FREIGHT YARD & Landscape Progress at Chadwick Model Railway | 216.

[@steveharrop1082]

Brilliant Charlie. Absolutely brilliant. Got a reason now to slog on with mine for the next two weeks. Never give up. The pleasure you give is not measurable. God bless you. Steve

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Steve, it’s comments, such as yours that make the whole thing worthwhile. Regards, Charlie

[@Philcyoung]

Charlie, a little bit of detail when you wire the double slip please - for us beginners!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Certainly mate, it would be a pleasure. Regards, Charlie

[@nickrails]

Google is your friend, loads of wiring diagrams just on the first couple of lines of images. For electrofrog - essentially isolate the slip by sticking insulated joiners on the end of all rails then power the slip via wires from your power bus. To switch frog polarity/power the frog, wire each frog to its opposite tiebar via a point motor, or a SPDT switch (ie the left hand tiebar controls the polarity of the right hand frog, and vice versa) For a bullhead Unifrog, on a DCC layout you can use it as is from the box, no isolation needed. Its is still recommended to power the double slip rather than relying on fishplates for your electrical connection. In this configuration the frogs will be dead, so you can power your frogs as described above or with a frog juicer. It sounds more complicated than it is, the wiring diagram is alot clearer than my description! Good luck

[@caravancapers5091]

Can I also request the three way as well please? 😮

[@johnland7318]

Please for DC !! Why does the double slip need fitting with insulated fishplate/joiners.

[@nickrails]

​@johnland7318 My understanding is that if you don't insulate you will have polarity issues, and a short will be caused when you enter an adjoining section of track.

[@malcolmmyatt9092]

Tip for attaching boards, first screw some blocks to the underside of the main base board. Then rest the backboard on these. Mark out and trim to terrain shape . Attach backboard as required. Remove blocks from underside.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Now that’s a great suggestion, Malcolm. Regards, Charlie

[@shauntaylor9251]

Also try and cut the board cut to the right width in B&Q !

[@lordflasheart6801]

Ah! It's one of those "Mr Bishop Thursdays" that don't come often enough! Lovely stuff Charlie, informative and painstakingly put together. Fair play for promoting Buffers too, as you have said in the past and we all know only too well. Use them, or lose them. My best wishes, Nige

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Nige, I’m so pleased to have your support on the channel. Regards, Charlie

[@SD45-ET44AC]

Another Great Chadwick/Charlie Production! Time well spent watching, listening & learning! Thanks👍🏽👍🏽

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s very kind of you to say so mate. Regards, Charlie

[@russellfletcher114]

Hi ya Charlie, another fantastic video as always 👏 So pleased to see the progress that you're making. These kind of videos always inspire me to crack on with my own layout.... so thank you very much for making them👍👍 It really made me happy to see Buffers in this episode. Due to work etc, I haven't been as much as I would have liked. I had hoped to pop in before my holiday so it was almost surreal seeing the shop from a very hot and sunny Boa Vista 😎 Keep up your brilliant work as always my friend and I shall very much look forward to the next episode 😀 All the very best Russ

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Russ, it’s comments such as yours, that make the whole thing worthwhile. Regards, Charlie.

[@allenkotlan3606]

@russelfletcher114 Thank you for the typing of my thoughts as well. Charlie, nice work, much appreciated and inspiring me to push on with my 30 feet of fascia; I fear to admit estimating hours or days of work ahead. Supporting the local brick & mirror hobby shop as I can.

[@ModelRailwayShed]

Your an inspiration to us all Charlie 👍

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie

[@kevinheard8364]

"Well, Look At You!!" as I share in your satisfaction of using the camera stand thing so conveniently. Fabulous video, as always.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Kevin, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie

[@davidsheriff8989]

For me, you are the ultimate professional when it comes to construction......

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s most kind David. Regards Charlie

[@stephenrussell-clark8329]

Thanks Charlie for the lovely visit to Buffers. In 1999/2000 we spent 7 months in Dorset and made many happy trips across to Axminster. So many happy memories. 😂

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Stephen, it truly is a decent model railway shop. Regards, Charlie

[@1701_FyldeFlyer]

Hi Charlie. I tend to use the track 'centre line' function of AnyRail rather than the 'track' or 'sleeper' option view to print out where the track is going and points etc need to be positioned. I then tape the printed A4 sheets together like you have done and pin to the board. Using a stitching pattern pin wheel, I then roll the pin wheel along the track centre line on the printed pages which come out on the boards \ track bed. This method correctly positions the frogs of the points and slips as you're using the centre lines. HTH anyone using AR and printing their plan out.

