A 4 year old video!!! still completely relevant today! I’m new to 3D printing, and Angus has all the answers... plus I love his challenges and test prints
@JonniNakari6 жыл бұрын
Lowering the perimeter or wall acceleration settings in slicer has a huge effect on removing ghosting. Available at least in Slic3r (Print Settings -> Speed -> Acceleration control -> Perimaters) and Cura (Speed -> Print Acceleration -> Wall Accceleration -> Outer Wall Accceleration). I use 2000mm/s² as the default acceleration and have outer walls printed with 310mm/s² acceleration.
@ufohunter36886 жыл бұрын
I posted a copy of your comment on the top comment for all to see. I think Angus should make this top comment as well.
@jameslaine24726 жыл бұрын
Good to know! I had no idea the slicer even had such a setting
@facitenonvictimarum4 жыл бұрын
Well Jonni, aren't you even gunna thank UFO? It's been a year now and we're all waiting.
@noway82334 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tip., im try it
@noway82334 жыл бұрын
@@jameslaine2472 yuo need to activate the options
@darkwinter60286 жыл бұрын
As another commenter mentioned, it’s the result of having too much acceleration for the rigidity of the machine. The belts used on low-cost 3D printers are kinda springy, resulting in the attached components vibrating when suddenly accelerated. If you can’t upgrade the rigidity of your machine, the only other parameter you can adjust is to turn down the acceleration. Adjusting the speed may seem to help, but what’s going on is that the ringing is still present, but it’s just been compressed into a smaller area because the head isn’t moving as fast. Turning the acceleration down will actually reduce the root problem; not just mask the effect. BTW, this is why CNC milling machines and lathes use ballscrews for driving their axes - they are much more rigid than belts.
@alexdunda4 жыл бұрын
They also use ballscrews due to the fact that they have to go through many more forces linearly. 3D printers have very low force witch allows them to use belts to save weight and costs. But yes they are more rigid than belts.
@patrickbodine60104 жыл бұрын
And the tool head moves slower.
@fantasiiio4 жыл бұрын
Since I upgraded my frame for a solid metal frame, I have a lot of ringing..
@JohnBlaze505 Жыл бұрын
CNC Machinist and design engineer here, you're correct about the ballscrews, linear guides are even better! But no budget 3d printer will have those on their machines, I've found that adding 4 tungsten weights to my Elegoo Neptune 3 dampens vibration quite a bit. Also setting the machine on a paving block helps quite a bit too.
@3DPrintedTabletop6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing, Angus. I print lots of miniatures & terrain for tabletop gaming, and lowering speed is what has worked best for me. Will share with others who get ringing as well. Cheers!
@zendell376 жыл бұрын
Just the other day I did a basic search for Ghosting tips. Everyone was arguing about settings. Then Angus swings in and explains things better. I'd rather go with things everyone can agree on and easily understand. Thanks Angus. You're such a good resource for people that just want to know without having to take a master class or sift through all the internet arguing
@DarwinsChihuahua6 жыл бұрын
I think you mean momentum instead of moment of inertia which is related but really a different thing. Doesn't detract from your excellent video.
@facitenonvictimarum4 жыл бұрын
It does distract. He's supposed to be a college graduate. "Graduated Sydney's University of Technology (UTS) in 2013 Bachelor of Industrial Design First class Honours"
@GEOsustainable3 жыл бұрын
Thanks, you helped me confirm that careful assembly with strict tolerances will eliminate yet another 'common' problem. That and a double Z screw. Like others, I want to switch all belts to drive screws. Get them within 10,000/in in the XYZ and never have any of these common issues that stem from 'minimum engineered products'.
@JonathanKayne6 жыл бұрын
You could also try adjusting the timing belt tension. The direction change isn't transferred as quickly to a loose belt, so the ghosting is at a lower frequency but more pronounced. A tighter belt will help transfer vibration to the frame faster and hence dampen it.
@two_number_nines6 жыл бұрын
>timing belt
@RonFloyd6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Angus. It always helps to be pointed in several directions when troubleshooting complex problems.
