How To Get Your 3D Prints To Stick - 7 Top Tips!

Getting the first layer of your 3d prints to stick to the build surface is like building solid foundations for a house.
If you get this first stage wrong, then it doesn't matter what you do afterwards, you'll be destined for failure.
In this video I'm going to show you 7 key factors that will affect first layer adhesion and how to maximise each one to become a first layer master.
*10% Discount on your first F3DM order of UZY Filament: f3dm.com/disco...
*Or discount code: RickyImpey*
Affiliate links (If you purchase something after clicking any of the below links I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. This is a great way to support the channel)
Plastic scrapers
UK - amzn.to/3UonWAa
US - amzn.to/3u88e1l
Elmers Glue Sticks
UK - amzn.to/3SpZewi
US - amzn.to/3SkzzVZ
3DLAC Spray
UK - amzn.to/49ePU5t
US - amzn.to/49ePU5t
Other videos to help:
Ender 3 S1 Pro 'Automatic' Bed Leveling In 3 Simple Steps • Ender 3 S1 Pro 'Automa...
3d Printer Automatic Bed Leveling - 6 steps to perfection! • 3d Printer Automatic B...
STOP Bed Leveling Between Every Print! - 3 Surprisingly Simple Fixes For Your 3d Printer • STOP Bed Leveling Betw...
3d Printer Bed levelling Method for beginners and pros (Quick and easy) • 3d Printer Bed levelli...
..............................................................................................................................................................
BUY ME A COFFEE
If you're enjoying my content, why not consider supporting the channel by buying me a coffee?
Even very small amounts are greatly appreciated and re-invested into bringing you better content.
www.buymeacoff...
You can also use the KZbin 'Thanks' button above if you prefer.
...............................................................................................................................................................
Other videos used:
• Deezmaker Bukito 3d Pr...
• Footings | Why are the...
• How to STOP Elephant's...

[@andersrennermalm]

“The point is to actually print stuff, not to print stuff in the most Facebook approved way”!!! Phrase of the year! I will steal that phrase and use it. Thank you!

[@pinabad]

Step 8 do not be afraid of using brims and a deburring tool to finish your prints

[@raiden72]

When printing a round object, putting the brim lines inside the diameter (and not only the outside) too can help complete the suction cup. Else, there is a hole in the suction

[@sassas23]

Big fan of glue stick (elmers purple for me) and yes, it's ridiculous how so many seem to hate it on good old FB ! It's often the same on guitar groups if you say you use a capo ! Yet as with adhesive, the pros use them as well :-)

[@802Garage]

0:48 Funny coincidence. My first ever failed print was a Cali Cat that failed at almost the same point and looked nearly identical, except white. I still have it!

[@pierrenieuwoudt1167]

Thanks for the direct, practical and informative video

[@TylerTroglen]

Recently switched from glue stick to Vision Miners Nano Polymer Adhesive. This stuff is legit. compared to glue stick its night and day difference in how many prints i can use it on before reapplication

[@PowerChaos]

i love your tip number 7 but we "pro's" call it Bed Release Agents, not Adhesives Main difference is, for tpu it get stuck to the glue instead your bed so it can be removed with out damaging the layer below it ( glue is first layer ) Some Pei sheets need it for PETG or you tear the pei powder/film off the bed ( Quality control is a other story ) Or like on a glass bed , love to print petg on that one. But glue stick is a must or you take some glass out. There are indeed some cases that a "glue stick" is needed, but then we are talking about vision miner and industrial prints, They warp sooo badly that you need the strong stuff to keep it down ( peek ? ) . For commercial prints glue stick get only used as release agent unless you want it to stick, but then the glue stick is just a masking problem instead of a solution. i do not say it is wrong, i do not say it is right, just informational and i love the video, nice explained :D

[@sahhull]

My Ender3 bed is not flat.. its lower in the middle. I used alu tape and stuck a piece or 3 on the magnetic surface to shim it.

[@cheeseboi-ub5cn]

I have tried adjusting my z offset but it only goes down or up in 0.5 each time

[@nickgandy3]

When printing hatchbox abs on my e5s1 i use 240 nozzle 100 bed. A glass bed with Tesco value hair spray (any cheap hair spray) for adhesive and a 5mm brim on my parts

[@nzavon]

Nice, I always (well mostly) use a glue stick. Life is too short for failed prints 🤪

[@poppin_freshgaming4334]

I have a Bambu and I see plenty of people complaining they cant get good bed adhesion. My advice (like yours) is to slow the first layer down. I run mine at 30mm/s on my Bambu and my Enders a painful 20mm/s, but I have zero adhesion problems. I run mostly PLA and I tell the slicer to run 2-3 slow layers and also recommend setting the option for no cooling for a few layers (2-4). With PEI I've seen where even a little cooling from the part or auxiliary fan too close to the plate can cause it to release in spots. No cooling will keep them off for a little bit and give the filament a chance to bond well.

