Dial in your SV08: 19 aspects of the Sovol SV08 - A Comprehensive Test and Klipper Calibration Guide

[@tacohockey5654]

SOLVOL SHOULD PUT YOU ON THEIR PAYROLL. Your Sovol videos are fantastic. I can't imagine trying to tackle my soon to arrive SV08 without your help. You are now my "go to" guy for anything Sovol.

[@Mr_Pewpy_But-Whole]

10:25 i did my electrical engineering senior design project on this. ADAPT We created parametric design for equally dividing existing heater beds, create an aftermarket drop-in replacement. we did the ender 6 and it worked.

[@nitroglicerine2k]

From what I understood from other reviewers Sovol should be using the load-cell at the back before each print to do the bed leveling (just like Voron)., and not rely the induction probe. That should be used only for gantry-leveling. Basically the Kipper print start macro from Voron needs to be copied to the sv08 so that both the load cell and the nozzle cleaning brush get used correctly.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Yes, that should be researched. Afaik those who looked into this found the load cell to be less reliable than the inductive probe. Both can be easily replaced with higher quality ones, I think I will replace the probe first, as you could see, the M12 used in my T300 (and other 2 printers as well) produced 3× smaller range between samples: 0.0075 vs 0.0206. An M12 probe costs like $10 (but I already have a spare)

[@ianroberts8371]

Thank you so much for this information! I was having under extrusion issues like you were and after changing the config setting several times with no luck, I realized the extruder tension knob was loose🙄 I got it tightened correcting and tuned the rotation value. You're a lifesaver! lol

[@abitnutz6747]

I have mine on a 24"x24" 3/4" slate stone. It fits perfectly. I have all my printers on heavy pavers of one kind or another.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

That helps for input shaping

[@AFBoyd6]

Dude, you do a better job of helping the community than the actual company. the whole Z-offset code you put in there. LIFESAVER. I couldn't get it to level for the life of me and print decent because the GUI wasn't saving the settings no matter what I did...

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I am glad I could help :)))

[@christopherklein3829]

Me too. No Chance to print anything. No bed adhesion. A horror. Can you help me with the Code? Where? Didnt find the video or something else.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@christopherklein3829 Bed adhesion is super good on the included PEI sheet. If you are having trouble make sure to remove any oils by washing in the sink with dishsoap, and wiping it with Isopropy alcohol between prints. The other common culprit to bad bed adhesion is wrong z-offset. Please research how a correct first layer should look. Basically the lines should touch but not overlap in the first layer. The third usual problem is wrong printing temps, but the stock presets have them correctly in the Orca Slicer presets. If all these are correct and you are still having trouble, try switching to a different brand of filament, some filaments are just bad. You did get a 200g spool of Sovol PLA with the machine, Sovol PLA is good quality, I never had bed adhesion problems with it. If the provided white PLA prints well, you can order more (see links in the description of the video). Find the links to mentioned macros in the description as well, and a useful video to watch next: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpS1mmWoZs9qgac

[@christopherklein3829]

​@@gerGoPrint3Di am printing always petg. 240/70 on my cr10s and copy these to orca. Yes mine Problem is the offset. First layer is more than ugly. The setting from printer menu didnt work for me.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@christopherklein3829 Always heat soak before probing / printing! Use my macro. In the next video of the series I am also showing you how to change probing/start macros to use higher bed temps for non-PLA materials: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6fEZ6N4nKqla68

[@steveo101112]

Thank you so much! These are the details of the printer I was hoping to see in other videos. Looking forward to the probe upgrade :)

[@ksweens01]

Great video! Please give us an update on the probing accuracy with the new M12 probe, as well as the sound dB with your upgraded quieter fan when they arrive. Looking forward to your future testing!

[@leetpg]

I personally done the M12 probe upgrade. Significantly better. Significantly more consistent. I am still however thinking that a mechanical probe is likely more reliable. The klicky. Anything electronic will always be prone to heat effected variance. But in all honesty, it means almost nothing for a 3D printer. A fraction of a hair diameter won't have much negative effect.

[@azpaulers]

Hi gerGo. I just want to say that your videos are amazing. I have an Sv08 that I cant get to work. For a minute it seemed that it was printing perfectly but then I attempted to update the hot end and now it can not even preprint the diagram after an Z offeset calibration. Benchys look like spaghetti. I have re flashed the emmc and tried a firmware refresh with 2.3.3 but I have had no luck. I ordered a new hot end from Sovol and I am hoping that helps. Right now I do not know it if its settings or mechanics. Anyways, You are my go to for all thinks sovol. Thank you so much your the time you spend with helping people like me get the most out of these machines.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

From your description it sounds like a mechanical issue, maybe you missed something re-assembling the nozzle/hotend. Have you seen my most recent video on this exact topic? Maybe you could take it apart and re-install it as you wait for the replacement hotend from Sovol → kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYDOn62tjaieqZY

[@azpaulers]

Yes I did. And I feel like I installed the new nozzle exactly you did. I made sure to apply the thermal paste to the heating element any the thermostat wire. I also put thermal paste on the stem like you suggested The nozzle I installed was the new copper nozzle that allows you to interchange tips. I even tried putting the secondary nozzle that comes with the Sv08 in there and it’s still doing the same thing.