@LindyDesignLab6 жыл бұрын
Cool. Small imperfections aren't usually a concern since my prints get post-processed but it's good to know exactly what's going on and ideas to fix it if necessary. Thanks for the info.
@ApolloMcrib6 жыл бұрын
I thought the the same, then I became obsessed with having perfect prints at .2 layer height and only having to lightly do post processing on whats left of the start stop seam.
@bobsturdevant53176 жыл бұрын
I really like the idea of putting the paper onto the printer to show the vibration. Great visual aid. Thanks Angus.
@phinok.m.6286 жыл бұрын
The belt tension can also make a big difference. If your 3D printer is belt driven you kinda have to find a good balance in belt tension. A loose belt dampens vibration quite well, but may result in higher tolerances. While a tight belt decreases the tolerances but also increases the springiness of the belt, potentially 'causing things to bounce back and forth a little after a sudden change in speed. Similar to a weight hanging on a rubber band when the other end of the rubber band is suddenly moved up or down slightly.
@maxximumb6 жыл бұрын
Ghosting can also be reduced by fixing your printer down to a rigid base. I screwed mine down to a 3/4" plywood base and saw an instant improvement. I still get ghosting when printing fast, but generally it's acceptable. Also it reduces the frequency I need to re-level my print bed. I'll look at improving the rigidity of the X-Z axis next with braces
@WolfgangEgger6 жыл бұрын
great, explaining printing issues is much more helpful, than reviewing printers ;-)
@pedroikaferreira2813 жыл бұрын
this is gold hahaha
@OutsiderDreams6 жыл бұрын
Great video Angus! You're explaining some pretty advanced concepts in your video and know they are not always the easiest to distill down to just a few words or phrases. Just a subtle correction: Changes is acceleration and deceleration as well as speed DOES NOT result in moments of inertia. Moment of inertia is a geometric property. Nothing to do with the material or forces/accelerations acting on the object.
@BenWilson245 жыл бұрын
Small correction: moment of inertia is an object's resistance to changes in angular acceleration. The moment of inertia is just a property that comes from the mass and geometry. It's not 'caused' by the motion, but is rather the property of the object that makes it more difficult to make quick changes in direction. The moment of inertia of the extruder is constant regardless of whether it is moving or not.
@7plymaple1242 жыл бұрын
Great video! I just experienced this after sorting out my tpu setting to the point where I have drastically increased my printing speeds.
@H3zzard6 жыл бұрын
Spooky scary vibrations send shivers through your print...
@BensHacks6 жыл бұрын
I tried some aproaches with mediocre or no success: 1. I improved regiditty. This made the prints much more accurate but induced evan mor ringing. That is counter intuitive but logical because the slack I had before acted as an damper. 2. I enforced belt tension. This changed the pattern and helped a bit overall. Increasing the force of the steppers by changing them and cranking up the current did pity much the same as higher belttension. 3. I than tried shock absorber under the printer. The impact on the ringin was not noticeable, but it reduced the accuracy. 4. The next attempt will be stronger belts. From an physical perspective it is quite simple: if you put energy in the system it must has a way to come out again. This happens by dampening only. Higher regiditty only changes the frequency of the resonanz. This helps a little, because higher frequency means the existing damtening is applied more often. Realizing this in practice turned out to be much more complicated.
@Super_lil_fist6 жыл бұрын
Angus, Thank you so mich for these videos! Your channel has saved me alot of time and trial and error. Keep up the good work!
@esven92636 жыл бұрын
Stiffening and reducing mass both have the effect of raising the natural frequency, and dampening like with shock absorbers as you mention has the effect or reducing the amplitude but widening the range of that response. Likewise slowing down the print speed lowers the working frequencies of the system. The goal is to push the systems resonance response high enough that it's outside of the working range. This method can of course reduce resonance but it can also introduce new resonances that weren't there before. There is an alternative in that you can increase mass and attempt to push the resonance outside of the working frequencies by decreasing the resonance frequency substantially. This isn't necessarily a good fit for 3d printing but it does well with someapplications. Ultimately though no simple solution like this will do as well with as little as a control system in the firmware with proper resonance compensation. Traditionally for mechanical systems you use a a state observer (a low order Luenberger observer) to inform a feed forward controller which deliberately offsets the resonance peak from the control signal. This is part of why higher end 3d printers despite similar construction standards to other cheaper printers, can at times get better results. A lot of thought is given to system rigidity, resonance, and the control logic itself.
