil gets stiffer so the viscosity to slow movement goes up. That is what you can measure with a vcu test with one wheel and a timed weight drop test with a torque bar. You are not testing that it does lock up, you are testing that it slips enough to allow slow movement. So that test is valid.

[@andyphillips7435]

Excellent video. Have you ever replaced the drivers door top rubber seal? Ours (53) is bumpy with inner corrosion.

[@comeinhandynow]

No not yet but mine is the same, might get round to it one day. Thanks by the way.

[@miked4027]

Really informative and well put together vlog. Incidentally, where did you order your gear knob from? I'm looking for a black, manual leather gear knob for my Freelander and can't seem to find one available anywhere.

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks, see this other video, buying links are in the video description of it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rInOaHSBbZJ1b5Y

[@craigdavidson2278]

I have the 2004 1.8I K-Series. Picked out up 8 years ago, the previous owner had rectified all the usual problems so since my purchase the car has been faultless. Just passed a CT(french MOT) so should last another two years....just. started to show rust underneath now, plus she has also shown a tendency to require coolant topping up every month....178,000 miles.....I am not going to grumble. Poor old thing is used and abused by all the family, would have a second one without hesitation if only the newest ones weren't nearly 14 years old. Going to replace the old thing with a FL2......so, just looking at preferred versions.

[@comeinhandynow]

Yep, good old cars. Waxoyl spray underneath (another video) helps keep the rust at bay. The FL2 is good. We used to have one. It’s the most reliable in it’s class.

[@qedoherty3348]

I have a 2004 hse manual TD4 Diesel in the morning when I first started it it takes about 30 to 40 seconds to start when it does black smoke comes out then the rpm go up and down the engine goes up and down with ribs but when you Revit with Excelerator it goes away it was like this for awhileBut it got water now I need to constantly keep revving it even when I’m at traffic lights or else it will cut out what do you think it could be the problem thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

Check glow plugs and that you have good manifold pressure - put on a boost gauge (cheap).

[@loveitorscrapit6673]

Great all round vehicle. Thumbs up.

[@Naughty_Squad]

Yeah right when you don't have to fix it

[@anmerkning]

Hello, i just bought this 2006 freelander. The Traction control and Hill Decent dashboard light are continuasly lighting up as i drive amd won’t go off, car drives fine otherwise. You touched on it in the video but do you perhaps have a video on this? Or if you could give me some input, only had it for a week and i really want to get rid of these dashboard lights. Thanks!

[@comeinhandynow]

Yep, the common problem could be the brake switch which is up underneath at the end of the pedal. Easy and cheap to replace. It can be stripped and fixed but better to replace with a new one. Or possibly the hill descent switch around the gear lever. Check wires there and that switch works ok. One of these day I’ll do a video on it but it will be a while.

[@danclough6437]

I'm looking at a freelander X rej tomorrow it has a chain driving engine and has 160 thousand on the clock whats the main thing to look out for and does the chain make a sound if it's bad. Thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

Based on my small experience with these, briefly I would say check: - VCU. Has it been changed in last 70k miles? Stiff or not? Jack up a wheel and try and try with a torque wrench. Should be able to turn slowly with firm resistance. - For any noises from diff, gearboxes, engine - Clutch bit point ok? Too low? Does it slip? - Brake pipes ok or rusty? - Any exhaust smoke in neutral at 2500 rpm? Or when driving? - Do all door locks open and close via fob - Do all windows including back, go up and down? - Check boot lower storage box for wet carpet. - Door mirrors move ok? - Any rust, exhaust boxes, suspension arms. - Rubber boots of steering arm and CVs ok? - Drive and brake ok with no pulling to one side? - VIN and engine no. Matches V5 doc? Eng no. on back of air filt box. - Starting from cold engine. If poor might need glow plugs or HP pump regulator fixing. - Check condition of pulleys and belts, listen for noises - If A/C works Chain would probably make a noise if bad but I don’t think it’s that common. I haven’t experienced that.

