Gibson Tune-O-Matic Proper Alignment to Factory Specs

A video that will answer the age old Tune-O-Matic questions: Which way should the intonation screws face? What direction do the saddles go? Wrap around tailpiece, good or bad? For reference; the nickel Tune-O-Matic is a Nashville, the rest are ABR-1 style bridges. I hope this is useful!
Cliffs Notes:
On the Gibson ABR-1 The intonation screws face the neck.
The Nashville Bridge the intonation screws face the rear, strap button end of the guitar.
The saddles are ‘generally’ with the low E and A strings; the flats face the rear, butt end of the guitar. The other 4 saddles, the flats are oriented towards the pickups/ neck of the guitar. In my experience Gibson used to orient the saddles w/ the 3 wound strings, the flats face the rear, the three treble strings, the flats face the pickups/ neck.

[@darkdazing8740]

Congrats on 100k views dad!

[@thevyd5588]

This is so wholesome and makes me want to support this channel

[@marshallsanchez2070]

Congrats on 200k!

[@ronstewart5922]

Excellent video my brother! This really helped me out and I appreciate it. Thx man

[@sunbrookcondo4179]

Bridge screws do not always face forward on Gibsons. Gibson uses more than one type of bridge, primarily the ABR-1 and the Nashville. One has forward screws, other has rear screws.

[@Metalcop5150]

Sunbrook Condo Thanks for sharing your opinion.

[@Metalcop5150]

Yes, just as I stated in the description. This video deals with the ABR-1 that Gibson has used since the 50’s in 90% of their tunomatic guitars. NOT the Nashville, which is much lesser used.

[@andyfreeman7395]

Many thanks. Sorted my SG copy by reversing the bridge (screws facing tailpiece), swapping saddles around, changing their order to reflect string size and filing screw seats.

[@festushaggen2563]

Thanks for the information. I'm currently restoring my old Les Paul Studio and want to get it back to like new condition. The factory bridge settings were a big question mark for me. This was helpful. 👍🏻

[@renek243]

I own a '94 Les Paul Studio and the intonation screws of my Tune-O-Matic have always faced the tail piece instead of the neck since I bought it brand new. I checked pictures of current LP studios and they also have the same bridge setup like mine and not like the Epiphone in this video. Apparently it varies between models.

[@mattg082]

I own the same 94 Les Paul studio though. I’m restoring, and have always had it facing the tail piece. Just using the screw driver and hitting the pickups makes it difficult. But if it helped in some way I do it…are you still going with yours out to the tail piece direction? I’m about to restring mine tonight.

[@sparkyguitar0058]

On my 97 studio, I replaced the original bridge with a Tonespro locking bridge. The screws are on the inside( towards the pups) and intonation is awesome cause there is extra space. And as having gold trim, I didn't like putting new parts on a older guitar but cheap plating helped wear it out enough to look right within a yr of playing.

[@expediant121]

was looking for a video like this and your honest as well. Well done. Definitely like this video.

[@Metalcop5150]

Thank-you so much! Most of the comments have been guys looking to discredit me and argue that I'm wrong etc. I sincerely appreciate receiving the positive feedback. Please consider subscribing to my channel! Thanks again.

[@gunsofsteele]

I do not think too many of us are playing in front of 5000+ crowds bending the high E 12th fret F# up to Ab and holding it forever like Carlos on Europa. Just set it up to your preference and ROCK!!! AKKA-DAKKA BABY!!!

[@Metalcop5150]

Okay…

[@mikewalsh7318]

I bought a Les Paul Traditional, 2015 model. The Nashville bridge came with the adjustment screws facing the tailpiece and the saddles all had the flat sides facing forward.

[@exit209]

My 2011 SG Standard came setup from Gibson like that too.

[@Metalcop5150]

The factory spec of the ABR-1 is with the adjustment screws facing the neck. These guitars are built by humans, that make mistakes or perhaps that particular assembly tech prefers the bridge that way. If you are looking for the proper factory specs, this video is for you.

[@Metalcop5150]

@@exit209 Cool.

[@exit209]

@@Metalcop5150 The Gibson factory spec for Nashville is the opposite though, it’s not a mistake. Gibsons with a Nashville bridge come with the screws facing the tailpiece.

[@dtworzguitar5775]

Fyi I called Gibson and they told me Nashville bridge screws face towards the TAIL. ABR1bridge Screws face neck. Not trying to be a know it all,i was just trying to find out cause I kept seeing them every which way. I really enjoy your Videos.

[@Metalcop5150]

This IS the Gibson company line. However, the majority of modern US made Gibsons (and Epiphones fwiw) that are made with the Nashville bridge and come from the factory with the screws facing the neck. The ABR and ABR1 always came with the screws facing the neck. Gibson changed that, due to the slightly wider width of the Nashville bridge, but it really doesn't seem to have 'stuck' as the rule in the factory if that makes sense. Either way, it really doesn't matter, as long as the guitar intonates properly and plays well - - set it up however you would like!!

[@charlesoliver2535]

My SG came from factory with the intonation screws to the back bevels to the back.

[@arthurhoffman6520]

This is the best video on this so far. Very helpful, thx.

[@DJ.LakeSea]

I like your argument for having the tail-piece low, but not too low. It makes sense that it puts lets pressure on the tail-piece support posts, not sure if it really affects the sustain though. Ever since I saw a video with Slash's guitar tech I've set mine up higher, so the angle from saddle to tail-piece is only about 10 or so degrees. Apparently this way it reduces the chance of string breakage at the tail. I believe it helps too with tuning the wound strings, as less angle decreases the chances of the windings 'catching' on the saddles.

[@Metalcop5150]

DJ Lake Sea Yeah, that is definitely one of those ‘your mileage may vary’ type scenarios. Zakk Wylde swears that the top wrap, in conjunction w/ screwing the tail piece, flat against the body, increases sustain?! Billy Gibbons likes the top wrap too. I just say try everything, and see what works best, for you. One of the best sounding guitars I own is an SG Jr with the single overwrap tail piece!! And it is mounted waaay off of the body. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing if you don’t already!

[@DJ.LakeSea]

@@Metalcop5150 Yeah definitely, all we can do is try things if see if they work for ourselves. Subscribed.

[@6wille]

Agree with your assertions about keeping angles as low as possible without over stressing the string retainer. the issue is that the anchors for that thing are placed in a direction perpendicular to the forces on it. Maybe not the best engineering idea. And so the higher the adjustment, the more tendency it has to rock around and the weaker it gets. Once it's raised past a certain point, it's stability can probably be improved quite a bit by raising it a bit more then inserting a couple of fat spacers in there and tightening it down on them.

[@Metalcop5150]

@@6wille Agreed. That's why Gibson/Epi went with the inserts, instead of the old Nashville style posts, that screwed directly into the wood. I have seen many players, attach a 2nd set of thumb wheels, to the Nashville style posts to give them added support, against the body. It is a poor design, but it has been corrected, over the years. I believe that Gibson also uses a slightly less steep neck angle, for this very same reason. Not on the historics, obviously, but on modern guitars. Not 100% on that, though.

[@savagelouie7007]

Wow! Thank you so much! It's the video I needed.

