Remove ringing by tuning acceleration and junction deviation - step by step guide

[@TeachingTech]

UPDATE: This process has been streamlined with a easy to use gcode generator for the acceleration tower. All explained in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKGWo2xoZql1fas The calibration site: teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#accel

[@emaayan]

hi, the gcode generator creates the model with bottom solid layer

[@NEXUS-kjv]

*Does all of this work on Ender 3* ? _Is there a channel that only deals with __#Ender_3_

[@id104335409]

Just when you think you're done messing with your printer, a video like this comes up.

[@GnuReligion]

There is always "Linear Advance" to play with, as well. It is kind of like tuning the momentum of filament flow.

[@theKashConnoisseur]

I came here to say this, but I knew in my heart it had already been said.

[@ProfCantonius]

Can’t wait until planar is available

[@isaacchen3366]

There is never an end to the mod's

[@DJ.1001]

This video really puts into perspective how far printers have come. In just 3 years you can now get printers that will run reliably well over 300 mm/s and have a volumetric extrusion rate well over 20mm³/s

[@trevorwesterdahl6245]

FYI: I highly respect your videos. I am not a 3D printer expert, but I have over 30 years experience in manufacturing. I have been factory trained with 6000 watt lasers, plasma cutters, flame cutters, 3 axis, 4 axis, and 5 axis machining centers, etc. Used Catia, Siemens NX, and my favorite Solidworks. Newly loving the absolute best.... for free for home use ... Fusion 360. You seem to get that you have to rerun all calibrations when you make a change. A simple nozzle change can affect kerf, temperature adjustments, motion adjustments, etc. Kudos. Also, your sharing of knowledge is just awesome. I only ask that you NEVER... change or alter your opinion based on reward. Keep it real. Thanks.

[@musikmaker19]

Cannot get over how consistently you have been pumping out all this content over the years. With such detail, ease of explanation and pure quality. Hats off to you and many thanks for constantly being there for me since I started my printing journey years and years ago!

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks very much for the kind words my friend.

[@MrDemento1974]

Michael, thanks for this awesome tutorial. I've fine-tuned my Anycubic I3 MEGA-S using this method and now it just FLIES!!!! (I can reasonably print @ 100mm/sec!!!) I always enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing!

[@danielb.2873]

You're a really good teacher. I've stumbled upon your channel just recently and it has quickly become my go-to channel for at least calibration related questions. Although I have already been printing for years, I have still learned a lot.

[@martinpirringer8055]

Thanks for mentioning us - really aprechiate it

[@andreasthaler7068]

Und bringt einen neuen Abonnenten ;)

[@martinpirringer8055]

@@andreasthaler7068 Danke Sehr

[@edishergiorgadze4413]

@@martinpirringer8055 - thank you Sir for a great job with Marlin, its THE BEST !

[@therealmakmillion]

G91, then G1 E50 F360 yields consistent results. In fact, at 200c w/ Overture PLA (Red) I get up to G1 E200 F1580 before I get any inconsistencies in my extrusion, even then it's just one click and she's going again. Titan (clone), v6 (clone) hotend with aluminum block and 40w 24v heater. I'm moving on, as I can't see my extruder being the limiting factor. Thank you for the great tutorial and the amazing website!!

[@Apophis-en9pi]

FINALLY a good video about junction deviation. I've been waiting for this.

[@LincolnWorld]

You are creating the most useful content for the 3D printer users on youtube! Thank you.

[@edishergiorgadze4413]

Have CoreXY Sapphire PRO which came with "original" firmware and was....... never mind. Now I'm running Marlin 2 and with your Acceleration/Junction adjustments have printer most successful Benchy ever with base speed of 120 mm, it came out just gorgeous. Thanks Michael to you and and many thanks to Marlin!

[@yeahnah6468]

+1 for using Bathurst to explain corner speeds.

[@Archnemesis88]

Almost done assembling a DIY i3 style printer and in preperation, I'm finally am getting around to properly calibrating my first printer which I've only had for almost 5 years. Can't wait to see what happens to my insane ringing since upgrading to a 32-bit mainboard and marlin 2.0. I'm looking at klipper but I'm so excited to finally be following along with a bunch of your calibration videos! Thanks for so much great content!

[@michaelsteinbach5445]

Fantastic video that expertly clarifies a black box for me.