[@azpaulers]

kzbin.infoBv6yNixNXcE?si=-X_gkxBGwh9rW8EW

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@azpaulers The two-part nozzle is trickier! I promised to make a dedicated video on it, I'd suggest using the stock nozzle in the beginning.

[@azpaulers]

kzbin.infoBv6yNixNXcE?si=-X_gkxBGwh9rW8EW

[@jonahmack1836]

Thanks for making these videos -- really well explained and the detail is super useful for someone getting into their SOVOL SV08

[@Mynameis-y1h-Ka]

A really good video, this deserve a subscription

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thank you :)

[@brandonhicks7549]

Filament shrinkage depends on the filament, so should be handled in the slicer settings for that filament.

[@rickardbarboza7238]

You are amazing and this channel is the best. Thank you for your answer and all the work you are doing for the community. Your response time is out of this world!...lol.

[@szmajli]

Örülök hogy egyre többen vannak magyarok is a youtube 3D nyomtatós közösségében, akik nem csak a consumer felhasználókhoz szólnak hanem azokhoz akik profi szinten szeretnék űzni ezt a hobbit. Köszönöm, a remek videókat a nyomtatóval kapcsolatban. Remélem hamarosan megérkezik az általam rendelt masina és én is elmélyülhetek a fejlesztések végtelen lehetőségeiben. A hosszú távú tervem, hogy egy toolchanger rendszert alakítok ki rajta. Nagyon szeretem a multi-material nyomtatásokat, a Bambulab X1-esemen sok színes modellt nyomtatok, viszont annak a rendszernek az a hátránya, hogy rengeteg hulladék keletkezik. Ennek szeretnék alternatívát adni és egy ilyen nyílt forráskódú nyomtató pont jó alap lehet. Csak így tovább!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I'd also like to try multi-color printing, and the waste of AMS really holds me back from even adding an ERCF. I am curious about your toolchanger update, please keep us posted! (A többszínű nyomtatásba én is szívesen belekóstolnék, és valóban az AMS pazarlása tart vissza akár egy ERCF hozzáadásától is. Kíváncsi vagyok mire jutsz egy toolchanger update-el!)

[@winandd8649]

@@gerGoPrint3D 'Teaching tech' channel is also making a video series about tool changer on SV08

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@winandd8649 Yes, I've watched part 1. Curious how the project will work out. He still has a long way to go...

[@winandd8649]

@@gerGoPrint3D Agree, but I'm confident he'll come up with a working plan and that everything will be very nicely documented, both hardware wise as Klipper changes

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@winandd8649 Don't get me wrong, I love his content and will be following this project especially closely! I might even do it after him.

[@jamesharris5336]

Thank you for all that you do. My Svo7, and Svo8 are printing better than ever.

[@rodolfocruz2412]

Thanks!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thank you very much! You are too kind!

[@savesabanal3871]

I just pulled the trigger on the SV08. It is. Is on sale at eBay for around 463 USD. I’m looking forward to dialing it in and upgrading it using your guide. Of course, I already subscribed to your channel. 🎉

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Congrats! Is that a new machine? That's a very good price!

[@treyduval5399]

I can’t even get a returned open boxing for that price! What seller did you use!?

[@savesabanal3871]

@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you! I have an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro as my workhorse. Installed Klipper and did input shaping and did some tuning. It prints fantastic at 160 mm/s. But I’m ready for a larger and faster corexy printer after learning a lot about 3D printing. I’m looking forward to more content from your channel!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@treyduval5399 There is a sale going on at Sovol right now, I think they offer at these prices on ebay

[@savesabanal3871]

⁠@@treyduval5399SV08 is now on sale at eBay for 492 US dollars😊. I thought you’d like to know.

[@scorpioo4320]

Thank you , was bit confused though seeing a M12 LJ12A3-4-Z/BX (B) probe on the printable page for the mount. I did order the AX as you stated to "make sure to select the last "M12 LJ12A3-4-Z/AX" option! " Hope you will answer this IS the right one ?!

[@notchipotle]

great video, love my SV08 even more after each calibration and mod

[@zilla85]

Thank you, looking forward for getting my SV08!

[@Dennis_is_Outside]

Thanks gerGO! I just bought and installed your macro.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thank you for your support!

[@monkeyflyer410]

Excellent, in depth and precision delivery of pertinent information! I have a question... I noticed the connector for the inductive probe is labelled with 'BL Touch'. Do you think it would therefore be as easy as plugging a bl touch into that port on the print head and slightly reconfiguring the config file? Anyway, I enjoyed your video and sensible approach to testing and assessing this new equipment.

[@Holger_aka_Schmudi]

Great video again. Thank you so much for all the SV08 videos!

