Nice work. I am restoring a TR4a at the moment and have a similar amount of slow and painstaking bodywork repairs to make. Keep up the good work.
@redfoxclassics3 күн бұрын
Thanks Richard. Hope the TR is progressing well. I kind of fancy building one of those myself eventually, though I’m less sure of that now with a GT6 in hundreds of bits!
@reddcocker643 күн бұрын
You patience working that piece of the inner wheel arch is admirable. Well done.
@bobspeller22255 күн бұрын
It take a lot of time to get those small panels with lots of shapes to fit correctly. You did a great job with that part of the wheel arch. Look forward to the next bit. Cheers Bob
@redfoxclassics4 күн бұрын
Thanks Bob. I got a little stuck this weekend trying to get my head round the completely missing bits from the rest of the bonnet. I’ve got an idea, we’ll see how it goes though!
@mikeg58776 күн бұрын
Nice and straight! Excellent place to start
@redfoxclassics4 күн бұрын
Yeah, having watched a few people work on monocoque cars, it’s nice to be able to ‘just’ start with a straight chassis!
@andrewmcpoland90406 күн бұрын
Take a look at Fitzee's Fabrications for ideas about making repair panels with basic hand tools. "Nothing fancy"...
@redfoxclassics6 күн бұрын
Yep, I’m already a Fitzee fan! Thanks though :) Karl at MakeItKustom is someone else I watch a lot and his tips have very much helped me improve my welding.
@andrewmcpoland90404 күн бұрын
Karl is a bit of a perfectionist. He doesn't fit my 'modus operandi '! 😂
@redfoxclassics4 күн бұрын
:D what I like about watching car body repair is that everyone can come up with a slightly different way of getting to the same result, so there’s almost always a new thing to learn.
@bradjames35557 күн бұрын
I have exactly the same issue with my 68 Herald 13/60, the distributor looks setup for the Spitfire. I watched the video but the important part for me was when you rectified it so the rotor arm was facing the correct way for the Herald, but you fast forwarded the video and your back was covering what you were doing so i have no idea what you did to rectify the positioning of the rotor.... can you explain to me what you did please? im guessing you did something with the dog drive, but what did you do and how did you reposition it? Thanks in advance
@redfoxclassics7 күн бұрын
Ah, yeah, I think I’d spoken about how to fit the drive dog in a previous video so wasn’t wanting to repeat myself. Forgetting of course people might watch one in isolation! The distributor drive dog has an asymmetric slot in the top which engages with the bottom of the distributor. If you want to alter the position of it then rotate the engine till it is at TDC on the compression stroke of number 1 cylinder. Remove the dizzy pedestal. Pull out the drive gear. Fit the drive gear to the base of the dizzy and note the orientation you need to get the rotor arm in the desired position. Put the drive dog back in place in that orientation. Push down on the drive dog and rotate the engine till the drive dog drops down and engages with the oil pump. Put the dizzy back and rotate the engine back to no 1 firing TDC. Check where the rotor arm points. If it’s wrong, try again but rotate the drive dog a few degrees from the ideal final position when you fit it back to the engine. Repeat till you get it right! Bit of a fiddle this job, but that’s the only way. Note the thickness of the gasket(s) under the dizzy pedestal is important, so you need to put back the same thickness of gasket(s) as you remove, or go through the process for setting the drive gear end float too.
@bradjames35557 күн бұрын
@@redfoxclassics Brilliant, thanks for the fast reply, perfect explanation, i will try that out, it will teach me to watch more videos then i might have seen your video on fitting the dog drive. Many thanks, and keep up the informative videos, 👍
@redfoxclassics6 күн бұрын
No worries, happy to help :) It’s more a lesson for me to be a bit clearer about what I’m doing I think rather than assuming people are watching everything I’ve made!
@twne83369 күн бұрын
Hi. Thanks for your time/efforts. I've been thinking to get one for a while. I dont know anything about Compressors (which I see as the biggest expense). Is your 3HP perfect or would you ideally have something different?