@thekingofthething6 жыл бұрын
One tip: Putting your printer onto a foam board or put it on springs for vibration Isolation does not reduce the ghosting. It just changes the eigenfrequencies of the whole system so the ghosting will appear at different movement speeds / changes of speeds. Putting the printer on a vibration isolation only reduces the vibration that the printer gives to the surface it stands of. In general the printer on it's own will "wobble" more.
@chriskaye19976 жыл бұрын
Also, if you change the orientation of your printed part by 90degrees in the slicer, this may help reduce ringing further after all hardware optimisations you can realistically achieve have been performed.
@PrintNPlay6 жыл бұрын
Would you say it's a ... Ghost in the Shell?
@illitero6 жыл бұрын
I wouldn't.
@yvan25636 жыл бұрын
Only if printed in vase mode.
@stuffedsomething16996 жыл бұрын
I'd say that this makes him a "ghost buster"... *badum-tish*
@ZebraandDonkey6 жыл бұрын
Nice one. It’s ghost is whispering to it.
@cediddi6 жыл бұрын
Curse your sudden but inevitable joke!
@markcrane69596 жыл бұрын
Great walk through of the issue easy to understand and learn from great job as always , will have to try these tips now on my ender 2
@AmusementLabs6 жыл бұрын
You could also get a bowden setup. I have a cantilever design and don't have this issue at all.
@tetsuoswrath6 жыл бұрын
Angus I was actually going to ask you if you had a video like this and you went and made one before I had the chance to ask. I really appreciate the videos dude, thanks a bunch. :{J
@acgkplh6 жыл бұрын
Great video Angus. Clear and concise. A great help 👍
@rhalfik2 жыл бұрын
For some reason I find it hard to take my eyes of this fascinating content. All glory to Hypnotoad.
@superlemus26 жыл бұрын
Moment of inertia is the resistance to changes in rotation and is a property of the geometry of an object. It can effect the rigidity of an object, but moment of inertia isn't changed by the movement of an object. It's momentum that is effected by velocity.
@kesterbelgrove8186 жыл бұрын
Love these reviews, especially when you use the Cetus, since it's the only printer i own so far and I love this printer.
@3DprintedLife6 жыл бұрын
Ghosting can be eliminated 100% without changing acceleration and jerk with proper firmware/stepper drivers. There currently aren't any solutions for DIY 3D printers that I'm aware of, but there are many for commercial CNC machines. Basically the algorithms will anticipate when a change in direction is approaching and modify the instantaneous jerk and acceleration appropriately in order to eliminate the extra "spring"/slop upon completing that motion or change in direction. I'm sure Marlin will eventually implement something like this, although tuning for each machine individually would be tough which I'm assuming is why nothing like this has been implemented yet. An auto-tuning script would likely be needed which would require stepper drivers with accurate positioning feedback. Here's an example of this algorithm, not my video! kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4a9h3-DeNKGrqs
@MegaMaking6 жыл бұрын
exactly :) there are some works being done. constant acceleration and deceleration on most firmware hinders the ability to print at high acceleration/deceleration.
@FuturefabOrgUk6 жыл бұрын
Interesting - I thought I'd had just about every 3D printing fault but I've never seen this one! Perhaps because I'm always printing in slow motion! Thanks, very interesting.
@martinbudden6 жыл бұрын
Here are some further suggestions for reducing ghosting. 1. Take into account the geometry of the printer. So, for example, on the Cetus, oscillations in the cantilevered arm contribute to ghosting, so try rotating the print 90 degrees. This will reduce ghosting on one surface (but increase it on the other) which may give a better result for your print. 2. Place the print on a different place on the print bed. So, for example, on the Cetus, moving the print to the left will mean the print is nearer to the cantilevered arms fixing point, so the magnitude of the oscillations in the arm will be smaller at this point. 3. Design your prints to reduce ghosting. In particular avoid sharp corners, if possible. So fillet your corners if they are not required to be sharp. This will also have the benefit of marginally reducing the print times (since the print head does not need to slow down as much going around corners).