[@tonykyle2655]

I realize this is old. I just did input shaping on my 2019 Ender 5 Pro running Klipper and needed a good test. Thank you for the STL and this video.

[@DavidVegaBR]

Another remarkable video to the 3d printer community! Thx Michael!

[@joegibes]

Hi, just wanna say that your guide for 3d printer setup is THE BEST! It's comprehensive, pretty easy to follow, and results in wonderful prints. Thanks so much for putting this resource out there! Helped me get my old Printrbot Simple Metal making beautiful prints again 👍🏻

[@toddcoello6461]

As usual great video. But you know what I'd like to see is pick a 3d printing issue and work on that. It would help people so much. There's so many terms that new people might not know. Like 1.under extrusion this is what it looks like this is how to try and solve it. 2. Layer shifts is what it looks like this is what to look for 3. Ghosting and so on. The reason I ask this is because I watch so many videos and they will talk about said things but never what it looks like or where to look to fix.

[@cscoppa]

This is actually a great idea, could pick the most common issues from here, showing what each looks like and how to fix: www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

[@toddcoello6461]

@@cscoppa great link. I'll read through it more later. Thank you

[@TeachingTech]

I've thought about such a video. The problem is it would be extremely long to cover everything in enough detail. And then someone would call it rubbish because it doesn't cover their particular problem. Still might happen.

[@Etacovda63]

Teaching Tech just do one at a time, do it as a series, and at the start of the next video you could have a segment for the previous video addressing any misses or what have you. Might be a nice thing to do in respect to getting volume videos out without crazy amounts of concept generation that could become “bread and butter” videos, because they would get bulk hits and introduce new subscribers

[@cscoppa]

@@Etacovda63 He can also encourage the community to contribute by adding their solutions to the problem in the comments. Agreed that dividing it up into smaller chunks would make more sense.

[@HCarter111]

Another outstanding video. Thank you for doing these. Whenever I run into a problem - yours is the first channel I look for.

[@apep713]

Tip: When using Slic3r or PrusaSlicer u can use conditional gcode right in the Programm, instead of editing the gcode in a text editor. Example for 0.2: {if layer_num == 0} M204 P400 {elsif layer_num == 25} M204 P800 {elsif layer_num == 50} M204 P1200 {elsif layer_num == 75} M204 P1600 {elsif layer_num == 100} M204 P2000 {elsif layer_num == 125} M204 P2400 {endif} u could use "layer_z" instead of "layer_num" for Millimeters

[@mrjodavis]

Nice tips! It is also possible to add a custom gcode directly on the layers window by right-clicking on the + icon (where you could make a color change before).

[@davidcaughey9205]

As usual a very informative video delivered by a very keen and enthusiastic engineer. The videos you deliver are the best videos on 3dprinting and that is not because of the information supplied but rather the person delivering them, fantastic. However just one small point, when using G91 in g-code this is an incremental move not relative i.e. every move is calculated from the last position. Relative is relative to a central point i.e. xo, yo, (G90). This kicks back to my early days in CNC machining so it may be seen differently nowadays however I do see that Marlin describes this as relative but on any CNC Gcode sites it is described as, "Incremental programming", a small point I know but if people go on from 3dprinting to CNC machining it becomes quite a big point to understand the difference, especially in the Z direction!

[@daphoosa]

The correct terminology is Absolute Positioning for G90 and Incremental Positioning for G91. Relative is not an unreasonable substitute for incremental.

[@JanKopanski]

For those using Prusa Slicer use that "Before Layer Change gCode" in printer Settings tab; {if layer_z == 5}M204 P400{endif} {if layer_z == 10}M204 P800{endif} {if layer_z == 15}M204 P1200{endif} {if layer_z == 20}M204 P1600{endif} {if layer_z == 25}M204 P2000{endif} {if layer_z == 30}M204 P2400{endif}

[@00enea00]

This was exactly what I was searching for! Thanks for the clear explanation :)

[@rosserobertolli]

Of course you can adjust the printer firmware to reduce ringing but most of your accelleration happens in the infill. So reducing your firmware accelleration will slow your printer down more than needed. I use the reduced acceleration and jerk just for the contours and expecially the outer layer and I limit them in the slicer instead of firmware. This way I can speed up the infill and improve the aesthetics of the shell

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for sharing. This was the point I made at the end regarding acceleration control in Cura.

