Pogačar’s Cross-Chaining, Easiest Unclipping System & Sealant On Your Valve | GCN Tech Clinic

[@cruachan1191]

I know some people don't like them on road bikes, but MTB pedals and cleats are pretty easy to get in and out of, the tension is easily adjustable and the added bonus is that the shoes are much easier to walk in and the cleats don't wear as quickly as they are recessed.

[@F1ll1nTh3Blanks]

I use MTB cleats on my road bike for this reason. I can walk in the cleats without wanting to remove my ankles.

[@philippannawitt3606]

Agree, only ride mtb pedals and ‘gravel’ shoes

[@TheRflynn]

All those plus you don’t need a friend to hold your arm when you want to cross a wet tile floor.

[@travisthurston5857]

I use Shimano mountain bike spds, I think 520s, on my road bike. I like the ability to set the tension so I can move around a little bit on the pedals.

[@tomnewham1269]

Same here. I’ve not looked into it but Shimano have a cleat system that is designed for beginners and I think it is based on MTB system.

[@Surestick88]

Regarding slipping seatposts, I've struggled with this in the past, chasing ever tighter clamping forces which only marginally slowed the rate of slip. The secret I found that has worked every time is, counterintuitively, lube. Lube *everything*. The seatpost, of course, and take off the seatpost collar, grease where it interfaces with the frame, and the quick release mechanism. After that I've never had an issue with a seatpost slipping with normal clamping force. Of course, if your seatpost is the wrong size for your frame there will be issues but aside from that, lube seems to be the answer.

[@feedbackzaloop]

About pedals: important not mix up float and retention hardness. One is about movenment before unclipping, other is force threshold. And in some or other systems one can have lots of float with plenty of force (which I would find the most annoying and least safe, because you have to twist the ankle a lot and still pull hard) or little wiggle with small force (also may be not advised as one would accidentally unclip very often and potentially crash)

[@matt_acton-varian]

To answer question 4 - slipping seat post - I am restoring a vintage steel bike and discovered that the clamp had been tightened to the point the bolt has bent and the tube is dented. It turns out the seatpost supplied (25.6mm) was too narrow so after smoothing out the tube a new clamp and a 26.0mm post worked a treat. I am well within torque spec with no slippage despite a liberal coating of calcium grease. Vintage seat posts for steel frames are available in 0.2mm increments from 25mm tp 27.2mm (which became the first standard size on carbon and alloy bikes). Measure the seat post diameter and size up if possible, it will be much safer.

[@feedbackzaloop]

Some bike shops even have a proper measuring tool

[@gcntech]

if in doubt, a bit of tin can has been known to help temporarily!

[@matt_acton-varian]

@@gcntech A trick I have seen used before, but as this was a long term project I didn't need to do this to get the bike rideable in a pinch.

[@MichaelGermain-mk2bc]

@matt_acton-varian a quick fix can be to flip the nut over as the threads get pulled in one direction over time and don't hold tightly anymore...flip the nut and tighten it down. It will hold like a rock just buy a new nut when you get a chance. The nuts are softer than the bolts and the threads pull eventually.

[@bigjohn2811]

Permatex aluminum anti-seize is an automotive lubricant that works well with steel to aluminum contacts in wet and salty environments. Many automotive companies throughout the world make this similar lubricant.

[@chrisbuttine6869]

Pog probably didn't want to risk dropping the chain by shifting to the small ring and then down the cassette at a crucial moment

[@Parish0050]

I put a bit of grease on the valve core, before putting it in for the first time. Fixes the problem for good.

[@johnmcdonough6732]

Re sealant and valves, I always store my bike with the valves at 12 o’clock . Never had a problem with sealant in the valves

[@kenmoum162]

@johnmcdonough6732 unless you're overfilling the tire, 6 o'clock should be better. The sealant drains out of the stem there. At 12 o'clock it can stay in the stem.

[@paulbeever9379]

For easy release of cleats, use beeswax spray on the cleats (pedals and shoes). It makes a massive difference. My SPD's got quite reluctant to release, and this fixed it perfectly.

[@paulgrimshaw8334]

Good hack. Thanks for this!

[@festerofest4374]

Or silicon spray. Clean and useful for many other lubricating tasks when you don't want an oily film left behind.

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

Hi GCN. It seems your advice is, literally, down to a science and most times elaborates into the important nuances. I think it's very good and you guys do a great job. Chain wear checkers, however, seems to be amiss! Adam at ZFC has shown us that many chain checkers are inaccurate rubbish. Awareness of this fact will benefit the cycling community. If you're going to check chain wear, use an accurate checker, otherwise you may as well not even check.

[@eddysobieralski8075]

Re valve clog: In one of his YT videos, Silca's Josh Poetner suggested coating both the valve core and the inner of the stem with Synergetic lube and when the bike is being stored, having the valve at 'twenty-five past' to allow the sealant to drain out of it.

