Goal Zero Hack - Alternator Charging using Victron Orion DC-DC Converter

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hack your Goal Zero! Easy to setup Victron DC charger will power your Yeti lithium battery and also other specific battery packs from different manufacturers using this method. Tell us what you think in the comments below. Did this help you?

[@zaida500]

After reading many reviews and watching a lot of videos, I chose this option for my first backup power station. kzbin.infoUgkxHypYDKHAN93Lp2RQpfvU_ksc70wJ00pt I was between this and a larger option that could power a wider range of items, but the price/size/capacity blend seemed right for this unit. Hasn't gotten a ton of use yet, but the build quality is solid and it charges fine via the Rockpals solar panel I purchased to pair with it. One thing to note is that the screen is optimized for a top down viewing angle, which makes sense, but this means it washes out at other angles - especially low angles. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a better option for the display could be used to provide wider viewing angles.

[@chipmeister111]

Awesome, thanx for showing me your setup. It's amazing the things we can do now with all of these components. I believe that the humming that you're hearing is due to the fact that you have the isolated version of this charger which needs the negative wiring to its own isolated chassis ground and not to your vehicle's battery negative.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks for watching Chip, glad you enjoyed it! Interesting point about the hum. Where should I connect the negative wire to instead? Directly to the seat pedestal or any other particular spot on the Sprinter?

[@prestoneprice]

Hey guys! The humming is due to the PWM charger in the yeti ramping up. It is fairly low frequency. Once it knows it can expect all the available power from the Orion, it fully opens, and the humming goes away. Great video, and great implementation!

[@scmreport2457]

@@prestoneprice I would chose any brand except zero. If your unit fails and you respectfully contact them they hang up

[@scmreport2457]

I lost $8,000 dollars buying their brand. It was great while it worked.

[@prestoneprice]

@@scmreport2457 That is strange. Full disclosure, I do work for them, so let me know your story and I would love to help sort it out.

[@1hjehje]

This is excellent information and you did a great job of explaining the setup and operation. Thank you for the video!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thank you for the kind words Harold - very much appreciated!

[@_Akicita_]

First - thank you so much for this informative video. I had been waiting several months for GZ to restock the Vehicle Charging kit to install on my 2020 Chevy Colorado ZR2 Bison backcountry rig and then I ran across your video. I power my AluCab camper and equipment with the Goal Zero Yeti 1000 and have been charging it through the GZ MPPT controller and single 160-watt solar panel. After watching your video I purchased the same Orion 12/24-15 dc-dc charger as you featured in your video. After wiring the controller and plugging it into the PWM controller I was successful at getting 300-370 watts of input charging power. I am however struggling to determine if I have the Input Voltage Lockout set correctly. My Colorado ZR2 Bison has a smart generator that modulates its output power through the ECM, BCM, and various accessory or light usages from 12.1 volts to 14.5 volts under normal engine operation and voltage draw. As I observe the voltage meter on my dash the wide range of voltage happens very randomly. I started setting my Orion to the same settings as yours but with the wide range of voltage output to it, it would cycle on and off erratically. I am considering setting the voltage lockout values to 12.5 and 12.7 but would like your thoughts on this before doing so. Thank you in advance for any advice you can give and thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experience with us all.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks very much for your kind words - very glad the video helped! Assuming you have the Orion connected directly to your starter battery terminals, and the alternator is also connected to your starter battery terminals. Maybe try this: With engine off, open the VictronConnect app and observe the input voltage, then turn on the engine and then see what the voltage is at normal idle. There should be a difference, and it should not go below the initial voltage value you observed when the engine was off. Each vehicle's alternator will have different values of voltage output, so it's quite possible to have yours set to 12.5 and 12.7V. After driving for a while, stop, turn off the engine, let things settle a bit, then check the VictronConnect app for the current input voltage (the resting state of your battery). If it's higher than 12.7V, then adjust the lockout values to 12.8v to 13.0V (for instance). You will have to experiment a bit. You can also try to fully charge your battery (I use the Victron IP65 12V/15A charger), and then see what the resting voltage is at after the charge is complete. Alternators will rarely top-up the voltage of your starter battery. Hope that helps. If I think of anything else, I'll update this. If anybody else has some feedback to share that will help too. Let us know the outcome. Thanks, and have a great day!

[@_Akicita_]

​@@sprinterdiscovery Yes, I wired it directly to my battery positive and negative terminals using 8 AWG wires and protected it with a 60 amp inline fuse. . . and your answer makes complete sense because the Orion is reading the battery voltage, not the alternator / generator output voltage - correct? If so - I will take it for a drive to ensure the starting battery is fully charged then look at the "resting voltage" of the battery after it settles. Thank you!!!

[@colindgrant]

Thanks for the detail, and for talking through the considerations and approach you took.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks Colin!

[@owenparker6651]

If you want to be really safe with regards to not killing your starter battery by mistake, add an ignition control wire so your charger will not turn on unless the motor is running... the Victron comes with a little green connection specifically for this, I believe... Thanks very much for sharing your yeti hack...

[@tonyspad1363]

I have been looking for a link to buy this ignition control switch but can’t find it anywhere . Any link? Thanks

[@sprinterdiscovery]

amzn.to/3JKz7ea There's lots to choose from, and these seem very inexpensive, and you get a 5 pack for that price. You can then wire it up with thin gauge wire to the green plug on the Victron. Hope this helps!

[@owenparker6651]

@@tonyspad1363 Everywhere I have seen people ask this question, the answer was the same. Contact Victron customer service... It comes with the dc to dc charger as a rule...

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

It’s only powered when the engine is running, he doesn’t have it hooked to a hot wire continuously.

[@heyimrooney]

Could you use the Orion 12 | 12 - 18 isolated converter for this setup?

[@schwepsss]

Hi, thanks for the video. May I ask why don't you use the orion-tr on charger mode? If it is not a special requirment of your Yeti setup, orion dc dc charger can handle necessary bulk/absorption/float voltage and amp values on charger mode. On power supply mode, fixed V/A is used as far as I know.

[@sailingmsmalachite1503]

Hi there I have the ecoflow delta max 2 I’ve just fitted Orión dc to dc 12/12-30 and I’m only getting 221 watts ??not the 340 😢 also it it cut out and comes on and cut out and so on Any help would be great full 👍 😊

[@rojames30]

works good on yeti 3000x. getting around 380watts. i have the victron set at 21v

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Awesome! Thanks for confirming.

[@moroccobama]

I thought the car alternator sends far more amps than that Orion is rated for? Am I mistaken? I’m trying to do this myself

[@1LOCOgato]

@@moroccobama Hello, the Victron is wired to the battery terminal . Most batteries puts out a little more than 12 volts. Different vehicles have different alternators which put out different outputs to the starter battery. The Victron steps up the incoming voltage from the engine battery and maintains it to your house battery. Hope this helps.

[@jasonhayes2778]

Did you ever increase your 21v higher since the high power charging import can handle 14-50V? I see the max output voltage adjust range is 20-30V.

[@joeblow1942]

Do you know if this would work with an Ecoflow Delta 1300 “solar generator”?

[@Stucrompton1]

Hello buddy thanks for a great video. I did exactly the same as you did but my unit is only producing 205 watts. I have a vw transporter 6.1 and leisure battery under passenger side. Any thoughts as to why it’s not 350w?

[@Stucrompton1]

Any thoughts buddy I’m lost here

[@michaellynn3928]

I'm considering doing something similar with my Ecoflow power station. Has it held up two years later?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Still going very strong after these few years now!

[@michaellynn3928]

Thank you!

[@myroncho1897]

Thanks for video. By the way why you use 12/24-15 charger also can I charge to Eco Flow Delta 1300. Thanks

[@bosshog1062]

I HAVE THE BLUETTI AC 200 MAX. DO YOU RECOMMEND THIS VICTRON OR COULD I DO A STEP UP?

