Furnace - Draft Inducer Motor | Repair and Replace

In this episode of Repair and Replace, Vance shows how to replace the draft inducer blower in a gas furnace. The draft inducer fan pulls air into the burner. This ensures that there's proper airflow for combustion. If the draft inducer fails, then the furnace will not function properly.
Buy draft inducer blower motors online: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Draft-Inducer-Flue-Exhaust-Blowers-And-Motors-661088
Learn how a furnace works: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoevpX2tnt1glZo
If your furnace isn't working, then watch our troubleshooting guide: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4PQf6Wjn7B4r80
More furnace repairs: kzbin.info/aero/PLCo9SMjkdWBwU5dJaopTR09W7U05fEOF5
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00:00 Intro
00:22 How it Works
00:52 What You'll Need
01:08 Step 1: Disconnect the Furnace
01:29 Step 2: Remove the Inducer
02:19 Step 3: Replace the Inducer
03:07 Step 4: Reconnect the Furnace
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AMRE Supply provides homeowners, service contractors, and property management with the parts and knowledge needed to get the best performance out of any property. Stocking the largest selection of appliance parts, heating, plumbing, lighting, and janitorial supplies, AMRE ships almost anywhere in Canada within 24 - 48 hours. Expert help is available online, over the phone or in person at one of the many locations across Canada.
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[@rayson950]

Thank you for all the info. Someone idw to say who but they wanted to charge me $1200. Just for replacing it. And thanks to you I just saved even the new part. For just $220. In less than 4 hrs I was able to enjoy my heat again. And this people wanted me to wait for 2-3 days to get the part and then make an appointment to install and charge such a crazy amount of money. What a shame!! Not even a military discount on the diagnostic. Karma I guess!! 👍😎🤗

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're just happy to help! With the temperatures so low, waiting 2-3 days would not have been ideal, plus that is quite a premium for a straight forward repair.

[@april464]

Thank you so much Vance for sharing your video! I did it myself in 20 minutes and saved myself hundreds of dollars. Much appreciated! A+++++

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome April! we're just happy to have helped!

[@derwinbonney3260]

Hi , thanks for the whole series of videos you folks do , good information professionally delivered . The only tip I could add is that I always take pictures prior and during disassembly .

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're just happy to help! 100% agree, taking pictures is always a good idea.

[@shondrapritchet4762]

Thank you so much for this video! I was able to remove the old motor and replace it in my furnace with no problems!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome Shondra, we're glad that the video helped you with the repair!

[@mikevasapollo6349]

Very well made video! Thank you!

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you for the kind words Mike!

[@jons4686]

Very useful video. Thank you for the help!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome Jon! We're glad you found it helpful!

[@pibitos003]

Thanks much Master greetings from Maryland .

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're just happy to help!

[@VincentVonDudler]

Good stuff!

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you Vincent!

[@dawoodhussain2085]

Thank you sir, ! Great video,

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're glad you found it helpful!

[@sonny878]

Fantastic! Thank you so much.

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome!

[@johnmilton4164]

Very helpful video, thank you. While working on my furnace, I recently dropped a screw in my furnace. I disconnected and unscrewed the wires and attachments to the inducer motor to look for the screw. Once the motor was detached, I didn't take out the inducer motor out of the furnace but lightly shook the inducer motor until the screw I was looking for fell out. I thought I could feel the flow restricting ring with my hands and it felt like it was in the right place, so I reconnected the wires and screws back to the inducer motor. You probably can guess what I am going to say next. I restarted the furnace and now the furnace is making somewhat loud noises at startup that I never heard before I detached the inducer motor. Since I didn't take out the inducer motor from the furnace to see if the flow restrictive ring was in the right place, I'm wondering if it may be off-centered and causing all this noise when I start the furnace now. I'm going to go back and tighten all the screws but wondering if the flow restrictive ring can have any impact on noise? What exactly does it do? Thank you for any thoughts you may have.