[@nick_riviera]

Also putting the core in hot water helps to unclog the sealant

[@alexandercoryt]

I was going to mention this. I'm glad someone else has seen that video too.

[@twiztidpurpose]

I started to put a but of petroleum jelly on the bit of the valve that comes in contact with the sealant. Had less valve issues with this method.

[@optimusprimmv1]

Silca recommends using lube (Synergic or even better Synerg-E) to keep sealant from clogging valves/cores. They say the tungsten disulfide repels the sealant, and with Synerg-E the more viscous lubricant sticks better and lasts longer. Whenever I do sealant, I use a pipe cleaner to brush the inside of the valve tube with Snerg-E. I also keep a small container with a handful of valve cores submerged in Synerg-E to ensure that the internals of the core are coated so that any sealant that gets there won't gum it up as easily. I used to get clogs on my road bike every 2-3 weeks, now it's more like every 2-3 months. I'll typically just swap out the cores for fresh ones whenever I do my quarterly sealant top up. Gravel tires with their larger volume basically never clog for me now, and get a new valve core yearly. In all cases, re-lube the value tube with a pipe cleaner whenever you replenish sealant. As for valve cores, buy a 100 pack on Amazon for $20 and never worry about them again. At a few cents a pop, the time spent trying to unclog them just isn't worth it.

[@jimbob277777]

I can confirm dipping the core in synergetic does help..... for a while.

[@diederikwyffels6831]

correct... it doesn't work forever, but does a great job for a much longer period

[@davidide1525]

Enjoying the video :) Josh from Silca recommends removing the valve core and placing a small amount of Silca oil ( other brands may work ) to prevent the sealant from sticking. I have done this with various sealants and I know it works well, fyi . Keep the informative and fun videos coming .

[@bjm2762]

I've used a piece of emery cloth between seat post and tube can give you greater grip for tightening.

[@andyeunson270]

I place a few drops of Triflow on my valve cores. It helps keep sealant from sticking to the core.

[@christopheroliver148]

I run sew-ups, and I might try brushing some of that on next time I put Stan's in a tire.

[@D4D22]

Looks like Olli got the high chair 🪑

[@gcntech]

he swapped them, rumour has it

[@feedbackzaloop]

It's over Bernard, I have the high chair!

[@turboplopp]

Unclipping: I had knee injury and can't rotate my food with force ever since. Tried a lot, even with a fitter. Only remaining option is SPD SH56 cleats. With good shoes it works surprisingly well for me, wouldn't go back if I could.

[@RenAigu]

1:41 SPD or MTB style, two bolt cleat system. The Shimano cleats labelled as "with play" or "multi-directional release", I think part number SM-SH56. They can unclip in any direction. With proper tension on the pedal I have had zero "failure to unclip"-accidents in now years since I went clipless, i.e. when I in a panic don;t think about twisting my ankle to unclip, it has always released in time to get a foot on the ground. The right tension where you also don't accidentally unclip is easy to find as well I found. Don't let yourself be peer pressured into road cleats!

[@duettoq]

I posted a similar comment (didn't go through all the other comments before I saw yours). Your experience is encouraging.

[@AleksiJoensuu]

I use the Shimano SPD MTB pedals and cleats and I just always leave them as loose as they go. I've never had one come off when I didn't want to, so why set it any tighter? But I have no mobility issues and haven't tried other systems so I can't make any comparisons. I use the MTB system on the road because you can get the recessed cleat shoes that are easier to walk in.

[@brittwoodruff9369]

I’ve had the valve problem and ended up using it by using Filmore valves. The stopper from the air in at the end of the valve inside the wheel and not mid shaft in the valve core. When you push the plunger to inflate the tire it breaks the seal from sealant inside the wheel. The drawback to these is you do have to run valve caps because the head of the plunger and the inside of the cap are both threaded to pull and hold the valve closed tightly. Used these on both my road bike and mountain bikes with 100% user satisfaction.

[@MichaelGermain-mk2bc]

On tubeless valves the best way to avoid clogging is to remove the stem and apply a light coat of silicon oil to the inside of the valve stem with a pipe cleaner and soak your valve in silicon oil prior to install. Repeat every time you remove it.

[@edwardmitchell9048]

Re: bike pedal/cleat system (1:39), may I suggest toe clips (no straps)? Cheap, simple, lightweight, compatible with basic pedals, effective.

[@duettoq]

After hitting a tree root and going over the bike results were a broken hip due to foot not unclipping fast enough. Researching SPD components I came across Shimano's SH-56 cleats, advertised as "multi-directional" dis-engagement. Got some, haven't tried them yet, still rehabing. Just a thought.

