The nozzle is exactly the same for the two printers. Heatsinks are a bit different but the nozzle itself can be directly swapped between the two (I did it)

The original idea is from Alebanci on Printables, but he flipped the printer on its side to install, and his version needs glue. See my next video on the S1 Pro on how I actually installed the wheels (very easy!) and some of my other upgrades → kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4m1fGullrZ-eMU BTW I think I've figured out why timelapse fails in some cases. There is a very easy fix, coming in a next short video!

Thanks! We've scanned each other with my little nephew :) → kzbin.info/www/bejne/nnTWc3qsn9SLhaM

:) I am a big fan of Texans!

Make sure to have "Klipper" selected for G-code flavor and 250x250/PNG added for "G-code thumbnails" in the Advanced section of the printer settings of Orca slicer. Because of a Makerbase bug, you'll also need the following two (commented) lines in your start g-code on the Machine G-code page: ;### hack-fix to generate preview-images in Moonraker / fluidd / printer's display: Write fake slicer info here so that preprocess_cancellation can process. ### ; generated by SuperSlicer 1.5.0 on 2023-04-21 at 13:13:47

@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you so much! such a quick reply :)

If you Klipperize I highly recommend swiching to Orca → kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGKQh4hmZpJse9U

Thank you for bringing this to our attention! Makes much sense! Yes, I actually stopped messing with chaning the rotational distance on my printers, they tend to come pretty well tuned out of the box. However, I did have one printer (T300) that consistently printed objects slightly smaller than my other printers, which made it impossible to produce parts that fit properly with those printed on the others. To resolve this, I made a slight uniform adjustment to bring that printer in line with the rest.

@@gerGoPrint3D You're welcome! Regarding the T300, which isn't the sharpest tool in the shed, I recommend basing your adjustment on the largest possible sample. This way, the impact of the change and any potential inaccuracies should be less noticeable when printing smaller models. Keep up the good work. Regards.

80% scale also cuts the filament need by half!

I think you'll have to repartition it to use all the extra available storage, but I haven't received my EMMC yet, so I can tell you the exact steps yet. If you do figure out in the meantime please let me know how 😉

Yes, that absolutely sounds doable. Which brings me another idea: maybe I could just design a 3D printed venting channel that could snap to the back of the device, it would be just the thickness of that fan in the back or the space behind my printer (~30mm), but would replace the fan just leading to the side of the printer (the left in my case) where it would expand to a 100mm circle connection to my inline fan, which I use with my CO2 laser and already converted to use with the Q1 Pro (shown in this video → kzbin.info/www/bejne/moGZkpewa7F7jpYsi=4T7Vi7jYTCCgFVNk&t=264 ) to vent them outside. Of course all the had work of bringing the fan wires out from the motherboard goes to waste... But maybe we can use that power to drive something else that's useful, e.g. more LED lights

@ Something to keep in mind is each time the air flow changes direction. It slows down and creates turbulence and eddy flows. The blower fan does not change direction. If you are ducting , use large sweeping curves rather than a sharp 90 degree. Connecting it to an existing extraction system is a great idea. I have my woodworking power tool on one system and use gate valves to direct the airflow. These are moved in and out with motors that were originally, designed for car remote door locking. One day if I get the time I will automate the open and closing with an arduino.

I was going to say make sure to update the software to the latest both on phone and printer. I have experience with Android, but it connected smoothly. The sideways video was a bug in an earlier firmware I've heard. However I am having difficulty with timelapse now, in contact with FLSUN to try to figure out the cause. Sometimes timelapse works, sometimes it just doesn't show up after the print, pretty disappointing after a big print.

You are my hero! 😊 I’ve watched your videos before getting the printer and your models, and I absolutely love your out-of-the-box ideas. As soon as I saw your video, I ordered these wheels-who would have thought they’d arrive from China faster than the printer from Germany, a neighboring country? Anyway, the wheels work great, and I was surprised to see they improved the input shaper characteristics. But how does that even happen? I included a snippet of your video in my first impressions of the S1 Pro, as well as a link to your Printables page in this one. As for ABS printing, I haven’t tried it yet. To be honest, I rely on my Qidi Q1 Pro with its heated chamber vented outside for ABS prints. Even if I test ABS on the S1, it won’t be my go-to for regular printing-maybe only for larger prints that don’t fit in the Qidi. That said, having bed adhesion problems is disappointing. Are you able to get the chamber temperature to at least 45°C? That’s essential for ABS to avoid curling. On my Qidi, I actually use glue not for adhesion but to help remove prints from the bed afterward! You might want to experiment with different ABS brands since some adhere better than others. In this video, you’re using hairspray-have you tried the glue stick FLSUN sent with the printer? Did they include one with the regular S1 as well? I’m really curious to hear how you succeed with ABS printing!

