Fujifilm Dynamic Range Settings

Dynamic range setting on Fujifilm XT2, XT3, and XT4 cameras for still photography and video. Dynamic range is a complex topic that involves ISO, camera processing, and RAW files. There's more to learn and future videos will explore the topic in additional detail.
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[@at016]

I have been a Fuji shooter for more than 5 years now and this is the first time someone is explaining this to me in a clear and concise way. Thank you.

[@shivhaaha]

I bought many paid tutorials of Fujifilm, NO ONE explained how Dynamic Range works! Finally learnt form GOOD Teacher. @Pal2tech I enjoy all of you R&D video about Fujifilm!!! THANK YOU !

[@MiraRK69]

You bought PAID tutorials? I do not want to disappoint you, but bro, you was scammed. :(

[@AlexB-km7os]

Shoot progressive grayscale picture. Then compare to what you see on screen. Paying for that is dumb.

[@jpavakian]

By a clear mile, you’re my favorite Fujifilm related channel. Thanks for the amazing tips and videos.

[@pal2tech]

Wow, thanks!

[@equisetuminc]

Same here. I come from an engineering background and like when the information is clear, concise, and - entertaining. Thanks pal2tech

[@SamBorgman]

@@equisetuminc Tell me something. Have you been overwhelmed by the menu of Fuji camera? I've never had problem figuring out an electronic device before this and it's been upsetting lol. If as an engineer you've struggled too, it would make me feel better about it lol I bought my XT4 like 2 weeks ago and I'm still figuring out the settings. I see endless opportunities where the menus could've been made much clearer. How is DR 100% and 200% just 1 stop apart. You'd think it doubles the range. That's just one example.

[@K13-X]

Just a mile, new Fuji user here and this guy seems like a god at this point 😂

[@reflux043]

​@@pal2tech As a newbie, at 5:28, what happens if you set dynamic range to 200%, then shoot below 320 ISO? I don't understand that part.

[@bardofhighrenown]

I definitely turned DR 400% on after seeing the results. What I really like about this feature (at least in the firmware I have), it doesn't limit your ISO when you have 400% DR enabled, but instead will put an icon on screen to let you know that you're only getting 100% or 200%, so that way I can shoot below 640 if I need too without digging through the menus to disable it and missing the shot.

[@oscarabello84]

Dont affect Raw?

[@madfinntech]

Exactly! No brainer feature to use.

[@CarlosHBolivarB]

Finally someone explains this clearly! Thank you!

[@jhantushankar]

"Pal2Tech, your videos are always a masterclass in blending science, pragmatism, and depth! Your ability to break down complex photography concepts while keeping it practical and engaging is unmatched. This video, in particular, showcases your expertise and dedication to helping photographers truly understand their craft. Keep up the fantastic work!"

[@frankzhao8352]

Wow, mind blowing. Thanks so much for the detailed explanation! I have never understood the raw file effects and I've shot at DR 100% for the past 6 years. I am just now realizing for almost all my applications, I should have been using DR 200 or 400. Fuji's xtrans filter does such a good job with noise that for almost everything except still landscapes, the noise tradeoff is negligible. This video should be a must see for any fujifilm owner

[@bh9262]

Me too!

[@Wuschti]

Haha me too, I always thought it only affects JPEGs and also that DR100% means already more DR than "off". Thank you @pal2tech I've learned a lot today.

[@beyourownboyfriend]

I have been shooting Fuji for 3 years and really never understood this until now. Thank you as always!!!

[@danielkissler506]

The marshmallow-highlight-LR transformation was smooth! Nice one! @02:00

[@latexgeneration]

You provide the most useful Fujifilm info on KZbin. Thank you!

[@markc.6724]

Incredible!!! Been hearing for years that this has no effect on RAW files!! Even from Fujifilm ambassadors. Thank you for this informative video!

[@brianfitzrealty]

Same here. I’ve always left mine at 100%. Not anymore!

