Gear Repair: Making and Installing Bronze Bushings and Machining a New Shaft

[@roberthorner8494]

I KNOW I'M LATE WATCHING THIS, BUT YOU STILL DID A GREAT JOB. THANKS KEITH

[@VintageMachinery]

+ROBERT HORNER Thank you!

[@miguelcatignas803]

Fantastic!!! Your skill/s is really marvelous Keith since not every machinist possessed the talent like yours.I wish i'm like you.

[@RandallMoore1955]

Masterpiece. One heck of a job Keith.

[@JRo250]

Excellent work. I love your demeanor, too. You approach the issues very humbly, almost unsure of what to do next. Obviously you're a master of your work judging by the results. I can only wish my stuff came out half as good as yours.

[@masb12341]

Hi Kieth, enjoyed the video, nice work. A very useful tip when checking the screw cutting pitch is to mark a start point on the work piece withdraw the tool point, engage the sadle and run the lathe at a very low speed and count the number of revolution of the chuck relative to the desired thread pitch, stop the lathe and measure the distance the tool has travelled which should be one inch. I.e. Eight revolution of the chuck equals one inch distace which equals eight threads per inch. Very useful when cutting fine and odd numbered threads or when you don't have athread guage. A chalk mark on the chuck helps with the counting. If the work piece is small and the thread distance is less than one inch, you can put a sharpy mark on the bedway. Press and ruuning fit tollerances when making bushes with a thin wall is always tricky. I tend to finish off small bushes with an expanding reamer. Good luck keep them coming. Michael

[@richardbrooks3569]

Nice work on that.

[@rogerbeaulieu9734]

Very nice video series, glad I was able to watch all at one time.

[@VintageMachinery]

+Roger Beaulieu Thanks for watching!

[@bbtjd001]

Another inspiring video. Gives us new guys hope. Thanks again.

[@Kalkaekie]

Very impressive work !!

[@patrickradcliffe3837]

After watching the video on fixing Leo's threading machine and this gear. One tip you should be pressing your bushings first and then reaming to size. This will insure exact alignment and uniform size of the inside diameter. You mention that the alignment is not that critical, even a small misalignment will result in premature wear in the bushing.

[@teebosaurusyou]

A friend installed a couple of bushing for me this way. They were maybe 4" (100mm) apart, 1.25" (37.5mm) O.D. When pressed in they were only slightly under size for the shaft (0.001" or so). He then used an expanding (adjustable) hand reamer to make the shaft fit perfectly.

[@robertmcmanus636]

I love the whistle of the steam locomotive in the background.

[@m50halifax5]

i wish i could go back to school and start all over again .

[@m50halifax5]

just can't find the money dam hard to even get funding to do it , but if i came from another county the money would not be hard too get .

[@AeroSport103]

Nicely done!

[@sverreeriksen1982]

super intressent job Keith

[@shobud7561]

I really enjoyed watching the steps you took in making theses parts ... The completion of both the shaft & bushings are a perfect fit... I can see from your work that you are a perfectionist and very skilled at it ... GREAT JOB !!! Wished you were local " I need a extension housing bushing made for a 3 speed Automatic Transmission in a 83 Toyota Corolla in restoring..... I have ordered several off the internet and they fit the housing perfect " but the new yoke I purchased for the driveshaft has to much play up & down - side to side when installed ..... Anyway great job on your project....

[@quantumss]

Very nice Keith. You remind me of my school shop teacher ( a very long time ago ).

[@VintageMachinery]

+quantumss Thank you - I have fond memories of my shop teachers...

[@scottinWV]

Very nice work!

[@VintageMachinery]

+Scottie Johnson Thank you!

[@guzelovalish]

Very good video and presenter

[@michaelharris1895]

beautiful work, I am 69 and have access to a lathe. think i will start to learn how to use it while all of me still works.

