Fresh Glug the Easy Way; Changing the Engine Oil on a new Defender P400 with a Vacuum Pump

In this video I talk about the 'easy way' to change the oil on the 2020 Defender by using a vacuum suction pump (the engine featured is a P400, but it will work for others). The 'best way' (and the hardest) is to drain by the sump plug -- this technique allows all the oil to be drained from the engine; but to get at the sump plug, you need to crawl under the vehicle and pull the underbody protection panels... and that's a bit of a pain in the butt. So I switch it up, changing the oil once by draining and on the next oil change, by sucking it out. Land Rover's officiel services are done by this suction method and it will take you about 7 minutes when you get good!
Feel free to comment below with useful and engaging debate; "It's a pretender not a defender" or "solid axles rule OK" comments will be deleted -- just sayin'.
The intro and outro are from: EEAAEA
Performed by: VVibeTrix (Johanna Ahola-Launonen, Maarit Laihonen, Matti Häyry, Mikaela Mansikkala, Satu Haiko)
Music: Matti Häyry
Lyrics: Matti Häyry
Arrangement: Matti Häyry, Mikaela Mansikkala, Lacce Väyrynen
Recording: Matti Häyry, Lacce Väyrynen
Studio engineering: Matti Häyry, Lacce Väyrynen
Producer: Lacce Väyrynen
Executive producer: Matti Häyry
Mastering: Kesthouse
With Permission from: (c) Matti Häyry and Polite Bystander Productions 2019

[@davidsalter9592]

Great vid. I was really surprised how mucky that oil was on such low mileage. Is that a factor of concern? I'm in UK and have just ordered the 6 cyl, D250 deisel.

[@shedlock2000]

Yes, me too! It goes to show how quickly the oil can get dirty in regular driving conditions (maybe some cold-weather conditions). I think that it spots up quickly, which is likely an issue of the air/breather recycling etc. The new generation of cleaner engines seem to have a greater particulate contamination and dirtier oil. I can’t imagine that the diesel would be any better, but do envy your ability to have the option - no diesels in Canada!

[@davidsalter9592]

@@shedlock2000 Well I shall certainly keep my eye on mine now and I shall definately get one of those hand pumps.

[@bordercanoe]

Great video. When you get to the last wee bit on the hand pump just add 500ml of clean engine oil through the oil filler cap. That flushes the old black oil out. Cheap same grade oil is fine for flushing.

[@shedlock2000]

Thanks for mentioning that tip, Allan. I do add some clean oil to help flush the remaining old oil out (you can see me mention the technique in the video I made on changing the oil in a 5.0ltr SC engine). I am not at all sure why I didn't put it in this video.

[@milandjukic3589]

Shedlock 2000 Yorkshire man)). Fantastic video and presentation from over the pond 🇬🇧 ))) Staffordshire

[@shedlock2000]

Thanks!! Almost next door!

[@BergFamilyable]

Great Intro! Better than any LR marketing piece I have seen...

[@shedlock2000]

Glad you like it!

[@clooperman3745]

Gadzooks, l thought my Td5 had a busy engine bay but this was something else!! Waiting for the Defender 90 Commercial to come out, hopefully it will be on springs, not air bags, one less thing to fail!!!

[@shedlock2000]

Hahah! Someone else who watched Rentaghost! The air ride really makes this vehicle! Plum for it and not springs. The vehicle is a king and air ride on JLR has been dependable for 25 years - you’ll have no issue until you need to change your shocks (when they wear out), and you can change the bags then - they won’t be expensive in 15 years! Love me a commercial!

[@andrewmount6564]

The 90 Defender Commercial is out now and springs are standard (unfortunately).

[@shedlock2000]

It’s not reached out shores yet, so far as I’m aware. I imagine it’ll be popular here too - but I wouldn’t want one on springs!