[@christopheroliver148]

As a roadie recovering from recent hernia repair, I wish you a speedy and full recovery. This sedentary thing sucks!

[@andyhasse6719]

#GCN tech. I just had a bad crash on the road on a downhill when my front tire flatted instantly and had zero control. I’m now petrified to ride downhill. Should I run heavier tyres and sacrifice weight? I had lightweight tubes when it happened.

[@wuzihuzi]

Check out Reserve Wheels Fillmore valves. They seem pretty good for avoiding sealant clogging the valves because they don't use a traditional valve core.

[@jhoff80]

I've had clogging become a problem with Silca sealant even with my Fillmore valves (to the point where I needed to disassemble and clean the valves). That being said, what's worked for me is just making sure that the valves are at the 6 o'clock position when I am not using the bike, so that any sealant will drip out of the valve before it's got a chance to clog.

[@SebastianTominec]

Try MilKit Valves wich have a flap at the end of the valve so that no sealant can come to the valve core.

[@roninx12]

Shimano has some pedals made specifically for easy step out : Simano Click`R are called.

[@kenjiishikawa1029]

I rode HED JET9 wheels on my aero road bike for years. For flat rides where cross winds are not a factor, there is nothing more satisfying than flying along at 28+ mph. Once moving, you are MOVING. I will caveat this that I am lucky enough to have had a second road bike with more reasonable 45mm deep wheels for days where wind and terrain were more variable. Currently, I have one road bike with a 50mm wheelset and while, it is a little sluggish on the climbs compared to a sub-1300g wheelset, it is a great option from an all-around perspective. N+1 right?

[@skinthekat0530]

SRAM Red 22 mechanical supported cross-chaining 10 years ago. Now I ride SRAM 1x11 so the term is obsolete for me.

[@HeyWattsUpCycling]

cross chaining, really doesnt cost the watts people think it does. accelerated wear? yeah sure, also at the same minuscule amount. The numbers were talking with cross changing are less significant than the difference of you shaving your legs or not for your 25kph avg charity ride. that said, do I want those extra 3-5watts? hell yea. Do a video on Alex diet and training since hes still pro level fast. Also wanna see what Ollie did with his supplements/diet to go from joking on a bike to smoking on a bike.

[@johnlowkey359]

Biggest issue with cross chaining is eliminated on an electronic groupset. No rub on the front derailleur because of the auto trimming.

[@vo2maximus177]

#askgcntech Asking this question on behalf of others really (and I don't know whether you've covered this before) but two of my n+1 are disc brake bikes and I have three pairs of disc wheels I use across them. Due to manufacturing tolerances (mainly of the hubs) it can be quite an issue making sure no combination results in rotor rub. And it tends to be even more of an issue with Campag because the resting position of the pads is very close to the rotors. To save having to constantly reposition the calipers every wheel change, thin rotor shims are available (took me ages to find them when I first looked for some 18mths ago). I got myself two sets of 10 shims, one set 0.25mm thickness, the other a wafer-thin 0.15mm. They seem to cover all eventualities. Excuse me if I'm stating the bleeding obvious, but no one else I know seems aware of them?

[@bengt_axle]

Regarding the seatpost slipping: First check that the seat collar bolt is not loosening as you ride, because if it is, that can be the source of the problem. The aluminium threads may not be locking the bolt in. Or, alternatively, your torque is insufficient to hold the post firmly because the threads on the bolt or collar have too much friction. Apply some grease ONLY to the thread (and keep the shoulder of the bolt grease free). This will allow the collar to tighten better, and counter-intuitively keep the bolt tight, because more friction will be on the shoulder of the bolt. Ride and re-tighten the bolt after 20 minutes, check again and re-tighten again. After the third time, (2hrs + riding) the bolt should not be loosening. Locktite Blue will also provide some lubrication to the bolt, and lock it in, so the triple-tightening method would also work, since it takes 24h to set. No need to worry about slightly overtightening, since nothing will crack in a metal setup. It is important to check and re--tighten, as the steel may only be gradually conforming to the aluminum as you ride. Flipping the opening of the seat post collar so that it is opposite (e.g. in front) to the slit in the seat tube, can also help provide a more even clamping force on the seatpost.

[@fogrider4607]

#ASKGCNTECH. On some of my favorite gravel routes my bottom bracket and wheel hubs get submerged completely under water while crossing creeks. How much damage could this be doing to my BB and hubs? How immediate is this a concern? Should I disassemble then and refresh the grease immediately after the ride or is it OK to just pay attention for play in the bearings and sounds of bearing degradation? I just watched Alex's "Easy Bottom Bracket Refresh" video. A great review of how to do it on BBs.

[@joekawasaki]

Silca sealant works really well so special high volume valves are the way! I use the reserve fillmore valves & have had no issues! Also the main sealant can't be put through the valve like lesser sealants! It needs to be poured through the side of the tire then the top up liquid(no fiber) can be shot through the valve later.