@redfoxclassics9 күн бұрын
My compressor does do everything I need to and I would struggle for space with anything with a larger tank. I bought the one with the highest CFM that would still run on a domestic 13A supply, (though I’ve since had a 16A circuit and socket fitted for other reasons, which was not that expensive). If you’re not U.K. based then I suspect power requirements will still be the limit on what compressor size you can have, but the details might differ!
@kristhompson811212 күн бұрын
Wow I have never seen that part of the manual that discusses frame measurements, so it's good to know now that it exists and I will try hunt it down now. I will need to do the same at some point on my Spit mk3 as It has taken a shunt at some point and the body seems to be sitting over to one side a little when I look at the wheel arches and tire placement , I have a XYZ laser-level which I am thinking might be helpful in shooting those lines on the floor etc so when I get that far I give it a crack. Cheers for the video Kris. Oh P.S I also watched your vid on the sandblasting cab and yup you make some very valid points I hadn't thought of , reminded me as the cab was in the back of shot, Brought the same product here in New Zealand and it is very very slow to use sadly.
@redfoxclassics11 күн бұрын
If you’ve not got a factory manual then if you search for vitessesteve there’s a website with electronic copies of a number of the manuals. If there’s not what you need there then shoot me an email and I can send scans of a few pages. Fingers crossed you don’t find anything majorly wrong though! Is your Spit a NZ assembled one? Yeah the blast cab could be better but still does alright. For me it wins out over wire brushing etc any day as it’s more effective and makes much less mess!
@bobspeller222513 күн бұрын
You have made some excellent progress and all looks good underside. Good luck. Bob
@redfoxclassics11 күн бұрын
Thanks Bob, and yep I think I’ve managed to buy something in decent condition for once :D
@TheLostWrenchGarage13 күн бұрын
Progress and moving forward!! Glad the frame is good!!
@redfoxclassics11 күн бұрын
Cheers. Best to know I’m starting from a good place!
@timbancroft648514 күн бұрын
Great to see another mk2 being restored. The door cards still have the chromed plastic strip that runs at the top of the card, super rare and unobtainable. Rear shock absorber mounts look rotten, it's a three skin layer to reinforce the body as the shock transmits loads through there. Many replace with brackets onto the chassis, the original design always feels better, I think Canley Classics sell the proper shaped panels. The screen surround bolts in and can be repaired, shared with TRs, so it is very expensive to buy second hand. To pull the tank, one needs to unbolt the long boot cover bracket that goes between the wheel arches. When re-building, think long and hard about good heat insulation at the front of the cabin.Cockpit heat being a known GT6 fault. There is a chap in Essex that restores Britax and Weathershield sunroofs, sorry cannot remember his name! Good luck with the car, I have owned one for a long time and love it.
@redfoxclassics13 күн бұрын
Thanks Tim! The door card trims were something I was meaning to check on so that’s handy info. Not much in the way of chrome left on them, but I’ve an idea of how to deal with that. The bracket between the wheel arches is welded on (on my car at least?) but as it will almost certainly need to come off for the wheel arch repairs then converting it to bolt on might be a good plan. I actually managed to find an early Spitfire windscreen frame in very good condition for only £61 delivered. Problem is it’s too good for me to want to cannibalise so I think I’ll be repairing mine. Might have a go at rebuilding the sunroof myself, got a bit of time to think about that though as there’s plenty to do!
@nickforder820217 күн бұрын
Fix your sound
@nickyalousakis385119 күн бұрын
great project. love the britax top.
@redfoxclassics17 күн бұрын
Thanks! I’m excited to get on with it. The sunroof will be something of a challenge to rebuild but yeah I like it too.
@mikeg587719 күн бұрын
This paleontology is always a good time... remember to take lots of pictures. Looking forward to seeing the work
@redfoxclassics17 күн бұрын
Yeah I actually slipped a bit on photography after starting filming, and have suffered a bit for it. So have learned my lesson there.