[@andydavidson9440]

Great advice! Thank you

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Now that’s a useful method. Regards, Charlie

[@TilefordOO]

Excellent as always Charlie. Also massive respect for filming yourself doing DIY type stuff - if it was me the video would consist mainly of me swearing and having to redo it when I’ve botched it up!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You’ve no idea how many outtakes there are with a obscene language! Regards, Charlie

[@rogerbarrett6127]

Thank you Charlie, another informative video, with 'lessons' that can applied to my developing N gauge layout.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Roger, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie

[@stephendavies6949]

Nicely done with the impact driver. I had a panic attack when I saw you were going to use it to secure the MDF to your base board. I was worried that the screw would end up in the TMD! This episode also provided us with some very good footage of your helix. It really is a thing of engineering beauty. Quote of the week: "This is a shunter's paradise". Top tip regarding track placement and alignment.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Stephen, that’s most kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie

[@thelibrarian46]

An excellent explanation of track laying and problem-solving is carefully explained as part of the curriculum for GSCE Model Railway Building. I find this fascinating, and a pleasure to watch, and enjoy seeing the progression of Chadwick and District.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Mr librarian. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie

[@PeachyTT120]

Cheers Charlie… I’ve just had one of those “I’ve been there!” moments, Buffers is a lovely little shop, I visited a couple of times a few years back when I was supervising the creative fit-out of the newly built ticket office/station on the Seaton Tramway. Happy days

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Peachy, yes it’s a marvellous little shop. I see that your channel is doing well. Regards, Charlie

[@keithwinn2995]

Another great watch! If you every need to cut flexi-board again from the notched face, get a downward cutting blade for the jigsaw; yours are obviously upward cutting.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

To be honest, Keith, I didn’t know you could get a downcutting blade. Regards, Charlie

[@StationRoadModelRailway]

No doubt somebody else may have suggested a peco set track curved point that has a uni-frog. Discovered them the other day at my local model shop. Great video as always Charlie. Take care, Julian

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Julian, I’ve just picked one up from East Somerset Models. Regards, Charlie

[@gavinmccall7179]

Great to see all that progress and looks like all the track will soon be down.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Gavin, that’s most kind. Regards Charlie

[@andersholt4653]

The weekend is saved when it starts with another brilliant installment from Chadwick. You are lucky to have a shop "nearby" - I have about 250 miles to my nearest, so have to rely on mail-order. Thanks for sharing. Greetings from Sweden 🇸🇪.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

It’s not that close, about 25 miles away. However, we were going that way on our travels. Regards, Charlie

[@heru_ur6017]

If only we could be so lucky. Closest shop is in a next country, and even they barely have anything for sale. Sufficed to say , model railroading has been dead here for a few years already.

[@RhooseRestorations]

Hi Charlie, nice video as usual I particularly like the scenic episodes where you create some sawdust! I'm looking forward to the course in May and finally launched my channel this week!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Tim, I must check out your videos. Regards Charlie

[@RhooseRestorations]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie, I'd appreciate the feedback!

[@SantaFeBob]

Another excellent demonstration video. I love the Anyrail track plan pages and the way you attached your track based on the paper plans. Thank you for taking the time to show us.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Bob, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Stay safe, regards, Charlie

[@aspicer15]

Another great episode I love Buffers a great shop and very friendly staff and some great second hand Bargains

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I couldn’t agree more mate. Regards, Charlie

[@williamj3843]

An amazing bit of starting with a plan but being prepared for when the execution needs a bit of a tweak. Have you considered using a sewing "tracing wheel" run down the rails of your paper plan and leaving a line of small perforations in the roadbed as a transfer method? Your videos are always inspirational.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video, William. Yes, as you appreciate it was a challenge converting a piece of paper into track plan reality. Regards, Charlie.

[@adriangiddins6065]

Thanks Charlie....just love watching other people working !! 🙂

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

It’s a hard life, Adrian, give it your best shot mate. Regards, Charlie

[@IronHorseRailways]

Good drills as usual, Charles! Really looking forward to seeing the goods yard take shape!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Ironhorse. Regards, Charlie

[@mikehumphrey7413]

Well done Charlie, another great video on the Landscaping wood work and the enters to the Freight yard. Mike HO from Australia.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Mike, it’s great to have you on board. Regards Charlie

[@AaronOxfordExmouth1989]

Absolutely exceptional, as usual Charlie. You have really given me pause for thought, as I will be modelling a TMD with a DMU line. Thanks for another great video.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Aaron, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie

[@mikeslemmings9943]

Great video, many thanks. It would be great if you could go into some detail about fitting the point motors to the double slips and Y point.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Then I certainly shall Mike. Regards, Charlie.

