My First Custom Suit - 10 Years Later (Review)

Let's check out Raphael's very first custom-made suit, what made him buy it 10 years ago, and what else he plans to look into in the future: gentl.mn/custom-suit-review-1...
#custom #suit #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ White Cherry Blossoms Boutonniere: gentl.mn/white-cherry-blossoms
→ Pocket Square Classic White Irish Linen: gentl.mn/white-irish-linen-po...
→ Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Socks: gentl.mn/navy-yellow-stripe-s...
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Custom Suit Review: gentl.mn/kyle-custom-suit
→ "Custom" Myth or Magic?: gentl.mn/custom-menswear2
→ Ranking 54 Suit Brands: gentl.mn/rtw-suit-brands1
→ How To Wear A Vest: gentl.mn/how-to-wear-vest
→ Wool "Super Numbers Explained": gentl.mn/wool-super-numbers-e...
→ How To Iron Suits: gentl.mn/iron-suit-jacket
→ ISAIA - Is It Worth It?: gentl.mn/isaia-review
→ Winchester Shirt Guide: gentl.mn/shirts-winchester1
→ Hermes Neck Ties - Is It Worth It?: gentl.mn/hermes-ties1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Sven Raphael Schneider & Jack Collins
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Oxxford Clothes
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00:00 First Custom Suit Introduction
Believe it or not, this video has been shaped by you guys! During our past live streams, we got a lot of comments and requests to show off some of our very first custom-made clothing pieces. And we thought it was a great idea!
00:45 What Type of “Custom” is the Suit?
It’s a (Type of custom) suit from Oxxford. We’ve previously discussed the word “custom” is an umbrella term. So I want to be completely clear with you in saying that it’s not a readily available off-the-rack suit.
02:50 Suit Jacket Details: Navy Blue, Single-Breasted, Two Buttons
I ordered it in early 2012 directly at the factory. At the time, Oxxford was advertising on our website. I had a contact and she invited me to come to Oxxford and get measured for a suit. Of course, I happily obliged and went there; got the full factory tour. And the hat cutter, whose name I can’t recall anymore, took my measurements.
06:28 Suit Trouser Details: Pleated, Cuffed, Side Adjusters
09:46 What I Would Have Done Differently
At the time, I had really high expectations for bespoke because, after all, it was the holy grail. You could decide on anything, and the garment would always promise a superior fit.
13:33 Overall Thoughts
Overall, it’s not as soft as my jackets by Isaia, for example, and it’s a combination of the coarser fabric and a stiffer interlining. But, for a suit like this, which is a bit more formal, I think it strikes the exact right balance.
Do I wear the suit a lot? Unfortunately, not a whole lot. The pants get a lot more use than the jacket, but simply because there are fit issues.
15:14 Conclusion
So, that’s my very first custom suit experience. Didn’t turn out that great after all. You might wonder, “How is that possible?” and “If you spend all that money and the first suit doesn’t turn out that well, why would you even try to go for it?”
Well, in reality, your first bespoke garment or bespoke shoe is rarely the best, typically, there’s always room for improvement, but you can still wear and enjoy it.
15:57 Outfit Rundown

[@TheRockefellas]

I'm 15 years of age, and I've always been in love with dressing nice and being a proper gentleman. And I was always confused on how to dress as one, so when I found this channel it was like finding gold at the end of the rainbow. Definitely help me abunch, thanks!

[@gentlemansgazette]

Our pleasure to be with you! #oswaldformayor ;)

[@davidkatzinger467]

I bet a lot of people walking by were asking themselves why there is a guy in the streets caressing his suit.

[@41dhos]

And walking in slow motion

[@kesetokaiba]

This isn't a new channel; the neighbors are probably used to it by now xD

[@41dhos]

The neighbors are like, “I guess the indoor studio is busy right now” or they go, “oh no, the leaves are becoming picturesque. Expect Raphael and crew to start walking around while caressing themselves any minute.”