[@abitnutz6747]

I can't wait for your probe upgrade!

[@abitnutz6747]

I ordered and M12 probe from Sovol in anticipation of modding the SV08 to use it. It was $9.99 USD shipping incl.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

That's smart!

[@jeanbindels2009]

@@gerGoPrint3D I used the super pinda from prusa on my sovol SV06 and SVO6 plus and will also do the same on the SV08, which is still accurate

[@andersnielsen4390]

Would this better M12 probe be installed from the factory in future versions? I don’t get why they use a lower quality one in SV08, than the ones used in SV06/07?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

​@@andersnielsen4390 Good point… I think they were optimizing for weight, but a 3x worse accuracy isn’t worth the 10-15g shed

[@andersnielsen4390]

@@gerGoPrint3D oh yes, weight saving, that would make sense. They could maybe make a “skeleton-like” printerhead casing in stead, in order to save some grams?

[@renigade234]

Looking forward to seeing how much better the bigger probe will be. Also, how easy would it be to add a second Camera to the SV08, preferably a second one of the same type that came with the printer? Lastly, will you be looking into the AMS system that was Announced for the SV08? Been loving my SV07+ so far and all your videos have helped a lot. Been getting a lot of good prints off of my Printer. I am excited to see how the SV08 develops with time.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

There are two free USB ports on the side and even a third free port internally (and of course you can connect more via USB hubs). However I am not sure if the RPi would be powerful enough to drive multiple of these cameras. Also, if you want to place it too on the moving gantry, you would have to mimic the same cable route. Why do you need more than one camera? The current one is really wide angle, covers the whole print bed area.

[@pizzablender]

@@gerGoPrint3D I'd love to see a "clicky" type probe. Lighter and more accurate, I suppose.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@pizzablender Look into Nadir's mod, I show it at 5:12

[@michael.bruton]

Thanks for the awesome content! Keep up the great work!

[@AnuragDeshpande]

Hello, Great videos. Love your content on SV08, I bought one recently and would have been stuck without your content. Amazing work. I even bought your macro files and loaded it on to the printer. I guess since the video was uploaded, the macro files are now a paid download as the video seems to be showing the files as free download.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Yes, since the video I've added so much to that project that it made sense to attach a low price, just a little guarantee that it's well tested and maintained. Thank you for the support and feedback.

[@yertelt5570]

Thanks for the update on the wiki page being open now. I was able to download the content of the usb they ship with the machine and install the orca slicer profiles and read the user manual while I wait for my printer to ship. If anyone ordered a sv08 with the enclosure and/or the HDMI screen upgrade, I just received confirmation from sovol that the printer will ship first, then any upgrades as the become available.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Enjoy! Yes the upgrades will come probably weeks later. So mostly PLA and PETG printing first. But I've actually got used to using the mini screen, the printer is 100% functional without the HDMI screen.

[@yertelt5570]

@@gerGoPrint3D All I have on hand right now is PLA+ so it works out, lol. Looking forward to future videos, I have a feeling you are going to be a valuable source of tips and information.

[@k4x4map46]

excellent just excellent...thanks for all the specs!! built a very sturdy workbench she ready!!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

You can cheat the width and height requirements a bit if you rearrange the spool a bit

[@k4x4map46]

@@gerGoPrint3D wonder if you can mount the spool on the opposite upper rail?

[@SQUISITEgames]

I cannot get past 13:07 in the video. I plug in the commands shown at the bottom, and it says no such file or directory. I am putting all of the text in at one time. I need help

[@gerGoPrint3D]

ssh into the device first (shown at 13:04). The commands at 07 are intended for the host not your windows computer

[@CheezeCurdler]

If you calibrate the axis using different filaments, does that change the results of the test? One would think that shrinkage could be a factor.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Indeed, filament specific shrinkage does impact dimensional accuracy, and this isn’t something that can be offset simply by taking internal and external measurements. It seems we might need to measure the travel distances instead. However, if you consistently use the same type of filament, you could potentially calibrate your printer to achieve greater precision with that specific filament

[@CheezeCurdler]

@@gerGoPrint3D perhaps using a dial indicator and jogging the gantry a set distance might be a better method. Then you can add offsets to each filament type

[@Maker-CW]

I don't know if you chose ".42" as your IP intentionally or not but I appreciate "the answer..." :)

[@gerGoPrint3D]

The router handed out the '.42' completely at random, but who knows-maybe it's been having deep conversations with Deep Thought! Perhaps it’s working up to calculate the ultimate question of life, the universe, and everything. 🤔

[@cowboy124aa3]

You should look into getting Eddy or Beacon bed meshing sensor, it takes only seconds to run a mesh because it scans over the bed instead of point probbing. It is something like Lidar for your printer bed but uses magnetics and math to create a better and more acurate mesh. There are a few video about this new bed meshing device out now. I will be getting one for my Sv08 when i get it this week.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thanks! Please post us on your experience. For now I am not planning to change the probe, as I am happy with the stock one. I actually tried replacing with the M12 probe, though it produced higher accuracy according to the test but it turned out to be much more temperature sensitive giving me worse first layers than the original. So I went back to it. With heat-soaking it gives perfect results for me. I also read up on Eddy sensor, I hear it is indeed much much faster but also at the price of less accuracy, again resulting in worse first layers. For now I am content with the stock sensor, ain't broke: don't fix it.