Fortunately I haven't yet needed to dismantle the extruder but everyone says it's a nightmare. I know I will need to eventually... A little bit curious too, of course. I've seen a few convoluted extruders, ready for next level :) As for nozzle-bed distance, my unit does an exceptionally good job, one of the best I've seen amongs all my printers. I show close ups of first layers throughout the video, so you can hopefully see too. All these are based on the automatic probing the printer did on its own. I did not have to touch z-height at all. I guess either this is another one of the things they've upgraded from first iteration to "pro". They really should issue an upgrade package to their first customers, or should have painted this a different color and call it S2 :) This is more like an "S1 Fixed". But at least this is one that can be recommended, not that it's much of a consolidation for you. I have another printer for printing ABS which is already hooked up to my venting system, so haven't tested the S1 Pro with ABS or other high temp material. I will be using this for high speed large PLA/PETG printing. It prints 2x faster than my SV08 and 3x faster than the K2 Plus. That's pretty insane. Even though it is louder and bigger than both of them.

@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you for your experience with pro model. Yes the FLSun S1 pro was like a slap in the face to S1 first model owners. They dont give the silent kit (quieter CPAV turbo fan) neither load cell sensors. They give some instructions about upgrade the Closed Loop motor driver board. But it need a special external piece of hardware/programmer to do. It is cheap but I would hope the printer have a automatic upgrade of this board. Also in the S1(non pro) I note what I think is an error design with the mosfet H-Bridge current sense which could be surrounded with the firmware. Some people tell me in S1 Pro this PCB board is exactly the same so maybe the problem continues. I raise myself the circuit schematics of this PCB board. By the way I use the Open Source version of Guilouz and works very well. I hear about bricked machines with software updates so right now I am far away from oficial firmware releases. Flipping the CPAV have an unespected adtionale advantage, it is now more quieter. It have two disadvantages however: first is you need drill a hole in the top of the printer, second is you will need have the printer door open if print PLA or closed door but install extraction air fan in the chamber to activate when print PLA to expell hot air.

How new is the printer? Make sure the extruder fan runs at 100% and there is no dust or dirt hindering its effectiveness. What type of filament are you printing? For PLA / PETG keep doors / top open, for high temp materials like ABS the enclosure should not be heated above 50°C, but it's hard to get it over 40°C... Retraction distance can affect it too, if you've changed from the default 0.8mm try restoring that value.

I basically adapted the one in my Sovols. They probably copied from Prusa :)

Thank you for the kind feedback. I don't currently have any printer that did not come with klipper already (except my 6 years old Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus, but that's too old really for anything). Besides I am not a linux wiz, I'd have to learn much to be able to do something like this.

Easy choice if you know what you'll be most interested to print. If you want practical, functional prints go Q1 Pro, it will let you go further deep into the hobby with a much wider range of materials producing strong, functional pieces safely. On the other hand if colorful figurines and toys attract you more, go for the A1 combo (or the AnyCubic Kobra 3 combo). For me, multi-color printing is attractive, but the curiocity eventually wears off and 90% of my projects are functional prints, where enclosed coreXY is more benefitial. Here is something to look into: check out the new Anycubic S1 Combo. It is an enclosed coreXY with the option of multicolor! Best of both worlds and you can get it at introductory prices now, or just get the base printer first and add the ACE unit later. I've put a link to it into the description of this video ($579 with coupon GKBCE301 including color changer and get 3kg PLA gift!)