[@mikepj1025]

Very helpful. Thanks. This was driving me crazy. I have a 2016 Traditional and I prefer the screws facing the back.

[@ericocampo4427]

Super informative...Thanks for helping to clear that fog.

[@Metalcop5150]

Glad to help out. I needed something just like this, checked KZbin, and it didn't exist, so I made the vid!! Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing, if you don't already!!

[@spikesguitarcamp]

Great vid. I've been contemplating getting another stop bar tail piece for my custom shop LP so I can overwrap, and not mar the original. AND..my super expensive custom shop LP came with the bar right on the body with all the strings digging into the edge of the bridge...gotta love it...🤨

[@DanielLopez_17]

Thank god for this video. I made some dumb adjustments on my TOM bridge guitar and could never get it to play right. All good now.

[@Metalcop5150]

Glad I could help! That was really the entire point of this video. If you wanted to return your guitar, or just to have the knowledge, how the TOM came set-up from the factory. So many people missed the point! Really happy that you got it...

[@MikeLike8]

Thanks for sharing this. I have spent time getting to know my guitars better and the individual characteristics at the headstock (tuners, nut, geometry, etc.) and tail (bridge & tailstock) that impact its performance (sustain, tuning, etc.). There are things I have learned and some I have a theory about relating to best practices I'm working through. Sharing this as a baseline parameter really helps as this is the way Gibson comes out, set up from the factory. There is a reason for this, and it would be nice to hear right from them on why they went about what they did from their mouths. Knowing what changes do and their related improvements and compromises when doing them is valuable as one works to get the best setup for you and your guitar.

[@percys9427]

Good video I have my first Les paul and this video was helpful Thanx

[@solrackai1]

Thank you. This is exactly what I needed to know

[@BigDawgz10309]

Excellent video dude. You answered a lot of questions.

[@Metalcop5150]

Glad I could help!

[@BigDawgz10309]

@@Metalcop5150 I need to reverse one of my screw heads, but doesn't want to unscrew. does it just need more force to unscrew, or am I missing something

[@Metalcop5150]

@@BigDawgz10309 Put some penetrant fluid on it, like PB Blaster or even WD40 etc. and let it sit for a while. Then gently try and work the screw back and forth to remove it. You don't want to break it! Also as simple as it sounds, make sure you have the right size screwdriver! lol Too big or too small will wreck the screw head. Take your time!! It'll come out.

[@csederqvist]

On the Tune-O-Matic, the direction of the intonation screw-heads is only a matter of personal preference and for practical purposes. If you have the back piece higher than standard, it's just impractical to adjust the screws if the heads are facing the back, so it's usually easier to have them facing the neck. Also the height of the two pieces is personal preference, and will affect the string action / string height. Some prefer them higher, some like them lower. As long as the strings dont touch the back-end of the sadle piece as shown in the video, you're fine. Sometimes you need to adjust the height slightly different on each side (bass / treble) as well, to avoid strings that buzz on the lower frets. Generally, the less of an angle you have on the strings from the back piece to the saddle piece will cause less string tension, and will make strings easier to bend. Depending on the string thickness you use this might need some adjustment as well. Which way the individual intonation "shoes" are facing is usually set up like you show in the video, bass strings lean one way and treble strings the other, but this is also something you might need to change if you can't get intonation right, and need more or less range for tightening the string tension. Every guitar is different, and a lot of these adjustments are only personal preference. Epiphone Les Paul guitars often come with a horrible setup, so this is usually a trial and error process to get strings not buzzing and to get intonation right. In the end it all comes down to first adjusting the setup to make the guitar sound right from a technical perspective, intonation, string height / buzzing, etc, and the rest is just personal preference.

[@Metalcop5150]

Chris Sederqvist Very well written explanation. I agree with everything that you said, 100%!!However, the only purpose of this video, is to show how your Gibson or Epiphone Tunomatic comes set up, from the factory. As stated in the video, you can change the orientation of the entire bridge, or the individual saddles, to your hearts content. As long as it will intonate and play, it makes no difference. If all you wanted is the definitive guide to how they come from the factory, this video is for you!! Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing if you don’t already!!

[@Bill-bj9yx]

Does the TAILPIECE have to be even/level? As I have the BRIDGE slightly lower on the treble side for obvious reasons so I wasn't sure if I should have the TAILPIECE slightly at an angle also or always even?...Thanks!

[@evanabbott2737]

Thank you🤔👍

[@evanabbott2737]

Bill yeah I want to know too, I’m having the same problem🤔

[@BigDawgz10309]

Some guitars don't intonate, UNLESS you reverse the screw-heads.

[@colasko8006]

Good vid. I'm liking the fine tuning tail piece. Thanx.

[@jimjim7008]

I have Gibson Les Paul custom and from the factory Tail piece all the way down. Nashville bridge screws facing opposite to yours. It plays flawlessly happy to keep it that way the next time I change strings.. keep it simple

[@Metalcop5150]

@@jimjim7008 Yes, the Nashville bridges (as a rule) have the screws facing the ‘butt end’ of the guitar. I specify which is which in the description. The video is in regards to the far more widely used ABR1. And as I said in the video, it doesn’t matter which way the bridge faces, as long as it’s properly intonated. I also prefer the tailpiece is screwed all the way down to the deck, and then over wrapped, if necessary. I also use the extra ball end trick, so that the sharp tied string ends don’t end up on the tailpiece, and into your palm!! Lol Glad you’re happy w/ your guitar,if it works? I wouldn’t change a thing either. Thanks for watching and commenting. 🤘

[@gpdude22]

Received a factory fresh Gibson LP last month. Screws were facing the tailpiece.

[@Metalcop5150]

Mortuus Rationem kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpOtZZWkaJ6dpbs

[@b.w.22]

I wonder when they standardized this: my 93 SG ‘61 reissue came with the screws facing backwards. I’d like to swap it around though because the strings ride on the screws without the stop being kinda high up.

[@sle2470]

I have a 2011 Gibson 50's Tribute Les Paul and it came from the factory with all the flats facing the front and the screws facing the back. Plays and intonates just fine. Something you forgot to mention though is that the saddles come in three different heights with the two tallest in the middle (D and G) and the two shortest on the outside (high and low E) to compensate for the radius of the neck.

[@Metalcop5150]

Good info on the saddles! I have doubts that your guitar actually came straight from Gibson like that. You can't purchase directly from Gibson, so there is always a retailer involved. If they are decent at their job, they will always inspect and tweak a guitar, even if it's brand new. A lot of the major re-sellers like Guitar Center, Sweetwater etc. even have large receiving depots where the guitars are set up (or they are supposed to be) before they go out to the store fronts.

[@Metalcop5150]

@@oh-totoro Dude sees literally 2 guitars and states, unequivocally that it’s how Gibson set up ALL their Tunomatics, since the dawn of time. Gotta love KZbin and the self proclaimed experts it has spawned. Whatever you say, hero. 👌🤣

[@ryotaryuu]

Awesome video. Ive been looking for this forever.

[@Metalcop5150]

This is precisely why I did this video! There is not definitive video, telling you how to properly align your tun-o-matic, back to Gibson factory specs. Thanks a ton for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing, if you don't already!

[@finnzevo]

I've always wondered about this,thanks for finding out...