[@jeffren70]

Hi Keith, I enjoy your videos and hope to see that machine running soon. On a side note, I have noticed that the air nozzle you use is not an OSHA approved one with the side vents to limit the pressure to 30 psi. It's always something they check for at my work. Keep up the good work.

[@phooesnax]

Awesome video! Keep them coming...

[@KnolltopFarms]

Hey Keith, I'm just going back in time and watching some of your older videos, and it's been fun. You gave me a good laugh @ 10:00 when you say "You don't want any surprises on that 1st pass!", and after the great laugh, I had to wonder...yes, I don't want any on the first pass, but when would I want a surprise on the lathe? ;) Happy Easter my friend, and thanks for helping to bring me into this world...Aloha, Chuck

[@scor440]

Great job.A true machinist.Now if you were to where safety glasses it would be perfect.

[@scor440]

***** Oh ok so the side shields are invisible.Thanks for the reply

[@mwilliamshs]

If he were to go where? Or to wear what?

[@robertestes1706]

I have quite a bit of mostly home and gunsmithing lathe experience. I recently upgraded to quick change tool holders and now am considering going to carbide insert bits. I am good at sharpening my high speed steel bits so would like to hear your thoughts on the subject. The last job I did was to install a muzzle break on a ss barrel Weatherby magnum and I wasn't to happy with the quality of the finish. I really enjoy your videos. Bob

[@richardsalsbery1101]

I knew there was a reasen I liked you ...every thing done right

[@nazemalachkar9340]

Hello Keith I enjoy your vedios

[@b3nsb3nz]

Nice video, interesting subject and good production value, Thanks! If I might make a slight suggestion maybe during the sped up portions add some music.

[@davidgrube849]

I like your vids, good job

[@dona8056]

Thanks for sharing

[@PacoOtis]

Well done and thanks! Would you please consider talking more! There is a lot of "shoe leather" (time spent doing repetition) when you could be telling us things such as why you use a certain lubricant or why you do the steps you do. We like listening to you as you know what you are doing and are an excellent instructor. Again, thanks!

[@VintageMachinery]

Joseph Stokes Thanks Joseph - I always try to insert what I think people want to know. To the point that a lot of guys tell me that I talk too much! Regardless, I like to teach so that is what I do.

[@anthonytammer9214]

It's nice to bore a little undersize and come in with an adjustable reamer to ream to size. The finish would be a lot better: Boring leaves small ridges and after a short time those are worn away.

[@mwilliamshs]

Reaming after installation is yet more accurate and allows aligning the bushings' inner diameters.

[@joedell71]

Hi Keith Great video very informative. One question though. Why did you turn a new shaft for the gear and not add weld to the old one and turn it back down to size?. Keep up the great work. Very inspiring.

[@gsardokla]

Mr. Rucker, At about 23:15, as you begin to initially turn the outer surface, the entire shaft goes in 'til it appears to touch the chuck jaws. Was that intentional? You're still better than TV!

[@VintageMachinery]

gsardokla I am trying to remember without going back and watching it again (that one was made a while back), but if I remember correctly, no it was not intentional. But we made it work anyway!

[@juansimon5802]

dont think he tapped those holes cause he was worried about the bushings coming out, i think he was trying to keep them from spinning inside the gear, atleast thats what i would do it for. great video

[@gordonagent7037]

Keith, as always a great video. Couple of newbie questions please, is bronze better than brass for bushings and also would they ever need lubricating or do they run good dry

[@bx2200]

First, I love your videos, so thank you! I have a question about this project: Since you're going to considerable lengths to get the gear and shaft back up to spec, why did you decide not to re-bore/true-up the existing bore before making the bushing?

[@markwebster8489]

Excellent video....I learnt where i've been going wrong when doing bushings for my old car!. What would you make the interference for a 1" oilite type bush if you just wanted a really light press fit...ie. so not to change the ID too much. Also you always cut towards the chuck, is there a reason? Thanks again!