[@debren27]

Aren't the acceleration options in Cura more limited than in Marlin? I seem to remember X and Y were separate in Marlin but not in Cura.

[@OneHappyCrazyPerson]

Here before going thru the inputs shaping, zeta tuning and ft motion after that. 👑

[@Zigfryed]

To find the same parameters on PrusaSlicer, search for: layer (0) - to find the base layer 9:37 Z:5 - to find the layers that need to be changed by the M204 P parameter 10:15 (Z:5, Z:10, Z:15...)

[@Lampecap]

Just use Cura to manage the acceleration and jerk in the profile. I have an sidewinder x1 tuned in at 500/7 for print and 1000/8 for travels moves. Works flawlessly!

[@WrexShepard]

Unless you use linear advance in marlin. LA does NOT like when cura fucks with print acceleration at all. It causes all sorts of weird behaviour.

[@edtyson]

Another excellent video taking something very technical and simplifying it right down. Thanks Michael!

[@garybarbourii8274]

I just ordered my Artillery Sidewinder X1 v4 printer from Amazon today, and it looks like I'll be coming back to watch this video again in 2 days!

[@spikekent]

How I love to tinker, and you always manage to show me how to do it, even when I think I've done all the tinkering. Great video as always 👌

[@Nicholas-rm2gp]

Thanks for the interesting video, love your work! So after seeing the outcome I would say this kind of tweaking is more useful for people building their own printers or adding new extruders/hotends to an existing platform. I did not see any improvement over the stock settings, but I guess most manufactures would be trying to sell the fastest quality printer and would have done these tests already. One other factor would be printer rigidity e.g. If the belts on my prusa are not tight enough then I'll get ringing, perhaps you need more tension the faster you print.

[@SoundShunter72]

11:43 People should know that the Artillery Sidewinder X1 doesn't have "save to EEPROM" enabled by default. You're gonna have to flash a custom firmware to enable it or add any G-code commands to the "Start G-code" textbox in your slicer.

[@Rouverius]

Serious treasure trove of info here. Thanks. And thanks, Martin!

[@Terradives]

I’d love to see another video about strictly reading results with some obvious fails.

[@Toni_Toaster]

Very valuable tutorial by Martin and you. Thanks a lot. I managed to tune my Ender 3 Pro with Hemera to 150 mm/s. I printed a Benchy - that came out perfectly. :-)

[@uski]

What settings did you end up using ? Stock Ender 3 Pro ? This info would be useful for comparison purposes. Thanks

[@colintate]

It would be very interesting to see how this tuning could be adapted to Klipper. As Klipper runs on a Raspberry PI and sends only the final commands to the printer board, that should get rid of the pauses/process chugging. There's tests you can do on Klipper for Pressure Advance - but getting speed, acceleration and jerk tuned as well would be fantastic.

[@NicksStuff]

Clear and comprehensive guide, nice!

[@Viking8888]

Until watching some of your videos, I had no idea 3D printers were so fiddly! I am leaning towards getting the Ender 3 Pro as my first so I subscribed to your channel knowing now that you will help me get up to SPEED.... in a hurry! ;)

[@TeachingTech]

Modifying and tuning them is fun but most will print quite well stock, so don't feel pressure to tweak unless you want to.

[@Viking8888]

​@@TeachingTech​Thanks mate, I appreciate that! I am curious though if there are any other printers you would recommend, perhaps more so than the Ender 3/3 Pro for under, say $350 US, or would it be best the stick with the E3 Pro and maybe do some mods down the road after I've shed the newb title and know what I want more?

[@timm3802]

@@Viking8888 Ender 3 Pro is the best for the prize. You will enjoy it.

[@Viking8888]

@@timm3802 Thanks Tim, I appreciate you saying that!

[@daltonmason62]

If you have a budget of $350 then hands down go with the ender 5. That was my 1st printer (bought it a little over a year ago) and its phenomenal. Basically the same as an ender 3 (so all of the e3 upgrade videos will still work) without the issues that occur with "bed slinger" printers.

[@spacekoaster]

Very good video. My K8200 is well tuned now :) Thank you very much for your work!

