Giul doing the 4th ascent of Off the Wagon (No wagon) an historical problem in Val Bavona, Switzerland, found by Dave Graham and FA'd by Shawn Raboutou.
Пікірлер: 150
@EmilAbrahamsson2 жыл бұрын
Gotta say, that fall outside the pads made my heart skip a beat. Thanks for letting us see the process behind this! Amazing effort and send, inspiring
@SpartaSpartan1172 жыл бұрын
How long until we see you on this?
@BiskitBandit2 жыл бұрын
Even though I thought your comment had me prepared, I was still not prepared to actually see it O.O
@tylerheitmann17582 жыл бұрын
When you get on this boulder, I think it'd be interesting to see you try the Charles Albert barefoot toe crimp method. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYe2dGysfsdghrc
@chuffer595 Жыл бұрын
@@SpartaSpartan117 We have now seen him on this
@SpartaSpartan117 Жыл бұрын
@@chuffer595 homie has got to send I hope!
@Ididathing2 жыл бұрын
Such a great boulder! Good work!
@unclecaravan2 жыл бұрын
heh you're that guy
@philipegoulet4482 жыл бұрын
Surprised to see you here! Love your content!
@bosfbanksy76732 жыл бұрын
Knew you were a climber. Your forearms don't just get jacked forearms by themselves
@rupertcotter47012 жыл бұрын
Surely do some kind of climbing related shenanigans on IDAT
@JordyaMattson2 жыл бұрын
i knew you climbed! i could tell by haw shredded you actaily are!
@TrackpadProductions2 жыл бұрын
I _never_ get tired of Off The Wagon send footage.
@sklassen132 жыл бұрын
I do
@dannyj19832 жыл бұрын
Giuliano has an amazing, unique climbing style. I think it comes to life on boulders like this that are powerful but very precise and technical. Maybe he doesn't have the raw strength like Jimmy or Daniel, he seems to see the boulder in a creatively expressed way; a lot more like Dave Graham. Amazing to watch these top-tier technicians sus a boulder out like no one before. And I agree with another commenter. Footage of this Boulder never gets old.
@chrissmithdoe21002 жыл бұрын
i wonder whether jimmy or daniel could even climb it this way? I feel like they have so much tension in their body that they couldn't use their feet like this - such delicate footwork like on a vertical...
@dannyj19832 жыл бұрын
@@chrissmithdoe2100 They might be able to climb it this way. But they might not see it this way.
@nicolasjeannet10632 жыл бұрын
He reminds me a lot of Dave Graham in this vid. His body and the way he moves, wizard technique over crazy strenght.
@JahNug2 жыл бұрын
I dunno, he pretty much cut loose and traversed the whole line of micro crimps, he must have some unbelievable finger strength
@iamliam422 жыл бұрын
@@JahNug The traditional way to do off the wagon is with an insane campus rose move on those same crimps. His method with the heel and matching was a lot less reliant on raw power. Although I agree that his finger strength and regular strength are still totally unbelievable.
@Synthysizer2 жыл бұрын
@@iamliam42 the way he did it in this video seems to be the modern method that at least a few other climbers have used as well.
@thewateringwiz71182 жыл бұрын
Damn... that dry fire during the cross move looked terrifying ! Congrats on the send !
@TheMatthewGoodacre2 жыл бұрын
Daniel woods did this exact beta
@thewateringwiz71182 жыл бұрын
@@TheMatthewGoodacre Shawn used that beta too ! I initially thought Giuliano was gonna succeed with new beta where he initially goes for the crimp/pocket before starting the campus traverse
@callum87922 жыл бұрын
Can't wait for the Dave Graham Hypno footage! Must be a good one
@nottherealjk2 жыл бұрын
Amazing effort and incredible climb. Really goes to show what a visionary Sharma was for finding that line over 15 years ago.
@alexantone55322 жыл бұрын
I thought nalle FA’d it?
@nottherealjk2 жыл бұрын
@@alexantone5532 He most certainly did, but he wasn't the one who found it, originally attempted it, and named it. Thankfully Nalle still called it Off the Wagon even after nabbing the FA. Still one of my absolute favorite boulders ever even after seeing Dosage so many years ago.
