You're welcome!

Not sure.

People will have different opinions but we say no due to the acidity of Kombucha. We always recommend either glass or stainless steel when working with Kombucha.

Glad you stumbled on our video! We don't sell these on Amazon so I don't know which model you have. What problems are you having?

@@greatfermentations Fermtech. Saw another video that is missing a tiny flutter valve in the bottom of the receiver tube within the anti sediment tip.

See that white doohickey that’s in the middle of the long flexible hose? That’s a flow stop clip that allows you to slow or stop the flow.

Not really. If anything, they will get sucked into the siphon and make their way into your target vessel and/or clog the siphon. It's best when the tip/bottom of the auto-siphon is placed ABOVE the sediment layer. Let us know if you have any other questions!

Nope.

Awesome! Glad to hear this video helped out.

Thanks for the question! How were they stored? Did they have something covering the opening? If they were covered, and you don't see any physical signs of the plastic cracking (from the ups and downs of the temp), then you should be good. Also, look for any visible signs of scratching as well. If there are no scratches that's good.

@@greatfermentations yes they look great actually & openings were covered with their bungs.

@@greatfermentations thanks for replying 👍

@@motog4-75 You're welcome!

Hmm, not sure. Can you send a picture to us at [email protected]?

That's normal. I'm pretty sure it's because as the Co2 gets colder, it exerts less pressure. Thus what once read 11, now reads 3-4 because of the temp change. Just re-adjust the regulator to 11 and it should maintain that now in the kegerator. Good luck!

@@greatfermentations you were correct sir! I adjusted back and things have stabilized. Thanks for the help!

@@joesimmons8441 You're welcome!

Where is the vessel your siphoning to, in relation to the vessel you are siphoning out of?

@@greatfermentations so the one is on top of the kitchen counter and the other on the floor. I am trying to get the liquid from the top to the bottom one. Does it have to do with the amount or "height" of the liquid to be poured out in relation to the "stick/tube" - I cannot get the water to go up the tube. As I pump, it barely comes up the tube. Plus it is odd to be pumping with the hose attached. Thank you!

@@mmarialexx Yeah, your setup sounds correct. You may have a faulty auto unit. When you pull up on the siphon cane, do you see a considerable amount of liquid move up into the housing? If not, the seal may be broken which will result in not enough liquid being drawn in for the siphon action to start when you depress it.

Yep!

Yes it sure will, but it's a bit annoying to work with because of it's height. We sell a shorter version of the autosiphon to fix this problem: shop.greatfermentations.com/product/fermtech-mini-auto-siphon-3-8-tubing/siphoning Thanks! Bryan

The gauge will stay at the same PSI pretty much until it's close to being out. I think it should be somewhere around 800-1000. If it's reading in the red at 500, it's either low OR you have it stored in the refrigerator/kegerator. That gauge will always read low when the co2 tank is cold as the gas contracts at colder temps. That's why we always just weigh the tanks to get an accurate read on how much is left!

Gerbrand - You can purchase the inner tube separately to replace yours (shop.greatfermentations.com/product/regular-auto-siphon-cane/siphoning). If you received it like that originally though, I'd reach out to the vendor you bought it from and ask for a replacement. Best of luck!

@@greatfermentations I did indeed buy a new one ASAP. Very frustrating when you're trying racking for the first time and it just fails miserably... Most likely oxidized my mead.

@@HectaBG Sorry to hear that, but glad that you got a new one. Mead is a tough cookie, especially since it's higher in alcohol so you should be good!

Not if you are using StarSan. With StarSan you really just want to get rid of the excess liquid and you're ready to go. There can/will be a LOT of foam and that is completely fine to leave as-is. Trying to rinse it out will only increase the risk of re-introducing bacteria. Let us know if you have any other questions!

Sure can! However, that's dependent on where the keg/fermentor are in relation to the foundry. If the foundry is elevated above them, it will work just fine. If they are on the relative same level as each other, then you'd need the pump.

It really just acts as a buffer between the uptake tube, and the sediment, which is slightly better than a traditional racking cane which goes directly into the sediment. With that being said, it won't do anything if you stick it directly in the sediment, so it's always recommended to transfer from just right above the bottom sediment!

Great idea!

Sorry, Curtis! We've had ours for going on 6+ years now and it's still working. Did you purchase from us? If it's not working we'd be glad to replace or take it back and give you a refund. Just let me know.!

Awesome! Co2 is Co2 regardless if you're using it for beer, or for fish!

@@greatfermentations too right!

Kevin - Thanks for the question, and to be honest, I'm not sure. Never have tried it before. Sorry we couldn't give you a definitive answer on this.

Thank you very much!

Excellent!

Yes you can definitely do that. However, you typically want to "mix" the solution into your homebrew, and if adding directly to your primary fermenter, you'll more than likely disturb the layer of trub that has collected on the bottom. That's why we typically recommend adding the solution to your bottling bucket, then siphoning the homebrew to the bucket, and off the sediment. Let us know if you have any other questions!

Wes here with Great Fermentations. Thank you for your question! While the gelatin will help clarify the beer and may take out some of the yeast, it should not remove all of the yeast, and there should still be enough in solution to carbonate the beer. I hope this helps! Cheers, Wes

Thanks! They are fun to make, but take a LOT of time so we try to knock them out when we can.

Great question! We think plastic works just fine for Mead/Wine primary fermentation. However, if you plan to do any extended aging, we tend to suggest glass. Thanks for the question!

@@greatfermentations So, define "extended aging"? As for wine, isn't aging typically accomplished in the bottle?

​@@dc-wp8oc No hard and fast rule about what's considered extended, but I'd say anything over 2 months to go with glass. As for aging in the bottle, yes this is true, but many winemakers will age in carboys or stainless steel vessels for several months to help with clarity and off-gassing. Aging in larger vessels also ages the wine just like in the bottle.

Oxyclean definitely is a good product. To each their own on whether or not it is more effective than PBW!

Anthony - Wes here with Great Fermentations. Thank you for your question! Yes, to prime cider, you would use the same amount as with beer. Just make sure all the sugars have fermented out first before priming. This will create a dry and sparkling cider. If you are looking for a sweet sparkling cider, this is very difficult to pull off, as you will have to add a nonfermentable sugar or sweetening agent (such as xylitol), or stabilize the cider, back-sweeten, and force carbonate in a keg. I hope this helps! Cheers, Wes

Thanks very much!

@@anthonysteventon1518 - You're welcome!

Yeah you just end up pouring a ton of sanitizer inside of your batch if anything goes wrong (which it likely will). Siphoning sucks