[@TractorMonkeywithJL]

I have 2 LP's with nashville bridges made in different years. Both came from the factory with the screw heads facing the tail piece.

[@Metalcop5150]

@@TractorMonkeywithJL Yeah, Nashville bridges face the other way. Covered in my description and 1000x over in the comments. The video is for the much more popular and widely used ABR1 that’s been in use since the 50’s. Thanks for watching and commenting. 👌

[@biggstile]

great very helpful video. I have an Epiphone SG it's a great player with a great neck however the lowest strings will not intonate and the bridge seddles are set up just like yours. I'm going to have to flip around the low E the A and the D just so I can get more reach so that they're not flat intonation at twelfth fret.

[@SafeAndTheGang]

How did the flips work out?

[@bassyey]

I have a 2020 Epiphone ES-335 Blueberry burst and you're correct. That's how my guitar was configured out of the box.

[@Metalcop5150]

Awesome! Thanks for the positive comment. I get so many who feel necessary to tell me that their guitar, brand new in-the-box, untouched by human hands, did NOT come this way?!! lol Thanks again, my friend.

[@EurekaRecycler]

Hi, Im building from scratch , What is the common design length/ spacing specs between the End Piece, The String Bridge and the pick up? Thank you

[@slowraceultra]

This video helped me out a lot. Thumbs up.

[@Metalcop5150]

Sincerely glad I could help! Most people just come into the comments to troll and criticize. It’s really nice to get some positive, constructive feedback. You rock. 🤘😎🤘

[@SteveHatzman]

I believe the Nashville style bridge has the adjustment screws towards the tailpiece.

[@Metalcop5150]

Check the description for the 'Cliff Notes' where I state the same thing. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing.

[@robertcaffrey6097]

The screw heads are facing the tail piece on my LP Custom and on my Epi Sheraton they are facing the neck either way is fine with me.

[@Metalcop5150]

Sure, it really doesn't matter which way they face. This video is just to advise the way that they arrive setup from the Gibson or Epiphone factory. If anyone cared about originality, and making their guitar perfect, like new, this video is for them! Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing, if you don't already!!

[@2dazetake]

Nice video bro,finally someone gets it right, the point of intonation is where the string eventually rest on the saddle, no matter what the saddle looks like, which way it's pointing or what it is made out of, some are nylon,the tuneomatic bridge always seems to be cock eyed,I imagine it's for intonation purposes,makes the stop bar look like it's off too, I'm not a big fan of wrapping strings over the tailpiece, I will save my old strings especially the unwound E and over wrapping puts a big dent in the strings,I tried it but didn't like it at all,easier to just raise the stop bar, and it looks better and feels better.

[@Metalcop5150]

True enough, my friend!! Flip your tunomatic frontwards or backwards, flip the saddles so they alternate, top wrap or don’t. It. Doesn’t. Matter. As long as it intonates and plays well? You’re all set. This video is just to let everyone know what the proper OEM factory specs are. 🤘😎🤘

[@renek243]

I own a '94 Les Paul Studio from new and it came with a Nashville Tune-O-Matic with the intonation screws facing the tail piece instead of the neck. I checked some pictures from when I just had the guitar and also from current LP studios and their set up is similar to mine. Apparently factory settings vary between models.

[@Metalcop5150]

Yeah, Nashville style bridges, the screws always face to the rear. This video is really about the ABR1 which is waaaaay more commonly used on Gibsons. I should have mentioned that. But the Nashville bridges are outnumbered like 50:1.

[@renek243]

@@Metalcop5150 thanks for the feedback, I believe the Nashville ones are common on the more affordable Studio and also on the Tribute, there are quite a lot of them around though.

[@auskip07]

adjustment out of the equation the sloped side should face the tail bar because of the downward angle.

[@Metalcop5150]

That is certainly another 'theory' to add to the many already existing ones! Seriously, break-angle is better for tone? Overwrapping the tailpiece is better for tone? Dropping the tailpiece to the face of the guitar is better for tone? Whatever works best for you, my friend!

[@spokes28]

I think the saddle screws pointing neckward would allow greater access for adjusting, easier to put a screw driver over a pickup than around a string perhaps. Just a note: I recently discovered while trying to switch from chrome hardware to black that some of these black bridges and tail pieces are not conductive, thus not able to provide a ground for the strings.

[@Metalcop5150]

Great info!! I was not aware of that. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@gregzen7896]

All you need to do to get around that problem is sand, scratch, or grind the paint off at the spot where the ground wire makes contact with the post.

[@spokes28]

@@gregzen7896 and then also where the strings make contact with the bridge I guess.

[@rodmills6750]

Interesting post 😀

[@arthurdduda63]

Dave's world of fun stuff is also a great channel to learn about how to set up and the proper factory settings.

[@TheMacBastard]

Did you ever put on the Kluson locking tuners? I have the same guitar and don’t know if I need the set with the bushing or the nuts.

[@Metalcop5150]

TheMacBastard I ended up installing them on a different guitar. They are the style w/ the nut, not the bushing. Those bushings stink, honestly, and once they loosen, that’s it for them. Worst case, you may have to ream out the hole, slightly, for the screw in type fastener. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing if you don’t already!! Lol

[@davidrees1840]

Fwiw: The decked tailpiece on that LP will eventually cause the bridge to collapse -that's 1 reason to top-wrap. Your 'FT1' tailpiece is a TP-6 and the string angle from a decked TP-6 to the bridge is the same as a top-wrapped std tailpiece.

[@Metalcop5150]

Really good info here, thank you! Guys like Zakk Wylde, ,Billy Gibbons and Joe Bonamassa all swear by decking their tailpiece and then top wrapping. Joe even does it on REAL ‘58, ‘59 bursts!! In all honesty, I’ve never tried it. I have two Les Pauls right now, one has a Floyd, the other a TP-6. Thanks for watching and commenting, and for the info on the TP-6 bridge height! 🤘😎🤘

[@davidrees1840]

@@Metalcop5150 You're very welcome!

[@LocalMachine]

Thank you, thank you x 1 billion. I searched everywhere for the answer to this due to me messing with my Gibson Les Paul Standard bridge, then not knowing where it should be to be at spec.

[@bobaldo2339]

I found cranking the tail piece all the way down increased tuning stability, and switching the metal saddles for Tusq saddles prevented any broken strings (this on a '67 SG with 12's).

[@Metalcop5150]

Those are heavy strings!! Lol Did you find that it collapsed the tunomatic or did you do a top wrap to keep the strings angle not as steep? (Not touching the tunomatic). Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support. 🙏

[@bobaldo2339]

@@Metalcop5150 Neither. It hasn't caused any problem. I used the old Gibson Monosteel Mediums on my SG's in the 60's. Now I use what is basically a DeanMarkly JZ nickel steel set. But, I do cheat and use only a 50 for the low E. I use 13's on all my acoustic guitars. I just can't deal with very light strings, even on an electric - say anything with an unwound 3rd. I will just break the strings. My bad. I'm an old guy.

[@demerit5]

Great video. Thanks for the upload. I'm getting back into playing guitar and this video helped me a lot.