[@frankd4984]

Reconditioning Cassettes: that was possible bevor Hyperglide, where You just could turn the sprockets and use them a second time. ;-)

[@gcntech]

Uniglide?

[@MrSJR39]

#askgcntech Hi guys, rims brakes can be pretty effective (and silent) on alloy rims if they are set up properly using quality components and well maintained. Why then don’t disc brakes use pads made from the same material as rim brakes? Surely this would avoid the horrible noises that disc brakes make when it’s wet?

[@janwillemkuilenburg7561]

Concerning the slipping seatpost, you can make an ultra thin shim of an alu soda can. Cut it with a scissors. Works like a dream.

[@bdkraem]

I’ve also heard the big reason for not cross chaining is it wears out your chain faster, which of course a worn chain is bad for your components. Not something I think Pogacar needs to worry about.

[@christopheroliver148]

How cross is cross chaining? My vintage steeds have Campag 10 with a 53&39 in front and a 23-11 in back, and I sometimes use the 53/21 briefly rather than shift to the 39. I have never used the 23 with the large ring or with 11 or 12 with the 39.

[@steinharaldstegen4553]

There is a lot of talk about stretching of the chain. I find that sometime the sideways flex in the chain gets to big, and makes the gearing sloppy, long before it reaches the length limit. Specially in periods with rain and dirty roads.

[@dnadrchal]

Think I saw on Silca's KZbin page that you can use a pipe cleaner and add some of their Synergetic lube to it. Push that through the valve to add a protective layer to keep the sealant from clogging inside the valve.

[@robbchastain3036]

Tadej is just riding like we did back in the day. Big dogs ride in the big ring, it is a style thing. 😀

[@stanschmenge1965]

Very true. He also doesn’t fret the extra wear and tear on his drivetrain for some reason.

[@christopheroliver148]

On the other hand, back in the day, cross chain was 52/21. Tadej has a somewhat kinder combo I think.

[@richiejames928]

he’s listening to his legs and absolutely nothing else.. if his legs feel good pushing whatever gear he’s in at any given time.. I promise you he doesn’t care if he’s cross chained or not.

[@robbchastain3036]

@@richiejames928 Yes, I agree, he is listening to his legs with nary a care about cross-chaining. And let's see pros have a common computer with safety messages and maybe some basics, but no watts or anything that dictates the dance between legs and gears.

[@johnmcdonough6732]

Thanks Ken

[@TeddyYoung26]

You can file down the top of the threaded rod, unscrew the top nut, and disassemble the valve core completely for sealant removal. The top of the threaded rod is rounded to retain the nut. You can redo this after cleaning/reassembly with gentle hammering to deform the top thread while holding the valve core in a vise with soft jaws. The valve core's soft seals do degrade eventually, so I'd still recommend buying a bag of spare cores to split with a few friends. In a pinch, most bike shops will just give you a core for free. When checking tire pressure, I make sure the valve isn't near the lowest point(rushing air will suck up a bit of the sealant puddle), let some air out to allow any sealant in the stem/core to blow out, check pressure and inflate with my beloved Fumpa that hopefully appreciates my efforts to avoid getting sealant where it shouldn't be. Slightly related: I highly recommend getting a syringe to not only add sealant, but to suck out sealant and check how much is in there! I got the "BriskMore" brand on Amazon for $20, and the skinny steel tube fits through the valves on my bikes. Hope this helps!

[@MechaNick767]

#askgcntech Hey Techies. I find myself rolling my wrists inwards while riding on the hoods. Would a narrower bar be beneficial for me or is it about posture and fitness? Thank you for the great show.

[@chrisbuttine6869]

For clogged valve cores I just replace them rather than try to clean them. For the valve stem I use an Allen key to ream it out if clogged though the valve core is usually the problem.

[@twiztidpurpose]

I started to dip the internal part of the valve in petroleum jelly to keep the sealant from clogging the valve. Had less clogged valves.

[@overcookit1433]

The problem with the slipping seatpost sounds like the seatpost is to small. My Giant Peloton Superlite (bought in 1993) was originally equipped with a 27.0mm seaatpost, which turned out to be to narrow, as the lugg thatconnects the top tube, the seat tube and the chainstays was not finishes properly. A local dealer could ream the lugg , so the originally intended 27.2mm seatpost could be inserted. travisthurston5857 can also try to make a "spcer" of an empty cola light or whatever lemonade (NOT Coca Cola, as they are filled in steel tin cans, the contained phosphoric acid is to aggressive for alloy); in this case the worst that may happen that the "spacer" is corroded, not the seatpost. Concerning the cross chaining: on bikes with only one chainring it is ok, but with two chainrings it is an issue?! Riding big/big may create a kind of momentum, on either short and steep or long and less steep climbs I find it easier to ride big/big than small/small. When I use big/big on short and steep climbs I can go faster downhill than with having used the small ring. Concerning the deep section wheels (60-80mm), it depends on the kind of wind. Zhis year it seems to be extremely gusty, which then is indeed a problem. If the wind is constantly blowing, it is more predictable and then it is easier to ride deeper wheels. Watch the wheather forecast carefully, if rain and/or thunder is predicted, you have to expect gusty winds.

