Glass Print Bed Fix - 2 tips - get perfect adhesion every time!

This is how to fix glass print bed adhesion. 3d printer print bed adhesion is a common problem. You are probably making this mistake. Why use a glass print bed? I have used glass print beds alot but I never knew this. The trick to glass print bed adhesion is clean glass and heat. It's all about the correct heating and cooling of your print bed. 3D printbeds can be tricky, but once you understand and try these 2 tips, you'll never have problems again. When you can't get a 3d print to stick it will drive you crazy. Getting 3d printed parts to stick perfectly to the 3d printer print bed is frustrating. Why won't my parts stick to glass? #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprint
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[@tonybloodloss]

You look and sound like Steve-O if he was sober his entire life. Thank you for a wonderful video, loved it, and it was useful!

[@J155P]

I was kinda thinking that too.

[@digidex4557]

101% Accurate 😂 Edit: Thanks for the video 👍

[@kmproductions6211]

I second this😂

[@rihis007]

Ha I was thinking the same

[@aliniuga2081]

And he loves glass 😂

[@bobecek_]

Oh man you are a life saver!!!! I just got a new 3D printer and came with a glass bed and I almost bought a new bed but you saved be 20 bucks thanks sooo much!!!!!

[@nalatie7104]

As you said to NOT use paper towels in was wiping my bed with paper towels 😂 lesson learned and it makes total sense!! thank you!!

[@acidity5955]

Thanks for the tip, I hope my 3d printer will actually work now.

[@treasuretraveler3613]

I am relatively new to 3D printing & have ran through 3 2.2 lb spools of filament in my first month. I have found that if I put down the first layer properly it’s a real chore getting the parts I print to break loose from the bed. It’s been my limited experience that on my 3V2’s glass bed that if I get that first layer dead on, that my biggest problem is getting the part to let go of the bed. Note: I print custom parts for eBikes I build and I now have more fun printing the parts than building the eBikes!

[@FirepoiMo]

Do you let the bed cool down before taking the parts off? I'd say thats the most important thing with glass beds. Usually you can hear cracking noises as the bed cools down and the part comes off by its own.

[@marko_z_bogdanca]

I bought an IKEA mirrors. 5 in Pack. Then I cut one to size and I clean it each day with regular dish soap. Then I wipe it on the bottom with anything and I place it in my printer to dry off the top. I just preheat the bed and voila. It is super clean!

[@Commandodesigns]

That's awesome.

[@mikesegarra869]

Do you use any type of glue for adhesion?

[@dontXtheGunLine]

Genius 🙌

[@arniekando6846]

@@mikesegarra869 Nooooo, clean clear flat glass washed with dishwashing liquid will outgrip any adhesion you put on....

[@deltapi8859]

What I do once in a while is use a drop of concentrated dish cleaning soap in a spray can. Spray it, run the plate under water, clean with paper towel (with your tip I'm going to look for glass cleaning towels) and then use Isopropanol Alcohol and the glass bed. Works like a charm. I used to use glass cleaner, it worked ok, but you have to (at least in my experience) rinse it with water again. And IPA has multipurpose. What helped me though is use vinyl gloves. That was the single most effective change, because I have some greasy hands apparently :D

[@aafmirq777]

If you don’t want fibers use coffee filters they’re lint free

[@MikevomMars]

This printed texture on the glass rips off in to time - since then I am printing on the backside of my plate (PURE GLASS, no texture). This give ultra-ultra smooth and shiny surfaces - looks absolutely great! Cleaning is done with Acetone (it easily removes remains of PLA or ABS) and for adhesion I am using an adhesion Spray which is quite cheap and only needs one or two tiny pumps. This spray lasts an eternity.

[@8bitwidgets]

absolutely! I have GO-3D PRINT Borosilicate Glass Plates on all 4 of my Ender 3 Pros and S1 Plus. Do not get the bumpy kind! I an use a paint scrapper razor on my 24/7 and have no issues. It helps lift things off super easy once you let the glass cool a bit. If you need a little bump in adhesion just a light shot of hair spray will help even more and when it's all done it cleans up like nothing was ever there.