I wouldn’t trust Bambu, just look into the controversy with them recently but other than that I agree with everything the channel owner said except 1 thing or at least something that should be said: the main difference is the QiDi can do higher temps both for extruder and the bed I believe however regardless it’s enclosed which is needed when doing most higher temp prints and can help with pretty much every print (just need to open the door or something for lower temp stuff) and in general the higher temp materials are stronger/more functional which is why he’s saying it’s more functional HOWEVER that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s better for all functional parts vs a normal printer WITH a multi material system because if you’re printing complex geometry where you’ll be using a lot of supports that are on or inside the model then the A1 may be better because you can use the multi color aspect which is also multi material and use water soluble support material as one of the materials and then you can make super complex stuff with industrial type materials like nylon and PC CF etc then soak it in water and remove the interior supports and yog can also do other multi material stuff like print with TPU and then also CF PETG so certain parts of the print are flexible and others are more rigid yet still flexible and impact resistant but you can only do that on multi material printers (technically you can do it on all printers but it’s a royal pain) so you can’t do that on the QiDi yet because they haven’t released their multi material unit BUT it’s rumored that it’ll work with most of their printers including this one and it’s supposed to release anytime now. I’m waiting for that to release then if everything is good with the reviews I’m getting it and this printer because I’d rather just get another printer that’s high temp and enclosed than enclose my Prusa MK3S or I3 Mega and do all the necessary mods to it for 300c CF stuff

@@StayProteus Yes, PETG for the top most interface layer of supports for PLA prints is the best use of multi-material I've heard.

There is much to love about both. I am planning to do a "comparison of the giants" video: the Sovol SV08 vs FLSUN S1 Pro vs Creality K2 Plus Combo.

I am not sure what could have happened, but you will probably need to reflash your EMMC → kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqOmaa2Xi6h7r9U

Simply remove the single include line from your printer.cfg and switch back to using the original SV07+ presets in Orca Slicer.

Thank you for the info!

I am not sure what you mean. I did PID tuning. I show you how in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rp2XpXWdgsiosKM

@@gerGoPrint3D I was referring to the pid contained in the fan command lines (11:11 minutes), which I thought you would have made changes to the pid, but I now realized that John Hansknecht had already done it the way it is currently, I will use it the same way... thanks :)

@@leolagoa1 Oh, sorry, yes, there are updated values for that if you don't want it to start and stop too frequently, and yes, he has the updated values in the description of his video.

I did not remove or adjust those 4 in the center. You would need the strip off the magnetic layer for that. I just replaced the hard spacers with the silicone ones on the 4 corners. When adjusting the corner heights you'll need to remove and reinsert the PEI sheet a between measurements, as probing needs the metal sheet, but it's covering the screws you need to adjust. The ultimate solution would be to add leveling wheels under the bed (kind of how it was shown on the box of the printer, I am just disappointed they revised it for the production variants of the T300)

@@gerGoPrint3DThank you for answering that portion. Now I know I do not need to remove those. I removed the 4 in the corners and the stock little plastic spacers but the 18mm spacers I bought as you outlined are way to tall to fit in between the bed and the plate. Do I bend the plate? I can send a picture or video if that helps if you have a email. Thank you

@@darklorrdsith9771 Yes, unfortunately there are two versions of the T300, the newest ones come with shorter spacers. You can cut these ones to size though. Just make them about 4mm longer than the hard spacers you take out (because these will be compressed and they should be able to push the corners slightly higher than the fixed height spacer could). Can you please measure how long those are for you?

@@gerGoPrint3DThe stock spacers are 5mm what is a good size to make the silicone ones as 18 mm is way to big? Thank you for your help

@@darklorrdsith9771 I would cut them to 8-9mm. Please test. When installed using the screws you should be able to compress them by 2-3mm to get the exact hight that you need. As I don't have access to this version of the printer, please update us here how it went! Good luck 😊

Thanks for the request. I will show close ups of our prints. Speed and high details are mutually exclusive. If you want high detail you'll have to slow down, at least the outer walls and top most, bottom most layers. But that's just the nature of high speed printing, corners are literally being cut. Use high speed for drafting and functional parts, slow down for details. And the same goes for strength, layer adhesion, we can increase nozzle temps by a little, and printing with closed doors can help with layer separation with PETG, but for sufficiently strong parts you'll have to slow down. By adding modifier objects in FLSUN (Orca) Slicer you can strategically slow down printing in certain areas where you need extra strength or detail.

