Japanese Saws (GIW episode 31)

[@kevinhoppenworth6708]

I have three of these saws. I have used the western saws for as long as I can remember until this year and now after using the Japanese saw's I find it takes less effort to get a great cut. Loved the video very educational. Have recently followed your instruction on stance and it's changed everything on my quality of cuts. Thanks.

[@getintowoodwork]

Cheers Kevin. Pleased the stance tips have helped out - they're not for everyone, as our bodies all move a little differently, but it's a good place to start.

[@danielsolowiej]

Treasuring these videos, learning many things I did not know, especially the position of the body, Thank you!

[@getintowoodwork]

Cheers Daniel! These are the ways I have developed through using the saws, so they may differ from other sources. Heck, they may not be the best :-)

[@BDM_PT]

Hi there from Portugal, Nice info as always :D Obrigado(Thanks)

[@getintowoodwork]

Cheers :)

[@stevecollins9450]

Thanks Mitch. I have a few questions but it looks like you will be answering them in the future videos.

[@getintowoodwork]

Cheers Steve. Feel free to ask away - you may have something I've forgotten about

[@gunterschone8402]

Nice video, Mitch. You explained it well. I've read times that one when you work with Japanese saws. You should saw it without haste and haste, you should take your time. Otherwise you may get caught with the saw blades and the saw blades can then buckle or break.

[@getintowoodwork]

Thanks Gunter! That's quite right, one should not rush. But, that is counter to many Western ideas, and there is a possibility of buckling the saw - even the slightest buckle will ruin the way the saw works.

[@gunterschone8402]

That's right, Mitch. Some Japanese saws (laser honed) forgive minor flaws, but hand-crafted Japanese saws forgive nothing. They are either blue or white paper steel and cost a little more.

[@rredd7777]

I love Japanese saws. One thing I heard someone point out, and of course have now noticed, is that with the pull stroke cutting, sawdust can obscure the cut line. Any suggestions on ways to avoid this?

[@getintowoodwork]

Make the sawdust eject mainly on the opposite side to the marked cut line. If you observe how I was sawing using the bench-on-bench method, the marked line is on top, but the saw is cutting from top to bottom and so pulls the sawdust out below. You don't need to use a bench-on-bench though, simply adjust your grip and/or stance to achieve the same effect (stance isn't something rigid, I've just suggested what I find comfortable and accurate - a starting point if you like)

[@cheesegrater2018]

Great stuff Mitch! ...... "Half a dozen times as much work" ..... British people :D :D :D

[@getintowoodwork]

lol - cheers!

[@esa062]

The downside of hardened teeth is of course that they can't be sharpened. Once they get dull, the blade needs to be replaced. That's not a feature I like in tools. Having the ryoba between your fingers was a bit of a risky work method.

[@getintowoodwork]

Advantages and disadvantages to that, but that's a different video! It did look risky - never given it a though before! At least the line of force was away from me. No doubt the next time I do it I'll chop a finger off :-)

[@tomaslainas695]

i need to get at least one japanese saw :)

[@getintowoodwork]

See if you can try some at a store or show Tomas.

[@Frankowillo]

Amusing comment by The English Woodworker: (The Japanese) often sit on a rug and hold things with a foot and an arse.