[@andrewmount6564]

@@shedlock2000 Nope, me neither. Got too used to air on the Discos! Both 90 & 110 Commercials in UK coils are standard but I think you can only upgrade to air on 110?

[@shedlock2000]

@@andrewmount6564 I’d be surprised if the 90 were only available on springs - maybe it’s a spring option only on the commercials (but I can’t see that either). I don’t know if commercials will be available here in any form!

[@hd5845]

Great video. As a suggestion, use the length of the dip stick to work out how far your hose should go down the hole

[@shedlock2000]

That's often a working solution, but the dipstick does not always go to the bottom of the hole, as it is there only to give the owner information about the correct level of the oil. In this case, the sump holds nearly 9 liters, but the difference between high and low is only 2". 9 Litres over the area of the sump is more than 2", so It is likely that the dipstick doesn't go to the bottom!

[@Cooliemasteroz]

If I still changed my own oil I think I would get it the vehicle fully warmed up before hand to minimize any lack of lubrication on restart, drain the oil as well as any in the filter into some sort of container that has measurements on it so that I know exactly how much oil has come out and then only put that amount back in to avoid over filling. I don’t think I would wait too long to get every last drop of oil out to avoid any lack of lubrication when restarting especially if I was changing it at something like every 6000km. I would then restart a soon as possible run it for a while and then let it sit for 30 minutes and recheck the level to see if it needs topping up.

[@shedlock2000]

That’s a fair comment. My sucker has a scale on it, and that is how I was able to tell I pulled out 8.8 litres. In addition, I mentioned that oil should be drained when the vehicle is at operating temperature (actually, about 20 minutes after it reaches temperature - otherwise you can be badly scalded by the oil). I always check on the dipstick because engines may burn oil (or lose it - which is very common for Land Rovers!!), this how much you take out may not be how much you need to put in! Draining as much oil as possible is important because the impurities in the oil can contaminate new oil and, if you leave too much in, negate the beneficence of changing the oil.

[@ThomasPlace45]

Trip-tick case of that Bremont looks sick!

[@shedlock2000]

Thanks!! That’s a keen eye! British design 😉

[@ThomasPlace45]

@@shedlock2000 Enjoyed the vid! I'll give some of your other vids a go as well.

[@shedlock2000]

@@ThomasPlace45 Thanks! Please subscribe to the channel too! It helps keep you notified of new content!

[@ThomasPlace45]

@@shedlock2000 I don't even have a Landy, but heck, I'll subscribe for all the Bremont footage!

[@shedlock2000]

@@ThomasPlace45 haha!! There are some egregious Bremont shots every now and then! What do you have?

[@promenteryrobbins]

Nice video - you could do with a tripod-mounted GoPro and a DJI Pocket2 to add to your camera equipment

[@shedlock2000]

Thanks for the advice! I’m really only starting out with this filming malarkey! I might cough up for a GoPro at some stage, but I’m actually just a student, so money is quite tight - my phone will have to make do at this point! I will invest in a tripod, though. The gimbal is an Osmo 3, or something like it. I’m getting there slowly with it! Lol

[@munaifalmetlaa4950]

Why some people put little amount of oil in filter housing is it necessary , have you measured the drawn oil , if you drawn the oil from down you will have right amount 8.8 but you use oil suction pump it will be the same amount or less ? Nice video thanks waiting for full service video 👍👍👍

[@shedlock2000]

The theory behind filling up the filter housing was that your oil pump always had something to pump around as soon as you started the engine. It also helped to avoid air blocks and also helped you to be accurate when filling the oil up (a filter could take as much as a litre of oil, and if a person were to check the oil before starting it, they could be a litre out of they forgot to check afterwards). On these engines you can’t fill up the filter housing as it flies on upside down, so all the oil would run out before you could get it on the engine. Depending upon ho close your pipe goes to the bottom of the sump, you should be able to pull up pretty much all the old oil - I measured my old oil at very nearly 8.8 litres, so I’d got pretty much all of it out. In addition, I was only able to put 8.8 litres back in, so sucking it out must have emptied the sump pretty much completely. Draining the sump, of course, is more thorough - but Seder and messier to do.

