full d16 transmission rebuild

This is a full rebuild of an 88-2000 honda d16 manual transmission. it came out of a stock 93 civic ex. This transmission was going back into a car that was worth less than the bearings i was putting into it cost, so i was a little less than careful when reinstalling everything and would be a little more cautious when doing yours. If you have any questions or want to see something else being rebuilt please let me know.

[@tarakozik2532]

Followed step by step. No problems and shifts perfect. No noise no grinding.

[@robertgorny3935]

I made an youtube account just to thank you for this video, awesome thank you. H+

[@Cervan]

Very glad that it is helping people rebuild there transmissions. These are simple transmission to build but they can be even easier if you know the tricks to them.

[@javiermontes3777]

@@Cervan Jewel don't have any videos for a 2005 Toyota matrix manual transmission

[@javiermontes3777]

@@Cervan I got a gear noises in my transmission in every gear

[@declanosbourne62]

@@Cervan .is this video works for a 2002 civic ex manual transmission..? I have a bad input shaft bearing that annoying the heck out of me..what parts I need to change along with the input shaft bearing.? And what is the honda website from where u buy parts from?

[@declanosbourne62]

@@Cervan I'm thinking of doing it myself because the labor cost to have that bearing charge is the price for $2000 car n I cant afford that.

[@v36vhr]

Great video... now I'm building confidence to rebuild my transmission!

[@isrv]

Did you do it??

[@IzzySk10]

@@isrvidk about him but I just got my case bolted back together seems to shift properly. Done a bunch of bearings and seals/synchros

[@isrv]

@@IzzySk10 bro gave up,but insane that you did im on hood terms with my transmission but I wanna learn more since transmissions catch all my attention

[@diohangcha]

Awesome job! Thanks for taking the time to share and do this video! One thing that I want to add, just in case someone ask, is that on the B18C1 and B18C5 engine the 3rd/4th hub of the mainshaft is install the opposite to the D16 engine with the "U"-shape-teeth upside down.

[@drunkandcory3028]

Now I understand what happened to my transmission you were a great teacher💪👌 thank you.

[@antonskuzenko1444]

Duuude, that concrete trick for output shaft disassembly is a life saver! So simple it's almost genius. Thanks a lot bud!

[@ayeallie]

Thank you for this! Rebuilding my 93 and having something to follow along with is awesome.

[@adrianrodriguez540]

best video on how to rebuild the dseries transmission thanks for the upload

[@seekerofthetruths]

1996-2000 tranny is basically the same, except there are 3 little spring loaded detent balls on the shift fork rails. Didn't know they were there till I took my 97 apart. The retaining bolts are accesible from the outside. Shift forks looked a tad different but function the same way. Thanks for the informative video! I thought I had similar problems to the one in the video since I was getting pretty severe gear whine in the lower gears and a noticeable growl at higher speeds. Turns out the counter shaft bearing was walking out of the housing like you described. Tapped it back in and punched the housing like shown. Fortunately all the bearings are still flawless. I'm assuming the bearing walking out was causing the lash in the gear sets to be taken up and causing the whine. The growl I'm assuming was from the counter shaft riding closer to the ring gear and removing the lash there.

[@Doomzdayxx]

Thankyou so much for making this video for everybody. i recently had an issue with my 1996 civic. I heard a horrible grinding coming from the transmission area. It just started doing this out of the blue one morning. My first thought was that it's an alternator/AC/idler pulley. Then I noticed that while shifting, the clutch would engage when my foot had only lifted up a half inch or less from the floor. The grinding sound was present whether I was pressing on the clutch pedal or not...it was just always grinding. By the time I left work that day, there was no pedal resistance and I was unable to shift in to gears while the car was running. Although the pedal did return back if I took my foot off it. I had to get towed. Anyway, I decided that maybe it's the clutch and that I would replace the clutch, and throwout bearing and that should solve the issues. But now, after having the tranny off, I noticed that the input shaft seems to "click" when I turn it back and forth by hand. i cannot tell if this is because loose ball bearing rolling around from a broken bearing or something else. I was going to take it apart. The car has 205k miles on it. Any advice? Apologies for the long winded post and thankyou.

[@SI0AX]

Sounds like a bad bearing. Buy the transmission rebuild kit through eBay, and just change all bearings and seals. Also check for damaged teeth. If you see damaged teeth on the shift colors or syncros, get the Syncrotech brand shift collars and sychros. They sell a kit with Syncros and metal springs. The shift collars may have to be purchased seperate. None of my syncros had ground down teeth but they slipped on the gear so I had to change some. I also had to change 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th selector colors because the teeth were ground down. My syncro rings were also damaged.