@larrykent1963 жыл бұрын
Thanks you do a great job. Cheers and have a happy new year.
@Hammersmash3dFace6 жыл бұрын
All Glory to the Hypnotoad!
@N_0_I_Z_E3 жыл бұрын
No
@kain0m5 жыл бұрын
Adding more rigidity will not solve it, just change the shape. Basically, the problem is that the system has a resonance frequency which gets excited by the G-code. Slower speed reduces the forces involved, and to some extent the acceleration - that's why it helps. More tension does essentially nothing. Preloading a spring does not change it's spring rate. Reducing mass increases the resonance frequency, which may help The real solution is jerk and acceleration. You have to view them as low pass filters. Basically, they will greatly reduce the forces acting on the frame during direction changes - essentially reducing print speed whenever changing direction. The issue is that properly tuning them is not trivial; of course you could just greatly reduce them and it would help, but it would slow down fine detail prints a lot...
@fredericbonnet24196 жыл бұрын
Have you considered using a tuned mass damper fixed on the head to reduce vibrations? Such as a small weight mounted on a flexible wire or a spring for example. This is commonly used on tall buildings to mitigate the effect of wind or earthquakes.
@MScholtz6 жыл бұрын
Also spring tensioners can allow bouncing. Replace them with solid tensioners
@GaryLaaks14 жыл бұрын
Tks A. I have learnt so much from your channel.
@genioee4 жыл бұрын
Moments of inertia are to rotation (not really, but kinda also bending a bit) what mass is to linear movement. That said, velocity, acceleration and any movement won't change the moment of inertia. However, higher accelerations cause bigger spikes in resonance vibration. Increasing inertias and masses is a good thing for the frame - as you correctly showed, but it's a bad thing on moving parts, since these "masses" store engery and vibrate as long as they do. So: inertia is mass and accelerating that mass leads to swinging masses, which causes trouble. So make things light and rigid (rigidity helps to shift vibration frequencies to so high bandwidths that they can be ignored).
@Martial-Mat6 жыл бұрын
It's breathtaking to me, that this crap has not already been designed out and resolved in software. The equation "poor rigidity + print head x speed = bad prints" is one a child could calculate and adjust, yet these companies leave it to the users to figure out using expensive material. I really feel that this entire industry is flooded with shitty companies out to make a fast buck whilst providing an abysmal, expensive and frustrating customer experience. Comparing this to the birth and growth of mono ink then colour ink jets and lasers, the 3D printing market is MUCH slower to mature to something that is usable by non experts. They really need to pull their fingers out.
@andersjjensen5 жыл бұрын
I get what you are saying, but I also think there are a couple of counter points: 1) My first printer (9 needle ribbon matrix printer) couldn't even print proper mono space columns, and would tear the paper ever so often *despite* it having guide holes in the sides. 2) All three of the inkjet printers I've owned have managed to clog up their print nozzles because I only print a couple of times a year. We are still point... An inkjet is no use for the rare occasion, and the price of a laser printer isn't justified. 3) All the HP LeserJet III printers at my school were *notorious* for paper jams. (This was fully fixed with LaserJet IV). 4) 3D printing is seeing a much slower adoption because the vast majority of people don't have a need for little plastic nicknacks. People did however have a need for writing and pictures on paper. Without printers the first few generations of generally available computers would have been utterly useless because you couldn't e-mail you text to anyone, and every official capacity demanded paper documentation. Incidentally this is the only need I still need printing for: some stupid office that doesn't have an online form to fill out yet. 5) You get what you pay for. Cash out two grand on a Makergear M2 and you won't see ghosting. Those are build like a tank. Cash out $200 and you get a Chinese toy that can squirt plastic roughly in the direction you want it to go. Incidentally two grant, adjusted for inflation, is right around the price tag of the first properly reliable laser printers.
