Is a Global Shutter Better than HSS Flash?

Watch part 2 here: • Global Shutter vs HSS ...
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[@FStoppers]

⚡The Westcott FJ80 SE M Flash: ➡www.fjwestcott.com/products/fj80-se-m-universal-80ws-speedlight 📷The new Sony A9iii Camera with global shutter: ➡www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?q=sony+a9+iii&BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=658019-20912 Enter Our Photography Contest Here: ➡fstoppers.com/critique-community/unique-lighting This month only! Illuminating the Face for $49 this month only: ➡ fstoppers.com/product/peter-hurley-illuminating-face Subscribe to the Fstoppers KZbin Channel: ➡kzbin.info Our Gear: 📷 and 🎥Workflow Recommendations: 🥰Our Favorite Gear ➡bhpho.to/3Q5pm01 💻Software📀 Adobe Creative Cloud ➡ bit.ly/3hjVXdE Boris FX Optics: ➡bit.ly/3N83bD6 Luminar Neo ➡ skylum.evyy.net/M6RAM Capture One ➡ captureone.38d4qb.net/NO29q 🛒🏪🛍 Support Fstoppers by shopping at: B&H Photo and Video ➡ bit.ly/3K7CrlX Amazon ➡ amzn.to/3hkTEXS 📸Follow Fstoppers on Instagram: ➡ instagram.com/officialfst... Follow Lee and Patrick's Puerto Rico Instagram: ➡ instagram.com/fstopperspr/

[@markabbott638]

Really well done and informative. You've taken some fairly technical knowledge and made it generally comprehensible.

[@FStoppers]

Generally haha. Thanks! The next video is much more difficult to digest the data. -P

[@PaulBawby]

Very interesting and informative. Im looking forward to watching part II. Thanks for sharing 🙂

[@devklepacki]

Just love such a nitty gritty details! I would have never thought that the flash actually needs SOME time to put out its' full power, wow!

[@redrei9]

Best explanation of HSS I've ever seen thx!❤

[@mauriciolee7349]

Oh mine! mine! I don't remember how many videos about Global shutter & Flashes I've watched but this is the BEST and UNIQUE on this subject so far. The reasons are as below: 1. Its CLEAR & EASY-to-UNDERSTAND explanation of FLASH DURATION due to the demo graphic & photos used. The way the presenter speaks also helps. This is the first time I truly understand the meaning of FLASH DURATION. He also helps me comprehend why the FLASH with HIGHER OUTPUT does NOT guarantee to produce BRIGHTER photos than the one with lower output. It sounds paradoxical but it's true. 2. As of today May 23rd, 2024 on KZbin, he's the ONLY person who tests the newly released Westcott FJ80 SE M Flash which claims to have Freeze Sync up to 1/50,000s. It's supposed to work well with the global shutter of the Sony A9iii. Does it really work as it claim? I don't know. I have to watch the second video "This Camera Is My New Favorite" before coming to conclusion. Anyway, thanks to Fstoppers for such a great job!

[@FStoppers]

Thanks! To be fair, and I should have talked about this, I only used the Westcott flash in normal mode. It does have a freeze mode with even faster flash duration but I didn’t use that. And to be even more transparent, I measured the flash duration on the Westcott with my Sekonic light meter and the t.1 times I was measuring are significantly faster than what they are publishing which is a good thing. -P

[@ZenoWatson]

Brilliant explanation Patrick

[@uberdruid]

Great explanation. Great first part.

[@wildbill9919]

My old Nikon D40 does this. If you mount a flash that the D40 does not recognize, it will let you select a shutter speed up to 1/4000, and the flashlit part of the image will not black out. Don't know how it works....but it does.

[@TheLordinio]

not sure how exactly the D40 works in that mode since it should still be limited by the mechanical shutter, but it does use a CCD sensor, which are basically all global shutter like the A9III. global shutters are really only new as it relates to CMOS photography cameras. global shutters were arguably the standard once

[@JeahnLaffitte]

I’d love a vid like this on leaf shutters with medium format :)

[@FStoppers]

I still don’t understand how those work. The shutter expands and contracts from the outside in but you’d think that would cause vignetting or a circular sync issue. -P

[@Samtagri]

What a cliffhanger!!! I teach photography and I’m not sure I knew this flash peak time thing

[@se5908]

a ND Filter and a second 80$ flash mounted on a flash bracket solved this problem about 10 years ago for me, no need to spend thousands of dollars...