[@maltnz]

For straight line cuts, if you are clamping the mdf ... clamp some sort of straight edge at the same time. Use the distance from the jigsaw blade to the edge of the saw base to position the straight edge out from the cut line. Then just push the say along the straight edge when cutting.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Apparently, you can also buy blades that cut on the downstroke. Regards, Charlie

[@markfisher8206]

Excellent drone shot of the trip to the hobby store! I am always amused by driving videos on narrow roads reminiscent of F1 racing!,gasp!,lookout,lookout Charlie you almost hit that wall!Another solid all round video cheers! Yes up for another point wiring clip!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Mark, so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie

[@malcolmmyatt9092]

Lovely work, and seeing you going to buffers reminded me I must pay a visit there this summer when I’m on my jolly’s. It’s a bit far from Worcester unless I’m in the area. Lovely helpful people.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Malcolm, perhaps one day we will bump into each other in Buffers. Regards, Charlie

[@leschapman3268]

Another good video, it was nice to get out in the car, we don't get out much these days.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Les, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed a little variety. Regards Charlie

[@chrispools]

Charlie, I don't have any model railways or trains at all due to the cost. I would love a set up like yours. I am interested in dioramas, hence why I love your chanel. Thank you

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Chris. Do check out Luke Towan, for dioramas. Regards Charlie

[@WonderingWomble]

Ace Charlie.. Love it when you go into more depth in the video instead of just talking about it.. Its a shame we can't subscribe more than once, but give it time and you will get there.. Cheers

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks mate, that’s most kind. Regards Charlie

[@jeffjones6107]

Another great video, Charlie. The layout is progressing nicely, and enjoy seeing it grow 👍

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Jeff, I’m so pleased you find the channel interesting. Regards Charlie

[@davidberlanny3308]

Hi Charlie, been away for the weekend so I'm late for the show!! That was a great mix of activities. Really enjoyed the visit to Buffers, would love to see some more of your drone filming if it worked out for you. The question I have for this goods yard is how are you proposing to operate it? What comes to mind is that the intention would be to have someone operating it in situe, would they be controling all the activities through an electronic interface or perhaps an electrical panel or maybe even both. Perhaps you dont need all of the points automated or maybe some could be solenoid, just thoughts. Be interesting to know how you are planning to do this. I also look at the three way point thinking about the wiring diagram, i know others have commented, I'm sure some time on this would be appreciated. As always a really well presented and interesting video together ... maple sauce too!! All the best!!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found the interest, David. The freight yard operator, will operate everything manually, via a tablet and a DT602 throttle . Regards, Charlie

[@alexmorgan2296]

Really inventive and most interesting; thank you again. As with others, more guidance/reminders on wiring point motors really welcome.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Alex, and I shall certainly include the wiring of the points. Regards, Charlie

[@andrewh6034]

Great progress Charlie. I enjoyed the little trip to the shop bit. Cheers.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Andrew, I’m so pleased that you found it entertaining. Regards, Charlie

[@Osterweder]

Thank you Charlie for your great inspiration - I always have to disappear for a few hours on my model railway after watching a new video. Greetings from the north of Germany, Carsten

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Carsten, I’m so pleased that it gives you inspiration. Regards, Charlie

[@jameshennighan8193]

THE SLOTTED / SLATTED MDF Charlie, I have used this previously for any number of tasks, including model railways, and I noticed very early on, (as you have), that it 'spalls' very easily. From experience I have used very fine types of saws or even Exacto or Stanly type blades which involves some care in scoring it, especially if the aim is to retain all of ones fingers at the end of the process. If this is done carefully it works fine. I do recognise that for a long length run, as you have used for the backing to the hillside, this might take a while to do......but there you go. I have found Jigsaws far too harsh, even with the finest of blades. One of the things that I have found useful is to clamp a length of timber along the cutting line. It serves as both a guide and as protection against 'spalling'. In this way an ordinary Tenon Saw is best, although obviously the finer the better. When this method is used it is always possible that some bits 'spall' off anyway. However, the use of a clamped length of timber means the bits are not lost on the floor and can be easily glued back as required. Whilst you have used it here for the backing to the hilside, (the ability to curve being its virtue), it is actually very useful for modelling buildings, wagons etc...etc...........where it gives an easily identifiable 'planking' or board effect. Another excellent video.... Thank you.. James Hennighan Yorkshire, England P.S. Given its flexibility it can also serve to form track gradients.....!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Many thanks James, for an interesting comment. I’ve also been told that you can get jigsaw blades that cut on the downstroke. Regards, Charlie

