Going Beyond Capacity with the Chainsaw Mill (but how?)

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi Friend! We have written a book called, "How to make a chainsaw mill and how to use it: The tips and tricks that will unlock the magical art of planking up fallen trees"For more info or to buy it go here: ko-fi.com/s/dd5b46e8a8

[@JM-jd7yp]

I would just like to thank you for your honesty and openess when doing something you love. Authenticity is such a rare commodity these days but you have it and it adds to the richness of both your videos and the comments you attract. I wish you many happy years of milling and thank you for the many videos which you have made. I have enjoyed them immensely.

[@FloweringElbow]

Good morning JM, really appreciate that, thanks friend :D

[@jasondutter1]

I have started milling here in Washington State and find your series of videos most informative and pleasant. Ive been running a saw for over 50 years and am learning good things from your presentations! Thank you

[@FloweringElbow]

Thanks Jason! Good luck with it.

[@IceBergAbe]

I just found this channel through a recommendation and I must say... Wow. 10.8k subscribers?? Bud, you are well on your way to a Much larger audiance with content like this, here. Very, very impressive and highly enjoyable on all fronts! From MN, U.S.A., take care!

[@FloweringElbow]

Good day Abe. I really appreciate your enthusiastic encouragement, means a lot to me friend ;)

[@slightlyskewed]

Thanks for the video. This has given me confidence in cutting wider planks. Much appreciated.

[@robertmoats1890]

Thumbs up for swingemejiggering. Absolutely one of the best words ever spoken.

[@FloweringElbow]

Thank you kindly Robert :D

[@jasondutter1]

I have been milling logs for 1 month, 36 times in a row. I have looked at many tutorials and found your expert advice has helped me much!! Thank you. I am milling large Western Cedar and Maple and I am now confident I can go around those big bumps I didn't want to lose.

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey Jason, really appreciate that, thank you 😊 🙏

[@jacobjackson2372]

One thing I have learned, in the real world, logs are always more awkward than you think, with funny shspes and sizes. Thanks for showing the first difficult lump - makes it all seem more real to see how you managed. Nice technique with the mill extending - simple and effective.

[@deanhall4069]

Really enjoying your channel. Only just discovered it. Thanks.

[@botfoblhrp]

Wow thanks for showing tips as such for us who may like to try this. And big thanks for showing the peice at end of video, awesome crotch wood design. Keep up the great work.

[@brianr8581]

You are a beast man! Doing that alone with no help is a lot of work.

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey Brian. Thank you for your comment. A lot of work it indeed is ;) Satisfying though :) Peace, Bongo.

[@RSLtreecare]

Very nice to see this. I have cleared and cut hedges. I have see sawmill at eco fairs. It's good to see this timber being cut up and put to good use.

[@philstevens9914]

I live in the midst of many kitchen cabinet manufacturers in Pennsylvania in the US. Poplar is extensively used for 5 piece door and drawer frame construction. In my experience poplar is easy to work with and mills up nicely. It takes stain well but is also the best material for painted components.

[@johnwayne318]

Wire brush and airgun to clean gummed up chains first. Granberg 12volt precision stone sharpener. Set it up to where the stone spins into the cutting edge (as oppose to hand filling spin out from the cutting edge) to prevent the chrome coated top plate from leaving a pesky burr. I get up to 40+ sharpenings on Oregon's 27rx ripping chain. Every tooth is pretty much exactly the same size its entire life after each sharpening. I have 3 year old chains still cutting as smooth and almost as quickly as my brand new chains. Also I take my rakers down on brand new chain before I throw them on the mill it cuts much quicker and smoother. Also I always rinse my chain in diesel or K1 to clean condition them. Nothing is as sharp or precise for me and thousands of slabs in all species native to my area have proven my methods. Couple years of research and then testing many methods and keeping track of each chain in how it performs... Well worth it I STRONGLY RECOMMEND TRYING THIS. Excellent video I love the crotch figure in those slabs!!! Thanks for sharing!!!

[@FloweringElbow]

Nice tips, thanks! Will have to try the Granberg at some point :)

[@sylviaknutcecily]

Golly! That grain is beautiful!!