[@outbacklife2025]

where do u get the premade cable that connects to the anderson jack in the yeti 1500x i got a kia soul and a yeti 1500x i got the victron and the 10 foot cable but there is one other cable that was pre made? what is thats called

[@benjaminalamilla8226]

Thanks for making this video, I really appreciate the info as this is what I plan on doing with my GZ 3000. Quick question, could you show how you connected the Victron to your battery, this is the part that I am unclear on. Thanks!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Very glad you enjoyed it Benjamin! I'll create a second video for that soon. In my Sprinter, the starter battery is under my feet. I took out the flooring, opened up the metal cover to gain access to the battery. I had 8AWG cable on one end with the cable lugs connected, and the other end just bare stranded wire. The cable lugs get connected straight into the connectors on the battery terminals for both positive and negative. The other end I inserted into the Victron battery Input and screwed both the positive and negative into their respective places. Ideally I would have done the start to finish install to show everybody, but I didn't do it 6 months ago. Hopefully this helps guide you. I'm not good at electrical but I managed to figure it out. Whew! 😁😁😁 All the best with your GZ 3000. That's a beautiful battery unit. I think you'll be very happy with it. Do update us when you got it all connected and working. Let us know how it went. Take care, and thanks for watching!!!

[@outbacklife2025]

i just got the yeti 1500x so I should buy this Victron and the cables than I can charge using my Kia Souls alternator and car battery , have steady power anytime , how do u know if your in car mode like they yeti kit

[@jayf110]

Did the older Yeti 1000 have a lower rating for charging? Looking at the Goal Zero website, it states that the High Power Charge Port can handle 14-50V up to 50A. Is there some other limiting factor that I'm missing?

[@edspining44]

Did you use any fuses on the wire from victron?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Perhaps I should have, but didn't. So far so good, still going strong!

[@seattleecho]

Hi ! Thank you for video. I have Eco Flow Delta 1300. Can I use 12/23-15 or 12/12-30 model Thanks

[@cyndigarrett1373]

How can I make this charge the Yeti tanks, just use a 8mm instead of the anderson?

[@motobiker-art]

Thanks for video. I have the Goal Zero 3000X and have the Victron Orion 12 volt to 12 volt DC to DC charger that is only 18 amps (220 watts) as I have a smaller alternator that is only 105 amps. The default is 14.2 volts output on the lithium battery standard setting. Like you said it didn't work at first. Since the input on my GOAL ZERO unit is a low as 14 volt input on the MPPT I tried a 15 volt setting and it did turn on and charge. I set it as low as 14.3 volts and it stayed on charging. I set it back to 14.2 volts and it turned off. Bumped it back to 14.3 volts and again it went back on to charge. So the 12 volt to 12 volt DC to DC charger did work for me on the 14.3 volt setting. The TR SMART charger was about $163 as it has less output than the 30 amp unit but since my alternator was only 105 amps used the smaller unit. I liked the 18 amp also as it is the same output 220 watts as the plug in ac charger which is also 220 watts. I tried it both in charger mode and power mode. I left it in charger mode as it will shut off if the starter battery gets to low and lets the starter battery charge back up to continue to charge again. This is what I tried for a smaller 105 watt alternator. The screen readout did fluctuate alot when charging near full as alternator is more of a pulse. Battery was near full though at 95%. Will have to try it when battery gets to the 50% area.

[@joeblow1942]

Any reason why you didn’t choose the 30 amp model instead?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Joe, the Ecoflow 1300 should work with this Victron model. I chose this one because it produces enough voltage (20V to 22V) that the Yeti will accept. Anything lower and it won't charge properly. Best wishes with your build! Our Victron Orion has been working flawlessly for a year now. No need for solar panels on our roof - keeping our Sprinter van totally stealth!

[@JMX246]

Question - when would you use isolated VS non isolated - I see both models on Amazon - thanks - good vide

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Isolated allowed us to not ground our unit to the van. It's totally independent

[@cdnjeepoverland]

I have the same question. Would it matter if it used a common ground???

[@Kpb1634]

I did some more research and you can connect the Victron Orion right to the ec8 ports in the module compartment and don’t need to buy the mppt charger. The ec8 port can handle 30 amp 14-22v

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Awesome! The Orion will need to be placed in charger mode instead of power supply mode.

[@sadbrains262]

Wow! Does it manage the input the same as the front anderson connectors? GoalZero claims 40% increase with their proprietary mppt.

[@Kpb1634]

@@sadbrains262 I’m not sure I think so, it won’t show up on the display screen though but will charge the battery. Will prowse has a video where he connects a solar charge controller to the yeti through the ec8 ports and it works.

[@matthewmartin9540]

How can I run both the victron external mppt and the victron Orion and have one or both charge the tanks intelligently without me swapping cables?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@matthewmartin9540 A lot of people are asking similar questions about integrating the Yeti Tanks and charging them. I don't have the tank, so i can't experiment. Do you happen to know the charging parameters for the tank battery?

[@dominic81634]

Hi there, thank you for the informative video. Quick question if you don't mind: Why not simply use the Yeti 12V Car Charging Cable?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

The Yeti 12V car charging cable only supports a maximum of 120W of power, whereas the Victron Orion solution will fast charge at 360W (3x faster charging). Thanks for watching!

[@gandalf1010]

Heyho! Thx for sour video! I tested this setup with a 12/12 30 victron orion and a yeti 1500x and it works I also build a setup to charge my yeti via victron mppt 100/20 and it works great! Very high input on both sides. Thank you for this video !

[@pijanysamuraj]

hey, do you know if powerstation Aferiy P210 I can charge with my 1500W car inventer . like plug an inventer to car battery and then inventer to powerstation thru AC plug. I would be very thankful for any info

[@jtcworld3605]

Great Hack. I have the same 1000 but only 2 years old. Can you use the 10 amp model instead of the 15? Thank you.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks! I'm sure you can use the 10A version of the Orion 12/24-10A but it would just charge slower at 240W input. Just wondering, what benefits would the lower amperage bring for you? Thanks for watching and leaving a comment here! Much appreciated!!😊

[@f.k.6151]

Thank you for the video. Are you concerned with how much current the Victron is drawing from your vehicle's battery? Did you need to put in a fuse in between the device and your vehicle battery?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi thanks for watching! No concern whatsoever. In terms of the fuse, this particular model of the Orion has an inbuilt fuse. A couple others have posted that a fuse needs to be closer to the battery, but it's something I haven't done.

[@erictittle7531]

Great video! Would this work with any of the ecoflow solar batteries via the XTC input connector?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hey thanks! It's possible so long as it can accept between 20-24v

[@erictittle7531]

@Sprinter Discovery is this what I should be looking for: Input Battery Voltage Range: 8V- 16VDC?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

This is the Victron Orion I would use for your setup. amzn.to/3uy687b It's 12v to 12v output and it's a very stable voltage coming from the alternator via the Orion. You could adjust the voltage in the VictronConnect app to the highest supported and it should work very well.

[@shellynguyen6920]

This is awesome, I have the same goal zero 1000 and I am from Raincouver as well!🌧. My question is answered below about how the victron is connected to the battery. Right now I have an extra 100ah lithium battery that charges the goal zero through the 8mm via alligator clamp. Wondering if the victron is needed, is it to protect the goal zero? Can I test it out first without the victron, connect the goal zero directly to the battery? I also have the mppt and solar panels. I didn’t know that the goal zero can be charged so quickly by the alternator until watching you video. Can it be charged while the engine is running instead of driving? Because we tend to run out of batteries by night time and parked. Would love to hear your input. Thanks 😊

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Shelly (and fellow Raincouverite)! The Victron protects your alternator from damage, and also upconverts the 12V over to a configured 20V-22V. It provides for a steady voltage going to your Goal Zero. Most newer alternators provide a variable amount of voltage as you drive. I don't recommend that you connect to the car battery directly. It charges so quickly since the voltage is high (22V vs 12V) and the amperage output is also high at 15A which the Goal Zero Anderson input is able to handle. With this Victron setup, so long as your engine is running (parked and engine running, or driving), you're able to charge your Goal Zero. I hope this helps and answers your questions 😃. Since you're local, feel free to contact me via the email address in my About page here on KZbin and I can personally show you our setup. All the best! Thanks for watching!!