[@johnholmes1423]

Hello there. Do you know for a fact that resting the strings on the back of the tune o matic bridge will make it lean? I have a Dean Gran Sport, and the tailpiece is screwed flat to the body. It is not designed to be adjusted, and the strings do sit on the back of the bridge. But Dean have this same tailpiece on a lot of their guitars, including custom shop 'made in the USA' models.

[@Metalcop5150]

John Holmes Yes, it is a fact. It is basic physics. The strings exert a great amount of pressure/tension. Gibson’s traditionally have the bridge setup somewhat high off of the body. Due to their steep neck angle. So you want all that string tension pushing straight down, not exerting force to the rear of the bridge. This assertion is backed up by 60+ years of poorly set up Gibson’s with forward leaning bridges. Your Dean combats this with a flush mounted bridge. I don’t think Gibson will ever change or modernize their design!! Lol Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing if you don’t already!!

[@guitarcleveland]

My 2016 Les Paul Traditional came with the bridge screws facing toward the tailpiece, and all saddle flat sides facing the pickups from the factory

[@Metalcop5150]

JR216 Thanks for sharing.

[@RobNY5150]

Good info!

[@Metalcop5150]

Thanks Rob. I only posted this to try and help guitar players out, with how their Tune-o-matic bridges came setup by Gibson, at the factory.

[@rafaelpetterson2192]

Thanks for the video what about this here....my guitar has one of those intonation teeth - in this case from the high e string - screwed all the way to the end but the octave is still too small and the string is 25cent below e on the 12th fret. And yes the flatbed is already pointing towards the neck so I can't turn it around to have some extra millimetres.... Hope my description is clear What can I do ? any advice? Thx alot

[@Metalcop5150]

What kind of guitar is it? I'm assuming that it is not a USA Gibson, or even an Epiphone? No matter. The only thing that you could do is file down the intonation 'tooth' or block. Removing some material, from the face (towards the neck) may allow you to move it forward enough, so that it will intonate. Make ABSOLUTELY sure that you have a good setup on your guitar first! Perhaps a neck adjustment or a fret leveling etc. may take care of the problem. Some guitars just won't intonate perfectly, and that's OK, they are still completely playable, it's just a compromise. The very first Les Pauls, the intonation was non-adjustable and not super accurate. Even some modern PRS guitars used this same, fixed stop tail, with no provision for intonation adjustment. Hope this helps!! Good luck...

[@rafaelpetterson2192]

@@Metalcop5150 wow cool thanks a lot man really fast and good answer I'll try that out without fucking up my guitar I'll be careful ...maybe I should adjust the neck first ..see ya

[@maialopes7352]

Absolutely agree with Sunbrook Condo: "Bridge screws do not always face forward on Gibsons. Gibson uses more than one type of bridge, primarily the ABR-1 and the Nashville. One has forward screws, other has rear screws." Another thing: those posts doesnt seem to be from Gibson. The tune-O-Matic bridge dosent have slottedd posts...

[@Metalcop5150]

Forward on the ABR-1, backward on the Nashville. Already well discussed in the comments. This video is discussing the much more popular ABR-1 bridge, not the lesser used Nashville. Also, the example is an Epiphone guitar, not a Gibson, though modern Gibson’s do have the slotted or Allen keyed posts for easier height adjustments. 🤘😎🤘

[@JohnGreeneMusic]

Good work, thank you X

[@jacksibrizzi275]

I have a question please. If you want to change the height of the bridge on the Epiphone (first guitar shown), would you turn the flat head screw, or the thumb wheel? I have two of these bridges and the thumb wheel will not turn in either direction. There is no set screw to loosen either. Thank you.

[@Metalcop5150]

Jack Sibrizzi You need to adjust the thumb wheel on the tunomatic. Clockwise to lower the action, counter to raise it. You may have to loosen the strings, to take tension off of the bridge. A couple of drops of oil might help, too! Thanks for watching and commenting! Please consider subscribing if you don’t already.

[@jacksibrizzi275]

@@Metalcop5150 Thank you.

[@charlie-obrien]

@@Metalcop5150 Exactly the question I had for my new Epi ES 335. Thanks for the oil tip.

[@Metalcop5150]

Charlie OBrien Glad I could help! Please consider subscribing, and check out my other videos!!

[@xoxb2]

They usually won't move much with the strings at tension. Certainly not if you need to raise the bridge!

[@Diamond-yg4it]

Very detailed thanks!

[@Metalcop5150]

Glad you found it useful. Please check out my other vids and consider a sub! Thank-You.

[@taylorarnouville5482]

Could you please link or create a video demonstrating how to use and extra ball end as a spacer? I'm a little confused as to how that works.

[@RudyLukman]

you put the strings thru the ball end to act as a spacer. what is there to understand? i dont understand why you dont understand.. i can try to help if u can explain what you dont understand.

[@lubstorfk]

this video shows what you're looking for. It's only if you're top wrapping your strings. You use the ball off your old strings. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJKxe2CNaZyanrs

[@tonymanns8249]

ABR-1 & Nashville bridge adjusting screws are opposite. The ABR-1 screws are near the bridge pickup, the Nashville bridge screws are near the tailpiece.

[@Metalcop5150]

No necessarily! Modern LP's come with the Nashville bridge, and the screws are oriented, facing the neck. There are really no hard and fast rules, especially when it comes to guitars that are approaching 70 years old! The modern bridges, from the factory have the screws facing the neck. There are plenty of old advertisements, showing guitars from the 50's for example, with the screws also facing the neck. This is Gibson literature, featuring (presumably) factory fresh guitars. That is what I based this video on.

[@saenzarts]

Just bought a 2017 Gibson Firebird HP. Owner bought it in 2017 and pretty much never played - just kept in the case. Everything is MINT. Even the film is still on the pickguard and Gibson G-Force tuners. Plays amazing BUT I've got a buzzing from the open low E string. Once any note is fretted - buzz is gone. Suggestions?

[@Metalcop5150]

That’s an issue w/ the nut. It sounds like the slot may be cut too deep? I’ve seen the slot built back up w/ super glue and baking soda, then filed back to the proper height. If you’re not comfortable filing the nut, modifying it, or don’t have the nut files? I would take it to a qualified repair person. I wouldn’t want to replace the nut, on what sounds like an otherwise perfect guitar. Adding a bit of height in that low E string slot is really your best, and only option. Good luck.

[@DRYFLY0]

My 2010 Gibson Les Paul has the screw heads facing the back and the saddles all lean the same way. Works great.

[@Metalcop5150]

DRYFLY0 Your guitar is 10 years old and it has obviously been ‘monkeyed’ around with, quite a bit! Still, as you said, it works great for you! It really does NOT matter one but, which way the bridge or individual saddles face, as long as the guitar will properly intonate. Having all your saddles face the same way, you will lose some of that necessary adjustment. But you may not ever even need it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider a sub!!

[@AMBlues]

DRYFLY0 if your bridge is a Nashville bridge it is on right. Look at any picture on the Gibson website that shows a Les Paul with Nashville bridge and it is as you describe, the flat side of the saddle facing the neck and the adjusting screws facing the tailpiece. One of the benefits of the Nashville bridge is more travel for the saddles they all can be installed with the flat side facing the neck. That is so there is a definate edge (not a slope) where the string goes over the saddle. This is supposed to be better for intonation. In practice it probably makes little difference.

