GM Gauge Cluster Stepper Repair and LED Install

Replaced the stepper motors in this GM gauge cluster. I forget what model truck its out of. Either a Tahoe or Suburban. The truck has been sitting for a year because the speedo finally stopped moving after the RPM and temp stopped. I replaced them all with a kit I got on Amazon and then I adapter some 5050 Blue LEDs to fit in place of the backlight bulbs. The LED uses a 150ohm resistor for current limiting. my phone was recording in 1080 not 4K Motor Kit www.goo.gl/eTFoq7

[@robestey5628]

You sir are an excellent instructor. Clear, concise and thorough. Your vid presentation view was excellent. Thank you so much.

[@FixitFrank]

Thanks Rob! I really appreciate the feedback. You are very very welcome

[@edwardcastro6864]

amen learned more in your viseo!!! then all the ones i've watched !!! keep up the great work

[@FixitFrank]

Thank you kindly sir. I appreciate that!

[@sest1273]

You were amazing at describing how to do all of this. Thank you so much

[@samwest7157]

The empty corner space is usually for a transmission fluid temperature gauge. Good for hauling trailers, etc. to keep an eye on overloading the transmission.

[@FixitFrank]

Thank you! I know I have seen stuff there on other displays but wasn't sure on this one. I'm not so much a car guy as I am a general electronics guy. I can work on cars just fine(to a point) but when you get to the various models, its not my specialty at all. I really appreciate the info. Hopefully this thread will have enough answers for anyone else who searches for it.

[@bikerbitch44]

Yes finally a good tutorial of information much needed.. thanks so much..

[@wldhrseracr]

Man, thats a great and very, very informative video. Thanks for posting this, great job!...keep it up!

[@the_ure]

Wish i could double like, best video for the process, thanks.

[@HorseGirl256]

I recently did this on my Chevy Silverado with LEDs from amazon. They should have resistors in them already. I did a super clean job and I thought it turned out great. I tested them with a 9 volt battery and some wire to be sure they all worked and they did. But when I put it in my truck only the blinker lights want to work. Any ideas as to what’s going on? All the other dash lights and stepper motors work as well, just not the lights behind the gauges.

[@TOXICOINDUSTRIAL]

The missing gauge is for the transmission temperature on the heavy duty trucks.... Thanks for the video.

[@FixitFrank]

Sweet! Thanks man!

[@abtg.global]

Incredible job producing this video! Best I've watched. I have an H2 SUT 2007 that just had auto start installed and now the speedometer light and the three light to the right are out. All lights to the left still work fine. Can't say the installer did it as I didn't notice for a couple of days. Thanks for the great instruction. Where does one get the LEDs for this?

[@FixitFrank]

Many thanks! I appreciate that! I found the LEDs on Amazon or Ebay. I want to say it was $20-30? It was pretty cheap. Now you can pop the LED into the adapter socket and plug it right in. No soldering needed. I think they are listed under "gauge light kits"

[@9BallGuru]

awesome video, thank you so much!

[@FixitFrank]

Glad it helped!

[@tonycooper846]

Great video Ok on my end I did just like you, installed my lights checked them ALL but only my two led lights work on the temp gage and gas gage rest of them do not come on, when installed, I’m a Rookie, I need help TIA

[@fullstridepropertymaintena3776]

nice .thanks for sharing

[@johnmcdowell6795]

Thank you for posting this it really helped me figuring out my dash :{)

[@FixitFrank]

You're very welcome! I'm glad it was useful

[@NordicDan]

Where did you source the LEDs? I've only found individual SMD parts in the 5050 size, which I wouldn't be opposed to, but adding the resistor would make for extra work.

[@sosumaster]

Fantastic tutorial. One question, how did you determine the positive post on the circuit board for the led's?

[@FixitFrank]

If I recall correctly, I used the negative terminal of a filter capacitor. I measured continuity to each pin and marked them that way.

[@jasontownsend4052]

Great video, best I've seen so far. A few questions: Can you give specific part numbers to buy the stepper motors and LED light bulbs? Also, how did you find the positive of the lights on the board itself? I saw you had them marked but how did you come by that. My board looks exactly the same, would I be able to just copy your points (2004 Sierra).