[@craftycarvings5430]

Thank you I'll try slowing my bambu a1 down as I keep getting bits not sticking on the first print or when the print has started it pulls a bits and loosens the print and spoils the print. I'll try your solution n see how that gets on.

[@michaelschmidt4767]

I have the artillery x2 and setting the Z-offset is a complete pain in the ass

[@donoteatmikezila]

Very good summary and information. This is becoming very crucial to learn about and master as faster and faster printers make bed adhesion more vital.

[@sandramonk1]

Hi Ricky. Im a newbie and I love your videos - you make sense. I have an ender 3 v2 neo and I trammed the bed folliwing your video. I got a perfect print. I then tried printing the same model again and it doesn't stick at all. I tried cleaning the bed with IPA and a microfibre cloth between prints. I tried waiting an hour to let everything cool - no help. Do I need to run "levelling" between each print to redefine the mesh. Maybe its time for glue stick. Thank you for your great videos and tips.

[@mortegutt]

Soap and warm water is way better for cleaning than IPA, you could try that first. Also if you have thumbscrews for the bed, make sure they havent loosened, thus untrammed your bed.

[@BluganoStudio]

Very useful info, much appreciated!

[@matthewlininger3881]

Elmer can keep his glue sticks lol. I spent 25 minutes trying to remove a flexi Llama corn from my glass bed. Sticks TOO good

[@peterhendriks1972]

awesome tips..... thanks alot. 👍👍👍

[@Sr38YT]

Thank you very much for theses tips ;) Very usefull ! And not for Facebook approval xD

[@HumamZaki]

Hello ricky I find you really useful and I always check if there is a video from your channel about the problems I have . Can you make a video on some tips to have nice looking parts

[@ReeseThaTazzJohnson]

Please help me how did I go from the one on the left to the one on the right. I am sure it is something simple I just can’t figure it out

[@luistiago5121]

Good Tips.

[@andersrennermalm]

Tack!

[@dayday1220]

Just wonderin What tool did you use to help level the bedding? Cant find it anywhere lol

[@joemccall8991]

It might have been Bed Leveler Visualizer, couldn't quite tell from the image but similar to what I see on my OctoPrint install

[@RickyImpey]

Do you mean the feeler gauge? Have a look at one of the bed leveling videos in the description for a better description of how to do that stage.

[@julescircuits845]

As Ricky commented the tool is a standard 0.1mm feeler guage. That mesh is extremely likely a sonic pad/Klipper mesh viewed on mainsail or fluid :) @@joemccall8991

[@linda-annanetts816]

Hello, I have an ender 3v3se and I struggle greatly with first layers. Can you offer any advice on the so called auto bed levelling?

[@mortegutt]

Try to skip the auto bed leveling for Z height, and adjust this manually and save it to the printer. I have read that the bed probe is too inconcistent

[@djispro4272]

Sure, but I would put after the adhesive part that maybe your bed is a consumable and that it does get damaged over time, requiring a purchase of a new bed.

[@julescircuits845]

Most beds these days will outlast the machine if looked after and careful. They are not officially classified as consumables with 98% of models.

[@HighVolume12]

How about using brim or raft before using a bed adhesive?

[@julescircuits845]

Ricky listed adhesive as LAST RESORT! Which automatically includes basics such as slicer based adhesion options.

[@noobt4eguns]

Nice advices 🇨🇾👍🏻

[@markshrubb]

Any recommendations on where to start on a ender 3 pro I got it second hand and everything I do I just can't get it to work right

[@RafaAelM]

what problems are you facing?

[@markshrubb]

@RafaAelM I managed to get it running ok now took it apart and reassembled it from scratch

[@funwithmadness]

I have homework for you... I think you should put together a general purpose periodic printer maintenance video. Just things that need to be checked/adjusted every few weeks, months or years. I'm at the point where my newest printer is about to turn 1 year old and a couple of days ago, its print quality dropped like a stone. I've even had a couple of failures which are the first since I pulled the machine out of the box. So clearly, it needs some TLC. The question is, what does that look like?

[@noobt4eguns]

I remove the cr touch on my Ender-3 and the manual setting the bed with the rubbers and glass bed with glue its very nice

[@JesseBakerH]

i've been having a lot of issues with my Bambu A1 wanting to SPEED through prints, especially with different materials. Definitely worth slowing down and gaining consistent adhesion, quality, and strength.

[@marcfair3d]

It doesn't help if you show that on such an old machine. You should show this on a modern printer like a K1 or a P1S and should stand by the printer to show what you do. Just sitting there is much too theoretical. Don't like this video. You are capable of explaining this way better. For example you show the 3dlac but i think it would be better If you show people how much 3dlac you use for the plate. Many people do not know. So... Please do more practical Videos. Thanks!!

[@julescircuits845]

Actually this is most relevant with older less advanced machines. Ricky's videos are 100% on point every time or he edits :) There is no practical way to cover all possible "correct amount of adhesive" really as it varies wildly per individual brand, print, material, temp, environment and bed type.