[@Doomzdayxx]

@@SI0AX I appreciate the reply. I ended up taking everything apart and there was no internal damage, it looked great. It appears as though the problem was with the hydraulic system. I replaced the master and slave and the clutch because why not. I do still have a problem in that no matter how much I bleed the slave, the pedal seems to be very spongy

[@SI0AX]

@@Doomzdayxx That can be caused by 3 things: 1. The Brake Master Cylinder(check for leaks but otherwise just change the part). 2. The brake lines(check for worn out, cracked brake lines, also check for leaks at the brake line thread locations). 3. Leaking caliper(check if the bleeder valve is leaking). I recommend you upgrade to stainless steal brake lines like I did. I also had to replace some of my calipers as they had developed a leak at the bleeder valve location that couldn't be solved by replacing the bleeder valve. I bought a pressure brake bleed kit but I had bled the brakes the traditional way and read that it's what caused by brake master cylinder to fail because bottoming out the brake pedal causes the seal to get damaged as is not a recommended way to bleed brakes, thus the pump bleed kit I bought.

[@deegwar]

Awesome video, helped me recon my S40 with a kit from Ebay. There is advice in here I couldn't find in the manual, and the pics helped me get all the parts in the correct orientation, and position. Thank you very much Cervan!

[@Cervan]

Anytime! im glad that it helped you out.

[@preludepatrick]

Paterico (preludepatrick) from DSO. Your snap ring technique helped me separate my transmission case tonight. Thanks!

[@Cervan]

late reply but glad to see i helped another dso fan, long live the D!

[@94crx31]

you're a legend dude, I'm about to rebuild mine and i was pretty scared to do it 😅

[@insurubagtr]

Dude thank you for the video. First time rebuilding a trans myself wanted to learn and this helped a lot!!

[@carsandhealthtoddrosenzwei2661]

Gary---- first, I must say THANK YOU for taking the time to explain this rebuild in such detail for us to use. I am quite experience and handy with cars, etc... but have never rebuilt a transmission. You made it easy... EXCEPT! :( I have no 4th gear now and was wondering if you could help. I replaced the following parts: all bearings, seals, synchro springs and synchros, slider sleeves, a used replacement set of shift forks, and fluid. Now, after the rebuild, 4th gear pops out and will only engage IF I force the shifter back with hard force but it wants to keep popping back into neutral. When I reassembled it as per you video, I did notice that when I installed the interlock guide bolt in the bell housing, that the shifting became tough when I bench-tested it by hand (shifting). I will admit, that when I first installed the interlock bolt, it went it with ALOT of resistance... Now, after reinstalling it and making sure there's clearance, it threads in smoothly, but still have the 4th gear issue. (pops out aggressively). Any tips, or help is GREATLY APPRECIATED.... Thank you again for the video! You're a great mechanic and TEACHER.

[@Cervan]

Sorry for the late reply but if you put the interlock guide bolt back in and it bent the slotted assembly, you will have to tear the trans back apart to replace it

[@toolman550]

Great video, thank so much for making and posting it. I am working on a 1998 civic ex 5 speed box. There is one thing you may want to mention! There are 3 detente screws that must be remove before you split the case. Otherwise three steel balls will come shooting out of the case. Also I would advise you to use a brass hammer when beating on the gears.

[@Cervan]

tool man yeah I didn’t point out the detents because the transmission I was doing didn’t have them. I also would use a brass hammer or a piece of pipe to tap the gears on the shaft. Glad to hear that this video helping people out.

[@bigsparky8888]

GREAT JOB YOUNG MAN!!! SAW YOUR FRIEND SQUANKING...LOL...I HAVE USED GASKACINCH ON ALL FLAT MSTING SURFACES...NEVER LEAKED...EVER...ALL BIKES...CARS...VW BUG CASES...Just saying way cheaper than RTV...NO SMOOSHING EITHER...

[@backslash3253]

the sacred video. extremely helpful with my build

[@jimjonrs3932]

Rebuilding a transaxle on a table with a bench grinder on it. You can hear the grit every time you set the parts down on it.

[@truthseeking3818]

Yeah that is pretty horrendous. I understand the video is just to show us really i guess, he seems to not give an F about the car according to the description.