[@JohnArmstrongPhotography]

I’m no longer an ambassador, but I am one who said that DR has no benefit to RAW files. So yes you are seeing a difference in the RAW images shot at different DR setting in post production, so the presumption is that there is benefit, but that is incorrect. If you are shooting RAW, you would not shoot those images in that way, you would shoot to protect your highlight, then in post, raise your shadow by two stops. Which is exactly the same thing as DR400. So for example the marshmallow image should never be shot that way in RAW in first place, you should protect your highlights, making sure you got detail remaining in your shadows to push in post. DR settings are designed for JPG shooting, which is not relying on post production.

[@ericzager6548]

@@JohnArmstrongPhotography How does "protect the hilights" match up against "expose to the right?" Is ETR outdated? Or is the idea to do both, exposing to the right as far as possible without risking the hilights?

[@JohnArmstrongPhotography]

@@ericzager6548 thanks Eric, protecting your highlights is effectively the same thing as “expose to the right.” By exposing to the right, you are choosing to protect or prioritize your highlights over your shadows, but most of the time with modern cameras, you can maintain a high level of shadow detail and protect highlights. If you wanted a high key image, with lots of details in the shadows and wanted or didn’t mind blowing out your highlights for a particular look, you’d be effectively exposing to the left. To use DR settings with RAW is to fundamentally not understand what RAW gives you and how to shoot it. DR settings bake in an exposure adjustment to different parts of your image in camera. In the examples in this video, both marshmallow and window, they are exposed to the left. If a low key image is what is required, rather lower your exposure in camera, protecting highlights, then as you see fit, raise your mid tones and shadows, creating the look you want in post.

[@jwanger142]

@@JohnArmstrongPhotography but didn’t he use the exact same F stop/SS/ISO for all three exposures but only changing from DR100 to 200 to 400? Thus bringing the RAW from the 3 shots into LR or C1 and then we saw that even tho all 3 had the same triangle they definitely processed differently.

[@DOS_Nostalgia]

I’ve been a Fujifilm shooter since 2014 and have watched a lot of fujifilm videos but I’ve only recently discovered your channel. You are the first to explain this function well and I’ve been impressed with your other videos as well. Keep up the great work!

[@dontbreaktheshadowofmylove]

since i got an x e4 this channel has been my bible to understand (i'm coming from 135 film). this man's doing god's work

[@jamesratterreedesign2926]

I don't know if I am more impressed with the great explanation of DR or that smores were used to explain it.

[@Aalochak]

Excited about the F-log video 😍

[@edbertcadavero14]

Use only for daytime. Do not use on nigh time. Use HLG instead.

[@nehaanil2189]

@@edbertcadavero14 Is flog really that bad at night? I bought the XT3 for making shorts, but with the corona it has delayed my projects. My concern with using Flog during the day and HLG during the night scenes, is matching them perfectly in post. What are your thoughts?

[@edbertcadavero14]

@@nehaanil2189 on FLOG some noises can be seen on the dark area when you start grading your footages unless you have a good lights but better avoid FLOG at night. if you value your time.

[@TheJeremydinazareth]

when I see your videos, beyond the very interesting contents, I notice how every little thing starting from the body language is effective to create interest and grow the channel. an impressive job.

[@billjohnstonjr.1037]

Yours is the best discussion of Dynamic Range and DR setting on Fuji cameras that I've seen. Thank you.

[@shifteleven]

Thanks for showing this off. What's also fun is to compare a properly exposed raw image with DR400 at ISO 640 to an image underexposed by two stops at ISO 160. If you take the ISO 160 and raise the exposure by two stops, you get the same image as the DR 400. And if you lower the exposure of the DR 400 by two stops you get the ISO 160 image. That's because that's how DR works. It underexposes the image (to protect those highlights) and then saves that raw file with metadata that tells editing tools to boost the base exposure by two stops. At least that was my experience when I used programming libraries to read and demosaic fuji files (thanks dcraw) with the DR setting.