[@22re53]

Awesome hack!!! Thank you! I have the older Yeti 1250 with the AGM battery also daisy chained to another battery for more juice, very heavy but it’s been running great for my set up for years. Until I can go lithium would this hack work for me? I’m thinking ahead w the victron until I upgrade? Hope to hear from you

[@sprinterdiscovery]

For your Yeti 1250, you would need this version of the Orion: amzn.to/3jnUfeQ since the technical specs say - High Power charging port (input): 16-48V, up to 20A (320W max)

[@22re53]

@@sprinterdiscovery thank you for the swift reply and moreso your knowledge! Order is in this will help me so much. Awesome

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Great! Just make sure you get the 10Amp version and not the 15Amp version of the Orion. Hope that helps.

[@kayengvang342]

Great video I have a question, where did you ground the black wire?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks! Since this version of the Orion is ISOLATED, the black wire is attached to the negative terminal of the starter battery. The output pair (negative and positive) wires then connect to the Yeti. Simple, and does not intefere with the van electronics at all. :-) Its been super safe and reliable so far for 1.5 years.

[@AndrewClough604]

Awesome setup. I was surprised to hear the bit about internal fusing. Where did you see the Orion was internally fused? From what I have read fuses are required on both positive cables.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Andrew - Thanks for watching! The Victron Isolated Orion has an input fuse for the 12V and 24V. Take a look in the PDF specs here, near the second photo of the Orion you'll see they say "Input fuse (not replaceable)On 12V and 24V input models only" www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Orion-Tr-DC-DC-converters-isolated-100-250-400W-EN.pdf Now I wonder if I need an actual fuse on the output positive wire, or will the Goal Zero PWM side take care of any fusing? Do you know? Hope that helps!

[@joshatkins6533]

Fuses are always required. They are to protect the cables not the appliance. If it shorts out you have full alternator power able to short straight to earth. Really good way to set your van on fire.

[@rickcrane3943]

@@joshatkins6533 think you are right.

[@cyclemoto8744]

Curious to understand why you opted for the 15a Orion instead of the 30a? Also, best practice requires a fuse at the battery regardless of the Orion being internally fused. Thanks for the content. Cheers

[@sprinterdiscovery]

The 12V to 24V Victron Orion only comes in 15A at 24V there is no 30A version. When I measure the amps coming out of the Victron it's 30A or 360W. I agree with you, as a few others have suggested as well, I need a fuse at the battery connection as best practice. Thanks for watching!

[@prestoneprice]

Should also be noted that the GZ Yeti has a fuse internally that will not require a fuse at the battery.

[@lukefarmer5391]

All true but we all need to remember the reason to fuse is to protect the wire not the device. If a wire from the battery were to short or overload we want the fuse to blow not the wire to catch fire. So always fuse as close to the battery as possible. I love Blueseas battery post fuses. It fuses right at the battery post.

[@Steveteras]

​how come orion can put out 30amps when it says 15 amps on it? I am confused.

[@donnaashenberg2718]

@@lukefarmer5391 Do you have a link to what you would recommend purchasing for the blueseas battery post fuse? Thanks!

[@lynnfagerstrom7197]

Hey, Did you install a fuse/ breaker between the van battery and the Victron, and did you run the victron to your fuse box and then to goal zero? I didn’t, I’m wondering if I need to before my first trip… Thanks!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hey Lynn - we haven't, and so far so good. Enjoy your first trip!

[@lynnfagerstrom7197]

Thanks Sprinter Discovery! I appreciate the input! Happy trails!!

[@ErnestodelaHoz]

Will this hack work with the newer Goal Zero 3000X or 6000X? I like that idea better than going with the Yeti Link Integration Link

[@pinay56]

Another question; how do you hook it up to charge the Yeti? All you've managed to do is confuse, I'd like to see how you hooked it up to a yeti..

[@lynnfagerstrom7197]

Look at 1:22 on the video, he shows the power pole cable he used

[@biehpham8323]

Does it know when the engine is on or off? Or did tpu have to connect ot to the fuse box?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Both positive and negative wires are connected to the starter battery, and those go directly to the Orion. It senses the voltage provided by the alternator. If the voltage is less than 13v or so, the engine is off.

[@michaelgraham8579]

Really helpful. Have 1500x and not getting enough recharge from sun w single 100w panel. This vid is almost year old. What would you change to reflect the updated technology. I do need to wire to main battery or alternator. Do not have dedicated start battery, just single bat for gas 8.1 liter GM engine. Also would like to combine solar and this. Can just switch plugs depending upon whether driving.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks Michael! More than a year later, not much I'd change. It's our daily driver, so every time we go out our Yeti is fully charged. For your connection, just connect directly to your single battery which is charged by your alternator. It would be simple to just disconnect the solar, plug in the Orion charger while driving, then plug the solar back in when parked for a while in your van. This setup has been ultra-reliable over the past year. Many others have emailed me with their success stories after they installed this on the Goal Zero and a couple other brands. Best wishes on your build!

[@michaelgraham8579]

And again, thanks. I am concerned where to mount the Victron. I assume it should be in the cabin and not under hood.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Definitely you'll need to protect it within the cabin, and ensure that ports where the wires are attached are facing downwards. According to the manual www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-Orion-Tr-Smart-Charger-Isolated-EN-NL-FR-DE-ES-SE-IT-.pdf the biggest size wire is AWG6 at the terminals. So if you have a long run from the engine compartment, use that or AWG8 wire (which I'm using).

[@frankvanderlinden8794]

I have the Ecoflow Delta max (EU version). A similar setup should work for this as well? I was thinking what would be the best option, using a dc/dc charger with the solar input (800W, 11-100V, 10 amp) or using an inverter connected to my vehicle battery with the ac power input (1800W, 15 amp) on the Ecoflow. Any thoughts on this?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Frank - for your model, the Solar Charging Input is 800W Max, 11-100V, 10A. I would suggest using the Victron Tr-Smart Isolated 12/24-10 DC-DC Charger - amzn.to/32xGmFp That provides you 24V which is within the range of 11-100V, and matches the maximum of 10A input into your EcoFlow. That will definitely work as you drive your vehicle. You could also use an inverter like the Victron Phoenix 1200V amzn.to/3H2eiJk but with the appropriate plug for your country of course. The data sheet from Victron is here: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Phoenix-Inverter-VE.Direct-250VA-1200VA-EN.pdf Merry Christmas, and enjoy the weekend!

[@vicc6744]

does this have a fan in it?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

no fan

[@thomasmalenich6315]

Does this put any strain on your alernator?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

No strain on the Sprinter alternator. Perhaps with other vehicles with much lower amp output it might though. What kind of vehicle do you have and what soecs for the alternator?

[@thomasmalenich6315]

@@sprinterdiscovery Ram promaster 3500

[@lyndon5478]

Is there a size number or model I need to look for for the anderson connector? I’m trying to get all the supplies needed to make the charger you made. I’m new to this but excited to try it thanks.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi @lyndon First of all, thanks very much for watching and leaving your comment here! I purchased my cable on Vancouver Island here in Canada, and the site is called modernoutpost.com and you can email them requesting the part that you need. You can also go to the powerwerx.com website and search for "goal zero" and you'll see they can make custom cables for you too. If you want to go the DIY route and make your own cable, you'll need 10AWG stranded copper wire, a red and a black Anderson plug for 45A metal inserts. I think you need a crimp tool too. That's the reason I purchased it premade - I don't have all the parts and tools. You can use lower gauge wire too, but it all depends on the distance from the Victron Orion to the Yeti.

[@k7simracing920]

Hi, thanks for sharing. I do have a couple questions : why à 12/24 orion vs a 12/12 orion model? Also, you pick-up a 15 amps, could it handle a 30 amps orion? I guess it depends on the yeti model?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi! Thanks for watching! The 12/12 Victron is borderline in terms of the minimum voltage required by the Yeti 1000, hence why I chose the 12/24 model of the Orion. It actually puts out 30A as measured by an ampmeter. As the ambient temperature rises, the amps actually decrease. Hope that helps!