[@FloweringElbow]

Right on Josh! Thanks for getting in touch -you're so right :D

[@diogenesegarden5152]

I’ve been looking at chainsaw mills again recently (as I’ve had a 20 year break from forestry work and didn’t have the internet back then but did so some mobile milling helping a mate out once with a Woodmizer), I do a bit of gardening and stuff now but occasionally come across some nice timber in the round which are crying out to be slabbed up. In one of my recent encarnations I was installing solar panels; I still have some off cuts of the extruded ali box section in my shed which we used to mount the panels on....... I feel a project coming on. Might need a bigger saw though as I don’t think my little Stihl MS 170 will quite cut the mustard :-)

[@FloweringElbow]

Good evening Diogenese, thanks for the comment. Sounds like you have the materials. You probably want a bigger saw if you are going for anything with a reasonable width.

[@benjaminkirchner7569]

Cool, that means my project will work too.

[@twotone3070]

So skillful, great to watch.

[@FloweringElbow]

Thank you! Cheers Twotone :)

[@jamespeterson1148]

Lovely milling tips. I like the versatility of your mill design. Looks like a reasonable way to tackle the troublesome wide sections of logs.

[@TheGrainDoctor]

I’m really enjoying your videos - thanks for putting them out there.

[@FloweringElbow]

Thanks friend. Really appreciate the encouragement, and to know you are getting something out of them is gold...

[@geigertron3000]

wow, awesome work, guess i'll have to try and build this mill!

[@FloweringElbow]

Appreciate that friend, thanks😊

[@geigertron3000]

@@FloweringElbow oooo, and there's a book!

[@FloweringElbow]

@@geigertron3000 Yeah, lots of useful stuff in that book 😉. Seriously though, money back if you don't like it :)

[@amwphotos]

Using the thickness gauge blocks is a great idea! My mill has measurements etched on it but a couple of 1", 2" etc blocks would be easier.

[@FloweringElbow]

Yep. Simple and quick and no measuring involved 😉

[@spud13x13]

Much as i liked the whole video, and your others, this was the gem that paid off two hours of you-tubing! I and my aging eyes have struggled with the thickness markings on my mill. Thumbs up to DIY for forcing a more robust solution.

[@richardtheisen6456]

You asked for ideas for that one piece. I wish I could send a picture. I've taken old weathered boards and out them together. Then using old rusty square nails, I hung a bunch vintage tools on these boards and hung the whole setup on the wall. That would work with pieces like yours as well

[@FloweringElbow]

Nice idea ;)

[@NW_Ranger]

GOOD JOB, Bud!

[@ccs618]

It might work ok to add an additional hole to the bar on the powerhead end. When you disconnect the tip of the bar from the mill, use that bolt in the new hole to give a second connection point on the powerhead end. That should greatly reduce the mill from wondering on you.

[@FloweringElbow]

Nice idea Tim.

[@TELOYSTV]

Nice my boss..👍 Keep safe to your freehand mill 🙂

[@FloweringElbow]

Thank you Teloys :D

[@TELOYSTV]

@@FloweringElbow your wc brother.

[@petercrossley-ql2sn]

I have a new 90 cm sugihara bar with a tip bearing. I start making the mill tomorrow. I will not be clamping, I plan to drill through the bar. How are the tip bearing designed, can I drill straight through the middle of the tip bearing? Or do I drill through the bar itself, 5 cm from the tip piece?

[@FloweringElbow]

I cant say for sure on the Sugihara bars, maybe someone can chime in? I know on the still sprocket nose (Rollomatic) bars I have drilled an 8mm hole in the centre of the bearing and that works great... It's not the first time folks have asked me about these bars so I'd really appreciate it if you let me know what you find. Thanks for watching friend ;)

[@tucanman9775]

poplar we use for silk screen frames because its light but doesnt warp when wet

[@24revealer]

Those slabs would make some nice stair treads.

[@colmscannell2448]

hi love the channel could I ask you something about the saws you use i the ms 880 the only saw for the job i am just about to buy the ms660 any help would be appreciated

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey Colm, so many factors it's hard for me... if you have many hardwoods over 1.5m I'd say spend the extra on 880... 660 would still work, just not quite as well ;)

[@blmu1]

Those slabs are amazing, maybe i will have to take back all of my trash talking about poplar.... and maybe you'll have to open a timber merchants soon!!!

