Glaze Thickness - EVERYTHING you need to know, SPECIFIC GRAVITY, Mixing, Tips, and MORE!

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[@JohnSmith-fw2et]

I would recommend viewing KZbin videos by Sue McLeod Ceramics and John Britt concerning glaze flocculation and glaze deflocculation before just adding and subtracting water to a glaze bucket. Also most glaze manufacturers recommend using distilled water to mix your glazes because of varying mineral and iron content in the water.

[@rebeccamartinez3762]

Hello! Chemist/Potter here! You can also use a hydrometer to measure specific gravity. Price can be from $12 to $200, but if you want to have an accurate reading without measuring with a scale or syringe, just place the hydrometer in your glaze after mixing and read the number it floats to. Make sure the hydrometer has the right range (1.4 to 1.6) and most hydrometers I work with read up to 4 significant figures for the most accurate reading.

[@insertwittyprofilenamehere]

I was literally working on glazing when I got the notification for this video. And funnily I was thinking the one I was using was too thick. Perfect time to learn about it! Thanks John! 😊

[@lakenpottery8355]

Same here! I just got a glaze book and was needing this video!!!

[@amyheadrick5083]

Thank you! I’ve been wanting to dip more then brush to save time , perfect timing!

[@benpatterson4452]

The answer to many clay/ ceramics questions, "Test, test, test". Along with that, "Notes, notes, notes". I purchased several Mayco glazes this past Summer, along with two new clay bodies. So I did quite a bit of testing. I kept track of not only the specific gravity, but also how it behaved as it dried, when it was layered and with which other color, etc. So yeah, did I mention testing? Also, another factor with glazing is bisque temp. The lower the bisque temp, the more porous the body and more they suck in the water in the glaze.

[@Jonthepotter]

Bisque temp! That’s a great variable I forgot to mention

[@YetAnotherPilot]

Check out For Flux Sake podcast, with Matt Katz. He bisque fires at Cone 08! Going to try this out myself.

[@penelope5534]

I grew up going to the ceramic shop, and I only ever used premixed glazes. I feel as though I'm getting my degree in ceramics, LOL. I went to JTPU Thank you Jon!

[@Marcdrichter]

Always so helpful! Thanks for taking the time.

[@willemh3319]

this was a damn good vid tnx

[@micheledickey4066]

Why oh why has no one explained it like this!?!?! I have always been so incredibly frustrated with specific gravity! This is soo easy! I honestly can not thank you enough John!! Thank you!!

[@Tracyhopkinsontextileartist65]

Wow this makes it easy to understand. Just done my first pottery hand in at Uni. We have been trying different glazes with slab, coil and pinch building.

[@theceramicrepairstudio]

Really useful, I really enjoyed the video. 😀

[@sandrapalomaaldunatepage3467]

Thank you!! I learn a lot with your videos 😊 Hi from Chile 🇨🇱🌸

[@Embracingwanderlust]

This is perfect! I’m about to purchase my first round of glazes and would really like to purchase dry material but it seemed intimidating. So thank you!! I would love a video on the stages of dryness and best way to tell them apart. I live in Utah and it’s a very dry climate. So I’m still learning how to dry them evenly when I’m looking to carve designs at the leather hard stage (still not 100% sure when they are truly at that stage :-). I would love more details on how to know leather vs leather hard and best times for handles, carving or stamping. Much appreciated.

[@micheledickey4066]

Can I make a suggestion for you as to when to carve your pottery. I was told by an incredibly well known potter to carve my pots when they are pretty leather hard and not leather soft at all. When I did that I got terrible results! I had several pots that I was waiting to dry out for another day or two so I carved them and that worked incredibly well for me. Honestly it is a lot of preference when it comes to carving at what stage as long as you aren’t misshaping your pot or causing any dust. Just a suggestion.

[@lindalee945]

I am new.... but what I noticed was that when I carved on "leather" the edges are smooth & if I make a mistake I just put the clay back Pressed and keep going but lines tend to be deep. If is "leather hard" swallow or deep Carving edges are smooth. A little bit past "leather hard" deep or swallow Carving I know right away because I can see the crumbs on the edges.

[@elizabethmckinley1932]

This answered a ton of questions only creating different ones now that I have my own kiln. Can you address sometime how glazes and types of clay bodies are affected by opening the peep holes. Thank you for your videos. I agree with P Carr below. It’s like getting a degree without the debt!

[@lisayates4230]

Thank you! I will be experimenting soon.