[@brannmacfinnchad9056]

#askgcntech Can you please do a short feature on the best and safest way to remove and install your pedals? I have PM pedals, so find myself swapping them regularly, and seem to always end up with an injury from it. Its getting annoying.

[@belowthehill]

Alex, how is your DIY rocker platform holding up after a year?

[@GCNalex]

I would love to be able to tell you however it was a short lived thing for me. It was fun, but not quite the real deal

[@thomasnutter]

#askgcntech I will be looking at buying a new road bike in the future and the sensible option would be an endurance model, Canyon Endurace is at the top of my list, the problem is I much prefer the look of fast low road race bikes over the upright endurance models, my question is, is it ok to buy a road race bike (aeroad) and just raise the bars using stem spacers to add comfort, or is this frowned upon. Love the show and keep up the good work.

[@yonglingng5640]

That's usually not a problem if you don't mind about the aesthetics (some riders want absolutely no spacers on theirs). All new bikes have their stems placed at the highest permissible height so that you can gauge if you can ride at that height. I once did a basic bike fit for a customer on a Tarmac SL6 and he had to have the original +/-6° stem flipped to be comfortable.

[@andrewlabat9963]

I've never had a problem seating my tubeless. It's not hard to clean and only takes a little time. Once clean, it all seats as it should, and I only use Silca Ultimate. Once a month, I remove and clean my valve cores. Simple and takes a few minutes.

[@wcubbin]

Depends what the questioner means by recondition cassette. If teeth are worn then no, but if teeth are OK but it is gummed up with greasy dirt then removing it and giving a good going over with a toothbrush and degreaser is time well spent.

[@fartman10284]

Crank Brothers pedals are easy to get in and out of and have a lot less moving parts... but... there is a downside.... brass cleats are soft, so they require regular replacement. Been using the Candy pedals from my mountain bike. For rim tape.... try Stan's Notubes rim tape, and they always recommend 2 layers.

[@hmar9599]

Time pedals are quite easy to unclip from, and are also adjustable.

[@yonglingng5640]

Many pedals have adjustable tension, not just Time.

[@cb6866]

Thanks Alex and Dr O and crew....dude , you look lean !!

[@shiggywiggywoo9749]

Thanks for the response - opted for the Speedplays.

[@MrRundervinkje]

Hello GCN tech, I own a Giant TCR model from 2021. The hex bolts on the bike are made out of gum and even using my torque wrench, I can easily turn them numb. I can't be bothered to unscrew each single bolt, find the size, search all over the internet to find it in black, wait for it to arrive (not use the bike) and then reinstall. Are there kits, bundles, websites out there to help you find all used bolts on your bike and can would you advise exchanging all hex bolts for torx bolts?

[@TheAttyjace]

#askgcnrech my roadbike is correctly sized for me but looking at it, it does not show a lot of seatpost like what i see on the roadbikes on the internet, how come?

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

What advice are these guys dishing out? Best Known Methods, or BKMs as we working nerds say. Solid advice, crack on guys.

[@litespud]

I run three chains and one cassette, rotating the (waxed) chain every 300-350 miles. I run the system until all three and the cassette are worn. My current set is at ~11,000 miles, but think they’re good for longer. Then I’ll replace the whole set. I don’t check chain wear, any more than I constantly check wear on my car tires. I know they’re wearing - I don’t need to monitor the process

[@Patch1815]

The other reason Pog can cross chain is that he doesn’t have to make his chain last beyond that day

[@4486542655]

What are the specifications for chain replacement? I see 0.5% wear quoted a lot but can't find any reference from Shimano or SRAM about what they recommend. #askgcntech

[@desmoMarco91]

Just change your chain when the tool says its worn, every bike shop has one (around 5-7000 km)

[@HeyWattsUpCycling]

I have 15k+ miles on a DA12 chain using ONLY wd40, has grown 3mm total. which is about .25% or a quarter of 1%. or still at the "halfway" point in its life.