[@davidwhiren817]

Horse sense is developed , we are not born with it , We think our way through !!!

[@Roflmao0001]

Could you have pulled out the saw from the cut, come around to the uncut side of the log, cut in from a 45 degree angle of your existing cut and have it line up? Given that the top of the wood is level, shouldn't it match up perfectly? Then you can just come to the third side and finish with another 45. If that makes any sense?

[@FloweringElbow]

Good day Joe. Thanks for the comment, which I an trying to twist my brain round... I kinda think I understand what you mean and I think that might be possible, if detaching the nose and of the cs mill. Not sure how it would work without doing that...? Maybe I'm missing something Joe? Thanks again, Bongo.

[@reillystsb]

What a great video I do wood milling & I learnt a lot From this video I need to get a bolt through mill...! Where do you buy that mill from

[@FloweringElbow]

Good morning John. Thanks for this. Yeah, bolt through is the way forward ;) I designed and made the mill so it can be built with regular alu extrusion. Free plans that are available on instructables - just google chainsaw mill instructables and flowering elbow.... Thanks again for your comment, Bongo.

[@CS_247]

Hi, great work there, some beautiful pieces of timber. What saw are you using, where did you get the bar, and where did you get the mill, please? I have two HUGE ancient fallen chestnuts on our property that i would like to part up, been quotes silly money for a local mill to come in and get the trees out.

[@FloweringElbow]

Good morning Anton, thanks for getting in touch. The saw is a Stihl ms880, and I am using it was packaged with a 48" bar, which is what I am using here - they were from a local Welsh shop. As for the mill, that was very simply home made from extrusion with off the shelf parts, no welding or special tools needed. I have written detailed plans on the Instructables site, just google "Flowering Elbow chainsaw mill" and it should come right up... Good luck with the chestnuts, let us know how it goes :)

[@markkoons7488]

You must live where it is very wet. I'd love to see how those slabs look when they're dry. At what moisture content do you consider wood to be dry there? I recently saw a video of a happy camper in thirsty US country surfacing a freshly cut slab with a router. From experience I know how differently the process works (or, rather, fails to work) with wood dried to 6% - 8% MC. Do you use glycol to stabilize the wild grain as you dry or maybe wrapping in paper? Please show us how you dry and the result you get. Thank you.

[@ryanhawkermoto]

Hey man awesome video. How did you get the bolt through the end of the bar like that? Do you have to be careful when you tighten? As in - too tight and the end doesn’t spin easily?

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey Ryan, thanks for watching. Yeah, there's a whole section in the book ( ko-fi.com/s/dd5b46e8a8 ) on this, but in short: An 8mm carbide twist drill through the very centre of the sprocket works well for sprocket nose stihl guide bars, and does not jam up when tightened. Just one of the reasons it is a way better method than the typical clamp on mill jigs...

[@ryanhawkermoto]

@@FloweringElbow and of course you get that additional 2” of cut width. Thanks for the reply.

[@nigelsansom2407]

I loved the guide blocks idea. So bloody obvious but it has never occurred to me. I’ve just been setting and resetting off of the etched guide numbers. 😀 What’s the music btw..?

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi Nigel. Yep the guide/gauge blocks are handy and easy to make, so worth having (especially as I never put any markings on my DIY mill 😜). The music tracks are listed down at the end of the video description. Cullah, is my personal favourite - he's an amazing artist that gives his music away for free! I support him on patreon, and plug his stuff whenever I can, that's how good I love it :)

[@spud13x13]

Exactly my take. i have a 36" Granberg, BTW. The markings are there, but depending on eyesight and light conditions, it's easily +/-1/64 off after much tweaking. Setting thickness has been the least enjoyable part of this new hobby. As soon as i get out in the shop tomorrow i'm going to cut a few sets of blocks in my typical slabbing thicknesses. If anyone asks how i came up with such a great idea, i'll do my best to give credit where due!!!

[@thewelshwoodman649]

Thanks again for sharing this video, picking up some really good tips, beautiful landscape in the background are you in Wales?