[@TrickysFlyingBurrito]

New to this hobby as of this week, this channel is such a wonderful discovery. Informative, entertaining and inspiring, you deserve every success. Heres to 100k!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks TFB, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie

[@bigfella1952]

Another good video. A tip when trying to fit your back panel, is to temporarily screw or clamp a piece of wood to the underside of the baseboard.. You can then rest your backpanel on the timber, gets it level and holds it allowing ease of fastening. … then remove when done.. Like the freight yard plan.. Did you know you had a drone following you ? 🙄 Nice jiggery pokery laying track, removing paper. Well done .. Love to see details of wiring the point work up. x The Bigfella x

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks big fella, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie

[@petersinge5483]

Hi Charlie Pete from Australia again, it seems that I have lead you up the garden path. The points that I described before were not the ones that I meant but the correct numbers are SL-U76 and SL-U77 sorry about that, cheers Pete.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

No problem, Pete, I bought one this afternoon. Regards, Charlie

[@kymwelsby8761]

Well thought out Charlie, patience is the key.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Kym, so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie

[@IanBrant]

Another great video, as somebody has already mentioned about wiring double slips I will say yes please that would be very interesting. Keep the good work going👍👍👍

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes I will go through those wiring issues. Regards, Charlie

[@oopster74]

I can't remember what I used as part of my backscene, but it was only 3mm thick flexible wood from B&Q which looks like the kind of wood you'd find at the back on flat-packed wardrobes. I've screwed that onto 9mm mdf that I had planned to use for baseboards (I had in some instances before switching to ply).

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, I imagine that you used hardboard. Regards, Charlie.

[@oopster74]

@ChadwickModelRailway no idea to be honest. Was in B&Q and saw this thin wood by the cutting area and just asked about it. It's rough on one side and white on the other.

[@stevetrossell4255]

Hi Charlie, an idea for using the Anyrail full scale print-out for locating track is to print the view with track centre line only. Then, with the whole sheet of paper taped strategically to the baseboard, progressively, track by track, cut along the centre lines and use the revealed edge to mark the baseboard (or cork) with a pen. Then lay the track to the centre lines. I hope that makes sense….it worked for me anyway!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Many thanks for sharing your process Steve. I’ve replied to this comment before, but somehow it doesn’t appear. Hopefully this will be my last anyrail track plan print. Regards Charlie

[@boblatham4601]

Hi Charlie you could use your new short siding as the place the shunter waits for a train to arrive and if you can get a Triplet past the 3 way point use it as a short headshunt Lawrence Hill yard in Bristol used to have a very short one after remodelling in the 70’s

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’ve had a little rethink Bob. You’ll see in the next video. Regards, Charlie

[@kriso1891]

Another amazing and inspiring video

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Kriso, stay safe mate.

[@jeffbrownlee9612]

Brilliant, as always. Also, Margaret will get that glue out of your shirt. No doubt.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Too late for that Jeff, it’s in the bin. Regards, Charlie

[@Holedigger123]

Hi Charlie, excellent content as usual. You don’t have to modify your track plan, Peco now produce the SetTrack Curved Point as Streamline, and even better it’s Unifrog, so no IRJ’s required. I have two on my layout they are superb. Put your track plan back as designed and enjoy your long headshunt

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’ve just picked one up Paul , from East Somerset Models. Regards, Charlie

[@williamhawkins-vx6sq]

Hi Charlie, Peco now do a small radius curved point in the streamline range and which is unifrog, so you can use it as an electro frog if you wish

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi William, I’ve just picked one up from East Somerset Models. Regards, Charlie

[@rzholland]

when fixing a sheet like that it is always best to fix the middle first, so it is easier to keep in position

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A fair point, RZ. Regards Charlie

[@rzholland]

@@ChadwickModelRailway It seemed to work OK, but normally one would not put a joint on the curved bit, even if it meant cutting it into more pieces so that all joints were on a straight section, I am a retired carpenter

[@kelvinVAUGHAN]

If you drill holes in the paper where the white dots are you can lay the paper over the track and see if everything is in the right place.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Kelvin, a useful tip. Regards, Charlie

