GMC Motorhome 13 (progress update)

[@do.it.better]

Mike - A few comments. If you didn’t already know the font and rear caps are made of SMC, you will need an epoxy based repair product. I used Total Boat 2:1 and 1708 fiberglass mesh. Removing the windshields for me was the only way I could get the dash out. Don’t necessarily recommend it as it is brittle but if you get that 2:1 epoxy…you can repair anything that breaks. You might want to consider new windshields. As I understand it…when you try to install an old windshield it has a higher possibility to crack. No matter what you do, I would suggest new rubber.. Also ask Jim B about how to reinstall the windshield. When I spoke with Jim B and Jim K they both recommended getting a new compressor and ditch the A6. Jim K has a nice set up. He actually supplies everything in a kit that includes a new bracket and hoses. I think the compressor is a Saden. It will make cold air. You may have seen a video of the Heating/AC set up that Jason talked about that the Co-Op is doing. I am 1/2 through that install. It is a very nice design. I love the brackets that you designed and thank you for your contribution to the GMC community Doing really good work. Looking forward to your next video

[@martinnorwood378]

Another point about the body mounts, I used horse mat material from Tractor supply. They sell two thicknesses 1/2” & 3/4” the 1/2” worked great for my 1976 coach. Also I want to mention I used the Vintage Air systems for my coach, the (short pack) in the front and an additional unit ( monster trunk unit ) in the back of the coach to help cool that area.

[@Mike_Classic_Cars-GMCMotorhome]

Do they both run off the same compressor?

[@martinnorwood378]

Hey Mike, love your videos…very interesting. FYI I pulled my windshields and reinstalled them. I had never done any kind of windshield job before therefore I was really nervous about doing it. However I was interested in saving the $500 a shop would charge me to do the job. Long story short it went well with the help of a friend, I took my time and lots of soapy water. I was doing it outside so a warm day helped too.

[@Mike_Classic_Cars-GMCMotorhome]

Thanks for the boost of confidence. How did you store them when they were out?

[@martinnorwood378]

@@Mike_Classic_Cars-GMCMotorhome while they were out, I cut up strips of the old gasket to protect the edges and taped them onto the vulnerable areas then stored them vertically nested together with moving pads. I put them in my shed far from where I was working or anyone else could harm them.

[@bikertrash9318]

Mike, I am loving the content!!!! Could you post the dimensions of the brackets you made, I am going to do something similar because my 73' has the similar sag. Thank you for the great videos!

[@Mike_Classic_Cars-GMCMotorhome]

Thanks, I will soon I have not drawn them up yet.

[@blackhat4968]

I think the cross beam floor supports are bent. (45 years of the body weight causing them to sag on the ends) I think if you can get the ends close (1/4"? below level) that once you bolt/screw the marine grade plywood floors down it will do even more to level it out. I also recall a recent Jim Bounds video (6-9 months ago?) Where Jim was talking about some new 1" composite boards (stronger and more expensive) that they were recommending for floorboards if viewers had the budget.

[@Mike_Classic_Cars-GMCMotorhome]

I think you are right, plan is to finish installing the floor braces then install the 1st vertical step board to straighten the front cross beam. Then install the forward floor board. The Coosaboard Jim spoke about is ultra expensive ($500) a sheet.

[@blackhat4968]

@@Mike_Classic_Cars-GMCMotorhome Yep. $. That's about what I remembered.