[@AmreSupply]

Hi John, thank you for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful. Just so you know for some odd reason your comment didn't show up correctly and ended up in spam but its visible now. These things happen, and parts can shift when you remove them and put them back into place. The restricting ring allows for similar furnaces with different BTU ratings to use a single inducer motor. The restricting ring will adjust the airflow to what is needed and come in different sizes. Noises can be tricky to narrow down, but it could be something simple such as the inducer blower wheel hitting the side of the housing. That's something that could have been bumped or misaligned when it was re-installed. It would be good to remove the inducer, see if the blower wheel spins freely, then check the alignment of everything and reinstall.

[@traviszarins8979]

Fantastic video. Thank you so much. I'll be replacing my draft inducer motor on my Rheem gas pack. My old draft inducer motor has 2 black wires (connect just as yours do in this video). My new replacement motor has 1 black wire and 1 white wire (again, same connections as yours in this video). How do I know which to connect? Or does it matter in this case?

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you Travis, we're glad that you found the video helpful! Always try to match the wires if possible but there are some cases where the new wires will be different colors. The inducer motor is an AC motor so the polarity of the wires shouldn't matter, so just like solenoids, limit switches, and fuses, it will work in either configuration.

[@owencunningham3477]

Great video. My technician said there is water in the inducer fan, should I replace it or try to clean it out? If I replace it should I do something so it doesn't happen again? Thanks so much!

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks Owen. That is a good question. If you drain the excess water, and the motor is running fine then you shouldn't need a replacement. Its worth checking the condensate drain line. In some setups the inducer will have a drain pipe that will directly go into a drain. In other cases a condensate pump is used. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpSvmayCqpVgr5o In either case, make sure that the line isn't clogged so that the condensate can properly drain out and not build up.

[@pradhanbalter3796]

Hi and thank you for an excellent video and encouragement! I am definitely a diy'er. My friends Bryant furnace has a very noisy inducer motor. My question is what is the rationale for replacing the entire assembly vs just replacing the motor? Except for the motor, nothing else is moving, correct? Sounds like a bad bearing or something akin to that. Also, I like to support folks such as yourself who provide the service of excellent videos, but you are in Canada, correct?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching! We're glad you found it helpful. Overall Inducer motors are sold as fully enclosed assemblies, as any disassembly of the blower can compromise the seal and potentially create pressure issues. You are right, we are in Canada, and we do ship to the USA but with with the lockdown still being lifted, shipping over the border is not back to normal so it might take a while.

[@dannynguyen4857]

thank you very much.

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome!

[@knopfrob]

i have a Coleman furnace just like the one in the video. when it snows or we get heavy fog. my furnace will shut down. there is a hose on the inducer that i can blow into and usually i can get it going again. i think its because of condensation you really can here water in the inducer. my question is can that be cleaned out. or does it have to be replaced.

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Rob, it sounds like there is a lot of moisture in your area. If there is water draining back into the inducer blower assembly, then you could remove the assembly and try draining the water manually. The motor is exterior to this assembly so its unlikely that water will damage the motor. Also check the condensate drain pipe to see if its angled down enough. You want to make sure that the water flows away from your furnace.

[@tbischof430]

Great video. My furnace required a new inducer motor . The gas tech replaced it but he had to loosen the air intake pipe to the furnace for the furnace to start. There was no clogs in the intake pipe. Could the new inducer motor be creating too much negative air flow inside the furnace and won't allow combustion to occur ? Could that be a flow restrictor ring problem.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. A new motor could have a different airflow than the previous one. Without seeing the before and after it's hard to know for sure if the problem would have been solved by a flow restrictor ring.

[@RJ-Caliluv]

Hi. Just found your video. Thank you. What's the price range a technician normally charges to replace this part and labor?

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you for watching. We can't speak to the exact prices as this will all vary. Usually there is a diagnostic fee. It can cost $100 or more to get someone in the door to diagnose the problem. To replace an inducer motor this could be upwards of $400.

[@sherinsafwat9659]

thank you

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome Sherin!