@HenrysGarage19 күн бұрын
Overall looks pretty good. Should be a good series
@redfoxclassics17 күн бұрын
Yeah it’s not too bad, it’s clearly had repairs in the past, but they look to have been done competently which is a refreshing change!
@jonjoyce318820 күн бұрын
Could be a lot worse. Worst thing looks to be the windscreen frame, but at least with the round tail GT6 you have a removable frame which is interchangeable with the equivalent Spitfires and TR’s, so should be able to find a better s/h one.
@redfoxclassics17 күн бұрын
They’re not quite interchangeable as the fixings are different. However I have just bought a spare screen frame which looks to have the hard to make outer sections intact. So I guess we’ll see what the best way forward is!
@TheLostWrenchGarage20 күн бұрын
Hay New Music during the time lapse!! Yeh!!! The fuel tank is in great shape!! You know when digging in to rust repair you open a can of works every time!! Keep up the great work!
@redfoxclassics17 күн бұрын
This one is at least a much smaller can of worms than my Spitfire was, I can tell that for sure already!
@TheLostWrenchGarage17 күн бұрын
@@redfoxclassics Good to hear that!!
@user-kf1do1um8z20 күн бұрын
Hi Joe I would have it sand blasted matey to see the state of play 👌
@redfoxclassics17 күн бұрын
Good idea in principle, but finding someone to do it who can cope with thin steel is something I’ve never managed. I’m considering sending it for chemical dipping, but that’ll be pricy, plus transport costs…
@garysweetland3223 күн бұрын
That is a Triumph approved repair. Back in the 70's (working at an engine remanufacturers) we did many 4 and 6 cylinder repairs for Triumph main dealers in just that manner. Although maybe a tad neater.. 😜
@redfoxclassics17 күн бұрын
Interesting to know! The engine rebuilders who made me a new thrust washer in the end thought whoever had gone before knew what they were doing, so hopefully should last a good while!
@garysweetland3217 күн бұрын
@@redfoxclassics Oddly enough, the Automatics where the worst. Strange as there was no pressure from the clutch obviously. I will be making a new steel rear main bearing cap for my Vitesse. With enough meat to cut a register for extra washers. Line boring it and fitting a Ford Pinto full thrust (4 half washers) rather than the Triumph half thrust (2). It is a slightly larger diameter and a smaller bore. But the same thickness is the same as the Triumph. So I'll have to modify the block as well to accept the wider thrust.
@redfoxclassics14 күн бұрын
That is odd. Interesting to hear about your mod plans. What sort of equipment will you be using to machine the thrust washer recess inside the block? I can’t think of how that might be done and I’m really curious!
@garysweetland3213 күн бұрын
@@redfoxclassics Hopefully I can use my bridgeport mill with a riser block and it's 90 degree head. But in the day we used to turn up running bushes to fit in the main bearing housings and use a bar through the centre that could hold a hand ground cutter. Part of it was from an old line boring kit, and it had a hand crank and an advancing screw to control the cut. I might end up with a hybrid of both. But first I've a lot of rust to chase out of the car.
@redfoxclassics10 күн бұрын
Ahhh, right. 90 degree mill heads being available is obvious when you think about it, but I hadn’t thought of that! Hope the rust repair is going alright.
@Rich13-6024 күн бұрын
LOL, well well well. I was only doing the same thing over the weekend prior to the 7 leaving me, thought I'd better get the worst of the dust and garbage off it before it was washed. Fairly sure my mate who was buying it would have called a black mariah to cart me off had he seen me, lol...
@redfoxclassics17 күн бұрын
:D well at least yours had a little less than 40 years of dirt! Glad it’s going to a friend too so you’ll know it’s in decent hands.
@jonjoyce318826 күн бұрын
Would love a mk2 GT6, the best one, roundtail looks but with rotoflex. Good luck it, will certainly keep you busy for a while. Bonnet rust looks tricky, I think I’d send it away for chemical dipping, you really need to guarantee it’ has gone before painting, especially with a white car.