[@chvaspraghuveerchowdary6589]

Did you mix Land Rover coolant and Castrol engine oil ? Is it recommended even when you live in hot climate regions?

[@shedlock2000]

I’m not sure I understand the question. I only use Land Rover coolant, but I don’t mix it with any engine oil! Generally speaking, one doesn’t mix the two - it would not be a good pairing! I use Castrol’s Edge engine oil for the engine lubrication, and JLR coolant (premixed) for my coolant. In hot applications, you will want the 5W-30s for engine oil to provide more viscosity at higher temperatures. You definitely need coolant (even in hot countries), as the coolant also cleans the coolant channels, reduces corrosion, and increases heat capacity of the coolant. You should have a 50/50 mix of coolant with water - unless your coolant comes premixed (which will also be at 50%).

[@fabulousoffroaddesigns5080]

Fun video, but I can't believe you change your oil that often! What a colossal waist of good oil! I hope you keep it and reuse it in an old beater or something. The dipstick markings go from the top O IXXXXXXXXXI O > to the bottom. The top hole is the oil level before you restart the engine and fill the filter. The top line of the hash marks is the full mark after the engine has been run and the system is pressurized and the filter is full of oil, then turned off again.

[@shedlock2000]

Well, wether or not it’s a waste is debatable. There are a lot of people who think black oil in an engine is a bad day waiting to happen! Indeed, after a candid conversation with a guy at Castrol, it’s clear that even oil manufacturers don’t think the long drain oil is a free from potential issues as manufacturers claim. This oil had down 5000 miles. It was as black as pitch and smelled. Regardless of any kinds of acid development, there was clear carbon integration that wasn’t being removed by the filter. Carbon is abrasive and contributes to compression ring and valve wear. Given that I’d like to keep my vehicle a while (and my last RRC was sold running fine with 1.1million kilometres on it), I think this relatively inexpensive maintenance program is acceptable - and much cheaper than a new set of rings or valve guide tenaioners.

[@fabulousoffroaddesigns5080]

@@shedlock2000 while it is debatable I may have to take back my statement. If you are actually the type of person to drive your cars over a million kilometers you may see the benefit from all this expense and added environmental impact. I guess I do something similar as I use 25,000 km rated oil that the dealer changes at the specified 16,000 km interval. I do recapture this oil to use in our kids car which uses some oil. The truth of the matter is modern engines carry twice as much oil as older engines did. This alone allows them to go twice as long/far and end up with the same particle count as earlier designs. It is also true that oil today is much better at suspending particles and maintaining superior lubricity. It does darken faster because none of the carbon settles in the sump with modern synthetic oils like it used to in conventional oil. You should look at a propane or LNG conversion. That will keep your oil clean! I've been considering it for my truck.

[@shedlock2000]

@@fabulousoffroaddesigns5080 I don’t think I’ll be converting Finn while he’s under warrantee! I had some gas (propane) powered things back in the U.K. years ago. I didn’t mind them, but they were fussy and the tanks were always in the way.

[@Pandora882]

love the bent Tundish

[@shedlock2000]

hahahah! Keen eye! A good tundish will serve many owners! This is a garage sale find that’s served me well for 15 years here!

[@Pandora882]

@@shedlock2000 I also admire your patience with Load Lane

[@shedlock2000]

Thanks! I have been an enthusiast for a long time. I must admit to preferring the marque when they were a bit more farm-orientated and a little less wall-street. But I still love their stuff.

[@atoieno]

"It might all spill out of here in a right mess" but fortunately in this case definitely not like the 300Tdi filter change!!!