[@ghlu7694]

Hi, I have an Amana AMVC 950905DXAA furnace which was installed in April 2010. From last couple days when the furnace runs it produces an intermittent squealing noise which can be heard at the air intake vents I have inside the house. The furnace will run quite and then for few minutes the squealing noise will be there and it will run quite again. Is it the bearings on the inducer motor? How can I troubleshoot it. Your help will be very much appreciated. Thanks

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Gurdip, thank you for watching. With the power disconnected you could try turning the inducer by hand to see if there are any sticking points or if it feels rough or restricted to turn. If the inducer bearings are worn out, then its best to replace the inducer blower assembly. Because its a sealed system, almost all inducers are sold as a complete blower assembly and are designed to be replaced as one unit. Opening the unit to disconnect the blower and replace the motor would compromise the construction and the air seal.

[@schwanzmunster2503]

My inducer motor makes this electrical zapping noise when it goes to start up then its quiet. Should I replace it? Transformer and start up capacitor are both new

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Since it happens only when its starting could be one of the contacts in the relay on the control board. It could also be a loose connection or a worn out motor winding. Relay issues are hard to narrow down but with the power off you could check for continuity between the inducer motor contacts and the metal housing of the furnace to see if it is shorted to ground. Regardless If it runs properly after startup then it might just continue to work for a little while but its best to keep an eye on it.

[@thebigswoe4860]

Had my furnace serviced and they said I need a new inducer motor. The part was about 450 plus they said around two hours labor. Should I do this myself by watching this video? Seems two hours is a lot for this job, no? Thanks for this video btw: awesome!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome Nicholas, we're glad you found the video helpful! Sometimes techs will bill for setup or transitional time or time to test things as well but in most cases this repair will take less than an hour. As long as you find an exact matching inducer motor assembly, this repair is straight forward. If you are confident in the steps then it is a repair that you can do. If you are unsure, then let the Service Technician handle it.

[@bettypoe3093]

I have a Haier furnace whos Draft Inducer Motor is burned out.The Draft Inducer motor is a Fasco 7062 5870.There is no replacement part that I can find anywhere.I am hoping that I can get help from you,else I will have to buy a new furnace.Thanks for your videos giving me hope.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Some motors will be listed on cross reference sheets which can sometimes be found on manufacturer's websites. If a similar model had the exact same specs and physical dimensions then it will be compatible. Not all variety of motors are available. In some cases it can be helpful to look for any other part numbers on the inducer and try searching for that as well.

[@ao341]

What is the plastic thing the draft inducer mounts too? It has what looks to be water drip line. My draft inducer went. I replaced it, but noticed the plastic is cracked where the foam gasket sticks too. Could that crack be allowing water to make its way into the draft inducer. Causing the draft inducer to fail after 4-5 years? We replaced it about 5 years ago. The plastic wasn't cracked during the replacement process. I dont want to blow another draft inducer motor in a few years, if I can help it. I will replace that cracked piece as well. Please any info is appreciated. Thank you.

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you for watching. The piece you are referring to is often called a condensate pan or collector. In some furnaces the condensate water is removed by a floor drain and in other models a condensate pump is used. If the condensate drain line is clogged, then condensate will build up in the inducer motor. First check to make sure that the lines are all good and have clear access. As well ff either the inducer motor, the housing or the condensate pan is cracked then its best to replace it. The condensate pan is not a very common part to replace and is often hard to find.

[@gedward777]

I have a Lennox GHR32V gas furnace, I suspect I have water in my inducer motor, is there a way to empty the water without pulling the motor out?

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Ed, thank you for watching. Your furnace should have a condensate drain that either leads into a condensate pump or a floor drain. First make sure that the drain tube is not clogged and that the check valve is working. This is shown here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpSvmayCqpVgr5o That might help drain the water. If that doesn't help then the easiest way to remove the water is to remove the inducer assembly.