[@alexxxxx007]

Thanks for vid - useful! I have a TD4 2006 diesel 144k mileage and lost power on M1 on Monday. Luckily made it to verge from fast lane just in time. Discovered clanking noise at 2000 revs. when home (AA). Any ideas as to what it might be? Much appreciated.....

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks. Sorry to read of your problem. I have heard that crank pulleys can be a problem with the damper getting detached, so check that, it wouldn't cause lost power only a noise.

[@alexxxxx007]

comeinhandynow Thanks for your response! I’ll get my guy to look at that. Really confused as corroded bracket holding up fuel tanks only advisory on MOT last Dec so ...

[@comeinhandynow]

@@alexxxxx007 What did it turn out to be in the end? Just for interest and to help others.

[@tannenherz]

High, very interesting. I want to buy a F1 soon. You got my sub. Kindly Fiete

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks and welcome.

[@kavindunanjitha7768]

Hi there, Im looking to get a gear stick cover for my freelander as well. I got a 2004 freelander and it’s a automatic. Let me know. Thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

This link shows the knob and gaiter that I put on. It only needed a little drilling out of the centre of the knob for it to fit well. Very cheap. It was for a manual, so you may want something different. amzn.to/37kU24j

[@seanmurray9119]

Have you any information on reassemble of a fuel cap which fell apart on mine, I still have all the parts

[@comeinhandynow]

No, sorry.

[@deanbell6003]

I have 2 these one on 04 and one on 06 just replace all the tensions and bottom crankshaft pully and full service

[@comeinhandynow]

That pulley is expensive just to change with no problem present. At what age and mileage did you need a new one?

[@nw8000]

Hi There, Does att the tensioner come as a kit or did you have to buy them individually?

[@davidcunningham2089]

Hi there, great video. These are great cars. Testament the number still on the road. My wife has an 02 TD4 and runs well. However it's losing a small amount of coolant (topping up about 500mly ever 10 days). Looks like some small unit with rubber pipes on the side of engine (quite close to the coolant bottle) any ideas?

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks. Not sure about your leak location. Try and locate it by wiping away the liquid and then hold a clean dry kitchen tissue against the suspected leak point to locate the precise leak point checking for damp pathes on it.

[@davidcunningham2089]

Thanks @@comeinhandynow

[@kevenwatt8409]

Hi our driver seat has jammed in a very forward position whilst cleaning underneath, all the cables are in tact , it is manual not electric, its releasing to unlock and feels free on the left hand runner but the right hand moves very slightly and feels like its hitting something solid. Have WD40 the rail and also airline blown the area ... any ideas and help much much appreciated ?

[@comeinhandynow]

I’ve not had that problem so I’ve no particular suggestion apart from trying to look and see what might be blocking it. If you can it might be better to unbolt and remove the seat from the car in order to get a better look.

[@battmuff]

Had my td4 sport a week, got the common water in boot jack compartment and an oil leak , no bass at all from the stereo? but like it anyway😀

[@comeinhandynow]

Good. The water in the boot is fixable. I’ve never done a video on it but I have fixed mine by carefully looking at where the water is entering. Some sealant around the bottom trim and sides usually fixes it.

[@jonasbaringbing7775]

Hi. I have a freelander diesel 2001 td4 manual and the gearbox is going wrong and need a new part replacement. I just wondering if you can show me where the store is. Thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

Ashcroft transmissions are good (uk) I used them before. Otherwise look for your local landrover dealer or independent garage by searching on the web. There is also Ebay for secondhand gearboxes. Also Rimmerbros.co.uk have a lot of parts.

[@FikriSuhairi]

hey,do u have a problem with the power steering which is squeky when idle n drive?

[@comeinhandynow]

Not on mine. I have noticed a collapsed power steering hose on another but still no noise but worth checking. Could the drive belt be slipping? Check tension. You could also try some additive like this to see if it helps - amzn.to/2WcEfQT

[@carhard_oldmachine2743]

tell me freelander, before 2003 m47 diesel, with what Vp44 injection system? Has Komon Rail been installed on the restyling since 2004? SO ALL M47 PRE-STYLING THERE ARE NO COMONIRAIL?

