Modular 3D Printed Enclosure - Making The Door

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

So weird that folks were (or still are?) having language problems with the audio. This was recorded in English, and I didn't change any settings when I uploaded. KZbin takes care of any closed captions and/or other audio tracks on their end automatically. I think I can disable their auto dubbing into other languages, so if this doesn't resolve, I guess I'll have to start doing that.

[@confoojed]

Or perhaps a sneaky way to boost interaction 😄

[@Taliesen.]

I haven't had problems when watching on Safari on a Mac but if I airplay it to an Apple TV or Samsung TV it is in a different language. Been seeing this with quite a few videos in the last few months and it seems to be happening more and more often.

[@bwselectronic]

Weird. I haven't had it happen, but I only use my Samsung phone or my Amazon Fire tablet

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

@@bwselectronic glad to hear it's working for you

[@GamingWithURO]

Played on English on my Samsung Fold.

[@deechvogt1589]

Awesome way to keep it real. No magic of the media for you. Keep up the interesting work and thanks for taking the time to document and share it!

[@charlesvrogers]

Hey look at your hands. They're both working.

[@OakesProject]

Kudos to Laservision. And to you for showing live testing of the product. Great content!

[@rootuser3390]

Fantastic project, think the door would have been amazing if it could use a similar construction method as the frame. That way the door could also be any size. Also opens up access to the project for people who do not have a large bed printer...

[@RNMSC]

One of the things to remember with the laser protection for the door (or housing if people are going to go that route) is that the laser light that will normally get to that surface via reflection, and is not going to be focused. That doesn't change the damage that can happen if it gets to your eyes, but does mean that the laser light at the screen is going to be diffused across a wider area than it would be if it is next to the laser target and in the path. This means that the acrylic (more accurately the die layer for the color/filtering that absorbs the laser light) is less likely to be damaged. Not saying it won't be over time, or as your laser power increases, and you should probably talk with the people that you sourced the material from to see if they have any advice on periodic validation that the filtering is still functioning as expected. You may want to throw a magnet at another point on the door, with a reed switch inside the door frame that toggles a state (either an LED, or whatever the cover detection for the laser is) to activate a safe state to shut down the laser if the door is open.

[@PERKINSP]

nice seen you without the hand brace ,, Thank you for all your work

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

Got it off this Monday. Feels good. Thank YOU for watching.

[@Liberty4Ever]

Another awesome project! I'm going to 3D print an enclosure for my 10W desktop laser engraver for laser light safety and fume extraction. Instead of black CoroPlast, I may use 1/8" thick Falken Design aluminum composite material, also sold as Aluplast sheets. It's a thin layer of aluminum on each face with a polyethylene core. It's approximately the same price as Coroplast and I think it'll make a nicer enclosure.

[@williecat316]

I've been heatsoaking my N4M for an hour since I found your fix video for it. I do get really good results out of it.

[@jkchan83]

I can second your comments about Laservision USA. I also have a fiber laser, but I wanted a face shield instead of an enclosure. They helped direct me to the right materials and model that they sell. Great sales and support team there.

[@mikeycoop66]

It I treating that you included the discussion about the bamboo skewers. I have thought a couple of times about using that round spaces. As a thought for someone who does not have the magnetic option, as a you do, to keep the enclosure from floating on the work surface. They could use a steel rod, or something similar, to add weight to the bottom and make it more stable.

[@joemccall8991]

I know I'm not the only one who kept hearing in my head "The googles, they do nothing!". Congrats on the 25k milestone, looking forward to seeing a silver YT plaque in the future!

[@jamescarter3883]

I'm new here. Great channel idea to bring Practical 3D printing to the toolbox.

[@Hipsta]

Just a thought, maybe you could do away with the set screw and push pin for the lower door hinge, with the frame being in multiple parts, you could set both the top and bottom pins then slide the frame together. That would also make for easy disassembly if needed.

[@Theladorn]

Came here to say exactly this. What an overcomplicated design.