[@DRYFLY0]

@@Metalcop5150 I bought her brand new (Long and McQuade Calgary) and opened the box myself. It's a Studio in blue stain. They were avail for a couple years along with the red and ebony stain. I was just working with her as I changed to lighter strings and got a buzz. Was using your vid for help with stuff (thanks for posting!) and saw my bridge is definitely not normal :)

[@DRYFLY0]

@@AMBlues Wow, thanks! I just googled it and yes, I have a Nashville Bridge! Who knew!

[@acceleratorstudio4201]

My 2019 Gibson SG came from the factory like that too.

[@Bill-bj9yx]

Does the TAILPIECE have to be even/level? As I have the BRIDGE slightly lower on the treble side for obvious reasons so I wasn't sure if I should have the TAILPIECE slightly at an angle also or always even?...Thanks!

[@TempoDrift1480]

You want it level. As low as you can get it. Otherwise the posts will bind up in the channels.

[@daviddansereau1793]

Wrap Teflon tape around the bridge screws so they screw in tight. Restring the strings over the top of the saddle.

[@einfussganger]

Very helpful. When turning the thumbwheels to raise or lower the bridge, should the slotted bolt in the center move? I guessing no.

[@georgefurman7652]

Yes. Turning the screws raises and lowers the bridge also.

[@Daniel_Antonio_Arellano782]

Yeah, congrats (Dad). I just subscribed!! Very intelligent stuff.

[@Rick-uu5yo]

Joining late here. I have three Gibsons all originally with Nashville bridges and all came from the factory with the screws facing towards the tailpiece. If you look at the Gibson website, all the guitars sold with ABR bridges have screws pointing towards the neck and if with Nashvilles they point towards the tailpiece. Adjusting intonation from behind is easy; I do not understand why Metalcop thinks otherwise. The Nashvilles have greater range for adjustment and the screw heads are lower down in the body. As noted a million times, in most cases, it does not matter which way around the bridges are as long as the saddles are angled the right way and provide enough movement for intonation. One important watch-out that no one ever talks about is that if the bridge is simply turned around, the saddle notches are now wrong. In most case, it's probably unnoticeable but the notches, if done right, orient the string spacing and string in alignment to the pup pole pieces. Typically the bass string saddle notches are wider and lower that the high strings so turning around can result in a high E sitting loosely in a low E saddle slot. This can result in buzzing; I've seen and fixed this on other guitars by simply swapping the saddles around.

[@Metalcop5150]

Rick That’s a lot of good info!

[@wiseguy9202]

All the necks are hand set(on Gibsons not Epiphone) into the body so there'll be slight variations between the measurements. And the saddles point a specific way depending on how the tech set the neck. There is no right direction per say. The flat side of the saddle and bridge itself can point either way depending on the guitars intonation needs.

[@Metalcop5150]

Wise Guy 100% true!! Just like I stated in the video, it really doesn’t matter, which way the saddles face, nor the tunomatic itself, as long as it intonates properly. The saddles SHOULD face 3 to the rear, 3 to the front, as the bridge placement should be in a fixed location on every guitar. The purpose of the vid. Is just to show the proper factory specs, if anyone cared about such things?! Lol

[@cronicmanagergames42069]

my tunomatic is setup the same way with the steps i dont know if the shop done it when it was installed but its standard screws to the neck too

[@Metalcop5150]

Thanks for watching and commenting! I always appreciate positive feedback.

[@RageWin]

If I am not mistaken the Nashville type bridges (without the wire) will face the intonation screw heads facing the tail of the guitar. The ABR1 is the opposite and will have the head of the screw facing the headstock.

[@Metalcop5150]

Yes, that is generally the rule. Thanks for watching.

[@chrisconnelly5538]

I just read that historically, the ABR-1 bridges come from the factory with the screws facing the neck, while the Nashville bridges come from the factory with the screws facing the tailpiece.

[@Metalcop5150]

Christopher Connelly Please cite your source. And provide a link, if applicable. Otherwise, I’ll just consider this the typical contrarian comment, with no basis in fact.

[@chrisconnelly5538]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWPXZmCBbMdrg6c

[@Metalcop5150]

Christopher Connelly I’m not going to disagree with Trogly’s as he is a respected YT creator, and he knows waaaay more about Gibson’s than me!! I am also a long time subscriber to his channel. I believe that the bridges, with the screw heads, facing the neck, makes it easier to adjust your intonation. The other way is practically impossible. I find it hard to believe that thousands of players went through the trouble of swapping the orientation of their bridges AND changing out all 6 saddles, so that the slots are correct. I have always asserted that they came that way from the factory. No hard and fast rules, just like Trogly said - - it really doesn’t matter.

[@jerbear1601]

Why would you palm mute anywhere near the stop tailpiece? People keep saying that the string irritates their hand but you mute at the bridge so.....?

[@Metalcop5150]

You palm mute as close to the bridge as possible, to get the most percussive sound. That way you can move your palm (slightly) towards the neck for less ring-out or back towards the bridge for less. Your palm is inevitably going to come into contact with the bridge, if you are muting the strings. Not trying to be insulting, but it is a fairly easy, beginner type technique.

[@zombiet.5232]

Many players, myself included, will rest their hand behind the bridge when not actually muting.

[@ampegloud]

Jerry Robitaille Because this guys an idiot hack doesn't know what he's doing ,I've never heard anybody repeat themselves more than this guy totally unprofessional

[@Metalcop5150]

Steve I checked out your channel, but not surprisingly at all, you are just another zero content troll. Since you have nothing of substance to add to the YT community, other than posting unsolicited garbage opinions, YT probably isn’t for you. You’re dismissed.

[@lone-wolf-1]

With the adjustment-screwheads facing the tailpiece, its just a bit trickier to adjust. But is the better position for sustain and tuningstability. In this position, the force of the strings pushing the saddles via the neck is resting on the screwheads thigt to the bridge, and not the tiny C-rings. And if the bridge gets turned arround, you have to considder also swapping places of the saddles to its previous string, otherwise you end up having the wider slots on the thinner strings and therefor some buzz

[@Metalcop5150]

I would love to get the 'company line' directly from Gibson as to their proper set-up specs. But the newer ABR-1 bridges come with the screws facing the neck. I have 'heard' that the older Nashville style bridges, they faced the screws the other way? The old Gibson advertisements and literature does not support this, however. Thanks for watching and commenting! Please consider a sub...

[@AMBlues]

@@Metalcop5150 ABR-1 bridges came out in the mid fifties, they aren't the newer bridges. Nashville Tune-o-matics came out in 1977 so any ad before 1977 would be an ABR. Here is a link to a Gibson owners manual, literally the first link from the first Google search that I did. Look at page 20 in the manual.

[@AMBlues]

Forgot to add the link: media.americanmusical.com/ItemFiles/Manual/GibsonOwners_Manual.pdf

[@Metalcop5150]

A M Yeah I made this video a few years ago, and I stand by it. I just got the bridges reversed, in my head when I was responding to the comments. You are also confusing the ABR w/ the ABR1. The ABR1 is the modern bridge, not the Nashville. That’s what I was referring to. The Nashville is visibly wider and it gets retro-fitted a lot, if there are intonation problems. The posts are a larger diameter as well, so it isn’t a direct fit. Gibson QC isn’t what it should be and these things are all over the map, in orientation. It really doesn’t matter, as long as the guitar will properly intimate. This vid. was just to show the proper factory specs, if the guitar was even set up properly in the 1st place.

