Waxed Chain Problems & Tyres With No Sealant?! | GCN Tech Clinic

[@gcntech]

Drop your tech questions in the comments using #askgcntech 👇

[@thenobleist9262]

#askgcntech am I more or less aero with a cap on under my helmet? What about with the brim up vs. down?

[@gcntech]

@thenobleist9262 now we're talking!

[@TheTDRaF]

What is the best full-length mudguard for a road bike with disc brakes? For example, the Scott Addict RC15

[@ross__mcl]

trying to move my front derailleur in to the big ring is extremely stiff, going back into the small is fine. the actual mechanism can be moved with my fingers, so its not stuck. I've also made sure its not the limit screw. no obvious restrictions is the cable routing. is there something im missing? #askgcntech

[@MCBritta]

Concerning tubeless tyres: I bought a used Giant Contend AR1 roughly half a year ago. It's sold by Giant as "tubeless ready" which means it has tubeless tyres mounted but the retailer/buyer has to put in the sealant... So I recently had a puncture and as it turns out the previous owner never bothered to put in the sealant (shame on me for not checking/refreshing it). So effectively the bike has been ridden on tubeless tyres without sealant for one and a half years 😀

[@benoitbvg2888]

Congrats to the retailer for knowing you wouldn't need it and kept you 150ish grams lighter.

[@cantsprintwontsprint]

connex wipperman quick links are the dogs danglies if you are removing the chain on a frequent basis, no tools required

[@gcntech]

We'll have to check them out! How often have you been using them? 👀

[@feedbackzaloop]

do they fit the flattop Sram chains though?

[@ysarn]

Agreed, as I have said on another thread Connex Wipperman are brilliant, as they are completely reusable with no limits, as they do not snap into place when closing, they just slide open and closed. As I have a waxed chain, I remove my chain from my bike every time I clean my bike so the chain does not get any detergent on it. I have had no problems with the Connex link over thousands of miles, it is so much better than other quick links.

[@richardggeorge]

​@@ysarn any tips for a cheap source of these links?

[@ysarn]

Unfortunately no cheap Connex links around. Merlin have 10 speed for £8, 11 speed for £19, but it is worth the investment if you take your chain off the bike often, say for waxing. I don't know if a 12 speed version is available.

[@ryuujinusa]

KMC reusable links are the bomb. Been using them for years. And they’re baller gold in colour!

[@mikeeckhaus]

You can put clear protection film over the signature to protect it. Same as some people do to protect the whole frame. This is really popular on mountain bikes, but also used on some road bikes.

[@zerofrictioncycling992]

With the immersive wax + wax chain rust - what chain model was it? there have been reports over time re shimano m8100 12spd outer plates being VERY prone to oxidation, it is something that has come up with silca ss drip lube / waxing - be interested to know if it is that chain model this time. In general post wet ride wiping chain and adding wax lube should protect from rust or oxidation perfectly well, so no need to go back to wet lube which will quickly become very abrasive. Extra hints and tips are; a) Wipe chain with microfiber cloth to remove bulk water. Then spray some isopropyl alcohol onto dry microfiber cloth and wipe chain. IPA is brilliant at removing surface moisture, and also helps remove some surface minerals that may be in the water (especially if salted roads) which may act as a rust catalyst. b) consider ufo drip vs ss drip if getting oxidation even after applying ss drip. UFO drip does go on a bit thicker pretty easily. i havent had any reports of oxidation / rusting with UFO drip as the wax drip being used in between waxes even on chains that seem prone to try to oxidise as fast as possible (like the m8100).

[@GCNuser123]

Cheers Adam!

[@beckham894]

my chain is normal KMC X11, I guess I didn't dry the chain properly after a particular wet ride (typical English weather!). Now I have learnt my lesson and thanks GCN for producing another useful rust removal video!

[@Jack42Frost]

Thanks for the help concerning the signed bicycle. I am a bit of an hooligan and ride the bike. The main problem with it is that it has 53/42 rings. I am considering using some kind of plastic film over the signature. Thanks for the help from gcn and the comments

[@PoulHansenDK]

For the signature you could try an artists shop. There are specific clear lacquers meant for sealing drawings etc. without dissolving the drawing itself.

[@gcntech]

Great tip! 👌 Thinking out side the box ... that's what we like to see!

[@JB-sb1qg]

Paint protection film would be an easier alternative. And you can do it yourself.

[@PoulHansenDK]

@@JB-sb1qg Except it might remove the signature if you ever have to replace it.