[@shedlock2000]

😅😅🤣 Yeah, fortunately not like the old rangy V8 either! Lol

[@bordercanoe]

My td5 engine still has clean engine oil after 5k. It is still translucent. Even at 10k it is a dark amber when I change it. I would be concerned with the oil being that colour.

[@shedlock2000]

Agreed. I don't like to see such dark oil in an engine; the contaminant levels must be higher if the oil is darker. That contaminant must, over time, damage the engine.

[@MrConstanzo]

Please add the oil filter torque value.

[@shedlock2000]

I actually don’t know what it is! I usually take it until it starts to bind, then I add about 45° of turn.

[@swdman1234]

Many thanks for the vlog. Aspects of maintenance that JLR conveniently don't promote. Found you by chance on the Defender Forum. Shades of Fred Dibnah going on here, even down to the flat cap. I don't suppose you have a whippet as well? How long you been out there?

[@shedlock2000]

Thanks!! No whippets here, just a border collie! More farmer than steeplejack! Lol oddly enough, I’ve not long had the flat cap - I’ve sort of grown into it these days (must be the beard)! Thanks for sliding your the channel and for subscribing! I hope I’m providing useful content.

[@paulhoppe4596]

I love your videos. Sorry for the silly question but what watch are you wearing?

[@shedlock2000]

In this video I am wearing a Bremont ALT1 ZT-BK with a custom made Land Rover Nato from @GasGasBones. I sold it a while back, and now wear a SM300 from Omega.

[@secpac58chichi]

Landy says 2 years 21000 miles between changes

[@shedlock2000]

They do - which is the point of my analysis video. I don’t believe that’s a good service interval, as shown by the oil sample analysis. Additionally, extending service intervals that far has been shown to negatively affect the second/third users, as wear limits are exceeded at an earlier age increasing failures at a later stage (though not experienced by the early owners). This can be demonstrated by the issues in the AJV8 timing chains as well as the failure of the ‘non-serviceable’ ZF6HP26 - almost all of which suffer from transmission shudder (leading to failure) over 150,000 miles and ZF (the manufacturer) indicate service at 75,000 miles.

[@secpac58chichi]

@@shedlock2000 yes i guess i would worry about it if it wasnt a 3 year 36k mile lease - never own this dog long-term

[@shedlock2000]

I understand the perspective, but this is kinda my point. Regular and short service intervals look after the vehicle and the next owner. You’re kinda thinking of them and of the reputation of the marque; it’s good practice, good form, and mindful of the next owners (whomever they may be). Are you not having much luck with yours either?

[@sriharivaila7276]

Nice informative video .But do you get genuine parts for the defender.

[@shedlock2000]

Hi Srihari, Thank you! I appreciate the thought and thanks for taking the time to comment. Yes, I always use genuine Land Rover parts and oils for the services (especially while under warranty). Recently, I have done a service on my L322 (new acquisition) and used Mobil 1 to flush out the old oil. While this oil was in I ran a less expensive Fram filter -- however, these were fitted only because the Mobil 1 was being used as an engine flush. When I flushed the engine, I installed the proper Castrol Edge Professional and a Genuine Land Rover filter. Here is the link to that video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZykiH-Ee7xgnpI When the vehicle's warranty expires, I think it is safe to down-grade to the Castrol Edge (not the Edge Professional), as the only real difference between the two oils is a ultraviolet dye used to track oil changes; Mahle filters can also be used at this point, as they are the manufacturer of the filters for JLR and are thus OEM filters. When it comes to anything else (parts wise) I only use JLR parts or OEM parts (whichever I can get a better deal on). For instance, I will be replacing the brakes on my L322 shortly. The pads I will use are EDC Green stuff pads, because they are better than the OE and the discs (rotors) will come directly from JLR as they are cheaper than buying directly from Brembro! I shall also be replacing my control arms for the L322 in the next week or so, but these came OEM from a supplier in the UK because they were 1/3 the price as they were from JLR.

[@b9625bb]

What is the right engine oil for 2021 ingenium diesel range rover sport?