[@jeremy6384]

thanks for the tips

[@_Epictetus_]

Thanks Steve O

[@P_double_H]

You could also use a microfiber cloth and it will do the job every time with 0 residue.

[@denis2381]

For me it doesn't work on a10t geetech. Has such a new glas but it takes time to Stick and it ruins prints

[@helixxharpell]

Great video! Thank you! Question. I'm printing polycarbonate glass filled on a gold PEI sheet. What's the safest way to get that residue off of PEI?

[@gardian1701]

The problem with those new glass beds is they're carbonarum (or however its spelled) they're then coated with a nano coating which gets cleaned off after q few months of printing. I just stuck a pei magnetic flex sheet over the top, sorted. 👌

[@MickMGA]

its really helps many peaple in denmark where i live they juse maskine tape (paint tape) so have to try find glas towels :-)

[@pheelix-]

Don't use window cleaner, the chemicals in it will eat at the beds coating. Just use some dawn soap and hot water. Once that coating is gone and prints don't stick, it is time to bust out the sanding block and ruff up the surface a little.

[@TheholeyRanger]

Using a glue stick on the bed works pretty good too

[@mohamedimad6485]

i've been using window cleaner until i saw this comment because it said "cleans glass"

[@pheelix-]

@@mohamedimad6485 bed is glass, but has a ceramic type coating on it. :)

[@NothingSekret]

​@@pheelix-ceramic will not be affected by Windex 🤣

[@pheelix-]

@@NothingSekret still not recommended, and it could leave residue over time. Dawn dish soap or IPA is the best method.

[@AndrewAHayes]

The Creality glass beds come with a protective sheet that leaves behind a yellow gunky adhesive, this cannot be fully removed with soap and water despite some YT channels recommending it, it needs to be cleaned with IPA. if you use soap and water it leaves behind most of the adhesive, after time the adhesive gets baked with the heat of the bed and plastic will no longer stick and the gunk will not remove even with IPA. I believe Creality now uses a different adhesive for the protective sheet as when I bought my third Ender 5 Plus the bed did not have the yellow gunk on it when I cleaned it although I still cleaned it with IPA for the first time.

[@magtonian5250]

This is the most help I’ve ever got

[@hojen321]

thx so much. never used glass before but want to try now. what's your favorite brand of glass cleaner and glass cleaning paper towel? also, any recommended clips fur the glass bed?

[@wykonczeni]

There is something like adhesive spray. 1 coat works few times, if you wait to cool down the bed between prints. Also, bed can be cleaned with only water. And toilet paper also. So simple.

[@criticalcan]

I only use hot water on a rag and wipe it down while the bed is at 70c, works fine and have been doing this for about a year now

[@joedanettetuscher7839]

I watched your video and instead of using glass cleaner, i have a cleaning cloth thot only needs water and it worked like a champ. Will this clean glass process work for petg plastic also?

[@justnoob82]

i just sprayed alcohol and wipe with paper towel. Now, works perfect

[@GeekDetour]

…and you keep touching it! 🤣 What you are SAYING is totally right.

[@HTKCsoitpasdeg]

I use a glass print bed with no heating. Just you school glue (those sticks thingy). Does happen that my print is so well stuck on the plate, i need a blade to peel it off !

[@runesrensen8551]

paper towel scratches because its made of wood fibers. that's why you dont clean your glasses with paper. only fabric. great video.

[@joeywilbur9182]

I saw a video to use hair spray before each print to keep the sticking to a minimal. Idk haven't tried it yet 🤷🏼‍♂️🤦🏼‍♂️ Any other ideas?

[@themaskedcrusader]

My glass plate has been working fine for the past 8 months. However, for some reason today it stopped sticking. I've cleaned it with isopropyl, windex, everything and nothing sticks. I'm about at my wits end. I'll try this glass cleaner + lint-free rag and see if I get better results.

[@dgurevich1]

I would suggest you try melamine sponges with name brand dish soap. Those sponges have a very small abrasive property like 5000 grit sandpaper but too soft for glass. They're very effective at removing things like oxidation film on stainless steel and they worked on my metal bed material

[@ThegovernorNSoCal]

Thanks for the video... I really learned a lot. Hey, The link in your video is for the Voxelab 3D Printer Aquila S3. Do you really highly recommend this printer? Do you think it would be great for cosplay costume building?