[@VintageMachinery]

Mark Webster For a light fit like that, probably 0.0005" would be plenty - no more than 0.001". As for the cutting, I mostly cut towards the chuck as the pressure from the tool pushes the work into the chuck - for a lot of jobs, that makes it self tightening. If you went the other way, you could pull the work out of the chuck.

[@abiel.rodriguez]

I like this repair, Im no sure what happened with the audio. Do you have any follow ups of final machine assembly? I would be cool to see

[@VintageMachinery]

abiel rodriguez There are lots of follow up videos to this one on the Vance project. You can look through my other videos to find more!

[@jlg4880]

Out of curiosity, why weren't you using the basic hole system, i.e, hole drilled, bored & reamed to a nominal size (1-1/4" dia) and the shaft diameter adjusted to fit? Here's hoping we get to see videos of that planer/matcher in operation. Can't wait to see that machine running.

[@jlg4880]

***** Sorry 'bout that! Watched it again and you explained the rationale behind your workflow. I must've been overly mesmerized by the shiny smooth finish that Lodge & Shipley is capable of yielding. Didn't expect to see any in captivity south of the Mason-Dixon line. Guess it works out that it had a "government job" before coming out to the Georgia Agricultural Museum--beyond the chipped paint, it's seems barely broken in. I'll have to check out the York Museum of Industry (I think it's called) next time I'm back home in Pennsylvania.

[@michelchartrand7257]

Was your bushing made of oil-lite 660 ? And I thought that I saw a hair line crack on the smaller gear,thanks for answering Keith.

[@AbbeyRoad69147]

fantastic set of videos. watched all of them all through. but where is the video of the working, restored part in place in the machine? huge let down not seeing this machine working

[@VintageMachinery]

+Paul Sheer Paul, the restoration of this machine took place over nearly three years - it was a total tear down and rebuild and this video was just one of many videos where I was working on different parts of the machine. If you want to see the machine running, we have it going now and there are videos showing that. Here is the video of us running the machine for the first time (it was filmed over a year and a half after the gear repair video): kzbin.info/www/bejne/mHeyqKtslJmAa8k

[@AbbeyRoad69147]

+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org cool. thanks.

[@sdwputnam]

Hi, I know my question is 8 years late but it's never to late to ask to learn. For the arbor repair, if one does not have the equipment to make a complete arbor, how about building up the low areas with weld then turn down to your needed diameter ? I for one have a lathe but not one what can do what yours can. A 67 yo Vet. Retired in Ct.

[@AMSRocker]

Don't you ever get worried about heating the outer part and then with the inner part being cool when the two got back to room temp the outer part beaks due to stress from shrinking around the inner part that is expanding? Thanks

[@JohannaMueller57]

my left ear enjoyed that

[@VintageMachinery]

+JohannaMueller57 Sorry, we had some audio problems on some of our earlier videos. Long since fixed, but some of the older videos still have that problem....

[@alexpowers3697]

I've used dry ice in the past for the inside part.

[@elrond12eleven]

some sorts of alloys become rather brittle at such a low temperature. Heating is better if you don't bother to reduce the hardness.

[@fireblade639]

just put the bushing in the freezer all night, when your hand stick to the bronze is the right temp.. it will slide in like a charm...

[@VintageMachinery]

It makes a difference!

[@thephotographicauditor6715]

fireblade639 I agree. If a bit more cooling is needed, spray it with a shot of freon too.

[@fireblade639]

The Photographic Auditor that Is a better one...you don't have to wait...Next Time i'll try that...

[@3347861]

I put the female in the oven at a reasonable temp and the male in the freezer. Works like a charm.

[@rockydogsdad]

Had to use liquid nitrogen to pop off a thick ceramic coating from a steel tube before.

[@VintageMachinery]

Yeah, I have thought about putting some music in there. I will have to search out a nice piece of royalty free music to use there. Easier said than done though....

[@abrahamscall]

Keith, when I was training in England we were always taught to pull back the turning tool before putting another cut on. This does not allow the tool to touch the work on the return stroke so it leaves no witness mark to make measuring difficult and also I have had carbide tools break on the return trip. Have you any experience of this or similar situations? By the bye I love your vids, keep it up.