[@DavidFritzIII]

I use my waxed chain all year round, in my commutes etc... the keybis a good microfiber rag to dry off the chain after riding.

[@Kimberlietriracer25]

@askgcntech Goodness, I forgot I asked that question. My mechanic advised me to leave the Zipp wheels which saved me $1400 to spend on other equipment like a hydration system and race tires. It also went toward a new to me draft legal bike which needed carbon wheels. Ive now got them both at 7.5 and 7.8kg before hydration system filling. Thanks for answering it, though. I was surprised to hear my name.

[@JBR.1974]

When I first got my GP5Ks on my Winspace rims I got very excited and forgot to put in sealant. I rode 40 miles and had full pressure on my return. Basis the above, I think it can be done but I wouldn’t advise it full time

[@rickcski8082]

I use a center punch to flatten the tabs of my Shimano 12S quick links to allow reuse. I usually can get 4-5 removals-installs from each until they will no longer snap into place.

[@tattooedyogi]

10:10 apply some clear PPF over it. cut a piece out and stick it overtop. done and done!

[@JFomo]

Just replaced my sram flat top chain after 18000km (not recommended to be used that long) and the original quick link was never replaced. I removed that chain so many times for cleaning and waxing. I do wish I had replaced that chain mayby 3000km earlier 😅

[@kimstrickland65]

I refinished a couple of bikes recently and wanted to protect the decals, clear glossy acrylic worked with the paint I used and it did not irritate the decals. I suspect this might work for the signature, probably done with a felt-tip Sharpie or something similar. The basic idea is to use a very light coat the first time around so the solvent dries before it can interact strongly with what is below it. Another couple of regular thickness coats would go on after that to actually protect things. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation on the timing between coats.

[@glennanderson2790]

I have the new Hutchinson Challenger and it does not need sealant and It holds air better than any other tubeless tire I’ve used with sealant.

[@a1white]

I have the older tube type. Excellent tyres for the price.

[@GHinWI]

Regarding the rusty waxed chain-the old-school method was we mixed paraffin with motor oil…roughly 30% motor oil. The oil dissolves in the paraffin, makes it less brittle and coat the chain better, so it’s more water resistant. The trick is getting the oil percent right-just enough to give water resistance, but not so much to attract dirt.

[@Jari1973]

I use the same tip, but instead of engine oil, I use a liquid paraffin oil 👍

[@KarlosEPM]

Also, hardness/brittleness of wax depends on temperature. This complicated matters in regions which have seasons/varying weather throughout the year. But I agree, adding an oil helps. You Still need to strip your drivetrain of oil before waxing though, counter intuitively perhaps.

[@GHinWI]

@@Jari1973 : yeah, I’ve seen paraffin oil recommended (I think it’s what we call kerosene in the US). Maybe I’ll try sometime, but I’m not sure how it’s different/better than motor oil. Motor oil also has additives for wear and corrosion.

[@Jari1973]

@@GHinWI Half if otherwise.. I, on the other hand, am going to try high-quality motor oil 👍 But the wax definitely needs PTFE powder in it.. which you can get really cheap in China.. 👍 But my test next summer will be.. Tungsten Carbide Powder 🤔 Which is probably very toxic 😂

[@GHinWI]

@@Jari1973 : I wouldn’t use WC powder-that is very hard and abrasive. Maybe you mean WS2? That would definitely work.

[@romanluu]

There is also a Mavic wheel that is claimed to work tubeless without sealant. I plan to upgrade my bike with a combination of said wheels paired with the Hutchinson tyres that you guys mentioned to see whether I can go tubeless without a sealant (or perhaps you can try and make a video out of it so we, regular consumers, can save some money 😁).

[@rasyidizulkifli2285]

Yeah, mavic has UST which is rim and tyre system not following ETRTO, made to be run tubeless, but the tyres are quite heavy, and rim/tyre compatibility is abit messy

[@thomasb.4219]

there are tyre/rim combinations that work without sealant. Maxxis tyres on Mavic (or Campa) wheels for example (in my case).

[@andyarchitect]

Most Giant bikes come from the factory with the tubeless valves already installed. We just inflate them without sealant if its a display bike on the shop floor and only add sealant once a customer buys the bike (so that its not sitting for potentially ages). These usually hold their air for a month or so until they go squishy. So in theory you could run your tires without sealant... just that you will have to top them up with air more often than normal.

[@benjaminstevens4468]

I’ve had no problems working on chains by pushing the pins in and out of the holes in the plates, although it is much easier and more convenient using quick links. Cover the signature with clear adhesive vinyl.