5 жыл бұрын
Hmm, you are saying software should solve the problem? Definitely possible, but even such a solution would reqiure either manual tuning or sensors! Its not quite as easy as you might think.
@spudnickuk5 жыл бұрын
There are 100's of types of 3d printers and most don't vibrate as bad, the problem mainly happens after the printer get worn. and so i having same issue after a year of using my Anet a8 non upgraded. i solved my issue after putting more tension on the belts , in this case a simple fix, and thus i have ordered some new belts to replace if get worse again.
@Frameshaft5 жыл бұрын
HypnoToad !!!! Great channel Agus, I love your explanations and opninions. Cheers from Québec City Canada !
@_evildoer6 жыл бұрын
One thing I never see mentioned and I see a lot of people doing is mounting the filament spool onto the top of the printer. Putting all that weight high up is just exaggerating the swaying that the printer is doing and increasing the ghosting.
@jimhize6 жыл бұрын
Also: check belts are properly tensioned if you get ringing
@curtpangracs86846 жыл бұрын
To me, ghosting is somewhat of a "perfect storm" of issues. Frame rigidity, vibration absorption properties of the base, acceleration/jerk settings, and print speed. I would also add nozzle wear, printhead weight, drive belt tension, etc. Unless the ghosting results in an unusable part, it's really not a huge issue, especially if the part will be post-processed. As far as small details and such, if you want good, fine details, you really shouldn't be using an FDM printer in the first place. Great video overall. Still yearning for more Fusion and Meshmixer tutorials... ;)
@gman95436 жыл бұрын
Very informative. Great video Angus!
@olorf6 жыл бұрын
Nice video Angus! I was a little bit disappointed that you didn't cover stepper driver dampeners and variations in belt material and tensions.
@MakersMuse6 жыл бұрын
It's such a complex issue... yeah, I need to play more with dampeners but my experience is they round out detail in expense for 'smoother' prints.
@olorf6 жыл бұрын
Yeah, dampeners probably was a bit overboard. But belts are at least something that is pretty easy to swap and as far as I know these can make a big difference if the frame is kind of rigid and the belt is springy.
@alansmithy856 жыл бұрын
THIS WAS VERY HELPFUL!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
@grimmdiy72825 жыл бұрын
The surface reflections contributes as well to the visibility of the ghosting. With Glossy filament it's much more visible than with a matt finish.
@blaked75326 жыл бұрын
one of the quick ways to sometimes get rid of ghosting is to change the orientation of your print and try to have the widest parts lowest when possible and have the print head print less and less per layer as it travels up. Doesn't always help, but some times it does.
@sasjadevries6 жыл бұрын
Are there any engineers watching that actually know what moment of inertia is and how to calculate it? If yes, then you probably thought: _"wtf is this guy talking about?"_ Moment of inertia is not caused by acceleration, it's the property of s structure that determines how easily it will deflect based on the force that's acting on it. And then there are 2 separate "moment of inertia"s, the first one and the second one. Or the mass moment of inertia and the area moment of inertia. In order to calculate at which frequency your printer will resonate you will need both as well as the material property.
@sasjadevries6 жыл бұрын
"Less speed means a lower moment of inertia" *lol, nope.* Scientific knowledge of a lot of people is completely hopeless.
@christianp2606 жыл бұрын
Agree that Angus doesn't understand moments of inertia, and shouldn't have used the term in the video - but this small misinformation doesn't greatly detract from the overall content. The TLDR of his video is basically "it's a vibration problem, so can be rectified by the usual means". His explanation was somewhat lacking based on his knowledge of the field, as you noted. All in all I liked the video and your comments, but the second comment whilst humorous is a little harsh :P
@TomatoBreadOrgasm6 жыл бұрын
Yeah, that made me double take. I think there was confusion with the common meaning of "moment" and the use of the word in physics. Understandable. People make similar mistakes with phrases like "begging the question" all the time.
@edwardnbuckland6 жыл бұрын
yes I'm a big fan of Maker's Muse but the terrible physics in this video is actually so painful to listen to
@GarranGossage6 жыл бұрын
Yep. Pretty much. I am not sure why he didn't just say "inertia". I guess "moment of inertia" sounds cooler.