[@alihammad6318]

This is an excellent video and really shows the strength of this sensor. I've been using this to get amazing dynamic range in 8 bit with my Fuji XT30, without having to use F-Log. I'm a Mechanical engineering student with an interest in signal processing, I can dive into more technical details here. I'm mainly a video guy so I'll have more relevant info there. Fuji's modern sensors are what is called ISO invariant (as most people know). That includes the Xt2 and XT3 and all the cameras in between. So basically they do not "add" noise from raising the ISO, they amplify the existing ANALOG signal (up to a certain point). All sensors create noise, even at base ISO. Just at that level it is so far below the shadows as it's not amplified. So shooting at ISO 160 and raising it to 800 is the same as shooting at ISO 800. The sensor doesn't have any "read noise", or extra noise resulting from the signal boost. Now, on to ISO and middle grey. ISO in these cameras in RAW works differently than in video mode. For RAW, all the image data captured by the sensor is preserved. This means no compression. The way ISO works is it changes where middle grey is placed. For ISO 160, let's say out Fuji cameras get 14 stops of dynamic range. It places middle grey close to the 80 IRE point. This means you have about 10-12 stops of area BELOW that, and maybe 2 stops above. That's why you expose for the highlights and lift shadows in post, as long as you don't clip them you can recover them with a slight noise penalty. If you have a shitton of highlights and very bright areas, it is worth going to DR400 and exposing for the highlights there. You will incur a noise penalty in the shadows but that shouldn't matter given bright daylight as you'll wanna preserve more bright information. I've tested this on a monitor with a waveform output, switching between DR100, 200 and 400. DR100 will clip highlights well before the 100 IRE mark as it's running out of "highlight room". To reduce noise in stills, you want to keep a very similar exposure to ISO 160 settings even shooting at 640, you have more highlight headroom so you won't clip as easily. I'd say go 2/3rds of a stop darker just to be safe. Also, Dynamic Range Priority is an even stronger version of DR400, I've found it to be even more low contrast. Now for video, the way H.264/H.265 codecs work is they weight the scene. Luminance is weighted accordingly, so pixels close to 0 IRE are compressed and blobbed together. And they are weighted more the higher they get in IRE, until about 85 IRE. And then 85-100 IRE they are also blobbed together. See where the issue is here with ISO 160? The ISO 160 places SO much information below middle grey that gets compressed to HELL in the codec. And its also scene dependent. If you for example have a night scene, lets say indoors. The best way to get a clean image is to ADD light and keep ISO low, close to 160 if you can. Otherwise, if you have to raise it, go to atleast 2000 on the XT3 (not sure about XT2 and the like). The reason ISO 800 (XT2) or 640 (XT3) is native ISO in F-log and DR400 is that it places middle grey differently, it's placed much lower in the overall gamma curve. SO you have WAY more headroom in highlights and the shadows are flattened. That's why you also overexpose, to fit as much info into the higher areas of log footage where it can hold more. In video, it's hard to "recover" info as they are compressed heavily. For instance, an uncompressed RAW frame from the camera at full res is 58MB. Imagine 58MB for every single frame. That's an insane amount of data. That's why the log curve fits a very flat looking image into the scene and gets a lot of highlight and shadow information, without having to "recover" as it's not feasible with compressed, non-RAW codecs. I've been using DR400 in video as I find that the luminance dynamic range is basically exactly the same in Eterna DR400 compared to F-log, it just uses a Rec709 color space with a higher max luminance value, whereas switching to F-log takes the camera into a Rec2020 color space which is wider but using that with 8 bit will cause banding. FOr me, DR400 is the perfect compromise. On the XT3, HLG is similar, but instead base ISO is 1000. This is even better for places with tons of bright areas as again you have more headroom above middle grey. But you'll again be taking a noise penalty in the black areas. On to dual native ISO, can't comment on the XT2 but the XT30 and 3 (anything with the 26MP sensor) is pretty much dual native ISO. Meaning that the camera switches amplification circuits given certain conditions and ISO. Expose to the right to make good use of the sensors capability to capture a wide DR. Note: Noise reduction in camera I turn to -4, it stops the low light shots from looking like a smeary mess and the noise is pretty organic. which is easy to denoise if needed. I mainly do video so for F-Log, if you're in low light and need more exposure, go to ISO 2000 or higher. The camera supposedly switches to the high gain circuit at 2000 which cleans the image up a bit and looks really good. For stills it's apparently switching at ISO 800 for low light but I cannot confirm that as I don't do enough stills. I've done a few at 6400 and 1/8th of a second f3.5 which were good enough for me I've tested F-Log indoors at f11, 1/48th of a second, ISO 10000 and it was still a really clean image except for the black areas. Shows how much of a help a BSI sensor can be.

