Nice work. I am restoring a TR4a at the moment and have a similar amount of slow and painstaking bodywork repairs to make. Keep up the good work.

You patience working that piece of the inner wheel arch is admirable. Well done.

It take a lot of time to get those small panels with lots of shapes to fit correctly. You did a great job with that part of the wheel arch. Look forward to the next bit. Cheers Bob

Nice and straight! Excellent place to start

Take a look at Fitzee's Fabrications for ideas about making repair panels with basic hand tools. "Nothing fancy"...

I have exactly the same issue with my 68 Herald 13/60, the distributor looks setup for the Spitfire. I watched the video but the important part for me was when you rectified it so the rotor arm was facing the correct way for the Herald, but you fast forwarded the video and your back was covering what you were doing so i have no idea what you did to rectify the positioning of the rotor.... can you explain to me what you did please? im guessing you did something with the dog drive, but what did you do and how did you reposition it? Thanks in advance

Hi. Thanks for your time/efforts. I've been thinking to get one for a while. I dont know anything about Compressors (which I see as the biggest expense). Is your 3HP perfect or would you ideally have something different?

Wow I have never seen that part of the manual that discusses frame measurements, so it's good to know now that it exists and I will try hunt it down now. I will need to do the same at some point on my Spit mk3 as It has taken a shunt at some point and the body seems to be sitting over to one side a little when I look at the wheel arches and tire placement , I have a XYZ laser-level which I am thinking might be helpful in shooting those lines on the floor etc so when I get that far I give it a crack. Cheers for the video Kris. Oh P.S I also watched your vid on the sandblasting cab and yup you make some very valid points I hadn't thought of , reminded me as the cab was in the back of shot, Brought the same product here in New Zealand and it is very very slow to use sadly.

You have made some excellent progress and all looks good underside. Good luck. Bob

Progress and moving forward!! Glad the frame is good!!

Great to see another mk2 being restored. The door cards still have the chromed plastic strip that runs at the top of the card, super rare and unobtainable. Rear shock absorber mounts look rotten, it's a three skin layer to reinforce the body as the shock transmits loads through there. Many replace with brackets onto the chassis, the original design always feels better, I think Canley Classics sell the proper shaped panels. The screen surround bolts in and can be repaired, shared with TRs, so it is very expensive to buy second hand. To pull the tank, one needs to unbolt the long boot cover bracket that goes between the wheel arches. When re-building, think long and hard about good heat insulation at the front of the cabin.Cockpit heat being a known GT6 fault. There is a chap in Essex that restores Britax and Weathershield sunroofs, sorry cannot remember his name! Good luck with the car, I have owned one for a long time and love it.

Fix your sound

great project. love the britax top.

This paleontology is always a good time... remember to take lots of pictures. Looking forward to seeing the work

Overall looks pretty good. Should be a good series

Could be a lot worse. Worst thing looks to be the windscreen frame, but at least with the round tail GT6 you have a removable frame which is interchangeable with the equivalent Spitfires and TR’s, so should be able to find a better s/h one.

Hay New Music during the time lapse!! Yeh!!! The fuel tank is in great shape!! You know when digging in to rust repair you open a can of works every time!! Keep up the great work!

Hi Joe I would have it sand blasted matey to see the state of play 👌

That is a Triumph approved repair. Back in the 70's (working at an engine remanufacturers) we did many 4 and 6 cylinder repairs for Triumph main dealers in just that manner. Although maybe a tad neater.. 😜

LOL, well well well. I was only doing the same thing over the weekend prior to the 7 leaving me, thought I'd better get the worst of the dust and garbage off it before it was washed. Fairly sure my mate who was buying it would have called a black mariah to cart me off had he seen me, lol...

Would love a mk2 GT6, the best one, roundtail looks but with rotoflex. Good luck it, will certainly keep you busy for a while. Bonnet rust looks tricky, I think I’d send it away for chemical dipping, you really need to guarantee it’ has gone before painting, especially with a white car.

Look like a fun project!! Can't wait to watch this progress on this build!!

Looks like a lot of work, but well worth the effort. look forward to following your progress. All the best Bob

Wow, that's the basis for a really nice car, well done on finding it, my old mk3 Spit was rotten for the first 12 inches from the bottom upwards whereas yours looks in far better shape. Definitely looking forward to the ongoing resto on it. I must change my photo on here as the 7 left me today , just the Herald again which as you know it being brought back to life too. Thanks for the vids and a super project you have there. 👍

going through a GT6+ resto right now.

you can still use the old rocker shaft even if it's worn.... you flip it upside down which puts the unworn side of the shaft on top where it doesn't matter as much. you can only do this on one rebuild though. it only works once.

I'm glad it's the early one, I was never that keen on the later bodyshape, same goes for the way the Spits went too. Looking forward to some vids on this , all you need now is an Equipe and you have the full set, lol...

Thanks for the video very informative 😀👍

Been there, done that on my 12/50 last winter, not a whole lot of fun putting it back, especially as mine has two short bolts at the back rather than the later long one. Getting at the inner nuts it a right pain, but I count myself lucky my rear bushes did fit. I note that diff had a dab of white paint on the castle nut and underneath whereas mine had green, I thought the colour codes were to identify ratios, but since they’re both 4.11:1, it may mean something else? Afraid I can’t identify the make of your shocks this time 😊

I will keep this in mind with the seal direction when I get around to doing my Diff!

