GM Passkey Passlock VATS Bypass

[@seaturkey5608]

Anyone that has trouble starting the first couple tries but then runs normal or will start back up without problems if it was just turned off (specifically 4.3 or 5.7) may have a bad fuel regulator. Fought with a few vehicles for years before I came across the solution thanks to a very knowledgeable parts salesman. Have heard of these security problems but haven't encountered one myself, knock on wood.

[@jamesstafford8250]

Mr Chris, it's a funny thing....the new ignition switch that was bought, failed ohms testing. Got a new one and everything worked out well. Thanks for your guidance and help. I greatly appreciated the response back. May you and your family have a blessed night.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

I figured it had to be up from where you jumped it. Your welcome and you and yours have a blessed evening as well!

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Ten Second BuickGN sorry for the late response. Been a busy holiday season for me this year. Generally if the vehicle starts for a second or so and idles fine during that time it is VATS. From what I know and have experienced the only time it is a fuel pump or other fuel related issue is if it will not run at all. For whatever reason GM lets the vehicle start before it checks the key. If the key passes it runs if it does not match what is registered, it shuts back off.

[@bluntman99999]

Great video, actually showing the wires clearly. Thank you.

[@obfuscated3090]

If the resistor trick doesn't work due to other Passlock problems, you can get an inexpensive mailorder tune to delete Passlock from your PCM, and can get Passlock signal spoofing modules from folks like Baker Electronix which send the enable signal normally sent by your BCM to the PCM. Resistor is cheaper than module is cheaper than tune. I've been researching Passlock all evening to determine how best to exterminate it from my K1500.

[@heroknaderi]

I have a 2002 pontiac grand prix se and it has Pass Key iii. Im guessing this method you showed should work on it too.

[@jonathan99786]

been hitting my head against the wall for a year already and i think you just save my day. thanks a lot Chris Bowling. Just need to find a resistor now.

[@jimmiemorgan5875]

Lmm.. lol

[@harryjones8275]

Here are some of the Resistor Values for the Ignition Key Security problem. I copied this from another user on KZbin and only provide it so you have a reference. Combining resistors to get the approximate value will work as well. Seems that the values are not exact and a 10 % tolerance is probably OK.. Good Luck. Getting a cheap breakout board will simplify the whole process. These are in ohms. 402, 523, 681, 887, 1130, 1470, 1870 , 2310, 3010, 3740, 4750, 6040,7500, 9350, 11801.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Thanks for the input!

[@sleepyskaterzzz]

Harry Jones mine was 1238ohms, connected a 1kohm and 2x 100 ohm resistors (1amp, tried 1/4amp but they didn't work for me) in a line and used that. works good after a relearn

[@calvinberry9934]

This video is so helpful.. I have this problem with my 2002 1500 Silverado.. This was a great help.. I'll get back as soon as I do this and see if it passes the VATS.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Also try the relearn procedure as well if you haven't already dug into it.

[@srt4x4]

How did you set up a relay for the remote start with that resistor bypass ... Did you ever get around to making that video? Or maybe a write up how to

[@mjones3938]

Chris... Greetings once again.. Here what I found out.. I can rebuild an engine but cannot figure out a meter.. so this is what I did.. I had a cheap meter with a needle as a gauge. I had it set on RX1k and it read 3... when I set it at RX10 it reads 40. when I borrowed a friends digital meter like yours in the vid.. it was set at min.. and I got a reading of 14.08 so I purchased a 15ohm meter and did as your vid suggest and the truck would not start.. when I reconnected the yellow wire back together it still would not start it would crank over but not start.. I had to wait for at least 10 min before it would start.. ONE Thing I have to mention is in your video you said to connect to meter then turn the key to the on position.. I did not get any readings.. the digital meter stayed at zero.. I had to Turn the key as if I was starting the truck the let go of the key then I got a reading on the meter of the 14.08.. Hope this helps in some way as to what the heck is going on with the truck.. P.S.. if you live near the state of PA. I would gladly get the truck to you.. KIDDING>. waiting on your response.. Thanks again Myron

[@ChrisBowling92769]

If you feel like shipping it out to the Hill Country in Texas! I figured the meter was not speaking to you correctly...lol. OK, so what your old needle meter is telling you is that you need about 400 ohms. That sounds more like it. Regardless of what it is reading - lets do this: Put 400 ohms (I think 15 ohms is out of range and will not work) across the uncut black wire and the yellow wire heading back towards the BCM (under the steering column). Give it a shot and see if it starts. If it does not.... perform this re-learn procedure: 1. Insert your key into the ignition switch. 2. Turn to the “On” position without starting the engine. The security light should illuminate and stay on. 3. Wait approximately 10 minutes or until the security light turns off. 4. Turn off the ignition switch and wait 5 seconds. 5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 two more times with the same key. 6. Turn the ignition off. The vehicle will now learn the 400 ohms you put in on the next start cycle. 7. Start the vehicle. If vehicle starts and runs normally, and security light is off, the relearn is complete. Let me know!

[@mjones3938]

Hey Chris.. well I took the thermostat out of the my truck and put 2 gal for anti freeze in it.. .. ran a couple more ground wires from the body and engine back to the battery,, started the truck and it ran for about an hour. so I ran into my house to check on my elderly parent and when i came back out the truck was off.. it started back up fine and when I ran back into the house to check on my elderly parent once again and came out it was off.. both times though it did restart and ran fine. I had the fuel pressure test ready and started the truck.. and stayed with it. and it never shut down.. the pressure was 49lbs.. and never moved.. however the truck went into a "reduced engine power".. of course no power just misses really bad.. I checked the pressure and it was at 49lbs.. when I shut the truck down and just turned the key to the on position you can hear the throttle body click.. and a "HISS" around the fuel line on the left side of the engine. I checked the pressure. it was zero.. I shut the the key off and turned it to the on position a few times. you can hear the fuel pump kick on. and the hiss and click from the throttle body and the pressure said zero.. BUT when I started the truck the pressure was 49lbs.. it was right back in the "reduced engine power" mode.. I shut it down. waited about 10 to 15 min and the truck ran fine.. for about 20 min then went into that mode again.. I can some how get that figured out it should run fine.. the manual says its a over heating problem.. but with a new water pump. no thermostat. new engine temp sensor how can that be possible. UGH>. thanks again Myron

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Scratching my head... Anytime you turn the ignition to on it should pump up fuel to the rails, so not really understanding why you didn't have any pressure those few times. If the motor is going into reduced power mode, it should be throwing codes - what codes do you have in the system? Really need to know what codes you are getting to see what the computer is doing/diagnosing/etc. Also - you say you started the truck back up into reduced power mode and you had a steady 49lbs or was that a brief observation? If it is not overheating and going into protect mode, it seems like air getting into the fuel line somehow? Have you had the tank and pump assembly out and looked inside the tank to make sure nothing weird is going on there? In theory, i don't really see how that could happen though unless you are running on empty. I am pretty stumped - you only need fuel, crank, injectors enabled and air to make that motor run... It sounds like the computer is seeing something to safeguard the engine, so put a good scanner on it or find someone that has one. Or run to the parts store and at least get them to perform a basic scan.

[@mjones3938]

Chris Bowling the 49 lbs was not brief.. it was a constant pressure both when it ran normally or in Reduced power mode.. the only thing I noticed different is the truck kept running .. usually it goes into a R P M mode then dies.. and you cannot restart it.. but now it will restart and stay in R P M unless I let it set and cool down some.. then it will run fine.. someone told me that the TBI valve is locked in R P M.. and to disconnect it.. but that is getting into some stuff I am not aware of...

[@ChrisBowling92769]

M Jones I am not aware of a TBI valve either - your truck does not have throttle body injection if that is what he is what TBI is referring to. These trucks have single port injection or SPI. Gotta have some codes to go any further. Here is a write up on protect mode: Should be setting DTC P1258 Engine Coolant Overtemperature - Protection Mode Active Circuit Description In order to reduce the engine temperature the PCM has the ability to disable a number of fuel injectors during an engine over temperature condition. The PCM considers the engine over temperature whenever the ECT reaches a predetermined temperature. This DTC sets in order to show that the PCM detected an over temperature condition and that the system engaged the protection mode. Conditions for Running the DTC DTCs P0117, P0118, P0125 are not set. The engine is running. Conditions for Setting the DTC The engine coolant temperature is greater than 132°C (270°F). The above conditions present for greater than 10.0 seconds. Action Taken When the DTC Sets The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails. The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the PCM stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the PCM records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The PCM writes the conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records. Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC The PCM turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail. A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail. A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic. Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC. Diagnostic Aids Important If an overheating condition exists, repair the overheat condition and change the engine oil and filter. Using the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can help determine how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also help determine how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed. For an intermittent condition, refer to Symptoms

[@mjones3938]

Chris Bowling HOLY CRAP.. I will follow through the info you sent and get back to you on what I can find out.. Thanks again for all the info.