[@toyotaboyhatman]

nice job on the math for figuring out top speed / jerk / acceleration. While a giant fan sorta cools things down, I don't think it's doing what you think it is simply because it's a large mass of air but not high CFM. I have an ender 3 with stock firmware, but I have a larger fan like prusa does blowing directly at my nozzle (no bend that would cut down on speed) and I can easily print 80mm/sec without artifacts.

[@thecriticalriposte]

So awesome! Thanks for mentioning Martin!

[@paperclipsdamnit]

@Teaching Tech​ ; Would be really interesting to see the difference between marlin and klipper, utilizing the same printer in regards of the blobs.

[@TheDefpom]

The speed of extrusion will vary depending on your nozzle temperature or even brand of filement.

[@evanphi]

If you watch to the end of the video he mentions that specifically, and it is why you should detune slightly to account for these differences.

[@gabrielalej]

I have two Artillery X1. You saved me the job! thanks!

[@TeachingTech]

I ended up lowering the acceleration to 700 from the factory 800. It may even be worth going even lower. Something like 600 is still more than many printers.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

Ran the volumetric tests and found that my Titan clone could in fact easily push F480, but the printed mount I'm using would torque upward significantly above about F420 so I settled at F360. That's still a good 150mm/s by your spreadsheet.

[@Medivh78]

Dang man this is gold. Great work for x1 !

[@larryfroot]

Aww. I thought for a minute you could help my tinnitus! Disappointed, I tell you! Disappointed! In a seriousness, excellent content. Thank you.

[@KentoCommenT]

OH MY GOSH DOOD I've just started trying to tune this and just hoping anything sticks because there's like no information on it, and then this video shows up!!!

[@creamysbrianna]

Guy 1: What does my tattoo say that's on my back? Guy 2: Dudeeeeee Guy 2: What does my tattoo say that's on my back? Guy 1: Sweet rinse and repeat about five times. LOL sorry saw you say dude and had to reference that movie.

[@eximiamedia7897]

Would love to see a video on tuning/optimizing acceleration and jerk based on machine kinematics. I've always wondered if on an ender style machine, with the large difference in moving mass between x and y, the values of acceleration and jerk should be different as well

[@hanseriklange]

Good video! I definately need to do this on my Ender 3 Pro with the Hemera. But one dislike? Is Design Prototype Test still watching your videos? :D

[@RomanoPRODUCTION]

Madlad

[@snelinternet4654]

Who is Design Prototype Test? Did I miss something?

[@Michallote]

@@snelinternet4654 hes some asshole who has even acussed Josef Prusa of stealing ideas from him, he super pro-american to the point of ridiculousness (he one time refused to use the SD drive which came with the 3D printer because he feared China´s government would use it to spy on him.) 😂😂😂😂

[@paxmortum]

@@Michallote ... but uses googles nest, which for sure does 😂😂😂

[@mschild95]

The value of the junction deviation has the unit mm. It tells you how much the actual (rounded) path on a 90° corner deviates from the ideal sharp corner at max. So actually a higher value won't introduce more ringing or artifacts but a less sharp corner (at less print time) so printing a 20x20x20 cube might be enough to tell the difference. Although I am not sure how target speed matters here and if you would get a 20mm dia circle if you print a 20x20x20 cube with a junction deviation of 4.1421 (which translates to a junction radius of 10mm)...

[@appideas7944]

"a higher value won't introduce more ringing or artifacts" That's not true. Increasing junction deviation increases jerk speed, and if your motor takes a junction too fast for its weight and torque, ringing will increase. I have hundreds of hours of witnessing this phenomenon. A higher value "up to a point" won't increase ringing - that's true. But at some junction speed (dependent on the physics of your printer), ringing will appear, and increasing junction deviation will amplify the defect. JD = 0.4 * (jerk^2/acceleration). Do the math on a few different numbers for JD, and you'll see that increasing JD increases jerk speed. You can find lots of info on Google about what happens when you increase jerk speed. Better yet, increase your printer's JD to something ridiculously high without making any other changes, and see for yourself.