@redfoxclassics25 күн бұрын
Yes I was thinking along the same lines. The body has a lot of surface rust too so I do want to be very sure that’s all very much removed!
@TheLostWrenchGarage26 күн бұрын
Look like a fun project!! Can't wait to watch this progress on this build!!
@redfoxclassics25 күн бұрын
Thanks! Hopefully it’ll go pretty quickly, first challenge will be getting the bonnet right.
@bobspeller222527 күн бұрын
Looks like a lot of work, but well worth the effort. look forward to following your progress. All the best Bob
@redfoxclassics25 күн бұрын
Cheers Bob, looking forward to it too!
@Rich13-6027 күн бұрын
Wow, that's the basis for a really nice car, well done on finding it, my old mk3 Spit was rotten for the first 12 inches from the bottom upwards whereas yours looks in far better shape. Definitely looking forward to the ongoing resto on it. I must change my photo on here as the 7 left me today , just the Herald again which as you know it being brought back to life too. Thanks for the vids and a super project you have there. 👍
@redfoxclassics25 күн бұрын
My Spitfire was similar once all the bodgery had been removed… So looking forward to working on something in better condition. It’s always hard letting one go… your herald is looking set to be a great one though.
@enochhammer7027 күн бұрын
going through a GT6+ resto right now.
@redfoxclassics25 күн бұрын
Nice! Hope it’s progressing well.
@nickyalousakis385129 күн бұрын
you can still use the old rocker shaft even if it's worn.... you flip it upside down which puts the unworn side of the shaft on top where it doesn't matter as much. you can only do this on one rebuild though. it only works once.
@redfoxclassics29 күн бұрын
Well. Not on a small chassis triumph as the rocker shafts do not have rotational symmetry. Sounds like a false economy in the general case too!
@nickyalousakis385129 күн бұрын
@@redfoxclassics -- you are right. our cars have a flat spot on the rocker shaft and cannot be rotated 180 degrees like some engines can.
@Rich13-60Ай бұрын
I'm glad it's the early one, I was never that keen on the later bodyshape, same goes for the way the Spits went too. Looking forward to some vids on this , all you need now is an Equipe and you have the full set, lol...
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
I like the square tail GT6 better than the square tail Spitfire, so when I was looking I would’ve considered all models! Actually was enquiring about a Mk1 and the seller said it was sold, but he did have a mk2! Never been taken with the Bonds, and my 13/60 should now be approaching the power of a mk1 Vitesse but without the extra engine weight, so I don’t need one of those either :D
@paulmuff9883Ай бұрын
Thanks for the video very informative 😀👍
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Thanks Paul, glad it was useful and appreciate you saying so!
@jonjoyce3188Ай бұрын
Been there, done that on my 12/50 last winter, not a whole lot of fun putting it back, especially as mine has two short bolts at the back rather than the later long one. Getting at the inner nuts it a right pain, but I count myself lucky my rear bushes did fit. I note that diff had a dab of white paint on the castle nut and underneath whereas mine had green, I thought the colour codes were to identify ratios, but since they’re both 4.11:1, it may mean something else? Afraid I can’t identify the make of your shocks this time 😊
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Well yeah that sounds worse… I assumed the white paint on mine was an artefact of it sitting around in a workshop for years, so interesting that it may not be. I couldn’t spot anything similar on the one I took off the car, even after scraping off most of the filth. Maybe it’s nothing more than an indicator that ‘this is fully assembled and ready to fit’? Shame there wasn’t enough of the label to ID the shock manufacturer, there’s not enough text to even guess at a name to search on. I found it interesting that they were metallic blue though, seems to have been a popular colour for aftermarket shocks at one point.
@jonjoyce3188Ай бұрын
@@redfoxclassics possibly, would be interesting to know from someone who worked at Canley. I was thinking along the lines of the front springs where they put a stripe of coloured paint on them to indicate which car they were for (Heralds had a white stripe). Your right I’ve had Motorcraft, Monroe and even SPAX used to be metallic blue. The original Woodhead or Girling shocks were a mid dark grey colour.