[@artarias4164]

Good Information, Thank you. Hopefully someone can offer advice. I have an American Standard HE (Freedom 90) installed in 1992. Heater was cycling on and off and I kept hearing a gurgling noise, so I called for a service rep. He cleaned my fire sensor and that seem to resolve the cycling on and off, however he pointed out external water under the Draft Induced Motor (DIM). He pull the bottom drain on the DIM and watched condensate come out, the PVC drain pipe has a short run to the ground floor drain it did NOT appear to be clogged. So question is 1. Can I change out the DIM -or- add new seal to resolve? 2. Or buy a new unit as Service Rep indicated.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching, we're glad you found the video helpful. If the draft inducer motor is clogged then the water will build up, mess with the pressure and trip the pressure switch. If its just not draining properly then replacing it should resolve the problem. Alternatively some flue vents are installed incorrectly which can cause the condensate in the pipe to flow back into the draft inducer motor. If the flue vent is the problem then water might still build up even if you replace the draft inducer motor. As for the seal, you might be able to find the part but that might be hard to find for that particular model. Overall replacing the inducer is less expensive than a new unit, but considering the furnace is almost 30 years old there might be other components that might need to be replaced in the near future.

[@zs9458]

Hey does anyone know if the inducer motor and the restrictor plate is needed to run the AC(central air)? My furnace gave out this past month and the restrictor plate behind the inducer motor has a big open crack in it but I don’t have the money to fix it right now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching! The inducer motor removes exhaust gases from the heat exchanger and is only active during the heating cycle. The blower fan will be active during cooling but the inducer is not needed for air conditioning.

[@Mister_Y]

Is it possible to replace just the actual motor and not the whole assembly? Would it be more/less involved or the same? I’d imagine it would be cheaper as well.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. It would depend on the model on how accessible the motor is. If it looks like a sealed unit like the example in this video, then it's going to be more difficult. Other models the motor might be mounted to a separate bracket. You'll still need to remove the blower wheel off of the shaft, similar to how you would for a bathroom fan: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iWi0d3ywdr9kgrc

[@xJudgementalist]

whats that piece called right behind the blower?

[@AmreSupply]

That is the condenser pan.

[@xianli6488]

Is this a diy job and require licensing, like when the central ac isn't cooling house which requires freon?

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Xian, thank you for watching. This is not a sealed system like an AC or a refrigerator. The pressure switch monitors the exhaust gas pressure, so once the furnace stops running, the inducer will continue to run, clearing the flue of exhaust. When the furnace is not running there is just room air inside the draft inducer and vent. Replacing the inducer motor assembly is pretty easy overall but if you don't feel comfortable with the repair then it is best to contact a professional.

[@metatechnologist]

Thank you for this video and your parts service. However the inducer motor may require a run capacitor and that should either be checked or replaced at time of service imo.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. You are right that its often best to replace the capacitor when replacing the motor. For general information, we did a whole video on capacitors here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJzKqYGCeNegqJI

[@ilkamarquardt6704]

does the new induce need to be converted for LP? thank you

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If you match the part # exactly then it should be compatible and you shouldn't have to change anything unless its specified in the manual or the PDF for that part.

[@mikevasapollo6349]

Would this installation be similar to a Crown bimini boiler motor replacement?

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Mike, thank you for watching! I am not familiar with that particular model of boiler. Generally inducers are fairly similar in the way that they are mounted but you'll get different mounting screws in different places from model to model. Also check to see if the inducer comes with a gasket.

[@mikevasapollo6349]

@@AmreSupply First off I'd like to say thank you very much for replying ! I'm pretty sure it fairly similar, it came with gaskets and screws I just didn't know if there was any specific thing you have to do after installation or just let the computer figure it out. We had a guy here that diagnosed it Sunday (luckily a friend!) But I've been trying to reach him and hes very busy. So just wasn't sure there's no special procedures afterward.

[@AmreSupply]

@@mikevasapollo6349 You're welcome. Once the inducer motor and the pressure switches are hooked up again everything should function as normal.