[@FStoppers]

It’s not about spending more, it’s about all new cameras finally having this tech included. The problem with ND filters is they are a pain to carry, use, and focus through (at times). Also mounting two flashes into a single light modifier is a pain and doesn’t always work easily with certain modifiers. -P

[@InstructorWest]

Great explanations and illustrations.

[@FiistFlaag]

Awesome explanation. I guess now i know why flashes are so expensive

[@mauriciomilenkorodriguezpa617]

Loved this first part!

[@TheLordinio]

btw: it's not watt per second, but watt times second or watt-seconds = joules

[@FStoppers]

Yeah I was speaking off the cuff and messed that up. -P

[@notnikola]

But one thing that isn't mentioned is, that when you are shooting wide open you almost never need 100% flash output, because flash is controlled by aperture, and the wider you go the less power you need

[@thorwaldjohanson2526]

Loved the flash graphs. I wonder if using leds instead of flash lamps would speed up the flash. That might be what those expensive flashes use. I think I have found a new rabbit hole to go down into!

[@FStoppers]

I don’t think LEDs can ever produce more flash power to be beneficial. -P

[@thorwaldjohanson2526]

@@FStoppers you'd definitely need a lot of them, making it expensive.

[@FStoppers]

I don’t think you can even do it. I’ve bought those insane LED lights used in parking lots and in Costco and they literally do nothing outside. -P

[@thorwaldjohanson2526]

@@FStoppers I just did a quick Google search and there seem to be some super fast led flashes on the 500ns-5us range, so significantly faster. However, they are more for Studio use. Having such a short fire duration makes it hard to deliver the same amount of light. But would definitely be possible in a larger package.

[@FStoppers]

Well they not only need fast flash durations but also powerful ones. I’d have to look them up. -P

[@JoATTech]

When second part? :D

[@EduardodeRegules]

Waiting for part 2 👍

[@Romanchaveznyc]

There’s no mention of leaf shutters? The new Hasselblad lenses are 4000th of second sync.

[@Romanchaveznyc]

Also, hss works better with a slower duration, Flash.

[@mathiaspfuetzner]

For one light this is great. The question is, how to adjust the camera with two or more lights. Also, why do you use an APSC-lens on a fullframe camera? ;)

[@FStoppers]

Yes! I’m currently dealing with that now. If you have to set the offset timing for each power setting, how do you choose the correct offset number when you have 2 or 3 flashes? -P

[@renestaempfli1071]

It's no problem with the A9III/SONY flash combo. I use 3 of them in wireless mode. It's a piece of cake.

[@FStoppers]

I wonder how that works. Every flash and flash tube will change the t.1 time when the power setting is altered. So the amount of flash released at full power will be different than 1/2 power or 1/8th power. So if you are shooting at 1/40,000 sec when timing the peak release of flash is critical, the timing wouldn’t necessarily line up with all 3 flashes if they were set to different power settings. Maybe Sony made a flash with a super slow t.1 time that is extremely consistent that allows the flash duration to not be much of a variable. If that is the case, that flash would be less idea for freezing motion like product splash photography in a normal studio setting. I need to find out what they are doing with that flash. I seems like a moot point because what professional photographer wants to only use this one specific Sony speed light? You wouldn’t buy into a system because of a random strobe like that. -P

[@mcbean1]

Just playing around with an 80,000 SS would be fun, especially when I though 8,000 was damn fast

[@marvinkuhn2873]

1:30 how did you get these sync speeds for Sony? Mine have all ways been 1/250 with flashes designed for sony

[@FStoppers]

Just looked up a few different cameras. Obviously the sync speeds aren’t the same through each brand. It’s not a chart to use for reference, more of a visual to understand different cameras have different max sync speeds. -P

[@renestaempfli1071]

It's all automatic with the A9III/SONY flash combo.

[@MartinV.]

Great Video

[@peterthart531]

You made no mention of a Leaf Shutter-which provides other options. Granted, not many of those around (anymore).

[@FStoppers]

I don't think you just add a leaf shutter to your existing camera. Speaking of which, I understand how a leaf shutter works in terms of opening and closing (more or less like an aperture). What I don't understand is why does a leaf shutter not have vignetting from the center to the edge much like a normal shutter has from bottom to top? In other words, how does the leaf shutter get around the sync issue when it only seems to open and shut differently but still has the same physical problem? -P

[@peterthart531]

@@FStoppers You cannot add a global shutter to your existing camera either. Leaf shutter however is one reason I am seriously considering going back to Hasselblad-I left that eco system when digital came. This flash hack has been known forever and modern leaf shutters blow past the 1/500 of the old EL/C cameras of the past. I do wish to you commend you on your explanation of all the tech-well done.

