Getting the Most Out of Your Blichmann BrewEasy

[@scottfremont13]

Hey Dana, thanks for the video. I've been using my BrewEasy since January 2015. I watched John brew using his set up at the 2014 NHC in Michigan, but missed when he started his mash and any chemical adjustments he may have made. We talked a little but didn't go into any significant detail. He did mention the probable need to lower your pH due to a "full volume" mash. Your video helped me understand water adjustments, a lot. I think I'll tackle that next. Prior to this, instead of playing with the water chemistry, I made a "jacket/hat" using two layers of Reflectix that I placed on the mash kettle. I perform a little thinner than typical mash (1.5-1.75 qt/lb). Wrapped the kettle in my jacket and did not recirculate until I was ready to sparge. The jacket holds the temp well...I may lose 2-3 degrees over an hour. Before I spage, I use the pump to vorlauf and remove any grain bits before I recirculate and sparge. I never looked to see how many bits are actually filtered out before I run off into the boil kettle...this could be a waste of time on my part. I'm going to give the water adjustments a try, it should knock some time off my brew day.

[@danamessier5034]

+Scott Fremont Glad you enjoyed! Let me know how it turned out for you!

[@sannesad1]

Great video on the Brew Easy, I wish there were more like this out there. One thing I noticed is the tray type thing that your LTE stand sits on. I don't think it was talked about in the video, but this is so important to keep excess liquid and spillage in one spot and not all over your floors. I use a 4 inch oil drip tray that works well with mine. Great video!

[@kerryhales8736]

One tip I could give is to chill the conical down to about 40F before you pump in the hot wort. This has saved me a lot of time chilling. Our water here is also around 73-75F in the summer.

[@danamessier5034]

+Kerry Hales yep I do that as well now!

[@silveraven1]

Thanks for the video. It’s hard to find how to videos on this system. Do you have a link for those SS quick connects? Having trouble finding them at a reasonable price.

[@greatfermentations]

Here's a link to the kit we put together for them: shop.greatfermentations.com/product/ss-quick-disco-kit-breweasy/blichmann-breweasy

[@bradjohnson462]

If you know the degrees difference in your probe reading and the temp of the water as it recirculates, you can also recalibrate the ToP controller to a 2º offset.

[@jesserodriguez3482]

this information is exactly what i was looking for.

[@johnrankin6044]

Great video. Thanks for the demo. You have some great equipment and a good process. A couple things- The author of Bru'n water advises adding acid and other mineral additions at room temp. Also, Ive read in multiple places that pH meters can be ATC'd, but their accuracy is not as good and the probe lifetime decreases much quicker. Braukaiser has a good writeup on meters. How do you like your Brewbit?

[@danamessier5034]

+John Rankin Thanks for the tips, John. It's actually a brew bug, and i really like it

[@nickmadaffer7007]

Way to go! This is excellent info on the BrewEasy

[@hhart6266]

This is an outstanding resource - thank you so much!

[@markschiess6273]

Very helpful. Very Informative. Thank you. Using next week to tune and calculate.

[@EricDeLaRosa]

Great video. FedEx is delivering mine tomorrow. I can't wait.

[@robertrobillard3318]

Great video! watched twice before using 20 gallon (240) system for the 1st time this past weekend. One thing we noticed is during the boil the temp in the kettle seems to max out at 212° with the tower in the "on" position (full power). Concerned that on a cold day might have a problem hitting 212° as it was 90° on brew day. Have you had any issues reaching boil on cold days? Blichmann said they've had no issues with the electric systems. Interested in your thoughts!

[@greatfermentations]

Robert - We've brewed with the Tower of Power setup hundreds of times, and haven't run into that issue in the cold! Thanks for the comment, and let us know if you have any other questions. Cheers! Bryan

[@coffinspire15]

Great video! I have a question regarding how much water is in each vessel. After you preheat all of the water in the bottom, then you move half (??) to the mash, with the other half in the bottom? Then my second question is after the mash is complete and you drain into the bottom. It seems that (based off of my above assumption of half in each) that only half of the water is draining through the grain bed. Is this correct, or do you need to move all of the water up to the mash to drain it all through at the end?? Thanks.

[@MikeLisching]

Awesome video! Thanks! The tip on the quick disconnects sounds great. What disconnects do you recommend? Is it worth having a valve?

[@danamessier5034]

+Mike Listing Hey Mike, I use the QD's from MoreBeer.com... they are outstanding.