[@grahamthompson6622]

There is an alternative way round the curved setback point problem. I use five setrack points including two curved models on my very space-restricted layout. These were converted from insulfrog to electrofrog points by Pat Nicholls via a website contact. These have proved entirely successful and can be thoroughly recommended.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s very interesting Graham. Could you possibly pass me the details? Regards, Charlie

[@glynrowe2518]

@@ChadwickModelRailway This is Pat Nicholls KZbin channel www.youtube.com/@ratp78

[@glynrowe2518]

If you wish to try a DIY approach, last year I was looking into converting a Double Slip, although I have yet to try it so don't know how well it works. The technique was to paint the frog with conducting paint and the use the Gaugemaster DCC Auto Frog (DCC80) to stop it shorting out. The DCC80 may also be a solution to your Double Slip shorting issue.

[@alexdrennan6185]

wonderful video blog as usual have missed a few but the layout and the fright yard is going to look wondeful when finished thought the loco depot is well thought out and very realistic

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Alex, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie

[@tronmcconnell4465]

Loved the video, especially the construction part. Here in the USA, we have access to something we call "Flexi-Ply", which is basically the same type of material you were using, except that it's plywood, instead of MDF. As a result, it's a lot safer (environmentally) to work with, and the large sheets we get are easily cut down to more manageable sizes on the table saw in our high school's theater scene shop (where I volunteer). To cut thin stock, plywood or MDF, with a jig saw, I frequently use a very fine-toothed metal cutting blade, rather than a fine-toothed wood cutting blade, as the teeth-per-inch are much finer and the resulting damage to the thin wood sheets is significantly lessened.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Tron, for sharing your methods. Regards Charlie

[@shauntaylor9251]

You can get flexi ply in the UK as well

[@steveedwards9957]

Super show this week Charlie, thankyou, lots for me to take on board. If it hasn't been raised already, a pin wheel works well to mark your track out. Don't go too fine a wheel as it may not indent into your cork enough. I've used your wiring methodology on my layout and would appreciate seeing how you wire up double slips and 3 ways.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Steve , I’m so pleased you enjoy the video and thanks for Tip regarding the wheel. Regards, Charlie

[@mmsmits2868]

Loved the road trip! When cutting boards, to prevent splintering, use strong masking (painters) tape on both sides over where you're cutting, and keep the side that you want to keep the cleanest down. The teeth of the saw blade will bite in there and spit out the other side. So, for that scored MDF, keep the scored side down, put one or two layers of tape where you're cutting, then draw your lines, and then cut. That should greatly minimize splintering. Have a great two weeks! ~Maarten

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’ve also discovered that you can get a downcutting blade! Regards, Charlie

[@johnland7318]

Charlie the only way to successfully cut thin sheet materials is to follow the absolute fact that 3 teeth or more must engage the thickness, as the saw cuts. So for the Flexi MDF, I would use a jigsaw blade for metal sheet. It might be a bit slower than a wood blade, but you will have a better finish. If using a hand saw for a straight cut , in say, 2mm MDF making/using a very shallow angle of attack will make the 2mm of material apparently thicker, to the tenon saw. A additional problem with Flexi MDF, those saw cuts that allow the curve, leave weak ribs of MDF that can be broken away very easily. The MDF is formed with two hard skins with the central core much softer, extremely easy to split with a chisel into the edge. The ribs can be split off with a craft knife or a blow from a downward cutting jigsaw blade..... 3 teeth or more in contact. !!!!!!

[@anthonystevens8683]

This is fascinating how you go about different parts of the layout build. Great insight as to the methods and materials used as usual but the thought process really shines in this one. I'm sure that Class 25 is getting a tad restless while waiting for track laying but I'm sure it'll be well worth the wait. Many thanks as always for sharing Charly.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Anthony so kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie

[@little_britain]

Nice work. I watched a video a while ago - regrettably I can't find it now, where an American modeller laid up his track with point formations on his desk. He would solder everything at the rail joiners, and he could do this right on the paper plan. He would then lift the entire section (minus paper) onto his layout, glue (and optionally pin), and he would cut isolating sections after it was all set. His argument was that it's easy to lay track on a workbench, and the joins on curves won't kink. To keep the rails isolated, he would insert some plasticard and trim it to the rail profile. I like this idea and will be trying it on my layout for the more complex areas like station throats and fiddle yard entrances.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes little Britain, that’s interesting process. However, I have never seen it done on a video. Regards, Charlie