[@cowboy124aa3]

@@gerGoPrint3D I understand, you have to use what works for you, but all the videos i have watched says that the eddy wave gave better first layer accuracy, giving a perfect first layer. But I guess its all in how its set up and calibrated. I will be giving it a try and I will let you know how it goes. My printer is being delivered in an hour so I am looking forward to setting it up and in a few weeks give the probe and other mods a try Thanks for your response. Happy printing!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@cowboy124aa3 Congrats to the new printer. And smart on giving it a few weeks before modding. And thank you if you can share your experience, I am not that hard to convince, but I tend to be kind of lazy too...

[@3D_Printing]

I what it to play a Tune when fished 3D printing; song.cfg does not appear to work for me. Does the SOVOL SVO8 have full and complete Klipper? .

[@SchokoGames]

Great video, thanks for your work!

[@dannyspencer4504]

So I dragged over the version 4 file and added the command in printer.cfg and then hit save and restart but nothing is appearing in the menu. Do I need to be running a custom firmware?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

You'll first have to extract the file GP3D_Macro.cfg from the zip file, and drag that into the printer's SYSTEM screen (it might need to be opened in a web browser, not in Orca). After adding the file, do add the include line as described in Cults3D project. I hope you succeed! Thank you for the support!

[@rodolfocruz2412]

Hi there I appreciate your work on the SV08 I have installed the GP3D macro file and I only print in petg so I did all recommendations and I’m very happy with it, but I want to ask you if in those settings you turn off the parts cooling fan because it has never worked again. Or maybe it just went bad all of the sudden. But before I buy a new one I need to know if it’s not because of the new settings. Good work my friend and have a good one.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Hm. I did not make any changes to the part cooling fans. Maybe they came unplugged? Be careful it is supposed to be plugged into the socket marked "P1" on the extruder. There are FAN3 and FAN4 which both come unused! Maybe when you removed the extruder cover you plugged it back in the wrong port? I actually talk about this in the unboxing video.

[@rodolfocruz2412]

Hey I just connected the parts cooling fan in the connector of the fan at the back and it works really good so that means that it is disconnected in the GP3D macros right. How can I put it to work like normal with this settings.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@rodolfocruz2412 I am sorry, but I don't really know. My macros don't do anything to the fans. If they worked without my macros, they will keep working, if for some reason they don't work, my macro won't fix them 🤓You can test: just comment out (put a ; character in front of the include line for my macros in printer.cfg). Reboot the printer and check how things work. Again, the fan in the extruder cover should be plugged into the vertical header marked "P1". The headers FAN3 (on the top) and FAN4 (on the bottom) are unoccupied for me. Both the front and back part fans work OK. You can also check your filament presets, if they correctly configure the cooling. I have 70% 30s for min and 90% 5s for max, but these are the increased values for PLA because of the enclosure. I think the defaults were 50% and 70%.

[@rodolfocruz2412]

Thanks for your help. I found what the problem was, I bought this SV08 three weeks ago it didn’t come with the new nozzle but it seems that it was configured different from yours. Part cooling fan was on fan 3 socket so immediately after I configured your macros it stopped working. Thanks to you telling me about P1 it is now working fine but I’m having a lot of thin hair like stringing. I’m printing at 255 do you think it’s the temperature or what retraccion do you recommend. I have only done the GP3D macros ver 3 and the changes for the leveling temperature for printing in Petg.

[@gaborhuszar4452]

Hi GerGo! What is the bed thickness? Did they cheap out on it? If the bed deflection is consistent between heat cycles, you can shim it with aluminium foil.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

The bed itself is pretty thin, it is only placed on a taller plastic raiser. But, as you can see in my video, it still produces very good flat mesh at 65°C, I see no reason to shim it or anything. It is plenty good out of the gate. The center 300x300 area could be well under 0.1mm range, having only the edges and corners sticking out (very minimally though)

[@gaborhuszar4452]

@@gerGoPrint3D I mean, if you see a dip in the mesh, you can place a single or folded piece of kitchen alu foil between the magnetic bed and the buildplate on that spot. It will stick to the magnetic sheet's plastic compound just enough to not slide around when removing prints, but it is easily removable if not needed. It's not even a mod... Easily worth doing for nearly halving the 0,27mm. Sad to hear about the thin bed. I was afraid of that.