[@shedlock2000]

I’m afraid I can’t help you there! We (sadly) don’t get the diesels out here, so I’m not familiar with them.

[@b9625bb]

@@shedlock2000 no problem , all the best 🙏🏻🙏🏻

[@CH-wc4ty]

Can you provide insight into removing drain plug from the sump please and thanks

[@shedlock2000]

I’ll be doing this in my next oil change video! I’ll have to clock some more miles first, though!

[@CH-wc4ty]

@@shedlock2000 Thanks! Another thing that popped into my head, is there any mileage reset required? The manual is really horrible and my dealer Has not been to helpful.

[@shedlock2000]

No option to reset the mileage at the moment (I’m assuming you meant the oil interval reset). That’s still a factory computer thing.

[@secpac58chichi]

@@shedlock2000 there is a procedure using the throttle pedal and brake pedal and having hood and drivers door open

[@shedlock2000]

@@secpac58chichi yes, I’m assuming it’s the same as the D5 - but I haven’t learned it yet! Lol

[@danegilliam544]

Well done… what is the brand of your vacuum pump? I cannot find one that offers both manual and air operated options.

[@shedlock2000]

I bought mine from Princess Auto! It’s made by Power Fist (which is their own brand). I am sure there would be some similar on Amazon, but I haven’t looked.

[@fredmccluskey2042]

It appears similar to JTC Tools JTC-1050. Curious about what size and length the extractor tube is?

[@UporaFilms]

Hey Shedlock2000, is that a normal size garage you have Finn inside? I was asking around if these Defenders will fit in an average size garage with the expedition roof and perhaps a top tent and some have been saying there is no clearance, even with the expedition roof.

[@shedlock2000]

It sort of depends what country you’re in! It’s on the small size for Canada - it’s only 24’ wide. However, it has a 7’ door, which is half the battle for expedition racks. I can actually drive in with the Milwaukee box and gerry cans on the roof!

[@UporaFilms]

@@shedlock2000 dang 24' wide is pretty nice, thats almost a 3 car garage no? My door is 7' as well. Amazing that you can drive it in with the cans on top. Did you have to lower it to access height? how many inches tall are your cans from the expedition rack?

[@shedlock2000]

Well, by the time I’ve crammed all my junk in to it, it’ won’t fit two land rovers in side by side! Well, it does, but there’s a big pile of wood in the way at the moment! Even without it, though, there’s only just enough room to squeeze out of one vehicle at a time. The fuel cans are 10” off the rack, and the vehicle backs in in regular height. It must be close to the garage door, but it doesn’t catch!

[@UporaFilms]

@@shedlock2000 Ooo that is good news to know! Thank you sir! Whats the length or depth of your garage? It looks like you have a good bit of room to work with from the hood to the tables against the wall.

[@shedlock2000]

I have to sneak the defender right up against the garage door - but when I do I’ve about 28” in between the grill and the bench. It’s not a lot of space (there could always be more garage space), but it’s good enough for most jobs.

[@bordercanoe]

Wow .. yellow gunk in cap. Alarm bells... .......ffs. And black oil too. Mmmmmmm. Good luck in 5 years.

[@shedlock2000]

Yeah, I was quite surprised. The oil quality was reasonable, but the analysis showed that there were contaminates. The gunk in the cap is a bit odd for a new engine, but not unheard of in these cold climates (-40°c) due to the oils being bashed about while very cold.

[@mattdavies3023]

Sorry..$73 for an oil filter? 😬

[@shedlock2000]

Hahaha! I don’t think it’s $73 - I was exaggerating a bit and hinting at JLR’s world-famous spares prices! I’ll try and find a price for you - but I think they’re usually twice the price of a Fram.

[@mattdavies3023]

@@shedlock2000 I remember them well from my Defender 😂

[@shedlock2000]

@@mattdavies3023 😆😆😣