[@petersinge5483]

Hi Charlie Peco have small radius points in their new unifrog range SL-E91 RH and SL- E92 LH

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Peter, I bought one this afternoon. Regards, Charlie

[@robertstrainset6556]

Hi Mr Bishop, Nice to see the layout taking shape ever nearer to all the track being completed and you did very well fitting the flexible mdf to the curve you like me are alone in the building process so using your cramps just use them to put a bit of wood to the bottom of your ply base and where the mdf is flapping in the wind use a very useful tool you must have namely a tripod to hold it up I use them all the time and as we speak they are holding up one end of my new end to end layout which I am building. I would think coming up to London and attending the Ally Pally show is a bit far for you to travel but if you are it would be nice to know as I am sure lots of YT'ers and your viewers would love to see you. Well done on this and keep on track I am sure you will. Cheers Robert.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Robert, I’m so pleased that you enjoy the video. I will be at Ali Pali on the Sunday. Regards, Charlie

[@robertstrainset6556]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks for the reply I will only be there on the Saturday so GETS it is in October. Cheers Robert.

[@pgriffithsulster]

Best tool I ever bought was my dust collector. It connects to the saw, the router, I can use it with the drill …. Reduces dust in the garage significantly. You can get dust extractor attachments for the Makita jigsaw.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks PG, certainly worth investigating. Regards, Charlie

[@stuartmacleod8669]

Lovely way to finish February! Thanks Charlie. My vote for a little bit of focus is installing the MP10's, especially how you get on with hooking them to your DCC stationary decoders ... DS64's, I believe? MTB intends the MP10 to be physical AND ELECTRICAL analogs for the Tortoise, but I look forward to you sharing your "in the real world" experience. Thanks again!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Stuart, I shall certainly give them a good “going over”. Regards Charlie.

[@stevealbums7897]

Hi Charlie, the more information imparted, the better I think Steve

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Steve, it will be my pleasure. Regards, Charlie

[@johnland7318]

The sawcuts which allow the mdf to be flexible, also expose the internal structure of the mdf ...... The down stroke from the magic saw blade, can or will blow out lumps from the thicker islands of the mdf. Its the nature of the material, (the resin bonding of weaker inner layers ) the hard skin flaking away.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks John, I’ve been informed that there is a jigsaw blade that cuts on the downstroke. Regards, Charlie.

[@leewall8230]

Great progress Charlie , finishing off around the celotex makes such a difference. I would be interested in seeing how you wire up the double slip. Thanks

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Lee, and I shall certainly show the wiring details. Regards, Charlie

[@richardsweeney197]

You didn't ruin a polo shirt, you christened a new work shirt! Great video!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

The thing is Richard, I have already put one aside for glue work! Regards, Charlie

[@richardsweeney197]

@@ChadwickModelRailway That's what always happens!

[@rrgak4031]

Sell it as show worn attire!

[@johnland7318]

Just soak it for 24 hrs, and wash twice. PVA is weakened with water!!

[@captainsman]

And added character

[@derekloudon8731]

Another excellent and informative video. Wiring and motorisation of the double slip and three way point would be much appreciated. Thank you!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Derek, and that is what I shall do. Regards, Charlie

[@kenattwood8060]

Thank you for sharing your ideas, Charlie.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You’re most very welcome, Ken. Regards, Charlie.

[@hiesler]

Regarding where you explained a change to the track plan due to the PECO ST-244 curved turnout being Insulfrog: You may be interested to know that last year PECO released the SL-U76 which is the same geometry, but features a Unifrog allowing the crossing area to be powered.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You’ll be pleased that I bought one this afternoon. Many thanks for your advice, regards, Charlie

[@jedlahaye4765]

Afternoon Charlie ,watching you with the groved MDF was was interesting, down under here we we can get 2.5 ml MDF cover sheets from the local timber merchant, very easy to deal with, great progress

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Jed, so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie

[@SteveCane-n3o]

Hi Charlie, Another great video looking in from a novice. The good yard you are building is interesting. Have ever used sandpaper for. roadway and good base for some of railway. Use PVA glue to base and paint to the required colour the affected looks good. I have used it for roof of building. Steve Cane

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Steve, and no I have never used sandpaper. Regards, Charlie

[@johnwinstanley9538]

Two things on woodworking - Clamp a couple of wood scraps to hold the facia board to rest on while you're attempting to screw it in. Second - use a scrap thin board under your cut line and that should cut down on the splintering.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks John, sadly I’m no carpenter! Regards Charlie