[@mschild95]

@@appideas7944 true, some absurd high numbers will introduce more ringing. But I just want to state clear that JD and Jerk are not the same thing calculated by a different formula (your comment sounds like that in some parts although I am sure this is not what you meant). These two are different ways of motion planning and the formula only holds true for cornering speed on a 90° corner. While jerk always tries to move a perfectly sharp corner, JD allows for slightly rounded edge

[@daphoosa]

Junction deviation does NOT modify the path of the extrusion. It uses a virtual arc to compute the junction velocity between line segments. Increases in JD force the machine to travel through the programmed path at a higher speed. This can induce more ringing.

[@Fenweekoh01]

i swear my printer printed its best straight out of the box before i started screwing with things. but hey where is the fun in not breaking things and learning

[@Mersh_mellow]

Same. Dual z screw and direct drive, and all metal hot end really screwed my quality, I'm finally not being lazy and trying to fix it.

[@SamSpiri]

Might be you just didn't notice how ugly was first prints, because they are always looks amayzing to a nuewbie.

[@redheadsg1]

I had slight problem with ringing and i fixed it by dropping acceleration in Cura to 350 ms but i need to try this and optimize my printer even more.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

Excellent video! Though now you'll have to do that for each of your printers for each type and color of filament you own. Sounds tedious, but you can use the most conservative numbers for each type of filament. Also note that the silk PLAs will act somewhere between PLA and TPU for extrusion.

[@joanS12]

I printed a calibration cube (20mm) with different value of Junction deviation and it’s day and night regarding the sharpness of the corners!

[@HooligusMaximus]

This was a really helpful tutorial! Thank you so much for sharing this!

[@christopheraquino-nb8vw]

Hey Michael, great work. Thanks for everything, I know your busy........but uhh........if your listening..........spread sheet.

[@OJesusX3]

Thanks man. I've always wanted to understand the concept of "jerk" in 3D printing for years, but you are the first to help us understand why it affects what it does. The graphs were super helpful. Thanks man. And stay awesome! 😌🌎✨

[@matthewluttrell9413]

So if Marlin 2.0 uses junction deviation and Cura is generating a gcode with jerk what's going on when the printer is reading that?

[@davidguo4123]

excellent, wonderfully descriptive and helpful.

[@tommyc8333]

Another excellent video. BUT, as a newbie, I got nothing out of it. You might as well been speaking Chinese to me. You guys have to remember that a LOT of us are not programmers. Anyway, keep up the good work, I just wish you had "For Dummies" series.

[@randomdamian]

I can not access the excel table from the description as there is no link to any google document

[@RCMlll]

If you have a nozzle that is 0.4mm and a line width that is 0.048mm, then that means you will have a separation between each line of 0.08mm. This may be compensated in line width overlap. Not too sure why you would do this though. I have tested this exact thing on CURA and you can see you the line separation in the preview mode increases as you increase the line width.

[@jsa2145]

Excellent video, as usual. Thanks for the website it's amazing :)

[@Graham_Wideman]

Michael: 12:18 you mention you updated the firmware on the X1 -- I'm not seeing a video on that, and I would be very interested in what that entailed. Great video as usual!

[@TeachingTech]

I downloaded Marlin 2.0, got the X1 config files from the artillery3D folder and overwrote the ones in the Marlin folder. That's it!

[@Graham_Wideman]

@@TeachingTech Thanks Michael! That somewhat reduces my apprehension that there may be pitfalls doing that upgrade.

[@acrylix3073]

The units for 'Reliable feedrate' at step 5. are implicit and ambiguous. The correct units appear to be mm/m, but units of mm/s are suggested by the calculated 'max reliable xy feedrate'.

[@marsrocket]

Acceleration has a big impact on printer sound as well. It can go from a quiet buzz to a loud screaming beep.

[@gregoryp203]

thank you for this. If the test model didn't show any variation for junction deviation values, then how do you know it works as a valid test for junction deviation. also s-curve is supposed to allow higher acceleration without ringing. Klipper doesn't include it because ,as noted by a klipper developer in their scm site, s-curve has never shown to make a difference so it was decided not to develop it in klipper. It would have been interesting to see it it made a difference.

[@Bakamoichigei]

Great video, as always! Gonna have to try this. 🤔

[@genau14zeichen]

Regarding the buffering problem: did you tune segment resolution and maximum deviation in your slicer?

[@GnuReligion]

Yes. In Cura under Mesh Fixes. Perhaps he could have done better by printing from the SD card to avoid the text over USB bottleneck.