[@FStoppers]

If I remember correctly, medium format cameras with leaf shutters still only sync up to 1/4,000th of a second so it’s only a few more stops than 1/250 (4 stops Infact). This Sony is giving you more than 10 stops at least. In prob 5-10 years all digital cameras will have this global shutter tech built into the latest cameras. I’m not so sure leaf shutters are going to have a resurgence though. -P

[@mikeabcable]

leaf shutter (hasselblad or phase one) is also a solution but not financial solution...

[@godsakes]

I was so disappointed when I found out the base ISO of the A9iii was 250... my Nikon D70s (which also has a global shutter) has a base ISO of 200. If only Nikon held on to that CCD tech for one more generation to make a full frame version

[@JZTechEngineering]

CCD sensors just have worse dynamic range, battery life, readout speed, and cost. A ff version mirrorless would be a v mount battery 10 stop Dr 5 fps 10000 dollar camera. It would just be worse

[@renestaempfli1071]

You obviously never used an A9III. Base ISO 250 is no big issue.

[@godsakes]

@@renestaempfli1071 depends on your use case, if the main point of getting a global shutter is so you can better balance location ambient light with flashes (without using HSS), then a higher base ISO robs you some of that advantage. The moment you're forced into shutter speeds in excess of 1/1000 it's going to start eating into your flash power so it's just a different version of the same problem you get with HSS - don't get me wrong it's still better than HSS but for the money they're asking it's not unreasonable to demand more

[@renestaempfli1071]

@@godsakes yes, it always depends on the use case! But 1 1/3 stop is not a big deal as long as you use the proper flash/camera combination. I can easily shot at 1/80000, f/1.8 and ISO 250 to get proper flash exposure with the A9III and the HVL-F60RM2. There is no way I can do this with A1 at 1/32000 with el. shutter or 1/8000 mechanical. Unfortunately, there is no flash that properly communicates with the camera and the flash, to use the available flash energy in the most efficient way, except the A9III/HVL-F60RM2 combo. I have tested Godox V1, Elinchrom in HySync, Broncolor Satos 3200 and HVL-F60RM2 with the A9, A1 and A9III. The A9III is by far the most advanced camera SONY ever produced. Not only for flash. GS has many more advantages than rolling shutter sensors.

[@godsakes]

@@renestaempfli1071 Not familiar with the HVL-F60RM2 but sounds promising... but as you acknowledge that's a limited combo currently. For my own use case I'd need something akin to a godox ad200 to dump it's power within it's likely used shutter speed (for the sake of argument let's just say within 1/4000s)

[@martinezq1]

Is there any small, mini flash like gn20 for electronic shutter camera like zve10m2 ?

[@Dan-yy7lk]

I assume you'll cover having to sacrifice ISO values with global shutter in the next video? Native ISO on A9 III is 250 as apposed to 100 for most camera, or even 64 for pro Nikons. So you do loose a little dynamic range.

[@donaldfadel2767]

You didn’t mention 2 other options: Neutral density (variable traditionally) and HySync. I’ve always preferred HySync

[@donaldfadel2767]

Ok I didn’t watch far enough … my bad

[@FStoppers]

Yes Hyper sync is another option. Unlike a global shutter that requires a super fast flash duration, hyper sync actually requires a super slow flash duration if I remember correctly. So you need the worst flashes to achieve that and then if you want to freeze action with strobes in a studio environment, those flashes won’t be great. -P

[@renestaempfli1071]

Yes, HySync on the Elinchrom is a better solution than HSS. Some of the heads just use a longer flash duration. But this solution is far from the capabiities of cameras with GS. You can only use them with single shots. I have several of them.

[@mynameisben123]

1. Yes it’s better 2. This particular camera has other compromises though

[@FStoppers]

Before I release my results, I’m curious what specifically do you think makes a global shutter better? -P

[@renestaempfli1071]

Such as .....?