[@RichardJohnson-et5jn]

Great video thank you. What fridge/freezer do you have for your fermenter? Beverage Air something? And do you recommend a fermenter? Prices on those large fridges look expensive

[@danamessier5034]

+Richard Johnson Yes it's a Beverage Air... 12 cubic foot model I believe... Your standard gas station tropicana/pepsi fridge. I use SS Brew Tech's half barrel chronical and have had good luck with it for the price point. Thanks for watching!

[@brianbearden3791]

Great video, I've watched it twice as I'm looking hard at this system. In effort to trim some of the cost (and personal preference), I am considering this system but without the ability to stack. I would rather have a side-by-side system since space is not an issue for me. I also don't think I need an auto sparge since I usually watch the process like a hawk, plus it would be something else to set up, take down, and clean. I am just wondering if there are any other considerations I am not thinking about.

[@greatfermentations]

Brian - Bryan here from Great Fermentations. You can definitely have the pots side by side, but I'm not sure how much it will trim cost as you would need two pumps! In terms of the AutoSparge, I highly suggest you get that. The way the system is designed, you are draining from the mash tun, slower than you are returning to the mash tun. So, if you don't have an Autosparge you will without a doubt overflow the mash tun unless you are continuously throttling the pump to slow the return back to the mash tun. With the Autosparge, it does this all for you though! Let us know if you have any other questions. Cheers! Bryan

[@brianbearden3791]

+Great Fermentations Thanks for the information. I knew there would be something I didn't think of. However, as far as the pump issue goes, couldn't I simply switch the hoses when I comes time to fill the boil kettle?

[@greatfermentations]

You're welcome! You'll still need two pumps if you want the pots side by side, as you are moving liquid between two vessels during the mash. MT > BK > MT. Let me know if that makes sense. Cheers! Bryan

[@Steve-ze3kl]

I really want this system but for me the worst part of brew day is cleaning. I would like it with tri-clamp fittings and and no sight glasses. Is it possible to order this way or would I have to just build one similar to the brew easy?

[@greatfermentations]

Steve - There are some options for you. Give us a call at 888-HME-BREW (888-463-2739), ask for Bryan, and I can talk you through them. Cheers! Bryan

[@johnlitak2928]

Dana, I'm a little disappointed with the efficiency I'm getting with the BrewEasy. My last couple batches were around 62% (American Stout, a Pale Ale, and an IPA - targets in the 5-6.5% abv, so nothing crazy). This is causing me to buy more grains and having a pretty stuffed mash tun! What am I missing? For a 10 gallon batch, I'm starting with about 16.5 gallons of water. I'm using brewing salts to adjust my water pH - I saw that you recommend at least 100ppm calcium, my last brew adjusted it to about 75, I'm skeptical that I'm losing 10% efficiency there... I rake the top 1/3 every 15 minutes. I raise the temp to 170 to mash out. I swap orifices for the drain. My grain is crushed at the store, I haven't asked them for the size yet. When I was doing BIAB, I would have them "double" crush and would get about 70% efficiency. I don't want to get a stuck mash though! How are you crushing? Any other tips?

[@sheaobrien7485]

John Litak John I’m having the same problem with efficiency. I’m doing everything in the video and you are minus a fine crush. I’m hoping a year has had time for you to find an answer?

[@philmcd6332]

Nice video, I'm not quite all the way through it. Wanted to know what kind of garden hose that is because it's stuck in my mind ... 'all that shiny stainless and he's putting putrid tasting garden hose water into it'. I see the water filter, does it take care of the off-taste from garden hoses or is that some type of non vinyl maybe pvc based hose or what? Thanks.

[@danamessier5034]

+Phil McD Hey there... it's a food grade hose, you can pick them up anywhere that sells RV accessories, etc.... used for filling potable water tanks in boats and RVs. No flavors imparted by that hose.

[@kerryhales8736]

Dana, did you calculate your grain temperature when you did your calculations? I assume you did, but I was thinking the grain was somewhat colder than you calculated. Anyway, I have the BE and this was very helpful!

[@danamessier5034]

+Kerry Hales Yeah, I sure did, but its usually more of an educated guess on that figure... you could be right :)

[@caipiwhatever]

Thank you Dana, this video has been incredibly helpful. Love the water calc sheet, and got the gloves! Also use your therminator sanitization method - perfect. Only question I have is, why bother with the 10 minute 172 degree step at the end? Once you have achieved your target pre-boil gravity, why not just drain straight out into the brew kettle, ramping up the temp at the same time? The Lautering chapter in Palmer states that heating up to >170 helps make the grain bed and wort more fluid, especially if the temperature has dropped to below 140 degrees. But using the BrewEasy, I don't think this is relevant...It's all been flowing round and round continuously, and at the perfect temperature. So I think you can save 10 minutes and a bit of electricity...But please tell me if you disagree! Thanks again for this superb video.