[@Milkysunshined]

Plus, the buffer can be increased significantly in marlin. The base setting for the serial buffer is woefully low in marlin 2.0. I raised that a ton, and cut the sd card buffer in half since I print using octoprint almost exclusively. I've had zero problems since changing, but I usually print with a larger nozzle, so my communications are typically slower. I also have the creality silent board in my ender 3... so YMMV as always. I also set my baud to 250000, and haven't had any issues there either. Here's my buffer setting from configuration_adv.h //=========================================================================== //================================= Buffers ================================= //=========================================================================== // @section hidden // The number of linear motions that can be in the plan at any give time. // THE BLOCK_BUFFER_SIZE NEEDS TO BE A POWER OF 2 (e.g. 8, 16, 32) because shifts and ors are used to do the ring-buffering. #if ENABLED(SDSUPPORT) #define BLOCK_BUFFER_SIZE 32 // SD,LCD,Buttons take more memory, block buffer needs to be smaller #else #define BLOCK_BUFFER_SIZE 32 // maximize block buffer #endif // @section serial // The ASCII buffer for serial input #define MAX_CMD_SIZE 96 #define BUFSIZE 64 // Transmission to Host Buffer Size // To save 386 bytes of PROGMEM (and TX_BUFFER_SIZE+3 bytes of RAM) set to 0. // To buffer a simple "ok" you need 4 bytes. // For ADVANCED_OK (M105) you need 32 bytes. // For debug-echo: 128 bytes for the optimal speed. // Other output doesn't need to be that speedy. // :[0, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256] #define TX_BUFFER_SIZE 32 // Host Receive Buffer Size // Without XON/XOFF flow control (see SERIAL_XON_XOFF below) 32 bytes should be enough. // To use flow control, set this buffer size to at least 1024 bytes. // :[0, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, 512, 1024, 2048] //#define RX_BUFFER_SIZE 1024 #if RX_BUFFER_SIZE >= 1024 // Enable to have the controller send XON/XOFF control characters to // the host to signal the RX buffer is becoming full. //#define SERIAL_XON_XOFF #endif

[@GnuReligion]

@@Milkysunshined Thank you for this about the buffers. My board is an Anet, and I sure would like to bump up the baud rate from Octoprint to something higher than 115200. The AVR Mega USARTs can do a megabaud. I do not know how hard it would be to make a direct connect from the Pi to the mega1284 though, with that USB bridge chip already there. The logic level conversion (3.3/5V) is easy enough.

[@debren27]

@@Milkysunshined Thanks for this! I have stuttering and blobbing on curves on my CR-10S5. I haven't had a lot of time to dig into it but I have tried a few things, but I didn't know about serial buffer settings. I print only through octoprint so I need to check this out.

[@BjarkeFH]

When you find the max feedrate you printer can handle in the beginning, you test with G1 Fxxx commands and find that 420 is the max. After calculation you find that the max print speed is roughly 180 mm/s, and you choose a safe value of 150 mm/s. However in the video at 9:31 we see the gcode generated by the slicer with at print speed set to 150 mm/s, and we see G1 F4500, which is far above the max feed-rate you found in the beginning. How can this be? I really cannot understand how that would work? I see the same when I follow you steps, and I don't understand it.

[@frank124444]

it might be a year late. but for others: the F comand is in mm/min instead of mm/s sofra i know.

[@a7xfanben]

Thanks for the great tutorial!

[@avejst]

Great walk through Thanks for sharing this great video :-)

[@FrancoisMathieu]

Very interesting. Thank you.

[@Ericweird]

wheres the document you use from the video?

[@Lordcito]

Hi there! where can I find the Excel Spreasheet? Thank you!

[@kamiko-i5g]

like these tutorials because even after calibration it comes out worse than it did for me before

[@katzolik]

When printing that fast and slowing down a lot for corners.. you get cornerswell and blobbing on corners like in all your test prints. Especially on the boat. You should test linear advance or better: Just use klipper with pressure advance!

[@TeachingTech]

Linear advance is definitely a winner, I have two videos on it.

[@surf8168]

Sorry @ 6:56, Velocity is a measurement of displacement over time and acceleration is a measurement of displacement over time over time, position and displacement are not the same thing. if an object started from 0 line and went 10 steps, and came back to starting position at 0 line, its speed would be position over time ( 20 steps/ time (round trip) ) while it displacement is just 0 . displacement measures the starting point the objects final point, it does not care what happens between.