[@maxpower9286]

I use a new sock and windex, the first time I used a comgrow glass bed, nothing stuck, I really had to scrub the top of it off with windex and my trusty not so dusty sock.

[@PatrickLesiecki]

How is your "... army ..." of the Voxelab Aquila C2 3D Printers working out? I haven't seen any videos from you on them.

[@thesavo]

So. Two things. I started using overture pla professional and it will also not stick like hatchbox pla has. I clean with invisible glass brand cleaner and a microfiber cloth. How do you clean a semi permanent bed with dish soap that isn't intended to be removed after every print.?

[@dbtest117]

I use isopropanol, and that doesn't seem to destroy the paper-towel as much as water. I came here to see more about carbon silicon beds. I have it on my first printer and love it. I now have another printer where I want to print PC and Nylon. So I wonder are these suitable for that?

[@the_principality_of_zeon]

Would a microfiber cloth work to clean these?

[@johnstratairious7936]

I had my glass cut to fit my bed. I wash it with soap and water, then rinse it very well. then I dry it with a TOWEL....then after I wash it...I use rubbing alcohol on it and use a towel to dry it again. don't touch the inside of the glass...only touch the EDGES to put it back on your build plate or the oils from your skin will adhere to the glass and cause a problem during your print process. then. use metal tape on the four corners of the glass to hold it down. when you want to remove your build.....run it under hot water to soften the glue stick you put on it. I only use between 5 and 6 coats of glue and when I put the glue on the glass ....I run the glue in one direction then another direction then from corner to corner...this way I get a cross-hatch pattern to help the part stick better. the part never comes off during printing.

[@BlackopsSOG1]

😂😂

[@emmagilmore615]

I messed up and used acetone to clean my print bed and the 'coating' pretty much came off. Help!

[@frikkiesmit327]

I got advice few minutes ago to get rid of the black crap printplate and to use glass instead. Abs keeps lifting up when print is almost done. Fan was off the whole time etc. Temp on heat bed 100 degree celcius. Abs . So will try glas instead. I suspect the printplate flexes under high heat which causes prints to warp.

[@Beecher_Dikov]

Micro fiber cloths?

[@MAX-HARD-ROCK]

Hi sir ! Thanks for this. I have an Ender3 S1. I try the little clips (we can see on your ender 3) and it wont fit. I need to remove margnet?

[@lucadejong7784]

Yes then it will fit

[@flyback_driver]

1:53 ammonia is the chemical you're thinking of and you can actually just buy ammonia. You should be wearing gloves to prevent oil but if you buy pure ammonia wear some waterproof gloves and a respirator. Just dilute the ammonia in an old windex bottle but protect yourself. Some chemicals in its pure form we don't consider dangerous like hydrogen peroxide but we often use dilute forms (3%) wheb slightly concentrated forms will actually burn your flesh (30%). Ammonia is more if an inhalant irritant but some people could be sensitive on their skin and I'm sure it feels wonderful in cuts m just protect yourself. 3:22 or use newspaper. That's where the idea for those towels came but I was taught about newspapers from some old ww2 vet. Sometimes the old stuff works or a minimum have a backup idea

[@dewaynepowell7318]

What bed clips are you using ?

[@staceycameron7455]

Honestly the best thing period is cleaning your bed with a non moisturizing dish soap such as Original Dawn Dish Soap (Blue Color) or Palmolive Dish Detergent. Dry with microfiber clothes that have no wax in this. This can be achieved by being running through your washing machine on a heavy cycle with oxy clean only. Furthermore... Dried with no dryer sheets. This creates a cloth free from wax that is in detergents, and dryer sheets. This also creates static on the cloth to pick up dust and debris.

[@smallnuts2]

What about acetone?

[@dekurvajo]

Cooking also works. And off course eyeglass cleaner tissue. Also the stuff you get on plane to clean your hand. Deer leather.

[@Somebody2687]

Try a microfiber cloth those blue towels still leave fibers it's just far less. Microfiber cloth won't leave anything behind.

[@GPTBot1123]

Hmmm, I have a new Ender 3 with a glass bed. Still gotta scrape prints off.

