Gameboy Color Repair Fix - Multiple Issues - When to replace the volume wheel?

#gameboy #consolerepair #gameboycolor #soldering #repair #fix
Hi there! This time we have a Gameboy Color PCB that has broken off anker traces and some audio issues that needed further inspection until I found solutions. Enjoy the repair! :)
Some of you asked, what tools I use so here you have a simple list, because I really don't use anything special:
- Solder Iron: The cheapest online with temperature regulation.
- Screwdriver: DIAOPROTECT 122 in 1
- Hot Tweezers: YIHUA 938D
- Heatgun: Rework Station 858D
- Fume Absorber: COMGROW Fume Laser Absorber
- Flux: AMTECH NC-559-ASM Flux
- Solder: Owootecc (Sn99,3 Cu0,7/0,6mm,50g)
- Microscope: YIZHAN 4K 48MP Elektron Digital Mikroskop
- Wuudi engraving tool set

[@fecocchi]

Great job my friend! love it

[@x-fix]

Thank you! :)

[@user-ne8dr6td1m]

I love your generous solder restration!! Mr X!!

[@x-fix]

Glad you like it! :)

[@danielteper4406]

dobra robota- jak zawsze!

[@x-fix]

Ty szpiegu jeden! :D

[@Deathmask666GER]

Schöne Reparatur :)

[@x-fix]

Danke ✌

[@mre5440]

Although there were only small errors, the repair was quite extensive. But once again you managed to save a board 🙂

[@x-fix]

Yeah, it did took a lot of time to get everything right. At lot of analyzing was going on in the background. :)

[@WardWC]

Good work. Subscribed. Can you please zoom the camera out a little more in future videos.

[@x-fix]

Sure! Sometimes in the middle of the work I dont notice that it might look weird to you guys. So thanks for letting me know!

[@aaronpape7270]

what is the gray paste you keep using?

[@x-fix]

Thats Solderpaste! :)

[@moonpig660]

how to know if its the volume wheel vs a bad capacitor? i have a gameboy that has little sound around max volume but doesnt sound choppy except when i have earpuds in, but not headphones, speaker pops when connected to a battery directly, but video displays so i wouldnt think its the capacitor for the volume since they all should be going bad iirc since same lifespan

[@x-fix]

Thats actually a very good question! On my end all I do is finding the solution my ilimination of the problems. The easiest is first to replace the speaker and see if this helps out in any way. Make also sure that the phone jack is clean and those two elements shown in the video are making a connection. If this Jack is somehow dirty or corroded you will end up having issues. The next step would be taking off the audio capacitor. Its the lower one on the left side near the battery springs. If you seperate it from the board and messure it with a multimeter and you get your 100uF then you know the cap is fine. You solder it back in and replace the sound wheel and check if the sound gets better. If so, then congratulations you found the issue and fixed it! If not then it could also be the audio chip that is left from the wheel. It has "AMP" letters on it. Check if all legs are making a solid connection or even reflow them with you iron. Again check if the sound got any better. If not, then you can replace the audio chip if you have a donor or can find it somewhere on Aliexpress. If the new AMP is replaced and you still have this issue then it might be the CPU.... so as you can see, there is a list of steps to find the issue. :)

[@moonpig660]

​@@x-fix can you use a hot air station to remove the capacitors? i cant seem to lift a leg off and repeat for the other to get any of the capacitors off, i added leaded solder and wicked the solder off and could not get it to lift at all like ive seen numerous ppl do. I took the speaker off and connected it to a battery and it popped which ppl said means its good, as for the jack i cleaned it with ipa but dont have white vinegar at the moment, the connection i believe i did before and it worked, i can hear a low sound when turning it on, and sounds fine though my gaming headset just not my earpuds. If its not good to use a hotair station and ill need to keep trying or rip them off with the twist method and replace with new ones, in the meantime how to check the audio chip and the wheel with a multimeter? I've only tested continuity with thei think 3rd and 4th pin that i see the trace go to the chip which they do.

[@x-fix]

If your struggeling that hard i would suggest to cut them off and do the rest with hot air. Dont use hot air while the hats are still there cause they can blow up and explode due to hot air. If possible you could think of getting 135 ceslius solder paste? This would lower the melting point and helps to desolder.

[@moonpig660]

i got frustrated and used hotair, to get it off, did it to another cap i found on a "donor" board that works thats 100uF and 16v issue is still the same. I cleaned the headphone jack with ipa and white vinegar, and cleaned the volume wheel with ipa and WD40. What do i need to check with the audio chip or anything else thats checkable before replacing just so i dont waste money on something that isnt the issue@@x-fix

[@x-fix]

​ @moonpig660 So lets analyze... You checked the speaker and your sure it is fine? Do you have a multimeter to check the Ohms? There should be a resistance of around 7,8 Ohms. If you have an other speaker by hand I would just replace it and see if it makes any other difference. (Just for making sure). If the capacitor is fine, please check also the traces between any audio lines. Is there anything scratched or ripped off? In my last video for example I also had an audio issue that made the signal impossible to reach the speaker. Once this issue was fixed the speaker gave a static sound, wich lead me to the broken audio amp chip. If you have a volume wheel replacement or donor by hand just replace it. This would be the cheapest solution and best test in my opinion. If this still doesnt work I can prepare a video with a summary of any solutions that come into my mind.

[@Its_Phobos]

I think you might have a better time with a lot of your soldering work if you didn’t have so much oxidation on the tip of your iron. Watching you have to push around little balls of molten solder is almost as painful as it must be for you to do it 😂

[@x-fix]

To be fair, I am fine with it. Otherwise I wouldnt use it nor even show it online. The only thing that gives me indeed head ache is the old factory solder that wont melt correctly anymore. My main work happens off camera so you cant see it yet, but even my new desolder station has problems to remove factory solder. It takes several attempts and a lot of leaded or lowmelt solder until it stops blobbing around. But sure, I should retin the tip soon again before I record something new. :)

[@jackipiegg]

Can tell you're really struggling using that soldering iron. Get a better one that takes jbc 115/210/245 tips.

[@x-fix]

Honestly, no I am not. I am fine with it. But I noticed that the old factory solder gives me sometimes big headache. Sometimes 400 Celsius is not enough and I have to add leaded or low melt one several times until its melting correctly.

[@jackipiegg]

@@x-fix Yea cheap irons are difficult to melt leaded solder. Even if it shows 400 on the screen, the tip of your iron is not 400 after touching the PCB. A cheat code among gameboy enthusiast are those mini hotplate. It makes it too easy. You could get that.

[@x-fix]

@@jackipiegg I have leaded solder and I also have solder paste. There is absolutely no problem with melting BUT .... when it comes to factory soldered components like on a PS4 controller or Gameboy Cardreader Pins, its a nightmare. Honestly, my iron is probably in a way a reason but since I also have other tools for desoldering I can confirm that its not getting any better. Even tho they are new, so there is no oxidation on the tips. I also retinned my iron today. ;)

[@jackipiegg]

@@x-fix Its not about how well you keep it clean. Its the type of iron. That type of iron are using 15+ year old tech, no PID feedback from the Cartridge Tip. So, when you touch your soldering point, the temperature decreases. T12 cartridge are OK but JBC irons are getting cheaper right now, you should get those.

[@x-fix]

I will think about it. I know that ceramic irons always have a lower temperature on the tip. Thats why I turn it on 350-400 Celsius and to be honest it works fine to me then. Maybe I will get something nice soon when the cyber weeks begin...