@youtubemakesmedothis72806 жыл бұрын
Excellent teaching video. Thanks, Angus
@mickcoomer97146 жыл бұрын
I found putting a couple of kilos of filament on top of the lid ( Flashforge Dreamer) improved print quality a lot.
@trwappers6 жыл бұрын
This is what happens when you count on rigidity to keep things stable instead of feedback. And with rigidity, there's not much you can do, and it's a black art. Giving it a whack with a hammer might help, or it might make it worse. Same with attaching a weight or a spring. The advice to increase rigidity ... I'm not saying it can't work, but it will never fix it. And totally overdoing it might make things fall apart or worse: suffer high stress during operation and then suddenly fling a metal arm across the room.
@dote7806 жыл бұрын
Ghosting is bad, but scars are worse!! Thanks a lot for addressing ghosting, but next please let's fix these stupid scars of mine. Thumbs up Angus!
@Baiswith6 жыл бұрын
Would love to see more troubleshooting videos like this :)
@tommanox2 жыл бұрын
cheers . my a8 is as rigid as it can be without stiffer x-axis rods. I overlooked dampening
@Xavier666K6 жыл бұрын
I love how most people who watch these Chanel’s don’t have 3D printers
@facitenonvictimarum4 жыл бұрын
I'll buy one after I get my first microwave. Can't do all the high tech stuff at once.
@adog31294 жыл бұрын
really? I never knew that. I started watching these channels right around the time I got a printer, I don't know how else you could fall into that rabbit hole lol.
@fctoashton4 жыл бұрын
It’s more about going into a purchase with an idea of what it can and can’t do. All large purchases should be researched first.
@noatreiman5 жыл бұрын
Dude, love your videos, but do you know what moment of inertia is?
@pedroikaferreira2813 жыл бұрын
thanks a lot dude! really objective and helpful!!
@lepalakatamongalo73286 жыл бұрын
I always set my Outline speed to 50% and my Solid Infill to 95%, works very well on my Anet A8 [Stock frame]
@pumpalBo5 жыл бұрын
What fkd slicer is that. Speed is not measured in %.
@AllanElkaim6 жыл бұрын
Another way to reduce ghosting would be to upgrade to a bowden extruder setup, but it will make printing flexible filament harder.
@JAYTEEAU6 жыл бұрын
Good info as always Angus. Cheers
@choiioklam84806 ай бұрын
Hello , I am happy to found your video for how to fix the problem on 3D printing , here I got a problem hope you can help , my problem is when I start printing every thing is OK , but after around 50% then the print head will cooling down , I have use a new set of heat sensor , but same problem got .so hope you can sharing your experience , thank you very much , regards John
@Enthcreations5 жыл бұрын
Hello man your explaination about echo is correct but I understood that the main reason of ghosting is a movement trasversal to an axis over which the nozzle is moving. The eco is not caused by x or y themselves but by the bar at the top of z for 99%. Is a butterfly effect, where the z axes starts to vibrate trasversally to the x or y axes. The eco or lines u see fading out are the translation of the fading out of the vibration of z rod\brace. Because of that if u check it, the slot at the very top of the z rod has a bearing whose socket is very loose (for cr-10), this in order to let the rod vibrate without transmitting the vibration to the brace. So the issue is not the relationship between x and y but with x that turns into y while z vibrates. The question of mass is true but it cant be the main reason of ghosting here. U have not 30kg of mass to brake in 2cm that justify the inertia over the x and y movement relationship only. The z rod is the criminal here. Make a test and try to completely isolate z im order to fight ghostin 👍👍👍
@lasersbee6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the what's what on 3D printer Ghosting Angus... Was new to me.
@MakersMuse6 жыл бұрын
I'll be honest it's a way complex phenomenon and difficult to address completely but definitely something that way too many modern 3D Printers suffer from!
@dgretlein5 жыл бұрын
You can also rotate the print +/-90° and use the other axis.
@SGManiac12556 жыл бұрын
Something I'm not seeing in the comments. You mention acceleration and jerk settings, I'm not sure how well known this fact is, but "jerk" is the derivative of acceleration, or how fast you're changing your acceleration. A piece of trivia worth knowing if you're going to start messing with said settings.