[@ytyehyeh]

I thought there are tubeless and tubeless ready tires where the former have a butyl layer bonded to the casing to hold air (and can be used with or without sealant), while the latter require a coating by added liquid sealant to hold air.

[@MCBritta]

Some brands sell their bikes as "tubeless ready" without sealant because there's a possibility that the bikes sit a shelf for quite some time, so the sealant would dry out. But usually there's fresh sealant etc. included when buying on of those bikes.

[@ytyehyeh]

@@MCBritta That makes sense as far as complete bicycle models go, though I thought bikes sold tubeless-ready is mostly referring to the rims and rim tape, and commonly have tubes pre-installed at the factory regardless of bundled tire type, with conversion to tubeless being an optional step at the point of sale/delivery and potentially requiring new tires and tubeless valves. But with respect to tires specifically, I recall a distinct change from tire manufacturers designating a tire model as tubeless (with bonded butyl layer) and then later adding tubeless-ready models that were much, much lighter (by about the weight of a butyl innertube :-), but required either sufficient sealant or an innertube to hold air successfully. That also makes sense as the tubeless[-ready] world developed where running with sealant became the default method, so the butyl layer and the extra weight it put on the product listings disadvantaged it in the high-end/racing tire market, so they are less common there these days. The original/true tubeless (vs tubeless-ready) tires could still be preferred in the reliability/durability market where belt and suspenders are more accepted, I don't know, I'm still running latex and butyl tubes on rim brakes 😲.

[@MCBritta]

@@ytyehyeh yea that’s what i thought aswell (rim tapes etc. but tubes pre-installed from the ractory). turns out in the case of my my bike (giant contend ar1) „tubeless ready“ really means rim tape, tubeless tyres, tubeless valves etc. pre installed. but that bike is kind of a lower end gravel/endurance mix where weight and performance is not no.1 priority, so an additional butyl-layer doesn‘t really matter. bought it 2nd hand and the previous owner used it for a year without sealant or inner tube 😅

[@PoulHansenDK]

I had this rust issue with Silca dripon and Silca told me that some dripons as f.x. Smoove has added a little oil as well as the wax and oil does protect the outer side of the chain better. It does make the chain a little blacker with time but my and others experience is that the chain will last as long as with Silca drip on and Silca itself has som black additives to their dripon that that also does make your fingers a bit black when handling the chain.

[@craigmcgrath5336]

For the signature, use conformal coating spray, it’s used in electronics to keep printed circuit boards coated after repair and drys ph neutral

[@OriginalTrev]

Wax will only bond to clean, bare steel so stripping the factory grease off the chain is the most important step to effective wax treatments... Using any oil-based wet lube on top of the wax treated chain is wrong for two reasons. 1) the wet lube carries grit and other contaminants into the pins and rollers that will grind the wax from the steel as you pedal. 2) the chain will have to be restripped before rewaxing or the melted wax will become contaminated with the wet lube. Adam Kerin of Zero Friction Cycling and Josh from Silca have discussed this topic at length on video and once or twice with GCN/GMBN/other influencers. The best practices for chain maintenance after wet/gritty/salty rides is removing the chain from the bike then placing it in the kitchen sink and pour boiling water over it to melt the wax coating and flush away the road salt and grit. Now the chain is ready for rewaxing and didn't take longer than waiting for the kettle to boil and remelting your block of wax. I would say most have discovered that keeping two chains waxed and ready to be rotated into service saves time and effort.

[@stuartdryer1352]

The Sram ones can definitely be re-used a few times. And they work fine on Shimano 11 sp chains.

[@stevedouglas3975]

I've been using Squirt drip on wax for years and i find exact same issue. If you wash bike after a wet ride, dry it off and rewax chain even if you think it's dried OK it's pretty often I get rust on cassette and chain. I'd rather not go down wet lube/oil route so put up with it and just wax it after every wet or even damp ride.

[@gcntech]

What sort of conditions are you riding? 👀

[@stevedouglas3975]

I'm in UK so at times cannot avoid wet roads. Plus currently today for example it's a grim Feb day, damp, misty etc and as I keep bikes in garage the atmosphere there is not dry. I'll add that I do use mudguards in winter as well.