[@harryvuemedia]

I prefer a Global Shutter. I used to use HSS a lot and sometimes I do use it when its necessary. But I do hate using it now because it cuts my flash power in half. 600 watt would be 300 watt thus not allowing me to use the full power of my flash strobes. Then I would have to move my strobes closer to my subject. Yes, i can work around this limitations by putting an ND filter on but its also annoying as heck to keep switching between ND filters and lenses. Thus why I would love to use a Global Shutter sensor to shoot at any sync speed without sacrificing flash power.

[@FStoppers]

Well this is what my test is going to test. What shutter speed are you using? As I mention in my video, once the shutter becomes faster than the T.1 time, you are going to start losing flash power with a global shutter too. Unfortunately, there is no free lunch. -P

[@The_Idea_of_Dream_Vision]

What are u shooting at 600w??

[@harryvuemedia]

@@The_Idea_of_Dream_Vision Shooting from a distance. I don't always have my strobe within 5 feet of my subject. There are situations where we are 10+ feet away and need the full power to lit them enough.

[@harryvuemedia]

@@FStoppers There would be no point in buying a 600w flash strobe if we're always in HSS. Since the power will be cut at least in half, you're only getting 300w out of it. Might as well spend less, get a 300w flash strobe and use ND filters. Unless you're shooting a lot of fast moving subject, then yes, get a 600w. I don't need my shutter speed to go beyond 1/4,000 but to also be able to use an E-shutter to capture the portraits is pretty darn great. When we sell our camera, we always have to include the shutter count but with a GS sensor, we don't have to worry about that anymore. And my shutter speed is always 1/160 to 1/250. I only go over that when I have to shoot action portraits or get my exposure to -1.

[@FStoppers]

I mean, if you put a 2 stop ND on your lens, you are now making the 300 ws strobe a 75ws strobe. I’m not sure I understand your proposition. A more powerful strobe would always been more desirable when using both HSS and NDs. Am I misunderstanding something? Also, I’ve never shot fast moving subjects with HSS but the fact that HSS works by pulsing a light and using multiple bursts, I would think that would be a bad choice for lighting right? Would there not be a sort of rolling shutter effect? The global shutter with a super powerful strobe with a fast t.1 time would seem like the best option. -P

[@stephen-ng]

I think the sad part is that most just snap a frame from a hi-def video and use that as the "photograph" these days.

[@ralphgeronilla]

There’s a reason you don’t see any high end photographers getting the A9iii. Dynamic Range and High Megapixels are way more important. And as far as video, there’s a selection of dedicated cinema cameras with global shutter.

[@harryvuemedia]

Wrong dude. Just spitting out fake bias information. The a9-iii is a sports camera first and 24 mp is the sweet spot for it. Eventually Sony is going to bring their Global Shutter sensor to their a7R, a7 and a1 series which will cover the high megapixels and dynamic range. You're trying everything you can to put Sony down but hey, at least you tried.

[@FStoppers]

I need to do an ISO test. I feel like all ISO is bullshit at this point. We just did that big print test video and I feel the same is true with ISO noise. If you print an image with pretty good digital noise seen on your monitor, most of it won't be seen in the print. It's the most overrated thing over dynamic range. All these cameras are so freaking good at both, but we should test it. -P

[@renestaempfli1071]

It depends what you call a high end photographer. I have never seen a high end photographer, using a Hasselblad, PhaseOne or a Fujifilm GFX 100 ii at a sports event or concert. Likewise, one seldom goes shopping with a semi trailer.

[@jacobbatterham]

When shooting outside with flash and shutter needs to be 1/200 why not just use an nd filter?

[@henri.witteveen]

Why are you referring to you flash output as watt per second of w/s instead of watt second or ws or Ws. Watt per second is a non existing unit. The correct unit is Ws or J (joules) which is the unit of energy and is basically the amount of energy stored the flash capacitor.

[@FStoppers]

I just misspoke as I was talking off the cuff. You are right, it’s watt seconds. -P

[@hansch-n1h]

what about nd filter?

[@FStoppers]

What about it? -P

[@franknurnberger1102]

Problem with an ND-Filter: focussing more difficult and for a 4times ND filter you need a flashhead 4times as powerful.

[@TimChung-ey3zh]

Does this really need two separate 20 minute videos? I feel like the viewers who clicked on this video are generally knowledgable about this topic and don't need max sync speed and HSS explained to us..

[@Deatarus51]

Yeah, glad I sped to 2x and played it in the background waiting to see the results that never came. It's a really good explanation for those that don't know though. Just wish there was a "this is what we're covering here, results in the next video" waaaaay earlier...