@SGManiac12556 жыл бұрын
Also, side note, the derivative of "jerk" is "snap," then followed by "crackle" and "pop" because we're nerds. (thanks Tom Scott for teaching me this useless information)
@ProtonOne116 жыл бұрын
Sometimes just changing the orientation of the print on your bed helps. Just try and rotate your piece 45° around the z-axis if it has a square shape and flat faces. Of course, this does not help that much if your design has organic and rounded shapes. And about the acceleration and jerk settings, most firmwares allow you to adjust these settings via g-code commands. So with a bit of g-code hacking it's easy to make quick adjustments and find the best settings for your machine... (Check the M201, M204 and M205 G-Codes on reprap.org/wiki/G-code )
@sirsnootofboopington66936 жыл бұрын
I dont even have a 3D printer. I just watch your videos because they're interesting....
@AndrewGilmour-qld6 жыл бұрын
hi I did a print of it no Ghosting at my normal print speed, so I up the print speed till I started getting ghosting,eg 15mm/s to 25mm/s so now print at 20mm/s with no ghosting, THANKS MAKERS MUSE
@josiahlopez29556 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much I’ve had a big problem with this
@stephenkamin13455 жыл бұрын
Why not just go to your local sporting goods outlet and get stick on vibration dampners. they can be found any where compound bows are sold. they are soft latex shapes with a double sticky tape adhered to one side. Print out 4 of the muse sample, one every 90 degrees... and stick the damper in the direction of the ghosting... in the video example with the cardboard the damper should be stuck on the side of the bed the cardboard hung off. they also come with screws molded into them if you'd like to firmly mount them.
@jayducharme5 жыл бұрын
I tried your ghosting test on my TEVO Michelangelo. It came out nearly perfect, with only slight ghosting around the text and Makers Muse symbol. I was using WYZ white PLA 1.75mm filament. The Gcode had the default printer settings. It might help that my printer is on a sturdy wood desk.
@aguywithlaptopand3dprinter4 жыл бұрын
hi im new to 3d printing...and i giggled at JERK setting
@Samrodart6 жыл бұрын
I´ve some questions regarding 3D printers, and I hope someone in here could help me out Can you print your own transformer or action figures with ANY 3D printer or do you need an especific type of printer? What´s the best material to use if you want solid toys: ABS or PLA? How solid is going to be the toy? Like Hasbro´s solid, like a Lego´s brick or is going to be like a really cheap plastic? Do you need to sand the pieces or they´re already smooth as soon as they leave the print? What´s the best software to use to create toys for 3D printing? How durable is going to be the toy? Is going to break as soon as it hits the floor? And what´s the best way to deal with tolerance´s issues?
@taylorbenz6276 жыл бұрын
this episode should've said something about ghostbusting, imo
@gallaxii855 жыл бұрын
Nice video! But it's just inertia, not a moment in my ominion! A moment means it has something to do with a rotation which is not the case because the head only move (rapidly) in the x and y axis.
@Z318ABC6 жыл бұрын
Thank you, that will be useful without any doubt!
@Mickice6 жыл бұрын
I have weighted (2.5kg) and shock mounted on a Yoga mat my 3D printer, will have to print this fast like 60mms.
@wsj19832 ай бұрын
Thanxs man! It helped a loooot
@AlexChangYuan5 жыл бұрын
Maybe a small vibration damper will help. Yes it will add mass, but overall it could decrease the jerking n ghosting
@callumBee6 жыл бұрын
Jerk and Acceleration solved my ghosting. Default Marlin has them set far far to high for most printers. I would say this is something to look at more than frame rigidity.
@aajpeter6 жыл бұрын
Printing slower is a quick fix, but also the brute force worst case for fixing bad acceleration and jerk settings: print slower when you don't need to during straight paths but possibly still cause resonances around sharp moves. Getting acceleration and jerk right can fix this without sacrificing straight-line speed A much better order to address ghosting would be: 1. Reduce moving mass to the extent you can 2. Improve rigidity, mounting, and static mass to the extent you're willing 3. At normal speed, tune in acceleration and jerk 4. There is no 4. Don't touch speed, ideally. It would be more fair to say: reduce speed only if you don't have the time/patience for #3. I think people are intimidated by acceleration and jerk, but let's face that unknown.