[@surge337]

Thanks for this video! My furnace was making a humming sound and I had a technician come out. After cleaned the furnace and grease the motor. He said that he advises I just replaced the entire furnace. Due cost of parts and labor and other things that will eventually go bad, he said it’s not worth repairing a furnace. The furnace is about 17 years old and is a high efficiency furnace. It’s been a week or so and now since he came and the furnace is way louder than before he came. From watching your videos, I’m assuming it’s the motor...I know the life span they say with furnaces are typically 20 years. I guess what I wanted to ask is if what he is saying is true and should I just replace the entire furnace instead of spending money to just repair the motor? Although a 17 yr old furnace is old...I guess I don’t feel like it is compared to my last house that had a 30 year old furnace and was running just fine lol. Anyhow any feedback you could give would be greatly appreciated.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. The discussion of when to repair vs when to install a new unit is a tricky one and will be different in each case. The older a furnace gets, the more likely you'll get little problems or have to replace small parts. In some cases technicians will recommend new installations, often they do the install themselves and are happy to get more work. In other cases the technicians observe what is needed to keep the furnace running and see that it would add up. There are many parts that are pretty simple to replace and that don't cost a lot to replace. (furnace ignitor or limit switches etc) But if you pay for a service call and parts and labour for those repairs, it would add up more quickly.

[@alexandrialitzau9062]

Hi! When you took the inducer blower off/put it back on are there gaskets with the screws? Thank you

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Alexandria, on this particular model there were no gaskets on the screws.

[@streetcruise9807]

When enducor motor goes bad do you need to change the whole furnace? My furnace is over 40 yrs old

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. In most cases the inducer motor is easy to install if available. If the furnace is 40 years old then it might be harder to find a compatible inducer fan.

[@streetcruise9807]

@@AmreSupply thanks I feel like the plumber wants to get more money he advised to changed the furnace.

[@AmreSupply]

@@streetcruise9807 If the furnace was 15 years old and it was suggested that you needed a new one then it would be good to be skeptical. With a 40 year old furnace, you are more likely to need some more maintenance sooner than later. Installing a new furnace will cost more upfront but you're not going to have to put the same time and money into repairs in the short term.

[@streetcruise9807]

@@AmreSupply thanks I understand

[@mariobennett1608]

What is the purpose of the inducer motor restriction ring?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. The restrictor ring allows the inducer motor to be properly matched with a specific furnace.

[@aresthedesesparrago503]

What is the problem when have code 57 at furnace? Thanks

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Furnace codes will vary per model / manufacturer. The codes & meanings might be written on the manual or on a chart on the inside of the lower door cover.

[@morielly1979]

Hey Vance. Do you do refrigeration too?

[@AmreSupply]

Currently working on a series on refrigerator troubleshooting. Does that count?

[@alexvarela5393]

Lollll underrated joke

[@rabidcougar6465]

My Bryant furnace was leaking water onto the floor. The repairman came out and found a leak at the inducer motor shaft seal that was leaking down the front of the motor assembly and down the drain tube to the blower compartment. So yesterday he replaced the inducer motor and cleaned the pilot. Well, this morning I just went down to check it out and discovered that it is still leaking...........Why? I paid $75 on day one for him to come out and check the furnace and he gave me the estimate. Then yesterday when he replaced the motor and the 3 wire pilot it cost me an additional $643. Obviously I'm going to have to get him back to my house but I certainly hope it isn't going to cost me more money since it should have been fixed yesterday. If you have any thoughts I would appreciate hearing from you.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. These kinds of problems can be sometimes difficult to narrow down. It could be a venting issue creating more condensate than normal. As well there could be an issue or a blockage in the drain line going to the drain (or condensate pump) preventing the water from draining out, which would cause it to build up. With a buildup of condensate it can leak even with a new inducer and a good seal. Hopefully this helps!

[@franciscoavalos6242]

What’s the problem if when I turn the heat on, if I set it on auto doesn’t blow any air and I put it, on it just blows air but not hot air?

[@gyarr]

That's normal. It's your main fan setting. On = running all the time, thermostat cycles heat on/off as needed; auto = only running when the thermostat calls for heat.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching Francisco. Gyarr is right and explained it well. Also If you ever want to test if your furnace is running and don't want to wait in auto, then just set the thermostat to 10° higher than normal. The furnace will kick on in the auto setting. After you verify if its running then just set it back to the normal temperature

[@berrisbogle]

Could it be that draft inducer motor is bad why it keep running and never goes off?

