Fusion 360 - How To Model Snap Rings for 3D Printing - Ask LarsLive

How To Model Snap Rings for 3D Printing is a snippet of Sunday's Ask LarsLive. You Can watch the full episode here:
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[@swiftrick15]

Lower the model below the build plate all the way to the section you are unsure if it needs supports. Then do a test print. Easy as. Love your work mate.

[@cadcamstuff]

Nice trick, thank you

[@swiftrick15]

@@cadcamstuff You are more than welcome. And it is I who should thank you. And do. Thanks mate. 👍

[@karlosss1868]

Great Vid Lars! Every time I watch your videos to learn one thing I end up learning heaps more. In answer to your question, 3d printers don't really require supports unless the overhang is around 60 degrees. You did mention the lid being round will make the snap fit more difficult. I estimate the snap fit offset distance from the main tube is about 2.5mm meaning the lid will need to stretch 4mm in total (inc the clearance) in two axix & this will still be too difficult despite the cut-outs you made. You did a good job with Cura... well done!

[@cadcamstuff]

Thank you for the great comment👍😊

[@adamtjames]

Hey Lars! Thanks for the shout out! Great video. Should have some awesome content coming very soon. Fusion Rocks!

[@cadcamstuff]

Awesome! Looking forward to it!!

[@samdipasquale879]

Always appreciate your videos. For 3D printing, assuming an 0.4mm nozzle; set your layer height to 0.2 and infill to 10% for this design. This should cut your print time by about 20 hours. Also, don't be afraid to try a 0.6mm nozzle. Great prints and even less time!

[@berndshana]

Hi Lars...print at 0.2mm layer hight....no support needed Make the wall thickness about 1.5 mm and 25% infill.... The snap ring might be a bit too big to work

[@SebastiaanSwinkels]

Generally, you won't need support for 45 degree angles. Cura also does adaptive layer heights based on features, that'll shave quite a bit of time off of that print. As far as the model goes, I'd suggest making the protruding ring on the tube less wide as the lid needs to stretch to slip over them. Right now you're asking a solid lid to stretch 8mm. A larger relief on the open end of the lid would help, but simply cutting the protrusion down would help a lot more. Plus less print time.

[@Duraltia]

3D Printed a bunch of parts on my i3 MK3S including such features as threads obviously working with angles and the 30° overhang caused by a BSP one printed flawlessly without Supports. I assume it wouldn't work with just a normal bridge-like overhang but even the ACME type thread, which is a 14.5°, printed decent enough to be usable - A little crunchy though - Which kind of assists in keeping the Lid closed =)

[@douglass69]

I can't believe how long it takes to print those, crazy. Thanks for more ideas.

[@stefanbergh]

Great video, thanks! A print like this I would never do in .1 layer height as it takes forever. Do it in minimum .2 which will cut print time in half or even better .3. And you also do not need supports for 45 degree angles. To speed things up a bit more you should lower your infill to like 5-8% max for a print like this, I would probably just skip it altogether though :)

[@103apartment]

Been waiting for this video. Thumbs up

[@cadcamstuff]

Awesome

[@MrRenoman2011]

How do you create a cylinder with rings on it. Not sure if you covered this before or not. Great videos thanks

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

I put a 1.2mm ring similar to yours on a ~70mm cylinder. No clearance on the lid as it slip-fits. No chance of the lid sliding over the ring w/o a press or vice clamp. Have to go back and reduce the ring and maybe add a chamfer to the lid to help slide over. Not sure I want lid-base clearance though. Might have to.

[@danw.7935]

Nice! Super helpful!

[@cadcamstuff]

Thank you

[@GuitarMattC]

Is there no automated method of doing these snap fits in fusion? There are tons of prefabricated features and plastic tools that you can do this with in Autodesk Inventor, but none on Fusion?

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

I need to add this to my step bit holder. Have an alignment tab already and zero clearance between lid and body. Fits almost snug, but a ring like this would be the final to help it stay together.

[@pawanv86]

I usually check print preview to check if the printer prints in air or if it has enough material under it to print. Usually 60degrees is the maximum I go without having to print support material

[@tomherd4179]

No 3D expert, but I seem to remember my less expensive Tevo Tornado can print without support up to 50 degrees (probably should qualify with proper temperatures, etc.). The CURA options are under Custom tab in your video. Sometimes I will print a skirt just to prime the extruder, etc. Somone below also mentioned less infill %, proper infill choice (cubic, etc vs. lines, cubic stronger), faster printing speed, and whatever. One could probably turn your design out on a lathe much faster than on the 3D printer, well I know I could.