[@AthamAldecua]

Hahaha, the excessive caressing always gets on my nerves xD

[@kesetokaiba]

@@AthamAldecua lol It doesn't bother me much - it is just their way of "doing something" (like a self preening) and showing off the fabric/drape. If it wasn't a video on the clothing, then I could see how this could become overused and come across as a bit vain though.

[@holdenbauer1255]

I actually have a charcoal chalk stripe from the 1940s by Oxford. Definitely one of my favorite garments. Super happy to hear they are still in business.

[@baileyross7528]

I think the ability to get multiple fittings and alterations is the biggest advantage of getting a suit made to measure or bespoke. Definitely a must do if you are going to spend the additional cost vs off the rack.

[@mcomeslast]

I get it! I’m learning tailoring now and have 2 jackets (1 tailored and 1 a cardigan jacket) and neither will be perfect. I’m learning so much that my 2nd and thirds will be much better both because I’ve learned more skills but also I am learning what I do and don’t like. I would recommend anyone going for a first custom suit or dress, go all in on the experience but don’t go all in with the most expensive fabrics the first time. You will be learning so much about fit and what you like. Get the dream fabrics after you and your tailor have worked out your likes and dislikes.

[@Standoff96]

Good advice

[@cryanc]

Youre absolutely right. Took to my 4th to really get all things right.

[@marianotorrespico2975]

WELL DONE! | Your inky blue suit remains quite wearable and stylish; lose a few kilos, and you are back in action!

[@dalehruszecky9085]

I've just ordered my first Made to Measure suit, thanks to this channel I'm finally upgrading my wardrobe in an educated way, thank you so much for your channel and contribution to menswear! Plus I've ordered a lot of socks from your store I can't wait for! :)

[@burritodog3634]

from where? i might get one from indochino which is where kyle got his

[@MuhammadAli-qh8tg]

I need socks... I own about 60 pairs but they are all black

[@gentlemansgazette]

Sounds fantastic, Dale! And thank you for your custom - which pair are you most excited to wear? :)

[@gentlemansgazette]

@@MuhammadAli-qh8tg We can help you out with some essentials in this list! www.gentlemansgazette.com/essential-socks-for-men/?

[@dalehruszecky9085]

@@gentlemansgazette Honestly, all of them on rotation! ;) They all look gorgeous, just will depend on mood for which color that day.

[@baldner4488]

It’s very nice to finally see your verdict, it’s very very common for people to not get fully satisfied with their first bespoke suit. Greetings from Brazil!

[@bigbadbith8422]

May I congratulate you on being able to fit into that suit 10 years on!

[@michaelkores6860]

I would fit in a 10 year old suit, breathing or moving are the true challenges.

[@mtvdvm4940]

Oh that’s is such soap box of mine. I have a custom western saddle I had made by an amazing artisan in Graham, Texas. Took me months to find a saddle maker who actually made a CUSTOM saddle and not a saddle with some details you pick when you check option boxes they give you. I called saddle makers form Brownsville, Texas to Bozeman, Montana and all of these so called custom makers were just customizing their pre made saddled. True bespoke is so rare these days and worth every penny no matter if it’s saddles, suits, hats, or anything else.

[@regcrowder9010]

This was a very thoughtful video. It gave me some good ideas 💡 Thank you 😁

[@brandonbragg7901]

Love the channel. Good advice and very well done. Thank you.

[@HumbertoClaudino]

Congratulations for another video with valuable information and greetings from Brazil.

[@andrewharris3965]

My first and only (so far) was done in Naples, Italy for my wedding. Tailor was incredible and I had 3 fittings before picking it up.

[@plusplusplusplusp]

This reminds me of my experience Raphael. Just three years ago, partly inspired by your channel I was measured for my first custom suit. I got carried away with the excitement and I didn't identify that the final product was far too tight. I don't like wearing it for that reason. My other two suits were off-the-rack and altered according to my body, and are much more comfortable. In fact, they look better because they don't make me look like a sausage in a sausage skin (even though they have minor fit issues elsewhere). I won't make the same mistake with tightness next time I get a bespoke or custom suit.