[@Hipsta]

@Theladorn I guess that's what iteration is about start with a design then if possible simplify it if possible

[@lmaoroflcopter]

Now I can hear it in your wonderful dulcet tones and my native language of English what an awesome solution to the flappyness! Keeps the bottom of the enclosure completely free of obstructions and its totally solid.

[@michal.gebauer]

You could simplify the door frame pins bottom one hole half height of the pin and on top full height. Put pin in the top hole and tape it to prevent it falling out. Then remove the tape when door is in for the pin to fall into it. In the door leave bottom of the top pinhole open so pin can be pushed up for disassembly.

[@OffGridOverLander]

I would use some drift pins/spring pins with CA glue instead of PETG filament for connecting the two halves together.

[@Hilmi12]

Don't know what happened Google changed audio language to German and can't make it English. Found the audio track setting but English not listed as an option

[@Hilmi12]

I give up, can't watch the video with this AI dubbed video in a language I can't understand. If this AI was actually smart it should have at least figured out that I only speak English, Arabic and swahilli instead of showing me German, Spanish, French and every other language I don't speak

[@michaelbraaten]

same here!

[@lmaoroflcopter]

Yeah this is broken for me. Can't even select English. Just french, spanish, german and Portuguese

[@MySkullzDented]

Same here

[@CNCSwede]

Same here 😢

[@andrewmalaty8]

As always, an excellent video!

[@davidmeyer9204]

I am sorry that happened to you. No need to apologize. Thanks for sharing and being real. We all know stuff happens . Looking forward to your conclusion. Thanks Again.

[@AndrewHelgeCox]

29:23 I really think you should try to engrave that same line through your safety glasses. You can shoot the rays through the periphery of one of the lenses so you don't ruin them. Why risk your sight?

[@00fiks82]

Maybe next time a when you got a piece of filament stuck inside your part you could use the same technique as removing a clog from a Bamboo hotend. My P1S came with a small allen key you can also use when your hotend is clogged. If you heat this up with a lighter until it starts to glow, jam it inside the filament en let it cool down. It adheres so well you could probably pull it out. At least it worked for a nozzle clog, but of course the surrounding material then is metal, so with PLA filament in a PLA print it might be tricky. Always worth a go, if you were gonna discard it anyways. Keep up the good work!

[@MaxNippard]

Most commercial laser cutters use the lid/door mostly to stop people putting their hands into the beam or in the moving mechanical parts. Ideally materials opaque to the laser frequency would be used but that doesn't seem to be the case.

[@otelia88]

Approx what is the size of the glass for the door? Just as someone else mentioned, a divided design for the window-frame would be appreciated for those that have smaller printers.

[@W.Keeling]

looking forward to the doors, however I was gonna build this for my old Prusa Bear, but thought what the heck and have brought a P1S combo in the Black Friday sales, thanks for the inspiration for an enclosure printer

[@aaronliebeck1062]

This is a great expression of your process. Can you pass on your support settings? Your supported areas are so clean

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

Completely default in Orca. I think the quality of the material and consistency of diameter makes a difference. When I switched to the Bambu PLA Basic from the other cheap PLA I was using, I noticed a significant improvement in overall print quality and support removal.

[@NOFx420x]

Is there a version of the door frame that makes it 4 sections with dove tails so people with Ender3v2 can print it 😊

[@kevinbaker26]

Just printed out and used your Bambu spool buddy. Works great, thanks 😊👍

[@madgurkha3687]

i agree with rootuser smaller peices for the door frame would be awsome! also by doing it like that if you have a fail you arent commiting as much filiment whether it be on the print bed or the mishap with the filiment dowels

[@joell439]

Where would we all be without rabbit holes to explore 😂. Thanks for diving in and explaining. 👍👍😎👍👍

[@johnprouty6583]

The wavelength of the laser has to be considered when selecting the color of the attenuating window. Orange is best for blue lasers (400 - 500 nm), but don’t expect it to work for IR lasers, as you saw it is transparent to 1300± nm. Clear acrylic would probably work best for IR lasers. And your question about whether the color has anything to do with the attenuation, it has everything to do with the attenuation value for a particular wavelength of laser.