Hold ctrl after you put in a number in the chamfer tool and you can keep add or remove lines to fillet or chamfer.

[@youswizz1]

Hey lars If I have a word jumbled together how can I separate them if the character of the font stuck then together on fusion 360 ??

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

Chamfer for horizontal, fillet or chamfer for vertical edges. Printers handle that arrangement best.

[@mmbourget]

wow! You made that lid way to solid to snap like that! Plastic is too strong, I did not see the final result on this but I am very sure that is way too much interference, I was waiting for you to increase the diameter of the leading-edge as the lid comes down on the triangle you made, also, do a fast test print to confirm it works, not a 3 day print to find it dose not work. Right? Anyway I would like to see if it did work as designed.

[@marcelocabello6589]

Marcelo Cabello You have the best begginer tutorial for Fusion360 however you are not using the latest version that we, actual begginers, can get from AutoDesk so we can follow but there are several points where you can get lost and have to try and retry until you find how it can be done in the last version. It would be great if you could just remake those three first tutorials but using the latest version of Fusion 360. Anyhow congratulations

[@avejst]

Nice walk through Good design, and NO, no support is necessary to print with 45 deg. slope. Thanks for sharing :-)

[@temujinkuechle6287]

I had that problem with my 3D space navigator mouse, “drifting”. I got it replaced as it was under warranty still.

[@jwonderfulsuccess]

What do you think of a spherical snap on?

[@ultradryan]

I hv been doing a lot of 3d printing but i do wonder if this really work in real life. unless it is printed with some flexible material? have you tried printing it out to see if it works? Cuz i hv been design and printing similar things with PLA, ABS or even resin type materials and this design looks tricky. From time to time I hv difficulty at getting the exact right tension for snap fitting parts especially for ring type snaps. I realizes when the object is with a circle/ring opening, the shrinkage is a bit more different thus the tension varies.

[@BLau-oi4zc]

I share your opinion, the fit would be really tight. You could try to cut away some areas of the snap fit ring to decrease the strentgh you need to put the lid on or off. FYI I did some snap fits with hemispheres, it doesnt work with every material and sizes of lids and bases. Here is the link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4030760 Ya I know it can be a pain in the butt to test out the fittings, and yes the tension varies. 3D printed parts aren't strong in snap fitting connections, but the nice thing is, that you can save screws, weight and avoid using metal in general. I would love to see your snap fits and your solutions. There is also a video made by devin montes, he made the polypanel connection. I highly recommend taking a look at them: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIPEnoqto8ypgck

[@ultradryan]

​@@BLau-oi4zc i found U shaped pegs with really small barb at the tip are most reliable ones to balance between the brittleness and tensions of ABS/PLA material. I make prints for toy prototypes so the joints are made to be played around a lot and be able to hold the arms and legs in place for postures (given that i am not going to pull them off apart and pop them in again). We then save the profile to be reused for other models. Rule of thumb for tolerance is half the size of an FDM printer's nozzle. The tension and shrinkage varies if the printing angle is positioned differently. So unless you are printing something super flat like devin montes where all the snapping is on the same plane, the clearance/tolerance wont work on other parts of the model. for example FDM prints i tried to level the peg and hv it printed horizontally becuz it gives it more strength therefore more resistant to break. And everytime i hv to adjust the design to different printers and materials, different colour of the same type and same brand of material would still hv huge variations. Resin prints are even more brittle therefore they breaks and wears out after a short while. However, cap designs like that, especially in closed rounded circular shapes, are the most difficult to make. The lid would either being too tight to be reopened again once u pop it on, or too loose to get it covered well, thus i found it hard to imagine how that design would work.

[@MyRadDesign]

I would suspect that the lid would be difficult to get on and off as the material rigidity of the top would prevent it from stretching around the snap ring. This assumes either PLA or ABS would be the material. If there were notches in the lower part that would allow the snap ring to deflect inwards when the lid was snapped on. No support material should be needed (or desired) for 45 degree edges. Another benefit of printing the lid separately from the base as any strings when the extruder slews from one part to the other would be avoided. This makes the outside of the parts look better.

[@basementdwellR]

This is my concern as well. The pill box Lars is printing looks to be giant and the amount of stretching the lid would need to go over the protruding bits would just make it unusable at that scale. If the protruding bit was much smaller it would have been fine. The infill matters as well as the perimeters. In this case you want to up the number of perimeters and lower the infill percentage. Notches in the lid would definitely help. Printing this like a 10 cm tall box it shouldn't take more than 3 hours max for such a simple object. You don't need finer than 0.2mm layer height unless you are doing fine art or screws. I've done plenty of functional parts where I have very little infill (5%) and there is no risk of breaking it. It all depends on the use case and type of design as well as print orientation.