[@reiddryden9805]

Talking about quick links Can I use a chain breaker like in the olden daze? Asking for a friend

[@reiddryden9805]

#askgcntech

[@iancalland5934]

I dry hainwith my leaf blower then apply the drip wax then apply between fingers and run chain through them making sure wax is all over the outside of the chain

[@ysarn]

Regarding tubeless tyres without sealant, if you use a plug to fix a tubeless tyre and do not have sealant in it (or not enough) the plug will not successfully plug the hole and air will escape. You need the sealant to make the bond between the plug and the tyre carcass\tread to fill in the micro gaps between the plug and the tyre. Last year on a filthy wet ride I had not replenished my sealant for some time, and what was left inside was too thick to move and air just gushed straight out of the hole aroung the plug even though the hole was the correct size in relation to the plug. Had to resort to a tube to get me round. 2 weeks ago though, I had a flat in my tubeless tyre after riding over a stone and stopped to plug it. I had a good fill of sealant this time though. Plugged it, saw a tiny bit of sealant flowing around the plug and it sealed straight away, pumped up tyre and rode home with no issues. Tyre is still holding pressure well. Sealant is an essential part of the tubeless solution.

[@billythom1]

Silica Synergetic is the hands down best oil based wet lube, my dura ace groupset runs really quietly and performs beautifully with it.

[@s.j.5850]

In reference to the question concerning not using sealant in a tubeless tire, what about just using an inner tube in the tubeless tire like most bikes that come with tubeless wheels originally have installed (they do not ship with sealant in them)?

[@bikeman123]

My Giant came with tyres without sealant and I only road it a few times before I realised and added some sealant.

[@gcntech]

we know of someone who raced a few times without having their tubeless tyres glued on! they were held in place by pressure alone 😳

[@fukawitribe]

Did you mean "tubular" ?

[@Bike4Coffee-Cake]

On wax and rust; if you store your bike indoors, or somewhere dry with a dehumidifier, you don’t get rust. I ride wax throughout the British winter - so much cleaner and easier. If you need to leave your bike somewhere wet / damp / cold-ish (0-10 C), then it either needs to be dried super carefully, or you might be better off with wet lube…

[@RedWingsninetyone]

I reuse my quick links multiple times. I have yet to have one fail before the chain is in need of replacement from wear to begin with.

[@McLovin38FFs]

Hi Graham and Sir Ollie, I have a 2021 XL Giant Propel and have an occasional problem with speed wobbles. I’m not a fast rider (old man with a heart condition) so it only happens when I hit 55 kph or better going downhill. Have ridden bikes my whole life so it’s not an experience problem. My question is :- How can I stop it from happening (besides going slower)? TIA and love the show!

[@ShimmeringOrb]

#askgcntech Crank length and power perception. Hi cool tech folk. I’ve been thinking about my crank length a wee bit too much recently. I have two bikes that are pretty similar except one has 175mm cranks and the other the shorter 172.5mm. I “feel” like I can’t get the same power out on the shorter cranks. Is this a thing or just my perceived power. *Note; I don’t use a power meter. Love the show, brightens up my day. Lachy

[@feedbackzaloop]

About DA chainrings: Ultegra front derailleur is said to have capacity only up to a 52t bigger chainring. So would it be possible to move it up enough before comitting to dremeling the direct mount? This has to be checked as well

[@chris1275cc]

Its fine, the derailleurs are identical in form and function (DA uses lighter more "exotic" materials) The reason Shimano say this is because they dont make an Ultegra ring above 52T. You might not be able to tell the App you are using a 54 though as it wont allow "out of spec" options. My 105 has a 10-30 aftermarket XDR Cassette, but I think I had to tell the app it was 11-34, works fine.

[@feedbackzaloop]

@@chris1275cc actually, DA cage is ever so slightly taller. But I never tried out to see if it matters enough. Lack of custom cog sizes is a bit of a bummer though, agree.

[@DG-tf9rp]

#askgcntech What happened to UST tubeless tires and rims. they did not need sealant?. And the standard?

[@chris1275cc]

For the signature I would use "Paint Protection Film" but forgo the soapy water and just use plain water to be safe.

[@davidp1879]

Great tech video today. Can you do a video on micro-adjustments on SRAM AXS rear derailleurs (Force) perhaps? I’ve tried the SRAM videos but I can’t seem to get it just right. Thanks ! Also You might point out that when replacing a single Shimano chainring the gap can’t be over 16 teeth (correct me if I’m wrong). Cheers

[@viffer94]

I know in the case of KMC’s Missing Link their 11 speed quick link is reusable while their 12 speed quick link is considered non-reusable by the manufacturer. Must be due to the smaller size of the link and the associated loss in strength and robustness? At any rate I have reused 12 speed links before with no problems as long as I haven’t managed to mangle them to bits while taking them off and putting them back on. Would replace if they’re looking a bit tired though and always carry a spare.