[@timbevan7457]

Hi Charlie I’d be interested to see how you get on with installing the MP10 point motors under the board and seeing how much clearance you need to still run you locos and wagons. I’m going to taking a similar approach to you with a raised depot/freight yard. Thanks another good video😀👍🏻

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Tim, it will be an experience for us both. Regards, Charlie

[@davejt1967]

Hi Charlie. Minute 24. Having got the screws in the sleepers, lined up the track on the plan, why not the wizz the screws through the paper a bit to start in the board, the back them out, then remove the paper, then you would have holes started to screw back into. Just a thought from me sat in my arm chair. 😁

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You make a Fairpoint Dave, I was really just working off the cuff. Regards, Charlie

[@nigelpipe8933]

Nice job Charlie. Have a great weekend mate :)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Nigel, you too mate. Regards, Charlie

[@kenshores9900]

Charlie: Snother great video. Try 90% iso propanol or spray and wash ( contains butyl cellusolve). That show remove the glue. On anther note thanks for showing installation of three way and double slip turn outs. Cheers.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Many thanks, Ken, but sadly the T-shirt is in the bin. Regards, Charlie

[@damianellis7265]

Use carbon paper under your anyrail print out and a pointed roller/ pin wheel to leave a clean outline for the track on the base board (can even mark the joins etc). will save you a bunch of hassle, especialy removing and replacing paper later on

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Damien, a good alternative method. Regards, Charlie

[@davidcurrie8429]

Hi Charlie, Another very interesting video, it's good to see the progress, could you use a short peco point for the entrance to the freight yard, it has a radius of 24 inches. Regards, David.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi David, I’m going to try the short curved electro frog 1st. But nothing is off the table. Regards, Charlie.

[@AllensTrains]

Quite an entertaining video. The man starring in it is either a genius or a madman! When you construct your scenery, keep in mind you'll need a spot to place the camera! Thanks for uploading.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Allen. Regards Charlie, genius/madman.

[@kieranbeecroft8414]

I'd love to see you putting in the new motors in the next video, purely due to them being different! On the "new" plan layout, have you considered making the waiting line go further round, possibly linking up with the track as it enters from the Bowstring bridge? I am not sure if that's even a possibility given existing layout but would give you waiting room for more loco that you lose on by having a smaller headshunt.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I will certainly cover the installation of those point Motors Kieran. However, no I cannot extend either waiting line around to the bridge. Regards, Charlie

[@kieranbeecroft8414]

@@ChadwickModelRailway I remember there were restrictions but couldn't remember specifics. Thanks for filling me in!

[@vincenthuying98]

Dear Charlie, when next you’ll going to mount fascia in any form, whether flexible MDF, hardboard, masonite, flexible plywood, it may be helpful to create a temporary support under the baseboard to hold the fascia in place whilst you’re making your scribes for the cut lines. Also, the visible splice block at the corner under the hillside won’t be covered by the fascia height, as you were going about this job. That made me think; I don’t know how you’ve planned and if you’ve planned to distract the eyes from the visual aspect of the helix, but to elongate the downward overlap of the fascia below the lower edge of the baseboard, will allow for any possible solution there. You could of course mount a similar structure on and inside the lines of the downward looking surface of the baseboard, to achieve a similar effect. Nevertheless, such a construction narrows the gap between the outside of the helix and, let’s call it: ‘the upside down curb of the helix trim.’ This means it simply becomes more complicated. Do realize that leaving the helix visually exposed may be your first choice. However, where you’re putting such effort and dedication into the upper freight yard, the fascia and in a later stage most certainly the scenic aspect of the first glimpse on the layout, it may be worth while sharing this idea. Don’t get me wrong Charlie, I’m fully aware it’s your layout, therefore your choice. Cheerio

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I do understand your point of view Vincent. However, it would restrict the cleaning of the helix track. Regards, Charlie

[@vincenthuying98]

@@ChadwickModelRailway maybe I should have added that even a piece of curtain would suffice. With the overhang I suggested this would be a breeze to install. Even if only a curtain, it would prevent dust from entering the helix. Thus your cleaning interval would significantly be reduced. Still, I get your point, just as I said before. Cheerio

[@wilton34041]

Hi Charlie, really enjoyed this one, very useful 'how to'. Next time 'how to' on wiring those slips and three way point would be very handy please as I will have some to do later. cheers, Phil B.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Phil, and yes I certainly will cover their wiring. Regards, Charlie

[@gordontaylor1483]