[@FStoppers]

I tell you within the first 2 mins that this video is going to cover how they work and then in part 2 we see the results. I feel like all of this needs to be explained before I address the results and putting it at the end of a 18 min video seemed like it wouldn’t get as much attention as it should. -P

[@Deatarus51]

@@FStoppers crap, that you did. I skipped a chunk of the intro as I usually do. My bad. Great video! lol

[@amcluesent]

Woah, slow down Professor!

[@_Just_Some1]

Hey. You stole my avatar. Haha.

[@woodylinder338]

when using HS flash, I don't believe it is "pulsing." I think it just on for the duration of the shutter movement. got some great shots of hummingbirds using that method. actually had a master and 2 slaves.

[@FStoppers]

It's most likely pulsing. When you do it on the Nikon system you can definitely see the pulses. Pulses work because at say 1/8th power, every pulse can be the same brightness and color temp. One method I didn't mention is Hypersync which does use the tail end of the flash duration to act as a longer duration / constant light. The issue with Hypersync is exactly what I described; it has color differences and uneven illumination across the frame because the single flash pop isn't the same brightness throughout time. -P

[@rcdhi1g]

#Global #Shuter for #Canon #EOSR for all #canon #camera , and more lens for thirds party lens S for #Fullframe for #canon for this year or next .

[@doncooper2344]

A global shutter addresses a number of issues. This one seems minor. You can use a variable ND filter which will do the job and, since it has other uses, you probably want it anyway. So there is an alternative solution. Not the case for some kinds of (flickering) lights or when you need to use an electronic shutter for fast motion (propellers or hummingbird wings).

[@renestaempfli1071]

Not really when flash is the only option. In some cases, it can be done, using ND filter with some fiddling. For these cases, with the A9III/SONY combo, you just put the flash into the hot shoe, expose for the background an press the shutter in TTL mode. You will get a perfect picture. It's that simple. The ND filter is of no use, when you have fast moving objects at high shutter speed, open aperture and say 10-20 pictures/sec.

[@doncooper2344]

@@renestaempfli1071 You put the ND filter on, dial in how many stops you want, and then expose for the background. No different than a normal exposure. You can use TTL if you want (I wouldn't). Your example of using flash with high shutter speeds in a burst of 10-20 shots has lost me completely. Flash doesn't work for bursts because the flash unit needs time to recover after each shot. Finally, if you're using flash to freeze action, your shutter speed should be 1/200s or slower. The flash not the shutter will freeze the action.

[@renestaempfli1071]

@@doncooper2344 Just get an A9III and an HVL-F60RM2 and try it out. Then we have a basis to talk about it intelligently.

[@doncooper2344]

@@renestaempfli1071 There are some pretty good books on how flash/strobes work. That might help.

[@renestaempfli1071]

@@doncooper2344 Thanks for your info. I have a good understanding of using flash with non GS as well as with the A9III GS. In the past 3 month, I have shot everal tousend pictures with various flash heads from SONY HVL-F60RM2 all the way up to Broncolor Satos 3200 with the A9III in NoHSS mode. Also I shot more than 30'000 pictures during the past 3 month at several rock concerts under fast changing light conditions without flash at high shutter speed and ISO without flash on the A9III. So I do know a little bit about GS, flash and flickering.

[@motionblurgamer]

I don’t shoot much with flashes outside, but couldn’t you also use an ND filter? Am I missing something? Edit: I need to stop commenting before watching the entire video. That said, I felt it would have been natural to mention ND filters earlier.

[@JoATTech]

My flash tells me t0.1 on the screen. What is interesting at full power it's 1/220 sec, so slower than my fastest sync speed of the camera. Fun fact ... Sony cripples their APS-C cameras on purpose putting there 1/160 max sync speed. So if you like flash photography you have to buy their FF to have more flexibility :(.

[@FStoppers]

I guess that remaining 10% does affect the shutter that much? If you shoot a white wall, is there falloff when shooting at full power at 1/250? -P

[@JoATTech]

@@FStoppers I have to check it, but cranking from 1/2 the power to 1/1 haven't given me expected results with this particular light. So I checked t0.1 and this might the be answer. The curve at full power also is usually less steep, so the power loss might be bigger. And I often solve it by switching to 1/200s :D.

[@rst108]

or you can use ND filter.