[@danamessier5034]

+Steve Hocken Thanks for the kind words! Ramping the temp also helps finish out conversion, have seen a few extra gravity points by doing it :)

[@donhelman9246]

Great video, just have a question about your clean up at the end of your brew day. Do you let the pump run over night and what is your water to PBW ratio?

[@danamessier5034]

Hey Don. No i don't circulate overnight. I circulate for about 15 minutes then shut everything down and let it sit and soak. As far as the PBW ratio, I use as directed on the back of the package for a single clean of a brew kettle. This is plenty strong enough if you let it soak overnight.

[@craigdaniellebachar8220]

Dana Messier....Great video. I appreciate the time you put into it. I have been brewing for close to 20 years and in the last two went to a Grainfather for the ease but this system looks great and I could brew larger batches. I saw you are in Sarasota because I live in Osprey and would love some solid advice for a system like this one and how you put in the disconnects and how you ran your hoses......your feedback would be much appreciated.

[@danamessier5034]

Craig & Danielle Bachar hey craig! I'd be happy to show you my system in person if you ever get a chance, you are just down the road! As far as the QD's, they are pretty simple. Great Fermentations offers several different versions to suit a number of applications... they can be attached via NpT threads, hose barbs, etc. check out their site for all the different kinds. Look me up on Facebook or twitter (@4dwm) if you'd like to meet up sometime!

[@craigdaniellebachar8220]

Appreciate the quick answer....would love to see your system. Not to many people around here to talk brewing with....Not a big social media guy but any time you would love to talk beer and share some of our ware...let me know. I am the only Chiropractor down in Osprey so please call anytime....thanks Craig

[@danamessier5034]

Craig & Danielle Bachar craig send me an email, I will give you my number. [e-mail]

[@greatfermentations]

We've got the Quick Disconnects as well! In fact, we put together a BrewEasy Quick Disconnect kit just for this reason! shop.greatfermentations.com/product/ss-quick-disco-kit-breweasy/homebrew-quick-disconnects Cheers! Bryan

[@danamessier5034]

Great Fermentations yes buy these 😁

[@MandalorianFanboy]

Cool video. Would you recommend this system for someone looking to make the initial jump to all grain brewing? I was also considering a Speidel Braumeister. Is the Blichmann pretty easy to manage when brewing solo?

[@danamessier5034]

+Tron Yeah it's a great system, would be fine to make the jump as long as you're confident you'll be sticking with the hobby... lots of money for a beginner, but hey when you fall in love with the craft... ;)

[@penn6602]

Dana, thanks for the great video! Also, what are those refridgerators you're using as a temp controlled fermentation chamber? Go Sox!

[@danamessier5034]

+Brad Panasiti Hey Brad, go sox! It's a beverage air glass front fridge, like the kind you would see in a gas station chilling beverage

[@robertevans922]

what's your ritual with the lines in each step? I just set up my breweasy and i made a mess with the water run i did. Any tips on clearing the wort inbetween mash and boil? and then chiller and fermentor. Two reasons for asking, one is cleanliness in the garage and two is minimizing line loss. Cheers!

[@danamessier5034]

Robert Evans hey there! I don't actually clear the lines between each step. I tried messing with it when I first got the system and found it to be sort of a waste of effort. To minimize loss, when I transfer into the fermenter, after everything is out of the kettle, I add a few gallons of filtered water and run the pump until the lines are clear... effectively using the water to push the last bit of wort into the fermenter. Cheers!!

[@electromagneticlive]

very nice. please do yuo have a beersmith profile for this system? thanks

[@greatfermentations]

Yes, BeerSmith makes an equipment profile for the BrewEasy system. In BeerSmith, go to "File >> Add-ons" and then click "Add". You should find the BrewEasy equipment profiles listed there. Let us know if you have any other questions. Cheers! Bryan

[@lugenam]

Can you please share what type of quick disconnects you had installed on the Therminator? and where you bought them? Thanks!

