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Gerry Lopez on his Pipeline love affair, minimalism, and finding stillness in the water

  Рет қаралды 4,117

The Surfer's Journal

The Surfer's Journal

Күн бұрын

Hawaiian stylist Gerry Lopez couldn’t make a takeoff during his first time surfing Pipe in 1963 at age 13. Today, at 74, he is widely known as Mr. Pipeline, after having devoted most of his life to the famous patch of reef. His approach is the expression of a life lived in pursuit of stillness, mindfulness, and regard for the natural world. Sixty years after that inaugural and fateful session, Lopez sits down to talk with Jamie Brisick about the importance of having a meditative state of mind in and out of the water, the moment Pipeline clicked for him, why he doesn’t remember many of his waves, the relationship between yoga and surfing, and pathways to a higher consciousness.
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Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.
Music by Farmer Dave & the Wizards of the West.
Feature image by Tim Davis.

Пікірлер: 13
@Thurston.Howell.the.3rd
@Thurston.Howell.the.3rd 17 күн бұрын
Listened to this while mowing my lawn in TN. Man, I miss the ocean
@P.M.O.S.69
@P.M.O.S.69 19 сағат бұрын
Inspiring! 👍🏼 Whether we remember specific rides or not...I believe we all have images of those "Magic Moments" burned into our minds that keep us coming back for more.
@juswatchin2313
@juswatchin2313 2 ай бұрын
Just to hear your voice 🙌🏼Gerry🌺… No words can come close ⚛️🕉️☮️….🙌🏼🌊🏄🏽‍♂️🌈 Thank You 🙏🏼 💞🌎
@jkm3297
@jkm3297 10 ай бұрын
I have also noticed big similarities between the old Hawaiian ways and yoga, Mana and Prana included. Hula and Indian dance is another
@adamlorden5666
@adamlorden5666 Жыл бұрын
thanks for this, beautiful.
@AlanShirtsink
@AlanShirtsink 4 күн бұрын
He is special
@KooKaRoach727
@KooKaRoach727 7 ай бұрын
Love Gerry you can learn alot from him if you just 43:18 listen thx Mr lopez
@rebecca.shock22
@rebecca.shock22 4 ай бұрын
Jbz
@decadeca1000
@decadeca1000 9 ай бұрын
Let's actually ask questions and talk about Costco Gerry soft tops.
@ceeemm1901
@ceeemm1901 9 ай бұрын
Great interview. I always wonder though, with when these old surfers were kids and just decided to make their own surfboards, where did all the money suddenly come from? It aint cheap to buy blanks, resin, fibreglass, catalyst, surforms, saws, etc, etc.....when you're still at school.
@ericjorgensen8028
@ericjorgensen8028 8 ай бұрын
cheaper to buy a blank and other materials to build a board...and use what tools you have on hand, or maybe borrow the tools. Regardless of if the materials are not cheap themselves, they are cheaper than a new board ... You need to work with what you can afford
@AlanShirtsink
@AlanShirtsink 4 күн бұрын
@@ericjorgensen8028
@AlanShirtsink
@AlanShirtsink 4 күн бұрын
Blanks were $15 back then
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