@TodayIMade6 жыл бұрын
I'll actually give this a try. I noticed a bit more give in my Ultimaker's axes than I'd like, the last time I cleaned out my print head. - Let's see what it looks like, once I'm done. See you on twitter! :)
@kaelumhasler37156 жыл бұрын
Use a Bowden feed tube. It will also help.
@yeetbomb20156 жыл бұрын
I've been watching you a lot and I love your videos. I hope I can get my own 3d printer someday :)
@spikekent6 жыл бұрын
Ghosts in the machine. Gotta print this on the MK2 and Sigma to compare. My printers are so competitive, that why I can't leave them on overnight ... they fight lol
@tubeMonger6 жыл бұрын
Useful info. Appreciated.
@DougLicht6 жыл бұрын
I was able to reduce Jerk speeds in Cura which eliminated ghosting.
@neilredelinghuys32636 жыл бұрын
Thanks dude, I recently noticed some ringing on my cheapo machine, now I can fix it!! 😜
@mwalczak56033 жыл бұрын
go to larger steppers, especially on the Y axis. The motors are too small and that causes the ringing. I switch mine out and all my ringing is gone.
My ghosting problem with my creatility cr-10 s5 is from the absolutely massive weight of the bed. 500mm square aluminum plate with the frame underneath and same size glass plate, the heater and the aluminum plate for leveling screws. The whole thing probobly weighed over 10 lbs. I modified it to only weight about half as much.
@pen256 жыл бұрын
to fix my issues with blobs and ghosting i just lowered my jerk and accel settings. i worked my way down from stock. im not at home but i have done this on all of my printers and leave my print speed set to 100mm/s on the ft5. i believe i am set to 1100 and 8
@wordreet6 жыл бұрын
I would call it resonace, but when I show our chief engineer a component we're trying to machine I tell him, Malc, I've got wobbly bits again! Rigidity is key. Hobby grade 3d printers are basically low tolerance machines, so good positional accuracy and smooth surfaces are mostly controlled by either better quality components and, or speed of X/Y moves. We get this in our milling machines once they are a few years old. So, effectively it's caused by wear in the lead screws and the CNC not being able to deal with it. Yes, slowing down the X or Y axes moves will usually solve it, but of course, time is money. It doesn't happen in Z to the best of my knowledge. . I hadn't read this before today. Quote from Wiki. ------------- The running speed for a leadscrew (or ball screw) is typically limited to, at most, 80% of the calculated critical speed. The critical speed is the speed that excites the natural frequency of the screw. For a steel leadscrew or steel ballscrew, the critical speed is approximately[17] N = ( 4.76 × 10 6 ) d r C L 2 {\displaystyle N={(4.76\times 10^{6})d_{r}C \over L^{2}}} N={(4.76\times 10^{6})d_{r}C \over L^{2}} where N = critical speed in RPM dr = smallest (root) diameter of the leadscrew in inches L = length between bearing supports in inches C = .36 for one end fixed, one end free C = 1.00 for both ends simple C = 1.47 for one end fixed, one end simple C = 2.23 for both ends fixed So if your machine, whatever it is, already had issues, ie: low grade parts or any flex in the chassis, any time you hit the critical speed of your lead screws, X or Y, all the other probs only make it worse.
@pumpalBo5 жыл бұрын
No lead screws on X and Y on 99% of the FDM printers. It's 6mm GT2 belts.
@Thejigholeman2 жыл бұрын
it's weird for me. i get nice outer walls on my prints (i print molds for casting), but when it prints the inner "bowl" part, i get some layers that stick out, and some that are ok. imagine printing a box with a half sphere cut out of the middle. layers 1-40 are fine, layers 41 through 59 stick out like a band, layers 60 through 82 are perfect, then 83-100 are sticking out like there is a band again. it really messes up my casting, since those details show up in the casted object.