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Jason! Thanks for the compliment! I have to look into my purchase history but I will find it for you. The polarity I figured out by checking continuity from the negative side of a filter capacitor. Then marked it. Feel free to use my markings though. It'll be way easier. I'll need a few days to get you the part numbers but I will get you the numbers.

[@jerrylinn7960]

I agree with your assessment -- it is the best, but does not include the mapping of the polarity. You can determine that with a Digital volt meter (or an LED light). Unfortunately, I cannot include a PDF file with that mapping, but here it is as text: - Turn signals, + on top; - DS 17, DS 19 and DS 20: + Lower left corner; - DS xx, + Lower right corner (located just to the right of the spedo stepper); - DS 21, + Upper right corner; - DS 18 and DS 43 , + bottom center - Ground (-) opposite side ... Hope this helps

[@FixitFrank]

Im going to pin this or lock it or whatever its called so people can find this easier. Thank you for taking the time to share!

[@MASTERMINDSindia]

Sir thanks for info i am suscribe and notification Bell Icon thanks

[@FixitFrank]

Thanks so much!

[@connect2reality]

How do figure out which is negative and positive for the lights?

[@FixitFrank]

I used a capacitor to ohm out the polarity. I believe there is another comment here with the polarity listed.

[@laethe230]

It looks like my ford escape has solderless contacts instead? How do I remove these? They also have plastic rivets. I don't want to just go pulling things off if that's not whats required 😅

[@laethe230]

I think my part number is SONCEBOZ 6403R200

[@aaronzietsma598]

Would doing to much heat cause the guages to not work? I think I messed it up

[@FixitFrank]

It's possible. They are pretty delicate but is rule out the senders and battery voltage first

[@rickygray7767]

Awesome video thank you. You make it look so easy but l know it not.

[@FixitFrank]

Thanks man, I'm glad this is helping people.

[@daver681]

I appreciate your video but out of all the videos on KZbin I have not found one video that shows details of which light pin is Hot and which is Neg, Thanks.

[@FixitFrank]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGLUZYmQordrqqs If you use an ohm meter and put one probe on the negative side of either of the capacitors at 10:39(the black stripe on the metal can), you can touch either of the pads. One pad will give you 0 ohms(or very close), that is Negative/Ground. The other pad will be many many Kilo Ohms or more and be positive. Then if you watch a little longer I do mark + on the positive pad side. 13:35 for instance, Look at the upper right. You can use that to find the other positive pads.

[@chasetoedter9185]

So I ordered 5mm LED bulbs of Amazon to replace my old ones with... Is this not the right thing to get? I know you you touch on it but how do I know which way to to install the LED the right direction?

[@FixitFrank]

Make sure you have a resistor or the leds will burn up. I think there is another comment here that has the layout. I found negative by measuring continuity from a negative side of a capacitor . The LED polarity is set by the lead length. The longer leg is the anode or positive. Shorter leg is the cathode or negative. You want some sort of resistor though to limit the current. Roughly 800-1200 ohm(1kohm) to get 10-20 milliamps to each led.

[@chasetoedter9185]

Yea I'm glad I watch your video. I cancelled my order and bought LEDs with built in resistors.

[@FixitFrank]

Sweet! Yeah you are better off with the pre-loaded resistors in this case. Next time I have a display in here, I will document the polarity better.

[@aaronzietsma598]

I did all the motors and the LEDS and the lights work but the motors are all off and or not working correctly. My oil pressure needle still dances and I think the sending unit must be the issue. My tac is getting power but doesn't go higher than 1000 rpm

[@aaronzietsma598]

Speedometer is the only on that seams to be correct

[@FixitFrank]

Hmm. Might be the senders or the voltages being off due to bad capacitors on that board. I like your idea of starting at the senders though. Without knowing their condition, you may end up running in circles.

[@zbiddison]

can you tell me what bulbs you ordered that have the resisters on them because i cannot find any.