[@lindsaythomas2283]

I like those old 1 to 2 Lufkin mic's

[@hemipatton7799]

As a model builder and machinist as well I don't make enough "chips" I'd KILL to get my hands on as much of that cast iron chips and even the bronze chips to use in train cars as scrap loads! I'd PAY to have it shipped to me for this reason as I don't make enough of one type metal to load one car, and sadly, I NEED as much as possible to load several cars of the same metal and then each type metal to make up a whole train of nothing but scrap metal cars, that look as tho the metal they're hauling is "shredded"!!! PLEASE send me a message if you could help me out Keith! ~Thanks!

[@stevecox2530]

Hi from the UK, is there another part to this where the shaft and gear are re-installed on the machine? I'd like to see how the new tooth meshes, as I think there should be a radius at the root of the tooth. Great work :-)

[@mwilliamshs]

Three old radius was cut away. There's now more clearance.

[@stefflus08]

Thanks, I really like your videos! One thing, at 31:33 I thought the shadows was fooling my eyes, so I went and put a straightedge on the screen. Isn't the bearing face of the old shaft tapered ever so slightly?

[@davidhyer3404]

My mentor keeps a old gas stove and dry ice in the shop for this exact reason

[@jiml9944]

I would consider turning the shaft to remove pitting and make a bushing to suit new dimension.

[@mwilliamshs]

Pitting looks deeper than the threads

[@williampugh6699]

What kind of lubrication does the gear have?

[@adrianstephens56]

Thanks for the videos, Keith. I noticed (at 17:16) on the small gear by the repaired tooth, there seemed to be a crack on the junction with the material in the root of the tooth. Was this so? If so, will it have any effect on the longevity of the repair.

[@VintageMachinery]

Lots of people commented on this, and I have to admit that it does indeed look like a crack on video. What you are seeing is a line in the material left over from the extrusion process. I think in one of my follow up videos I actually address this and show on camera that it is NOT a crack.

[@adrianstephens56]

Thanks for taking the time to reply, Keith. I realise you must get a lot of comments. Unfortunately I watched your videos out of sequence. I saw a brazed tooth repair video first, then this, then the tooth repair videos on this gear. Before I'd seen those videos I'd assumed this was some kind of brazed repair. Now I see it's a dovetail insert, so it's entirely reasonable that some kind of seam would show, even if the joint is securely silver soldered. Thanks again for the videos, I like your calm explanations, and getting straight down to the machining.

[@pintofkimberley]

Without wishing to sound daft, why didn't you take the O/D off the bushes you pushed out. That would've had to be the right size and personally I'd make the I/D half a thou tight and then scrape/polish the bush in to suit the shaft. Really nice bit of thread cutting though and a nice finish on all the m/c'ed parts.

[@pintofkimberley]

***** did you ever get through doing something and wished you had gone about it a different way? Too many times to count (8->). Usually half way through a shift. Going slightly sideways, I do like that where possible, you make new. Proper repairs them, you can guarantee the material structure.

[@mwilliamshs]

Measuring the exterior of soft bushings after they've been pressed in, worn, then pressed out is a great way to get undersized new bushings.

[@pintofkimberley]

@@mwilliamshs After 35 years of practice, I've never had a problem.

[@EMCOcompact]

Did you heat up the whole kuggwheel brazeing? Proced with those videos.

[@kk6aw]

Is Keith apron on backwards

[@koepketube]

I've always been a little confused how heating expands in these scenarios. Wouldn't it also expand inwards, making it a bit more difficult to press the bushing in? The freezer, however, I see no problems shrinking something in its entirety.

[@jothain]

You're actually right about that part expanding inwards (addition: also inwards), but I'm almost 100% sure that it's material between the hole in the middle and so to say outer race of the part kind of "wins" in expanding in direction of arc on material as there's more surface area there. Sorry I'm not english speaking person so I don't know what could be the exact terms to use. Freezing is good on the bushing side of part and I also personally use it quite much if I assemble something, but it's just that you can't get that much size difference because of small temperature differential and in many case it's necessary to apply heat to part you're fitting something like in this video.