[@mjones3938]

Hey Chris.. I have been tinkering with my truck and discovered that when I pulled the connection from the temp sensor/ sending unit from the block. the engine picked up in rpm's and then quickly shut down. It would restart but in the reduced engine power mode.. until I plugged the wire back in.. then it ran fine. but after a short time. no matter what I did the engine stayed in the reduced power mode and eventually would shut down then when tried to restart. it did nothing other than the lights and radio would come on. but would not turn over.. I did talk to auto zone they said if I can get it to them they will test it to see if it is sensing the engine is hot when it is not. . is there any way to bypass that? so the engine thinks its cold? just so i can drive it to auto zone? I did connect an extra temp sensor to the wire but it ran just the same as if I had it connected to the engine. thanks again..

[@johnvanderbossche5565]

Hey Chris Bowling I have a 99 chevy Silverado , Tried the bypass however I'm not sure the wires to use I have a red/white,Yellow and orange black from the passlock sensor. The yellow is passlock signal sensor input,the red wht is 12 v ref and the orn black is the sensor ground, the truck starts for 2 seconds and shuts off security does not display nor does my 4x4 or service engine soon lights (think its a faulty instrument cluster) not sure if the security light not working also effects the vats system I have 2 different wire diagrams because the 99 (late year) is when they initially changed body styles one diagram shows it does indeed affect it the other shows it does not however the wires for the one that says that it is affected for the security lamp do not exist in the cluster wiring. This is ultra annoying.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

+John Vanderbossche Sorry about the delayed response - were you able to figure it out? I don't recall the IP light having to work for VATS to pass and send a "start and run" command to the PCM, but I have been wrong before. At any rate, I think you should be using the orange black and yellow if you haven't figured it out already.

[@mikedavis2768]

John Vanderbossche

[@mikedavis2768]

John Va nderbossche

[@sandramunholland6464]

My 08 Pontiac G6 GT wouldnt start, only a click when i would try. Anti-Theft logo stayed on, Starter was tested...good....Key reprogrammed..good....if you are having this same problem it may be your battery. Turns out thats all mine was, wasnt pushing enough volts to re-arm the security system therefore it was staying on. put a different battery in from my truck and the logo went off and started right away. Purchased a new one and no problems. Hopefully this helped anyone having this issue. Start with the small stuff and work your way up :)

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Good to hear your problem is solved. Yes, normally when all your getting is a clicking trying to start, the first suspect would be the battery, then the starter.

[@chrishoward6793]

The resister is not in the key on these vehicles, its a sensor in the cylinder housing that goes bad. theres a small magnet in the cylinder that when turned makes contact with the sensor in the cylinder housing. Sometimes the sensor can be recalibrated by reflashing the theft deterrent system via the gm SPS software. Otherwise the housing has to be replaced that contains the sensor and then the system relearned. I've repaired many of these over the last 15 years being that I'm a automotive locksmith..

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Chris Howard Thanks, I realize that I mis-spoke in the video and that is why I put in caps "PLEASE CLICK THE "SHOW MORE" BELOW AND SPEND A MINUTE READING THRU THIS - IT MAY HELP YOU MORE THAN THE VIDEO. THANKS!" on the first sentence of the description for clarification. And just FYI - you don't need GM Software to relearn the sensor there is a link to a procedure in my write up that tells you how you can do it without.

[@mojomana7703]

Measure key resistance easier it has resister built in and completes the circuit. 5v return and ground... Simple pcm looks for .8-4.6 on return is all

[@ChrisBowling92769]

This does not apply for keys with resistors. Keys with resistors is a different system than what is being explained in the video.

[@charityhorton1195]

Ok I need advice please! I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban that at first won't start after replacing the fuel pump and ignition sensor it will start but won't stay running. So we put on a new ignition switch and it still won't stay running. We final realized that every time we barely touch the steering wheel the car is shutting off. So now we think it's in the security system we did try to bypass it at the key ignition area. But bypassing it there didn't help. My question is try what you have in this video something you would recommend or is there another place we should try to disarm the system.

[@w8lifter21]

So just to be clear.....cut the black, put resistor in line, connect vehicle side of the yellow to vehicle side of Black?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Lol, I'm going to have to go back and watch my own video for a refresher course... It's been a long time since I did one like this. Let me review and I'll confirm

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Do not cut the black. Cut the yellow. Just strip some of the insulation of the black and put the resistor on the black and to the yellow going back into the dash. Tape up the yellow going up to the hall sensor in the key cylinder

[@w8lifter21]

Chris Bowling got it, thanks for making the video and replying even after all this time 🤣👍🏼. Happy Holidays.

[@bobbyjones4205]

it drove me drove Me Badd couldn't figure it out couldn't figure it out thanks to you guys out there you my car runs again

[@gdbvobd]

Would love some more in depth help with passlock 2 I'm replacing my ignition and can't get the security light to stop flashing

[@thepunisherknuckleup5199]

O2 escalade stuck in thift mode lights blinking horn going off nothing when I turn it over

[@eriklogan2794]

i have a 2002 suburban, it has the orange with black strip wire, no black wire, i got resistance at yellow wire coming out under dash at 480

[@ChrisBowling92769]

That is correct the 2002 will have an orange black instead of a black.

[@eriklogan2794]

Chris Bowling yes but i don't know why i dont have any resistance, there were two yellow wires one back to plug and one to fuse box, but no reading on wire going to ignition

[@jasoncochrane9821]

I have a 2002 cadillac deville I need to bypass passkey III. I've been stuck in the car with my 7 year old daughter. I'm broke not being able to work. Nobody will help simply asking here

[@artguzman9916]

Hi chirs I got a 00 escalade and mine well do is works for days and out of no wear it well start then dye like in your video so ill leave it all day or few hours then it well work again I belive its my vats system security light does not flash your thoughts also on your video you put cut the yellow wire do I do the same for the black one then put the wire or just cut the yellow wire the just strip the black one like on video and then put the resister in

[@ChrisBowling92769]

You do not cut the black wire. Your '00 may be different in wiring colors as they changed things in '03 and mine is '07. However, with you saying the security light does not flash - does it come on and stay on when you have this problem? If the security light is not coming on, you may be at end of life on your fuel pump. How many miles on the escalade? I have a '97 Z71 that has the same motor as yours and I have replaced the fuel pump twice.

[@brianjones2228]

Hey Chris, Attempting to install a remote start in my 99 bonneville. I have all the wiring diagrams and got everything wired up and then when I went to use the remote start it would turn on the power (blower, lights, radio) but the car wouldn't crank. So, Im thinking VATS. I have the resistor in the key and getting the resistance reading tomorrow. Also, i know my antitheft wires are both white inside an orange tube. You side in your video that you were going to wire it up so it would only bypass the VATS when you used the remote start. I was just wondering how you ended up wiring your relay. Im not really familiar with relays

[@brianjones2228]

also i found this www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/newsite/pictures/pdfs/773%20STARTER%20KILL%20to%20IGNITION%20SWITCH%20HARNESS.pdf but I dont know what the immobilizer output from the module would be, and what exactly "key side of starter" and "Underdash side of the starter" stupid question i know. Is it just where ever you make the cut the key side is above and vise versa.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Brian - this diagram is the relay that immobilizes your starter or disables the starter from cranking unless your alarm is in the "disarm" mode. In a remote start system, you will have an additional relay (which can be internal to your alarm system or external like the diagram you reference) that cranks the motor without a key. A few things have to happen for your vehicle to start - Ignition, crank, and fuel. So in most GM VATS the system only disables fuel. So my first thought is that the starter immobilizer relay or your crank output to the starter is not wired up correctly. You would need to meter the coil side of that relay (85 and 86) and/or the crank output to make sure it is changing state when you initiate a remote start.