[@ivanlouisjbarrantes1254]

I thoroughly enjoyed this video and I think Raphael's navy suit still looks fantastic and classic in its stylistic details proving that the classics would never look outdated. Its unfortunate that the arms of the jacket are quite constricting because otherwise the suit looks very neat in appearance. I would very much like to have a very similar bespoke navy suit to Raphael's including most of the stylistic details and colour in the near future (and hopefully similar suits in the same vein) with some adjustments accounting for my short physique, personal tastes, and a lighter and more breathable fabric for the generally warmer weather in my country!

[@ravipeiris4388]

Great video, thank you.

[@morganwin350]

My first was somewhere in between custom and made to measure as the small mens shop was having custom sport coat/overcoats made but they were just starting to design them and they were only going to make them in a standard set of sizes, so mine used the general design but was made for my size and has custom details that no other coat has. Fit is good a touch modern which is not my personal preference but given the unique style which is kind of a current take on a frock coat it works better than the more classic fit I was trying to go for.

[@trevorhageman12]

As a retailer who works with Coppley, I have to say, I feel that it's one of the best quality:price point makes on the market!

[@alejandrodono]

Could you make a video on how many pants/trouser a man should own? Or like the 10 essentials. You guys did a great job with suits and shirts but I feel that one is missing! Have already seen how they should fit and guides about chinos the question is…what are the one you would buy first if you would start your wardrobe again? Thanks again for this great content!

[@mbojimore8710]

My custom 3rd time order armhole also tight ...dont know why doent follow the measurment..all the best man👍

[@lucindasweden5778]

Many Malvolivo out there Twelve Nights, oh how can I assure You look marvelious with yellow socks lol

[@maisumthiago8615]

I was really wondering about the green shade you choose for the inner part of your jacket. Greetings from Brazil!

[@caviardirect9411]

Cool 10 year review!

[@Bobby-ei7xp]

That tie is 11/10 👌🏼

[@792p]

You diction is excellent and your self-confidence is ravishing. Also, the expression on your face is a joy to watch.

[@Aggnog]

I would expect a bespoke suit to have some reserve fabric to allow for alterations as the wearer's weight fluctuates. If that was the case the sleeves could have been altered later on at least a little bit, very strange that this is not the case.

[@md.mizanurrahman3008]

Nice to see

[@TeamNoAffiliation]

That suit came out far better than the suits I had made in Bahrain during deployment. But, I made some mistakes, listening to friends who didn't know anything about fashion in general. Sleeves were cut too long, pant's were made too big. One suit I actually want tailored to fit me better, as it's a nice English green tweed jacket and pants, with a grey tweed vest.

[@E46_Lenker]

Raphael please make a Look Book/Video, I admire your style.

[@Transformyourmind1]

Love your videos. The volume level of the saxophone is very high compared to the videos. Thanks for all the amazing detail you share. Truly amazing!

[@zaco-km3su]

Live and learn i guess. One thing to learn from this is that you should always try on for the last time a bespoke suit or a suit made to your size.

[@BillyJeans653]

Thanks for the review. I’m curious if I’m the only one that has felt that sometimes the tailor almost tries to tell you how your tailored clothing should fit during the final Fitting, and if anyone has advice on how to be a gentleman to the tailor without insulting there craft and wanting something changed like the length of my Slacks.

[@dirtywaterpj_dj]

I do buy two pairs of trousers with one jacket myself. I started out buying suits from charity shops and noticed that there was a surplus of suit jackets over full suits available. Two plus two equals four, I thought.

[@jonathonshanecrawford1840]

How to make your lapel ready for a Boutonnière _(lapel flower)_, i.e. that stitching that helps keep the flower in place _(not moving around too much)?_

[@sdn4134]

Ralph the suit is amazing

[@danielnorrgrann1180]

what do you think about the silk scarf that you can wear with black tie?

[@alexrad9570]

My best pieces is from the trift store, 5 bucks maximum. Edward Green shoes, Hackett 150s suit, Eton shirt and so on.