[@greatfermentations]

Luis - He is using a mix of the SS quick disconnects we sell at this link: shop.greatfermentations.com/category/homebrew-quick-disconnects. Shoot us an email ([e-mail]) or give us a call at 888-HME-BREW if you are interested, and we can get you setup. Cheers! Bryan

[@willschmit436]

I have been looking at the Breweasy, and was quite concerned about how the system sheds the volitiles while boiling-off DMS. It never made any sense. Now it does -- the answer is--- you remove the mash tun, and boil it open.

[@johncspine2787]

The mash temp was low because you didn’t stir in the beginning..the center was cooler, you must destratify the grain and water in the beginning, not to mention blend out the dough balls, because the grain is surprisingly resistant to being warmed up due to the dissolved air inside the grain, in between the grain etc. Your PH is too high because you added far too much alkalinity. It’s always better to err on the side of a lower PH, at least as I have found. My water is just too hard, and I like stuff like Kolsch, so, I use distilled and spring water with minimal gypsum, calcium chloride additions, and I’m experimenting with acidifying the sparge water. Thanks for the vid..I’m considering a system like this..

[@johncspine2787]

I’m surprised you don’t get tannin extraction with setting your sparge at 192.

[@erikbrewer4336]

He was adding hotter water to raise the grain bed temp faster, the actual mash temp didn’t go higher than 172.

[@jaredchase5175]

Quick question, What brewing software do you use? I just picked up Beersmith to use in conjunction with my 5 gal electric Breweasy and am having a lil trouble setting it up.

[@danamessier5034]

I play with both beersmith and ibrewmaster on the iPad. There is some info on setting up beersmith for the Breweasy in this thread here (check the last few pages): www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=419241

[@gregboone6389]

Thanks for posting this. It was very informative...... Pushed me over the edge to buy a 10 gallon BrewEasy system. I have been looking at them for a year or so now. Just ordered it and I can't wait until it gets here. I am also looking at Conicals and like the SS BrewTech 14 gallon such as the one you have featured in this vid. Can you please tell me the make and model number of the refrigerator i see around it?

[@gregboone6389]

Sorry - I see you identified the fridge below as the "Beverage Air"....I just saw a 12CF model advertised for $1,668.85...... Looks cool but kinda pricey and probably not too efficient......Does any one know where to get these for a more reasonable price? SS BrewTech is now offering a glycol chiller for $975.... I am going to have a look at that method as well..... Thanks again for posting this. Great vid!

[@adamchamberland1721]

Do you know the exact list of parts you used to upgrade to quick disconnects. links to the parts if possible too??

[@greatfermentations]

Adam - He is using a mix of the SS quick disconnects we sell at this link: shop.greatfermentations.com/category/homebrew-quick-disconnects. Shoot us an email ([e-mail]) or give us a call at 888-HME-BREW if you are interested, and we can get you setup. Cheers! Bryan

[@countryboycharlie9793]

Great video👍

[@brianb6611]

Any changes to your processes since you last posted?

[@ChristianMFrank]

Great video! Can you link me up for those awesome Heatproof-Waterproof gloves from Amazon? Thanx!

[@danamessier5034]

Here you are! www.amazon.com/Steven-Raichlen-Best-Barbecue-Insulated/dp/B0007ZGURK/ref=pd_sim_lg_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Y9FXC562VT64SV5AQH4

[@ChristianMFrank]

Dana Messier Thank you!!

[@brianbearden8013]

Dana, which water filter are you using?

[@Bohern1]

Question, I noticed you do not have a vent hood or anything to evacuate steam over the brew kettle. Have you had any problems with condensation or mold?

[@Bohern1]

I ask cause I am thinking about getting the same system

[@greatfermentations]

Sorry for the delay! This was taken in a garage, so he just keeps his garage door opened which does the trick. If you're brewing inside, you DEFINITELY want a vent hood. Cheers! Bryan

[@Bohern1]

@@greatfermentations Thanks for the reply, I would be doing the same. I have a garage door and a regular door about 10 feet away. I was just wondering if I'd be OK with just that. Seems like I would?

[@greatfermentations]

@@Bohern1 - Ok sounds good. I think you'll be just fine with a garage. I've brewed countless times in my garage with a burner and kettle, and I don't use a vent hood. Cheers! Bryan

[@Bohern1]

@@greatfermentations Thank you sir! Happy Brewing and thanks for the tip, esp the water info.

[@craighyatt8091]

Can you make 5 gallon batches with the 10 gallon system?

[@danamessier5034]

Hi Craig, yes you can. The only thing you have to be careful of is keeping the heating element submerged at all times. If you dry fire it, it will overheat and fail. This requires constant attention because you won't have enough liquid to allow the auto sparge to work. It's not ideal but it's not too tough either. I believe they sell an extended auto sparge arm to help with this issue.