[@chaveazie2815]

I have a 2004 gmc Sierra At first I thought it was the VATS but it doesn't crank at all I could really use it help

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Joe Chavez No crank is generally something else unless there is an aftermarket alarm system in it. There is a crank fuse you could check - just look at your fuse directory, but unless you already have an aftermarket alarm I am not aware of factory alarm in an '04 that disables the crank.

[@gefflynn7171]

Great vid! I have a remote start on my 88 1999 olds... do you know the wire procedure with a remote start to do this bypass for the security system? I have keys with the raised resistor and it will not crank with either key. Thanks in advance.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Jeff, sorry I missed this. It would probably be the same but you would have to find some wiring diagrams specific for that vehicle. I am not familiar with what GM did in oldsmobile - like some Cadillac models have different stuff than what GM put in non-lux brands but some have the same as non-lux brands ie the Escalade is the same as Chevy/GMC truck/SUV platform, good luck.

[@gefflynn7171]

Chris, No worries, I actually found a fantastic resource to fix and bypass the issue. It is a module from New Rockies. GREAT product. Works like a charm! Peace newrockies.com/passlock-bypass-2/

[@richardmontgomery7665]

I have a 99 buick regal gs I've had multiple problems with the vats and tried everything I can online to fix and still can't get the car to run

[@michaelcadieux3139]

Hey chris, having no luck so far.. have tryed a few resistor values sec light still on, no start, do you know is the red w white stripe supposed to be 12+?

[@Al-mp7fv]

did u ever find out what the red wire does, if u can please let me know.

[@AndyBellPops]

Hey Chris …thank you so much… for this video …I got mine to start …but now I know how to find the correct resistor to install …well done….👏👏👏 abs/pops👨🏼‍🦳

[@einnuyuk1]

Hello Chris Bowling! I have a 2000 GM shuttle bus with the 7.4 liter 454. I’ve had it for years and it is doing what you posted. I checked fuse box and found security fuse blown. Checked to see if i had a VATS module under the dash and I did. Opened it up and a high temp resistor (W1840K) resistor was fried. Part number on my box was 16224975 and I was wondering if this bypass would completely get me away from purchasing another module. My security light stays on, but my wires are orange/black stripe, yellow and red/white stripe. I noticed you stated to orange with black stripe was ground and yellow was data. My security light stays on once I turn the key forward. I noticed one gentleman stated he could spray starter fluid into his intake or throttle body and it would run. That doesn’t work in my case. It only ran the 1 to 2 second intervals as it did without me trying to spray into the throttle body. They let me to believe my injectors were being shut off. So I’m apparently in the stage of “long tamper mode” or something. My key looks like a large copy, but I called to see if they had the original and they didn’t. Not sure if I need a new cylinder as well before attempting your video. Any suggestions? Thanks in Advance

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Que Smith sorry I missed this. Have you had any luck? The key should not matter. If you have a VATS module, it may be different, but I'm thinking only the hardware. The concept or theory in that generation from 1996 up until all platforms went to GMT800 is very likely the same. It would be worth 30 minutes to try and relearn.

[@einnuyuk1]

Chris Bowling I ordered another module and it works great now. It had a fried diode and after doing the relearn process, she started right up. Thank you for all you did to help with your video post.

[@Mtrundy]

This is brilliant! Thank you so much, my GMC Sierra will be fixed yet!

[@derwindtd]

will this work on a 1998 gmc sierra 4.3 liter

[@mjones3938]

Chris.. here is an update since I worked on the truck about 4 hours ago... I seen a few places where folks on the web say it might be a ground problem so I cleaned the ground on my fire wall and ran a new ground from the engine itself to the neg. on the battery.. I started the truck went in the house I came out 20 min later and the truck was NOT running.. with the key on that long and not running it does the same as if it was running.. I went to restart and NOTHING.. just all the lights and gauges work but does not turn over.. the low fuel light was on.. so I disconnected the battery and went to get gas.. (about 30 min lapsed.) I reconnected the battery and went to start.. and still nothing.. lights and gauges and all register but nothing else.. as I mentioned the indicator for which gear I am in. is NOT on.. and until that comes on.. it will not turn over... if you turn the key on, off, on off,,, you can hear clicking from the throttle body.. but that is all.. no fuel pump kicking in.. nothing.. UGH>>>>>>>>> I am about to have it shipped to you.. KIDDING>. waiting on your thoughts Myron

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Wow - OK, if you did the re-learn and wiring correctly I am fairly certain it is not VATS. I have gone back thru and re-read your posts and I have to say I really think you have an overheating issue and possibly a fuel pump issue. The PCM looks at the temperature of the vehicle and if it gets to a certain temp, the vehicle enters into a safe mode to protect the engine. It will run like it is severely under powered, although I am not certain how long the PCM will leet it run that way. I assume the thought is to allow you to basically get off the road, stop and shut down the vehicle. I also bet that there is a critical mode temp it will go into where it shuts off the fuel. The way you describe that on cooler days it runs longer makes me think you have a problem with cooling. And the downtime between restarting the vehicle seems to also be varying with temperature. Do you have any codes in the system? Also could be a sign of the fuel pump going bad. Do you have a gauge you can put on the fuel rail and see what it is while it is running? You should never be less than 50lbs I think. Check the codes and the fuel pressure and lets see what you have.

[@mjones3938]

Chris Bowling Greetings again.. first off I want to thank you for sticking with me on this HUGE headache. you mentioned it may be a heating problem and the book with the vehicle says when the engine power mode is on. the vehicle would be over heating.. so about a year ago I replaced the water pump.. thermostat,, and sending unit for the heat.. my temp gauge runs at normal.. and as you mentioned.. yes it does go into an idol mode you can step on the gas and nothing happens other than it boggs down and begins to miss really bad.. once you let off the gas.. it idles smoothly.. So I am not sure how it can still be over heating... I will see if I can test the fuel pressure.. I think I am going to just dive in and change the fuel pump anyways.. because when the vehicle does shut down.. you can turn the truck on but the fuel pump takes a moment or two before it kicks on.. since it is Cold up here and snow in the morn.. unlike your warm part of the country.. It will take me a few days to get that done.. but if you can think of anything else to try in the meantime.. drop me a line and I will check it out.. thanks again...

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Did you get the air out of the cooling system properly throughout? What I mean by that - if you leave a good amount of air in the the system, that gauge may say one thing with air and another when the coolant gets on it. It is not uncommon after a water pump changed for this to happen. What happens in most cases is after you get the pump back on and fill the reserve tank it takes a pretty good amount of time to fully circulate all the air out of the system. So most of us (including me) in a hurry to get back on the road do not get it fully bled of air and full of coolant. A few thoughts for you: 1. The engine protect mode will idle normally - it only cuts the odd or even cylinders when it sees throttle - so that sounds like what yours is doing 2. Get someone to put a scanner on it and get all the codes out of it - if you have a good one you will be able to get the ones Autozone or the likes do not normally get. 3. If you get a gauge on the fuel rail, you will want to get it started, watch it and hopefully you will see it fluctuating and that is a sign of a pump going bad. At idle it should stay at a steady pressure at or above 50lbs

[@mjones3938]

Chris Bowling Chris.. you mentioned about getting the air out of the cooling system?? if it does it by itself after running? the truck has about a few hours of run time on it since I put the water pump on it.. is there a certain way to bleed the air on the newer vehicles?? I am writing because I mentioned the other day I had the truck run for 3 hours and it was cold out.. and 2 days ago it was above 50 and the truck ran 15 min.. today it is 26 out.. and it ran for an hour.. I didnt wait for it to shut down again. I just shut it off.. BECAUSE...... I watch the temp gauge and it was at 185 for the first 45 min of idle. then I ran the rpms up to 2000, and the gauge jumped to 195 it jumped like a second hand on a clock. so I ran it up to 3000 rpms and it jumped again to 210 degrees. after that I shut it down.. I did have the cluster replaced two years ago on a recall because the speedometer was not working and since then my gas gauge is off. I told GM this and they said its in my tank. .but I had no problem before they got there hands on it.. so I just keep the tank above half. also.a friend stopped by and had to remind me that last year when tinkering with it. he noticed the top hose on the radiator extremely hot and the bottom really cold.. the radiator was the same way.. I did run water through it and it seems to come out the same amount although this does not mean it is going through the cooling ports. I am going to pull the thermostat on our next warm day.. and if this all fails I am going to drive the truck to your place. it will take me a good 3 months since I can only drive it 100 feet at a time. but I will pack a huge lunch.. LOL. Your thoughts? thanks again