[@jgb0017]

My first bespoke suit experience was very good. The fit was great. Unfortunately, it suffered from my own error. I got it made not long after I returned from Afghanistan and was quite a bit leaner than usual. Within a year or two, I went back to my normal weight, about a chest and waist size larger, and the suit no longer fits. I’ve remedied that ever since by making sure I am at my normal weight before getting anything made.

[@zakarysouvanlasy3670]

Do you have any thoughts on bespoke suits from tailors in "non-traditional" (meaning outside the US, UK, Italy, and etc) countries? For example Vietnam, Thailand, Panama, and Hungary

[@xingxing5463]

Nice.

[@Alexander-dr4mw]

Gotta love GG, shile Kirby gives you gloating praise, Raphael keeps it honest and real.

[@candicew306]

I’m curious… is the jacket cut to where you could take it back and have it altered to fit better in the shoulders? It’s a lovely suit and seems such a shame that fit would further limit wearing it. I’m not a seamstress by any means but I do knit and know I’m always extremely conscientious when making a sweater for someone else. Thank you for the look into menswear as well. I found your site after taking an interest in Fountain pens and have stayed on with the intent to share advice with my husband. When solicited. Thank you for your time!

[@gentlemansgazette]

I think it would make a fun video project. Bespoke garments typically have more reserve fabric than otr stuff

[@candicew306]

@@gentlemansgazette I agree! I’d watch that one ☺️

[@harrybate3620]

Hey GG. I'm looking into getting my first bespoke suit but there's one thing I'm indecisive on. I love the look of wide peak lapels (Not overly wide but just slightly bigger than medium) but I'm worried it's too bold and will also mean I can't use the jacket as a separate would appreciate advice. Thank you

[@themoderndandy713]

My thoughts - it depends entirely on your work environment. In most situations, I'd say it's probably fine, but in the world of high-level corporate culture, where cufflinks somehow show that you're a bad person and a pocket square can make your boss have an emotional breakdown, I'd say stick to a notch lapel. For the most part, assuming you're either in an accepting, non-judgemental work environment or the boss, it's probably perfectly fine. People overhype the idea that everyone's judging every detail of your wardrobe, and assuming you're genuine about it and warm, you can easily get away with dressing up when others dress down. As for using it as a seperate, I don't see any issue, unless it's a pinstripe.

[@Hotspur62]

I have two bespoke DBs (a 2 piece and a sport coat) and the lapels are 4.5 inches at its widest...my inspiration was Lapo Elkann :-). Even though I'm only 5'8 it doesn't look out of proportion. Just make sure you pair it with a spread collar shirt and no skinny ties.

[@msilverz]

Are you happy with the height of the gorge? It seems slightly high, especially for someone who appreciates a more classic style.

[@GreenBlueWalkthrough]

Honestly that sounds like you had the same trouble I had with nikes, my tux and sport jacket... Which is a long story of "I thought I new my size." Which considering I now know my size 13s and 50r atleast for now oddly I'm still growing at 28 years old and it cost me way less money to find out. I guess I'm just going to stick to "Cheap off the rack stuff" then mess with custom as I'm lucky enough to have porportions that some clothes can just fit on and I have a habit of making things look good. That said you can find good stuff used or even on amazon if you know were to look but I will miss out on something that would only exsit if I got it bispoque.

[@nibbleniks2320]

Question: I've noticed that when men in suits are seated (usually in interviews on video) their coats bunch at the collar. Is the coat fitted correctly? Or just the drape of a coat/jacket? Too much padding or not enough? Posture? Thanks!

[@Aldroid151]

I think sometimes it may be due to them not un buttoning their suit jacket, resulting in bunching and it rising up.

[@theaussiewhinger]

It also has to do with the position of the arm holes where the sleeves join the body of the suit. If the holes are too big or too low, the suit will rise in the way you describe.

[@truthreigns7]

Great. No offense but Raphael is my favorite Gentleman's Gazette person.