[@shionnsr8684]

Can you do a full Itr/gsr rebuild please im trying to save myself a 500 labour fee :(

[@Bigjamez2011]

Alrighty well I have a new issue , I replaced the mainshaft bearing the small one and the large one . I put case back on and was real hard to get on and now it's binding and I cannot rotate the mainshaft by hand . The large bearing on the top of the mainshaft is new and super tight going into the case also the bearings on the diff we're tight too . It's being a bitch to do . Also not sure my lock ring snapped in but I think it did . Also had a little issue with the hex bolt in bell housing that locks the part in place . Gonna take case back off and redo it all. I did not take apart the main or counter shafts at all just the two bearings replaced .

[@jimwinchester339]

19:00 You should have gotten out a needle file and softened up those splines a bit, instead of hammering the snot out of it. Espeically since we all know those thing just fell out when you impaled the assembly onto the concrete floor.

[@davidrios8055]

Where can I buy the friction dampeners for a 91 transmission or are all them the same

[@Bigjamez2011]

I messed up a little with the guide hex bolt that goes in the bell housing , I put it in was a little tight took back out and it left a small dimple of the right guide I got it in there how it should be but a little harder to turn gear selector left and right now

[@numberpirate]

Concave washer is called "belleville washer".

[@Cervan]

I knew the meaning but i thought it would be easier for people to comprehend which way faced up/down if i said concave/convex.

[@dreamer2355]

Great video. Very impressed

[@deegwar]

Legendary. Great first video. Many thanks.

[@beshjs408]

Hey mate just to let you know if you use a screwdriver in the pry point and then shove your bar in between the halves, where the silicon is then you can get much more levering and its much easier to control splitting the 2 parts.

[@DanielTurnbow]

i need my 00 civic ISB DONE, WISH U LIVED IN OREGON

[@Bigjamez2011]

Can you help me my 97 manual trans I can't get the main and counter shafts out I removed that bolt but they won't come out

[@Bigjamez2011]

The shift forks won't let go of the rod part

[@Cervan]

sometimes the countershaft bearing is really tight in the case and you have to slowly work it out with two screwdrivers to get it to release from the shaft.

[@Cervan]

Oh you mean the selector? hmm it should just pull right out, might be a little tight if the selector is very tight on the shaft.

[@Bigjamez2011]

@@Cervan thanks for your reply I forgot to remove the hex bolt in bell housing after that they came out but I posted another issue in the comments if you can help out .

[@AlexG-vp9bu]

Awesome video Where can I buy the parts to rebuild?

[@lagg-alot8308]

Awesome video taught me alot

[@fluffykidgamer4538]

Is this channel still active? I certainly hope so. There's probably so much I could ask you about.

[@robertoruiz7069]

I was really interested in the disassembly but questioned why he didn't clean any grit off the parts ,then when he pulled the ball peen hammer to HELP assemble the gears i lost it.he definitely has done a lot of those tranneys ,but really don't ever use a hammer to reassemble,that means there's a bur or grit in the splines.Mr Honda is rolling in his grave,and cursing the American mechanic.haha

[@fredericverpaelst4080]

What transmission oil do you use?

[@crimsonfker5525]

10w30 or 5w30(in cold climates), ive also used penzoil synchromesh to great effect. Anything but gear oil.

[@Dasnowmanturneddirtm]

I dont know why but I broke two of the bearings with clip retainer on them. 😞 Maybe the retaining clip is damaged or bent

[@danielnino3861]

Can you please do one for a 2000 Honda accord transmission

[@Energy4Sale]

Great info thanks for the help

[@arlenmontgomery-o7n]

So I just rebuilt my trans on my 89 crx si. It’s a cable trans and everything looks good I’m able to bench shift it but then when I put it in the car it’s like it’s stuck in gear. In neutral it will start to pull off when I release the clutch. And it’s very hard to get it into in gear position. Any help would be great. I didn’t lose any shims and from why I tmemeber mine doesn’t have any detent balls that would’ve shot out anywhere. It’s a 89 si cable trans on a d16a6

[@Joemama69420.]

You are a legend

[@sacus209]

My second gear pop no grinding I check the gear snd syncros seem to be good what can also cause that issue

[@138sh]

Informative yet horrifying at the same time.

[@garymartin8185]

BEST👍👍🤣 assemble n dismantle like tonka toys. True Genuine Real deal..great video👍😃

[@nonoydukes4429]

Thank you must detailed video hope you make more videos like this 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@joseperez-zo6fr]

Now what if my transmission is grinding on 3rd (just started) and 5 (already been). I get occasional grinding. Should I rebuild or replace it?