[@FixitFrank]

I soldered them on myself. You can also buy them ready to plug in without any soldering. Something like this would work. They are using 3 LED together which negates the need for a resistor. www.amazon.com/Partsam-Instrument-Cluster-Dashboard-Indicator/dp/B00XPCY4V6/ref=sr_1_15?

[@Super240sxturbo]

@@FixitFrank those don't have the resistors like the ones you installed, I installed them in my Tahoe and they burnt out in a year with no resistor.

[@FixitFrank]

@@Super240sxturbo makes sense. They will overheat at a full 12v and over 20ma. Nowadays you can buy direct drop in LEDs. They have the resistor built in. This kit is "ok". I have it and for most cars its fine. Some cars the socket is loose. smile.amazon.com/cciyu-Multi-color-Instrument-Dashboard-Cluster/dp/B014FBGKLC/ref=sr_1_2

[@nubreed0410]

What size is positive on the circuit board

[@FixitFrank]

I forget honestly,but you can use the capacitors to determine it. Measure continuity from the negative side of the cap to each bulb contact. Every contact that measures zero ohms is the negative. Positive is obviously the other side.

[@jeffteel65]

Looking for a stepper for 1990 Chevy Silverado 1500 have any idea where I can get one

[@FixitFrank]

Which one? I learned many of the older steppers are different (temp versus gas guage etc)

[@jeffteel65]

For the fuel 1990 model

[@PhilDay44]

how did you know where to mark positive?

[@FixitFrank]

I found it by measuring where the positive side of the capacitor connected if I recall correctly.

[@eddiespradlin166]

Where can i buy the light bulbs ?

[@FixitFrank]

I bought them on eBay if I recall correctly. You can now buy LEDs with bases that will fit in the existing socket. Check on eBay using the make of your vehicle and you will see many options.

[@donatotaa3713]

Can you do mind and how much your charges Hummer H2 2003

[@FixitFrank]

I could. I'd have to price out the motors but if you want email me, its listed on the about page and we can discuss.

[@lainemann1421]

Transmission fluid gage

[@timhunt1989]

the light that says what gear your in like drive and reverse is out how to I replace that ?

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Tim. The PNRD12 display is called a VFD(vacuum fluorescent display). VFD's by design tend to have that blue/green look to them due to the gas inside the enclosure. It's not really possible to change the color with another component. The only way I can see to kind of change the color would be to use a colored light gel(colored plastic sheet used in the lighting business). Problem with that is the green/blue VFD wont give you much variation for red or yellow. It'd be a waste of your time in my opinion. A possibility would be replacing the entire VFD with an LED display but that is a huge modification that I wouldn't be able to explain in a comment. It would also be very expensive and time consuming.

[@timhunt1989]

ok where can i get the vactume tube for the transmission position indicator ?

[@timhunt1989]

@@FixitFrank It's burned out i need to replace it thats all. And thank you for your time

[@FixitFrank]

@@timhunt1989 ohh. I got you. They don't usually burn out. At least it's almost impossible to burn out. You probably lost a resistor that feeds the filament of the power to it. Above where it says DS19 is an array of resistors that I think send power to the tube. Make sure they are not bad. Another thing to try is carefully connect the display back up to the car(with it apart) and measure voltage at the VFD. You should have about 30V on one of the end pins. If not, that is your issue. The power supply in the display failed. I don't have one to look at or I'd tell you where the parts are. I'd start at that resistor array and re-solder them. I know they get hot and can desolder themselves, even if they look connected.

[@timhunt1989]

then again maybe it's the switch that tells the light what gear im in ?? any thoughts on that ?

[@jamesjefferies376]

Did they all work?

[@FixitFrank]

They did! In fact they worked until the truck died. These days you can buy led drop in bulbs so this method is kind of obsolete. But if you need your LEDs to never get loose, then soldering might be more reliable

[@gqftoast]

Trans temp

[@lainemann1421]

I have that exact one , can you do mine for me $

[@FixitFrank]

You can actually buy drop in bulbs these days that replace the old ones with LEDs. No soldering required. Just lookup your model truck and "led gauge bulbs". I did my toyota truck with them and it was super easy.