[@musicman5075]

Easy clipless pedals. If you really have a problem with leg "foot twisting" strength consider the Bythlon pedal system. I have nerve damage and drop foot and wear a splint on my left leg. When I started riding I went for these. They are incredibly easy to get out of (just lift your foot out). I used them for around 9 months. When I started group riding I found them a little tricky to get the shoe engaged. You cant just kick you foot forwards into them like and spd pedal. When we all set off from a junction together I might be faffing around trying to get cleat engaged for a bit. Fine when on my own but bit irritating in a group. After a while I was doing more Audax so wanted recessed cleats so I could walk better into shops etc. so switched to spd. At first I used pedals with spd one side and flat the other so when I was tired or feeling nervous (eg in town) I would clip in on the right and use the flat on the left. I also adjusted the pedals for the easiest possible release at first. Now after about 4 years cycling I am ok with two sided spd pedals (still fairly slack on the left) as I think my brain has developed an unclipping action based more on the hip abductor muscles. Another downside is that every cyclist who notices them and definitely every bike shop will say "What the f are those" But it can be a conversation opener.

[@ravennexusmh]

cross chaining not an issue. i've recently got rid of all my curly bars, my trek road bike on the trainer is no on mtb bars with a mix of mtb 11-36 deore 10 speed on the back and a road 34/50 ultegra mech with deore shifters on the front works great even cross chained. Cassette yes change that chain often, the sram nx eagle 11-50 12 speed on my commuter bike (yes thats back on mtb bars also) has lasted about 1200 miles so far according to strava (and i bought it used but examinded the photos on ebay to check wear first) , it shows no sign of tooth wear as it's on its 3rd chain now. i think part of it's longevity is i also run a 46t oval chainring on it when commuting, and this keeps the cassette out of the small bottom cogs except of the odd moments i'm doing 30mph+ so the load is distributed over more teeth

[@danielsotelo3942]

To the person asking about pedal release... No matter what pedal you chose make sure you lube the external release mechanism(s) with FINISH-LINE spray Pedal Lube to keep them releasing easy and working like new... Get it on line it comes in a small white spray bottle and it goes on like water, and dries like water and leaves behind a dry hazy coating of pure Teflon.

[@christopheroliver148]

In the past, I used Finish Line Krytech for the same purpose to good effect.

[@ballardedwards3804]

Question n answer: I watched the downhill comparison of speeds reached n their differences. No shock the pro participant was fastest. I noticed how he used his front brake primarily. Have I been missing something? I’ve been riding for years but always use the rear brake on downhills. Am I braking incorrectly? Or is your left brake lever for the rear wheel? Another question: are some color kits faster than others.

[@yonglingng5640]

Different riders have different brake setups. Some prefer the front brake to be used with the left hand, others prefer them to replicate a motorcycle's.

[@PepeDalinShow]

I feel like it's easier to pedal on cross chain (big ring) on a climb but I'm not doing it because I don't want to prematurely wear my drivetrain. Tadej is getting all his equipment for free, I'm not. lol

[@Iandur]

#askgcntech What do people use to measure their speed? Do people still use the bluetooth/ant+ device that you strap on your freehub or is that old tech now and people more so rely on gps data from their headunits?

[@blubaughmr]

Most headunits use the wheel sensor for speed and distance, and use the GPS signal to calibrate it for wheel size, when there is a clear GPS signal. GPS is pretty inaccurate when riding under trees, in urban environments with tall buildings, and mountain canyons which interfere with the GPS signal.

[@sambennett7164]

Question: whats the best flavour oxo cube to use when making a risotto?

[@gcntech]

Now we are talking!

[@christopheroliver148]

No no no a million times no. You need to make your own stock. Anything less is living in sin!

[@itsNaack]

#askgcntech If I am going from an oil based lubed chain to a waxed chain, do I need to fully disassemble my drivetrain and give it an over-the-top clean to get rid of every molecule of grease or will just a simple degrease/clean be enough?

[@OriginalTrev]

The greasy build-up on your chainrings and cassette acts like a grinding paste for the chain rollers to wear into the teeth, so yes, you should give those components an over-the-top degreasing... if you're going to start using a waxed chain then it's always better to start with a new chain and strip it down to bare metal which allows the wax into the rollers and pins and form a better bond with the clean steel.

[@itsNaack]

@@OriginalTrev Thanks for the response! I would definitely be using a fresh chain with the and doing the whole wax chain procedure that GCN has made vidoes about, I'm just more curious about the front and back cassette!

[@TheAttyjace]

Tadej can cross chain because he can get replacement gear easily

[@christopheroliver148]

Agree. When a new chain for each stage*bikes is chump change in the budget, who cares about drivetrain wear. I, on other other hand, am trying to get as much life out of my old Campag 10 stuff with wax and as little time in the 53/21 as I can manage. I have never shifted to 53/23.