[@FloweringElbow]

Ho the Welsh Woodman! Yes of course Wales. Where are you by?

[@thewelshwoodman649]

@@FloweringElbow I'm from just outside of Cardiff Rhondda Cynon Taff :-)

[@FloweringElbow]

@@thewelshwoodman649 Hey cool. Just subbed to your channel, looks good. Maybe you would consider a colab in the future? My shop is near Carmarthen and I actually pass Cardiff from time to time as my partner has a job in Cambridge... Would be cool to meet up sometime.

[@thewelshwoodman649]

@@FloweringElbow That sounds like an awesome idea, I've got a friend that lives in Camarthen. perhaps we could make a farm house table together? I could turn up some legs and do some mortise and tenon joints in the frame, I think it could look cool with a natural edge slab top :-)

[@carlosrodriguezlopez310]

That hand close to the chain in minute 9:31 was making me sweat

[@aerialrescuesolutions3277]

How did you drill through the sprocket on the bar end? Did you remove the sprocket, or is this a duromatic bar?

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi Aerial, there is a LOT of detail on this in the book. In short, Duromatic is obviously quite easy, in that there is no sprocket. With the rollomatic GB you can drill an 8mm hole right in the center of the sprocket (in the middle of the pattern of rivets) and it works fine). A carbide twist drill is recommended... Hope that helps.

[@aerialrescuesolutions3277]

@@FloweringElbow That does help. I have the Granburg mill and several types of chain that I'm experimenting with. The oiler on the return side of chain travel is a great idea too, I will apply this to mine. Thank you, Jim

[@nicholasgosper3247]

I've been learning heaps watching the videos mate! Hey what brand of mill attachment is that one on the MS880? Looks like a good one..... Cheers!

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey Nicholas, it's one we made from extruded aluminium and off the shelf parts. I have a complete plan/tutorial on-line, just search "flowering elbow chainsaw mill instructable' and it should come up.

[@seanmiller5253]

why the resperator air breather mask ???thanks enjoy your work...

[@FloweringElbow]

Good question, it's because milling is not like normal chainsaw work. Modern 2 stroke oil is very good and has almost perfected 'smokeless' combustion. Now while it is much less visible to us, the exhaust emissions are still there. When milling on days without a good breeze, you can be standing in a cloud of fumes that are mighty toxic for hours a day... I know from experience that if I don't wear a mask with carbon filters, by the end of the day I feel way more fatigued and a little nauseous. Long term it can't be good... The body's your most valuable and versatile tool, gotta look after it, etc etc...

[@seanmiller5253]

@@FloweringElbow yes,you are correct and I'm glad for your response,thank Merry Xmas. Keep posting ...big fan ...also I'm sure if you ever needed help with a big projects,many subscribers would volenteer !!! i would for sure ,thank again ...sean miller USA ,NJ...

[@29backwards]

You did made really good pice of gear. I like it alot. Because frame is from aluminium, do you have any problems with screw on/off because of soft material (aluminium)? Great video!

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi David. Thank you for your question. No problems on that front thus far :)

[@hikemoreh96pro]

awesome! do you use a normal chain or a special ripping chain with about 10 degree sharpening ?

[@FloweringElbow]

Good morning Henrik, thanks :) We use both, depending on the wood. For this soft poplar, I think I was using about a 15 degree chain... I chat about this subject in the chain sharpening video, you can find it in the chainsaw milling playlist... HTH

[@JohnKrakatoa]

I milled some wide crotches like this just going from the other end for each branch, so 3 times entering the log and this enhances the crotch capacity greatly

[@FloweringElbow]

Good morning John, that's a cool idea. Imagine it gets a bit tricky round where the three cuts meet, but I guess that's where ingenuity and skill kick in ;) Thanks for sharing.

[@JohnKrakatoa]

@@FloweringElbow Yeah best to use this method with rails/ladder

[@volkerpetersen2268]

For this technique it would be beneficial if your Mill would be bolted through with 2 holes / bolts at the powerhead end.With only one bolt, you will only clamping for, with 2 bolts, your bar cannot go anywhere, because it will always be aligned. The shear force will be enormous though, so you would still have to go easy. Having the mill bolted down is surely advantageous for changing the chain, but as I use the narrow 3/8" lp chain with the 1,3mm grove, I find I need to clean to the groove every 6-9 cutting meters anyways.Have a Husqvarna 3120 on order, just find it more versatile as it has the D009 bar mount compared to the big Stihl 880 bar mount.Keep us informed about the durability of the poplar. Have so far only seen furniture for inside use, which have nice pattern to it and are feather light.