[@N2UPROD]

I believe the 12/12 is designed for 12 v going into 12v And the 12/24 is a step up power supply meaning it’s 12v through 24v but obviously you can adjust through Bluetooth and the 15 is the max Amps it puts out

[@snosrfr71]

Nice. Can you use this to chain LiPo batts to the yeti, or do the differing chemistries prevent this?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Chuck - I have tested my AGM starter battery using my alternator on and off. So with a 12V LiPo (Lithium Polymer) connected to the Victron Orion which connects to the Yeti, it *should* be possible so long as the VictronConnect lock and unlock settings are set appropriately - since there is no alternator involved in your use case. In order to prevent your LiPo battery (or AGM/LiFePo/etc) from draining completely, I would recommend to purchase a Victron Smart Battery Protect (Bluetooth) amzn.to/3nsX6Eh and put that in front of the battery (between the battery and the Orion). That way you can program it to stop charging the Yeti when the battery is low and not completely drained to zero. I just looked at the VictronConnect settings, and they only have a setting for normal batteries and Lion batteries - so you'd have to test and see if LiPo will connect to the Smart Battery Protect. I think you can have different battery chemistries (like AGM or LiFePo) connected to the Orion which can then charge the Yeti. Hope this helps - Thanks for watching!

[@bobhackworth8781]

Do I just connect this Victron unit to the starter battery OR is it necessary to connect instead to the actual alternator? I trying to charge my Goal Zero 1500 while the van is running, no solar.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Directly to your starter battery. :-)

[@bradsparling5037]

I am looking for the 8 gauge cable with goal zero anderson adapter on the end. I cant find it anywhere. I need about 15 feet. Can you help?!! Thx.

[@bradsparling5037]

I have a GZero 1500x

[@sprinterdiscovery]

I think you'll need to make it yourself, so you need to buy the crimpers and connectors and cables .... Or find somebody that can create it for you.

[@PoncePappas-zo1ot]

I’m considering buying one of those but I need to know if I can charge 12 V batteries and 24 V batteries with that device off of a 12 V van

[@robertmann9386]

Excellent, thank you.

[@davidjondoh8671]

I like your set-up but I'm slightly confused how the converter is connected to your battery. How do you connect to your battery so that it will only provide power while the ignition is on?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks! Simply connect the positive and negative to the battery terminals, then in the VictronConnect app you tell it when to turn on based on the alternator voltage. If your van is running, the alternator is creating high voltage, like 13.5V. The converter then turns on. If it's below that value, the converter doesn't use any voltage. So if you vehicle is off, no voltage is created by the alternator, and the converter will not drain your battery. We've had this working in our Sprinter van for over a year now, and it's been rock solid and totally awesome at charging our Goal Zero battery pack! We still don't have any solar on the van. You'll love it! 👍

[@davidjondoh8671]

@@sprinterdiscovery Thanks for the rapid response. This is a great option and will help to keep my "solar generator" charged during our increasingly frequent power outages here in California.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@davidjondoh8671 Glad it helped Jon! Up here in Canada we encounter a lot of cloud and rain outside of summer. Alternator charging works so well.

[@brucebugbee6604]

I do something similar to charge my Titan in my RV from the truck alternator using the Victron Orion DC-DC charger. I can directly connect to the Titan's 24 VDC battery bus by plugging the charger output into the external battery port on the Titan without using up a solar charger controller port.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

That's great to know, thanks for sharing this info! I've been really pleased with the Victron Orion's performance. And... Thanks very much for watching and leaving a comment. Much appreciated!

[@JoseMTBs]

Hi there, thanks for your detailed video. I just finished this project on my PM with the GZ Yeti 1400. Everything is working great! I have a 70 amp fuse at the starter battery that was unused, but no fuse near the Yeti. Do you have any info on whether that's necessary? Thanks again for this great video.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi thanks for watching! It probably isn't necessary, but probably won't hurt to put one in. I don't think solar panels have fuses inline, and they would normally just connect into the Yeti. This setup with the Victron Orion simply mimics a solar panel, and I believe all the protection would be built into the Yeti itself. I've been running this setup for nearly a year, and zero issues so far. Thanks for letting us know it's working great for you as well. I've had many others email me directly telling me their setup also works great. No need for solar! Have a great day!

[@planetmikeus]

Any thoughts on how to increase the capacity of the Yeti by adding another lithium battery? Thanks.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

If you get the expansion module for the Yeti, that can accept up to 30V coming into the Anderson port. WIth a 24V battery, you could connect that to the Anderson port. You'd then be able to charge the 24V battery using the same Orion that you purchased earlier, and connect that to the 24V battery, but put the Orion into battery charger mode instead of power supply mode. I have not tested this yet, but if you think it's viable, try it out and let us know. Thanks!

[@garygiles63]

Thanks for sharing, great solution

[@todd.parker]

This is great. Nice video!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks my friend!

[@uhjyuff2095]

@@sprinterdiscovery Fantastic video! From my testing the Goal zero MPPT module stops charging the goal zero when its input voltage drops below 13.2 volts just like your victron charger! I think the Mppt module is perfectly suited for alternator charging too!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

That's excellent to know, thanks for sharing that! I'll update my website with that info later today. Here's the link... sprinterdiscovery.com/goalzero/

[@uhjyuff2095]

@@sprinterdiscovery Great info on your website. Thank you for the link!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@uhjyuff2095 Thanks very much!

[@notantosh626]

Can this be used together with the yeti link vehicle integration?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

It's instead of

[@TN-wl1rw]

Do you think this setup would work with the Titan Solar generator and a smart alternator? The Titan is a 24v system and allows for a 15A car charging port.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

I did a quick product search, and according to the specs the car port charging says 85 watts, less than the 360W the Victron will produce. Also the solar MPPT on the Titan has input voltage range of 35v to 145v, which is higher than what the Victron will produce. So, just based on that I don't think the Titan will charge with the Victron Orion. Probably install an inverter instead in your vehicle and use the charger that comes with your Titan. Best of luck on your setup. And thanks for watching!

[@TN-wl1rw]

@@sprinterdiscovery Thanks! I will do more research on inverters.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@TN-wl1rw You're welcome!

[@davidjondoh8671]

Is there any difference to input wattage to your Goal Zero when driving as opposed to idling?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Jon, there is no difference that I observe. Same number of watts being shown on the Goal Zero whether my Sprinter van is idling or running. I have observed in the hot summer though, when the Orion is cold it will output 32A and when it's really hot it will output 28A. Appears it's normal based on Victron specification sheet though.

[@davidjondoh8671]

@@sprinterdiscovery Thanks for the info. One more question. Does idling while charging for long periods have any ill effects on the alternator?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@davidjondoh8671 In my diesel Sprinter van I'll never idle it since it can plug up my DPF Diesel Particulate Filter. For those with a gas engine I believe you can idle for longer periods. Not sure about any ill affect on the alternator either way.

[@jacobkimbell]

Everything works the way yours does but mine does not shut off when i turn the van off. It keeps draining the battery. Any idea why?

[@Steve_the_Backroader]

Any chance of an update on how this setup is working for you?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Working excellent!

[@planetmikeus]

Does the Orion have the ability to limit max wattage or current?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi - yes it does, the maximum current is 30A. In fact, at one point I measured on a cold day 32A, and then as the unit heated up it dropped down to 28A. I have one of the older units that heat up more than the newer units. From what I have read on the Victron Community, the newer models limit to no more than 30A.

[@krimke881]

Don't you have a smart-alternator? How does the Victron dc-dc deal with the variable voltage?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Kenneth! The Sprinter does have a smart alternator. The Victron Orion handles it VERY well, and provides for a constant output voltage of 20V (configurable between 20V and 30V).

[@CG-xr5bz]

My alternator is 220does that make a difference?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

That's more than enough. It will be fine!

[@andrewmaynard9229]

Dude this is awesome! thanks for sharing :)

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thank you!! And thanks for watching!!

[@chanceboarder]

Great video. I've got a smaller Yeti 500x I'm wondering if I could do something similar. I have the GZ car charge with the 5amp/10amp switch but the 10amp setting overloads my 12 volt sockets in the car so it's only usable at 5amp. Been looking for a different solution and would love to be able to hardwire in something to get the full 10amp charging.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Unfortunately the 500X won't be able to charge in the car using this setup. The maximum charging rate for your 500X is 10A, and the Victron Orion will push 30A which will overload your 500X. You might have to upgrade your 12v lighter socket in your car to enable charging at 10A, or just charge at the slower 5A setting. The upgrade might consist of thicker wire (12AWG) connected directly to your battery, then wire up a female socket with a 15A fuse and run that over closet to your Yeti 500X. Then plug in your GZ car charger into that. What do you think? Should be a much cheaper and viable solution. Without having to do any cutting or soldering you could consider getting these two items from Noco amzn.to/33ClR88 and amzn.to/3eFswEB Or build your own from parts at your local auto parts store. Connect the ring terminals to your battery, then connect the extension and run inside your car closer to your GZ Yeti 500X, which plugs into your charger. Let me know what your thoughts are. Thanks for watching!