[@reidprichard]

Awesome video, thanks. Your videos have been a huge help to getting started 3D printing. After printing the acceleration calibration, I realized the G-code had a M201 command setting XY acceleration to 500 mm/s^2 max - do I need to remove this line and reprint? From what I'm reading, M201 limits acceleration set by M204, but it's not super clear.

[@janview5502]

For Jerk I can just change the Jerk values in Cura before slicing. Now I want to update my printer´s firmware to a newer version of Marlin which is using junction deviation. Is there any possibility for changing the junction deviation value in the slicer or do I have to do it via pronterface inside the firmware?

[@MrLelopes]

This was genius

[@allted]

I recently spent a ton of time on the Junction deviation and other accelerations on the CNC firmware I am trying to maintain. I could tune most all settings and spent most of my time on Junction deviation. I am honestly not seeing a difference in the setting, and as you know the gantry and is much more massive on the CNC's so I figured this would be clear and easy. I ended up trying different magnitudes even and I did not see a difference even using a 0.3mm tipped gel pen. Jerk was pretty easily tune-able, so I used those values and the Marlin linked equation and just set it there as it did seem better than jerk overall. So I guess my question is did you see any difference, did you test beyond those settings you showed?

[@TeachingTech]

I'm going to explore this more on other printers, but so far, like you, I haven't noticed a great deal of difference. I might run one tower with hugely exaggerated J values at the top just to verify it doing something.

[@kain0m]

I've noticed the same thing with junction deviation - hard to tell if it actually does anything meaningful, or if it simply acts like a very low jerk setting. I did notice that it printed noticeably longer when using junction deviation...

[@youtubevanced4900]

So I do the flow test as described here. My extruder can output fine at 480 but skipped at 540. I started noticing shorter amounts of filament each step up though. So at 120 it outputs a piece of filament at around 0.41. At 480 it's outputting filament at 0.5mm thickness. It's all even the whole way down except the first bit. At 360 it was about 0.47mm. You mentioned noticing inconsistent thickness but mine is very consistent, it's just very thick. Maybe I'll try a longer length and see what it does. Edit: so on 100mm extrusion the 480 skips. Tried 360 again over 100 and it's a good 0.5mm thick the whole way down. Guess I'll try it.

[@pleighto77]

At 8:50 you show how to slice it in one slicer, but i can NOT find the top or bottom set to zero in cura 4.11 so yeah no idea how to do this.

[@pleighto77]

tell it top and bottom layer set to ZERO even if it goes to orange to tell ya not to.

[@0PcHeLkaa]

Hi Michael and Happy New Year! I am now calibrating my Ender 3 after converting it into direct drive and using your web site, going tab by tab is such a great thing. Absolutely great job! I got to acceleration tuning and printed my first tower and was wondering what is the reason for printing bottom layer? It seems to be a pretty much waste of time and towers you show in video has no bottom layer. Is there a reason for that or is this a bug in your calculator? Many thanks and all the best for you!

[@BNSEFH]

Thanks for the excellent video. Very helpful. Do you happen to have a link to the cooling duct you are using at 12:47? I'd like to check that out. Thanks!

[@efnick96]

I have a question... Should you have linear advance enabled or disabled for this process? Edit: Also the timing of your video is perfect. I was literally thinking of doing an acceleration calibration for my X1 tomorrow. Good job Sir

[@martinpirringer8055]

It should be independent of it. Linear advance makes sure that the extrusion matches the movement and change of speed. Volumetric E is based on the capabilities of your extruder/hotend/filament combo. Acceleration and Jerk is based on your Hardware motion system. So all those are based on different things

[@jaynottelling5892]

@@martinpirringer8055 I have the Skr mini E3 board in an ender3pro. I haven't yet put new firmware on, but am researching what I wanna change. My menu lets me set jerk. My question is jerk or junction deviation much different, and which is better at what?

[@martinpirringer8055]

@@jaynottelling5892 I have not had the chance to compare the 2 in RL as I currently only have printers with Jerk. But its on my todo list for the future probably somewhen after the robotics season

[@WrexShepard]

Just a sidenote, Linear advance conflicts with Junction Deviation on some hardware, namely the TMC2208 stepper drivers.