[@8bitwidgets]

GO-3D PRINT Borosilicate Glass Plates are the way to go.. they are a little more expensive but absolutely worth it. 100% smooth.. no coating.. you can use a razor on them to help scrap things off without a worry in the world. I have these on all five of my printers and I can't imagine having to deal with bumps.. or worry of scraping off some coating..

[@arniekando6846]

PEOPLE....get normal glass for PLA. Wash it with sunlight liquid or any dish washing liquid, because normal piece of glass has no roughness you CAN use normal paper towels. There is no better grip than pla on normal glass that's been prepped with dish washing liquid and properly washed off. PETG will rip chunks of glass out of the surface. PLA works perfectly.

[@spudnickuk]

it made a lot of sense but still didn't work for my Wood Pla :) I just cant get it to stick either with glue or hair spray and higher temperatures and down to 0.1 mm from bed to squash But just PLA+ sticks great

[@PhantomWolf-pd2qq]

Now I've read it all First metal pla now wood?!?

[@BlackopsSOG1]

@@PhantomWolf-pd2qq they usually use wood pla for the “groot right if passage” where you print a groot…

[@Busker_3000]

Buuut are glass beds any better? you just kinda say you figured it out. I'm trying to learn ASA and it will not behave. IS glass any better?

[@Chanselleur]

Mine have extreme adhesion too much now

[@robandkriss6946]

In my next video, we'll tackle print head clogging. :)

[@garlicbread3837]

i got an aquila x2 and i cant print anything, the plastic curls and nothing is sticking to the bed

[@TheWingnut58]

When all else fails, cover the build plate with blue painters tape....

[@paulresh9698]

Did you ever get it sorted? I clean the bed with isopropyl. When the bed is new it has a protective coating on it and filament won't stick. Clean the bed and you will see a yellowish residue on the cleaning cloth, keep repeat cleaning until the yellow no longer comes off on the cloth. My parts stick so well they are hard to get off, put the plate in freezer for about ten minutes and the parts will just slide off the plate.

[@princeknight4773]

kimtech wipes mate.

[@maskdpanda9858]

made a video of common sense that hit him like he discovered gravity.

[@harris7776]

did you know that you could just use a sock like a regular foot sock

[@YankeeinSC1]

Yeah if you have "regular" feet...

[@Mucky_bg]

don't use glass cleaner. use vinegar essence. glass cleaner merges with the coating and in the long run destroys the bed (that's also - not the only reason - why toilet paper doesn't work).

[@dondawson7409]

When you think about it, it’s just common sense

[@Autokinotita]

So the trick was to clean the bed? That was the hole mystery? Maaaan people this days dont work on their content and all they want is to promote affiliate links. I know its rubish to hate on comments but i just had enough of spending 5+ min on a video that should have been a minute without an ANGLE

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

Don't risk using paper towels, use microfibre cloths.

[@PeteP86]

Yes, microfibre and something strong to get grease off.

[@Commandodesigns]

LOL... Thanks. I couldn't remember what they were called. Yes, microfiber! You're awesome.

[@swaldoski]

Flip the glass over and use hair spray. Works like a charm.

[@MattFromAmerica]

Get a magic eraser. It works perfectly.

[@milanboroja7094]

Thank you good man... i almost throw my printer

[@TheWingnut58]

Isopropyl alcohol and a piece of yesterday's newspaper....been working great for years on "plain" glass, never tried it with any of the textured stuff.

[@ZealousDragon]

WoW! So there is footage of Steve-O before all the Hell he put himself through....

[@bhash96530]

I pop mine in the dishwasher every few prints

[@Commandodesigns]

Good idea.

[@xsagemasterx]

neither does newspaper

[@beet111]

Newspaper is great for cleaning glass

[@ravebrave8866]

do some dance steps.. make your video different....

[@seamusmcshean260]

Rubbish, you have to use glue or hairspray!

[@salamdrik]

Chamois Leather for Glass is good but need to keep it in packaging if gets dry its no good, but does good job to

[@scottbates100]

Tldr, Use glass cleaner and glass cleaning towel don't use paper towel. PS, he likes 3d printers and glass beds is what he says for the other 6 mins

[@the_principality_of_zeon]

Would a microfiber cloth work to clean these?