[@chanceboarder]

@@sprinterdiscovery Thanks for the reply. I will likely hard wire in an appropriate size cable direct to the battery to carry the 10amps, I'll have to isolate it so it doesn't continue to charge when the vehicle is turned off and kill my starter. I guess my main thinking with going the Victron route was future proofing since I'll eventually get a larger GZ or build a dedicated dual battery system. Appreciate the info.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@chanceboarder I was thinking today, since you want to future proof and use the Victron Orion, you could get one of the Orion 12/12-30 amzn.to/2RMH7oP and hook that up to your starter battery, and purchase either an AGM or Lifepo4 12v battery and connect that to the Orion in charge mode (rather than power-supply mode). Then you can hook up your GZ car charger to that second battery which is now isolated from your vehicle electrical system and is always charged while you drive. Your 500X would then be charged fully and will stop taking charge when it is full. Your second battery would be almost fully charged all the time. Now, when you upgrade to a Lithium Yeti like the 1500x or 3000x, here's what you can do. Purchase the Victron 12/24-15 (the one I use in the video), and connect that to the second battery, which in turn is then connected via the Anderson cable to the Yeti input. When you are camping or parked, you can turn off the first Victron unit, and the second Victron will take the power from the second battery, acting as extra storage. And while driving, the first Victron will charge the second battery, the second Victron will charge your Yeti. Later when you totally eliminate the GZ and install DIY batteries, you could setup a 24v system with an inverter attached. You'd still be able to use all the Victron equipment you purchased - making everything future-proof. What do you think?

[@WafflRaffl]

Really happy you made that video quite recently, super nice content. I want to do the exact same thing but still use solar with the 8mm input. Do you think the Victron Orion will also work with the newer yeti 1500x?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Raphael - Thanks very much! Glad you enjoyed it! One viewer reported in the comment section here that the setup works well with the Yeti 3000X, so definitely it will work with the 1500X. The Anderson Input is rated at 600W maximum, so the Victron Orion will push around 360W as you drive. You *might* be able to run solar via the 8mm input plug AND use the Victron Orion at the same time as you drive so long as it is both under 600W combined. I say "might" since I haven't tried that, as I don't have solar on my Sprinter van. I know on the Yeti 1000, the maximum input on the PWM side is 360W which includes the 8mm input port and APP input. If you try it, please leave an update here for us. I'll then update my website to include the updates. sprinterdiscovery.com/goalzero/ So glad that this video has helped you and others. :-) Have a great day!

[@WafflRaffl]

I already have another question: Is there a particular reason you're using the 12/24 V orion instead of a 12/12 with 30A?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@WafflRaffl Excellent question! The Goal Zero 1500X (for your case) has an APP input range of 14V-50V. On the Yeti 1000 it was 15V-22V. The spec sheets for the Victron Orion are here: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Orion-Tr-Smart-DC-DC-chargers-isolated-250-400W-EN.pdf So the Orion 12/12-30 can supply output voltages of 10v-15v, which would be just within the bottom range for your Yeti 1500X assuming the wire thickness is appropriate and not too long. If this voltage fluctuates due to temperature or other interference, it would go out of range. Whereas with the Orion 12/24-15 you would be well within the Yeti 1500X operating range since the output voltage is adjustable from 20v all the way up to 30v. On the Victron spec sheet, it shows the 12-12/30 outputs less power when it is hot. So when the ambient temperature is hotter, say 40c, it might not even charge your Yeti. Hence the reason for going with the Orion 12/24-15. Hope this makes sense. :-)

[@WafflRaffl]

@@sprinterdiscovery wow, what a precise, helpful and fast answer. I will report back for sure. As far as I know the two 8mm inputs can handle 120W each, so with a 360W input via the victron it should be a nice setup with two 120w panels. :)

[@WafflRaffl]

@@sprinterdiscovery all understood! Thank you so much for taking the time, I envy your enthusiasm!

[@leilanicole2268]

Wow, thank you for sharing all this info - it's super helpful and frankly just very generous of you. I hope I'm not doubling up on comments - I think the ones I posted before may have gotten deleted by youtube because I included a link to show you specifically which product I am considering - I'm new to this and don't know the rules. I'll be using a Yeti 1500 and was wondering if you think the Redarc 40 amp dc/dc charger would work instead of the Orion? It also has a solar controller and if I ever do a full van build, I'd like to use the Redarc. But if it's not compatible, then clearly the Orion is the ticket. If I do go with the Orion, what's the best choice for the Yeti 1500? Is there an option that would charge the Yeti 1500 faster than what you went with for your Yeti 1000? I don't plan to move around as often as you, so if I can give it more juice on short drives, great. I will also have 200w of solar, but I can't rely on that where I'll be. Any suggestions you can offer are greatly appreciated!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Leila! I'm not familiar with the RedArc, and the Orion you'll need for this to work properly is the one I've linked to in the description. It will work well with your Yeti 1500. With solar and short drives, you can keep a charge in your Yeti for sure. If it's just rain or snow for a whole week, best off to drive around for an hour or two exploring, then you'll top up the battery if you didn't run it down too far. There's nothing else from Victron to get that will charge any faster. We've been on a cross Canada trip since middle of July 2021, currently in Prince Edward Island and the Orion has been simply awesome at charging our Yeti. We have a 120V bar fridge in our Sprinter van connected to the Yeti which has been running non-stop without any issues. And no solar on our van at all! The Orion is simply amazing! Best wishes on your build!

[@notantosh626]

Would this work in conjunction woth the yeti link car mode?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

It's instead of

[@edwardknight6528]

Wow - this is just what i was looking for to be able to charge my 1500x in my van. I was reading through a bunch of the posts and had a question about what Orion charger to get. My van just has a 'little' 105 amp not smart alternator so would it be safer to get the 12/12 18amp instead of the big 12/24 15amp? I'm probably going to have to run about 10' of wire to get to the battery and still have to figure out a good location for the charger. Thanks in advance! Ed

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Ed - you'll definitely need the 24v output. 12v will be at the very edge of being able to charge the unit. But you could give it a try, and exchange the unit for the larger one if it doesn't work out. Best wishes on your build!

[@billparry5738]

Loving this option and thanks for all of the tips. I'm doing a van build with my son and looking at the Yeti 1500X. We would be using this Victron option as well as solar. Is it possible to have both the Victron and solar connected at the same time? If so would the Yeti be able to chose between the best input. Victron while driving and solar while parked?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Bill - thanks for watching! Yes it's possible if you have the optional MPPT module installed. The Victron Orion output can plug into the built-in PWM controller Anderson connections and your solar can be plugged into the MPPT Anderson connections. The Yeti would utilize all the available power coming in. So as you drive while during daylight hours your Yeti would charge from both solar and from your vehicle. When you drive at night it would charge via your vehicle. When parked during daylight hours it would charge via solar. Best wishes on your van build with your son!

[@billparry5738]

@@sprinterdiscovery Will the MPPT ($99) work with the 1500X or would I need to purchase the car link adapter ($499).

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Bill - According to Goal Zero, yes the MPPT expansion module is compatible with your 1500x www.goalzero.com/shop/yeti-accessories/yeti-lithium-mppt-solar-charging-optimization-module/ Another option would be to save yourself some money and just plug in solar during the day, and the Victron Orion at night or during overcast days when you drive. Not the most convenient but it will work.