[@A1rsoftKid]

My input bearing has words stamped on the opposite side. My plastic bearing holder base is on the side with no words. I assume I ignore the words bit and install it with the bearing holder facing upwards.

[@MrBigBoy4Life]

At 56:14 of the video, was that guy hittin' a bong?

[@txman951]

Cervan where is your shop?

[@themechanic764]

I’m working on a P20-A000 transmission S20

[@DavidAdam037]

I can’t turn the input shaft after tightening transmission housing bolts. Snap ring engaged, it’s fine. But when I tighten the bolts it won’t budge. Please help!!!

[@Tribax88]

Same issue on my side, it can't turn by hand by it turns with a wrench en tips. Have you fixed the issue ? Many thanks

[@redr2]

Need some help PLEASE! About to toss this one accross the garage and buy a new one on-line. I just put all new seals and bearings from Honda in my transmission cases....did not touch the gear assemblies at all, just put them aside and dropped them back in. Now it won't go in reverse and 5th is tough too. From what I can tell is that the 5 gear selector ring appears stuck and is very stiff??...I cannot slide it back and forth by hand (need a screw driver). I bought this thing used and never ran but the guy insists it worked well....syncros look nearly prefect. I am really stuck on what is going on. here is a video of what appears to be hung up....not sure why its affecting reverese and 5 but it is. When its back together I shift with hand and it slides over okay, maybe a little stiffer on the Reverse and 5th side of the assembly but they just dont't shift in to gear....5th will go but very hard to put in by hand. Reverese would need to t be hammered in and I dont't wanna do that!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/iWilnqZ9edutftk

[@Cervan]

Looks like the sleeve is stuck on the 5th gear snap ring retainer (the little ring that goes around the synchro). If you remove the snap ring, does the sleeve move freely? Also the snap ring should be shiny and smooth, not beat up, that can also cause this problem. Also try different orientations of the selector sleeve on the hub, as sometimes they are tighter if you line them up wrong. Also make sure the side with the chamfer goes down towards the synchro or else it will beat up the synchro snap ring. 5th and reverse are controlled by the same shift fork/shaft, so if you have an issue with either one it causes issues for both. More than likely you dont have any problems with reverse and its all related to 5th.

[@BLOODYMADOG88]

Your a life saver!! Thank you!

[@galindoparedes748]

Cervan can you please do a video on the automatic transmission for a 1993 Honda Civic ex coupe. I want to know how to rebuild it myself. Thanks.

[@A1rsoftKid]

Additionally. I don’t see why the guide bolt is last. Why can’t it be done right before the housing is put on? This way you can tell if it’s aligned properly. Why not?

[@Cervan]

You sure can put it back in before you put the cover back on, it's not really important when you install it, more it's just the last thing I install because that way I remember to install it because it's the first and last bolt I touch.

[@A1rsoftKid]

Gotcha. Some people use rtv sealer on the threads. Wouldn’t thread sealer be more appropriate? Or just nothing? I don’t even see that part submerged in oil.

[@purpstheillest]

thanks a lot dude, great video man!!

[@Lasershamm]

Thanks for the great video man

[@jeffreylaitila4784]

When you put the counter shaft back together you said make make sure the tangs are lined up before you pound the gears the rest of the way on and there should be no up or down play. When I put mine back together I did it exactly as you said but for some reason there is a little up and down movement no matter how hard I pounded it on. Do the splines have any specific spot they go together?

[@lostkauz83]

Guess I better watch this a few 100 times , I got an odd sound coming from passenger front it not an axle pop , it's not a bearing roar . It's like an odd intermittent roar that's worse with a load in or out of the throttle around 40 mph kinda like a warped rotor sound but braking makes no change . It's nearly Un noticeable in right hand curves , semi noticeable going straight . At first I thought maybe an axle but im leaning towards the bearings closest to the axle in the trans . 🤔 . Any one experienced this ?

[@A1rsoftKid]

If step#1 fails due to a stuck guide bolt is that a show stopper? I don’t see that it is. Is it mandatory?

[@danielcesar25]

Hello there. Good video. i have a 2004 Civic coup and 2nd gear grinds everytime i put it in 2nd. is probably the syncro that is worn right? thanks !

[@Cervan]

Daniel the synchronizers are usually the last parts that go bad. I've replaced very few over the years, and most of those needed replaced not because they were bad, but because the dog teeth were damaged because of grinding. usually grinding is caused by bent or broken shift forks and bad motor mounts.