[@jerryreczulski9683]

Thank you so much I've been trying to figure out how to bypass the security system for three days now and I finally found your video I'm trying to install a car alarm remote starter smart push button on 2004 Chevy Trailblazer and I also I am not sure where a green wire goes two from the alarm system to the harness of my vehicle the name of the wire is called oil pet detection and it keeps electricity after starting the positive is that positive electric cable of oil pet lock remote start engine so if you could tell me what that goes I would greatly appreciate it

[@ChrisBowling92769]

If probably need to see your wiring diagram for whatever alarm you are using. It's been a while since I've put one in, and I didn't have anything like that

[@jerryreczulski9683]

Thank you For respond

[@homegrownluv8106]

Hello new to the channel. Just wanted to explain my issue. I had a stumbling and hesitation problem. Found out it was the head gaskets. Long story short I left my battery disconnected for 3 days while installing heads and waiting on them to be milled. After installing battery my injectors will not fire up. My secretary light will come on once as I turn the key and then turn off when I turn the key to start it it comes back on then off after I stop cranking the truck. Will this work for my 04 Silverado 4.3 please any help is appreciated. I do have a video posted showing my issue. Thx.

[@dimonacastellano2616]

How would I start a car with a broken ignition switch? I have a 1990 Cadillac Fleetwood and I installed the resistor with a switch only the switch is not connected to any wires. How do I start my car?

[@richiethesailor629]

Hi Cris, I did not measure ohms to bypass my security so this is good to understand that vehicles differ! PCM company said I locked up the PCM in my 2003 Silverado jamming it during the relearn procedure?! Also, some say the key has a chip and visa versa (does not)? I am finding that the crankshaft sensor may need a relearn as we replaced that and the camshaft sensor too (w/ plugs, gas lines/filter and soon will try the window switch.) When they send new PCM, I will take it to the dealer as my experiment is out of control. Any advice? Watched DYI's and you seem to have understanding. Thanks, I subscribed!

[@ChrisBowling92769]

What make, model and year are we talking?

[@richiethesailor629]

Oh, this pickup is a 2003 Silverado 5.3 liter extended cab base unit 1500. I like the idea of installing the Pro-Bypass from NEWROCKIES INC. that I found from your commenter (Thanks Bud). NewRockies states that I will still have to perform the "key relearn procedure" with new PCM even if the "By-pass" be installed. Although company just said it will not work on a PCM which does not recognize the vehicle or if PCM has errors!? Autocomptechnologies is where I found my new PCM (programed to VIN#) and they say I must perform relearn procedure precisely. Should we bypass the security before PCM install to then relearn key? Thanks a thousand. Richie

[@Every1Has1]

Thanks Chris, that's good info to keep in mind

[@Shawtycuz]

I got 2002 Firebird base model, with Vat key system and was wondering would it be same set up as your truck!!

[@ChrisBowling92769]

It should be. You may have an orange black instead of black.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Shawtycuz A quick look at the wiring and it may not... Do you have a pellet in the key?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Shawtycuz Download this pdf and tell me which key you have: drive.google.com/file/d/0B_JbzhLZuS5XOVhqLTREOUlFTDA/edit?usp=sharing

[@Calebnroy]

+Chris Bowling I have a 2002 yukon denali it starts than dies. The security light flashes. It may need a fuel pump but I don't want to go to the Dealership. How did you bypass your 02 suburban? I looked at my wires there is five wires just like yours but there is no black wire expect a orange with a black stripe.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Same procedure just probably an orange/black instead of a black. Do the re-learn first and see if that will get you going.

[@rocko2535]

Worked great. Thanks for your video. 02 Pontiac Grand Am

[@FF54Vic]

I have a red/white,and Orange/black which one should I tie into the solid yellow.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

What year/make? I would think the orange/black without knowing, but you should see the resistance change from open to a value between the yellow and correct wire.

[@nickmaglio1105]

I have a 2001 Chevy venture van. Replaced ignition switch. Now security feature wont let it start. Any ideas?

[@samshaya365]

Hi, thanks for the Video. I was wondering if you could help me with something. I have 06 chevy Colorado 4cyl.2.8. And I'm trying to install a remote starter. Could you please tell me which wires should I use for bypass. Thanks

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Sam Shaya , I think those years use the exact same steering column if I'm not mistaken. So this should work provided you have the same color wires

[@j-bobsgarage7535]

I have a 2002 duramax and I want to run a toggle switch for my acc on and a push button for my ignition. I do not need a special oem key to start my pickup so would I still need to bypass the VATS in order to run my custom ignition setup? my plan is to tap into the ignition wires so that I can run push button ignition along with the option to use my key. thanks!

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Not sure I fully understand - do you mean an ignition toggle and a push button start? ACC is a different position in the tumbler that only runs accessories and not the motor. Either way, yes you would have to do this since your key will not be turning passed the hall sensor that sends the "OK" to run to the PCM.

[@danieldestin3850]

I got a Chevy Express 07 I changed the steering column, now the security light is blinking so it's start for 2 sec and stop.

[@gottabsleeved]

You think it be ok to guess the ohms for the resistor?i dont have a ohms reader.so i was think of just getting a resistor around 900 ohms for my 2003 express chevy 4.3 1500 van

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Yes, you'll just have to relearn it

[@gottabsleeved]

@@ChrisBowling92769 Just now i took a regular wire,no resister at all just a thin wire ran from yellow to black,did the 3 security relern waits,started right up.Before the relearns did nothing,the skinning the wires and bridging with a thin wire did the trick,now well see if it starts tomorrow.Thanks for the video

[@gottabsleeved]

didnt cut nothing only skinned the 2 wires then bridge with a thin wire.I got a 2003 express 4.3 my black ground was middle wire on ignition it was brown,other wire yellow to any body with this color wires that needs help,brown to yellow

[@GreylandWebb-wr1jm]

Will that work on a truck with out remote start

[@tensecondbuickgn]

I have an 02 Silverado 4.3L that seems to have a Passlock issue. It starts and then immediately stalls after 2 seconds. It will stay running on carb cleaner so I know I'm on the right track. Have you ever heard of other components failing or is it typically the key cylinder?

[@HBFTimmahh]

i have the exact issue on a 98 Astro 4.3. since it got cold out (*below 45* F) this has been what mine is doing. starts and runs great for 3ish seconds and then is shut down. Ether keeps it running as well. I do NOT get a security light at all. but when it starts and runs as it should, i see the security light come on after the start, and go out with the rest of the security lights. I will be doing this bypass likely tomorrow if I am not working.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Both of you guys sound like a VATS/Passlock/Passkey issue. All the ether and the carb cleaner are doing is just supplying a fuel source and keeping it running after the VATS shuts of the fuel rail/pump.

[@HBFTimmahh]

Chris Bowling Totally Agree, trying to figure out the significance of the NO Flashing Security Light, as I presume it will lead something telltale, like a bad connection at the BCM ect. Not sure where the BCM is located in my 99 Astro. but I am trying to do the resister bypass atm, without much luck I am afraid.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Does the security light ever come on? Most of the BCM's are located under the steering column - but I wouldn't know about that vehicle.

[@HBFTimmahh]

when it starts and then continues to run as normal, yes, it comes on, then goes out with the rest of the dash lights. yesterday, when I was trying different resistors, I had one that when I turned the key on to do the 2nd round of programming, the security light started to flash on me. In my foolish wisdom, I decided to try the 10K resistor, instead of continuing with the relearn procedure. Now am still where i was. but now I am trying to get the right resister back in place that tripped the security light to start blinking. Last saturday, (10 days ago) it started up in the evening and rand fine, at which time i was able to verify the security light indeed came on with the initial start, and went out with the rest of the idiot lights once running. I tried it a few different times that night and the light came on every time it started and ran (4 or 5 times throughout the evening). but the next am, it was cold again, and the security light didnt come on, and it did its start, run for a few seconds and get shut down. I think the fact the light is not coming on, is because it it in full theft lockout. therefore, the light is not tripped as normal... but this is just my presumption at the moment. I know in 97% of Passlock issues. the security light will blink, as I had it doing yesterday with the one resistor.