[@airheadbit1984]

My SV08 finally arrived, when I ordered I thought it would arrive a week later, three months later I received the printer. I watched a video where the nozzle worked loose causing the nozzle to embed into the plate, couldn't the height of the nozzle be measured after the HOME function using the pressure sensor and moving the nozzle to the far right before testing the induction probe?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I know it looks scary, but afaik these are very isolated cases, and Sovol takes full responsibility they send you new nozzle and spring sheet asap. I have printed many many kilos of PETG between my SV08 and T300 (which uses the same type of nozzle, and I had this printer for more than half a year without any issues).

[@filipecosta7952]

when making the calibration before the print starts the table is always 65ºC, (variable_bed_mesh_calibrate_target_temp: 65) or you have a way to change the temperature to use other material? like abs, asa, etc, if using always the 65ºC on calibration, when start print at 80º or plus won't make difference on the bed?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

check my next video where I show you how to fix this with a few tiny changes to macro.cfg: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6fEZ6N4nKqla68

[@filipecosta7952]

@@gerGoPrint3D thank you 👍

[@mikeskerritt9618]

Hi Gergo. Another excellent video. What I am winding is. Could 😂you offer these important improvements on a usb stick or combined with the usb coppieier. I think boy having all the upgraded files on the memory stick it would make it so much easier to install this. One other thind. I seen a ruzer and storage top available for download for the bamboo labels machines. This, I think, I think would be a super upgrade to have for the Solvol sv08. Kindest regards. Mike Skerritt. PS. I have a Solvo sv08 on oeder since your first video and cant wait to start printing.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

It's very easy to add these changes. It's really download, drag and drop and a single line. Maybe I will include the probe settings in my macro collection as well, then it's really a one stop affair. Having them on a server like cults3D is better, because I can keep it up-to-date. And if you ever download it, you will get automatic update emails if I make improvements in the future! I know 3DPrintDemon is also coming out with his (even more powerful) macro collection, and who knows, I hope Christian Vick will also join in the fun with his Klipper Printer Additions. I hope he is gettin the SV08 as well. Imagine his preprint magic on the SV08!!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGKQh4hmZpJse9U

[@MrBaskins2010]

thank you for doing what the manufacturer wont

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I am a fan, that's the problem 🙃

[@nickt4508]

one NEVER changes ratation distance to get accurate parts as that will most deffently leave you with parts thats not accurate as insted of 100mm travel you would get 101mm or similar. what you change is in the slicer xy compasation or in the printer firmware as its material schrinkage

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thank you for comfirming this, I had the feeling :)

[@mortegutt]

You also calibrate e steps without the nozzle installed, cause you can have different melting rates for different filaments. You calibrate the flow for each filament.

[@dannyspencer4504]

So what’s the correct way then? I did the same in the video on my flsun v400 and was about to do the estep calibration on the sv08, also how does it work doing it without a nozzle on? You need to see how much you are extruding using filament?

[@WindwakerDE]

Burning *after midnight oil* 😊... and enjoying❤

[@DavidLeeMenefee]

Hey gerGO did you know that Linear rails for the Sovol SV07 Plus are coming out? see ( S&M Makers- KZbinr). Will you be adding these to your SV07 plus? Dave.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

No! I did not hear. I mean I've seen mods like this, but is this an official upgrade from Sovol? That would sure sound interesting

[@DavidLeeMenefee]

@@gerGoPrint3D YES! Sovol will be coming out with these shortly, Dave.

[@rickardbarboza7238]

On the wiki page there is a firmware upgrade (.deb) link and an image file (.img) link. What is the difference, and do we need to use both? Are they one and same except the .img file is written directly to the EMMC instead of the .deb file which is used to flash it using the usb stick?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

The DEB is for incrementally upgrade your current Klipper installation using a USB stick as shown in my video. This method retains some of your settings and your G-code files, timelapse videos. The IMG file needs an EMMC adapter, and the software BellenaEtcher to make a clean install overwriting everything on the EMMC card.

[@TheDIYer]

Is it possible to do the repeateability test on the pressure probe at the back right to check its accuracy? or is there a way to find the out put of it as a graph / plot like a temperature sensor shows.?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Print head needs to be homed before issuing the probe_accuracy command, but I am pretty sure we could move it before starting the test. Yes, with a relatively simple macro we could move it around the print surface and see if the results change with location. In the same manner, a macro could move the probe near the print bed to heat it to different temperatures and carry out the test at different temps. All results would be recorded in the log, which could then be analyzed by some software. This is a fairly big project though. Maybe it would be worth the work if we compared various types of probes. For now I only have the stock probe and an M12 which proved to be more accurate but also more temperature sensitive, so I ended up keeping the stock on my machine. With 10 min preheating it is producing a perfectly usable mesh and very good first layers.

[@TheDIYer]

@@gerGoPrint3D I just figured that it exists, its called "PROBE_ACCURACY1"

[@iacopozucchetti5494]

mmm.... that graph on Y axes show acc to 6.1k ... maybe it can be better if u can remove the green spike on 60hz but its very low for a new generation printer ... atm the "standard" is about 10k just look creality k1 for example, i have with that 12k acc with single spike on X and 12k single spike to Y too

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Yes, I am not happy with Y resonances. I would expect better from a fixed bed printer...

