Getting The Engine Ready For Install! | Rocker Mods | Triumph Herald 13/60 Restoration | Part 27

[@pauldobson2685]

The end float on the distributor drive was a good tip,i struggled with that in the past 👍

[@redfoxclassics]

Thanks Paul, funnily talking about that for the camera helped me get it straight in my head, normally it’d be something I could immediately visualise but for some reason it wasn’t going in that day!

[@alanarmstrong8369]

Hi Spotted your install of the alternator...you need to turn the lower mounting bolt (the long one) around, or you will never be able to remove it later without removing the radiator!

[@redfoxclassics]

Ooops, way too late now unfortunately. Hopefully I’ll have no need to remove the alternator any time soon though!

[@nickyalousakis3851]

you can still use the old rocker shaft even if it's worn.... you flip it upside down which puts the unworn side of the shaft on top where it doesn't matter as much. you can only do this on one rebuild though. it only works once.

[@redfoxclassics]

Well. Not on a small chassis triumph as the rocker shafts do not have rotational symmetry. Sounds like a false economy in the general case too!

[@nickyalousakis3851]

@@redfoxclassics -- you are right. our cars have a flat spot on the rocker shaft and cannot be rotated 180 degrees like some engines can.

[@Rich13-60]

I am slowly working my way through this series, and I had just had to comment on this one in particular. I am stunned at the difference in those rockers, NOS Vs brand new repro. I am also shocked at the response you say you get from the suppliers. This situation is nothing new however, during both the refurb of the Herald and when I rebuilt the 7, I also found these issues. I tend to email a official complaint these days and demand a response, sometimes I actually get that response and like you get told, well they are all like that. I then email back and say , well , if they are all like that and they are wrong you need to tell whoever is making them that they are indeed wrong. Occasionally that email causes an reimbursement of the cost of the part ( as happened with Paddocks recently) , but nothing else. Why can't the folks who make this stuff get it right ?, darn annoying. Are Vernier cam pulleys not available these days to enable you to get the cam timing spot on, I know 30 years ago they weren't so I had one made, but would have expected that being 2024 that one may be available by now ?. Oh and I have now scanned that manual on my phone as you suggested, and now need to try and get the pages in the right order as currently they aren'y, will keep you posted on that.

[@redfoxclassics]

I’ve heard a story of TR4 rockers being similarly badly machined (or, rather not machined!) However in this case I did have a bad batch I think, I’ve spoken to some local club members who also have just built a 13/60 engine and their rockers were just fine. The perhaps more annoying thing is that the threads for the adjusters are still imperial, but the new nuts are 12mm! I don’t know on the vernier pulley, for me it’d probably be overkill anyway.

[@andrewmcpoland9040]

It might be the video, but it also looks as if the rocker ratio is different between the NOS and new rockers, which would increase the valve lift?

[@redfoxclassics]

So I’m pretty sure the ratio is the same. When they’re on a shaft next to one another the pad centres line up as do the adjuster centres. It proved quite tricky to show on video so hopefully it is just that.

[@jonjoyce3188]

So annoying that someone goes to the effort of getting new parts made without sufficient attention to detail, I’d happily pay a bit more for original quality reproduction parts. Also you may have cut it, but did you centre the front crank seal before tightening up the timing cover?

[@redfoxclassics]

There is of course a chance this is just really poor QC, but I don’t have the energy to go find out. So I’m happy to be informed if I’m wrong, but I don’t know that the front crank seal can be centered? The timing cover is located on tight dowels so can’t move, and the crankshaft pulley where the seal rides goes through the easy way so you’re not pushing against the seal lip. Just double checked the manual and there’s nothing there either. I believe on the 6 cylinder (and probably later 4 cylinder?) engines it rides on the crankshaft so it’s possible to damage the seal when juggling with the timing chain tensioner etc to get it on?