@aspuzling2 жыл бұрын
@@nottherealjk Dave Graham found it before Chris. There's footage in the Reel Rock film "Born among Boulders" of him trying it and he even says "Chris would like this boulder".
@nottherealjk2 жыл бұрын
@@aspuzling Ah thanks man. Learn something new every day. Figures the wizard would have found it. He is a magician like that.
@SpartaSpartan1177 ай бұрын
This Boulder is a who who's. Found by Dave Graham, beta pioneered by Chris Sharma, FA'ed by Nalle; sit by Shawn
@lukasschalk2 жыл бұрын
Had to rewatch the other mellow sends because I remembered the dyno move looking SO much harder... amazing how your feet stay on and how different the climbing looks. So nice, congrats!
@yellowclimbingofficial2 жыл бұрын
"doued!" so sick. has to be one of the coolest lines in the world.
@alonsorodriguez6522 жыл бұрын
Sick send! in love with the quality of al mellow videos
@benruefmedia2 жыл бұрын
What an amazing projecting process. So many heartbreaking moments and then he made the send look effortless
@wismattman2 жыл бұрын
Congrats! 8 min video for us 6 years for you. It may be hard for some to see how amazing that is, not only the grade but just to keep at it for that long, working through everything that comes with climbing including injuries and real life. Amazing feat
@alecsyogacorner2 жыл бұрын
Cruuuuuushed it. What a privilege to get to watch your process here. Congrats on the send Giuliano!!!!!!!!!!
@HT_rider Жыл бұрын
The progression was great! Loved how the battle was documented. Great vid
@jlehm2 жыл бұрын
When you’re too weak to hold the lock off, but so damn strong you grab holds that aren’t even there. Sick send!!!
@samuelchow64742 жыл бұрын
The amount of skin care happening in 1:15 is tight.
@rock_your_boat2 жыл бұрын
Also the amount of weed smoking... 😂
@MF-CLIMB2 жыл бұрын
Another great dude to footage time ratio from Mellow. DUDE.
@vaughan65622 жыл бұрын
Been waiting for this one !!
@diegosebastian2226 Жыл бұрын
Giuliano quickly became one of my favourites to watch. Incredible, incredible technique and an almost-spiritual approach to climbing, right up my alley.
@arebalwithacause2 жыл бұрын
That's so cool to see different beta on this climb! Mad props to the more static approach!! That looked insanely tough!
@Bouldest12 жыл бұрын
Now it’s more like without the wagon 😭
@Sammuell822 жыл бұрын
love this longer form battle with a project ! more please !
@spirit12392 жыл бұрын
Congrats man, quite the journey :)
@tubbytj2 жыл бұрын
That first clip when you stick the first move 🤣😁
@danflak63632 жыл бұрын
If anyone wants to see an extended version of this footage, it’s featured on ReelRock Season 7. Very cool to see it pop up on Mellow too :)
@Theaddekalk2 жыл бұрын
strong going man, really nice vid. intense
@LongBoy.02 жыл бұрын
Wow, I’ve never seen anyone send it with that beta. Incredible!
@HatoriHanzo12 жыл бұрын
The beauty of finding the right beta (for us). I have had similar stories. So satisfying when it happens. And teaches us a lot!
@jasonsheppard12 жыл бұрын
With the wagon gone does that mean we're now closer to seeing the actual sit start to this boulder?!
@doublevgreen2 жыл бұрын
They said its choss lower down
@shawntrevordaniel2 жыл бұрын
@@doublevgreen in that case they gotta break out the hammer & crowbar
@doublevgreen2 жыл бұрын
@@shawntrevordaniel just like in the good old times
@davidtorres83962 жыл бұрын
@@doublevgreen it probably all feels like choss to us mere mortals. I would hate to see what they think choss is. My fingers are bleeding just thinking about it
@doublevgreen2 жыл бұрын
@@davidtorres8396 i think you havent gotten the definition of choss quite right
@VEE3RDEYE8 ай бұрын
A valiant effort
@mathius83602 жыл бұрын
I'd recommend that everybody go watch the episode of Reel Rock that covers Giuliano's journey to climb this. It's incredible to see the effort he puts in.