[@iacopozucchetti5494]

@@gerGoPrint3D what about vfa ? to avoid it with k1 i cant go slower then 150mms :(

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@iacopozucchetti5494 No discernable VFA on the SV08. Afaik this is more a Creality issue. The SV08 uses belts on Z which is better in this regard.

[@MarcusReichert-zr8zs]

Hello Gergo again Thank you for your wonderful Videos. I have a question When I do a bed Mesh i Always get the Error Probe Samples exeed samples_tolerances With or without your Probe mods in printed.cfg I have No idea. could you Help or have an Idea ? Thank you so much Regards and thank you Marcus

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Could be faulty probe. Preheat bed with the probe near it (use my macro) if that doesn't help contat Sovol, they might need to send you a new probe

[@MarcusReichert-zr8zs]

Thank you for the Tip. I used the original Probe and an M12. Always the Same. When i do only one try Probe ( Not 2-3 ) in printer.cfg Section Probe IT works

[@Kinemechanica]

gerGO, thanks for your wonderful videos! I have an out of place question here; my apologies! I have disturbed my print head probe position on my SV06 + printer while attempting to fix some filament oozing issues and don't know how to re-calibrate it to the bed. I have the Klipper screen installed and it is driving the nozzle into the PEI bed! Help! Thank you!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

It's not that out of place. The same goes for any 3D printer. You just need to re-set z-offset. That when we establish the distance between the detected height by the probe and the tip of the nozzle. Make sure to raise the probe a little bit higher than the nozzle so it doesn't catch on things. Its bottom should be in line with the bottom of the fan shroud. Then set z-offset using the paper method. That's it! If the probe bracket got damaged you can print a new one from the opensource STEP file on Sovol's GitHub page for the SV06+

[@Kinemechanica]

@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you for your prompt response! I watch your channel faithfully, so keep up the good work!

[@Kinemechanica]

That did the trick! Many thanks!🤗

[@florianhauser9429]

Thanks! Appreciate all your videos.... Cup o' tea on me ;)

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thank you so much for all your support!!!

[@Immolate62]

The obvious question, Gergo, is what do you do if your bed mesh variance isn't 0.027 but rather 1.856? Asking for a friend. FYI using your soak macro to heat up the bed for a bit before trying again.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

:) Yes that sound like a lot. Check the back corners if they are lifted. And you should also test your inductive probe, it could be faulty. I show you how to check and what tolarences are within specs.

[@Beskar181]

How do we create the bed mesh you mention at 18:15 ?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

You can use the "Calibrate" button on the "Heightmap" page of the web interface, or use the command Levelling > Bed Mesh on the device itself.

[@AlbertRavoir]

On my (old) Ender 5 plus upgraded quite a lot, I use Marling 2.1 trunk release and I switched to MPC instead of PID for hotend, it's so much more precise with nearly no overshot. Does klipper miss this?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Once tuned, I don't see much overshooting with the nozzle. The bed is trickier, but also less important to keep absolutely constant. Upon a quick search there seem to be some beginnings of an MPC option for Klipper, SV08 being open source nothing stops you from experimenting.

[@frankdearr2772]

Great topic, thanks 👍

[@eaman11]

Can you do a max acceleration test with the [gcode_macro TEST_SPEED] from Ellis guide?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Will do max acceleration, post results here. I've already done PLA Rapid max flow rate in my last video (comparing it to Qidi Q1 Pro) and also in an earlier video with regular PLA (the video about Orca calibration aids)

[@eaman11]

​@@gerGoPrint3D Yup I saw that now: 21mc. Not much actually with such a big bed size. Thanks a lot, nice work!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@eaman11 Actually the Q1 Pro was 23mm³/s and the SV08 measured 32mm³/s

[@eaman11]

@@gerGoPrint3D Oh really, in the video about OrcaSlicer calibration it was 21mc... Well that's much better, maybe with a CHT nozzle it can also grow an extra 20%, that would be nice for using a bigger nozzle efficiently on such a big bed. Thanks for the update.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@eaman11 That's that engineering PLA. In the Q1 Pro comparison video I measure Conjure Rapid PLA → kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5-1hqZ_edN1raM

[@kevanchapman5233]

Hi gerGo, thanks for the great video. I just got my SV08 on Friday, and now I'm trying to follow your recommendations here. I could run the input shaper commands fine, but I'm running into trouble with the calibrate_shaper.py scripts. When I enter the command as you have it posted, i.e. ~/klipper/scripts/calibrate_shaper.py /tmp/resonances_x_*.csv -o /home/sovol/printer_data/config/shaper_calibrate_x.png the console just responds with 'Unknown command: "/" '. I feel like I'm missing something ridiculously easy here...