[@Dstonephoto]

Very infromative reply. I've been on the fence about these cameras (for video) as a lot of the footage I've seen from them is missing something I can't quite put my finger on. As an aside: how far away are we from being to take an Arduino approach to building our own HDMI capture devices with FPGAs (like the Atomos and BMD units) without having to learn that awful concurrency sh*t?

[@rigeltortoioli4944]

As a non-native english speaker, I have to say: your oratory is great. It's quite clear and easy to understand. I've been learning a lot, thanks for your videos.

[@spikehodge5412]

You have a true gift for explaining complex issues. Something I like about your approach is that you don't dumb-down the complex bits to the point of making them unintelligible. Great job!

[@rocketmanab]

Me, clicking on this video: Probably nothing to see here Me, after watching: My entire life has been a lie

[@jjdr9645]

very true

[@UAEmirates]

I don't think anyone else will explain the HDR on Fujifilm with this deep details, great job.

[@RichAdamsFineArt]

I immediately thought of the uses when shooting in snow. I shoot deer often in a snowy backdrop in the winter and this sounds like a great benefit to keep from blowing out the snow details while still exposing for the deer (which I error towards in my exposures). Thanks for the tip. This was really helpful!

[@mydemon]

at 9:42 I exclaimed out loud "OH MY GOD" at the exact same time as our teacher.. Today I learned something. Thank you for the video!

[@deafno]

This video was the deciding factor to get myself a Fuji camera. Because it shows what excellent technology that the cameras have and how this channel can present these technologies and features the best way possible.

[@robertkamer1820]

How the hell can people dislike this video? So incredibly useful. And I really loved how you physically demonstrated the histogram highs and lows. Laugh out loud funny.

[@tonygarrett7214]

I’m new to Fujifilm after decades of Canon and Nikon use. I think one of the main reasons for the change to Fujifilm was the design of their cameras. I feel like I’m back in the 1970s and 80s now having the use of dials on the top plate like cameras of those decades. The other reason for changing gear is the utterly stunning results from Fuji lenses. Your enthusiasm is infectious and your presentation skills are first class. This video is an excellent example of those attributes. Thank you.

[@benjamindejonge3624]

The most underrated option and very understood, till pall2 tech clears it out for us mortals

[@BalticDroneVideos]

Just wanted to say thank you for your videos. I bought X-T3 camera without knowing anything about FUJIFILM cameras. Now I have a pretty decent understanding of how to deal with it. All thanks to you.

[@vladimirkraus1438]

This is the best explanation of this feature I found anywhere on the internet! Thank you!

[@davidscottblacksmith]

I love the effort you put into your videos. Much appreciated. Thank you.

[@peterscott-jones9998]

Here I am back again watching this video through. I then put my XT-3 onto DR 400% and went out into my garden and got amazing results. It was a very bright sunny day and the flowers look SO beautiful. BTW I just LOVE the Intro for this video. I told my friends all about DR 400% and used your biscuit analogy and, for once, they didn't all fall asleep half way through me banging on about photography, again. Everybody roared with laughter. It's the way I tell'em!!! Take care and stay safe...it's a crazy world out there just now.

[@habanosrus]

Your videos just keep getting better and better. Always so informative and presented in an easy and professional manner.

[@hand-heldblender8107]

Wow. That was a very important video for me. Switzerland is a “winter” country. Winter = snow = need of highlight protection to see the structure of the snow in landscape photos. That cases problem. I hope so that DR 400% at ISO 640 will help me a lot. I gonna try it during the weekend. :)

[@WOLFTICKVIDEOS]

Will you please comeback and give us your experiences? I'm very curious how this will perform in shots with something like snow which will be in the majority of the frame. Thanks in advance - John

[@hassannassif9464]

I have the same problem as I live in Canada.