[@JrnMortensen1956]

In Denmark we have a hinge called a piano hinge. It is a flat hinge and you buy a piece and saw it into the length you need. And you could go 180 degree.

[@confoojed]

I’m thinking that the piano hinge is going to be much heavier (and more expensive) than using the dowel pins. Plus I’m guessing he’s using the same dowel pins that he used for the spool helper he made a while ago. And to paraphrase, when you own dowel pins, everything in the world looks like a nail?!?😂

[@Rob_65]

Glad to see you found the good stuff for the window. I found a German company (but forgot the name) who delivers different types of windows and goggles. Not cheap though ... The goggles I liked were 500+ EUR but they are almost fully transparent and do not block the visible red from the laser-pointer. Ah yes, the funny audio. Yesterday the original English track was not available on my PC but today, on my laptop, it is. German is not a problem for me but it's just weird to hear you speak German suddenly 🤭

[@badjuju6563]

Ya know you could just use simple pins in blind holes for the hinges as you have a split door frame. you need to remove the frame to remove the door, but you need to remove the frame to access the grub screw anyway...... nice ... the brace is off also maybe use nails with clipped off heads to join the frame halves ... I seen that happening as soon as you said you were going to use filament.

[@ProtonovaR54]

It's probably a little late now, but you could have used ~2mm steel rods used to clean nozzles out. Or those 2mm welding rods from Harbor Freight. Sidenote, glad to see your hand healed :)

[@GamingWithURO]

Lovin the progress. I can't help but wonder, would you be able to do all of the corner framing with the screws on the inside? I just think it would look so much cleaner.

[@spasecookee]

Some of my PLA is so brittle that it snaps off just from being bent in the spool holder. I've tried drying it and still the same. Other things you could try for holding the door halves together: PETG filament, which doesn't break like PLA or a brad nail with the head cut off.

[@Leif_YT]

Had the same issue on multiple channels recently. In the KZbin android app is a setting to switch it back to original audio, but something is going on that KZbin seems to change that on the user side automatically.

[@gfortyjuan]

Paper clip, steady hand and a small torch like the ones they use to take off stringing would of got those out, save you day/s of printing. Straighten clip, heat tip press into center of pla dowel let it cool and pull....

[@TrevorVonSeggern]

Restarting the KZbin app (on Android) fixed my audio track bug. Love your videos btw!

[@TheSimonarne]

Are you attempting a pause or shut off laser sensor if the door is open?

[@DavidRincol]

Cool video about the glass. I was looking at the laser some time ago and getting the acrylic and theeye safty really put me off.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

makes you wonder how good the "safety" windows really are on the enclosed machines too. . .

[@johang1293]

Super glue a piece of filament to the stuck filament and pull it out. Had to do this on hinges before and it works.

[@whatsup3d]

Is the whole grub screw thing needed if the outer frame is in two parts? Why not just put blind pins in and close the frame around the door?

[@Goofy_68]

Not sure it matters, but I noticed when you were screwing in the braces that it was causing the opposite side to bow out. Love the content as always 👍

[@lmaoroflcopter]

Ah man wish I could CAD worth a damn. Just thinking a roller shutter style door might be an epic mod for this. Its not seethrough, but would be amazing for small shops without the space for a swinging door.

[@michaelbraaten]

I do not know how this happened, but I’m getting German overdubs on your video this week lmaoooo I can read the captions in English and the audio is set to English, so I’m confused and laughing at the moment lol To be clear no other videos are doing this, just yours lol

[@haroldgaudinier4213]

Yeah me too, I was like WTF!!!! And cant change it to English!!!!

[@michaelbraaten]

@@haroldgaudinier4213 me neither! It only has French, Italian, German, Portuguese’s and Spanish (US)…. I reloaded the video on another device and got a few seconds of normal audio but then the translation started.

[@lmaoroflcopter]

Wtf yeah same. Its all German not the same accent. Is this AI voice tracks?? Wtf?