[@billparry5738]

@@sprinterdiscovery Last question, I promise. I'll be putting this on a Ram Promaster. It will not have a smart alternator. Will the Victron still be able to detect when the engine is on or off so it doesn't drain my starter battery or house battery?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@billparry5738 Hi Bill - Feel free to ask as many questions as you like - I'm learning a lot from this community! Googling the ProMaster forums, it appears that the ProMaster alternator has a fixed output of 14.3V when the engine is running. Sprinter alternators have variable output voltage. Definitely the Victron Orion will be able to easily detect if your ProMaster engine is off so it doesn't drain your starter battery, and only starts to charge your Goal Zero when the engine is running. In the VictronConnect app, within the settings section, the two values you would enter can be 13.2V and 13.4V (same as my Sprinter van). When the alternator produces 13.4V or more the Victron Orion would engage and start to charge your Goal Zero. At an input of 13.2V or less (ie: the ProMaster alternator is not charging since it is less that the fixed 14.3V output voltage), the Victron Orion will not drain your battery and will not provide power to your Goal Zero. Let me know if this helped. Thanks!

[@daviky01]

This is great! My wife and I have a Ford Transit and the 1500x. I'd like to be able to implement alternator charging, and this looks like a great option compared to the Goal Zero branded MPPT unit. However, I do want to keep the solar option open for the future. Do you know if you could also connect solar panels to this particular Victron unit? Or is there something else that I would need? Thanks again!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi! You could purchase this particular Victron Orion unit, and plug it into the existing Anderson input to charge using your alternator. If, in the future, you decide you want to add solar, you could do one of several things. Buy the Goal Zero MPPT expansion module (not the Yeti Link), and install on the right hand side of your 1500X. Then connect your solar to that. Another option would be to manually disconnect the Anderson cable for alternator charging and then plug in your solar panels (say when you know you're camping for a while in a sunny spot). Then, when you're ready to drive, just manually plug in your Anderson cable used for alternator charging. Saves you a bit of money at the expense of having to manually switch cables. Unfortunately you won't be able to connect solar panels to the Victron Orion since they provide typically more than 16V and the Victron Orion can't handle that. You might find yourself not needing solar panels at all. As you know we've got the Yeti 1000, use our Sprinter van nearly everyday for errands (and vanlife when there's no pandemic restrictions in place!) and our Yeti sits at about 94% after most trips. We use it with our 110v bar fridge, water pump, lights, and USB fans. No solar needed😁👍 Thanks for watching! Hope this helps!!

[@daviky01]

@@sprinterdiscovery Thanks so much for the info and the quick reply! That is exactly what I needed to know. We have pups, and basically NEED to be able to run an air conditioning unit while we are making quick trips away from the van and are not on shore power. I'd like to avoid solar if possible, but to limp the battery along while we are away, I feel that solar is something we'll really need to consider. I think I'm going to purchase this setup now!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

You're welcome! Best wishes on your setup. If you need anything else, I'll do my best to help out! Have a great day

[@daviky01]

@@sprinterdiscovery another question, you mentioned that you don't need to fuse coming off the vehicle battery or before the Goal Zero. However, if you were to put a fuse inline at either of those locations, do you have any idea what fuse you'd use? Thanks!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

With this version of the Victron Orion (link in the description), it has an internal fuse. As for extra fuses I'm definitely not the expert on that - but I'm guessing it would be slightly above the maximum amperage going through the cables. From the Victron to the 1500X the amperage will be about 30A, so maybe 35A or 40A fuse should be sufficient. (If anybody else is reading this and can provide better guidance, it would be appreciated!) Hope this helps somewhat!

[@vin9976]

Any idea how I can get Solar and my Vehicles battery all plugged into the 1500X (without cable swapping). I'd ideally like as much wattage as possible. The updated Yeti Link Module says its supports "up to" 750W but I'm unsure how it all fits together. Currently my solar is plugged into the front facing APP port and is only 170W panel. Its for a Scout Kenai camper that came stock with a 1500X in it and integrated Renogy Solar panel. GoalZero is limited in their support so far...ugh

[@Followmyleash]

Thank you for sharing!! Your video is very helpful and thank you for a very comprehensive list of parts. I also have the goal zero 1000. However, I'm trying to set up the connection for my car Honda Pilot 2007 follow very much the same way you did except I have a lead acid and my battery is under the hood :). One question I have and hope that you could help. How do I know/find out what the level of power to take from my battery (lead-acid) in the configuration as you did with Victron isolator?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Otto! Thanks very much for your kind words! Much appreciated! For your 2007 Honda Pilot, I looked online to see what kind of alternator you have - and from what I gather it is also a smart alternator capable out outputting 130A, providing variable power to your lead acid battery. That will be more than enough to provide power to your vehicle and to your Yeti via the Orion. That said, you will be able to connect the Victron Orion (link in description) directly to your battery. You'll just need to configure your cutoff voltages in the VictronConnect app so that when your alternator is running and providing power to your battery, it will also provide a power supply to your Goal Zero 1000.via the Orion. So long as your alternator is outputting between 10V and 17V, you'll be able to provide power to your Yeti. I hope that helps!

[@Followmyleash]

@@sprinterdiscovery Thank you for such a quick response and for verifying my battery info.!!! Currently, I used the yeti car cigarette chargers. I use 3 of them when needed on a long trip. On one of the cigarette connections, I have the voltage indicator and it shows up to 14. When charged all three, it shows 13.1. Should I set my victron to charge when it's higher than 13.1?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Otto! You're welcome! I suggest, once you install the Victron, you run your Honda Pilot on idle for a little bit, and watch the VictronConnect app showing the voltage. Then turn off your car, wait a bit for the voltage to drop and stabilize, then make a note of that value. For instance, if the latter value is 13.0, set your cut-off voltage to 13.2v, and your on-voltage to 13.4v (just as an example). That's how I tuned mine, it was very quick and easy to do. Best wishes with your setup! Hope this helps.

[@Followmyleash]

@@sprinterdiscovery Thank you again for your help!!! I just realized that I have a slightly different system than yours :). I connect my car's main battery to a battleborn (100Am 12V) battery and then battle born to the yeti 100. Would it be better if I get the Victron isolator (12/12 |30) instead of (12/12|15)?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Otto, I haven't tried that configuration yet as I don't have a lithium battery inbetween the starter battery and the goal Zero. Let us know how it works out. All the best!

[@lynnfagerstrom7197]

I am starting my build and have the Yeti 1500x, would you use a higher amp charger?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Lynn! Your 1500X supports up to 50A input via the Anderson plugs, and the highest output is 24V at 15A . I'm unaware of any other Victron Orion that can output any more amps. For your 1500X it has 1500WH, and if this Orion charges at 360W per hour, your 1500X would be full in 4 hours of driving - assuming you drained the 1500X all the way to zero. Since we've had this solution, our Yeti is normally always fully charged - our van is our daily driver as we have downsized to only one vehicle. Best wishes on your build! Thanks for watching!

[@vin9976]

Did you ever figure this out? GoalZero has their Link Module now (400$) available with an EC8 connector on it. I'm thinking of running 6AWG wire from the Alternator (or battery if the Link Module supports not killing my battery) and then hopefully getting 300-750W into the 1500X (link module supports up to 750W). Currently my front facing APP port has solar panels plugged into it...I wondering how I can get all of this dialed into together without having to swap cables etc when driving.

[@timchan1783]

Great video! I'm currently using a pair of the Goalzero 12v car charger cables. They each provide 120w of charging while driving. I will now replace (or augment) them using a DC to DC charger. Did you try to wire the Victron to the terminals below the drivers seat? I recall that's where Mercedes recommends adding connections instead of directly to the battery.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Tim - glad you liked the video! I wired directly up to the battery terminals. I'm not sure where I would connect it to on the terminals under the seat. I know there are several there. Been going on 7 months with this setup so far and it's been working awesome! If you do find out which terminals to attach to please let us know here. Edit: I found this site which discusses the terminals... sprintervanusa.com/2016/08/07/tapping-in-to-the-sprinter-vans-battery/ It's something I have to look into for sure now that you mention it. I'm not sure of the implications of directly wiring to the battery though - do you know? Many thanks for raising this up here!

[@timchan1783]

@@sprinterdiscovery Here is what I'm referring to: sprintervanusa.com/2016/08/07/tapping-in-to-the-sprinter-vans-battery/. I'm thinking you could use the middle terminal, but that would mean it's live all the time, but I guess that's how your setup is also. The Victron is smart enough to know when the engine is running I assume. Just subscribed!

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks Tim! I just googled and edited my comment and replied with the same link as you! Lol definitely something I need to research. Thanks mate! And thanks very much for subscribing too!