[@djjairo760]

Hi I have a 2007 suburban, the problem first started this morning. I was attempting to replace my overhead DVD player screen. when i did, i needed to move the truck in the middle of the job, so i got to start it and it starts up and then shuts off just like yours did in the video here. Well i tried to do the 10 minute relearn and 30 minute relearn and no luck. i'd like to bypass the whole theft system, will your procedure here work with my 2007 suburban? it's the new body style like the 2007-2013. Any help would be appreciated.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

djjairo760 I would think that it should be similar. You would have to pull the it apart down there and just compare and see. My guess is they didn't change much. The cure all for most is a relearn or send the PCM off and have it removed. Below is a write up I found for 07.5-10 LMM diesel re-learn - a tad different than the '03-'07 classic. I would think it would be the same for all '07-13 GM Trucks/SUV's: 1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. then 2. Attempt to start the engine (vehicle will not start) then release the key to ON,. Do not turn the key backwards, just release it. 3. Observe the SECURITY (padlock symbol) light. After exactly 10 minutes, it will turn OFF. 4. Turn OFF the ignition and wait 5 seconds 5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. 6. Start the engine. The vehicle has not learned the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password. The vehicle learns the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle. FOLLOWUP: If you have any trouble, common mistakes are not following the procedure exactly, and low battery voltage.

[@cuiivy]

is this applicable to Pass Key 3+ (2007 CTS)?

[@derwindtd]

will this work on a 1998 gmc sierra 4.3 liter

[@kingtimlocs6584]

thanks Chris, that was great help. its definitely been replaced before.

[@amanulol1225]

I have a chev.suburban 1999 it is showing anti-theft symbol?in my ipc cluster ..it cranks but no start.can you help me my problem?

[@dougbobst1066]

I have an 05 Chevy 1500 no security light no power to windows or head unit. Lights come on when key is turned on some gauges go on but others do not. Starts just like yours did then dies a second or two later. Only codes showing is an Evap for emissions. Any ideas?

[@pl747]

ever figure it out? I know a guy that is having the exact same problem.

[@renerogelio8948]

Hey bro i have 2003 chevy express but the 3 wire its difrent color can u tell me which one its the black the lef or the right or which one its the middle wire

[@ChrisBowling92769]

The only difference would be a orange black instead of black or v.v. The other colors are the same. You may be looking at the wrong group of wires

[@rizbu5349]

riz bu 1 second ago Hi, I own a Saturn 2001 L200 I have had the security light flashing for almost two months with everything working in the vehicle including the remote key lock. One month ago I have had problems starting the car and the gas gauge and temperature gauge has shut down including the interior lights A/C, cooling fan and shifting gear, after disconnecting the battery for twenty minutes then everything turns on except the a/c and then shuts down again. It allows to remain starting, but without the gauges and lights,shifting gear and air non working. I want to try to disconnect the security passlock deferhent theft system. If so, after doing so will everything start working normally? My main concern is to get my gauges and cooling fan to work back on again.What is going on is it the BCM and can this be repaired manually?

[@chrisbelts1163]

I bought a 03 avalanche with the ignition busted out of it .it will start by turning the ignition but will die in a second or two .will this fix my truck

[@rushhomehealth4221]

I tried this on my 06 express, the security light is solid. I even got the pcm tuned to disable vats. Still can't get it to start. It cranks, but no start . The security light just solid. tried to relearn so many times, the security light wont shut off. The ignition switch is the only thing I replaced. Please help!

[@jamesstafford8250]

Mr Chris, I'm working on a 2001 GMC Yukon. HeHere's the issue I am having. Replaced the ignition switch because the customer said that the vehicle just stopped. He replaced the fuel pump. But when you turn the key into the on position, I get no turn signals, fuel gauge level, or volt gauge. However, when I take my power probe and jump the ignition switch on a pink wire, the gauges and turn signals all work and the vehicle starts with no issues. I have checked all fuses and relays with volt meter and relay buddy tester and everything checks out. I know that it's not the security system, but it almost seems like I'm loosing power out of the new ignition switch. Could you please give me a little insite as to where my problem may be?? Thanks in advance.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Just my quick thoughts on the easy stuff first - you may have already done this, but... 1. How does the connector look at the ignition switch 2. did you meter the switch from the connector back to where you jumped the pink wire to make sure somehow the wire(s) haven't broke somewhere in between 3. So it turns to the ON position with nothing on the IPC, but does it crank 4. Check all the IGN fuses under the hood - namely the big ones that can appear good but meter bad 5. Do you have a known good ignition switch you can swap in there and check

[@melissamoore5352]

I have a 2007 gmc sierra and when I put key to turn ignition the truck doesn't crank, but the gauges and light work. When I touch relay under the hood with a screw driver it cranks, but won't start. it is showing anti theft symbol, what do you think could be the problem?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Melissa Moore Is it a classic body style (1999-2007) or the newer GMT900 series 2007-2013? I don't know of any factory VATS that cuts out the cranking, but I am not certain on the GMT900 series. If it has an aftermarket alarm system that works with the factory alarm system, that could keep it from cranking. Also be sure and check the crank fuse. Almost all vehicles have a crank fuse. You will also have fuses in an aftermarket alarm system also - probably underneath the steering column if it is equipped. I think the security light will always come on when you first start cranking, so it could be something else other than VATS.

[@mirzaahtisham1721]

hey i want to know about the 2002 jaguar x type anti theft system. my car key resister is not working or broken , i am unable to start it , is there anything i can do to start my car .

[@MrKosmik003]

Having a similar issue I think is attributed to the VATS. I have a remote start installed and I'm finding that my truck (2002 silverado 1500) will start up just fine first start of the morning. However if I turn the vehicle off and grab lunch or whatever and come back an hour or two later, I have to hold the key to ignition for a good 6 to 12 seconds before the truck turns over. This never happens after its been running and I turn it off and immediately turn it back on, only during a 1-4 hour window will this problem exist. Ive checked the starter, starter relay, fuel pump, battery and ignition relay and all are working correctlly. I'm wondering if something could be bad with the bypass module for the remote start or if you think doing this, will fix my problem. So far, I have not been left stranded and it will always start eventually but it's really weird to me that it's only a problem in that 1-4 hour window. Any thoughts?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

MrKosmik003 When you say 6-12 seconds before the truck turns over - does it crank (starter run) for 6-12 seconds and start, or are you saying you turn the key to start and have to hold it in start for 6-12 seconds before the starter engages? And is this happening in remote starts or keyed starts or are we talking a combination? Either way it likely has nothing to do with VATS from a factory standpoint. It could possibly have something to do with the programming in your aftermarket alarm system, but I would think it would do it all the time and be consistent. There are ways to program after market alarm/remote start systems for diesel engine glow plugs, but again that would be something that would happen all the time and it would be consistent in time before crank.

[@MrKosmik003]

let me clarify. while starting, the starter is engaging and the fly wheel is turning. I've even had a buddy try it as i watched and the fan on the engine spins as well. So to clarify, it will crank for 6 to 12 seconds then finally turn over. My remote start is programmed to crank for like 2 seconds so when this does happen, the truck tries to crank 3 times then sends me a tone telling me it didn't turn over. When I saying 6 to 12 seconds, this is after the remote start has failed and is tried with the key. This is very weird to me as it seems to happen in a 15min-3 hour window (after the truck is turned off and left alone)in the cold and a 1 hour to 4 hour window in warmer weather. It's never not turned over eventually, but it's annoying none the less. I've also noticed in colder weather, I can crank it and let off the key like the crank failed and the engine will still turnover a few short seconds later.