Hi Oscar, I always like the low level, close up footage in the intro. Great running session and interesting trouble shoot on the variable radii. Knitting patterns and model railways are not compatible so spontaneity wins the day. The running plan is always scuppered by something apparently more interesting 👍 😀

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Gordon, I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel. Regards Charlie

[@gordontaylor1483]

Hi Charlie, I really need to put more tonic in it, especially midday 😂😂😂 I was watching your video, always good stuff and inspiring. I had just watched Oscar Paisley’s video and was commenting on my phone which, unknown to me, was linked to the TV playing your video, hence you getting a gobbledegook comment, no hope as they say 😂 Best regards, Gordon

[@Castlebridge-00]

Hi Charlie, If I was doing the flexible MDF, the grooves would have been facing out, as when facing in, they are fighting as a spring against each other. Also, to cut by looking at the grooves would stop the chuttering line. Laying those points also gave me the heebi jeebies but success in the end. Roll on 2 weeks. Barry.Devon

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found it entertaining Barry. Regards, Charlie

[@tomasskott6489]

Once again a brillant video 😊 I use Peco code 75 track. When I can't get the right curved turnout to fit, I use Tillig instead. I know the are just a tiny bit higher than the Peco ones, but when medling a liddle around with the joiners, you almost can't tell 😊

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Tomass, that’s an interesting option. Regards Charlie

[@railwayjade]

Great stuff, thanks for the update Charlie!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You’re most welcome Jade. Regards, Charlie

[@alancope9962]

Great video Charlie, love the track laying videos 👍

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Alan, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie

[@ausfoodgarden]

Oh, my word! I checked out that Flexi MDF out here in Melbourne and it costs about 65 quid. I think I'll use 3mm plywood instead. About 1/3rd of the price and bends quite easily. Great update Charlie. That monopod is a very expensive clamp though😊. I never realized how different the Settrack and Streamline radiuses were, I use a mix of Streamline and your basic old Hornby. Cheers!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks AFG. So sorry about the Australian price. Regards, Charlie.

[@i.love.kurt.cobain]

Nice video Charlie! My dad met you at the Warley Model Railway Show and took a picture with you! I am a new fan and love your videos☺️

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s great news. Pity I don’t have a copy. Regards Charlie

[@leestoddart7014]

Interesting as ever Charlie. Great to see the progress you are making. Just one little note - if those spaces between your screw holes were "150 cm" you'd need a MUCH longer piece of board.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Lee, I had thought of adding a text note but thought, “I wonder how many will notice”. Too many, it appears! Regards Charlie.

[@vicf5726]

Charlie, PVA glue removal (must be done before laundry) ⅓ water, ⅓ white vinegar, ⅓ acetone, rub it in with a soft brush let it dry then wash. if you've washed it, unlucky nothing will remove. great video as always, hated watching you struggle with the MDF, could you have screwed or clamped a temporary batten to under side of the ply, to support the board while you fixed it in place, hope the tip helps for the future.regards V

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks for the tip Vic. However, the adhesive was “sticks like”! Rest assured, that won’t come off. Regards, Charlie

[@lasseystad3266]

Jigsaw tip. To avoid splinters, put maskingtejp on the board before marking it. Mark on the tejp and then a finer tooth blade and cut at the line.. That will keep the board edge clean. Thank you for the video. Regards from Sweden.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks mate, sound advice. Regards, Charlie

[@marcdempsey5850]

Hello Charlie, yet another great video, always like it when the electric power tools come out and it’s time for the safety talk.. black edging makes a great difference. Once all in place will look fantastic. All best for track laying in fiddle yard, TMD soon🤣 all best Marc from Leighton Buzzard

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Marc, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie

[@murdochm4847]

Excellent video, Charlie. Would you please show how to wire a double slip in the next video?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Certainly Murdoch, it would be a pleasure. Regards, Charlie

[@carltontweedle5724]

Great as normal Charlie, I would be interested in those new point motors when you fit them. Plus I do not mind looking at your wiring mine is a birds nest in side a ball of string, how it works is magic.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I shall certainly show all the wiring mate. Regards, Charlie

[@wthwing]

Charlie, if I may be so bold to tell an expert something.... When you are placing fascia and you are the ONLY one around may I suggest you place one screw at one end then go the opposite end and place the screw in that end thus the rest of the fascia should be now easy to place all the other screws in their places... Do love your work over the past several years....

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Now you think that was sound advice. However, because of the curves, I had to do it one section at a time. Regards, Charlie