[@salifmts3032]

salut,la sortie 12v sur le régulateur de charge solaire est de combien d Ampère ?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

FRENCH: Bonjour! La sortie est de 24 V à 15 ampères et l'Orion est un chargeur DC-DC, pas un contrôleur solaire. L'entrée provenant de la batterie de démarrage 12V est de 30 ampères. J'espère que ça t'as aidé! ENGLISH: Hello! The output is 24V at 15 amps, and the Orion is a DC-DC charger, not a solar controller. The input coming from the 12V starter battery is 30 amps. Hope that helps!

[@tonyspad1363]

I have the same battery and I also have a never used Renogy (Renogy 12V 60A DC to DC). Can I use this the same way? Thanks :)

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hey Tony, it won't work. The Victron Orion has a special "power supply" mode, whereas the Renogy doesn't. Thanks for watching!

[@tonyspad1363]

@@sprinterdiscovery thank you so much for the reply

[@jzmills]

Do you think it would be okay to put this under the drivers seat?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

So long as you have a good amount of ventilation under the seat, you should be fine. The unit does get hot under normal conditions. My unit is attached to the outside rear seat box of the Sprinter, and has performed flawlessly since. Almost one year with this Orion, charging my Yeti 1000 without any solar! Thanks for watching! ☺️

[@jzmills]

@@sprinterdiscovery awesome, thanks! I have a 1500x, so I should be able to ramp it up to 50 volts? Was thinking of setting it around 35-40 just to keep it safe.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@jzmills The range that the Victron Orion is able to output is from 20V to 30V, so if you set it to 30V or less you'll have no issues for your 1500X. I know others who have done it without issue.

[@jzmills]

@@sprinterdiscovery awesome, thanks again!

[@joshuabarrett8282]

I have the Orion isolated 12-12-30 dc to dc Reading through the comments I am unsure if this will work correctly with a goal zero to charge from my Ford Transit CCP. I am not wed to the goal zero as I haven’t decided on the unit to purchase yet. Looking at Goal Zero, Bluetti AC200max, Would this setup work with either unit?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Joshua - it appears that neither will work. The AC200max will only accept a max input of 15A. The Goal Zero Yeti 1000 will accept voltage between 16V and 22V with max of 30A input. Hope that helps.

[@joshuabarrett8282]

@@sprinterdiscovery appreciate the response, that’s unfortunate as I purchased the incorrect unit. I’ll try and sell this one and pick up the 12-24-15 to charge my generator Thanks again. And the video is great.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks - all the best on your build!

[@Beardinc]

Very cool. Will have to figure this out for my bluetti ac200p. I believe the minimum input voltage is higher that the GZ.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Correct, the minimum input voltage for the ac200p is 35v to 150v. In your case you could purchase an inverter and connect that to your vehicle battery, then use the charger from the ac200p and charge while you drive. It's not the most efficient, but will fast charge your ac200p quickly. You'd have to ensure that the inverter turns off when the vehicle is off. You could buy the Victron Phoenix 12/1200VA inverter and use the VictronConnect app to turn off the inverter when the input voltage goes below 13.3V (for instance). You can see this one: amzn.to/3oFHFei Best wishes on your build!

[@geezers10]

@@sprinterdiscovery This option doesn't always work with the AC200. Even with the inverter set to the correct voltage and all hardware inspected for proper installation the Mercedes smart alternator doesn't like to play nice with the Phoenix inverter.. I'm running this exact profile on my 2021 2500 170 hightop and will get the occasional dash message to pull over. Both the battery, charger, and related wiring has been inspected by two Mercedes dealers with no issues found. I'm still looking for a good, non wallet draining option.

[@JeanJacquesQuang]

@@sprinterdiscovery hello, I have a powerbox with 12v-50v and 15A input. But you say that with max 15A, it will not work with citron 12-24 15A? Could you elaborate why it won't work please ? As Victron should hand 15A? Thank you

[@vickimathews1970]

@@geezers10 I'm learning as I go and wondering if we can use a solenoid with a smart alternator, I saw a video (I'm not sure he had a smart alternator) the guy had the solenoid in the engine bay and that linked to a fuse to then switch off the inverter when the ignition is switched off.

[@paullee8319]

Thank you for your valuable videos. I have the original inergy Kodiak with 600 max solar input (12v-32v). You mentioned that the Victron Orion TR-Smart Isolated 12/24-15 "upconverts the 12V over to a configured 20V-22V." If so, it seems that my Kodiak can be charged with the Victron Orion DC to DC charger as long as I can manage to make a connecting cable. I have a proprietary solar charging cable with MC4 connectors. So I need to make a cable with MC4 on one end that can connect to Orion on the other hand. Would this work? Pleas let me know if the Orion can charge my Kodiak. Thank you.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Paul, thanks for watching! I think your original inergy Kodiak will be able to charge via the Victron Orion. The Victron can provide power configurable between 20V and 30V which is within the 12V to 32V range of your Kodiak, and the Orion will be able to provide up to 360W which is within your Kidiak's 600W max input. If the input cable is an MC4, the other end will be bare stranded wire which goes into the Victron Orion output terminals. I really think it should work! In your case you could set the maximum voltage on the Victron Orion at 30V (via the VictronConnect app). Once you have it all running, please let us all know the outcome. Best wishes on your setup! Have a great day!

[@paullee8319]

@@sprinterdiscovery I have another question regarding a possibility of Delta Pro's alternator charging via Victron Energy Orion-Tr IP43 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt DC-DC Converter, Isolated. Besides the ingergy Kodiak which you said would work with the Orion DC-DC converter, I have Bluetti AC 200 as well, which I wanted to do alternator charging. But you said Bluetti products don't work with the Orion, which was a little disappointing. While the Kodiak may work, it has a rather small battery capacity (95Ah) and I need much more for van life. I, however, recently found another product for my future van life that has more battery capacity (3600 Wh) and much more capable inverter (3600 W). It is the upcoming EcoFlow's Delta Pro which will be on Indigogo project as of July 1. I am definitely going to get that one with extra battery. The great news for me is that it has a very wide range (11-150 volt) of solar charging input capacity. So I think this will definitely work with the Victron Orion. Still I wanted to ask your opinion. What do you think? Do you think it is feasible with Delta Pro as well? If so, how should I set the charging parameter on Orion? Thank you in advance for your great input.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@paullee8319 Hi Paul - I wasn't able to access the specs on the Delta Pro as I'm in Canada and the Ecoflow website simply directs me to the Canadian website and they don't allow me to view the Delta Pro webpage. As for charging the unit, just use the Victron Orion's "power supply mode" - this provides power to the built-in solar controller in the GZ/Kodiak/Delta power pack - the Orion simply "pretends" to be the solar panel. Solar panels don't have their own controller, they just provide power, so the Victron Orion will emulate that power. If you want to charge a plain Lithium or AGM battery with the Victron Orion, THEN you'd configure the Orion with charging parameters applicable to that battery based on what the manufacture states. Hope that helps!

[@paullee8319]

@@sprinterdiscovery Detailed specs on the Delta Pro are available through the link below. facebook.com/groups/deltaprolaunch/?ref=share

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Are you able to post all the specs here in the comment section? I don't use FB, and it's a private group.

[@davys-on-the-road-again]

I have Ecoflow Delta mini which can pull 300 watts but I'm only getting 160 watts via the Victron smart 12/24/10. I have a feeling my settings are wrong. Can anyone tell me what I should set each parameter to? Currently it's on a preset lithium battery charger setting.

[@Kpb1634]

I set mine up and having troubles. It engages than cuts out right away, I think it might be the wire coming from my alternator to my battery.

[@Kpb1634]

Looks like it’s a faulty fuse. What size fuse did you use from battery to The Orion?

[@lynnfagerstrom7197]

Would a Renogy DC to DC Charger work as well?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Lynn - Short answer is: No. Longer answer: The Victron Orion linked in the description is definitely the one that you need and the one that works. It's not only a DC to DC charger (like the Renogy), but it also provides a unique "power supply" function (unlike the Renogy) that we use to make the magic happen. In power supply mode, we feed the Yeti 1000 (and certain other models as well) with 20V and 30A of energy. The Renogy is only able to "charge" (unable to do "power supply mode"). That's why we chose the Victron Orion. Yes, it's more expensive and it does have more features which are necessary to charge the Yeti. The Victron also has the ability to sense if the engine is off, and not drain the starter battery. Hope this helps!