[@Theo5555]

Simply lower the highlights in your menu 1-2 points. This gives you better results than via DR 200 and certainly DR 400, because you can keep your ISO setting at the lowest setting. highlights cannot recover once they are burned out. Shadows can be brought back reasonably well if your ISO remains low, or your shadows would be so black that there is no more information in it.

[@pixelgenau2982]

I‘d rather stay at the lowest ISO (100 % DR) and shoot with exposure bracketing. Merge the images in Photoshop and you get a very wide dynamic range. I try to avoid noise as possible. Higher ISO means more noise. Btw, I live in Switzerland too and shot several winter landscape images recently as well 😉

[@hand-heldblender8107]

@@WOLFTICKVIDEOS currently, I am in the field with the gears. I will come back with my experience and I will share it.

[@atephoto]

Every shot is really at ISO 160, but when setting ISO 640 and DR 400%, you only change the indicated ISO in the raw metadata to 640. This means the shot is underexposed 2 EV to keep the highlights, the black and shadows get pushed up 2 EV in the cameras raw converter because of the DR400. This is actually done post exposure. ISO exposure in camera (developer push/pull or ISO) is better known as brightness, and is literally no different than changing exposure slider in LR after the fact. Reason why you see this difference in LR in your example and think it is baked in to RAW is because of the raw metadata. If you compare the RAW files in application such as RAW digger, you will find that the RAW data (real exposure) is the same, except for RAW metadata. Capture One disregard DR and will show a DR400 file as underexposed as it really happens in camera.

[@phlo314]

Exactly! This was my conclusion as well! The video is wrong when it claims that any kind of separate processing of highlights and shadows happens before analog to digital conversion. While doing things that way might be theoretically possible, in practice it would require DR processing to be integrated into the sensor. The reason that the camera insists in you setting a higher ISO to enable DR is simply that underexposing and then digitally recovering the shows increases noise levels in the darker part of the image. The increase in noise (approximately) matches the increased noise that the higher ISO would show if the camera actually set the sensor to the selected ISO level instead of two stops below that. So by forcing you to select a higher ISO, the camera simply informs you about the increased noise.

[@jesselam5867]

​@@phlo314 I had similar thoughts, having different iso levels on a pixel level doesn’t sound right. As far as i’m aware increasing iso just increases the voltage supplied to the entire sensor hence increasing the sensitivity/iso, not on a pixel level. If this was the case it is a BIG deal and we should always turn it on because it means we can have optimal iso value across the entire image, increasing dynamic range and lowering noise. Fujifilm would have marketed this feature more, not keep it as a hidden setting.

[@StepanVoronkov]

Exactly, 6:17 is a wrong statement.

[@1825OREO]

What would the best iOS to shoot?

[@phlo314]

@@1825OREO There no "universally" best ISO, it's always a compromise between noise (lower at low ISO) and motion blur (higher at low ISO because shutter speeds are slower)

[@TheRileyShot]

Amazing mate, honestly I struggle so bad with this and have read , watched so much over the years and finally, finally you explain it bang on in 4 mins 😄. Top work , keep it up

[@LaurentFabry]

Fuji is amazing for that ! yesterday, i shot an entire wedding at 800 ISO (Fuji X-H1), because i left the DR at 400% by mistake, and the result is mind blowing : bride and groom session in worst arsh sun, not a single photo of the white dress cannot be recovered from what i've seen so far, this is really impressive, and since there was lots of light, noise is negligible !! And many many thanks for your invaluable channel about Fujifilm cameras !!

[@brianw6645]

As always, fantastic and very informative. Thanks.

[@pal2tech]

Thanks Brian!!!!

[@cokeandtwirl]

This is the real deal no question. I’m glad I bought a Fuji camera so I can watch these videos! Mind blown and off I go to practice.