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi Volker. Right about the weight of it... it stats off very heavy because of its quite high moisture content. But bits that have dried become surprisingly heavy. Agree about the bar mount.

[@williamtyson4307]

Love this mill.Who makes it and are there accessories available.

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi William. I made it from readily available aluminium extrusion profile... I have published free plans here : www.instructables.com/id/Chainsaw-Mill-Build-Use-Tips-n-Tricks/

[@dtw111able]

Great Job!! What did you build with the slabs?

[@1320crusier]

That poplar is gorgeous.. wish we had some of that around here. How has the nose mount worked out for you?

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey 1320. Yeah the poplar is quite fine 🙂. The nose mount is the only way I would mount a mill, simple, easy, only one secure bolt. :)

[@1320crusier]

@@FloweringElbow you havent seen any increased wear because of it? I was thinking of a design that did it but was a bit wary of it.

[@FloweringElbow]

@@1320crusier Nope. I have done it with a duromatic (hard nose) and rollomatic (sprocket nose) - both Stihl bars, both 8mm hole and 12.4 grade (high tensile) bolt straight through into the mill .. Other bar brands may vary, but I have heard no rumours to indicate that. Hope that helps, Bongo.

[@1320crusier]

@@FloweringElbow Sounds good to me. Thanks for the info. :)

[@bikers-n-bullets2618]

I have a question I’ve been mulling over. “Do I change my clamp-on mill into a bolt-through mill?” I lose about 4 inches on the nose end of the bar clamping it. And changing a chain is suuuch a hassle. I have the capabilities of machining the whole thing myself, but the big question I haven’t been able to answer is “can I drill through the center of the sprocket nose???” Also What’s the biggest hole I can drill in the center of the sprocket? How hard can I tighten that bolt if it’s in the middle of the sprocket?

[@FloweringElbow]

Good evening Bikers-n-bullets. Thanks for the good question and saying why you would want to drill the bar so succinctly. I have done it with a stihl sprocket nose bar and 8mm hole right in the centre of the sprocket. I needed a carbide bit to drill through. 8mm should be plenty if you use a high tensile bolt. Not sure what max diameter would be. I can torque it down very tight, no binding... That's my experience. I also have a longer solid nose gb, which is nice because you can push the hole a little further out again :) Hope that helps, Bongo

[@chocaholic65]

I noticed that these are pretty nice and thick slabs you're getting. You must need to let them dry and season out for a year or two?

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi AL K, thanks for watching. You are right, they do need to dry for a couple of years. We usually go by the 'one year per inch of thickness' rule of thumb..

[@gabrielamadeus]

Curious how you drilled the hole in your bar tip, doesn't this interfere with the sprocket rotation?

[@stevesanders3992]

What size power head do you use for 1200mm bar? Thanks Steve

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi Steve, good question. We are running the Stihl MS880 which is a ~120cc 2 stroke. Hope that helps, Bongo.

[@stevesanders3992]

Great thanks I just purchased a 3120 xp 2nd hand 3 years old. Just need to get a longer bar and make a Alaskan mill. Thanks for the great tips will fit an oiler on the tip as well

[@joshturner9766]

where do u find your trees? im from bristol and got all the kit to mill and make a desk but no trees :

[@FloweringElbow]

Good evening Tommy. It's a good question. I am lucky enough to have access to a load on my parents farm... the one in this video was one that came down in the storms a few years back. It landed on my neighbour's house and they let me mill it.

[@Wedget]

Awesome job mate, just be aware that undoing the bar tip clamp may result in bar flex and inaccuracies, otherwise I really enjoyed watching your passion and hard work not to mention the end result which is spot on 👍👍

[@FloweringElbow]

Appreciate that friend :D

[@oilmaninpowell]

Awesome respirator! I'm curious why you use it ripping? I noticed you don't where one when say grinding chains. Are you trying to avoid breathing the two stroke or bar oil? I always wear one when grinding.