[@netwrkops]

Same here.

[@NWGR]

I love seeing projects like this where the scope of the project is beyond just 3d printing. What model is your arbor press? I've been thinking of adding one to the shop for a while now.

[@NottsKnots]

Interesting developments. Would you consider, in the spirit of making the design available when your enclosure design is complete, to make the door and door frame from only edges and corners in the same way as the main enclosure frame so other users can pick the size of the door themselves like they can with the outer frame? Also returning to the T-track idea that you mentioned as non-viable before, perhaps if users wanted to they could just attach a T-track to the outside of the edge profile. (is it flat/wide enough on the 45 deg angle?) I think you made some kind of screw holes on that edge in your last video. Not sure how they might align with off the shelf T-Tracks with pre-made screw holes, but I suppose you can always cut them to length and dril some more.

[@blackpete]

Jep, we all fork up. No worries. I'm excited to see the finished enclosure.

[@michal.gebauer]

Have you tried heating a needle, sticking it in the filament, waiting for it to cool and pulling the filament out?

[@mathieugallant6125]

I suspect the material is reflective to the laser wave length. It probably doesn't absorb it. The damage was probably caused by oil and dirt on the material surface burning up, not the material itself absorbing the energy. I may be wrong as I'm speaking from very little experience with completely different wavelengths, filters and powers, but I would be cautious regardless.

[@charlesvrogers]

I don't know if this will help but my large format printer is in a tent. The top vent is open for PLA/PETG. I use a 15 min. per heat, and TH3Ds Bed glue. Try it you might like it.

[@scottstephenson7996]

I will be making one this weekend. Thanks!

[@rjay1674]

Good to see you have recovered most of the use of your right hand and arm. I have downloaded several of your designs and was looking forward to the door on this project. I only have a Bambu X1c so if I understand correctly, I will not be able to print this door frame. Is there any chance you can modify the dimensions to work with the X1C? I am using your design to make a dehumidifier enclosure for filament. Keep up the great projects. Your videos are the most useful out there.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

Thx! It's a great point on not being able to print the door with a 'normal' volume machine. I can absolutely cut up the outer frame into 4 pieces, it's the bezel for the acrylic that I think will be the issue, as it's so thin and narrow. I'm going to come up with at least one other door design that doesn't require a giant printer.

[@jonbbidwell]

Have you tried the hinges on the face of the frame. It would open 180

[@mikko001]

Why not use metal pins instead of those filament pieces?

[@confoojed]

I’m guessing that the door frame is pretty thin, I’m guessing by the looks of it, not much thicker than 3 or 4 mm. When I made a case that needed to be joined, I designed around the thinnest carbon rod I could find on Amazon (2.5 mm). I think the filament idea is a neat idea … assuming the shear stresses aren’t high … which the end shows it wasn’t sufficient for the pick up (whomp whomp)

[@SoloGamingZA]

Mostly we use Filament pieces in the 3D printing community... I even use filament pieces for hinges on small boxes and I have some that are still working 7 years later. Like he mentioned in the video its old brittle filament that he used... Also the pieces are not suppose to carry that much weight and in an application like this its used purely as a alignment option and you would use some sort of glue or GLOOP to bond the pieces together... I also would not be printing two whole new set pieces. I would just use 2 needle work clothes pins with small drop of superglue on the head and stick it on the filament pieces and then when its dry pull on them out by the pins with set of pliers.

[@fuelgaugeguy]

Have you considered a safety interlock on the door? Alarm or power cut-off?

[@petersinfield8730]

I see the arm is healing nicely, no more cast?

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

Brace came off Monday, and I started phys therapy. I have about 60% motion in it so far, and it's way down on strength, but getting better every day. Thanks for asking.

[@RowanCorbett]

Could you possibly use the same pins to join the doorframe that you used in the hinge? I felt that in my bones when the PLA pins sheared off.😔

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

they're a little too big for the thickness of the frame in that region. I could bring the diameter down on my lathe, but I think just a better choice of filament (someone else suggested PETG) will be ok

[@michaelbraaten]

English audio track is back for me, on desktop and Apple TV! Lol what a strange bug. I reported it so hopefully that helped!