@francislousada3.19 күн бұрын
Bravo! Técnica e muita força!!
@AuxArcClimbing2 жыл бұрын
The post groundfall fistbump wrap was the best part lol
@garrettswank60302 жыл бұрын
Love this thing, and I love seeing all the dif betas used
@matteos.34382 жыл бұрын
keenan’s encouragements are A1 content
@sparrowman60772 жыл бұрын
With the wagon moved, is it now the true off the wagon (not sds)?? It’s still one of the most aesthetically pleasing boulders out there. Congrats man, good on ya. Sick send!
@Keukeu459 ай бұрын
Il déchire Giuliano!
@SeadonClothing2 жыл бұрын
Interesting he was able to switch back to his original beta due to the obvious increase in strength. Even with the last few moves he ended up not flagging his right (compared with his first try) and just did a ‘non-Giu’ slightly desperate move to get the send. Such an unique climber with a distinct style that tends to make every send so easy with mastery flow.
@bongosock2 жыл бұрын
Man, must have been hard going for the jump again after that fall :0
@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog2 жыл бұрын
Sweet send dude ✌🏽😃🤙🏽
@subliska72102 жыл бұрын
Wow what a rollercoaster! Going from "fuck the beta" to the gnarly dry fire, back to the original beta, and then "fuck the beta" again on the crimps... Another Mellow classic! With the wagon to the side, can we get an "Off the wagon sit - sit"?
@ethanleinius58822 жыл бұрын
That dry fire looked fatal
@dieselrugg2 жыл бұрын
Sick!
@MANIRES2 жыл бұрын
so the sit start now has a stand start :D ? does the new stand start maybe have a new sit start ?
@rumperdumper2 жыл бұрын
I don't remember the name of the mustache guy, but he is one of my favorite side characters in the Mello universe.
@joolsgrommers14662 жыл бұрын
Keenan Takahashi.
@anthonymoenich95332 жыл бұрын
What the hell did he do in the off-season!? Congrats.
@richardfoust28152 жыл бұрын
This was a fantastic film--LOVED watching the process--but I just can't help thinking is spotting just not a thing anymore? I'm old, and therefore started bouldering before there were pads (and I am REALLY glad those were invented!), but a spot still seems like a good idea....
@kraysean2 жыл бұрын
this is a very hard to spot boulder. it just doesn't really work or make much difference
@XxOzzyBoyx2 жыл бұрын
That many people there and no spotter is fucking wild. Dont get that shit.
@jeffersin70922 жыл бұрын
Makes a better video without spoters
@Mike-oz4cv2 жыл бұрын
I’ve always doubted the benefits of having spotters anyway. Though in the case at least the ground would be flat and firm enough for some proper spotting.
@dariorotaclimb2 жыл бұрын
GRANDISSIMO!!! E che botta la caduta....
@johnblack78622 ай бұрын
I wonder if it's possible to move those logs at the base and do a sit start?! And would it up the grade? If the low moves into the V16 are hard, it would have to be at least V17
@nopro_films2 жыл бұрын
WHERE'S THE WAGON 8c+
@KOLBENPFIEL2 жыл бұрын
Oh shit!! No more wagon? :o
@ThirdEyePried2 жыл бұрын
They just rolled it to the side. From what I gather, it gets moved back and forth now.
@rippendale Жыл бұрын
Just out of curiosity is there a possible sit start from the ground?
@hashiramasenju50012 жыл бұрын
The wagon is gone... But not forgotten ! Also does this open up the possibility for a mega low sit start?
@jamesfleming54222 жыл бұрын
Evidently it’s pretty chossy down below. But it would be pretty sick if someone found a sit start.
@aries_91302 жыл бұрын
Sick
@TheGreatNordini2 жыл бұрын
Off (verb) the wagon.
@justingabriele38812 жыл бұрын
Lol is it still “off the wagon sit” if you move the wagon and start standing… makes me think a sit start with the wagon moved might be on??
@julianmcgee57412 жыл бұрын
Hi. Why don't people move the wagon out of the way and do a proper sit start?