[@stefanwagener]

The bigger problem with rust and wax is that the cassette is more prone to rust especially at the areas you can't reach easily with a brush, like the back side of the biggest cog. The chain is easier to clean and/or take off, but the cassette I don't want to take of on a weekly basis.

[@MisterE331]

#askgcntech...What's up guys and gals love the show...I own a few bikes with 105 and it's easy to know when to change the disc brake pads and rotors but how do we know when it's time to change the fluid in the hydraulic lines??

[@tn9274]

put a clear protective tape on top of the signature, maybe?

[@Lerainier]

#askgcntech I have a question concerning TPU inner tubes. I‘m considering fitting them to my summer wheels. I’m running Conti GP 5000s in 28mm. My preferred option are Schwalbe Aerothans but they sell them in 23-28mm and 28-35mm. So technically both should fit. What are the differences concerning riding comfort and rolling resistance between choosing the smaller vs the wider tube. The wider ones could fit to my winter wheels (tubeless) as a spare. So that’s what I‘m probably going for. Thanks for the great content on your channel! Keeps me awake at night far too often….

[@justsomedude7556]

I found SRAM quick links for 3 or 4 per and got a pack of 6 for less than $20

[@nonchalant-gaming]

put a bike skin on top of the signature, but make sure you put it neatly

[@sampeacocke3259]

Hi GCN I have been using the tubeless system for many years and have converted to a sealant which contains particles to seal larger punctures however whilst I haven’t had a puncture since the change I now suffer from blocked valves and clogged cores. I have tried soaking the valve/core in silicon lube which sorts works - are there better solutions

[@xmarcika]

6:18 I think with the quick link he meant if the quick link it self will stretch or not? Because a chain after a few thousand kilometres stretch it self. So does the quick link too?

[@saxon1376]

Very informative show , Can you explain the reasoning behind having a larger tyre on the back and a smaller one on the front ? Its time for some new boots and I’m considering sizes #askgcntech

[@GarethAled]

#askgcntech Hi team! Ultra distance bikepacking question…. I need new wheels for an upcoming long distance event (Pan Celtic Race this year). I’m trying to decide between getting 50mm carbon wheels (and commit to power banks as means of charging devices) or a solid alloy wheelset built around a dynamo hub, powered front light and USB charger. My thinking being that the time I will save not having to stop and charge power banks will outweigh the aerodynamic benefits of a carbon wheelset. I don’t have the budget for carbon wheels with a dynamo unfortunately. Would love your thoughts. Love you, BYE

[@StuartDoyle-l4q]

#askgcntech My S-Works SL7 has dual sided power meter cranks (Duraace 9100), and my Garmin 1030 will only look to connect to either L or R. Each time I ride it detects one side connected, and then asks if I want to switch the other side. Thanks, Stu.

[@dazzawest]

#askgcntech What's the difference between hunching over the bars(bad) and tucking your head down, full turtle head style(good)? I'm not sure if I'm hunching or tucking.

[@oplkfdhgk]

5:49 i haven't seen any rust on my waxed chain and i ride basically every day and it has been really snowy and cold for like months. i think this is most likely an issue with the chain and not the lubricant.

[@oplkfdhgk]

i personally really like kmc ept chains for rain and snow. they are just so rust resistant.

[@stefanwagener]

Probably the coating and the material itself has some influence. Same is valid for the cassette which in our family is actually the bigger rust problem than the chain. And chain is more easily to clean than the cassette.

[@Dimashoey]

Hi awesome Presenters, what is the drawback using tubeless tire with TPU tubes? I feel like wanting the extra layer protection of tubeless tire but feeling lazy to maintain sealant #askgcntech

[@jmcdowall]

Whenever Ollie says “my windsock” I exclaim “YOUR windsock?!”. Then I have a little chuckle because I’m a simple man.

[@gcntech]

We can share the windsock

[@michmastahl]

@@gcntechI never share my socks. Just sayin‘… 😜

[@cup_and_cone]

Anyone else remember the first UST tubeless setups that didn't need sealant on MTBs 25 years ago? Those tire casings were super thicc bois...

[@gcntech]

oh yes! they were heavy beasts!

[@fukawitribe]

Just to clarify, yes you can run _tubeless_ tyres without sealant, that's what they're designed to do; tubeless _ready_ tyres are intended to be used with sealant (although some may work without, at least to some degree).