[@craighyatt8091]

Dana Messier Ah, cool. Thanks!

[@robbywest4206]

About how long are your brew days on the electric 10 gal system?

[@danamessier5034]

+Robby West I can usually be completely cleaned up within 4 to 5 hours, taking my time

[@robbywest4206]

Sweet! Thanks for the reply.

[@nathanherrera8275]

any idea what the maximum grain bill would be

[@greatfermentations]

Nathan - It just depends. For the 5 gallon system, you'll max out around 16-18 lbs. The 10 gallon system that is in this video, has a max grain around 30-32 lbs. Finally, the 20 gallon system will max out around 60-63 lbs. Cheers! Bryan

[@markusmoses4019]

nice vid thanks!

[@StevenBloomfield]

Seems like you'd have better luck with your mash temps if the temp probe were used in the mash tun. I can't see where it is but I assume it's inline with the pumps. If you put it in place of the dial thermometer in the top kettle then you wouldn't need any 2 degree compensation or have to ramp up a lot at the beginning of the mash.

[@bradjohnson462]

+Steven Bloomfield Using my ToP controller, mine is extremely accurate having the probe at the valve where the wort returns back into the mash tun. Having it that far away from the mash, down by the pump, is definitely not optimal!

[@danamessier5034]

+Steven Bloomfield That was my thought initially as well, but in speaking with John Blichmann, he maintains that this is the best place for the probe.

[@ryankennedy3836]

Did he give a reason why it's the best place for the probe?

[@johnlitak2928]

I believe if it's in the mash tun, you will end up overshooting your target temperature dramatically. By the time your mash tun hits the target, the water below would be much higher. So as the heat shuts off, you would be circulating much hotter water into the top of the tun, and the temperature would continue to rise for awhile until it stabilized (you'd have the exact opposite problem). I think a better approach would be to use the shortest hoses possible, and perhaps use some pipe insulation during the mash - at the very least, don't let them sit on the cold ground.

[@ryankennedy3836]

What about circulating the mash faster - wouldn't that create a more even mash temp?

[@joearroyo238]

What exactly does he mean when he's referring to "efficiency"?

[@greatfermentations]

Efficiency refers to how "efficient" you are with extracting the sugars from your malt. For instance, if the amount of sugar available to extract is on a scale of 0-100 with 0 being no sugar, and 100 being all the possible sugar, if you get 70% efficiency, you've gotten 70 out of 100 of the sugars. Make sense?

[@joearroyo238]

Great Fermentations thanks! But how is it measured? How do you know if you got 70% or 20% or 100%?

[@greatfermentations]

@@joearroyo238 - We use BeerSmith to help calculate ours. Here's a link to John Palmer's How to Brew website that talks about it in a little more detail and gives you some ways to measure it: howtobrew.com/book/section-2/what-is-malted-grain/mash-efficiency Cheers! Bryan

[@jasonkinder8975]

what kind of ph meter are you using?

[@danamessier5034]

+Jason Kinder I am using this one here... thanks for watching! www.amazon.com/HMDPHM80-Digital-pH-Temperature-Meter/dp/B0096N8OWI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1455573273&sr=8-2&keywords=hm+digital+ph+meter

[@jasonkinder8975]

+Dana Messier Thank you! Attempting my first batch with the brew easy this weekend. Cheers!

[@koplandavid]

Dont use salts for lowering ph.

[@Schmook15]

Stir your grains! Dough balls much?!? Maybe you would get better efficiency!

[@martyonthebeach]

You don't sparge?

[@greatfermentations]

That's right! The BrewEasy is a spargeless system. You lose some efficiency, but gain the time back, which depending on the batch can be anywhere from 30 minutes to over an hour. Let us know if you have any other questions. Cheers! Bryan

[@foleyu2]

woah, your adding way too many bicarbonates!

[@grahambunton377]

I am a homebrewer. I brew my own beer in 23 litre batches from a kit, so I’m not a PROPER brewer. Until I grow my own hops. Until I harvest my own barley and malt it. Until I buy a $5000+ stainless steel brewing system with WiFi - I will just be playing at brewing. But in the meantime I will go down to my local homebrew shop and choose from the 180+ different beer kits and ferment it in my plastic bucket. Then after a few weeks I will sit down with a foaming brew and count the $5000 I saved. CHEERS SUCKERS !!!