[@bananabear009]

Haha, I thought it's sponsored by Sony. Free promotion for Sony this time! LOL

[@FStoppers]

It's the only mirrorless camera we have that has a global shutter. -P

[@AlmightyUniden]

Photographers will do everything but use an ND filter

[@steelehousephotography8524]

I don't get it 😂 NiSi true color is so good! I never use HSS

[@harryvuemedia]

I use ND filters right now when I shoot at F/1.4. But its annoying as heck to keep taking them off and on for different lenses. I have to carry 2x cameras and 2x Nisi filters so that I dont lose time.

[@steelehousephotography8524]

@@harryvuemedia That's why I use the 🐐 of lenses! The Tamron 35-150 is the greatest lens ever made!!

[@351linzdoctor]

I wish someone would used Sony's own HVL-60RM2 flash with the A9iii since it is compatible fully with the camera when doing these kind of test! Why not use it to get the maximum performance out of the A9iii?

[@FStoppers]

I can get one for a test. Do you know what it does differently? I would think all flashes are confined to the exact same physics. It has to have a faster flash duration to squeeze as much flash into a super fast shutter. I’ll look up the t.1 times when I get to a computer but there doesn’t seem to be any way around this. -P

[@351linzdoctor]

@@FStoppers This video at 9min 28 secs a small segment is what I'm talking about it's from Chris Nichols shooting at 1/80000th of a sec into a very bright backlight shot and at f1.8 and the flash to subject distance looks to be 25 to 30 ft and the shot is lit perfect with the Sony Flash on the hot shoe! The flash has no problem putting out enough light I'm certain I saw Chris shoot more photos like this with a model against a glass building and he was controlling the ambient light really well. Ask Chris if he remembers. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pn-qfZuKeb6jj68

[@renestaempfli1071]

Yes, I absolutely agree with you. Unfortunately, many are sponsored by Westcott or other Companies producing flashes. On top of it, they have a mediocre understanding of the A9III, or worse, never used one in scenarios, for which the camera was build. I came to this site, just to see what they have to say. Unfortunately, there are a lot of clueless comments made by clueless people about the A9III, GS and Flash.

[@351linzdoctor]

@@renestaempfli1071 Agree I shot portraits with a Minolta Dimage A1 that had a global shutter and shooting fill flash at high shutter speeds with almost no lost of flash output was very, very nice!

[@raruteam]

I'm new to photography so maybe this is a dumb quesion but can´t you use a continuos light instead of a flash?

[@FStoppers]

I’ve always thought about making a video about this concept. A continuous light is no where near as powerful as a strobe. If you had to use a continuous light outside in the middle of the day, you’d need a whole set of those massive movie production lights with generators. An LED will literally do nothing outside unless the light is really low like blue hour. -P

[@henri.witteveen]

yes you can. But you will need a tremendous amount of power to get a similar output as a flash. You can of course also adjust you exposure setting to the capability of you continuous light.

[@FStoppers]

This really isn’t possible in any condition other than early sunrise or post sunset. The amount of power you need to make an LED light effective at say the sunny 16 rule is enoirmous. No average photographer is going to have access to that sort of power in LEDs.

[@FStoppers]

We actually made a video about this. The light Lee used here was insanely bright and even then it only worked when placed 5 feet away at 4:30pm. No way it would have done much at noon or if he added a light modifier to it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pmqtlZiVorCdg9Esi=B4hwaMokQXJrUdur -P

[@harryvuemedia]

You sure can! But like everyone else had said in here, you better bring a generator or find a power source to power them strobes. A 300watt LED already needs huge amount of power. I think 120v and you can't use external battery with it. 600 watt LED light would be freaking crazy!!!

[@canturgan]

Or you could use Nd filters. Much cheaper.

[@jeffrey3205]

He was talking about you 😂

[@JoATTech]

Great video, but looks like you forgot about existence of ND filters :D. They are the third option.

[@JoATTech]

To early :D

[@denisbellerose273]

Sujet très intéressant, d'ailleurs James Quantz Jr a fait un bon vidéo là-dessus. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4GrnXuZo5mVi80

[@krelovfranklin]

17mins and the real issue hasn't been addressed yet. Any photographer knows this already

[@FStoppers]

Maybe this video wasn’t made for photographers who already know. The second video will show more; it just seemed wrong putting those results at the end of 17 mins. -P

[@poikatiikeri]

click bate. Video does not answer the question