[@unclequack5445]

All you did was take the main shaft apart and put it back you didn't use any new parts but input bearing? These Front wheel drive trans look similar to motorcycle gears the cluster comes out with the input, If Its my car and I I'm into it this far I'm throwing a full kit at it, I did see you say the car was junk so I know where your coming from Brother.

[@yakoobkoobie6217]

Hey good work.. I wanted to ask, I have SLW transmission out of a 2004 civic d series 150i.. There's a rumble in 1st and 2nd gear.. What are possible causes?

[@Cervan]

More than likely the input shaft bearing is going bad, could be motor mounts but if it’s a high pitched whirring noise then that’s the most likely culprit

[@ianhellsing3327]

u are awesome for this video man thanks alot

[@GalacticTechTrails]

thank you very good.

[@jamzempire]

Very cool video, thanks

[@moebandy8443]

Cant get the halves together. About a 1/2 to 1 inch away from counter shaft bearing. What could be the problem

[@Cervan]

Not sure if you figured this out yet, but there usually is either a shaft or bearing that isnt aligned causing the issue, or possibly a gear stack issue.

[@moebandy8443]

It will go on without the bearing on top of the mainshaft. It seems like that bearing is keeping it from going together. I tried putting bearing in case first now it is stuck and cannot get it out. Tried heating it up atill will not come out.

[@leofandersoniii]

do you have a source for parts? honda has discontinued most parts and they are on constant backorder with rockauto. i need synchros

[@Cervan]

Leo Anderson unfortunately I don't have any good sources for original new parts, most of what I use now is used parts that are still within spec. Synchro and bearings I get from third parties now such as bearing supply houses and ebay

[@Dolla-Bill]

Where do you gets parts?

[@ianskiee]

Great video, by the way may I ask for an advice. i have a honda civic with a stock B16a transmission (manual) when Im in low gear (1st to 3rd gear) I hear a humming sound.. but when I go to 4th and 5th everything is smooth (no sound) by the way shifting to any gears are smooth. It could be the input shaft bearing? Thanks

[@Donnythelatemodeltech]

Great information.👍

[@jacksongrindle969]

YOU ARE MY FUCKING HERO

[@Cervan]

lol glad it helped you

[@Twoflowersx]

Hello may I ask what kind of 10w30 brand do you prefer to put in ? :) and do you put more or less doe to viscosity or you do the right amount 1.7litres ? :) thank you

[@Twoflowersx]

@Cervan also should it be fullsyntetic or nonsyntetic ? ? long life / no longlife ? :)

[@Cervan]

For normal street driving any 10w30 is acceptable, i would change conventional 10w30 a little sooner than synthetic but both work well. For track use only i would consider using MT50 or straight 50 weight manual transmission oil depending on the temperature that the transmission is exposed to after laps (temp gun checking the transmission housing after laps) and what temperature it is outside. (Is it winter? is it summer?) In the winter 10w30 is what i would use or maybe 10w40 depending on how hard your pushing the car. MT50 should only be used during hot track use and the transmission should be warmed up prior to any hard driving. In extreme cases i have seen people use synthetic 80-90w gear oil on extremely hot (think 110* outside temps) and extremely aggressive circle track cars that will see sustained high temperatures. Nothing driven on the street should use anything other than 10w30 for maximum longevity of the transmission bearings.

[@hectormlugo9631]

Hey I had 3 little balls come flying out when I took out my case apart and I can’t figure out where they came from any ideas 💡

[@Cervan]

They go with springs under the three 14mm caps on the sides of the case

[@hectormlugo9631]

Cervan in the center of the springs or behind the springs

[@Cervan]

@@hectormlugo9631 they go into each hole ball bearings first, then spring and then the cap goes on. They are the shift fork detents. So the bearings should ride on the shift forks directly with spring pressure behind them.

[@Tribax88]

Is it normal that my gearbox input shaft is such hard that i can't turn it by hand ? It turns only with a wrench on tips. Could you give me your feedback ?

[@Cervan]

Unless you are in gear, it should be fairly easy to turn by hand unless the countershaft bearing is not seated properly

[@Tribax88]

@@Cervan thanks for your prompt reply. In IPC, the sketch show that there is 2 shims going betwen the input shaft and the input shaft bearing. One is a flat shim and the other is a spring shim. I saw that you had only one shim in the video. shoud i remove one shim in your opinion ?