@EuVray2 жыл бұрын
He didn't go to the very top of that boulder ? Does it still count ? :D
@notericmoore94792 жыл бұрын
Is there a V18 sit start under the wagon?
@AdamLewis12 жыл бұрын
This video has confirmed my love for Keenan Takahashi
@benruefmedia2 жыл бұрын
Wait but is this not off the wagon sit? And like he didn't start on or off the wagon
@jidoc4877 Жыл бұрын
3:32 classic moment of missing the pad, and 20 ft to the right is an unused pad.
@kraysean2 жыл бұрын
Not a single "dude" after the top out.. i must not have been there! Grande Giul
@hansachs2 жыл бұрын
3:15 all time dryfire
@skylarmoehs50682 жыл бұрын
Now who's going to do Off the Wagon (no wagon) sit?
@codyheiner36362 жыл бұрын
What happened to the wagon? Oh I see it got moved to the side
@rschreck8762 жыл бұрын
3:16 his spotters were on it. 🤦🏼♂️
@brotherbonez2 жыл бұрын
Where did the wagon go??
@Ivheh2 жыл бұрын
where did the wagon go
@MelanieRobertson032 жыл бұрын
Where’s the wagon?
@weirderthan2 жыл бұрын
Why isn't it called No Wagon?
@aaronschneider94632 жыл бұрын
Paper beats rock 💪🏻
@Kletterszenecom2 жыл бұрын
is spotting out or just uncool? Sorry, but i don't understand why none of the crew does it.
@andrewbmaher94432 жыл бұрын
CRAZY DIGGER
@yerbles7772 жыл бұрын
Made that look like V2 doued!!
@dynosaurs2 жыл бұрын
Where's the wagon tho?
@benruefmedia2 жыл бұрын
Definitely impressive that he did the whole thing pretty much static. It made it a cooler climb. Bet if you had the power though the campusing and cutting beta probably would go sooner cuz it's simpler
@b3tt3rth4ny0u2 жыл бұрын
Casual
@jacksoukup54422 жыл бұрын
“It’s so easy” llllooolllll
@spencershields91862 жыл бұрын
bean burrito dood
@joolsgrommers14662 жыл бұрын
Psyched!
@alecthompson95852 жыл бұрын
I'll never understand it but impressive nonetheless!
@trevormooriss Жыл бұрын
Get The Jug
@rippendale2 жыл бұрын
Waitwaitwaitwait y'all just gonna act like starting without the wagon is the same as sitting on it? I could swear Shawn FA'd OTWsit not low. Or did I miss something?
@alexantone55322 жыл бұрын
Bro it’s the same exact moves, you’re just not sitting. Also it was always called low because there was rock below it for an actual sitstart
@alexantone55322 жыл бұрын
@@hyau23 one of the vids says low
@whelmking64972 жыл бұрын
Fall at 3:30 is the moment you realize why having your friends spot is more important than making a video.
@callum87922 жыл бұрын
More like 'Off the floor'
@mikkelsmauritzen45902 жыл бұрын
Cant call it off the wagon and not Even start on the wagon. Awsome boulder and send but cmon the wagon is iconic
@stevesun160822 күн бұрын
redbull on the wagon
@zealous2612 жыл бұрын
I feel like shorter climbers would struggle with this climb
@aa-uz1tg2 жыл бұрын
You can’t tell me his climbing isn’t an art form
@zwhite_1222 жыл бұрын
What boulder is this?????
@alonsorodriguez6522 жыл бұрын
Off the wagon -sit start. the waggon is moved but the moves are the same ones
@zwhite_1222 жыл бұрын
@@alonsorodriguez652 oh cool I thought this might be bishop mega classic 4 star v10 testpiece stained glass 😅
@CJski2 жыл бұрын
Yet another beta option. I wonder what that high crimp would go at
@BADCAP2 жыл бұрын
silence pls :)
@vittoriobenedet22212 жыл бұрын
doesn not seem a v16
@Josh-wb7ii2 жыл бұрын
I NEED TO KNOW THE STORY OF THIS WAGON, WHO OWNS IT, WHY IS IT THERE, DOES NO ONE CARE ABOUT CLIMBERS JUMPING ALL OVER IT.