Getting To Know The Losi LMT - Suspension Settings And What They Do

[@tonyciriello6872]

Changing the shocks X-ring seals as per your video made a huge difference just as you said. Thanks!!

[@RoostedFilms]

Interesting video, thanks. I just got my first LMT so I believe this is currently beyond my scope & needs but some great tip's clearly delivered is appreciated.

[@ozzynichols5026]

Thanks. I was wondering about the upper link positions at the chassis.

[@dirtysoufracing6029]

Great monster truck tech as usual !!

[@andrewrichey7374]

Yeah right on appreciate you sharing, I’m just learning so I really appreciate I’ll be watching for more peace and chicken grease

[@sed6]

Awesome video, thanks! Subbed just now to get you over that 1K hump! Good luck.

[@millboss1372]

Awesome info!!! Thanks

[@meirdeaph]

Awsome info

[@emaxxracer9931]

Can you elaborate more on what effects the upper link has on the handling of the vehicle? For instance, how raising and lowering it on front and rear effects it? I think of it as pitch center. Like roll center but front-back not left-right. It’s still a bit confusing though. Everyone says just set the upper links parallel to the lower ones but there is rarely a more technical explanation as to the positioning adjustments

[@kevsbench01]

On solid axle trucks, you mainly adjust the rear upper links. Like I mentioned in the video, having the upper and lower links parallel to each other provides maximum grip when accelerating. The more you lower the upper link, the more you reduce rear grip. The truck is basically pushing the front bars when driving froward, so the angle of the upper link doesn't do anything for traction. But.......changing the position of the front upper link can affect the steering because the angle of the axle will change when the front suspension changes. According to what I've been told, that change in angle and therefore steering will cause erratic behavior.

[@alextomosieski3081]

There’s actually more science to this setting, but the basic explanation is correct for the geometry on this truck. On real cars with four links, you would imagine lines continuing from the upper and lower links and see where they intersect, this is called instant center. If they intersect above an imaginary line that starts from where a point on the ground from the center of the rear axle (tire contact spot) to a point directly above the front axle centerline at a height of the center of gravity of the vehicle. If the “instant center” is above this imaginary line, it will cause the rear suspension to lift (or separate, spread apart) on launch and create a lot of traction on launch, but also hurt rear tire traction on braking. If they intersect below, it will cause squat (or compress the suspension). Lowering the top link where it mounts to the chassis causes the top link to angle down and should help move that intersection point above that imaginary line, creating chassis lift and adding traction. Also, lowering the cg of the truck, without adjusting the link angles will also increase traction. This needs to be done at ride height. This is all really well explained in “Door Slammers: The Chassis Book” by Dave Morgan. A good diagram is on page 133. Also, he explains how to find the center of gravity of the vehicle using scales.

[@quentinturnage7252]

​@Hetmanski Hobbies Hello. I have a box stock LMT with proline powerstroke XT shocks. I will be using this truck for general bashing ONLY and wanted to get your recommendation on a good starting point for oil weight and spring weight/ color.I know this is all personal preference, but you know this platform better than anyone else. I have not drive it yet because of all the rain. This is what I have my suspension setup as of right now. 25w oil front/rear. Green primary and green secondary springs on the front. Green primary and yellow secondary on rear. Primary being the small springs on top and secondary being the large springs on bottom.

[@bullydad1694]

Why do you prefer 2S over 3S? Also 1 of the shocks doesn’t compress to the bump stop. Why would that happen?

[@kevsbench01]

2S makes the truck easier to drive. A lot of people don't understand that more torque and power isn't a good thing in most situations. I run a lower torque motor that has a high RPM and the taller gearing that I run also helps reduce torque and "increase grip". When a shock won't compress it's usually because the shock is over full with oil and or the shock shaft is bent.

[@YeeticleesRC]

All those holes behind the sway bars... what are they for?

[@kevsbench01]

For the mounting of shocks when using a link mounted setup.

[@RoadsideRC]

Awesome info! I notice you have stock links on this truck. I keep breaking the rod ends on the lower links. I thought about going to a solid link, but figure that will transfer the forces elsewhere. Have you found the stock links to be the best for you?

[@kevsbench01]

I haven't had any issues with the rod ends. The honest answer (and not in a mean way) is that you have to change your driving style and/or setup. No one should be breaking those rod ends. They're very beefy.

[@blown96ranger]

my lmt roller pulled the shock shaft out of one of my rod ends on first run i put superglue when i threaded it back on and has been solid ever sense. not sure if thats the problem your having but what i did

[@russellrv]

On my truck I moved the 1.6 springs to the front and put 2.2 on the rear. I have treal axles and links arms. I don't race and I just bash. I have noticed that under acceleration I get a lot of torque twist. My right rear grips the most which lifts the front left in to air. How would you look at fixing this? I also have a set of proline power stroke xl shocks, not sure if they would be better than stock.

[@kevsbench01]

It has to do with the power of the system you installed and how the driveshafts act on the suspension. You need to make stiffer sway bars. A lot of people add preload to one corner to "fix" the issue but in the end it doesn't fix anything and messes up the truck's suspension and how it works. You can also help reduce torque twist by toning down the power on the bottom end. Smoot things out using throttle speed (if your radio offers that), you can gear up to reduce bottom end grunt, but you have to watch motor temp, or you can use your finger to pull the trigger slower to tone down the torque.

[@russellrv]

@@kevsbench01 I am using the RTR power unit on 3s with a 15T spur gear. I will give the sway bar adjustment a go. Maybe I can also switch back to the 14T. I was thinking stiffer springs would help the rear from compressing so much but it seems to have made things worse. The rest is all RTR stock.

[@kevsbench01]

@@russellrv The 14-tooth gear will give the motor more torque and increase torque twist.

[@johnmiller4553]

🤙🤙🤙🤙