[@stevetaeza4158]

Thanks for the video. Would you happen to have a 1/2 shift fork for a P20-B000?

[@aliciawillis6829]

Part # for 1-2 shift fork ? I thought it was my sink rows until I watched your video. 2nd gear is half out. I can still use it but I have the apply pressure and hold it in gear or it pops out

[@Cervan]

Popping out of gear could be a couple of things, a broken shift fork is very possible as it causes not only grinding, but the selector ring to not engage fully on to the teeth of the gear. Worn or damaged dog teeth on the synchro ring could also cause this issue. Also the snap ring on the synchro could also cause it to pop out of gear. As far as the actual part number goes, there were several variations of shift forks between the years, best bet is to take it apart and find which one you have. Majestic honda can narrow down the part number to your year if you look it up.

[@tinderbox2351]

Im doing a final gear swap. What is the final drive gear on this transmission?

[@rasheedsmith9788]

When you have a gearbox and it a fry how of gear what the problem ?

[@Cervan]

I think your trying to ask if the bearing goes bad what gears would be affected, if the input shaft bearing is bad then all gears would be affected, but since first gear puts more load on to the input shaft than the other gears while in decel its more noticeable in that gear.

[@DaMilkMan123]

So at the 49:24 mark, you mention: “line up the selectors.” How do I know they are lined up? How do they look lined up? I know this video is years old, but I hope I can get an answer. Thanks in advance

[@Cervan]

its hard to see in the video but the selectors on the bottom have C shaped cutouts on each shift fork, in order to line them up you would just move the shift forks up and down until they lined up together to form a channel that the selector could fall into. Its kinda hard to explain but it would be evident once it was apart.

[@harley8728]

I just had a shop put in replacement 2nd and 3rd gear and a LSd in my transmission, It cost me 400 does that seem high? This is for labor only. The trans was not in the car.

[@Cervan]

It’s reasonable, maybe a little high but then again if the shop is charging 120 an hour and it took them 3 1/2 hours then it’s not too bad

[@harley8728]

thanks for replying back!

[@savagewarriorzz2199]

I have a manual d16y8. My speedometer is not working. I tried swapping out clusters and vss. I might think the speedo gear might be messed up. If it was how much does it cost to get the gear fixed?

[@Cervan]

its only one bolt that holds the VSS sensor on top of the transmission, undo the single 10mm and pull it out and see what the gear looks like. ive never seen one fail, but if the internal gear is broken or destroyed somehow it would require removal of the trans and replacement of the plastic gear on the differential. basically a complete rebuild. Chances are though that the gear is fine, and the actual sensor itself isnt working, or the "link" between the plastic gear and the sensor somehow came apart, check that out before you go tearing into your trans.

[@savagewarriorzz2199]

@@Cervan I have a 2000 Honda civic d16y8. I done a auto to manual swap. It runs and shifts fine. Reverse light work. The speedometer worked on the auto transmission. After this swap now the speedometer doesnt work. I replaced the vss and nothing. So I was thinking the gear itself is shot? But this is a awesome video. Thanks for helping us out out here!

[@DoktorFreaman]

What are the part numbers of the rubber stoppers?

[@kmack2229]

Awesome vid! I wish I found this before I changed my Input Shaft Bearing!! I went to the civic forums and went by pics which were not as complete as your tutorial! Question for you: I knew the order of the washers on the input shaft bearing but did not realize (till I saw it in your video) that there is a specific side facing up. What would happen if the spring washer was put in upside down? Will it cause slow uneven wear? or some type of catastrophic failure while I'm driving? I just finished installing the tranny back in the car in -21c winter. I don't want to have to take it out again just to check...ha ha! Again, great video!

[@Cervan]

I probably would not worry too much about which way it was facing. You might have an issue down the road if the washer wears because it doesn't have enough contact area with the ISB. This could result in unloading the input shaft and cause end play on the input shaft. I probably wouldn't take it apart unless you started hearing noises.

[@kmack2229]

Cool. Thanks for the reply. Just drove across the country.No noises yet.

[@Horatio50B]

Cervan is it the same for the spring washer on top of the countershaft? Is there a way to tell the orientation of the washer without taking the 32mm nut off?

[@Cervan]

sorry for the late reply, no the shim on the bottom of the input shaft is much thinner than the one on the top of the countershaft, so its very easy to identify which one goes where.

[@denverkid2957]

If my 5th gear goes in but pops out is it the gear?