[@keithdubose2150]

How much did it costs?

[@ForTheLoveOfSuits]

Shame about the fit but that is an extremely sophisticated suit for your first bespoke.

[@nicorusso1526]

I work as a teacher and as such need functional clothes that allow me to move around all day. What do you recommend for a nice teacher outfit that isn’t too much but still looks good and professional

[@cyanidelizards]

Three-piece. Tweed and corduroy are academia centric. Don't forget you can pull off short-sleeved button up collar shirts, instead of rolling up longsleeves all the time. A vest waistcoat is the most important, keeping your tie tucked & meeting your belt buckle where it belongs. Enjoy

[@andrewb5149]

I got my Jumpstart in style from my favorite history teacher. He had a revolving door of clothes. From what he recommended at the time, get suits in colors that you like but don't wear them as complete suits. He never wore a 2 piece suit because it would be too formal for school. He would wear a suit jacket or sport coat with more casual pants, or a waistcoat with more formal trousers. He would also always wear a tie, and try to coordinate it with the unit (Egypt themed or one with the vitruvian man when talking about the renaissance). Personally if you are in the appropriate climate, I would start with a tweed sport jacket with trousers that feel appropriate.

[@Nekromant1513]

Depends on the school and the context. Cable knit tennis/cricket sweaters( or a tennis vest in summer) are somewhat "dressy", without being boring. Wear them with button down shirt or a simple white polo and you can use ties, without them looking to formal. Or you choose unlined jersey or cotton blazers. They are also easy to combine and the material makes them less formal and functional. Chinos, Penny loafers or boat shoes according to taste

[@farranfullilove751]

Can you help, I’m an og who can’t stop working. 80% of my time I’m in a suite and tie, or jacket. My wife sees to it I’m on time with the right tie. My problem is off duty, yes I’m a deputy sheriff and I carry a gun all the time. All my shirts I wear pulled out to caver my gun. Can you help with some dress wear for me and others like me👊🏾🙏🏾👏🏾👍🏾😎

[@Aldroid151]

Maybe an underarm holster, like those classic undercover agents wear? 😎

[@caesarortega5249]

In the winter and fall carrying is easy (I'm in Arizona) The summer I usually wear an untucked white or blue linen shirt and appendix carry. I suppose if I just had to be dressy and it's kinda hot, I would wear a vest with the sleeves rolled up and the vest would cover it.

[@carbonado2432]

keep your gun in a box of roses

[@mmartin8877]

Sean Jean green?

[@lyontanisawesome1258]

👍👍👍👍

[@LiamColeman-Halla-yq2jl]

How much do Gentleman's Gazette hosts make annually?

[@MrDanielWP]

So, Rafael is from Brazil and Germany? Interesting.

[@VictorHugo-pr7fr]

o cara todo brasileirinho cara, eu achei muito legal

[@dakotarayprice]

I have a vintage Oxford suit in dark blue i got at good will

[@santoshtalk2]

👌👍

[@joshmiller7777]

I am yet to purchase my first custom item but, given my employer, I think it's choose a nice Airbus blue for a suit :)

[@pedrocols]

I had bad experience with Suit Supply. Granted, they are not bespoke but after 3 trips of 4 hours round trip at the end I told them to ship me the the suit and I wasn't totally happy.

[@Paul-dz7xi]

Being a custom suit, I'm sure you had plenty of material to let it out to make it perfect.

[@danbee415]

If I ever got a made to measure suit it has to be green. In a muted green colour. With either patch pockets, or standard flap pocket. And it would most likely have peak lapels too. Double breasted too probably!

[@shepiro]

Didn’t know your parents are from BR. Do you speak Portuguese? You have no accent at all. Im from br and a subscriber of your channel for quite a few years.

[@JoJoJoker]

Buy a few custom suits. The lessons learned will save you a lot of grief when it comes to finding a wife or buying a house.

[@dalehruszecky9085]

Hahaha this was a funny comment for some reason

[@JoJoJoker]

@@dalehruszecky9085 cheap wisdom, coming to you from a married homeowner and former custom clothing salesman. Custom clothing teaches the universal value of the saying “measure twice, cut once”.