[@belenhedderich3330]

Yes that would not work. Would be too rigid. Look for the snap fit case videos from adafruit great ones for that

[@cadcamstuff]

You are totally on point😁 realized the thing would be huge. Scaled it down for then realizing that there are no flex 💪 LOL learning all this practical 3D printing engineering

[@KenHackbarth]

@@cadcamstuff sorry Lars, you're never going to get the lid to snap over the ring. The ring is too wide and the lid is to rigid - both the material and the geometry (a cylinder)

[@cadcamstuff]

I did manage to get the lid on...by the help of a my vise...but I will never get it off again 😁

[@hardliferotaries2661]

Love your videos they help me a lot but I’m having a couple of problems. I made a part following your spark plug video that was similar to your spark plug but it wouldn’t allow me to sketch on a face plane to add holes. Then I made it all one piece and I could add holes but it would not allow me to select the X ternal face of the cylinder to add threads can anybody help me out thank you

[@cadcamstuff]

Try the trick of holding your left mouse button down for a few seconds over the area and the selection dialog will appear

[@hardliferotaries2661]

Thanks. I tried that but for some reason it won’t let me select that face of the tube to ass threads. What I had to do is make a new sketch on the face and extrude a circle the same dimensions then it let me add threads

[@wraduma]

Yep.. calibrating you’re 3D mouse will fix the drifting. Right click the 3Dconnexion icon in the system tray, calibrate, don’t touch the 3D mouse while it’s blinking... and there you have it... no more drifting.

[@ThomasHaberkorn]

Hi Lars! Is it possible in Fusion 360 to simulate and visualize the deformation of the lid while it is snapped onto the cylinder? Keep up the good work

[@cadcamstuff]

Not really the power of mechanical CAD like Fusion. You could do the calculations of the yield of the material strain, but if you are looking for a smooth animation, maybe look to something like Autodesk Maya

[@ThomasHaberkorn]

@@cadcamstuff thanks!

[@JakeMcIvor]

You should be able to do an Event Simulation study in the Simulation workspace with a prescribed translation to estimate the forces and deformation.

[@ThomasHaberkorn]

@@JakeMcIvor Hi, I have to look into that, sounds pretty cool.. Thanks

[@LeoDentalLabCORP]

Como me gustaría encontrar un canal como este pero en español que encele las cosas así de esta manera para los que estamos comenzando en este mundo de la impresión 3D y Fushion 360 muchas gracias por sus videos son demasiado bueno aunque me quedo a media por el tema de que no manejo él idioma y desgraciadamente la traducción no es muy fiable en fin trato de estudiar y entender lo que pueda. Muchas gracias que tenga un lindo día

[@rishavshaarma]

heys Lars .. can I request you to make a tutorial on designing a specific type of RC car that I found on internet & they're pretty neat. (I can email you a picture of tyres)

[@cadcamstuff]

That might be a bigger project than I can handle at the moment

[@lukky333]

how did you offset the offset in 3:30

[@branislav24]

you can't, you offset the initial line twice.

[@lukky333]

@@branislav24 yeh managed to figure it out, hvala!

[@Stealthmode72]

I would do15% infill, .2 layers, no need for supports.

[@herbertmoessmer5424]

probier mal deine model-modifikation in der schnittdarstellung - ist wesentlich einfacher. du siehst sofort das spiel im gewinde

[@Duraltia]

@05:15 Someone appears to be in dire need of recalibrating his *3DConnexion SpaceMouse* huh?

[@LukePettit3dArtist]

So did adam steal this from the Ruiz Brothers over on Adafruit or the other way around?

[@cadcamstuff]

Hopefully no stealing, just a big pot of inspiration from one another.

[@kevinm3751]

Seems to me this object applies stress where it is unnecessary. Personally I would use threads instead of this! Not to mention this is NOT the proper way in which a "snap ring" is used!

[@69elchupacabra69]

Can you clarify how a "snap ring" is supposed to be used?

[@Its_an_advocardo]

The thing shown in the video is a snap fit lid not a snap ring. Snap rings go are often used to hold components on a shaft or keep a component inside a hole. They are also called circlips. I'd check out pistons in engines and how the crank pins are held in place.

[@Blinkation]

Ain't no way this is gonna work

[@dennisdecoene]

I like most of your videos but this was really terrible. Sorry.

[@69elchupacabra69]

tf what you talking about it was perfect