[@bryanknitter8858]

Please do the same test with the orange acrylic and a blue light diode laser. Jtech photonics claims to have "certified" laser safety panels for the diode lasers and I don't know if I believe that it's better than the standard orange acrylic. I used the normal acrylic on my laser enclosure and when framing, I can't see the laser dot through the panel. I do still wear glasses when it's actually burning though!

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

I cut the orange acrylic with my blue light diode, so I can confirm it absorbs it

[@portlyoldman]

Surely the orange acrylic is only going to attenuate laser light in the range of about 400-550nm (depending on the exact colour) ??? Your fibre laser transmits at 1064nm and therefore wouldn't be attenuated at all by orange and that's why the guys sent you a the greenish acrylic which attenuates at that frequency (and some others). The point being that one wouldn't expect the orange acrylic to attenuate your fibre laser AT ALL. The orange is good for the frequencies its good for. Having said that, I would be tempted to buy the rated filter from the specialist company for my own peace of mind 🤓

[@joelvarney5091]

You should have used a logo to test. That way it wouldn't be ruined, it would be a feature! Edit: typo

[@Davesretrodungeon]

The door frame seems overly complicated compared to the actual frame. Why not emulate the outside frame in the door frame so the pieces slip over the plastic sheet and screw in like the outside frame, so it’s like a C shape around the sheeting. Probably not explaining this very well

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

that's a great idea for potentially having the bezel in multiple pieces and relying on the acrylic for overall rigidity and caulk to keep it together. thx!

[@chris993361]

Things must be healing well. I see the brace is gone.

[@1SGBob1]

I did not read all the comments so sorry if this was asked already: Would you be willing to design the door in maybe four parts to allow for printing on an A1?

[@confoojed]

Where is the link to your bamboo skewers? Always nice to have the dimensions of other more affordable bracing material.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

Just added it. Thanks for the reminder.

[@HenricoNar]

Well done , sir ! This should be a 500000 subscriber channel.

[@jamescarter3883]

Can you share your CAD software choice? I'm looking to settle on one. Is it Fusion? Your opinion would be helpfull. Thank You for sharing your problem solving thought process.

[@ComradeJehannum]

Will the file for the door come scale able? Because I don't have a printer the size of a Neptune 4.

[@blackpete]

If you scale it in x and y in the slicer you'll have to drill out the holes, but it should work. You just have to scale all parts! Or print it in parts, you can add dovetail joints in prusa, bambu or orca slicer. With the panel glued in, it should be nearly as rigid as a full print.

[@osgeld]

do you even need to the filament pins with the brackets in place? they are obviously not doing anything (would have used metal pins myself)

[@glennfelpel9785]

Near the end of the video, where you needed to drill out the holes. Wasn't that just support material the slicer put into the openings? It appears like it was. Usually if you take a small wood screw you will be able to thread it in a bit and lift the support material out. In Bambu Studio I am thinking you could exclude this material but it is probably harder to do that than just remove it by hand. But this was a very well done video, Thank you.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

Thx. They were hollow, just really small. I actually put a bevel at the top of the holes so the slicer doesn't try and support them to avoid that.

[@chip8524]

Why not use the same alignment system as your corner parts instead of the filament or use the bamboo skewers for alignment. You can put one inside side plate and one corner on before setting in the opening. Of course you can lay the enclosure on its side and reach in from bottom to put the inside plates on.

[@jamesthomas4080]

Am I losing my mind? I can't find the original English audio track... Google bug?

[@lmaoroflcopter]

Its fixed now :)

[@Ed_Stoddard]

There's something you won't see on other channels, filament hammering... LOL

[@punkreeperful]

Can't you use the brace that strengthen the middle connection to connect the half window parts that yhe the pla filament failed to connect?

[@H2Dwoat]

Hi, may I ask what the cost of the laser resistant acrylic was?