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Roshard. If your furnace keeps running and never goes off, first check your thermostat. Make sure that its set to heat, and that the fan is set to [Auto], as this will run it only when heat is needed. If the fan is set to [On] it will cause the blower fan to circulate air 100% of the time. If the furnace cycles on or off then it could be a safety switch. If the inducer motor is bad, then it will trip the pressure switch and you should get an error code for the low pressure. We mention the error codes here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4PQf6Wjn7B4r80

[@berrisbogle]

@@AmreSupply thank you for that information. but question why do the draft inducer motor just keep running even when the a.c unit is on it never goes off even when I am not sending heat?

[@AmreSupply]

@@berrisbogle It is unusual for the inducer to keep on running even when the A.C is running as its well outside of normal function. It could be a faulty control board or thermostat. As the wiring can differ a lot between models and its harder to test, so it might be worth getting a professional to take a closer look.

[@madwind77]

My furnace runs for 5 minutes and then it would shut off and then it will cycle again for 5 minutes and will repeat a few times and completely stop. The unit stops because the high limit switch triggers due to high temperature. The inducer blower motor runs, and everything else seems to check out okay. Have you seen this before and if so, could this be due to the inducer motor fan speed not being able to keep up with the rest of the unit during heat exchange?

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Tony, it might be good to watch this video on short cycling, and to check what code your furnace is giving you. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGHWcnqqYpahn7c Overall it does sound like your limit switch is starting to fail, and might be triggering at a lower temperature than normal. Generally if the inducer fan creates enough airflow for combustion, nothing would change once the blower fan runs. If there is not enough pressure, or if the draft inducer wasn't doing its job, then the pressure switch will trip. Your furnace should give you a code if this happens.

[@madwind77]

@@AmreSupply The high limit switch is new and did not resolve the problem. The code is "Limit Switch Open" and the technician suggested changing the inducer motor because its pulling high AMPS, the furnace will continue to run for a while, but will eventually overheat and stop. The inducer motor is FASCO A156 and sb pulling 1.1 AMPS, but the meter readers 1.0 AMPS. How would this impact the furnace and trigger the high limit switch? Will changing the inducer motor resolve the issue?

[@AmreSupply]

The most likely reason for a high limit switch to trip is reduced airflow, such as a clogged furnace filter, or a dense filter that is too restrictive for your furnace. With reduced airflow over the heat exchanger, the furnace will slowly overheat until it trips the limit switch. Keep in mind that the inducer motor draws air into the heat exchange, so if the inducer isn't functioning correctly or if there is airflow restricting the air leading into the inducer, the pressure inside the heat exchanger will decrease and it would trip the pressure switch instead of the limit switch. Also an amp draw increase of 10% is pretty minimal, if the inducer was drawing 2 amps or half the rated amps then that would be more of a concern.

[@xianli6488]

Does this require drill or no?

[@AmreSupply]

HI Xian, thank you for watching. You will not need a drill for this. A screwdriver will work to remove the screws.

[@homealone5087]

I just replaced my inducer. Had to run a bead of RTV on the back of it to make the seal. Do I need to wait 24hrs for the sealant to cure before running my furnace?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. The full cure happens at 24 hours but if you ask in forums you'll find people who have waited less. Depending on how cold it is, 24 full hours can mean that the temperature inside your home can drop significantly which slows down the curing. You might find that 6 or 12 hours will do fine. Regardless make sure that the room is warm to help the curing.

[@homealone5087]

@@AmreSupply thanks for the info

[@AmreSupply]

@@homealone5087 You're welcome, just happy to help.

[@homealone5087]

@AMRE Supply So it looks like it's leaking from the wheel fan housing. Is this common?