@TheLostWrenchGarageАй бұрын
I will keep this in mind with the seal direction when I get around to doing my Diff!
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Yeah don’t do what I did! I’m told I got lucky with the bearings though, apparently they’re often so difficult to move that cutting them off is the only way, so probably worth getting some spares in before you start.
@bobspeller2225Ай бұрын
That's always a difficult job, right. you achieved a great job. I had to change the differential on my Stag, which is no easier than that of the Herald, spitfire or any of this range, Unfortunately it still has a little clunky noise but worse is I have a whine around 2500 - 3000 rev's. More checking when I have time. Cheers Bob
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Thanks Bob. Oh dear, hope it’ll keep going till winter at least! This was a job that had me seriously researching two post lifts for low ceiling garages…
@Rich13-60Ай бұрын
I was only just checking the backlash on mine today, and thankfully there is none ( well no more than is specified anyway) , nice to see the "old double nut" method being employed to remove the studs ( never had that method fail yet !) , a job I did last week. Darn shame about the nose seal, oh well can't be helped. Your way of blanking the two ( now) un-used holes off in the diff top was the same as I did, although despite my earlier logged way of blanking them off, this time I used PTFE tape on the plugs, just 4 turns was enough to seal them off nicely and then screwed in tightly to one thread below the surface of the diff. Oh and nice way of creating a drain point on the diff too, I am planning the same but instead of a normal plug, I will use a magnetic one ( similar to what you would use in the engine sump) . The clonking you think you can still hear, it isn't play in any of the UJ's is it ?, so half shafts or prop ?. Great vid anyway. 👍
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
I went with a non magnetic plug as the general recommendation of the internet was for a smaller one than that used on the engine and gearbox of the small chassis Triumphs, and I didn’t manage to find a magnetic one (attempted to buy drill, tap and plug from one supplier but failed at that too!). On top of that the generally available Bastuck magnetic drain plugs are copper washer seal style, and so won’t seal on the diff or gearbox cases unless they’re machined (realised that the hard way on the Spitfire gearbox…) The remaining noises I think are rear suspension related. Quite intermittent and I can’t find any cause. They’re not consistent with UJ failure though. Will be keeping an eye and an ear out.
@Rich13-60Ай бұрын
I'd rather use a 50 odd year old new part than the rubbish we get given these days, the trouble I have had this week with so called "new" items, all sent back and money refunded thankfully. The part you have there is when companies cared about the products they sold, unlike today where it's all about profits and nothing to do with the quality of the item.
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Unfortunately when I looked closer the rubber was breaking up, which is a real shame.
@Rich13-60Ай бұрын
Any idea on it's return ?.
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
No, it’s going to be in a fair old queue. Not like I’m short of cars to play with though :D
@mikeg5877Ай бұрын
What will you do with all the extra space! GT6?
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Yep, finally can get on with it!
@HenrysGarageАй бұрын
Nice trick with the broken spring. Looking forward to GT6 and spitfire engine rebuilds now
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
I’m glad that worked, I really didn’t want to have to take the head off!
@Rich13-60Ай бұрын
I am slowly working my way through this series, and I had just had to comment on this one in particular. I am stunned at the difference in those rockers, NOS Vs brand new repro. I am also shocked at the response you say you get from the suppliers. This situation is nothing new however, during both the refurb of the Herald and when I rebuilt the 7, I also found these issues. I tend to email a official complaint these days and demand a response, sometimes I actually get that response and like you get told, well they are all like that. I then email back and say , well , if they are all like that and they are wrong you need to tell whoever is making them that they are indeed wrong. Occasionally that email causes an reimbursement of the cost of the part ( as happened with Paddocks recently) , but nothing else. Why can't the folks who make this stuff get it right ?, darn annoying. Are Vernier cam pulleys not available these days to enable you to get the cam timing spot on, I know 30 years ago they weren't so I had one made, but would have expected that being 2024 that one may be available by now ?. Oh and I have now scanned that manual on my phone as you suggested, and now need to try and get the pages in the right order as currently they aren'y, will keep you posted on that.