[@JamesBoz]

#askgcntech Hi all. For purely aesthetic reasons, I am wondering how big a job and how practical it would be to convert my 2020 Pinarello Prince FX Disc to internal cabling? I have PRO Vibe handlebars so it seems fairly straight forward to my non mechanical mind. On a side note, I am a heavy sweater and live in a tropical climate so find myself having to service the headset a couple of times a year -don't want to make this harder than it needs to be... Thanks in advance 👍

[@yonglingng5640]

I'll just stop you right there: It's impractical, because it's impossible. Add the fact that you service your headset more than once annually is all the more reason to never think about headset internal routing. You'll only take less than an hour to service your headset in its current form.

[@chrisdavidson911]

Clogging valves; are you inflating/checking with the valve at the top, so that it's away from the puddle? Never used it with a bicycle, but have used it with plant & agriculture equipment, and it's something you have to do.

[@H457ur]

On the subject of cassette wear, I’ve worn out exactly one over the course of 45+ years of riding and that was due to a badly worn out chain (lost my S-Works chain set and a Dura Ace cassette -ouch-that’s a mistake you make only once). Granted that’s not on a single cassette, but as you say, if you replace your chain *before* it wears out, your cassette is unlikely to ever wear out unless it’s made out of something fragile like aluminum or brittle like some titanium cassettes.

[@robbchastain3036]

Imagine the post-show meeting about this. "Roland, why did you try to answer that question about aero wheels? You know I know everything about aero." 😀

[@gcntech]

Roland 🤣

[@r.davies2702]

With regards to Pogacar cross chaining - he doesn't care, he doesn't pay for his own chains and it'll be replaced soon enough anyway.

[@jankobenger9128]

I wouldn't agree that cassettes last ages. For me, cassettes had a stable wear rate even if took care of my chain regularly. Did you ever do an episode on cassette wear? In my experience, once you put a new chain on a worn chassette you get a very violent chain-skipping making your bike unrideable in training conditions. So, for novice cyclist, my advice would be: don't change your cassette until this very obvious malfunction with a new chain appears. Luckily, a cassette's life can be extended by slightly angle-grinding each tooth. This fix saved me a lot of €

[@ancientrouleur]

Using Silca sealant you need to soak the presta valve and coat the inside of the stem with Silca Synerg-e lube. It's technically e-bike lube but it prevents the sealant from clogging the valve and sticking to the inside of the stem. Doing this has stopped all my inflation woes with Silca sealant.

[@danielcapson9842]

Look Pedals allow you to choose clip in tension as well...

[@feedbackzaloop]

@Freddy with his chains: making a "tuned set" is one of the worst things that can happen to the chain (and gears and many other transmission components): nothing is made perfect, so that imperfection has a specific effect and when applied over and over and over it accumulates and leads to great effect some specific place when other places remain unaffected and still fine. So then you better let that imperfection mix up with other imperfections and distribute among components as evenly as possible. So more chains rotated more often between more cogs the better and cogs with prime numbers for teeth (or at least multiples of only one number) also preferred. BTW this is why to achieve a perfectly flat surface you have to lap it against two others (see Whitworth three plates method)

[@thebestsong3865]

Can you please Try giant scr1 entry level road bike I Hobe you see that 😅

[@jesseschenendorf2896]

Silca suggests putting a small amount of their synergetic lube on the inside of the valve and then coat the core itself with a bit of it to prevent clogging. The better solution is reserve filmore valves.

[@AlistairSproul]

The thread of the screw point between my left crank and my chainring crank has worn out meaning that it falls of every 30-40kms. The cranks are really nice and i dont really want to replace them is there a way of stopping it from unscrewing? Could i glue it if i knew i could break the glue seal when i need to remove the cranks? Thanks in advance. #askgcntech

[@yonglingng5640]

What crankset is this?

[@AlistairSproul]

I don't know but I think it's the same connection system as SRAM

[@yonglingng5640]

@@AlistairSproul Is the crankset absolutely devoid of any branding? If it really is a self-extracting crankset interface, a threaded insert repair is the way to go if it's possible, along with a new bolt. Since you said the threads are worn out, using "glue" is only a patch job. Threaded fastener torque is what holds the crankset together. For this to work as intended, the threads need to be restored one way or another. You have to tackle the source fully in order to properly solve the problem.

[@Andy_ATB]

Why are people asking what the pros use? It's irrelevant to average people, do what you want.....

[@adambrickley1119]

Given the trend for aero front ends and lightweight rears on the latest frames i cant help thinking 80 in the frint and 30 on the back😮

[@MisterCOM]

If your valve clogs you should try fillmore valves

[@endcensorship874]

"Guys, guys, guys!! You absolutely do not want to shift off the Big Ring when you're attacking on a Big Climb in The Tour. Trust me here." - Andy Schleck

[@vozzen]

1:47 weren’t they asking for a specific brand you would suggest? Are you researching these questions before answering because some of these answers are just ”do some research and you will find out”

[@tornagawn]

Yeah, what’s the loss in Watts for cross chaining??