[@dougpence3862]

When will Zipp make a tt rear disc wheel hookless?

[@PedroTD]

For tire that do not need sealant, you have also the impossible to fit (😅) Continental Grand Prix 5000 TL. They can’t be used (according to Continental) on a hookless wheel.

[@kaupo80]

Today the tubeless tires are in fact tubeless ready or tubeless easy. I believe Mavic had the true tubeless system UST. Tubeless ready tires require sealant.

[@davidbarndollar7403]

#askgcntech I am swapping the cassette on my road bike from a Shimano 11-32 to 11-34, but I have an indoor trainer with a 11-32 cassette that I'd rather not have to change. Is it possible to leave my trainer cassette alone, or will the slightly longer chain to accommodate the new cassette be a problem when putting the bike on the trainer? Thanks, tech gurus-

[@mrx1979ua]

Why not just get reusable quick-links from KMC or other brands? I've reused them dozens of times. And keep doing so. Have not thrown one out in 3 years. And I only do hot waxing. Sometimes a chain gets taken off once a week still same link

[@traderz13]

For the signature, cover with helicopter tape?

[@stevemc1790]

So how about those string bikes? Have you ever tried one?

[@michaelre7556]

I have a gravel bike with a press fit bottom bracket. I have heard that these can eventually start creaking. Is there anything that can be done to lower the chances of this happening? #AskGCNTech

[@joelterwilliger9901]

Convert it to a threaded BB. I believe Wheels Manufacturing has various solutions

[@petersouthernboy6327]

You cannot tap threads into a laminated carbon fiber structure.

[@ericnoreen98]

#askgcntech. Out of curiosity I decided to try immersion waxing using silca's wax to see what all the hype was about. Other than the hassle of connectng the quick link, it really is very low effort and I want to stick with it out of laziness. However, even after several hours of riding, the drivetrain rolls noticeably heavier than it does with rock n roll gold, which was my old lube. This is obvious both in the stand and on the road. All of my outdoor rides have been in the 40-50F deg range, and my workshop is usually around 60deg in the winter. The more I think about it, the more I think that wax is going to kinda suck in colder temperatures just due to the physical characteristics of wax in cold temps. I don't doubt the data showing the superiority of immersion waxing, but I'm guessing all those tests have been run at room temperature. Do we have any data on drive train efficiency in the cold?

[@eddysobieralski8075]

#askgsntech Guys... you CANNOT re-use a 12 speed KMC Missing Link - it has a safety latch design which means it is specifically single use.

[@JFomo]

They have sealant removers now? I have sealant all over my garage floor (don't ask ☹️) will that silca stuff remove it?

[@sammurrie8374]

#askgcn I am looking forward to waxing my new chain this spring. Along with it, I am putting on a 53T chainring(old is 52). Can I break the chain down to length after I wax it.? (I'm not doing all the installation of chainring or chain)

[@Sutlore007]

Dear GCN tech gentlemen, I was wondering if I rely on rear disc brake a lot more than the front one, could I use a 140mm disc rotor on the front and 160mm rotor on the back for more stopping power on any steep descent. #askgcntech

[@corsica20cola]

#askgcntech Hi GCN Tech team & community ! Love what you do, I learnt a lot thru your videos but here's a mystery I can't solve... Can you? I was on my commute ride, with innertubes freshly pumped to 7.5 bar. Missed a bunny hop and heard a "pop" sound when rear wheel touched the step I was hopping over. I suspected a pinch flat as the pressure dropped to 1bar, but inspection showed no puncture. I pumped back to 7.5 bar and it holds. You do you explain that? Cheers!

[@Millicente]

#askgcntech Hey tech team! I hope my question makes it into the alloted time, it's about frame stiffness. I currently have a cheap alloy frame with cheap included alloy wheels that I purchased as my first road bike in 2021 but I’ve noticed the past 2 summers is that when I get out of the saddle on a climb and try to produce power, I feel like the bike is bending as I move it side to side. Is this just the wheels or is it also the frame? Do I need to go stiffer carbon for both? I’d like to get rid of this feeling but don’t want to upgrade something that isn’t needed. I don't have the ability to test ride a carbon bike in my size anywhere nearby. Thank you kindly!