[@MrKosmik003]

Also I should add, I've replaced the starter and the fuel filter To no remedy. I've shot the starter relay and ignition relay with a multimeter and both check out. I had the battery checked (which was replaced in the last year) and that checked out fine. I get a voltage reading of 12 when the truck is keyed to accessories and a voltage of 17 once it's turned over which rules out the alternator And I can hear the fuel pump pressurize when keyed to accessories. Also pulled the lock cylinder on the steering column and cleaned in the socket and the cylinder itself and looked for loose wires. Everything checks out.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

MrKosmik003 Ok - so if you take the alarm system out of the equation - in other words: Don't arm the aftermarket system and use your old remote to lock and unlock for a few trips and does it do the same thing? I am just trying to eliminate the aftermarket system causing the problem. What year and did you install the alarm system?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

MrKosmik003 Rather - what year/make is the vehicle

[@Texaca]

hello, thanks for uploading your video. Is this a GM Pass-key III system or a 1 or 2? I think I've seen your video before.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

If you expand the description, there is a tech doc that will explain the 2007'ish and older systems, but the truck in the video is a 2007 classic with PASSKEY 3. There is a PASSKEY 2+ that I believe adds a transponder in the head of the key - this truck does not have that.

[@mjones3938]

Hey Chris.. I finally got a few codes on my truck.. and hope this helps.. they are as follows. P0117 - Engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit, low imput.. P-0480 - Cooling fan 1 control circuit malfunction. P0526 - fan speed sensor circuit.. after a few minutes of testing the truck shut down as it always does and when you turn the key nothing happens as usual.. but the tester could not connect with my truck. it kept asking is key on? I would go through the start up for the tester then it would say. "connecting" but never could connect. it would say to check the connection.. does this help any???? Thanks Myron

[@ChrisBowling92769]

M Jones It sounds like you have a problem with one of the cooling fans. I'm not totally sure on the trigger, but I suspect that a circuit malfunction and fan speed sensor circuit more than likely point to a failing fan, You could try swapping the cooling fan relays, clear the codes and see if those codes come up for cooling fan 2. Or replace the relay for cooling fan 1 with another known good relay and see what happens. Your problem is definitely cooling and you could also have some other problems, but you need to figure out what is up with that fan and we can move on from there.

[@yordanorodriguez3599]

I have a 2009 g5 its has the security lights and won't rank,wha should I do?

[@joycedavis9439]

I PUT A BYPASS PASSKEY WIRE FOR THE IGNITION SYSTEM ON MY 2002 GMC CANYON AND ITS STILL NOT START RIGHT SOMETIME I STILL HAVE TO SIT 20MIN UNTIL IT STARTS SO I NEED TO KNOW WHATS THE PROBLEM

[@aminmusse.777]

hi chris do you know how to by pass anti theft system of citroen jumber 2001,and which color wires i should use thankx,

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Amin, sorry I am GM only - not familiar with any other makes.

[@sammyguereca]

Hey Chris I have a 2006 chevy colorado i5, recently got into an accident(wrecked my front end), air bags deployed, did all my own repairs,, now my passlock system is giving me problems,, it won't start at all, no crank at all,, the lock symbol stays on, doesn't blink,, any info ? In desperate need

[@ChrisBowling92769]

sammyguereca Sorry for the late response - Did you figure it out? No crank is generally something else unless there is an aftermarket alarm system in it.

[@Vinnyandavidthegamers]

I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 that will start and then shut right off. It has an orange flashing security light on and beeps several times after it shuts off. We think it's a security issue but we're not positive.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Sounds like it. Did you read through my write up also? Some helpful information in there also.

[@evaristoortiz1192]

Hello Chris I have a 2004 Yukon SLT 2wd that won't start can you please help?

[@marshmower]

I believe our Bonneville needed a switch. Would enable the anti theft system. 2001 3800. I tried the resistor soldered in. I waited over and over. Someone ended up with a $200 car with hacked dash. Lol

[@dinifire1]

Chris any idea why I wouldn't be getting a ohm reading? I tested the meter also. And if I hook the wire back up the truck starts but it does have a intermentant issue where it will not start in the most incovient places.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

No ohm reading would indicate to me a bad Hall sensor, but can you clarify for me exactly what it is doing? IE starts for 2 seconds and dies, security light flashing, cranks but never fires over.

[@dinifire1]

Yes exactly

[@dinifire1]

Hall sensor meaning in the switch itself?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

+brandon belknap put you a 1000 ohm (1kohm) resistor in there and do the relearn

[@puch7261]

i have an regular key no black cover plain all chrome, and no truck will stay running if i put the yellow wire together..sometimes itll start and sometimes it wont i cant figure it out, because if the yellow wire is cut it shouldnt start but it does so now im lost

[@ChrisBowling92769]

It probably has a bypass in it down by the BCM or somewhere. If the bypass is as old as the truck it may be getting close to tolerance limit because of connections or the resistor itself breaking down. Try searching around from the cut wire down to the BCM and see if you find a resistor or maybe even a bypass module. It may be taped up or have some heat shrink on it. If you find it, check the connections or replace it with the same value. If you don't find anything, make sure you don't have any of those wires or connections breaking down and look for the relearn procedure on google and do that. That may be all it needs.

[@puch7261]

Chris Bowling sorry to bother but it doesnt have anything i checked lastnight,i tried using a different bcm from another truck from same model with same type of motor it wouldnt start at all so i put original one back in it,it seems when it gets cold it doesnt want to start but when its warm out itll start like nothing but that could be me..i was wondering if i got an key with a chip in it would that work...and also what resistor would work, i cant get a proper reading as well..

[@allanrouse7767]

Chris will your bypass work on a 2002 gmc sierra.thanks Allan

[@ChrisBowling92769]

It is very similar to this if not exactly the same

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Only difference is you probably have an orange/black instead of a black

[@stevecarder3581]

04 SILVERADO: Everything works except the keyless entry. It just stopped working. I replace both fob batteries and reprogrammed - no luck. I cannot figure it out. The previous owner installed a autostart that worked with the factory keyless back when it was new, but has worked up till now. Any thoughts advice much appreciated!!

[@ChrisBowling92769]

You've tried this: How to Program Keyless Remote for GM trucks and SUVs - FREE

[@jasonzelisko9822]

I have a Canadian 03' Chevy Impala and the anti-theft system keeps shutting down my car after 30 mins to 60 mins.. Then I have to wait 30 mins for it to start again... Any ideas or videos or links for my Canadian 03' Impala ( disabling the anti-theft device)

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Not real sure about that. I am not familiar with any non-domestic programming of VATS, but unless Canada requires something different, my guess is there are no differences in the programming. Is it idling that long or driving down the road and shuts off? I just don't think any AHJ would require something like that in a VATS to shut down the vehicle in either case - I try and look at like what good what that do given the fact a criminal would get 30-60 minutes of driving? You can try the re-learn procedure and see if that helps. Otherwise, some other common failures that produce your symptoms are: Fuel Pump; Fuel Filter; Vapor lock; overheating; Faulty wiring; crank/cam position sensors to name a few. What kind of codes are you getting?

[@torrischappell7339]

1993 gmc vandura cranks got spark but anti theft is blinking

[@gregory543210]

I'm currently having this issue with my 03 6.6l Sierra Duramax, it wouldn't start at all I cut the yellow wire and measured the ohms it settled at 3.66 on my ohm meter, the only resister I could find close to that ohm in size was a 4.7k ohms and it didn't start then either so I put the yellow wires back together and it started, could the ignition switch be bad or would it be with the key resistance and the bcm? This is all confusing to me, the truck started and then shut off just like in your video, twice but after that it was just cranking no fire, I had fuel at the fuel filter, I do not have an aftermarket remote start system it's all stock, as far as wiring add ons... Need help asap please!

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Yours should be exactly identical to mine in this video. If you already know this, sorry for asking, but make sure what you are reading on your meter is in ohms or k ohm's. Big difference as k represents x1000. Now was it open with the key out? If you are reading ohms with the key out, you may be on the wrong wires possibly. Otherwise, 10% tolerance is probably the limit. So if you meant to say you have 3.66 k ohms, your tolerance would be around +/- 360 ohms. So a 4.7k will be outside the tolerance. If you don't find something close enough, you have to use multiple resistors to get your value (just add them up, and put them in series to get to the value you want). Also - put everything back like it is from factory and try to re-learn it (see drive.google.com/file/d/0B_JbzhLZuS5XOVhqLTREOUlFTDA/edit?usp=sharing) before you start tearing other things apart looking for it. Did you replace the fuel filter recently by any chance?