[@lynnfagerstrom7197]

Thanks Sprinter Discovery! I spoke to Renogy, they said it’s for deep cycle batteries, not lithium. So I’ve gone with the Victron. Thank you

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@lynnfagerstrom7197 You're very welcome Lynn! Thanks for the update as well 😁👍

[@lynnfagerstrom7197]

Thanks! I’ve got all my ducks in a row, just can’t find cables, darn COVID

[@sprinterdiscovery]

You're very welcome Lynn! Not sure if you checked already, but in video description I've got some links to various cable you could buy online. But they might be in short supply (darn covid!). If you need any help with the Orion config just reach out here or via email.

[@JahazielCruzPLUS]

WOW Awesome thx for the info.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Any time!

[@pinay56]

So if you don't have solar panels, then the idea is to charge your goal zero by just using your vehicles battery or second battery?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hi Cameron! Thanks for watching! You are correct - no solar panels on our Sprinter van, and we charge the Yeti purely by alternator charging via the Victron Orion. We don't have a second battery (yet) so it's just the power coming from the starter battery via the alternator. We only use the Sprinter as our daily driver so it's charged fully nearly every day. It's an excellent working solution! Have a great day!

[@pinay56]

@@sprinterdiscovery Thanks....

[@proto662]

I also asked same question on todd parkers video upload. I was looking at buying the victron orion 12/24 15 amp dcdc charger to charge my yeti 1500x from alternator. Would I need the victron orion 12/12 dcdc charger to charge a 12v external lif4po4 battery from the yeti 1500x? Maybe I could buy a 24v external lif4po4 battery and tie that into the powerpole connection for charging yeti and use the orion 12/24 dcdc to charge the external 24v battery as well?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Here's what I'm planning to do. I already have a Victron IP65 Blue Smart 12v 15a battery charger to charge my starter battery. If I have an external 12v lifepo4 in my van (to use as a "tank"), I'd charge that using the blue smart charger. I'd then put get those large Anderson connectors and place them on the end of the wire that leads from the starter battery. Then also add some seperate wires to the lifepo4 and attach another pair of the larger Anderson connectors (ap50 i think). Then on the Orion I'll place a set of the larger Anderson on the input side. So when I'm driving I'll just connect between the starter and the Orion to charge the Yeti using the appropriate VictronConnect settings. Then when I'm parked and I need to draw from the external lifepo4, I'll connect that to the Orion, configure the VictronConnect appropriately. This way you only need one Victron Orion and one BlueSmart and both have dual purpose.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

I think you can't connect the 24v lifepo4 directly to your Yeti. You need to regulate the power using another Victron from the 24v source to your Yeti.

[@proto662]

I know you need 2 use a12/24 orion 2 charge yeti from alternator. I'm just trying 2 figure out the simplest way 2 run xtra lif4po4 battery inbetween alternator and solar charging.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Hey Marcel - I'm not sure how to do that (yet!). But perhaps our viewers might know. If I come across a solution I'll definitely update it here and on my website too.

[@uhjyuff2095]

To charge your 24v external battery get a 24 volt dcdc charger so then it will be charged when driving. Then get a Goal zero mppt module and connect the 24v battery + and - to the power pole input of the mppt module. The 24v battery will drain into the goal zero at approximately 320 watts and if your dcdc charger can output more than 320 watts into the 24 volt battery you can charge both simultaneously while driving! I love the 24 Volt external battery idea because the Goal zero MPPT module is rated up to 48 volts input even though the label says otherwise (I have tested my GZ MPPT module with a 44 VOC 72 cell solar panel). Please note I am only talking about the GZ MPPT add on module!

[@brycemoon2712]

Im trying to figure out if a 1000 Core will work with this setup, can you help me out?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

What is a "1000 Core" - do you have description?

[@brycemoon2712]

@@sprinterdiscovery It is the "amazon special" Goal Zero Yeti 1000 Core, it is basically a budget 1000X with lesser power input

[@brycemoon2712]

@@sprinterdiscoveryits input is what Im confused about these are the specs listed on the website Charging port (input, 8mm): 14-50V, up to 10A (150W max) Charging High Power Port (input): 14-50V, up to 25A (300W max)

[@sprinterdiscovery]

@@brycemoon2712 Hi Bryce, thanks for the info. You will need to get the Victron Orion Tr-Smart Isolated 12V/24V-10A version that will put out a total of 240W. Your Yeti 1000 CORE can only handle up to 300W, so this Victron Orion model will work. Set it as power-supply mode in the VictronConnect, and you can choose any Voltage up to 30V since your Yeti 1000 CORE can accept up to 50V input. Hope that helps!

[@brycemoon2712]

@@sprinterdiscovery Thank you so much for the help! I really appreciate it.

[@lynnfagerstrom7197]

Yes, I checked that link, no cords😢. I’ll find some... Thanks

[@markymark272]

Does anyone know if this will work with bluetti AC200P?

[@markymark272]

Great question, if you find an answer please share.

[@Youneedkoolin]

This is genius. I wish I would have done this instead of solar panels

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks for watching Fika!

[@kazz003]

Great video. I’m interested in using this method to charge my 1500x in my current setup. I have a Victron mppt plugged to solar and charging my main house batteries. My plan is to plug in a 12 - 24 v Orion to the load output of the mppt to also charge the 1500x. That way I can set a charging algorithm on my mppt to charge the 1500x without draining my batteries. Any issues anyone sees wiht the proposed setup ?

[@4X4DMAN]

AWESOME.

[@travelbug4251]

I recently installed a Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt DC-DC Charger Isolated (Bluetooth) to charge a Goal Zero Zeit 3000 over the 30A PowerPole input. Unfortunately there is a compatibility issue with the 12/12-30A version. The Yeti 3000 does shortly stop charging in cold state, probably due to over current (in cold state the Orion can deliver an output current up to 40A, whereas the Yeti accepts only 30A), which is causing the Yeti 3000 to close off charging. - I ordered a Orion-Tr Smart 12/24-Volt 15 amp as an alternative now, since this device will avoid the over current. Drawback will be, that the max. charging output will be about 315W (15V*21V, and not the possible 360W) and the risk, that in case of misconfiguration, the Voltage could be over the allowed 22V for the Yeti. But at least it will work.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Good to know thanks for sharing this info! After looking at the specs, I didn't go with the 12/12-30 and instead went with the 12/24-15A. Glad you actually confirmed it! Definitely temperature plays a role in how much is delivered to the Yeti.

[@sahathorne1]

I believe the yeti 3000x has input limit up to 50A so this 40A surge should be okay with that model. Does this make sense?

[@travelbug4251]

@@sahathorne1 I just double checked the specs for you and you‘re right, GoalZero Yeti 3000x is indicated for „High Power charging port (input): 14-50V, up to 50A (600W max)“. So you should be able to go with the 12/12-30A or the 12-24-15A. Since the Yeti 3000x has a voltage input of 14-50W, I would go with the 24V option. You would not have the risk of over voltage (in case of misconfiguration of the Orion) as you have with the the 12V option. But in principle, both options 12V & 24V should work in your case with the Yeti 3000x. With Yeti 3000 the 12V option doesn‘t work.

[@ralph9987]

Why don't you have solar?

[@sprinterdiscovery]

We get a lot more cloud and rain and short days where we live and travel. Plus, not having solar panels on our Sprinter van makes us very stealth - we can literally park anywhere overnight and camp. This Victron Orion setup is simply awesome!

[@CalmTurtle2023]

Good video... I have the 1000 and the Yeti Link as well... but I’m finding Goal Zero stuff expensive and I’ve had the battery for 3 years now and it’s getting flaky... So, slowly moving over to building my own battery system with 100aH battery etc...

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Thanks Jong! Yeah the Goal Zero equipment but very well built. If your battery is flaky after 3 years, you could contact Goal Zero and see how much it would cost to have them replace it. Worth a shot at least. Thanks for watching!

[@5885ronny]

Gut 👍🤗

[@sprinterdiscovery]

Danke!