[@kevanchapman5233]

NEVER MIND! I somehow overlooked the 'ssh into the system' bit. *forhead slap*

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@kevanchapman5233 Thank you for posting the fix! Who would believe me, but I was going to ask you exactly this "have you logged into via SSH"? Enjoy the rest of the advanture!

[@J0stik]

hello, it is possible to connect BIGTREETECH Smart Filament Sensor V2.0 ? that can also detect fillament not moving. (if motheboard can support it ? ) :)

[@gerGoPrint3D]

There are a cuple of unused pins both on the extruder board and the main board, chances are you can install it either in place of the current one or directly on the extruder... But personally I don't have any experience with it yet.

[@diddi6209]

Hi Gergo, I know you have tested a lot of 3D printers from Sovol. Which one would you recommend? I'm thinking of switching from my SV07 Plus.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

The SV08 is a nice step ahead in terms of build volume without increasing the desk footprint (because of the stationary bed). The linear rails on all axes are also an upgrade from the v-slot wheels. Easier to enclose and is capable of even higher speeds. Cooling and noise is similar. Stock mini-screen is a step back, but it does accomplish the job, web-interface is identical and you can easily upgrade. Built in camera, especially with a non-moving bed is nice to have. Overall, it's about double the price but indeed at least double the offering. I keep using my SV07+, but the SV08 is now my first choice when printing something.

[@Havok412]

Hello, can anyone help me with the SSH process? Once I reach the part where I put in my password, I cannot seem to type anything (I'm assuming I am typing it just doesn't show the what you typed) When I input "sovol" as my password it says it is incorrect. I've tried looking up other possible passwords and none have worked. I am inputting correct IP. Everything else I've gotten to work without issue except SSH into my printer.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

The command in windows looks like: ssh sovol@192.168.x.x (the ip of the printer). Then you are supposed to type your password "sovol" blindly.

[@TylerGotAYTAccount]

Hmm. I did these calibrations but I am still off for some reason. Printed an object that has a hole for a 6mm magnet in it after the calibration and it doesnt fit. Wonder what else I need to do.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Adjust XY compensation for countour and holes on a per print (or even on a per-object) basis. Dimensional accuracy tests are more for testing and comparision to other printers rather than ways to adjust specific prints.

[@Elmo_fatz]

Hey guys , I just received my device last week and from scratch, it showed the known z belt rattle issues but another one, that I've never heard of yet. First time I bootet up the device and the led strip and MCU fan were off and could not be started manually neither. After checking all the cables and consulting the Sovol support, I couldn't find any lose cables or so. All of a sudden, when I bootrt the machine 5 times, the led strip and fan turned on ?!?! So far so good, I did the calibration , first prints etc. The next day I tried to boot the machine again: same issue. No MCU fan , led strip shows as "on" in the screen menu and no chance to turn it on manually. I tried to do several factory resets but this didn't help. This is the current status until now; the machine works in kind of 1/10 tries. Any ideas ?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

One of the beta tester's device did this sometimes. It’s actually quite dangerous as it allows the mainboard & Pi to severely overheat! He thinks it is due to a firmware issue on the board, or at least some code buried somewhere out of sight regarding the built in initial state behaviour of these pins. Which is silly as it should be in the printer.cfg file! It was mentioned to the engineers, hopefully they will fix it in an update soon. There is no way to change this behaviour as a user as it needs to be done on Sovol’s end. Or the file where they hide these initial states can be found. As far as I understand just power cycling the printer should fix it. But we haven't really been able to pinpoint what triggers this behaviour.

[@Elmo_fatz]

​@@gerGoPrint3D I also receive these Moonraker update alerts , nog sure if this is also a know "issue" Dependency: Moonraker The current Moonraker version does not support all features of Mainsail. Update Moonraker to at least v0.8.0-306.

[@MarcusReichert-zr8zs]

Hallo again dear Gergo Thank you for your perfect videos. I love them and they are about the best on KZbin for 3D Printer Geeks. So I finally got a Sovol SV08 and it runs quite well out of the box. Only the probe of the bed is a terrible thing. Z-Offset is always wrong. Can you tell me which better probe exactly to buy ? I want to tinker it but I do not have so much experience. In the video you say there are more exact probes. I think many of us have this problem and a video would be also great to update the printer with better bed mesh and probe. Would be happy to get a tip. Have a good weekend. Greetings Marcus PS. You can spare the K1C and get the Ender-3 V3 Plus for a Test. Is mich better than the K1C.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Yes, the probe is the achille's heel of this machine, but fortunately it is fairly inexpensive and easy to upgrade. I recommend heat soaking before using the the probe that helped me, but on the long term upgrade the probe to a better one like 3DPrintDemon did on printables with an M12). I would skip the K1C, the K1 Max looks more interesting and closer to the SV08 in size. For a smaller printer I will wait for the K2.

[@MarcusReichert-zr8zs]

@@gerGoPrint3D ok thank you. I ordered s probe with more that 5 volts Where to connect it? Where the actual probe is ?