[@adoraaathacreator]

Very helpful and informative 😊

[@ulrikaa1581]

Wow! Glazes are like diabetes. Sooooo many variables to consider. Thank you for sharing this video. 🙏🏼

[@jivoydom.ecolife]

Thank you for this video. Very interesting and useful

[@41laurad]

Thank you, so informative.

[@jamesewins1125]

viscosity is another element affected by flocculence.

[@jennythorarensen2299]

Great video! Thank you so much for making this video. You have a way of making things simple and understandable.

[@applesfallnfromatree]

super helpful, thank you

[@neilahalter9663]

Thank you I have learned a lot from this video. You do a great job.

[@armadillojudaicalovers9386]

Thank you!

[@kennethcolon4269]

Have you made a video about stamps? Or making your own stamps or signature stamp?

[@kevinleong4467]

I love colored clay and colored slip… yet clear glaze is the hardest for me to apply. I like to dip however clear is so hard because if there is too little it will be bumpy yet too thick and it will be cloudy.

[@melanies734]

Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. 👍

[@fern1635]

very clear and helpful video thank you!

[@reedandembry]

This was so helpful!!!! Thank you!

[@nancythomas9719]

Hey Jon, love your videos!! I’ve been doing pottery for 4 years now. Can you do a video on how You achieve the drippy glaze on your mugs. I love that. Most of my glaze is amaco but I would think it would make much difference if I knew how to do it. Thank you!!

[@kennethcolon4269]

Can you talk about crystal glaze? I started using mayco jungle gems for the first time and I got scared when I started applying glaze and seeing chunks of crystal.

[@MaycoColors]

Check out out KZbin channel ;)

[@mrohmiller1098]

The chunks of crystal are what make those beautiful blooms that give the glaze it's name. Better to apply more crystals near the top, and much fewer near the bottom of any pot, to prevent drips & kiln shelf damage.😉

[@lydiaferwerda1374]

Thank you! In college my professor measured by sticking his finger in the glaze and if you couldn’t see through it was good to use 😂 So thank you for this data driven and more dependable way to measure!!

[@karlapoly]

Where can i buy the powder glaze in usa im new, love your videos im a fan

[@micheledickey4066]

Most places that sell glazes also sell dry glazes. Mayco sells their glazes in glaze form as well as 5 and 25 lb dry form!

[@ryanfitzalan8634]

can you use a hydrometer?

[@loveandlight4875]

John, how thick is the max I can go in Poteryy only because I want to build something which requires me to make boxes but I don’t want to make boxes I want to just cut a thick piece of slap. Please let

[@elizaboyer3100]

What is the difference between paint on glaze and dip glaze and how do you know Wich one to use?

[@sharimitchell550]

Is the recommended range of SG from Mayco also what you would use for all other dipping glazes?

[@willemh3319]

so measure before mixing

[@codename495]

Measure and follow the instructions, I imagine it says that on the package as well.

[@kirsilipponen4226]

Thank You 😀

[@TheJmh19]

the question I have is there (if you are mixing your own glazes) an average glaze gravity for say mid fire glazes? Example: most glazes call for a gravity between 1.8 and 3.6. or what ever the number is. that way I could start with gravity and work my way back. hope that makes sense

[@sheyennestowe8393]

So when I mix glazes by myself I see on Glaze they say "have an SG of 1.45" or something. I understand how you could measure the SG after you mix it in, but how do I know how much water to measure out before I mix it in based on a decimal like this? Can't tell if it is relative to the 110 gram dry mix.

[@marco21falcon]

I am looking at an older cress fx27p. The price is awesome and seems to be in very good shape. Do you know anything about this model?

[@inesferreira183]

I have a question! All my glazes works well except one. They are commercial dry glazes that I mix with water for dripping. The turqoise one, when its gired gets me an uneven tone. Some parts transparent and other parts with coverage, when it should have a good opaque coverage, its ttansparent and lighter at some spots.. I've tried qith different thickness. Should I test with more than 3 seconds? I asked the store and they said if I drip longer than that, it would have a big layer and wont dry. Do you have any tips for me? I hate uneven spots of glaze.

[@karingroot991]

I have never worked with Specific Gravity before (never even heard of it until a few months ago). If a powder glaze doesn't state the SG, how do you know what it should be? If your SG is higher, let's say 1.5 (where it should be 1.4), should you add water, right????? SG doesn't compute with me yet lol

[@____Ann____]

Right. If it is too high, just add water