[@andywhitehouse1425]

WOW. I now understand a lot more clearly how Dynamic range can improve my images. Thank You.

[@johnaquina]

This is possibly the most important piece of information I've seen so far about Fuji settings. Thank you so much!! 🙌🙌🙌

[@pal2tech]

Thanks John!!! 🙏

[@troyc3]

Best explanation Ive heard yet, for those that dont know what the ADC is just think of it as the "Digitizer" The device that takes and analog voltage and converts it into a digital value

[@albertphillips447]

Chris, I have found that coming back to your videos and rewatching them a I get more comfortable with the menu choices on my camera has been a great way to complete my setting options. I first watched this while setting up my X-T3 last year. It was a a bit over my head at the time. Now, as I am getting deeper into setting up my X-T5, I am almost ready to give the Q menu a go, I am taking another look at ISO and Dynamic Range. Now this video is really helpful. Thanks, Al

[@thuraoo2295]

As a Fujifilm user, I really love your videos. From your lens reviews to camera tech talks, your videos are very knowledgeable and helpful to me. Many thanks.

[@mikefoster6018]

Superb. Living proof that being expressive really boosts teaching.

[@barrymayes6712]

Awesome review. All these years I’ve been using DR settings and D range tools and cursing Fuji for not giving me good range in the Raw files not realising I had to move the sliders in LR. I usually just use the excellent JPEG’s from Fuji (They are amazing!) But for weddings I edit from Raw files to ensure details from the wedding dress. Now I know I need to use the LR sliders! Thanks for explaining noise in the shadows when using DR; I was getting annoyed with weird quality of shadows. But now I understand this quirks I can edit in a whole new under. Thank you!

[@mikefoster6018]

Great video. Dynamic Range is a strange beast. If the Fuji is truly ISO invariant (as we're told it is) then you can replicate DR400 in bright scenes by simply shooting with a quarter normal exposure and then boosting the non-highlight areas by up to four times back on your home computer. Not that you'd want to, as it's an editing hassle. If you take your Fuji and increase DR from 100 to 400 when you'd normally shoot at ISO125, it will indeed protect the highlights but also add a tiny bit of (ISO500 minimum) fuzz into the picture. The DR 400 will literally have reduced the light on your sensor down to a quarter, which is quite spooky when you think about it. (For example, a 500th/second F2.0 ISO125 shot at DR 100 becomes a 125th/second F2.0 ISO500 shot at DR 400). But, as long as you don't mind that tiny ISO500 fuzz, you've saved your highlights. If you take your Fuji and increase DR from 100 to 400 in a gloomy scene where you'd be at ISO500+ anyway, your DR100 and DR400 shots will be the same. It's an artistic etc decision whether you actually like blown-out areas in a photo and whether you care about accessing the best light quality (and least ISO fuzz) possible. For me, although I hate giving up on finest ISO125 picture quality, I'm happy to pay the tax always of being at ISO500+ for the comfort of knowing two stops worth of highlights are protected. So I'm on DR400 for my street snapping and anywhere that risks blown-out highlights. And knowing that, in gloomier light (where I'd be at ISO500+ anyway), I've lost nothing anyway compared to DR100. The above is based on my tests and research, but this is a slippery topic and I might find reasons to change. (As an aside, DR400 can be impossible with mechanical shutter on bright says as it'll be too bright to run ISO500 on normal shutter speeds).

[@Monobod-AVs]

I now understand the meaning of 200% etc. Not really doubling the dynamic but protecting the highlights by one stop. Thanks, excellent channel.

[@AndrewMckay]

I got this whole channel wrong. At first i didn't enjoy the style but i was basing it on the intros I now realize how wrong I was, This is a superb channel and this video is brilliant . Many thanks Chris ,

[@karolkowalski8319]

My goodness, thank you! I had no idea why my files act so weird in the editor. Such an informative video. And delivered in a digestible manner as well. Once again, thank you!

[@henkhenk4357]

Finally I understand this feature. Good to know it works on raw files as well!

[@blutac318]

Oh, Chris, you always manage to find something new to teach me about the fujifilm system! I never understood the DR options. Thank you for this fantastically informative video!