[@kevins5911]

don't look at it from a directional standpoint, imagine the entire piece as a unit gets larger

[@mwilliamshs]

@@kevins5911 exactly. Imagine a bagel. Now imagine an even bigger bagel. The hole grew too, right?

[@tushermyth]

so how much intereference are you running for those bushings there ?

[@mwilliamshs]

.003-.004"

[@donpollard9460]

13:00 - let the chips fly!

[@tomherd4179]

Is that a crack at about the 4:30 position on the gear at time in video at 17:01

[@ZipperOfficial]

It's a repair job he did earlier

[@jonka1]

It's not a crack, it's a very badly silver-soldered joint with just about no silver or in fact any strength.

[@BigMjolnir]

Keith, thank you for another great video. I appreciate both the very good cinematography that lets me see what's going on, and the explanations, in the video and often in the comments too, of why you have decided to do things the way you are. Very helpful to those of us who are late to the learning game on these topics. I noticed in this video that you didn't make a "relief" cut at the end of your thread the way I've often seen others do in threading videos. I realize that you weren't up against a hard stop in this case, but isn't it tricky to stop in the same spot each pass? Do you have to watch the thread dial as well as the tool position to hit it? On a related topic, it seems to me that rather than worrying about disengaging at just the right spot before hitting a hard stop or in a relief cut, it should be possible to run the lathe in reverse, with the tool holder on the back side of the work...and run the carriage left to right and off the end of the work. True, or am I missing something? Thanks! -- Mike

[@BigMjolnir]

***** Thanks, Keith! It's nice to know I'm starting to "get it"! Initially I thought you might be able to run the lathe in reverse, with the tool on the front side, but upside down to accomplish the "threading out" idea...but on second thought I realized that that would be putting the stress on the tool holder in the "up" direction, which it isn't designed for. Don't know if that would give you huge chatter, or cause the tool to ricochet off your forehead, but either way, it's not the desired outcome! Thanks again for the educational and entertaining videos! -- Mike B.

[@jonka1]

@16:35 close up of the gear. Is that a hairline crack in the root of the tooth to the right of the new one?

[@gemini1965]

years ago, but... no, its a new tooth machined and soldered in the gear. there is a video of it.

[@BedsitBob]

Couldn't you have simply replaced the bronze bushings, with a couple of roller bearing races?

[@eliduttman315]

Keith was in the process of RESTORING a 19th century machine. Bronze bushings were OEM and that's what he used. Remember, the Vance planer/matcher is in a working MUSEUM. Eli D.

[@Mekratrig]

Why use a boring bar instead of a drill to make a center hole.

[@mwilliamshs]

Can bore to any size Can only drill to sizes you own bits for, especially relevant for deep holes, and only to the dimension of the bit, especially relevant for press-fit parts.

[@rickboh]

2 Thumbs Up

[@johningardia7106]

Why wouldn't turn the shaft down a bit and oversize the bushing? So you don't have to make a new shaft.

[@riphaven]

Your tail stock is bigger then my whole lathe:-(

[@VintageMachinery]

LOL - well, sometimes you just need a small lathe. I wish I had a smaller one to go with the bigger one!

[@HMartins-351]

A, Bm, D, E

[@williamruss2443]

F

[@Aventuras_en_Moto_Hn]

Gym free,,, hahaha other benefit,,,

[@leehoussaye5262]

All of your audio is in my left speaker. :( otherwise great video.

[@me3333]

HI Keith I was wondering if the original shaft was hardened? If not why didn't you just turn down the original shaft to clean it up since you were making new bushings anyways?

[@me3333]

I meant the shaft that the gear rides on that bolts to the machine

[@mwilliamshs]

The pitting in the shaft was deeper than the threads in its end