[@AMBlues]

@@Metalcop5150 No confusion on my part. When somebody says or writes ABR instead of ABR-1 (like I did above) they are referring to the same thing. www.gibson.com/Gear/Bridges/PBBR I have only been referring to Gibsons. I have posted enough on this already, anybody can read what I posted in the last few days on a couple other comment threads. I'm Out, PEACE! (Good Luck with that Cobra!) Alan

[@jameshill2015]

Great vid! My guitar was built with issues. It is a 2017 Les Paul Standard. This guitar was built with a compound radius, I bought it new keep in mind.. it is as it came from Gibson, now it starts at the nut with a radius of 9.5" then goes to 14" at the last fret, now continuing the radius to the bridge it would likely be a 19-21" radius..what did Gibson do? Slapped a standard Nashville bridge on it and called it a day. Im not sure what Gibsons radius is but Im guessing its 12" maybe..nowhere NEAR what is needed.. the result? very high action on the A,D,G and B strings after the 10th or 12th fret. Why bring this up? Its to point out that even Gibson sometimes has trouble innovating.. great, compound radius but its not what it should be because of a bridge that basically doesnt fit. Since the Tune-o-matic was made I believe there has been VERY little to improve this (by todays standards) archaic design. I realized the only way to correct the issue was to be able to individually adjust the string height. No Tune-o-matic does this..but Babicz. I am no "employee" or am I "paid to endorse" Babicz but it was truly my only solution. This bridge not only allowed me to get the action on my Les Paul incredibly low it also eliminates any mystery about saddle direction and it tightens down to the body which increased resonance by 15-20%. Did it increase sustain? Hard to tell..it didn't hurt it. Its solid to the body unlike the decades old ABR1 that sits on threaded steel pins. As far as the angle going from the tail peice to the bridge..the Gibson TP6 micro tuner is not near as low or have as much angle as a factory tail peice personally I dont see a need for such a drastic angle. I LOVE the TP6.. I think they should be standard on every tune-o-matic guitar made! Gibson only used them on their Super Customs and a couple other top of the line guitars..I have them on all the guitars that will take them.. My 18 HPll SG also sports a Babicz and TP6 and is dialed in so sweet it makes your teeth hurt to play it! Thanks for your video!!

[@Metalcop5150]

James Hill Thanks for your thoughtful and well written reply! It’s a rarity, these days, on YT. I would definitely say that you are constructively contributing to the YT community. Please consider subscribing if you don’t already!!

[@guitagious9464]

Caution when running the tailpiece all the way down to the body! This increases downward pressure on the bridge, and sometimes the bridge will even collapse! I had a brand new Gibson Les Paul from the factory and could not figure out why it wouldn't intonate correctly until a very good guitar technician discovered the bridge had collapsed (had sunken in the middle), so the string heights no longer matched the radius of the fingerboard, and thus the guitar would not intonate properly. (This condition is almost not perceivable by the human eye, but laying a 6" rule across the deck of the bridge will reveal it.) Installing a new tone-pros bridge corrected the issue, but I've been considering top-wrapping in order to reduce some of the downward pressure on the new bridge, as I still have the tail piece screwed all the way down to the body. I'm constantly worried the tone pros bridge may also collapse. But because of what happened with the original factory bridge, I personally see the advantage of top wrapping more as a means of reducing the chance of collapsing a bridge - not necessarily as a tone improvement or string tension reducer. Think I'm going to try it soon. I just hate that it leaves string marks on the tailpiece.

[@Metalcop5150]

Yes, I have heard about the Tune-O-Matic bridges actually collapsing! I thought it was more of an issue with the older guitars/bridges though? There definitely is no definitive 'right' and 'wrong' here, just whatever works best for you. Zakk Wylde and other players swear by cranking the tailpiece, all the way down to the body. However, they get free guitars, literally by the hundreds, so you have to factor that in. The average guy spending $3-$5K on a Les Paul doesn't really have that same luxury. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@guitagious9464]

@@Metalcop5150 , Mine collapsed on a Les Paul I bought new just a couple of years ago. I think the "zamak" alloy material Gibson used/uses for some of their hardware is hit or miss. (Mine missed!!) Oh well.. I still think Gibsons are some of the best playing instruments ever!!! Thanks for replying previously!

[@marcuslake9870]

Thank you, mister.

[@PittsburghTimeMachine]

Just asking around about this (sorry ahead of time about the long comment). I just received a Guild Surfliner ordered from Sweetwater, which has a tune-O-matic style bridge with no tailpiece since the strings come through the back. I did not pay for Sweetwater to set it up because I was going to take it for a setup locally. I’ve only set up Strat bridges. So my problem is that the bridge is set almost as high as this one, but unlike the guitar in this video the strings are still low, the neck is nice and straight and it plays smooth under my fingers. Also, because of how high the bridge is set, the strings pass over it at a rather sharp angle. So my concern is that I won’t be able to lower the bridge at all without needing to adjust the truss rod. Based on this description, does it sound like this guitar needs a neck shim? If so I’m sending it back. Or, is a high bridge and bridge pup acceptable if the strings are low? Basically I don’t want to spend the time and money on a setup and end up being told it needs shimmed. It looks ridiculous compared to the ones I’ve seen online, or any setup for that matter.

[@Metalcop5150]

You should be just fine. Some players swear by that ‘extreme’ break angle you’re talking about; gives better tone. I tend to agree. As long as you aren’t breaking strings or having any other issues. Look at some pics of other guitars like yours. It is likely that they are all set up that same way. If it plays good and it sounds good? It ain’t broke, so don’t fix it!! Lol When Gibson’s are set up w/ that extreme break angle, over the Tunomatic, it is what it is, you can’t shim the set neck. Just play it, my friend. 🤘😎🤘

[@davidgray8309]

If your just worried about string tension on the tail piece just add some washers so you can still tighten it it up to the body..I've never had an issue doing it that way and play tens.

[@Metalcop5150]

That’s a great tip!! Thanks for watching and providing constructive feedback. 🤘😎🤘

[@Satchmoeddie]

That is a metric Epiphone Nashville TOM bridge not a 1950s or 60s ABR Tune O Matic. The first TOM ABR 1s had saddles that fell out when there were no strings on the guitar. Then they added the retaining wires, with the ABR 2 TOM. Then came the move from Kalamazoo to Nashville and the bridges got wider and the saddles were held in with small spring C clips. Put some small heat shrink or some fiberglass & silicone wire protector over your strings behind the bridge. Then came the vertical adjusting TOM bridge with brass, steel or plastic saddle inserts, but it was short lived.

[@Metalcop5150]

One correction: The bridge on this guitar is a metric Epiphone, but it is based on the ABR1, not the Nashville. For clarification, all of the specs given pertain to the ABR type bridge of all iterations, not the Nashville Tunomatic.