[@richardhobson7724]

Am I correct in guessing you are using FreeCad for the design work?

[@scruffy3121]

I wouldn't trust a Amazon seller for laser safety glasses honestly. Just because glasses are marked they are not guaranteed to be genuine. I would go to a laboratory supplier like Thor labs.

[@blackpete]

If you can't check it, buy from a reputable site. At least if it's safety related.

[@hanifikilic3197]

Why is my sound track in German? I tried to change it but there’s no English option

[@The_Chillguy7]

Did you really need the bottom stiffened because when it sits on a table it should sit flat

[@gregrburnett3400]

How do you like the Neptune 4 Max?

[@charlesvrogers]

No don't reprint use CA glue and long clamps.

[@monkeysausageclub]

Reprinting the frame was just a waste of filament. CA glue would hold that together just fine along with the back plates. It's a great design and I have told a few people about it.

[@blackpete]

I would have probably smashed the parts after trying to repair it for 2hrs. 😂

[@sergeb7945]

I've recently discovered and suscribed to your chanel. Fantastic job, until I see you struggling with cad in some of your videos Let's be honest: sketchup is only suited for floorplans, (and okish in your burger and on your fries) I know learning a new (proper) cad is huge time and effort (especially when you get used to one), but worth every minute spent afterwards Just 2 cents from a guy that got stuck way too long with sketchup as well. Sorry if you already got that kind of comment (probably for a reason)

[@The_Chillguy7]

Do you know about the quidi problems and that it has a fix now?

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

yes, thx. They sent me a new board, but I haven't put it in yet. I never use the heated chamber, so it hasn't been a priority, but I should get it in there before I need it. You know how that goes :)

[@pickleleatherworkx2218]

The audio track is not in English for me

[@sypernova6969]

hey! how's the wrist! the cast is gone....

[@The_Chillguy7]

You should time lapse the 3d prints

[@TheScottsh]

Why doesn't the door and door frame have the same modular nature as the rest of the enclosure? I would think we'd need to be able to resize the door based on the size of the enclosure. Imagine a 1m size enclosure with that door - it would be too small. Also, I could see needing to adjust the door height based on the type of machine especially if you need to get access to controls on the top or bottom of whatever it is.

[@JackPinesBlacksmithing]

Cliffhanger!

[@michaelbraaten]

I am curious about why you didn’t want screws on the front of the door frame? The edge pieces have them all over the place… if those didn’t, I would totally understand not wanting screws in the front of the door frame. It just seems like an out of character choice for the channel. Not criticizing, just curious if there was more than aesthetics going into that design choice.

[@ZeorGaming]

That was my thought as well. Was a tad funny haha. It does indeed look better without the screws though

[@RichardBetel]

I don't really understand the design for the door frame you're doing... you've already made a system that attaches to the coroplast, why not make a single-axis version of it with outside corners, and then bolt it to the plastic the same as the rest of the frame?

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

For clear acrylic for a 3d printer enclosure, that would be the way to go, but check the cost of the laser-safe acrylic, and you'll have your answer. It would be a $1300 window :(

[@Theladorn]

Why reprint the frames? Those little pieces of filament arent doing anything structural. Use metal pins or just rely on the dovetail and the mounting clamps. Wtf.

[@R3D-Remi]

Why can't I play this video in English?

[@ryanfransen3099]

A German video! Wish it was in English, oh well.

[@Tf_Maker]

I had to go to the settings tab to restore the English language 😂

[@ToddRafferty]

My only comment here is on previous episodes, you were pushing hard to stay within the P1S/X1C bed size, and now that's been thrown out the window and we all have to purchase the neptune max for the door. This isn't really sticking the landing as far as a design philosophy goes. :/

[@ToddRafferty]

Also, small drill bit? drill out the filament? :shrug:

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

I plan on having an option for doing them in smaller pieces when we get to the finish line.

[@joebrown3208]

EDIT: We're BACK Baby! --- Impossible to watch with just hand gestures. I think you're trying to have google's ai help, but it's actually making it worse.