[@MarcusReichert-zr8zs]

Yes the k2 seems nice. The print quality of the Ender-3 V3 Plus is out of the box awesome. Better than on sv08 so far

[@ptitbass]

My bed mesh range is 1.0 mm is that a problem? it is acceptable? It seem to be lower at the front up to -0.5 and higher at the back up to 0.5.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

QGL should balance that out. Did you run QGL before meshing? Make sure to heat soak the bed and probe at the actual print temerature 10-15 minutes before doing QGL + mesh.

[@ptitbass]

@@gerGoPrint3D Yeah i forgot the QGL... i adjusted the probe settings.. soak for 5 min at 65, did a QGL and a new full bed mesh and i got like 0.6 in range. So its better.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@ptitbass .6 range for a 350x360 is actually not that bad. ABL should be able to deal with it. 5 min of heat soak might be a bit too short. Give it 10 next time.

[@ptitbass]

@@gerGoPrint3D Was thinking about it and yeah uou might be right about 10 min soaking instead of 5. Will try that. Thank!

[@pah1of284]

Question, how are you printing the corner without support?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Oh, you mean in the cali-corner? Just proper design, 45° angles and 5mm bridging on the top. You don't need supports for these. My models almost never need supports, there are usually ways to avoid them.

[@Weird_guy79]

I can't get any calibrations to save, either through the printer control screen or the Klipper interface. I'm not sure if it's even updating to the current firmware, it does the whole update procedure but the date listed on screen doesn't match the version placed on the usb drive. At this point I'm over all the tinkering as nothing works and there are so many half arsed responses by those that mean well but really should be posting solutions to problems they don't really understand let along posting macro changes.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

What is the symptom? Have you tried the SAVE_CONFIG command in Mainsail? Changes take effect after reboot.

[@Weird_guy79]

@@gerGoPrint3D yes over and over makes no difference. I have altered the start gcode so it now runs a z offset calibration before each print. Slow work around but it sorts the z offset at the least. Made some of the printer. cfg alteration suggested in your vid that's helped with unrelated issues. Surprisingly prints fine not even PETG is an issue, just can't get any of the calibration results stick, input shaping, z offset, pid etc and the firmware version states 2.3.3 but date is 2024 04 27 which doesn't align with any firmware date that i can see. .

[@Weird_guy79]

@@gerGoPrint3D also can not get timelapes to work no matter what I do.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@Weird_guy79 What slicer are you using? Their stock Orca presets have timelapse already configured.

[@Weird_guy79]

@@gerGoPrint3D Orca, presets didn't work. Tried changing it to several different suggestions but still no luck. Had timelapes issues with my K1 max in mainsail as well, nothing worked except installing fluid and configuring timelapes through it. Timelapes then in worked in mainsail.

[@djsolstice8964]

Printing a 100 mm XYZ model cal print, I got 99.6 mm for all XYZ axis. I'm leaving it. 0.4% error is fine.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Yes, that's just 1-2 layers difference on a relatively big object, won't do better than that!

[@L3Dhelpguide]

Never adjust X Y or Z stepping unless a progressive calibration shows it off in multiple length samples at a fixed rate of error

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thank you for comfirming what I too concluded by the end!

[@Dweenz69]

Cheers gerGo!

[@meltonpieman959]

Take a look at this video about calibration “cubes”. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpO6cpuYaZWefZYsi=gspX9zk6vVmgmWV0 I downloaded his cauliflower and spreadsheet for a minimal cost. I used it on my SV06 and got good improvements. He also sends out updates for free. The latest was a change to the spreadsheet. I think that this is a worthwhile step to take with any printer.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Good tip!

[@adysshor]

Hey GerGo

[@zacharyrau]

Just post the video, I found it in my KZbin feed as a "coming soon" and likely won't ever watch it because once it comes up in the feed once it doesn't come up again from my experience.

[@Milkex]

what the fuck even is this comment

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I apologize for any inconvenience caused😞 I appreciate your feedback and understand that you prefer immediate access to videos. While I’ve shortened the wait time for the premiere to accommodate viewers, the discussion generated during the premiere can be quite engaging. The last premiere attracted over 70 participants, indicating that many find value in this format. However, I’ll take your preference into account for future content. Thank you for sharing your thoughts.

[@jimmcdonald2148]

​@@gerGoPrint3DI'm very glad you're not doing live streams! Whilst the 'premier' seems superfluous to subscribers/notification -of-new-content, it doesn't get in my way either.

[@TheSolongsidekick]

So I received my SV08 about a month ago and it seems either I got luckt or they drastically improved the probe. My sensor shows a range of 0.07-0.011 when heated to 65º. That's freaking rad, I've been extremely happy with my unit so far but really disappointed in Sovol and their communication. Although I guess since you're around who needs Sovol? Just please don't get all selfish and die on us. Please.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I hope it's 0.007, which is indeed pretty good. Even with heat soaking I cannot get it below 0.011. But even it is sufficient for good first layers. BTW the M12 upgrade doesn't look too hard, I might just do it for a video topic :)