[@uncleants]

Three or four months into UK daily winter commuting on waxed chains and I think I can safely say it's a pretty bad idea. This Winter has been ghastly. Wet can be coped with. A wipe down with a microfibre? Meh, not really. It can't dry between the links, so those''ll rust. But a flush out with IPA or meths when you get home will work, so long as you dont forget ... ever. Salt is another matter. A wipe wont get rid of it. An alcohol flush will dry it but wont get rid of it. it stays their waiting to get wet and mess your chain up again .... take your chain off, flush it with fresh water to lose the salt, then alcohol flush. Do it every day. Fear Monday morning. The thing is it's not about miles ... it's about exposure to the wet and salt, and any time spent without getting wet and salt off. Seriously. get a KMC EPT chain, put oil on it. Go back to lovely wax in the spring.

[@DH-.]

Do you guys carry first aid or repair equipment for big falls... Damaged bike damaged body few Miles from help sometimes ... Has anyone invented a road-rash set to Wash sanitize an seal ?

[@feedbackzaloop]

Wash with water out of the bottle, sanitize with own platelets, seal with adhesive dressing. So basically only the latter is an addition to the every day carry, comes in 10cm squares, easy to fit in a jersey or saddlebag But of course there are first aid kits on the market, way too excessive for common taste and needs. Seen those only couple of times on big club rides

[@paulschulman8131]

SRAM 12s Flat top chains DO NOT have any aftermarket quicklinks that are sold as reusable. Wipperman tried but was unsuccessful. KMC 12s is single use. I've come to hate not just SRAM but 12s groupsets in general. This move to single use proprietary parts is extremely annoying.

[@torandi]

I've been thinking about going tubeless, but recently bought new wheels, which I now realize doesn't specify that they are tubeless-ready. Can I convert them myself, or would I have to get new wheels to go tubeless? #askgcntech

[@feedbackzaloop]

There is no conversion, it's a matter of construction and tolerances. First look how much of a flat planepresent at rim bed (look up the photos of tubeless rims for reference). Then if it is okay-ish just try to fit the tyre, no sealant yet, because you might still need to return the wheels. If the tyre goes on snug, seats with a pop when you inflate, but without a fight, and doesn't unseat when deflated - congratulations, you are lucky to have a tubeless-capable rim and tyre combination.

[@bobbybobman3073]

#askgcntech As a heavier cyclist 90 ish kg, and only about 180-190 watt (esimtated) ftp, I'd love a road bike, but I'm scared I will have an issue not having low enough gears. My current hybrid has a lowest gear of 28:32 (front:back) and it isn't really low enough to do a lot of my local cyling routes, and on sustained sustained climbs above 3% I eventually am just barely making progress. Current bike has an 8 speed 12-32 on back and a 48/38/28 up front. I know I am heavy, I know I'm 'low' power, but I'd still love to actually be able to ride various places and not be restricted to basicslly the flattest possible rides in my area. Am I actually in the market for a mountian bike?

[@stefanwagener]

That's a very good point and I also find myself complaining about the gearing that is more designed for young pros than old hobbyists and more for short races than for long bikepacking trips. The good thing is that the Shimano 11-speed road drivetrains can be used to a good extend beyond spec. E.g. I have 50/34 and exchanged the 11-34 cassette (11-speed) with an MTB 11-40 cassette. On on a GRX I replaced the 48/31 with an 3rd party 44/28 chain ring set and the 11-34 cassette with an MTB 11-42 and just had to adjust the B-screw at the derailleur. And I am much more frequently in the first gear while my highest gear is basically never used. Changing wheel size from 700c to 650b might be an option, but requires probably bigger tires to not lower the whole bike too much. The problem, switching to a MTB bike is that you more likely will also switch to offroad terrain and there the gradients are typically much steeper than on the road. So also on an MTB you might complain about gearing ... at least I do :)

[@feedbackzaloop]

Unless you are ready to modify the gears, GRX 1x12 with practically an MTB cassette is the choice. Otherwise the otions are a supercompact chainset or mullet setups. There are different approaches and therefore plenty of instructions and hacks online how to do them.

[@paopixel]

HOW Ollie went through the first question without mentioning that Alex have a few Dura Ace cranks lying around?

[@grobbosixtyone]

Why would you want to run tubeless without sealant? Defeats the whole benefit of running tubeless

[@dceperley]

#askgcntech How can I determine my average power from my FTP? If my FTP is 205, what should my average power in watts be for a 3.5-hour ride?

[@stefanwagener]

That's why I believe the FTP measurement is not meaningful for non-pros because contrary to its meaning, it is not the sustainable power output of the average rider. If I look at my real world data my average power of around 240W for 1h is definitely much higher than for 6h trips (160-180W). Of course it depends on fueling during the ride but also your muscles need to be trained for endurance rides. FTP might be a meaningful value for professional training, but for the average Joe without a training plan I don't see much value in it. But the powermeter is helpful for long endurance rides as you learn to limit your power in the beginning of trip. E.g. in my case I try to limit myself to 200W as I know that my FTP value is not sustainable for longer rides ... so forget your FTP value as a value you can use for your long rides.

