Full Interview // LIVE CALL-IN: Coach Tom Randall on How to Rest Better on Route, Build Endurance…

Coach Tom Randall is BACK, and this time we've got 5 climbers joining the party! Tom coaches climbers from a wide-range of backgrounds on their climbing issues, including:
• How to train for resting better on route

• Overcoming mental blocks of not feeling ready to push into the next grade

• When to shift from a performance phase to weight training phase

• How much the average climber should focus on climbing vs off-the-wall training

• How to identify and then train up the three endurance energy systems

• How to build endurance on nothing but a hang board

• Tall climber issues and how to address them in the gym vs out on rock

• Blowing Ryan's mind about the measurement system in the UK

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[@derekcraig3617]

it's called "imperial" because it's the British Emperial measurement system....

[@mangiari]

I'm wondering about what "junk mileage" is, if you're getting benefits from moving on rock/plastic for hours in low intensity terrain. Isn't that what most of the non progressing climbers are doing anyhow already?