[@sweet4nice2003]

Thank you our Fuji King 🤩 always learning something new love it!

[@ivanpatriciovillanueva4500]

I recently got an X-T5, couldn’t be more happy with it but there’s so many features and tools that I’m just not familiar with. I’ve been coming back to your channel cause honestly you are the best at explaining and sharing your knowledge with other Fuji enthusiasts. Thank you so much!

[@mjiddaro9229]

Just found your channel and I just switched with Fujifilm Camera. And your contents are helping me 🙏🏻

[@stuartcreighton3410]

Chris, You have energy passion & intellect. I never even thought to test this before as I thought irrelevant for RAW.

[@pal2tech]

Thanks Stuart!!!! 👍

[@colin-4794]

This should be required viewing for every Fuji X shooter. Very well explained, many thank's.

[@mytravellinfo]

No wonder why all my highlights are blown away even with the RAW - now I know !!! Thank you Thank you Thank you so so so much.

[@sashagirl357]

This is so helpful to understand and you do it so clearly in your videos! Really appreciate all the time you put into helping us understand various features and concepts with the Fuji system! Thank you!

[@backwoodstrails]

Great explanation and exactly what I was trying to find out. The higher ISO does not drop the exposure entirely, it drops the exposure only in the highlight areas. These cameras are simply amazing!

[@timothylinn]

This is a great video, Chris. Maybe your best ever. If I'm understanding you, the processor is tone mapping the data before it hits the amplifier to prevent any clipping (to use audio terminology), even in RAW files. Brilliant. It almost seems like this feature would better be called "headroom". So what are the ramifications? You didn't really go into this. It seems like the first thing to understand is that you don't really get any more dynamic range than shooting at ISO160. Going to ISO640 and choosing DR400 is like buying insurance/headroom and paying for it with shadow noise. Assuming ISO160 gives you exposure settings that work for your situation, you're better off shooting at ISO160, making sure you're not blowing out the highlights, and raising the shadows in post as needed. With Fuji's ISOless sensor, there is no penalty for doing so and you are in control of the shadow boost/noise tradeoff. But if you are shooting at ISO320 or ISO640, is there a downside to using DR200 or DR400? I can't think of one. If you are already shooting at ISO640, isn't shadow noise going to be the same, regardless of your DR setting?

[@mnorena]

I hope you are making a ton of money with these videos, they are great! You make them informational and entertaining.

[@cristivasile2076]

Because of you i boot a fuji xt4 my first camera .Thank you for your videos.

[@frankmenkel8329]

I finally understand Dynamic Range. Thanks to your video. Well done. Hope the Marshmallows tasted good.

[@Dontpickatthat]

Finally I get it! I read the manual and saw other KZbin explanations, some I sure did a decent job, but you turned the lights on. I will send good thought your way now that I understand what has been preventing me from accessing this function. As an old film shooter, the lower the ASA (ISO) the better. Shooting high key product shots for online auctions always resulted in tattle tale gray highlight (or fried) if my blacks were good, or great highlights and a bucket of mud in the shadows. My histograms looked good & I tried to compensate by exposing for the highlights or alternately shadows but high key still needed a lot of patching up in post & of course there was no real fix information I don’t have. Anyway, I’ll give this a shot and see if Dynamic range tools can improve my results. Thanks

[@scottsouter2622]

You are a superior teacher and producer. Your presentation style is very enjoyable

[@pal2tech]

Thank you so much Scott!!!

[@user-wc3pc5kq8l]

Thanks. The key message is explained in 6:20 that helped.

[@vedarius]

Hi Chris! Was this video helpful? Definitely it was! It was especially helpful for understanding the process of camera creating the RAW file containing metadata that refer to the DR tool, something that one can't find in user manual! That is what I LOVE your videos for! You go beyond mere overviews or "filming a user guide", so to say. Do all photographers take interest in tech points?- not, of course, as modern cameras provide good shots in vast majority of shooting conditions automatically. But there always a room for improvements. And the better we know our tools, the better results we can achieve. You help it a lot by doing your videos and sharing your profound knowledge of tech aspects of photo gear with us! Many thanks, really!!