[@dceperley]

@@stefanwagener That’s why I was hoping there is a formula to determine average power for longer rides. I want to ride hard enough to set a good time but not too hard to blow up. I guess I’ll need to do some trial runs in training to determine what is best.

[@stefanwagener]

@@dceperley As it depends on your fitness level for endurance rides and the capability of fueling correctly that varies from having almost no power loss to bonking completely ... see Connor's test a while back. So yes, what applies to you, you can only find out yourself ... but I would advise at looking some more (GCN) videos on how to fuel properly. That is really essential on long rides.

[@bingbing3464]

Is it just me or no one ever thought of applying car polish wax on the outer chain surfaces, keeping it water repellent and having very smooth and shiny chains. (Inner parts are lubricated and protected by drip wax)

[@nickkambitis5340]

Quick links can be used many many times. I always keep a well worn one in my wolf tool and if my chain or quick link was to break, I have a spare. Because it’s a well used, it’s easier to close with the wolf tool as apposed to a new quick link that comes with a new chain that is far too tight for wolf pliers. As to rust on a wax chain. Run 3 chains and rotate more frequently in wet conditions. It’s only ever surface rust anyway.

[@fotmheki]

You know, the first man doing more than 50 km in the hour record 🤣

[@stevewilts]

Moser? Frame it!

[@timtaylor9590]

I used quick links that I can take apart by hand, don't try at home.

[@gaborozorai3714]

I thought the main reason for using a quick-link was re-useability.

[@savagepro9060]

Looks like you guys have a special MacBook Pro with special future-proof sealant that never gets outdated. When was the last time you guys got a MacBook upgrade?🍎🤭🤭🤭🤭

[@treyquattro]

if it ain't broke ... don't pay the Apple tax!

[@savagepro9060]

@@treyquattro 🍎 is very 😡😡

[@redalert2834]

Leave your bike with a waxed chain outdoors overnight and the links will seize up enough to ruin the chain beyond repair. So if you're unfortunate enough to have a waxed chain, remember to coat it in oil before venturing outdoor, unless you're one of those indoor hamsters.

[@Jari1973]

#askgcntech Now we need knowledge of chemistry.. Which chain wax additive is better.. High quality motor oil or paraffin oil (kerosene).. A theoretical answer is enough 😁

[@benoitbvg2888]

You guys just need to click on a user name in the comments to get the "correct" name (with formatting, spacing and without those pesky numbers at the end)

[@bchearne]

5:27 this makes zero sense to me, as wax is not water soluble. If you’ve waxed correctly there is a very thin coat of wax on every chain surface, and I’ve had zero rust riding all winter here in the Appalachian mountains. I would suggest NOT wiping the chain at all, just rinse it with water and let it dry in the sun. You risk wiping off the wax with your microfiber, and the dirt that matters is not on the outside of the chain anyway

[@johnwardle9667]

Quick links are single use only. So say the people who sell you the $18 quick link. I'm still struggling to see their motive...

[@TnFruit]

Ehm, Tubeless Ready Tires doesn't require sealant to be air tight, Tubeless Easy Tires need sealant. That's what I know. ☺️

[@timtaylor9590]

You can use less sealant

[@feedbackzaloop]

#askgcntech IT question: can you sort out the comments moderation policies so that bots will get banned while legit users would not need to wait for approval?

[@stefanwagener]

You need to ask this question to KZbin, not to the channel owners

[@feedbackzaloop]

@@stefanwagener nope, it's in owners capacity to adjust the presets.

[@vozzen]

Why can’t you ride without sealant? You didn’t really answer the question.

[@lawrencefranck9417]

Tubeless, answer to a question that wasn’t asked.

[@Tarmaccyclocross]

The question is why run them in the first place a load of crap

[@spishco]

Here's what I hate about tubeless systems; the chemicals, the mess, and the added expense. It's all a product manager's cash grab, with only a marginal gain to the consumer. Tubes 4 Life.

[@gcntech]

What about the potential hassle of having to stop in mid winter during a rainstorm to change a tube? Yep, you can tell that it rains lots here at GCN Megabase! 😂

[@Mr.SlipperyX]

@@gcntech man, that kind of pain almost makes me want to convert.