[@strider....D]

How do you take the bearings out of the diff

[@richardangelromero]

I have a SOHC D16Z VTEC with matching 5 speed manual gearbox. Are the shift keys interchangeable between the A000 and B000 5 speed case.

[@Cervan]

Shift keys? do you mean the synchronizers? generally yes the synchronizers did not change through the 88-00 run of transmissions, however the shift forks, and selector sleeves did.

[@richardangelromero]

@@Cervan yes the shift forks of the s20 a000 and s20 B000 are they interchangeable? Mine grinds between gear shift and I want to rebuild it. Best tear down video I’ve seen on this

[@Cervan]

@@richardangelromero as far as shift forks go generally the 88-95 shift forks interchange as long as they have the unitized shift fork assembly setup (check balls not in case) 96-00 steel forks are compatible as long as the check balls are in the case and not the assembly. Also grinding is a good indication of broken shift forks, but it also probably means worn selector sleeves and not worn sychros, out of all of the transmissions I have built very few had worn sychros and many many had damaged selector teeth or sleeves If you want a concrete answer to this, check out d-series.org and use the search function, transex is the legendary trans builder there.

[@redr2]

Thanks, good video. I just split the cases on an '89 D series transmission to check the synchros before install. They look great. BUT, question with the inner input shaft/mainshaft bearing.....the one that occasionally gets stuck in the case when pulling cases apart. Mine spins great, no noise....but how much "axial play" should that large bearing have? I suspect it gets taken up once the main shaft is installed and cases go together but can't tell whats too much? thanks!

[@Cervan]

it’s normal to have a small amount of axial endplay on the bearing but if you suspect it being bad I would suggest replacing it., there isn’t really a spec on those bearings to measure.

[@00sisco]

what happens if you put it back together and shaft won't spin?

[@Cervan]

probably have a gear on the counter shaft backwards, the bearing on the end of the input shaft cocked a little bit causing a bind, or the shift selectors not installed correctly. I should have elaborated on putting the case halves together, you want to put the outer case half on and then wiggle it until you get the snapring seated but you should have no more than 1/16 of space between the case halves when reinstalling. If you have more space that means you might have the shift fork roll pin installed incorrectly where it aligns with the case. basically if you can press down on the case halves and make them meet with your bare hands then your probably fine. try loosening a few bolts and seeing if the mainshaft will spin.

[@austinromeo1508]

Cervan hi I did the rebuild on mine but now on 3rd gear Makes a grinding sounds and 4th gear it engages then at 3000 rpm it grinds and I lose the gear

[@Cervan]

Austin Romeo hmm very odd, you may have accidentally swapped the bearings with the 3/4 sleeve and one of the other bearings causing play. Might want to post a video as it's hard to dish without more info.

[@austinromeo1508]

thanks for the reply now I remember I got a rebuild kit from ebay I noticed one of the bearing was different it's the main shaft Bering the stock bearing it's too peaces so I replaced it with a one peace bearing

[@Megacatares]

the needle bearing on countershaft bottom is supposed to be 2 pieces.

[@00sisco]

haven't started because i was replacing engine clucth is brand new I also but a phantom grip lsd in

[@Cervan]

00sisco if it's grinding or noisy I would suggest pulling it back apart at least to double check. the input should be smooth and not hard to turn with new bearings while in neutral

[@davidrios8055]

Does anyone know where I can buy the shift fork for 1st and 2nd

[@sethallison5682]

Is a cable d series transmission pretty much the same? Any significant differences?

[@Cervan]

They come apart exactly the same, with minor differences between the shift forks and detent styles.

[@sethallison5682]

Cervan thanks!

[@rolandoabella7677]

Awesome vid man, anything special when switching to a LSD? Or does it just install the same as the OEM diff?

[@Cervan]

Rolando Abella the only thing you would have to do extra when installing an lsd is shim the diff bearings to get the correct clearances. other than that it's drop in. if your going for a high up build, you might consider checking the input shaft endplay as well.

[@jamesmedina2062]

Hi, have you rebuilt any newer manual Civic transmissions? Are there any gear oils that will work well besides the Honda brand? Motul makes a lightweight DSG type of gear old that might be good. I have a '17 6-sp Civic. I want to put in an LSD and see about changing the final gear for better hwy economy. Any suggestions?