[@AmreSupply]

@@homealone5087This can happen. If there is water leaking from the inducer blower assembly then check the drainage hoses to make sure that any condensate can easily drain away from the unit. There might also be a blockage at the condensate pump: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpSvmayCqpVgr5o

[@manuelolea7724]

my problem is this I want to change my furnace exhausted inducer motor the original one is rotation CWLE p/n 45037-001 no.702110602 can I use this model# 45037-001 no.702111106 with rotation CCWSE.

[@AmreSupply]

Those parts should be the same. CWLE and CCWSE are the same direction just different ways of wording it. Here's a brief explanation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHenaoOubsafg6c

[@chezchezchezchez]

I'm in Las Vegas and (11-6-2020) I paid $750 for this part and labor. Did I get ripped off? Honestly. Thanks!

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Jim, thank you for watching. $750 is within the normal quote for this kind of a repair that includes parts and labor. Part of the labor cost often goes to cover the overhead and will seem higher than what most people think an acceptable hourly wage is, but in a lot of HVAC companies there are administrators and other staff that are supporting the technicians. There are many homeowners that have done these repairs themselves and saved some money, and other homeowners have hired someone while supporting their local community. The matter of value is up to you to decide.

[@chezchezchezchez]

@@AmreSupply thx

[@utah133]

My Tempstar furnace is only 5 years old, and already the front ball bearing in the inducer is noisy and failing. A check indicates that there's no replacing the bearing itself, as the plastic blower housing is glued or welded shut permanently. I ordered a new blower. $125 for something that in days of yore could be fixed with a $3.00 part! Dayum!

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for sharing your experience. Bearings will wear down over time and you are right that the inducer blower are a little more self contained and not are generally sold and replaced as a single unit.

[@Rick-tb4so]

Can you just replace the motor itself??

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Rick that is an excellent question. Because its a sealed system, almost all inducers are sold as a complete blower assembly and are designed to be replaced as one unit. Opening the unit to disconnect the blower and replace the motor would compromise the construction and the air seal.

[@Javajin]

Our furnace stopped working. Technician is asking $2350 to put a new motor (his service charge is included in the price). I really don’t think it should cost this much. Where do i get a new motor?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. That seems quite expensive all together considering that the cost of the draft inducer motor is just a fraction of that. AMRE carries a variety of draft inducer motors. You can see them here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Draft-Inducer-Flue-Exhaust-Blowers-And-Motors-661088

[@joemiria2850]

👍🏻

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching!

[@luanpham7469]

My inducer motor runs constantly on cool mode, what is problem ?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If the inducer fan motor keeps on running all the time, then it's most likely due to a tripped safety such as the high limit switch. It could also be due to a bad relay on the control board that could be stuck.

[@AmreSupply]

@@luanpham7469 Thanks for watching. When it comes to these sorts of things, it can be difficult to narrow down as circuit boards can't really be tested. It could still be the thermostat or the control board but it's still best to check that all the connections are secure. The thermostat is relatively easy to replace. You can learn more here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqS7oaOKirB8Y7M As well you can see how to replace the control board which is often located next to the blower fan: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aoS8aZ-IoZ17jJI

[@luanpham7469]

@@AmreSupply, Yes, the suspect is control board. I😀It cost me $70 orders on Ebay. Thanks for help

[@louishollandjr]

Why motor leaking from little slot in Front Goodman Furnace Draft Inducer Blower # 22307501 (FB-RFB501)

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If its water leaking from the draft inducer motor then its most likely that the condensate drain basin on the furnace is clogged, or the condensate pump might have a blockage in the check valve. You can learn more about the condensate pump in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpSvmayCqpVgr5o

[@jayrobinson485]

I went to AMRE store in Richmond BC...I was told by a loud rude old woman that there is no returns on any electrical devices. So the Inducer motor was not returnable even if is defective... That is probably against Provincial consumer law For example...if the unit is defective from the time of purchase..I refused to submit to the outrageous policy of AMRE and bought it on Amazon...