@@gerGoPrint3D You'd be surprised Pretty much, if I can stay within my input shaper reccomendations for max accel, I keep detail. My Voron 2.4 has 15k y an 25k x accel so I can go quite a bit faster than my T1 Pro while keeping detail. On my T1 Pro my max accel recommendation is <5k.

Thank you for the kind feedback. So far I have printed everything with closed door, relatively long prints out of PLA and PETG. No clogs. I think FLSUN did a good job of extruder cooling and part cooling. We'll have to see later how it's going to hold up in the summer when ambient temps are 10-15°C higher, but for now, in a room of 17-18°C ambient it can perfectly print with the door closed. I was warned about the extruder being prone to clog, but since this first video I have developed a smart macro to unload filament by retraction and so far I haven't had any problems with the extruder of the S1 Pro. Details coming in the next installment.

@ I'm quite pleased with the extruder on my T1 Pro as well, best thing on it for the money I think. While I'm disappointed with FLSun's business practices, it is quite a lot of printer for the money considering I paid $399 for my T1 Pro.

@@crashingsux That was an amazing deal!

Admittedly, it's still the honeymoon phase, but yes, I have a positive mindset about all my tech. Nothing is perfect, but we can make the most of it-and for me, that's part of the fun. Regarding the S1 Pro, there seems to be almost nothing that needs changing; it just works right out of the box. That said, now that I've developed a proper and seemingly reliable unload filament macro, I no longer dread switching filaments. As for SSH access, I'll do my best to provide feedback to FLSUN, but honestly, the only things I really use it for are creating system backups and generating resonance graphs. The ability to use regular Orca Slicer, fine-tune printer.cfg, enjoy unhindered access to Mainsail, and add or modify macros already gives me plenty of freedom-and I love it. Let me know if you'd like further refinements!

With all due respect, I strongly suspect that it isn't just your natural optimism. Other creators have publicly disclosed the terms and conditions of FLSun's agreement for providing a review model, specifically their editorial control of the content of your review to ensure you cast the product in a positive light and caveat any negative experiences with a note that FLSun are constantly working to improve the product with firmware updates. There's a reason they've been giving review copies to KZbinrs with 4-5k subs rather than the big name reviewers, and it's because most of them (Lonely Moses being the exception) wouldn't agree to those terms.

@jonathongable9734 no contract and no such terms. And I tell you plenty of negatives, which FLSUN saw not earlier than you. I might have been luckier (I tend to be with hardware, haven't had a lemon in 11 printers so far, though all need a bit of fixing which I enjoy). No editorial control, and I tell you the good with the bad, even if they never send a device again. If u have any questions I will respond best to my ability in the follow up

Thanks! This printer makes sounds unlike any other device I've heard before. Right now, I am printing PETG, and from the next room, it sounds like a group of turkeys. 😅 🦃

Nice! I've added a link to it in the description of the video

Good tip!

Some of us are tinkerers here 🤓, but I think anybody could profit from the ability to choose the slicer you like and control all your printers from there, without limitations.

It's not just the tinkerers, there are also the people who believe in honesty and in giving back to the open source community you take from. FLSun unfortunately has a shady history here, in the past they have used Klipper's open source work and outright lied about running on it, and to further the lie they have refused to open source their changes to Klipper which is legally required by Klipper's open source license. It's a weird thing they keep doing, still using klipper on newer printers, and still refusing to release the changes as required by the klipper license. I mean nobody is forcing them to use klipper, they could write their own software, but if you are going to use all of the work put into klipper to save some money, then why not just abide by the one request made of you when using klipper, and release their changes back to the community?

@@crashingsux There is hope, Sovol got so much better at this, some of their newest machines are fully open source and they are even giving back a little to Voron foundation financially too. You only need a couple of people at these companies that are willing to listen and change their mindset. I don't really understand the secrecy and restrictions, other than maybe making warranty service a bit more complicated if too much can be changed by users.