[@Cervan]

James Speer the only oil I have used with success is penzoil synchromesh or 10w30, gear oil is just too thick to properly circulate and cool the bearings. However I have seen some guys run 50wt trans fluid for semi trucks in dedicated track cars, this works in hot climates where the oil can get hot enough to properly circulate

[@eugenehall390]

I have a 1990 civic Si and it has a "werr" noise that's loudest in 3rd gear. does this rebuild shown here work for that generation trans too? and any ideas as to what may be the noise I have? my plan is to do all the bearings and leave the gears be. it goes through them great with no grinds or pop outs.

[@Cervan]

Eugene Hall a whirring noise or rattling noise are common indicators of a bad input shaft bearing. the noise should be loudest when deceleration in first. this video covers 1988-2000 year transmissions so yes. all of these d series transmissions are basically the same except for 96 to 00 that have steel shift forks and a revised shift fork detent system.

[@MoneyManJake]

I’m trying to replace the bearing on top of the main shaft because the old one broke off inside the housing. Any idea how to get that outer ring of the bearing out of the case.

[@Cervan]

Usually just heating the case lightly with a heat gun, or hair dryer and lightly tapping it on the outside will let it fall out, if it’s really stuck the best way is to weld a bead on the inside of the race it wil fall out without trouble after that

[@MoneyManJake]

I will definitely try that thank you!

[@Cervan]

@@MoneyManJake be careful when your heating the case, there is a plastic oil guide under that bearing race that can melt, also when banging on the outside of the case be sure to use a rubber or deadblow mallet, using a metal hammer could break the case as they are very brittle. Good luck out there

[@MoneyManJake]

I’m assuming The oil guard broke when the bearing did. Is that going to be somthing I need to replace?

[@Cervan]

@@MoneyManJake if you have any pieces of it left over you could potentially glue it or re-melt it into shape. It’s important as it’s one of the only guides to ensure oil gets to the end of the input shaft

[@akio2589]

This is... No... Hell no... You do NOT hit the gears with a hammer... You don't slam the input/countershaft on the ground either... If you don't have the tools to do the job, get them, find someone who does, or take it to a shop. This is a good way to completely fuck up the pretty close tolerances in the trans. Any reputable trans mechanic would be losing their god damn mind...

[@Cervan]

I agree, and i wouldnt normally hit the gears down with a hammer, but this transmission was going into a car that was worth about 200$ and the engine had a bad rod knock. The guy sitting in front of the table is who im building it for, its just a trash tranny for the car but i wanted to show my brother in law how to rebuild his transmission on the cheap without any real tools in his garage, so i did it how he would end up doing it.

[@jyo1244]

So I have a 91 Si without reverse and fifth and 3rd like to pop the when I down shift in two first and second it grinds. Could it still be the pilot drive? Or could it be my synchros? I'm debating on just swapping the trans but I'm looking for the cheaper way.

[@Cervan]

i would check your motor mounts first before removing any parts, if you have bad motor mounts it could cause all of these issues. if you have internal damage to that extent you might want to find another transmission, as the replacement parts new are either not available anymore, or will be cheaper to buy a used one for the parts to rebuild with.

[@bambolamar2797]

What kind of hammer are u using?

[@abewall4965]

i followed your video and the only issues i have is the shifting feels tuff and i am using the same shift linkage in it as before but it was never that tuff but it doenst grind or make any weird noises and also if i am reversing and i push in my clutch my car stops it doesnt coast it just comes to a stop . i have no idea of what to do so please help me if you can!!! Ps. i am using oem fluid so i dont think its that

[@Cervan]

Sounds like something is binding, like a bearing was put in the wrong place. could you spin the transmission by hand once you were done?

[@abewall4965]

Yes i could and shifting gears wasnt hard either everything still works fine but in reverse it locks up and wont coast backwards in reverse

[@abewall4965]

So the reverse thing has stoped now i don’t know why it did that but it fixed itself haha but my second gear needs to be rev match downshifted or it won’t got in unless i shift to first gear and it also shoots out of second and i don’t know why it is because i checked all the syncros an they look fine to me

[@jesusoros3508]

I’m currently doing my transmission, what 10w-30 oil do you recommend?

[@SI0AX]

These are the best oils you can use: Best (obtained through specialty race shops): 1. Amsoil Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid 5W-30 2. Mobilfluid 424 3. Castrol Manual VMX 80W 4. Redline MTL 75W80 GL-4 Gear Oil 5. GM Synchromesh Friction Modified Manual Transmission Fluid Not as good but still good(Can easily get in local autoparts store): Pennzoil Synchromesh Transmission Fluid No NOT use gear oil!

[@andzejus195]

Any 10w40