[@gregory543210]

I tried to relearn the key 6 times before I had torn into anything and my ohm meter has one ohm choice out of the multiple options the meter can do, but the ohm part og the meter switches automatically between k and m ohms depeding on what i have the probes on im assuming and the meter showed open with key out and 3.66k ohms when i had key on, but in order to get the reading i had to slight crank it to get that reading, i had cut the yellow wire and stripped the black one, the wire harness is identical to yours, actually my entire cab is identical to yours... but i didnt understand the ohms with the 3.66 when yours was only .890, so i wasnt exactly sure how to measure the ohms but mine was definitely 3.66k

[@ChrisBowling92769]

***** Ok - so what the meter tells us is when it is 3.66k ohms that translates to 3,660 ohms. 10% would be +/- 366 ohms. So the range of resistance you need is 3,294 to 4,026 ohms. So with the 4.7k you have that puts you at 4,700 ohms that is beyond the threshold. And keep in mind, since mine acts up every now and then I am only guessing at the +/- tolerance of 10%. I re-read your first post and just picked up on you saying yours wouldn't start at all? So was the initial problem a no start at all (basically just cranking) or was it starting and dying a few seconds later?

[@gregory543210]

Chris Bowling Ok so heres how it all started I was at work parked the truck went into work, few minutes later a co worker told me my headlights were on, I have them set in the driver info center (DIC) to shut off when key is turned off, I went out to the truck and the padlock (with lil vehicle behind it) light was on so I started the truck and shut them off manually cause it wouldn't turn them off with the knob when the truck wasn't running, they went off i shut the truck off went back to work 20 mins later right back on, but the padlock light went off like normal after starting it both times, I then unhooked batteries after headlights came on the second time, and let it set the rest of my shift, got off work went home parked in the garage and hour later they came on, no padlock though, messed with the DLR (daytime running light) relay and fuse and Hi- Beam relay and fuse and they went off, next morning went to start truck, and it ran for about 2 minutes then shut off by itself, it had also been super cold so first thought was fuel gelled up, checked filter, made sure it was primed and ended up have an old faithful spurt of fuel all over the place so it wasn't a fuel issue, I also put winterizer/anti-gel in every fill up, so it wasn't that, I went over started it again and did same thing ran for a few minutes then shut off again, and happen to look the padlock light came back, tried starting one last time, no fire just crank and crank and crank, Im assuming the truck thought it was getting stolen by that time, and shut the fuel system off, hooked my scanner up and I was only getting 304psi fuel rail pressure, but the fuel wasn't gelled, and padlock light was still on, so I watched your video and tore into the wiring and found the 3 main wires I cut the yellow, and just peeled the black wire to see copper, I then put the 4.7k ohm resister coiled from the yellow wire to the black wire after reading the resistance in the key, still didn't fire, the padlock light was flashing then, so I took the resister off put the yellow wire back together by just twisting them for experimental purpose, also left the key in the ignition but in off position during this time, let the truck sit and charge the batteries with my charger I have, 30 mins later I went to start it and fired right up like nothing ever happened, so i shut it off and but a butt connector on the yellow wires and liquid taped the shit out of both yellow and black wires and its started fine ever since, This whole occurrence happened 2 weeks ago... not sure if Im living on borrowed time til it does this again or not, I had tried "re-learning" the key 8 different times, different ways each time from all the different ways I had found to do it... Im also wondering if the resister being to big might've reset the BCM in order for my key to work again, Im honestly dumbfounded and wish i could just remove the whole anti theft system in general...

[@ChrisBowling92769]

***** I wouldn't think that VATS would allow it to run for that length of time. Take a look at this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpm0k6tvpshplas. So the different modes produce different results, but not one where it would start up and run for a few minutes and then shut off. I also don't think the resistor you put in would reset anything. So a few things come to my mind: 1) I have had a cheap diesel fuel filter out of the box cause the problem you are describing. What happens is the motor produces a vacuum and starts trying to add more fuel than the filter will allow and your output line starts collapsing until and eventually shut off. Once the motor sits for a bit the lines all equalize and your good to go until the vacuum. And it may be sporadic with different conditions (ie under load; cold weather; hot weather). BUT as I am scratching my head.... I would think this would produce a diagnostic code. 2) The hall sensor is going bad. If you put that 4.7k resistor back in there and do a re-learn with that in there and it it stops altogether, then that is the culprit. 3) The BCM is flaked out. If you are saying the headlights were coming on and stay on unless you start the truck and turn them off - that seems odd. If you do a re-learn with your resistor in there and it doesn't start, that might be a problem also. If you really want the whole VATS thing bypassed, my suggestion is to send your PCM off and get it taken out altogether. That is really the best way. You can find programmers out there that will do it for $75-100 and they can also do any other programming you may want at the same time!

[@TheDennis4321]

i have a 98 bravada every video i see has the same concept but as im trying to locate my ignition i found what to be the three wires im looking for right by the ignition but there seems to be something already there looks to be factory my question is to i put the resister before or after this fuse looking device

[@ChrisBowling92769]

I am not familiar with that vehicle, but if you had a picture or video of it?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Try a Google search on how to relearn the security system for your vehicle. I am not familiar with the 2007 and up.

[@marcoblanco3098]

Damn I need help on my 2001 silverado it won't start just for a second then turns off

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Read the "SHOW MORE" part under the video - lots of good stuff in there to try. Download the "re-learn" procedure from there and try that also. If it is starting a few seconds and dying, it is definitely a VATS issue

[@marcoblanco3098]

I already fixed the problem I did a by pass thanks and your video help a lot

[@ChrisBowling92769]

+Ob Fuscated Yes - I have used the Newrockies and it works fine and it includes the re-learn procedure. If I remember correctly I think it does pretty much the same thing. But yes, I think the best solution in my mind is to get it programmed out.

[@goodstory5890]

I followed your procedure on my 2003 Silverado and it still doesn't crank over or start. Any other suggestions? What if there is no reading when checking the resistance between the yellow and black wires? TIA

[@ChrisBowling92769]

+S Cullen If it doesn't crank, then you have some other issues going on. Oddly enough VATS does not keep the vehicle from cranking. Any other info on when it started doing it or other symptoms prior would be helpful. Do you have an aftermarket alarm system maybe?

[@garystone8218]

i have a problem with my 2000 gmc 5.7 van not starting ITs been cutting off and now it never starts again. IVe replaced everything from a-z so now some say the pu is bad but is it the same wire on my switch that needs cutting loose to disconnect the pass-lock system? what color wire do i cut and what color wire do i tie the other end into? i need help please.i ordered a computer but haven't put it on yet i am at wits end...???i need help now?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Going to have to have a little more detail to help you out on that - like what is A-Z? I don't want to list out the 26 things it could be if you've already done it...right now you're a long way from pass-lock...

[@Geek2freak337]

Will replacing the ignition control switch fix this issue without cutting wires? Or what parts need to be replaced to fix this issue?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

No it will not unless the hall sensor comes with what you buy. It is the hall sensor and software that have issues. When you turn the key cylinder, new or old, it passes the reading to the BCM and the BCM passes it to the PCM.

[@Geek2freak337]

+Chris Bowling I don't get any ohm value using the yellow wire to the pass lock sensor and the orange/black stripe ground wire in my 2002 Silverado 2500hd 6.0l automatic. This year there is no black wire for ground. When I turn the key it reads overload. Other methods online mention using a within range resistor and allow the PCM to learn this resistor as the new resistance. What do you suggest? My new PCM can not relearn my pass lock. I have a no start but cranks and solid security light.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Put a 1k ohm resistor between the orange/black and yellow and try to relearn. The PCM will not relearn anything until it sees something within range. A steady security and crank could be the startup it goes thru, can't remember. But be sure the resistor goes across the cut yellow wire going back to the BCM and the orange black (don't cut the orange black, just strip some insulation back and wrap the resistor lead around it)

[@Geek2freak337]

+Chris Bowling I have found an article that mentioned if the keys are worn and/or the tumbler and/or housing was faulty that a resistance might not be obtainable. A 1000-2200 ohm resistor was recommended. So I found a 2200 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, wired it in and did the relearn. The truck fired right up, I drove for several hours. Pulling over to stop and restart the truck. All successful. I consider my problem fixed. I did replace my PCM due to a few pin outs not receiving voltage/no current. All fine now. Thanks for your video and your advice. A cheap and easy fix to a very common issue. Whether GM will admit it or not. Both dealerships declined knowledge of the issue.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

You may have to relearn it now and again, it is not only the hall sensor but the software as well. And yes, GM will not admit to any of it and I am certain the dealerships have also been notified by GM not to acknowledge anything about it.