[@FloweringElbow]

Good morning Oilmaninpowell, good question, and yes, it is because I want to avoid breathing the fumes from the two stroke engine, as well as the dust that's created from sawing. In my experience it makes a big difference to how I feel by the end of a day of milling, especially if it is a still day with no breeze to carry off the fumes. Wearing one while grinding is a very good idea, and I usually do - just in that sharpening video, it made it hard to talk... Thanks again, Bongo.

[@666MadDog]

hey, why arent you using an additional oiler?

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi 666MadDog. Thanks for the question. I sometimes do, but when the wood is so soft and more importantly, very wet, I don't bother. I just keep monitoring and so long as my chain and bar stay nice and cool, there's no need...

[@jacobbpitt]

What length bar are you running?

[@FloweringElbow]

hay Jacob, its a 47" bar

[@enricorinaldi8154]

Hello, the aluminum profiles are dimensionally 30x30 or 40x40 or 45x45, see you soon

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi Enrico. 40 x 40 with an 8mm slot is what I used...

[@enricorinaldi8154]

@@FloweringElbow Perfect if it fits your 120cc for a 90cc it will do great. Thanks for the reply but thanks even more for the videos!

[@petershupe3460]

Great job on that log. Do you find the 880 adequately lubricates the cutting edge and tip with just the saw oiler? Have you considered adding a auxillary oiler at the tip? *EDIT* - just watched one of your other videos. Do you have a video about your auxillary oiler? Did you drill the bar? Also how do you plane or sand or finish the surface on such large slabs? I just ordered an MS 880 with the same bar and through my research the hard nose bar doesn't seem to be great for milling like this. But Stihl does not make a 48" with a roller tip. Also it is so much cheaper to get this length bar when buying the saw, it does not make sense to add a rollertip bar from a different manufacturer. Again, very cool stuff. Thanks for sharing.Cheers Peter.

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi Peter. Thanks for watching and getting in touch! Good questions. I don't have a vid on the oiler, and have found that I don't really need it unless I am cutting very dry wood (which I haven't done for a good while. I find the ms880 lubes it enough that the chain doesn't get too hot cutting wide slabs - this poplar was really wet, so I didn't even consider it... I didn't drill the bar for the oiler - just had the silicone hose end near the chain / bar nose. Agree with you about the saw and bar - it made sense when I was buying to go with the 48" hard nose, even though I too would have preferred a roller nose. I haven't regretted it though, and have no complaints. In terms of finishing the slabs, my planer capacity is 40cm - so not with that. In the past I have used a router sled setup. But... I am part way through a big-ish CNC that should be able to flatten them nicely once dry - assuming I ever get it finished ;) Thanks again for watching. Peace, Bongo.

[@petershupe3460]

@@FloweringElbow - Very cool. I have a 40 cm jointer / planer combo and my father has a 50 cm thickness planer. He just built a router sled but we will have to make some adjustments to get it to work with the larger slabs. Thanks for the tips on the bar and I'm glad you have had some good experience with that bar. I like being able to clamp closer to the end with the solid nose bar for sure. I have a small CNC machine 60 x 90 and have thought of a larger machine but do not have the space at the moment. Thanks for the quick reply. Cheers Peter.

[@brianbower30]

Finally fun music

[@sethlewis705]

What kind of mill are you working

[@FloweringElbow]

A diy one made with aluminium extrusion.

[@papaandnanahomestead1467]

One interesting thing about Poplar wood. Termites wont hardly touch it.

[@HoneyDoHomestead]

You probably would not have had to dismount the end of the chainsaw if you cut the wide end at 2 diagonals first, the way you cut the first log, then cut normally from the other side.. it would have required pulling the mill out though, which might mar the cut..

[@wrongchannelitstheotherroughhe]

Great video 👍 To get the cleanest finish, try zero degree cutting tooth angle. 👍

[@theremainingplank]

My back would be torn to shreds after this.