Thanks for the title, but we are just accidental "KZbinrs" mostly just average Joe and nephew 🤣 I guess that is the appeal for these companies to send us the devices. And btw we do have better tools (though not that much better),,, but the idea is to use the tools provided with the printer, that's part of the test. Only when I get really frustrated will I get my electric screwdriver out

@gerGoPrint3D but the tools provided by the printer are worse and make the experience terrible

@@NoMercyFtwbut that’s part of the test, if the tools provided suck so much then they can warn newer buyers ahead of time that using the tools are garbage. If I have all professional tools and buy this printer and build it with my professional tools I have zero issues, but what if this printer is literally unbuildable with the included tools? A new hobbyist who just bought the printer thinking that’s all they’d need isn’t going to be notified by the video that they need extra tooling to build the printer. That’s why they all build with the included tools. I’m sure every KZbinr with 7+ printers and making content online as a source of income all have better tooling than the original Allen keys (or at least I hope so, I couldn’t imagine always having to use the keys for maintenance and having to preform maintenance numerous times consecutively)

@Atomsk2 all the tools included in anything suck That's common knowledge

If this is someone's first printer and no tools, they should still be able to assemble it. But I think we have overstayed this topic. We agree, but might have a slightly different perspective on the purpose of such a video.

Appreciate the love! The S1 Pro is already a star 🌟, but with SSH access, it'll be the whole galaxy! 🌌

Not quite fully open, you can't upgrade the klipper version (it runs klipper 10, quite old), you can't add on common klipper upgrades like Klipper ShakeTune, and they have been actively trying to combat open source efforts that have given users SSH access.

@ Just Mainline Klipper it. There is SSH access and root access.

@@kampfwuffi Yes, that's the fix. I might do it later into owning the device. For now I want to make sure everything works with the stock fw

@ I have opened SSH access on mine but haven't upgraded klipper yet. I am aware of a few people that have lost ssh access again due to flsun releasing new updates to combat the current jailbreak.

Thank you for your interest! I am with you on prefering reliability and quality over speed, but sometimes it's also good to have an option for lightning fast results, and also with all the square base printers this is a good alternative to have an option for round models like your light box - into 3D scaning? And yes, this is right out of Star Trek, or Bladerunner, though both predict this type of technology much later, blows my mind to experience my childhood fantasies first hand. We are still waiting for full SSH credentials to be made available, here Sovol still has an edge in open source! But I too am encouraging FLSUN to match Sovol's commitment. Coming in the next video, the FLSUN slicer is a complete Orca implementation, but with many more filament presets than our SV08 came with. Not such a big deal to tune our own filaments, but still makes the software side of things more complete in case of the S1 Pro. I think the regular S1 did not originally come with this polished slicer/mobile app offering, so maybe Sovol could also level up with an SV08 "Pro" refresh (or just release a good set of presets :) See, I am already comparing the two machines, although that's only planned for a 3rd or 4th video about the S1 Pro. But that comparision will have one more monster printer in it (hint hint).

@@gerGoPrint3D - Thank you for your very interesting review! We should be calibrating and optimizing our settings for the brand and even color of filament that we use, with the excellent @Microswiss CHT high flow nozzle, the types of parts we print, etc., but printer manufacturers need to do a much better job supplying good generic profiles for PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU at a minimum, preferably with a fast and slow profile for each. It's not that difficult to create our own profiles but a printer should ship with good profiles so we can be immediately productive and have a good initial experience. So many companies copied Bambu hardware and offered their version at a slightly lower cost, thinking it was hardware and price that were important, completely missing the fact that Bambu was successful because they offered a reliable printer that was easy to use. If Sovol offers a PRO version of the SV08, I hope it has a thicker stress relieved aluminum print bed that warps much less, a higher quality temperature compensated 8 mm inductive prox or touch sensor for bed mesh probing, and WiFi that works. More LED lighting and a real Volcano nozzle would be nice too. Valerie Moore posted a part on Printables that prevents the pin from walking out in the SV08 extruder and causing under extrusion so they should fix that too. I'm very eager to see your large format 3D printer comparison. I know the FLSun S1 Pro is going to be the fastest, and I doubt the others will look half as nice, but I look forward to seeing how the FLSun compares in other areas.

I have something more interesting than the ACE from Sovol. But I cannot yet talk about it (oops, I already am). They did not send me the SV06ACE, though I am sure they would have if I asked for it. We are just getting a bit overwhelmed with printers. From the videos every being enhanced and replaced in there it looks more like an SV09 than just a refresh of the SV06.

I'm glad I could provide some viewing enjoyment for you 😉

Indeed they are magic to watch! Had and flsun qq-s as my first printer but as soon something goes out of alignment it's a nightmare to troubleshoot!