FUJIFILM Film Simulations & JPEG settings (includes Presets) - Part 2

[@goat2503]

I can definitely see the sense in the idea of programming just two film simulations with different contrasting options before a shoot. Not a bad thought at all.

[@MarkHolmes1]

Entirely agree about the need for bracketing recipes. One raw a and multiple conversions would be preferred too. Thanks for the video.

[@JohnArmstrongPhotography]

Thanks Mark, would be good.

[@hammingdistance]

Thanks for your work on this and true words. Not having access to self developed recipes in the bracketing option is so sad.

[@JohnArmstrongPhotography]

Thanks for your time and I appreciate your kind words, glad you enjoyed.

[@tonymurphy9112]

Definitely makes sense, let's hope Fujifilm listen to your recommendations 👌🇿🇦

[@JohnArmstrongPhotography]

Cheers Tony, thanks for your time and support.

[@AbdulRasheed-xy7fq]

Very well explained. thanks for sharing

[@leightonsmith8092]

How have you only got 8k subs! This is by far the most informative channel I've come across, I've been toying with Fuji and Olympus, I only want to shoot jpeg I dont like photo editing so looking for the best system to suit me and so far I'm toying to Fuji! Thankyou

[@josecolon8143]

I agree, only 1 raw is needed on Fsb and we should be able to use custom Fs for brackets not only the presented by Fuji! Brother I’m learning so much! Love from the Caribbean

[@JohnArmstrongPhotography]

Cheers José, glad to hear.

[@paulm8157]

Never tried simulation bracketing. Will re-view vid and give it a go.

[@fjzingo]

Great series, after playing around with capture one, lightroom and fujis raw tool the in camera processor/fuji raw processor comes out as a clear winner for subtle changes. For more elaborate changes to save badly shot images or images with big contrast LR and C1 really helps. I really wouldn’t mind if the shadows and highligtrange was a bit wider on the camera. Perhaps first raw conversion in fujiraw followed by subtle jpeg processing in LR could be a way to go? Must test the dynamic range settings which you showcase here, have many pictures which could have been saved using that function. Really good insict how to use the Q menu, inspiring- keep up the good work really enjoying youre work! Back to edit those animal pics from Serengeti....

[@JohnArmstrongPhotography]

Cheers Fredrik, wow Serengeti, now that’s an enjoyable edit. Thanks for your time and comment. What I’ve worked out is that the current highlights and shadows in camera are really more of a contrast adjustment, no change in gain, while in LR and capture one, when raising shadows or bringing back highlights to the extreme, that’s more of a gain adjustment. So raising your shadows in post software with images taken on modern ISO invariant sensors, is equivalent to raising ISO in the shadows, same thing. That’s why, in my opinion, highlights and shadows cannot be extended in camera and rather the dynamic range has to be used, allowing the push in ISO gain for dynamic range. So if you can get a good workflow using Dynamic range or priority, you’ll get closer to the LR or capture one look. Obviously with non of the other features found in software. Thanks

[@fjzingo]

Thanks for clarifying, so in essence, to gain more control of highlights and shadows in postprod software one could have two sliders for shadows and higlights or really an x/y diagram wit gain and contrast? But that is perhaps what you in essence do when editing different parts of the tone curve. Have you noticed any difference in clarity or sharpness of the focused object or any other caveats shooting dynamic priority?

[@gossedejong9248]

thank you!!

[@shy-guy5544]

Nice video. I shoot raw+jpeg and choose dynamic range priority auto, which you didn’t mention. I find that it nearly always selects ISO 320, which is equivalent to dynamic range priority weak. Do you think that I should use dynamic range priority strong to obtain the maximum dynamic range, even though I would have to shoot at ISO 640? Thanks

[@josecolon8143]

🔥🔥🔥🔥

[@jan-martinulvag1962]

So minus 2 in shadow gives more light in shadow. I am so stupid I thought it was the opposite. X-T100 and X-A5 is oversharp in camera. Vegetation looks like bladder wrack