[@comeinhandynow]

The earlier ones used the rover L series diesel engine not the BMW one. It was more reliable but lower power.

[@masterofdisaster7427]

My MAF sensor failed twice. No indication on the OBD tool. engine ran irritatingly, first suspected injectors, than just changed the MAF sensor, because a lot of engine problems which cannot be found directly are related to false readings of the MAF sensor without showing on OBD tool.

[@comeinhandynow]

Interesting. I have heard other people say the Bosch MAF is a common failure.

[@masterofdisaster7427]

@@comeinhandynow What brand of MAF sensor do you use? I have bosch now but it starts giving problems again. Rather change it for a different brand.

[@comeinhandynow]

@@masterofdisaster7427 There is a pierburg one that is more reliable but it has to be used with the synergy tuning box. There’s a video on my channel on it with buying links. I have a spare new pierburg one that came with my synergy that i never used, i could put on ebay if you want it.

[@masterofdisaster7427]

@@comeinhandynow Thank you for the offer,very kind. But for me the synergy tuning box is to expensive compared to the bosch. I have to change the bosch MAF sensor every other year. It costs approximately €70. I cut already a piece of the air filter cover so it takes 10min to change. I own a 2003 TD4 , automatic, 3 door. have it for 9 years now. has done 325000km/200000M. blanked the EGR. no real issues, just the normal things. Love the way it drives. Hope to keep it for a few more years.

[@marijanaradisavljevic4222]

Freelender 2.0td4 only works on traction, and as soon as I turn it off it won't start anymore.

[@cliffperry8470]

Hi can I ask if you have a hazard warning switch change because I've last all indicators.

[@comeinhandynow]

No, I’ve not done that.

[@cliffperry8470]

@@comeinhandynow ok thanks for getting back to me .

[@dolguldur4706]

I wanted to buy 2004 td4...whats the most part that i should be concern before purchase?

[@comeinhandynow]

Try and buy under 100k miles, look for smoke, odd noises from the engine and check for too much stiffness when turning on full lock showing VCU stiffness and listen for noises at same time. Also check all door locks and windows.

[@johngoultya1886]

I want help on how open sunroof if it’s stuck shut on mine looks like seal has melted on it

[@comeinhandynow]

Hard to diagnose from here, try lubing up the seal if that is it and try listening to see if the motor is trying to open the sunroof and diagnose from there on.

[@tissaenduroadventures7425]

What would be problems to look out for if i would buy a 1.8i 5 doors?

[@comeinhandynow]

Aditional things: check coolant water to see if it has any oil or emulsion in it (head gasket issue). Check if it overheats when sat idling for 30 mins, heater fan off, set to cold. Check clutch bite point is not near the floor.

[@tissaenduroadventures7425]

@@comeinhandynow thanks, is that all?

[@battmuff]

I’ve fitted some rear mud flaps to my freelander 1 sport , anyone know why the sport didn’t have rear mud flaps , I really curious 🤨

[@comeinhandynow]

Mud flaps have often been optional items, depending on model trim level. I guess it’s a customer choice / cost decision.

[@battmuff]

@@comeinhandynow that’s true but I’ve never ever seen mud flaps on the sport model , I’ve fitted a set to mine but they don’t fit exactly.

[@mart260182]

1 sub good luck on futer purchases my friend

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks.

[@antoniorodriquez1108]

Good morning I have a diesel td4 freelancer and the problem is the gears are not changing and I can on start the car when in gear and If I start in gear , I can’t change while in motion

[@comeinhandynow]

Sounds like the clutch isn’t disengaging properly, making gear changes very difficult. How does the clutch feel? Might be a slave cylinder problem.

[@antoniorodriquez1108]

@@comeinhandynow the pedal is fine when the engine is off the gear change is smooth but once the car start, gears can’t go in... so I usually start it in gears but when I’m motion I still can’t change gears

[@comeinhandynow]

@@antoniorodriquez1108 Sounds like the clutch isn’t disengaging. Is the clutch pedal bite point half way? Or near the floor?