[@christianwirth6965]

#askgcntech I'm about to get a TT Bike but I want to stick to 2x. 2 questions: Is it possible to configure it such that I actually shift the front derailleur manually instead of using di2 synchro shift? Second: Is a 58/42 chainring combo fine, or is the gap too big? I have seen Campenaerts has such a setup but I don't have pro mechanics at my disposal on every race Thanks!

[@feedbackzaloop]

- di2 synchro shift can be turned off and on, also is not present in mechanical setups 😉 - You absolutely do not need pro mechanics to swap the gearing for you. And especially to calculate it. Use gear calculators (plenty different online or make your own excel sheet) to check all combinations and cadence variation between them.

[@christianwirth6965]

@@feedbackzaloop Synchro Shift ca be turned off, yes, but the bar end shifters on TT bikes with DI2 only have 1 button each. So you use one to shift up the RD and one to shift down. There is no button for shifting the FD, which is where Full Sychro Shift comes in. I was wondering whether it is possible to install Satellite Shifters to be able to shift the FD maually. Swapping the gearing is easy, yes. I was just wondering whether the gap between a 58t and a 42t is too large for it to be an easy thing to live with. Will the chain drop constantly on me, will I have to have the Derailleur constantly set up perfectly to not run into issues, etc.

[@feedbackzaloop]

@@christianwirth6965 if I remember correct, TT extension shifters are satellite shifters for those in the basebar that have full functionality. So the tradeoff is would you rather have FD shifted unpredicted or have full control but compromise your position from time to time. Second, 58-42 is 16 teeth difference just like 50-34, so no greater risk of dropping the chain. But in relative numbers 16/50 is greater than 16/58 so cadence change is smaller and this setup is easier (considering you have power to pedal through 58/11 on flat or 42/30 uphill)

[@mommamooney]

I switched to mountain bike cleats after wiping out after not being able to unclip

[@Elinzar]

Never say no to re-conditioning if it's possible to do so Maybe the rest of the cassette would wear off at different rates yes but if he have to change some gears out it means that those gears are already wearing out more than usual due to always using them or whatever, so if the other gears are fine I don't see why it is a no no to re-condition the cassette Its not only a waste of money but also wasteful not to do it if you can find parts

[@MggW]

#askgcntech The question we all want to know is: who sets the allotted time? Is it the UCI because I thought that The UCI Has No Jurisdiction Here. What happens if the allotted time is exceeded?

[@cmarnold78]

Yeah, Silca is good, but it really bungs up the valve cores and can be totally frustrating. Cheap replacements make the problem even worse. Think there are some super expensive valve cores that prevent this but they are like $50

[@xuchenglin6256]

Nah, you guys are wrong again. The easiest unclipping system is the Shimano SPD system with the SH-56 multi-directional cleats. The multi-directional means in an emergency like situation you can just pull that thing directly off, it feels just like a very strong magnetic connection. While during normal situations instead of only twist on the horizontal plane to disengage, you can twist+pull up to the side at the same time to disengage which is very natural. I find them very reliable and this feature saves me a lot of times because no matter what ride.I do there's always about at least 40km in the city with heavy traffic, traffic lights, junctions... The only downside is when you doing max effort with strong pulling up motion (not intentionally, just recovery to the top) because the natural twist movement at the ankle you might accidentally disengage that thing and that usually means a sudden jolt depends on your skill and luck you may or may not crash. I experience that few times when I up sprint a highway under pass on my way home. Luckily I'm OK. But for this situation you can use the SH-51 which just behaves like a "normal" cleat.

[@tonyg3091]

Short answers: 1. Pog is Pog. He can do whatever he damn pleases. You are not Pog so you shouldn't. And also he gets his bikes for free. You don't. 2. Yes, on normal rides on 80 mm you look like a complete schmuck. Stay on 50s. 3. Use paste, this is what it is made for. 4. You can't. Buy a new one. 5. The beauty of riding tubeless tires. Remove cores, clean them, put them back and you are good. etc. Glad to have been of service to the community. Oh by the way, the easiest system to get in and out is Magped but as I do not like them very much I strongly recommend SPD with the M type cleats-the SH56. Perfect.

[@travelinalaskan]

Wax for life!

[@larrylem3582]

Answering questions in the allotted time... What is your allocation? Do you have to pay KZbin based on video duration? If there's really no allotment, you could be more honest and say "if we feel like it".

[@anthonyschroeder521]

The very fact that these sealant discussions are real problems, after only 2 weeks or 6 months respectively, is exactly why recommending tubeless to most people is an awful idea.

[@mjsylver]

I love by Reynolds AR41,s

[@awakenedbahamut2574]

Big ring feels better as well

[@rcdogmanduh4440]

Love tubeless I just won't ride behind myself!