[@RodneyChops]

I think K in linear advance is independent of this, but should someone tune this before or after these jerk settings? I would think limiting jerk would reduce the K needed?

[@ralmslb]

Thank for this video. Was helpful, however I feel it has a big flaw. I've been configuring a new Duet 3 board and if you don't raise your Jerk values, no matter how fast you ask the Acceleration, it will make little to no diference. My printer managed to print the test piece at 150mm/s and all the 6 layers had very similar results. Next I plan to do the test piece but taking into account Jerk at the same time as Acceleration, essentially printing the last mentioned test multiple times to find the best balance between the two.

[@archiekaragiannis]

I also have a Duet Board and had the same results. Did you manage to find out how to edit the acceleration ??

[@techjedi2878]

I am not familiar with the axis orientation of that printer, but it looks like the X and Y labeling on the model is reversed from the axis direction of the printer? Also, my slicer was defaulting to a path that visited the X and Y glyphs on the path from the shorter length of each side. I had to mirror the model to get it to path from the longer segment into the glyph. That might be worth mentioning to check for. Thank you for the tutorial!!

[@TeachingTech]

The X/Y labelling is intentional. I have an explanation on my website at the bottom of this page: teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#accel

[@TGF00Buck]

Do you turn off Jerk Control in the slicer if using Junction Deviation?

[@TeachingTech]

Yes. It would be sending M205 X and Y values which the firmware will ignore. I don't think it would break anything but it's effectively useless.

[@DoRC]

Now how do you fix those bulging corners?

[@KucharJosef]

Linear Advance ofc

[@DoRC]

@@KucharJosef no can do on my controller.

[@TeachingTech]

My 0.6mm nozzle CR-10 Max has the bulging problem but like Do RC I can't use linear advance due to the board running 2208s in legacy mode.

[@DoRC]

@@TeachingTech any other ideas?

[@jaynottelling5892]

@@TeachingTech on the skr mini E3, can I get linear adv going with the uart 2209s?

[@patrickrenschler]

Why is your line width set above 0.4mm for a 0.4mm nozzle? Is that recommended?

[@AirandEnergy]

In watching this video I wondered if you ever did a comparison of hot end types to show if one can melt more filament than another? Like E3D, Swiss,etc.

[@andreasrottmann4520]

i can't find the excel spreadsheet. where can i download it? i need the calculator. Thank you

[@zero_given]

this fucking guy is the ultimate guru

[@StumblingBumblingIdiot]

I commented in a thread on reddit where they were talking speed and said I normally print at the Cura default of 80mm/s and for vase mode I would up it to 120mm/s - this is on my Ender 5. I was told that my "cheap printer" could never reach those speeds which I just shrugged off because I do notice a difference when I change the speed. My question is this - can I reach those 120mm/s speeds on an Ender 5? From this video it looks very likely I can even with a stock hotend as long as I am printing something that has long enough straight/slight curved runs. I know it is also based on the cooling time per layer also and i have actually set that to 1 in Cura just to watch the vase mode print FLY ;) Once i can actually load Thingiverse (ugh I hope they get it fixed soon) i will snag your model and give it a go! Thanx!

[@TeachingTech]

According to the spreadsheet, and assuming the standard Ender 5 matches the standard Ender 3 I tested, with 0.4 line width and 0.2 layer height it should be able to top 130mm/sec. I agree on a vase print this should be quite possible. One foolproof test it just to print the vase twice with the two different print speeds and compare the print time for each.

[@musicalatv]

How do I modify the gcode to use the second nozzle? I am trying to calibrate ASA on the second nozzle on a Creatbot F430. It is a higher temp nozzle and I need to be able to use this nozzle when I get high temp filament. I have been able to recreate a lot of the tests in Cura. I have been able to print the box for flow cleanly. However, I keep getting garbage retraction towers, so I thought I needed to work on acceleration, but it appears that I can't change acceleration on the Post Processing Plugin on Cura.

[@musicalatv]

I found it! T0 is the main print head, T1 is the left print head.

[@boondockfan1975]

Interesting video, will try this out on my X1, good work :) Maybe a stupid question, but why is the test piece oriented like y=x and x=y (around 10:50 in the video)? Shouldn't it be turned 90°?