[@antoniorodriquez1108]

@@comeinhandynow near the floor

[@comeinhandynow]

@@antoniorodriquez1108 There is the problem then. You probably have air in the hydraulics for the clutch, you should try bleeding the clutch system. Make sure you always have enough fluid in the clutch reservoir while bleeding. If you still have problems getting the air out then there is this mod that will bring up the clutch bite point and allow you to change gear: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aomboHSIaMaMhKM

[@bigbill74scots]

That tuning box you've bought, all it does is up the rail pressure behind the injectors. It then causes your injectors to fail as they aren't designed to work past design pressure.

[@comeinhandynow]

It’s a shame I can’t check this as I have now sold the car but I seem to recollect that the HP fuel sensor gives the same correct reading with or without the box switched in, so I don’t think the pressure is increased. There is another video on the HP fuel regulator fix and sensor readings. The Ronbox certainly modifies the HP sensor and MAF readings but it may just fool the ECU into putting in a bit more boost and fuel (by extending the injector time). If someone has a ronbox please measure the HP fuel sensor voltage with and without it switched in to double check this, as I’ll keep an open mind.

[@malcolmyoung7866]

Having been forum members on Landyzone.co.uk I have read quite a lot of posts regards ‘Ronbox’ tuning gizmos. Not read any negative comments and I think Rover forums seem to back up the general conscensus that the ‘Ron Box’ actually works without issues. I have a TD4 and it is very much a ‘buyer beware’ car but if you go into ownership with a bit of knowledge/know how and basic mechanical skills you can get a good car relatively cheaply(after sorting out the common issues) My car is being welded on the near side sill(I’m doing that) and requires a new upper steering column.. the upper bushing can wear out. New parts aren’t that expensive and working on that area is fairly straightforward. Have done most of the jobs mentioned by you in here but need to clean the Inter cooler as per your latest video and replace the tank cradle. Some great content on here thanks for sharing.

[@bigbill74scots]

I've had the ron box on three vehicles until I was in a position to get them mapped, I'm not knocking it as it does the job at a cheap price. However, is it as good as a map? No where near it.

[@comeinhandynow]

@@malcolmyoung7866 Cheers. Thanks for your input.

[@LBA-1]

I have a 2004 td4 auto and its thristy

[@garypeatling7927]

Gearbox ird unit rear dif drive shaft lots of clunky vibrating stuff rear drive shafts hard to tell when worn get vibrating through whole car inner have to take rubber boots off and look at play

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks for your input. That IRD, diff, drive shaft stuff is all related to the VCU (viscous coupling unit) in the middle of the prop shaft getting stiff and straining that stuff with unequal diameter tyres (e.g. new versus old) between the from and back. So for unfamiliar people out there: test the VCU when your car is over 7 years old or over 70k miles - reverse on full lock. If it feels like the handbrake is on significantly then it may be a VCU going stiff. Google freelander VCU test for more thorough testing and replacement.

[@FreddyLekhuleng]

Show the dashboard on 1.8 petrol engine.

[@comeinhandynow]

Not quite sure what the purpose of showing the dashbiard is, please elaborate.

[@julieking9183]

How to replace a new battery

[@comeinhandynow]

Just unclamp it and swop it over.

[@JL-es2fp]

I’ve got a td4 2004, it won’t go over 2 1\2 thousand revs, Help plz?????

[@comeinhandynow]

Have a look at some of my other videos on the freelander, there’s one where I had the same problem. A crankshaft sensor not pushed in properly was the problem for me.

[@Boris-dq3ub]

Made with iMovie

[@comeinhandynow]

You are right

[@eddieMurphy11111]

not true about the prop i had 175,000 on my last freelander and no problem now i have one with 110,000 and still no problems if you start to miss use the car the prop will soon follow

[@comeinhandynow]

That’s good, I guess it depends how well the front and rear tyres are matched in tread depth. More mismatching leads to more strain on the VCU.

[@eddieMurphy11111]

@@comeinhandynow i have matched tyres all round and if i need a new one it is in pairs and always new ones on the back

[@tonyjunor1490]

Immobiliser

[@comeinhandynow]

Not had that problem on any of mine.