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
I’ve heard a story of TR4 rockers being similarly badly machined (or, rather not machined!) However in this case I did have a bad batch I think, I’ve spoken to some local club members who also have just built a 13/60 engine and their rockers were just fine. The perhaps more annoying thing is that the threads for the adjusters are still imperial, but the new nuts are 12mm! I don’t know on the vernier pulley, for me it’d probably be overkill anyway.
@bobspeller2225Ай бұрын
Very good result for the Herald, and as you say, a bit iffy on the Spitfire, but no need to rush into anything major yet> nice work. Look forward to following your work on the GT 6. All the best and god luck. Bob
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Thanks Bob! GT6 is nearly here, mostly my video editing speed that's slowing things up :D
@annabellbarbaraszuhanyik9576Ай бұрын
Ok 😊
@neilwharton720Ай бұрын
On the arch repair you would be better replacing the whole arch this will come through in other places for sure you can’t see the rust but believe me it’s in other parts of that wheel arch good repairs but will not last shame to do it that way paint it and 12 months later have blisters in other bits.💪💪💪
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
See the next episode :D
@Rich13-60Ай бұрын
Absolutely, I use it for the exact same thing, although I'm a coffee man rather than tea, lol.
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Funny, I’ll take tea in to the garage, but coffee time is usually also break time! Hadn’t thought about that before.
@kenrobertson4140Ай бұрын
I have been subscribed from very early on, and I LOVE your videos! As far as the excessive gap between the front of the door and the bonnet is concerned..........I wonder if it is misalignment of the bulkhead to rear tub? Loosen the six screws in front of the seats and push the passenger side of the bulkhead back a little and re-tighten? Adjust the bonnet backwards a little and the door hinges forward? This might be an issue depending on how the sill plates have been fitted (welded) but I suspect that the bulkhead might be slightly out of alignment, causing your door-to-bonnet gap to be so big? The only way to maintain the good bonnet-to-bulkhead gap under the window would therefore be to move the bulkhead back and readjust the bonnet?? Hope this rambling makes a bit of sense? Keep up the excellent work. Ken
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Thanks Ken, really appreciate that! The bulkhead is the bit on the car that’s not adjustable (the front two bolts on the outriggers hold it in place and they’re tight tolerance), and this gap has never been great. So I’m inclined to suspect the bonnet is the thing that’s out, but it can’t go further back on that side without hitting the scuttle. I spent a loooong time fiddling trying to improve it after I had the bulkhead off… Sounds like you have a Herald or Vitesse too?
@kenrobertson4140Ай бұрын
Yes, I had forgotten about that. I did this before but that car had obviously had the front outrigger wrongly placed and I had to "move" the bulkhead by filing out the mounting hole in the bulkhead mount. I have also seen this bracket out of alignment when the bulkhead is "bashed". Have found that the most important gap to start with is normally the bonnet to scuttle, and if that is right then everything else can usually be adjusted, as you say. Have got various Heralds/Vitesse/Spitfire/GT6/Bond. Regards
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Yeah I’m pretty sure I’m the first person to remove this car’s bulkhead, that the outrigger was replaced to match, and I deliberately left more of the floor on the left side (I nearly messed up the right side as I didn’t realise I’d introduced a bit of a twist and had to cut stuff apart again). So I am blaming the bonnet for that gap, but can’t get it back far enough, you know how it goes! So I settled for getting it back to how it looked before. Sounds quite the collection! Hoping to get on with my GT6 very shortly.