[@IanHelmcke]

this video made my jaw drop! Thank you for finally helping explain this. Love your channel so much.

[@pal2tech]

Thank you so much Ian!! 🙏🙏

[@Galacticat_]

I've been so confused trying to figure this out but you explained it so well. Thanks!

[@carlosc.639]

AMAZING explanation Chris! I always use 200% like a sweet middle spot

[@paulofernandocosta2075]

congratulations for so much knowhow. you are one of the best teacher that I have watched. thanks

[@mianshams]

Most important channel for Fuji guys like me

[@ev6377]

This is the best youtube channel for photography!

[@ibarrabenjamin1]

Great video. Finally! Someone who breaks that myth that DR didn’t affect the raw files. Thank you!

[@dr4sail852]

Thank you for such a clear presentation. The more I listen to you the more I learn and appreciate going out and photographing

[@Mowikan]

What a complicated way of having some marshmallow chocolate and cookies! Thx again!

[@Adelaiiide]

Just discovered this option on my camera! thanks for explaining what it does, can't wait to try it!

[@svaphrodite]

You just helped me solve my problems with daytime landscapes and bright clouds!

[@znuznuvideo]

another eye-opener from pal2tech. Thanks for providing sound knowledge in an entertaining yet straightforward way.

[@jimmycaldwell2012]

Very emotional and comprehensive explanation. Thank you!

[@TedNemeth]

Yes!! Please do a video dynamic range demo. This lesson was very helpful. Thank you! Love the channel.

[@5ivestring]

So far you're an absolute wealth of information. Yes, subscribed but also saved a video to my watch later list. Why? Because then I can click on it and a whole bunch of your vides come up or from one I can click on your channel. Searching my scribed list is a pain. As for this video, I always ignored Dynamic range before, but now I'm going to start using it, Because I understand it better.

[@sethie_shots]

I love the excitement! It’s contagious 🤘🏻

[@hermessonofzeus4462]

Thank you so much for taking the time to put this together, clearly and we'll explained.

[@pal2tech]

You bet!

[@tomronollo9411]

best explanation/examples for dr -ever

[@neglectedloves]

Wow! Thanks for this video! I wish you were my teacher when I was in school, I would have learned so much more! It's a great joy to listen to your explanations. You just make sense to most complicated things... Thanks :-)

[@pal2tech]

Wow, thank you!

[@DDVlogAR]

Wow! never cared about the DR setting since I always shoot in RAW... This was an eye opener, you are great! Thanks!!!

[@Hugmir]

Your production finesse is commendable. Educative and fun to watch.

[@grzegorzporowinski]

The best video which explain DR properly! There is so much trash informations about this on the web and youtube :/

[@cankoklu]

Thanks!

[@pal2tech]

Thank you so much Can!!! 🙏

[@glenwernecke7273]

Finally I understood what this setting means. After literary reading in three different manuals / books about it, it still wasn't clear to me. Thanks a lot!

[@danginn6118]

One of the best intros i've seen.

[@findus605]

Hi Chris, i have never used the DR feature on my XT3 but now you have peaked my curiosity to see if it helps during my image making. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@gamaltaha870]

I love your detailed and simplified technical explanation. No other video have been so explicit and easy to understand like your videos. Thank you very much for making it look so easy.

[@zacharyf.9936]

Thank you so much- you do all the hard work for us and then disseminate it in the easiest, and with the smores, the most tasty ways possible.

[@polmestra]

This is an amazing feature. Thank you for the explanation!

[@o.c8951]

wow your explanation is so much better than all other i saw bravo 👏

[@Dickeywood43081]

One of your best videos on the fuji cameras. It fully explains this confusing setting for me. I have been shooting fuji since the E-X1 and now own a X-T3 and a GFX100 and will use it in my work Thanks a TON! I shared the link to this video to my camera club in that I think it's so important. All my best.

[@pal2tech]

Thanks so much Dick!!! 👍