[@JerryCrow]

The wraparound palmmute you mentioned is purely personal preference. You can way easier vary the amount of palm muting having the strings be the guides and not have a stop.. I came here to check what is the factory way of the bridge screws pointing at, but mmind you that there must be a reason for it to fit 2 ways. same with the stop bar. You could put that backwards, if you'd have a tailpiece to loop the strings around. Thanks for the ball end tip, gonna do that, I do see what you mean, i'm wondering is it required for the fat strings but i'll see that shortly after cracking open a fresh set of ernies

[@plinkbottle]

I like the tail piece up a little, as I feel it takes some of the tension out of the strings. It reduces the overall length of the string travel just a little.

[@Metalcop5150]

Every player has their own idiosyncrasies and methods that work for them. The Gibson scale length makes it easier to bend the strings, that is a fact. The tail piece set-up low or high, wrapped or not? I truly believe that has little or nothing to do with string tension. However, I say do whatever works for you. Even if you just believe it to be true. Hell, Warren DeMartini used to swear that chrome Floyd Rose trems sound better than the black or gold ones!! lol Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider a sub!

[@plinkbottle]

@@Metalcop5150 True but the scale length is different to the string length. Some jazz guitars have a tail piece that provides a different string length for the bass strings. The epiphone viola bass is a short scale bass with a longer body to accommodate standard length strings. This affects the string tension for standard tuning, generally more tension with increased string length.

[@94SexyStang]

My Gibson was absolutely Perfect from the factory! It was dialed sweet! Then I put New strings, and all the screws got moved, Lol.... It's my first Gibson, I had no idea about how anything worked. But you definitely need guitar setup tools if you're gonna have the gibson tune o matic or whatever it's called......you could also use some RTV or dab of silicone to keep the screws from moving when you take the bridge apart. But yeah ,those screws move SO easy when you switch strings, it literally takes Nothing for them to get Out of wack! But my Gibson also has Locking Tuner Pegs......which is a Game Changer.....so I will take Gibson style setup ANY day over other crap, Lol.

[@stevevallance6326]

Metalcop? I was LAPD for a long time, I don’t know if that’s what you are referring to?

[@elwolf8536]

I'm trying to intunate a led Paul it's a nightmare it's too sharp but I have no more room to move back on the saddle . Any suggestions before I lose my mind? pleas.

[@Metalcop5150]

Chris Lates If it is a legit USA made Les Paul, you should have plenty of room, back and forth, to set the intonation. If you do not, your problem is elsewhere. I would check the relief on your neck, it could be too bowed or too flat to properly set up your guitar. It may be time to admit defeat and take it to a professional!! Lol Only you can answer that question. Check out that neck with a straight edge, lots of good how to videos on You Tube. Good Luck, and please consider subscribing... thanks.

[@elwolf8536]

@@Metalcop5150 it's a legacy les Paul not bad quality at all it sounds beast. the neck is a little hollow but the truss rod seems maxed out . I think your right. I'll give it one last go before I hand it over lol. Thanks for reply and im now subbed.

[@deanmccaskill5495]

Here’s my prob. 2014 Gibson LP Classic. The 4th interval at the D/G open. I get like sweet consonance there. Now the thing goes farther and farther away the far up I go. The 12 open/12 fret seems right on to my eye and ear. The other strings too always take going over under back and fourth till I get them. Finally. These are Kluson. So I got this 2019 Classic. ( don’t worry I just don’t buy classics) with grovers you can’t punch that thing outta tune. Hey the string open and quarters turn it right to the spot. 9/10 time’s. So I’m thinking of putting an after market bridge / tailpiece/ nut and grovers. What u think? Oh and I lube all the part with some “ nut sauce” I think. Any thoughts? And before you all start shitting on me, these are ideas. IM lucky to change my strings without breaking too. Wish me luck don’t hope I fail so you can smugly say ....... mffff. Yup.

[@derin111]

Would it be the same on an Epiphone Sheraton Pro II ? Thanks for the clear video.

[@Metalcop5150]

Yes, it should be the same. As long as it’s an ABR 1 based bridge, all the same rules apply. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@pwnEdge1]

knew some of the tips ,but still interesting Thanks

[@Metalcop5150]

Cool, thanks!! 🤘😎🤘

[@abatista78]

Hi. There’s a correct string standard angle between brigde and the tailpiece?

[@abatista78]

I have a ES335 copy

[@Metalcop5150]

The short answer is “no”. Some players like to have their tailpiece mounted flat against the body, necessitating a much steeper string angle. I prefer to crank the tailpiece flat against the body and do a top wrap like Billy Gibbons or Zakk Wylde. You need to make sure that the strings aren’t touching the edge of the tailpiece, or it could push it out of alignment or even collapse it! There’s a lot of comments on this vid. from players who think that a steep string angle increases tension, which it absolutely does not. Try some different setups and go with what works best for you! Good luck.

[@allboutthemojo]

@@Metalcop5150 how do I find someone with your setup skill locally in Dallas Tx. Lot of people say that guys at the big shops like guitar center don't do a proper job . I just bought a LP style guitar. Have checked basic things that I know ( neck is straight, frets even with fret rocker check) but I can hear a lot of buzz on 6th E frets 1-3 and 5th A frets 1 - 2 . I don't have any knowledge of setups. Thanks PS- it appears to me that the action is too low or the neck needs to have more relief? I don't know for sure. Also approximately what would someone expect to pay for a setup that involves truss rod adjustment, action adjustment, and intonation adjustment if needed.

[@Metalcop5150]

Sz Ki Go to the smaller guitar shops. They should have a repair man on staff or be able to recommend someone. If you can find a true luthier, someone who builds guitars, that’s a guy who can setup any guitar! I’m sure in your area there must literally be 100’s of guys who can do quality guitar work! Good luck. Please consider a sub... lol

[@allboutthemojo]

@@Metalcop5150 thank you ! 👍 Subscribed!

[@ronlawrence5635]

Yes, this video is helpful. One more reason for having the tailpiece raised a bit, is to relax the tension on the strings a little, and it makes it easier to bend the strings. Gibson has used 10s for a long time, but 2 or 3 years ago, started putting a 9 gauge on the high E string. It does make it easier to bend, but it sounds bad. Use a 10 gauge, and raise the tailpiece a bit, and you should like it.

[@Metalcop5150]

I don't really notice a difference between the 10's and the 9's. I have used 9's most of my life, only recently switching to the coated Elixir strings and using some 10's. They are more difficult to play, and take some getting used to. I generally don't crank the tailpiece down, but some guys swear by it. There are so many variations that you can do, it comes down to personal preference and what ultimately works for you.

[@Polyphemus.]

Raising and lowering the stop-bar doesn't change the tension. The pitch of any given open string is a product of scale length, string gauge and tension. Assuming scale length and string gauge are unchanged, then reducing the tension will lower the pitch. It won't be an E anymore. The only way to change the tension of your high E string and still have it be a high E is to use a different string gauge, or use a guitar with a different scale length.

[@Metalcop5150]

@@Polyphemus. Yes the original comment stated that, and I agree with you, that string height makes no difference in tension. But players all have their own setups and preferences and whatever works for them? i don't question it. Heck, Warren DeMartini once said that he thinks that chrome Floyd Rose trems sound better than the black or gold ones!!? Lol Thanks for watching and commenting. Please give me a sub, if you are so inclined.