@Rich13-60Ай бұрын
Thanks for the vid, looks like the skin was a half decent panel, which is nice... Also, thanks for the mirror info at the end there, mine came without mirrors so I bought a pair , seems mine are the exact same type with the odd mounting plinth, I still haven't got around to fitting them yet but thanks to you I now know they are a "rawl plug" type affair with the base part, I also wasn't sure where folks mount them either what with the quarter light having to open as well. 👍
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Cheers! Yeah it wasn’t bad. The modern ones are supposed to be OK too, but the one I got wasn’t. Might be difficult to tell our cars apart (except for the roof) shortly!
@bobspeller2225Ай бұрын
Great job fitting the door skin. I've only ever refitted a bottom of a door and about 10 inch of the skin. Great to see how you dressed it and finished it. Thanks for sharing your job son the Herald. Have a good week. Bob
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Thanks Bob. I would’ve liked to save the skin that was on the donor shell, but it was very dented so had to cut it off!
@Rich13-60Ай бұрын
Doors slow you down, all that weight, lol ... on 7's doors are a factory option !!, as is a windscreen, lol. Will mail you soon, I have a tech question please.
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Well, can't deny Herald doors are heavy :D Yep happy to help if I can!
@robames1293Ай бұрын
Those flares you were doing with a simple tool, were they bubble flares or a double flare?
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
The kit I have will do both. You have a little die to make the initial bubble, then that gets removed and the screw down press part of the tool alone is used to do the double flare as it has a tapered point.
@robames1293Ай бұрын
@@redfoxclassics Thanks for that, I need to make a bubble flare on an existing brake line that would require the engine and gearbox removal to replace. I don't think your setup would be able to be used in the confined space though. It needs a bubble flare to go into the old "tin can" style master cylinder. Best wishes from Australia
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
The setup I have wouldn’t do steel lines either, and I think you guys can’t use copper or cunifer? Or does that vary by state? (Used to live in Perth but didn’t get to do much car stuff while there)
@robames1293Ай бұрын
@@redfoxclassics Here in SA I have never seen anything other than steel lines.
@HenrysGarageАй бұрын
Lovely job, as usual. I do like how you talk about the welding over a few days. Slow is sure and sure is fast
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Thanks Henry, yeah I'll do an hour or two each evening / afternoon if I can and just chip away at it!
@Rich13-60Ай бұрын
As per usual, great repairs. I guess all these companies that make repair panels ( I say all , it's probably 1 or 2 ?) are no longer using the original tooling, which even if they were , would be worn out by now, so we are perhaps lucky that they make them at all, despite the whole panel perhaps not being the correct shape. When my own MK3 spit was rebuilt in the early 90's, the welder who did all the fitting of panels said just how bad the panels were for fitment, the floor pans he said were dreadful, so this isn't a new thing really ( sadly) .
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Thanks :) Some panels are pressed on original tooling, but you're right they're showing their age (I've had various different ages of Rover marked Spitfire sills and modern BMH ones and you can see the differences as the press dies have aged). That arch panel perhaps saved me a day, but it wouldn't be much use if someone needed more of it than I did...
@jonjoyce3188Ай бұрын
Nice work as always, never too sure how they get so rusty on the edges of the light panels I can’t think how water gets in there. Looks like your arch lips have been done before as originally that return lip would have been an inch wide so it definitely catches the inner arch, but looks like your plan would work. 👍 looking forward to seeing how the door skin goes 🤞 Jon
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Thanks Jon. In this case the left side was not rusty and had a good braze joint filling the seam with the wing top panel, the right side had a blob of brass and a gap, so I’m assuming that’s how the water was getting in. On the lip, there was a bit of original metal remaining, and that was fairly narrow and spot welded right on the edge. Maybe I’d just lost some of the very edge to rot, difficult to be sure though!
@peterwalker6446Ай бұрын
The Herald 1200 I had until a few years ago got rear ended twice, both times while I was stationary at traffic lights, both times by a white van at low speed. After the first accident, I spent months sourcing a suitable rear valance, painting it, fitting it correctly. Then the second trip out after repairing it, it happened again 🤦🏻♂
@redfoxclassicsАй бұрын
Oh no! That must’ve been extremely frustrating. Hopefully I shall not suffer the same fate…