[@OlGoodJoe]

Not sure if you're still checking this thread but I want to thank you for the effort to make this video. It helped me to bypass my 2001 Astro van except the black wire in the Astro is orange with black stripe. One thing - the Security continues to say on and flash, is this normal?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

+GoodOlJoe Yes, 2002 and prior are yellow and orange/black. I'm not sure about it staying on though. Did you try a re-learn on it yet.

[@justinwells14]

I have a 2001 silverado had a 4.8 changed the 4.8 to a 5.3 also used the 5.3 harness and ecu, want start; turns over fire it's like it fires off and dies, any help would be awesome.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

It is the BCM from the old truck sending the wrong "password" from the old BCM to the new PCM you installed. You will have to relearn the PCM or have it programmed out.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

This bypass wont help you unless you know what the PCM is wanting to see from the BCM. If you have access to the doner vehicle and the key, you could get that resistance measurement and then possibly do this.

[@VinylToVideo]

Wow problems with a 2007 already? The VATS still worked (when it wanted to) in my '91 until I lost the chip in the key and had to bypass it.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

VinylToVideo This truck had no problems, just had to put that bypass in for a remote start/aftermarket alarm system to work correctly

[@corymartin5663]

I have a 2004 tahoe. do you know how many ohms it requires?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Sorry for the late response, but it does not need a specific reading but rather just something in range. I can't remember what the range is, but if you put 700-1000 in there it should work.

[@jeremyhernandez6282]

Can I put a toggle switch to connect my yellow wires. Would that help instead of this process?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

No - it cannot be 0 ohms which is what a switch will do.

[@barneywarwick9804]

i have a 95 Camaro V6 3.4 im having the same problem what could it be the computer my security system is flashing wen i turn the key over i did everything it said to do in the owners manual still got nothing i got lights and radio

[@0825970]

I have a 02 avalanche the truck has been sitting and when I put in the battery and tried to crank it started for .2 seconds and shut off. won't stay running any longer the security light is on and there is a after market remote start too

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Michael Godfrey this is what you need to do except I think instead of a black wire yours will be orange/black

[@0825970]

Chris Bowling I'll try this when I get home thanks

[@adamwaugh5621]

you think it would be the same on a 2000 Chevy truck I have a dually security light blinks and won't start

[@ChrisBowling92769]

I think GM started using this same setup in the HD trucks prior to swapping over in 2001 to the newer body style. it may be that instead of a black wire you may have an orange black. I'm not totally sure about that, but you could certainly look at the wiring. also, try the relearn procedure listed in the PDF that matches your key.

[@tateclark4171]

Can I just hook the yellow to the black without a resistor?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

No you cannot. It won't work with 0 ohms

[@Apeezeh]

Hey Chris any idea of how to bypass a 2005 malibu anti theft?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Apeezeh Martin I think that's maybe slightly different. If your just trying to get it running, try to relearn it

[@Apeezeh]

Chris Bowling thanks for responding bro. The car is intermittent as hell so I'm trying to just bypass was hoping maybe you've dealt with the system

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Have not dealt with the Malibu - but I bet they relearn the same. I may be wrong, but the cars may have the transponders in the head of the key. You can also go here and might be some useful info for you: www.diy-gm-security.com/

[@Apeezeh]

Man thanks for your time bro

[@tdmoore5016]

I got a 04 Yukon can it be done same way.I have some old radio shack resistors can I just wire them in. The security system is shot

[@tdmoore5016]

This one mechanic done rip me off 700 dollars and still no run

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Sorry - have not been on KZbin lately - yes this will work on the any GM truck/SUV 99-2006 (2007 Classic). If the truck is disabled, I would just sent the ECM to a tuner and get it tuned out. You can find someone to that for $50-100 plus shipping.

[@michaelcadieux3139]

Hey chris i have an 01 blazer similar issue, cranks for a second no start security light on, yellow bcm wire only shows about 1.9 volts any advice?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Michael Cadieux I think the voltage reading is going to be a 5V reference that will fluctuate. But try the the re-learn process first and see if that helps. If not, you would need to find the orange/black (I think that would be the correct color) and cut that yellow wire and try to get an ohm reading. If you can;t get a reading then you could probably get anything around 800 ohms put in there to relearn.

[@michaelcadieux3139]

Yea i have tryed the relearn about 5 times, no luck. Im gonna try the resistor today seems around 400 ohm on mine.. hope it works..

[@michaelcadieux3139]

Im not getting any continuity on the key side tho which worries me..

[@tonycesare7251]

I took apart everything the same as your video, but I'm not getting an ohm reading when I turn on the ignition. Any ideas?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Sorry Tony Cesare for the delayed response - If you are not getting anything, the hall sensor may be bad or the circuit has been open somewhere. Is the vehicle starting?

[@dalegarrett1974]

You turning it all the way to start or just ignition?

[@buddysavage5212]

I have a 2009 Silverado and I tried to install the push start. It didn’t work for whatever reason and I put the wires back. Every thing works but it doesn’t start. I tried programming the key but the security light doesn’t go off in the 10 minute intervals. I tried the steps in this video but not sure how different the wiring is for a 2009 vs 2007. Any thoughts out there?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

The 2009 would be different than this video. Those keys may have transponders, so you may have to get it programmed out of the PCM. Does the key that originally worked have PK3+ stamped on it?

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Passkey III - transponder ignition key The Passkey III anti-theft system uses a transponder inside the head of the ignition key. The exciter inside the ignition lock cylinder energizes this transponder when the ignition switch is turned on. The transponder transmits a unique signature to the theft deterrent control module. If the key signature transmitted is acceptable to the theft deterrent control module, the theft deterrent control module will transmit fuel enable password to the PCM. If the fuel enable password is correct, the PCM will start the vehicle. To perform a relearn on a Passkey III system, make sure there is a fully charged battery in the vehicle. The battery will be used for 30 minutes without the alternator available for charging. Connect a battery charger to the battery to ensure power is available while programming. When performing this relearn, all previously learned keys will be erased. Additional keys may be relearned immediately after the first key has been learned by inserting the additional key and turning the ignition switch to on within 10 seconds of removing the previously learned key. 1. Insert a master key (black head) into the ignition switch. 2. Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and stay on. 3. Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off. 4. Turn key to the “OFF” position for 5 seconds. 5. Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and stay on. 6. Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off. 7. Turn key to the “OFF” position for 5 seconds. 8. Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and stay on. 9. Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off. 10. Turn key to the “OFF” position. The key transponder information will be learned on the next start cycle. 11. Start the vehicle. If the vehicle starts and runs normally, the relearn is complete. If additional keys need to be relearned: 12. Turn the key to the “OFF” position. 13. Insert the next key to be learned. Turn the key to the “ON” position within 10 seconds of removing the previously used key. 14. Wait for security light to turn off. It should happen fairly quickly. You may not notice the lamp, as the transponder value will be learned immediately 15. Repeat steps 12 through 14 for any additional keys.

[@buddysavage5212]

@@ChrisBowling92769 thank you for the reply. When I complete the first 10 minutes the light never turns off. I have a full battery.

[@buddysavage5212]

@@ChrisBowling92769 it doesn’t appear to have PK3+ stamped on it.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

@@buddysavage5212 So did it try to relearn with the push start? And was it starting with that key before you tried to install a push start? Is the truck tuned? I'm sure you have but check your wiring and make sure nothing is coming loose in what you did or even out of the connectors possibly. If it was working before and it didn't relearn with the push start, it should work with everything back.

[@familylife153]

hi i purchased an alarm/remote start for my GMC Suburban 99 do I need the bypass module or can I use this to start the truck. thanks in advanced

[@ChrisBowling92769]

I don't think this would apply. you may have to do a bypass, but I do not think this is the same setup as 99.

[@ChrisBowling92769]

Not sure if you figured this out yet, but was looking at one the other day and it should be very similar, however instead of a black wire you may have an orange/black

[@CharlesLewis-l8q]

I tore my ignition out because it locked up how do I bypass my anti theft without a key