[@914Rocky]

My pre video comment. I bought two bespoke suits two years ago. I’m not 7 pounds heavier and both are uncomfortable. That’s the problem with bespoke. Any weight loss or gain and poof they aren’t worth the $$. Should I get them tailored every year?

[@lucindasweden5778]

I will tell You later what I think of mens costymes, tailoring if supered very nice and good investments, scilled handcrafts always welcome,

[@TheTerryE]

I'm curious what you mean by "custom." I know of only 3 types of suits: ready to wear, made to measure, and bespoke. Thanks.

[@SteelRoninTT]

He meant bespoke. He chose every detail on it and they made it based on his size and imperfections

[@insanezain2]

Werner Zieeeegler

[@DanielLopez-ow3fh]

👍👔👏

[@lucindasweden5778]

Wich era do we women like , hmm seeining a guy we adore who can that be?I am still in for Robin Hood,

[@Cedrus1952]

Classic suits are great! The new suits with the middle buttoned up and ties sticking out above your belt is just awful! Crazy how people follow fads and just look terrible doing it.

[@chipmarshall185]

Preach brother Preach !!!

[@Orcsimer]

Third

[@danielcuevas5899]

Tommy Hilfiger- Is it worth it ?

[@RAA10382]

Tommy is okay. Ralph is better.

[@dknight7981]

Fourth

[@batman2199]

I've found these videos to be very quiet. The edited noises (eg. the intro) are normal volume, but the speech needs to be balanced

[@manolokonosko2868]

I would get one but where I live, Florida USA, it's always hot and humid, and unless you work in a field in which your position requires you wear a suit, opportunities to wear one are few and far in between. Therefore, even if I got the best bespoke suit for free, it would be wasted on me.

[@kingjwm57]

first

[@rockypower5168]

And?

[@dalehruszecky9085]

second

[@rockypower5168]

Was that necessary?

[@qarhsi]

things that i do not like: - the belly of the lapel, esp on someone who isn't necessarily slim - the super high gorge of the lapels - the high buttoning point - the slanted pockets - button side tabs - button fly

[@digitaldew]

Question for everyone. Who are you inspired by seriously? I'll go first ( no order) - Jocko, Pat McNamara, Jordan Peterson, Tim Ferriss, Vigilance Elite, Ed Calderon, Gracie Family, Robert Greene, Alux, Hubermanlab, Tom Bilyeu, Terrence Popp, George Gammon, Robert Kiyosaki, Gentleman's Gazette, Ken McElroy, Lewis Howes, Snordster, Real Men Real Style, Think Media Podcast Among others....

[@holapez3909]

te copias de Gentleman's Gazette En Español

[@singerbuilding6787]

Es sarcasmo verdad? En tal caso que no, este es el canal original.

[@gottfriedj1647]

This suit is the best I’ve seen you wear. I’m not related to that business in any way. This suit is the best you’ve worn bro. I don’t like any of that other trash that you like from the thrift stores. Nobody wears any of the stuff you guys show

[@joelewis8770]

you're bigger. suit's tighter.

[@waltersickinger263]

Lapel notch is too high..Drop notch to region of collar points.

[@MrCamel2humps]

You could lose 25 pounds and it would fit much better 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@Yourdad-kf9oj]

Rapheal you are not in your perfect shape. You need to work out. You look so bad. Plz workout it is also good for your health.

[@jojag5]

Part of the appeal of this channel is that they employ real people who are passionate about menswear. It's not just models. It's easy for a traditionally handsome man with a 6-pack to look good in practically anything and buy stuff off the rack. If you want to see videos of handsome guys showing off their fashion, there's 10,000 of them on instagram.

[@carbonado2432]

...they dont have ONE normal guy there at all. all but one is too gfat

[@staycasual7203]

Gets a custom fitted suit…..that has trousers that could fit your whole family in….this is NOT tailored!!!!!!