That's always a difficult job, right. you achieved a great job. I had to change the differential on my Stag, which is no easier than that of the Herald, spitfire or any of this range, Unfortunately it still has a little clunky noise but worse is I have a whine around 2500 - 3000 rev's. More checking when I have time. Cheers Bob

I was only just checking the backlash on mine today, and thankfully there is none ( well no more than is specified anyway) , nice to see the "old double nut" method being employed to remove the studs ( never had that method fail yet !) , a job I did last week. Darn shame about the nose seal, oh well can't be helped. Your way of blanking the two ( now) un-used holes off in the diff top was the same as I did, although despite my earlier logged way of blanking them off, this time I used PTFE tape on the plugs, just 4 turns was enough to seal them off nicely and then screwed in tightly to one thread below the surface of the diff. Oh and nice way of creating a drain point on the diff too, I am planning the same but instead of a normal plug, I will use a magnetic one ( similar to what you would use in the engine sump) . The clonking you think you can still hear, it isn't play in any of the UJ's is it ?, so half shafts or prop ?. Great vid anyway. 👍

I'd rather use a 50 odd year old new part than the rubbish we get given these days, the trouble I have had this week with so called "new" items, all sent back and money refunded thankfully. The part you have there is when companies cared about the products they sold, unlike today where it's all about profits and nothing to do with the quality of the item.

Any idea on it's return ?.

What will you do with all the extra space! GT6?

Nice trick with the broken spring. Looking forward to GT6 and spitfire engine rebuilds now

I am slowly working my way through this series, and I had just had to comment on this one in particular. I am stunned at the difference in those rockers, NOS Vs brand new repro. I am also shocked at the response you say you get from the suppliers. This situation is nothing new however, during both the refurb of the Herald and when I rebuilt the 7, I also found these issues. I tend to email a official complaint these days and demand a response, sometimes I actually get that response and like you get told, well they are all like that. I then email back and say , well , if they are all like that and they are wrong you need to tell whoever is making them that they are indeed wrong. Occasionally that email causes an reimbursement of the cost of the part ( as happened with Paddocks recently) , but nothing else. Why can't the folks who make this stuff get it right ?, darn annoying. Are Vernier cam pulleys not available these days to enable you to get the cam timing spot on, I know 30 years ago they weren't so I had one made, but would have expected that being 2024 that one may be available by now ?. Oh and I have now scanned that manual on my phone as you suggested, and now need to try and get the pages in the right order as currently they aren'y, will keep you posted on that.

Very good result for the Herald, and as you say, a bit iffy on the Spitfire, but no need to rush into anything major yet> nice work. Look forward to following your work on the GT 6. All the best and god luck. Bob

Ok 😊

On the arch repair you would be better replacing the whole arch this will come through in other places for sure you can’t see the rust but believe me it’s in other parts of that wheel arch good repairs but will not last shame to do it that way paint it and 12 months later have blisters in other bits.💪💪💪

Absolutely, I use it for the exact same thing, although I'm a coffee man rather than tea, lol.

I have been subscribed from very early on, and I LOVE your videos! As far as the excessive gap between the front of the door and the bonnet is concerned..........I wonder if it is misalignment of the bulkhead to rear tub? Loosen the six screws in front of the seats and push the passenger side of the bulkhead back a little and re-tighten? Adjust the bonnet backwards a little and the door hinges forward? This might be an issue depending on how the sill plates have been fitted (welded) but I suspect that the bulkhead might be slightly out of alignment, causing your door-to-bonnet gap to be so big? The only way to maintain the good bonnet-to-bulkhead gap under the window would therefore be to move the bulkhead back and readjust the bonnet?? Hope this rambling makes a bit of sense? Keep up the excellent work. Ken

Thanks for the vid, looks like the skin was a half decent panel, which is nice... Also, thanks for the mirror info at the end there, mine came without mirrors so I bought a pair , seems mine are the exact same type with the odd mounting plinth, I still haven't got around to fitting them yet but thanks to you I now know they are a "rawl plug" type affair with the base part, I also wasn't sure where folks mount them either what with the quarter light having to open as well. 👍

Great job fitting the door skin. I've only ever refitted a bottom of a door and about 10 inch of the skin. Great to see how you dressed it and finished it. Thanks for sharing your job son the Herald. Have a good week. Bob

Doors slow you down, all that weight, lol ... on 7's doors are a factory option !!, as is a windscreen, lol. Will mail you soon, I have a tech question please.

Those flares you were doing with a simple tool, were they bubble flares or a double flare?

Lovely job, as usual. I do like how you talk about the welding over a few days. Slow is sure and sure is fast

As per usual, great repairs. I guess all these companies that make repair panels ( I say all , it's probably 1 or 2 ?) are no longer using the original tooling, which even if they were , would be worn out by now, so we are perhaps lucky that they make them at all, despite the whole panel perhaps not being the correct shape. When my own MK3 spit was rebuilt in the early 90's, the welder who did all the fitting of panels said just how bad the panels were for fitment, the floor pans he said were dreadful, so this isn't a new thing really ( sadly) .

Nice work as always, never too sure how they get so rusty on the edges of the light panels I can’t think how water gets in there. Looks like your arch lips have been done before as originally that return lip would have been an inch wide so it definitely catches the inner arch, but looks like your plan would work. 👍 looking forward to seeing how the door skin goes 🤞 Jon

The Herald 1200 I had until a few years ago got rear ended twice, both times while I was stationary at traffic lights, both times by a white van at low speed. After the first accident, I spent months sourcing a suitable rear valance, painting it, fitting it correctly. Then the second trip out after repairing it, it happened again 🤦🏻‍♂