[@jibicusmaximus4827]

you can bend any gague if you practice, i used to bend on an acoustic 12 string, you had to keep the notes same distance as you bent, also use bad acoustics, anything, its all training wheels, i got taught that if you are good you can make anything sound good..(and yes, obviously there is a case for good gear too! lol)

[@adamelliott9581]

What about filing a little groove in the back of the tune o matic where the string would touch

[@Metalcop5150]

Over wrapping the tailpiece is much easier! We’re talking about guys like Joe Bonamassa and Billy Gibbons over wrapping the tail piece on legit 1959 Les Pauls!! Nobody’s going to file down the tunomatic on their priceless guitar. Lol 🤣 In my opinion, filing the tunomatic would just further weaken it, actually making the likelihood of collapse even greater. Creating more problems where none exist. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@nunyabusiness5075]

I think you face the screws whichever way you can to get better access, but it doesn't really matter. BTW would you notch the saddles so the sting doesn't go sliding around and create multiple grooves (each with their own tuning LOL).

[@Metalcop5150]

Nunya Business Yeah, that’s essentially what I was saying. Just if you wanted to return it to stock, the screws should face forward. You should also orient those saddles, as from the factory, as I suggested, to avoid any alternative tuning issues!! Haha

[@smokinjoe4709]

This might be an old video, but the first thing I noticed were the peanut butter pretzel squares in the background... :)

[@Metalcop5150]

Smokin' Joe Yeah I usually have a good supply of them on hand!! Lol Thanks for watching and commenting, please consider subscribing if you don’t already!!

[@evanabbott2737]

Those are so good....😁👍

[@flstf481]

Both of my Epis came out of the box with the bridge screws facing the rear.

[@Metalcop5150]

Yeah, for functionality, it really makes no difference. The proper Gibson factory setup and how Epiphones 'should' be setup, are with the screws facing the neck. Maybe your Epis actually received a setup by someone, and got put back incorrectly?! Lol. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@SuperCyril2]

Saddle bridge screws should face the neck of guitar. I asked a friend who repaires guitars at a local shop. He said that they are installed wrong from factories quite often.

[@anorexorc1st]

Many types of TOM ABR-1’s have adjustment at the rear/neck. Modern or Nashville style, etc have adjustment at the front/bridge.

[@Metalcop5150]

The generally accepted 'rule' with Gibson Tunomatics is that the ABR-1, the screws face the bridge, the Nashville style, the screws face the butt end of the guitar. There are no real absolutes, but with new guitars, that is how they come, and it has been this way for many years. The video is focused on the much more prevalent ABR-1 bridges that Gibson has used since the 50's. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@macauley70]

great video.. the tailpiece for you has to be absolutely symmetrical, that is to say exactly the same height in the two pivots, left and right?

[@Metalcop5150]

Not necessarily. The action is generally about 1/64 Lower on the treble side than the bass side. However, to the naked eye, this would be imperceptible. Those bass strings need just a little bit more room to vibrate, down their axis. Thanks for watching and commenting. I'm sincerely grateful that you found this video useful. Please consider a sub!!

[@Crispy2012A]

I just bought a brand new Les Paul Standard yesterday, Mojave Burst 2018...right out of the box, the bridge saddle screws are facing towards the rear, not towards the head stock, but the owners manual says it should be the other way around...lol.

[@Metalcop5150]

Most likely it did not leave the factory that way. I know you said, right out of the box, but somebody may have set the guitar up etc. Gibson's quality control may not be what it used to be either... lol

[@Rick_Cleland]

Hello from Northern Ireland. 👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻

[@adamkorzon2972]

TP-6 and the floyd rose locking nut and roller bridge and my les paul stays in tune finally.

[@Metalcop5150]

What a great idea!! Lol… Been doing that for almost 25 years.

[@finnzevo]

My low E string saddle is all the way back,the intonation is perfect,is that normal?

[@Metalcop5150]

It is what it is. Sorry for the cliche’ but if it intonates properly, that is where the saddle belongs. I would guess that your bridge was ‘misplaced’ by a couple of fractions of millimeters, when your guitar was built. Like I said in the video: NONE of it matters!! Place the bridge facing whichever way you want, same w/ the saddles. As long as the guitar intonates and your string action is to your liking? Just. Play. It!! 🤘😎🤘

[@mmullen2112]

Thanks!

[@heythere6983]

I just got a two Gibson, neither has good intonation. He les pul has a backwards bow I believe which caused the high e to not ring out right and rattle without even hitting any frets, the guitar center tech straightened out The neck but didn’t fix the intonation. What I’m confused about is that I know when fixing the truss rod it can help give a slight forward bow to help playability and action and the bridge will fix intonation BUT I never see anyone explain when one should adjust the height of the bridge for action. It makes sense to me that whatever height your bridge is, it’s going to affect how you provide relief and bow on the neck to help the action. So then how do I know where the bridge height should be?

[@Metalcop5150]

Hey There The straightness or slight up bow of your neck should not affect your action. What I mean is that you don’t adjust your action w/ the truss rod! You need a straight neck, level frets, THEN you set your action w/ the bridge height. After all that is done, you can set the intonation. Hope this helps!

[@user-kl7ug9dr2k]

My epiphone had a weird setup quite high on the base side low on the treble side... but it was realy high on the base side

[@Metalcop5150]

That’s not right. Your neck should be relatively flat, save for a tiny bit of relief. If one side of the bridge is noticeably higher than the other, you may have bigger issues. The bridge should be a ‘TAD’ bit higher on the bass side, like a couple of 64th of an inch. Not really that noticeable with the naked eye. Sight down your neck, and maybe have a friend or another set of eyes check it out. Good luck! And thanks for watching and commenting. 🤘😎🤘

[@user-kl7ug9dr2k]

@Metalcop5150 ,it was the bridge adjustment ...its a les paul,I got it OK its a great guitar ..It fell over and I thought I broke the headstock as it was all cracked with the shape u would expect if it was a snap,luckily it was only the finish ..I've thought about sanding the whole back of the kneck too take it off ...all in all it plays 👍 great

[@VenomousB6U6R6N]

Fine tune tail piece?? Can't find em, how do you make them?

[@Metalcop5150]

Jarrett Conrey You can’t make them?! Lol 😂 They’re called the TP-6 and they are manufactured by Gibson. They are available at Musicians Friend, Reverb etc. Personally I love them!! Some guys don’t like them and think they affect your tone. (They absolutely do not) Check em out!!

[@VenomousB6U6R6N]

@@Metalcop5150 found em. Right on man, love it. Thank you.

[@cacornett58]

I don't think the tail piece affects sustain at all. You can pick a note and put your finger on the string in between the bridge and tail piece and there is no difference in the note sustaining. I tested this on an oscilloscope to prove it.

[@Metalcop5150]

You should test the difference between a typical raised tailpiece and then one that’s screwed down to the face of the body. I tend to think that the more surface area, where a string is able to resonate the top of a guitar, the better!! Guitarists are a superstitious bunch. Zakk Wylde and Billy Gibbons swear that decking the tail piece increases their sustain. Who am I to argue w/ them?! In my opinion, a string through the body, like a Telecaster type bridge makes the absolute best sounding guitar ever. There’s something to having the strings touch, pass through and resonate the top of a guitar. 🤘