GL Racing GLD Build Part 1

[@BlitzWorks]

Finally get to see someone elses raw build vids, lets see how it goes

[@RCSUPREMACY]

Good build content man! Love the interactive graphics on the videos you produce

[@Dinli901]

Hello. I have another question. i put the differential together and screwed it to the chassis. at one point it doesn't turn properly. you have to use some force to turn it. as if the gear or the small pinion is a bit out of round. I loosened all the screws to see if something is tense. I looked very carefully to see if there was a ridge somewhere. everything is clean and yet it does not turn cleanly. do you have any advice for me Greetings Chris.

[@BeaversHobby]

This is a known defect. The 15T reduction gear is off-centre. The only thing you can do is to replace it with aluminium upgrade part no. OP-016. Contact the shop you bought it. They should send you the aluminium replacement or worst case scenario you'll have to buy it. Here's the part in question. hrcarena.store/item/GLD-Alum.-hard-15T-Gears-Set-OP-016/4809298534334464

[@Dinli901]

@@BeaversHobby you are the best. what luck that i can annoy you with all my questions. thank you so much for your help.

[@BeaversHobby]

@@Dinli901 My pleasure. Hopefully you'll get it sorted out quickly.

[@toms782]

Hi - this is probably a dumb question, but what’s the difference between the diff grease you use and the kyosho grease also on screen? Are they just different thicknesses/weights or different types of product? I’ve seen a weight of 5000 recommended online but the gld manual doesn’t specify (they recommend team kyosho grease though). I’m probably overthinking this I’d just like to understand what to get and why!

[@BeaversHobby]

It's about different viscosity. The ball diff grease has certain thickness and viscosity that will keep the balls from slipping and keep the diff running smoothly. The gear diff grease has different viscosity that will slow down or dampening the movement between the gears as well as between shaft and slot so we also use it in the shocks.

[@toms782]

@@BeaversHobby Ah thanks. I was getting confused between ball diff grease and gear diff grease- sounded the same to me initially! Appreciate the help.

[@BeaversHobby]

@@toms782 My pleasure.

[@KuhlsResearch]

It all went south at 28:00m ~ Hope you get the warranty stuff quick. What size GLA rod ends do you use (known upgrade for the brittle GLD ends)?

[@BeaversHobby]

In the GLA-S021 there are 4x 3.0mm and 6x 2.5mm so I needed 2 sets to completely replace the whole car as I need 8x 3.0mm rod ends. I'll replace the broken ones first and keep the rest. I'm still waiting for the parts to arrive so that should fix the car up nicely.

[@nikolson7]

Hi guys im new here newbie on RWD Drifters though. I'm gonna buy a rwd drifters in a short while but not sure for the model.I need help for the choice!I want the set will costs around 300 euro. I'll really appreciate if you share your thoughts and experiences.

[@BeaversHobby]

It depends if you already have a radio and a charger. Those 2 will eat up your budget really quickly and a decent set could cost at least 100 Euros. So your choice will become a bit more limited with that. HGD1 is a good starter car that will come with battery, charger, wheels, tyres so you can just add your own radio and body to complete the car. Right now it's in EU stock for 219 EUR plus shipping. bit.ly/3bGj3JQ If you already have a radio, charger and a battery you'll get a border choice from (again) HGD1, DRZ V2 and XRX DPA. As for GLD you'll spend 200 Euros on the car and about 100 Euros for the upgrade to make it works. If you also plan to get all the upgrades already then GLD is a very good choice. Otherwise DRZ v2 is better value for money. www.rcm8.net/collections/cars/products/atomic-drzv2-rwd-drift-kit-w-gyro-servo-esc-drzv2-gse?sca_ref=332333.t7zUIG4T6e XRX DPA is still the best right now and it's beginner friendly due to being partially built. It's a bit more expensive than other cars but it's worth the price. garagerc.net/product/xrx-dpa-rwd-drift-car/

[@HenryTriplette]

Ok, time for me to find out where I've f**kt'up during my build. Just kidding, car drives great. X3

[@bkirkbir]

Due to your advise i bought a HGD1, but people say it's not a well balanced rc. I just regret not to buy GLD :/. What do you think about that?

[@BeaversHobby]

Have you seen my initial thoughts about this car? GLD is of course a well-designed chassis but right now unless you are either very lucky or prepare drop at least another $100 for upgrade and spare parts on it, it's most likely not going to work. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYnLgWmPbKh7iNU If you want it, wait for a few months to a year until they fix all the manufacturing problems and it'll be worth the price. Right now I regret buying the first batch of GLD. The car is now completely broken and it sits in a box waiting for the spares to arrive. I really should have waited. Meanwhile I pretty much daily my HGD1. I will still say the HGD1 got more value for money and much more beginner friendly. The "not well balanced" problem I think it's from the weight being piled on one side depending on where you insert the battery. If you have battery in the right (86-98mm wheelbase), put a small weight on the left to balance it. If you put the battery in the middle (102+mm wheelbase), put some weight on the right next to the motor to balance it. The rear can be snappy but you can tune it easily or change the rear solid axle to gear diff or ball diff from Mini-Z AWD and make it easier to drift.

[@bkirkbir]

@@BeaversHobby Wow you made my day, thank you to detailed answer. You are great!

[@bkirkbir]

@@BeaversHobby I also joined your facebook page

[@BeaversHobby]

@@bkirkbir My pleasure.