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Jay, thank you for sharing your experience with us. Currently there are no provincial consumer laws guaranteeing the right to return an item. The "no returns on electrical items" policy is meant to help ensure that all electrical parts are brand new, and fully functional when someone needs the part. If a part is damaged during shipping or was defective at the time of manufacturing then that's a different scenario. Incorrect installation of electrical parts can result in damaged that is not always visible or obvious. Its similar to how auto-parts suppliers will not accept returns on certain functional items like spark plugs or brake pads. In any case I have shared this with the Richmond manager so we can ensure that matters like this are communicated more effectively in the future.

[@DavidSmith-rv2hw]

is this a canadian channel. i just got back from a lennox dealer, who refused to sell me a flame sensor because i was not a contractor. he told me he can't legally sell me parts? you sell parts to anyone?

[@halsimonson9973]

David Smith I’ve bought a lot of flame sensors in my day, at Home Depot

[@AmreSupply]

Hi David, thank you for watching. At AMRE, we keep parts accessible to those who really need them, this includes contractors and homeowners. You can see the flame sensors available here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Ignitors-HV2L

[@DavidSmith-rv2hw]

@@halsimonson9973 home depot has nothing my way. I got her fixed!!!

[@kissfan8675309]

I need a new inducer motor but there is literally no info what so ever on my furnace. No brand name no model numbers nothing.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Is there a part number on the inducer motor itself? Any specifications that you could use to match?

[@kissfan8675309]

@@AmreSupply good thinking I’ll check tonight thanks for putting that in my brain!

[@AmreSupply]

@@kissfan8675309 You're welcome, we're just happy to help!

[@Gonefishing185]

Take a few pictures of everything before you take apart anything

[@AmreSupply]

That is a great all around tip for any repair!

[@Gonefishing185]

@@AmreSupply so my 10-year-old furnace, the blower motor got a little squeaky, so I replaced it easy enough. Now it’s so quiet it’s easy to notice how loud the inducer motor is. It looks easy enough to swap out, just reluctant to spend $250 on the part simply because it’s a little noisy. Your thoughts ?

[@AmreSupply]

@@Gonefishing185 When it comes to the inducer motor, not all bearings can be lubricated or adjusted, so if the inducer is starting to get noisy then it is a sign that the inducer is starting to wear out. It might not give you a problem right now, but it's something that you should keep an eye on. If the furnace ever short cycles or shuts off before igniting, check for any pressure switch codes, and that'll tell you if the inducer has failed.

[@teaoneverage9745]

I got a estimate to do this job for 1900$ I spent 100 on the part and 15 minutes doing the job. I will not be hiring that company to replace my furnace as I think they went way too far.

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you for sharing, you're not the first person to receive an extremely high quote. There are some very honest technicians out there who want the best for the customers, and then there are others who will try to take advantage of someone's lack of understanding of the furnace. We feel that even if someone doesn't do these repairs themselves, this information is still helping to increase their understanding of their furnace, which hopefully helps them make better decisions on what repairs and what prices are reasonable.

[@martinhodgson8182]

There's no way any of these comments are real.. this is hilarious and also infuriating at the same time... society sucks

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. We answer comments on all of our videos and since the video was posted we could see the comments slowly come in over time. We also take time to answer each question not uncommon for someone to reply multiple times to ask further questions as we clarify some of the information. I can assure you that these are not bots but people genuinely asking for help or someone who is grateful for the video. We end up deleting spam and bot comments but these are easy to spot as it is not related to the content, or is trying to get someone to click on a link.

[@crand20033]

One company i asked told me it would be 1200 dollars to replace it. I won't be calling them.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. The cost for replacement often includes parts and labor and some markup as well. 1200 dollars does seem a bit steep though.

[@crand20033]

@@AmreSupply At those inflated prices, the customer needs to start learning how to do it himself. There comes a point where it is just a rip off unless he is a millionaire at which point he doesn't care. Sometimes a second opinion will reveal nothing was wrong. What I did was get 3 other estimates which were a hell of a lot lower. But I'll just get the part from Ebay and put it in myself.

[@fernandolanda4495]

Autotune would help you out, wait... nevermind

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching.