Generac Generator Won't Start

[@marriedwithsmallengines]

I just subscribed! Maybe we’ll meet up in Ken’s live stream one of these Saturdays! I love your videos! Your inspirational! 😊

[@jcondon1]

Thanks! Love your videos. Just discovered your channel a couple weeks ago when I was working on a Shihl 028 and watched the replay of Ken’s live steam. I also use an iPhone to record my videos. Have tried various cameras and so far nothing beats the iPhone for video quality. Sound though has been a challenge.

[@robertcochran7103]

I have watched one of your videos too. 🙂

[@dannytreadway4561]

James I just completed a cam replacement because of a broken decompression mechanism on a Briggs and Stratton 18.5 HP Intek engine cam. It was my Widowed Neighbor's Snapper rider. I promised my friend before he died of Pancreatic Cancer that I would watch after his widow. I have kept that promise so far. I did this for her at only the cost of the cam Kit. I also had the confidence to do so after watching so many of your diagnoses on so many engines. I am 69 years old and did not hesitate to take on the repair because you gave me the confidence to do so.. I thank you and I am keeping a promise to a dear friend who meant a lot to me... I always thought that paying it forward was a worthy cause.

[@giggiddy]

Sir God bless you for keeping your word to your friend. Thats very honorable. If everyone had the same values as you its my opinion the world would have almost no issues. Not that you did it for this reason, but I firmly believe that your help and dedication to keeping your word will pay back many fold. Take care my friend and God bless ya. You definitely sound like one of the good ones.

[@patricklucki5368]

If you buy a generator or any small engine machine from James you know your getting a product that has been gone thru with a fine tooth comb.

[@khrisvaughan7145]

A easy way to get the tank grommet out is to find a metal automotive body clip/panel removal tool and grind the slot just wide enough to slip over the small part of the grommet. makes it easy to remove them with out damaging the tank.

[@Michael-gp7mv]

James,as an Australian 🇦🇺 with all due respect I laughed to myself when you said 11-64th I was born 1943 so my schooling was done in imperial measurements,i worked in the building trade all my life,then we went metric,WELL can you imagine plans with duplication numbers imperial conversion to metric when building materials stayed imperial,long story short when I tried to convert 11-64th to metric i got lost,all the best from Perth W.A.👌👌👌👌👌

[@JRattheranch]

As a Welshman, I too, am in the same boat as you! The changeover to metric, as an Engineer, was painful but so worth it in the end! 👌 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

[@stellamcwick8455]

and that’s why the US still uses imperial units. The changeover in the trade and some manufacturing industries would have been……. hard and costly. Rather than change the units used, we just changed the standard on which those units were based. Our imperial units are based on metric equivalents. So we are technically a fully metricated country. We just like to lie to ourselves and say we aren’t.

[@seymoarsalvage]

@@stellamcwick8455 Where in the US? Not industry, all metric, and has been for awhile. I was CNC machining scroll compressors in '06 for Trane, all metric tolerances.

[@stellamcwick8455]

@@seymoarsalvage building trades still use imperial nomenclature for lumber and building materials. Electrical trades still use Imperial nomenclature for cabling, terminal screws, conduit, boxes and fittings. Plumbing still use imperial nomenclature for nearly all its products. As far as industry goes, it depends on the industry. There are still many manufacturers manufacturing products using imperial nomenclature but just converting those measurements to metric equivalents. It’s important to to remember that even though we’ve reached full metrication in our sciences, engineering and any manufacturing that has an international influence (of which Trane might be one), Domestically, imperial nomenclature it is still heavily used. I’ve been an electrical and mechanical engineer for 30 years and it’s still a mixed bag that depends on where the product ends up.

[@MazichMusic]

4.365 mm. Just ask Google...

[@oemytech]

Amazing.... I had the same issue on an old snow blower many years ago. Everyone thought I was nuts for buying it. I pulled the engine and took it to my basement for a look-see. I ground the valve stem until I had the proper cleanse, reassembled it, put it back in the snow blower and bingo I had a running machine. 😊

[@CASEYDODSON]

Love that you are back to having the torque specs back on screen. I don't know why I like that I just do.

[@jcondon1]

I thought of you. They were not there until one of the last edits of the video.

[@pdk79]

James I just bought a Coleman 5000 watt with this very engine on Facebook for $75 and it’s runnning. So I’m so grateful for this video as a guide when the time arises. Really nice job going over the process and procedures so even a newbie like me has a chance of not screwing up. Explaining the paper towel plugs, the importance of washing all lapping compound etc, really good info for us without experience.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks, I approach it.

[@stellamcwick8455]

I like how he hangs a bottle of fuel on a pole like it’s an IV drip.

[@mbsevans]

Umm…yeah, because thats what you do.

[@mikewhitley1183]

I do mechanical work for my friends and they have a complaint that I clean things too much! I'm very glad to meet you! I enjoy your videos very much, Mike

[@bertgrau3934]

I had that complaint from customers. ( too much cleaning) I would tell them, I may find something else that needs fixing as well.

[@oakdalecarl9976]

Love the fact that you use a mix of old and new tools to get jobs done! I still have and use my 70 year old Craftsmen socket set I purchased as a boy. Thanks for sharing your expertise.

[@robertmailhos8159]

Another absolutely amazing classic Tecumseh engine for Mr condon to get up and running again

[@oddbodhobbies2840]

What I like about you is that you aren't a "That'll do " kind of person, if there is a problem no matter how small , you'll chase it down. It's a great work ethic and makes watching you a pleasure.

[@hgradyspruce1975]

Very meticulous and I appreciate that. I have been a mechanic for over 50 years, professionally for about 30 years, retired now but still tinker. If we do it right the first time chances are we don't have to do it twice. Great videos

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@rodneymiddleton9624]

I'm surprised you don't have a small blasting cabinet to make quick work on those rusty tins and other parts. I have one and it is really handy. Nice job Jim!

[@baddad5781]

Long video but I appreciate being able to watch the whole process. I just don't understand the process of how and why the bottom of the valve gets to the point that you have to grind it. Thanks for the video and instruction.

[@jameslarson6555]

I believe the valve seat wears down, which lets the valve sit deeper, reducing the lash.

[@JohnSmith-pl2bk]

The head of the valve slams down into the valve seat...which is the block material. Over time without the lead that used to be in fuel to cushion the valve....it smashes the block material out of the way so the valve actually drops down.... thus the valve clearance tightens up... and the valve stays open... as the gap is tooo small...... no compression... and the engine won't start or run.... Grinding down the valve stem opens up the clearance...cancelling the effect of the recession of the valve seat into the block....

[@DanKoning777]

Good stuff James as always. One objective way to measure if you're "helping someone" is the fact that, as you presented the issues at the start of the video, I began recalling what you did when units had similar issues in past videos. I'm sure I'm not the only one learning/benefiting as you work through each problem. Thanks again. God bless.

[@martynbuzzing3327]

I just bought one of those small impact guns. Amazing time saved when stripping engines.

[@patrickpoulard24]

I have a Tecumseh hmsk80 engine on my snow blower. This engine on this generator is very similar to the hmsk80 except it's a 10 horsepower engine and the hmsk80 is an 8 horsepower. I know from experience that Tecumseh engines can be difficult to work on, especially the valves because leaking is common. The thing is that I love the challenge. Keep up the good work. 😊👍🏿

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@paulmoffat9306]

I use a 1" wood chisel to remove gasket material. The handle gives good control over pressure and angle. I also keep the chisel very sharp by honing on 1200 W/D paper & oil on a glass plate to maintain a fine edge.

[@jimdavis6833]

I prefer a putty knife. It's too easy to damage an aluminum surface with a really sharp edged chisel.

[@RiverratGoRVing]

Great save as always, James. Your posts help many of us that still DYI our equipment. Tks Michael and keep posting.

[@tristanschaper281]

That's a really nice unit! Great idea adding that anti surge spring to the carb! I've worked on a ton of Tecumsehs and yeah, most of them never seem to settle out smoothly unloaded. That's a great running engine.

[@rstephe]

OK, you got me. As you were cleaning the head for reassembly I thought you were not going to lap the valve seats. Great vid, as always.

[@johncourtneidge]

Super nice rebuild! I'm always happy to see good equipment renovated. Nice tip about the anti-surge spring. And, yes, I, also, would have renovated the rusty top cover. Thank-you!

[@joelwatts9042]

I know you added the anti-surge spring, and that solved the problem. But Tecumseh does have a light coil spring around the throttle shaft that takes the free play out of the throttle linkage. Essentially the same thing. I love those old Tecumseh's. Thanks James.

[@jcondon1]

Good point!

[@r8118830]

I have seen James add those anti surge springs to the linkage many times before. I remember the first time he did it. It always works so if there is a light coil spring around the throttle shaft then its effectiveness must diminish with age. Other manufacturers use the anti surge spring and these seem to keep their effectiveness for many years. The anti surge springs can become degraded but only after many years of use.

[@JohnBenson-i8c]

Great job as always. You’re very thorough. Great small engine mechanic keep up the great work.

[@KaldekBoch]

There is a wonderful time of year, and it's when we exit Daylight saving time and James enters it. Ahhh 9pm video release.

[@dandanthemechanicman4678]

You have another “nature of the beast engine”!!! I quoted you on that before I watched the video.

[@blainesayler1514]

Glad to see that this Tecumseh DIDN'T give you trouble. Cheers!

[@iandennis7836]

Ee by 'eck, another jim fix to feast on. Cheers buddy, watched it as soon as I got home from work. Thursdays just wouldn't be the same without you😊

[@charlc]

Amazing Vid, thanks James - love the precision

[@PoopyPants-1955]

Amazing the amount of generators you come across.

[@martinflanagan2506]

Another great video James, it seems all Tecumseh engines always need the exhaust valve stem ground down a few thou and lapped, intakes are always OK. Nature of the beast I guess.

[@constable9793]

I'm not sure if tecumseh recommends wet torque or not, but wet torqueing head bolts might not be advised. Torque is the stretching of a bolt. Adding oil would add about 40% stretch to an otherwise dry bolt. Torque would be the same but the length of the bolt changes. (retired aircraft mechanic)

[@zrkn1]

Repair work A+, Generator quality C+ max. Video 10/10 👍

[@WJCTechyman]

Most of the Tecumseh engines I have come across are typically on snow blowers. I mean, I have had my share of Tecumsehs on lawnmowers as well. Most snow blowers now use some kind of Honda clone, whether it be LCT or PowerMore (with the majority being MTD, Husqvarna or Ariens) and then there are a few Hondas dotted throughout. There are some Briggs powered snow blowers but not many anymore. Lawn mowers are typically again some kind of Honda or its clone variant with some exceptions and Briggs EX engines...an engine that to me looks like it was made to a price point for pure profit and thus cheap and nasty, typically what you see from Briggs. Most of the generators I see around here typically are Champion or Honda, although others are around and are sold in stores...I don't know who makes Energizer but I see those in stores as well.

[@merlepatterson]

Tecumsas rely on those plastic insert bushings to take up governor link slop, but you're correct in adding the spring. It's just good insurance.

[@RS-yj3gn]

James, you do this lovingly and it's always fun to watch. There must be a lot of critters preferring to live in all this gear... I dread the thought that a mouse got mangled in my Honda 11hp....😅 Thanks for all. Cheers Reiner

[@3kids2cats1dog]

Another "short" video. I guess I'll watch it AFTER work. :( Look forward to it.

[@davidschipsi1316]

All the flat heads don’t seem to run as well as the newer overhead valve engines. They are also louder, not sure if it’s the larger muffler on the newer units? It maybe inherit in the flat head design also. Nice save!

[@angusshapland2273]

To be safe with the valve clearance , take the piston just past TDC. For instance BS say 1/4” past TDC. Also, be sure to clear any junk out of the head bolt drillings. In an extreme case the bolt can compress any liquid or solid junk and burst a casting.

[@bertgrau3934]

He did blow out the bolt holes. It's easy to miss something like that. A good reminder none the less. 😊

[@MrTimEarl]

11/64th works for me with I have not ever seen a metric drill bit and been working on mechanical stuff for 50 yrs Thanks again James!! I tend to watch most all the videos you make..

[@r8118830]

I am British, I was brought up with Imperial in High School. By the time I started anything technical a little time after High School we had gone metric. When I did college courses it was all in metric. I have spent 50 years using the metric system. I have not forgotten the imperial system though. If I do work for myself I look at what I am doing and decide which system I want to use. Working on anything commercial here in Wales its all inevitably metric.

[@Itaintnutn]

I have a 10HP Tecumseh that had the exact same issue. Thanks to your video, I was able to fix this myself. Thanks James!

[@Chuck_in_CT]

James... I drill a small block of wood the diameter of the valve stem and clamp it to the grinder fence at a perfect 90 degree and use that as a guide

[@YukonHawk1]

Great machine. Brass float . You don't see, thoughs anymore. That genny will last many more hours thanks to you.

[@stephenreiner1523]

Another well presented video by James Condon.Thank you.

[@larrykelly2838]

Nice job, liked the valve job and adding the spring.

[@jimthesoundman8641]

30:30 Would JB Weld be able to repair something like that?

[@dadskrej5226]

Just a note: If your vertical/horizontal grinder was used to grind/form wood products, be aware the sparks from grinding metal might result in the wood dust catching fire.

[@ron827]

It is interesting that the exhaust valve length changed by 0.012". You might want to consider getting a V-block and clamping it to your belt sander to help keep the valve square to the belt.

[@jcondon1]

Yes, was looking to get one but could not source one fast enough.

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

I'm wondering if someone didn't try replacing the exhaust valve because of some issue but didn't realise that the stem needs to be trimmed to the correct length and after the valve replacement they just gave up. Viewed from the side, the intake valve looked slightly lopsided but I expect that was just the camera angle since it's obviously working just fine. (EDIT: I read some of your replies below and learned about valve seat wear. That's interesting to me.) My own generator saga (thanks, James, for giving me the confidence to even attempt it) is at least looking hopeful. I fitted a new carb and a new fuel petcock and the generator is now running and I'm getting power out of it, but the pilot light refuses to light up which might indicate (hah) a problem with the voltage regulation and the engine is a bit reluctant to start up and needs a few seconds running on choke before it can be turned off, otherwise the engine dies. The voltage seemed to be a bit low and so, without having anything to check the frequency with, I just tried adjusting the speed which brought the voltage up but I'm going to have to wait for a way to check the frequency and get that adjusted correctly. ATM what I'm thinking is that I could add a microphone to a hand held oscilloscope and adjust the engine speed to 3000rpm (50Hz line frequency on this side of the world) using that. Alternatively, I may be able to use the DC output since that should be pulsating 12V DC at either 100Hz or 6000Hz. My aim is to eventually sell this generator for enough money to at least cover the cost of the repairs. Any advice would be welcome, especially about the speed regulation and the reluctance to start or to come off of choke.

[@jcondon1]

Also the are some apps for the phone that can listen to the engine and estimate the RPM. I have not personally tried it, but it should be possible.

[@almclean4835]

Another great video James. Wish I’d found your channel before now 👏👏

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@CharlesManch]

Love your videos!! My son and I watch to see what you fix. Who's the hockey player in your house?!?!

[@jcondon1]

My oldest played when he was younger.

[@CharlesManch]

Most excellent!! 🏒

[@kpdvw]

just love to see James's Critter abatemenmt measures in action witht he rusted coverplate....

[@Collie1228]

Best part of these videos is fast forward filling the gas bottles and oil drain pans. You’re a great editor, my friend.

[@PatrickFaricy]

It's funny, whenever I see the bottles of gas getting close to being full.....I always worry that it is going to spill over the top.

[@camseek6096]

Have the same exact generator since late 1990's, put the anti-surge spring on the carb years back and helped immensely but gained Hz so had to back down on Hz slightly after installation. Same here never been able to get rid of the random slight miss in the combustion. But very faithful generator.

[@fegolem]

I was concerned with the needle seat. But i guess it's good. Probably shrunk which made the float adjustment necessary.

[@Renville80]

Gotta love it when you have one of those 'boom, there it is' moments.

[@RequiredSugar]

Can clamp a piece of angle iron to the belt sander to use as a guide/rest.

[@jeromewhelan6723]

I think someone may have said this before, but the thought occurred to me as I was listening to you diagnose this engine failure, that you sound much like Bob Ross (the painter) in your calming, educational speaking manner. I thoroughly enjoyed and learned as you disassembled the engine during troubleshooting.

[@jcondon1]

Check out the picture Tom made on my community tab.

[@stephenhaslam680]

Reference your comments on the surge spring. The OEM probably left it out because they knew it would end up in your shop as a learning exercise. Another good find James!

[@captain150]

Another Tecumseh, another tight exhaust valve. :) Thinking step 1 on these engines may become check valve adjustment even before checking the carb!

[@JohnSmith-pl2bk]

The head of the valve slams down into the valve seat...steel valve insert but aluminium block material. Over time without the lead that used to be in fuel to cushion the valve....it smashes the block material out of the way so the valve seat actually drops down.... thus the valve clearance tightens up... and the valve stays open... as the gap is too small...... no compression... and the engine won't start or run.... Grinding down the valve stem opens up the clearance...cancelling the effect of the recession of the valve seat into the block....

[@AnwarKhan-dw8cj]

Kept saying stop on that exhaust bolt,for a moment tought it would have stripped ,easy one today James,looking forward to the next one

[@Vinny-i8o]

Well done James 👍

[@shanwar9844]

Always the best and then adding an anti-surge spring to make it better than stock. Manufacturers should watch your channel!!!!!!!

[@demetriosa7646]

Haven’t watched yet but I know these Tecumseh’s like to fight you James 😂

[@DustyRusty81]

I have this same Generator, the on/off switch tape on the shroud is a good Idea, I'm always forgetting witch way is on

[@richardphelan8414]

Another great informative and interesting video on a valve adjust for a Tecumseh engine ,to bad they didn't use adjustable lifters

[@loucinci3922]

Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing

[@johnclyne6350]

107 volts at full load would be considered low voltage coming from a power company. The minimum they provide is roughly 113 volts per hot leg and as high as 123 volts. Not sure how appliances will act? I know motors that are not provided their correct voltage with draw more current. Shortening their life span. Great content again! I look forward to each & every video you post.

[@JimNeville]

Thanks for the great videos and tips. I was given a great mower that would not start. I 1st looked at the carb as you do. FROZEN, Dint even venture a clean as a Amazon replacement is 18 bucks Thanks 👍👍👍

[@wjodf8067]

in 1999 got that generator alwys drain tank and carb and change oil after 5 hours always has that sneeze miss until under load that muffler is actually a sparkarrestor that generator does easily run an oil fired boiler and later a deep well than a bit for the refrigerator but it likes it fuel the motto back then wa "2000 you are ready or you hope you are" Great video

[@outlet6989]

Hi James. Thanks for producing an informative and helpful video. I think my comment might interest you. After having a mess when changing oil, I found a better, less messy way. I purchased a small vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. I took a one-gallon glass jar with a metal lid and attached two threaded barb fittings. I next attached two flexible hoses to the barbs. I connected one to the vacuum pump and the second much longer hose into the oil filler tube whenever I did an oil change.

[@dprrn]

I haven't finished the video yet, but just wanted to drop a thank you comment, I recently got a 2kw inverter generator that was hunting on eco idle, was able to get the idle jet out, cleaned, and re assembled the gen and fired it up to a smooth idle.

[@donprater2754]

Thanks for the journey.

[@Mole7778]

You might get a small V block to set the stem of the valve in while rotating it against the belt sander.

[@jcondon1]

Yes, I was looking at those, but couldn’t get one in time

[@andrewgrace4410]

Very nice fix James 😊

[@dreadnought2024]

I need to get me an ultra sonic. Prob save me a lot of time.... They look like they work well.

[@philliphall5198]

It’s really a time saver and it cleans well with dawn dish soap and water 😊

[@markanderson2904]

Not just a time-saver. It cleans better.

[@luuk-out-below9804]

Nice one James!

[@nighthawkj30A4]

Had my Tecumseh engine since 1998 when it was new. Its on my channel.

[@caffieellis4877]

That was nice that the valve springs had the keeper incorporated into the valve spring retainers

[@jcondon1]

Makes it a lot easier

[@cocolopo691]

From buenos aires argentina congratulations for your videos muy english Is so bad,but i learn so much with your videos i like so much the small engines

[@rlwoods61]

I have a older open frame generator. I have to leave it on "choke" for about a minute or two to allow for the old engine and carb to start controlling the engine properly. After that,things are fine!

[@robertmcintyre3405]

You should weld a small piece of angle iron to the new belt grinder to keep the valve tru.

[@mjg263]

Great tip about the governor linkage spring, I’ll have to remember that one!

[@peterclark6290]

That slow start was what we use to call a 'cold-blooded' engine. They sound just like that till heat spreads to some weird unknown spot (inlet manifold?) and its internally happy.

[@JohnSmith-pl2bk]

You compare that weird long inlet manifold to the straight into the head type carb setup and there's your answer... that long intake runner is dropping fuel out onto the cold tube surface until the heat from the head can travel back along it... Remember when cars had heated air snorkels leading from the exhaust manifold to provide heat to cold carbs when starting...and then the thermostatic valve that controlled the heated air shut off when the engine heated up... and the VW Beetle had a long runner from the single central carb to the heads at each side of the engine block...that had an integral tube with exhaust gases flowing through it to stop very bad fuel fall out when cold...? (The tube that doesn't get heat when cheap exhaust headers are fitted and the VW engine stumbles for ages warming up...)

[@geoffmolyneux9173]

When you remove the heads, just take a fine file and clean up the head bolts holes mating flanges. You will find the aluminum will have high spots. And head may not quite have the right head gasket compression.

[@Maurice1151]

Another awesome video mate. Totally relate to Imperial measurements being an older bugger that I am. I’ve just returned from Montreal and miss my Tim Hortons coffee! Let’s not talk about Poutine!!!

[@Ram14250]

Great video James!!

[@jamesmdeluca]

Greetijng: When replacingmthe fuel exit tun-off valve, use your uttilitty knife to slice the bushing radially to avoid the hassel of pulling it out.

[@kenjones4139]

Another great video! I really enjoy the work you do. Hie are you liking the Simple Green Pro HD in the ultrasonic? It's my go-to for carbs and it hasn't let me down yet!

[@jcondon1]

So far it has worked well.

[@sdwputnam]

Great job, once again.

[@TheDamowalshe]

Nice one James, very informative, always wondered what those little springs did.

[@peterouellette3874]

Nice going, James

[@WarrenKimpel]

THANKS for another nice video.

[@Thinker2-truth]

Great Video, thank you! 🙂 Wish you did Cummins Onan.

[@gregb76]

Great job James you get it right all the time.

[@francislang5075]

nice work james

[@Rorschach1024]

It is schroedinger's carb, it will both be dirty and clean until you open it and collapse the waveform.

[@v-g-z3689]

Not too sure if many people watching this here know about that cat experiment ;)

[@lucilleking7495]

But Sheldon explained it in Big Bang Theory, LOL Gord

[@r8118830]

The cat is dead already is it.

[@v-g-z3689]

@@lucilleking7495 Oh, well that explains it, I only knew it from a scientific context.

[@PatrickFaricy]

Hey James, Could you demonstrate in a future video how to use a feeler gauge to set the gap on a coil? In your previous videos you have used a business card when setting the gap on coils and I understand that it is easier to do it this way. When setting the gap on a coil comes up in the future, please consider demonstrating how to use a feeler gauge, I assume like you use when gapping valves. Even though it will likely be a lot harder to do, I would appreciate seeing how this was done, you know, old school. Great channel!

[@jcondon1]

It is harder. Best to do with two feeler gauges one on each side of the coil.

[@CARLOSTREUIL]

Another enjoyable and educational video. I noticed that you use the same type of razor blades that I do for projects around the shop. I have found that the blades can often be resharpened with a couple of strokes on a 1000 grit sharpening stone to make the edge as good or better than new. I also have used a light mist of spray glue to one side of stacked gaskets to keep them aligned during assembly. I don't know if this is an approved practice buy it has helped me with my fat fingers and bolt hole alignment during assembly. I would be curious if you have used something of the kind for multiple gasket reassembly. Thanks again for what you do.