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi Brian, It's tough work, I won't say it isn't. Fun though ;)

[@buddysinsight9834]

Hello mate I hope you are well I am just about to start my exciting milling journey but there's a couple of things I still haven't studied in more detail. Do you mind if I pick your brains on them . How critical is it to get the centre of the log is 30mm out an issue? People don't explain it on KZbin. I have made my own mill and I have put two wheels on the mill so that when the chainsaw is pulled towards the log the wheels run along the fixed ladder do you think this will pay off? I have two big oak trees to mill so I am just wanting to hit the ground running and make it a successful start. I have the after experience of levelling and making tables so I should crack it. I am a solo carpenter Glassrivertables on instagram. What part of the uk are you from you could be local to me ? Thank you

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey Buddy. Thanks for getting in touch. Sounds like you are getting prepped well. I don't fully understand the question about the centre of the log? It will make a difference in terms of grain pattern, but cuts anywhere should be fine for the actual milling process...? We're in mid Wales near carmarthen. We experimented with skate wheels on the mill, kind helps, a skid is just as good...

[@buddysinsight9834]

@@FloweringElbow Thank you for getting back to me. I made some tables recently and they turned out to be so much harder to finish. The reason for that is because who ever did the milling didn’t run with the logs centre points. It crossed grains so the wood grain turned out of the surface of the slabs. I makes such a difference to the quality of a table. You will often see people measuring each end from the middle of the log to the top of the ladder to get it parallel with the grain. One of the oaks I will be milling has a big crotch end making it very difficult to find it’s central point on that end. I guess I will just try and guess the centre point. I thought I would ask because I don’t know how critical it is to get it exact.

[@ukfhjmvhj]

Question, how long is that bar.

[@deadheaders86]

I have an older, smaller saw, and was wondering about making something of an i.v. drip gas supply i could just hang nearby so I wouldn't run out while cutting long slabs. Anyone?

[@FloweringElbow]

Good morning Deadheaders, it's an interesting idea. With a smaller I'd be tempted to say giving it a rest halfway would be good for the saw. Just don't run out of fuel if you can help it - that makes the saw race and run VERY hot.

[@deadheaders86]

Indeed, I learned that the hard way. Nowadays I usually set a water bottle of frozen water on the gas reservoir before cracking it open, but ot still hisses with pressure, and is boiling upon inspection. Plus, halfway through it is difficult to refuel at horizontal, not to mention that I cannot fill it all the way either. Even after filling sideways it is a bitch to start. I think I need a newer bigger saw.

[@FloweringElbow]

@@deadheaders86 Bigger saw my friend 🤟 sounds like you deserve it ;)

[@MegaDavyk]

What brand is you mill?

[@FloweringElbow]

Good afternoon Truth Seaker, thanks for the comment friend, and sorry for the late reply. It's a DIY mill made from standard profiled aluminium extrusion. Hope that helps, Bongo

[@RenaissanceThinking]

Do you find it necessary to unbolt the bar from the mill and flip the bar over periodically, much like you do when you're using chainsaws for just cross cuts?

[@FloweringElbow]

Good evening Wm, good question. Yes, but I don't mill so much that I have to do it very often. Mainly bar wearing is a problem if the chain isn't super sharp, or isn't getting enough oil. If the chain is ground so that it is almost pulling the saw through the wood, the cutting face of the guide bar doesn't get any much pressure... hope that helps.

[@RenaissanceThinking]

@@FloweringElbow that does help. Thank you.

[@marcelobarbosa4792]

which current is indicated for use with this equipment?

[@TandD1w]

The link to the mill got purged out. Could you provide the search criteria so I can find the drawings? The design has some definite advantages over a Granberg.

[@FloweringElbow]

Thanks for the heads up. I have have edited the description, so the link to plans is now true. Good luck and let me know how it goes ;)

[@jeffrall6863]

Nice Bro I would make an outdoor bench out of that. and some Skateboards out of the waste. And some Pipes & Chillums out of that waste. Peace Bro.

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey Jeff, thanks for this. Here's my outdoor bench attempt: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2esaIKCeb2EqpY Funnily enough I had to look up (google) what Pipes & Chillums were in this context. Thanks, Bongo.

[@jeffrall6863]

@@FloweringElbow Wow nice job Thanks for sharing.

[@muzzleblastm38]

what type of chain are you using

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi friend. It's a Stihl RS .404 standard cross cut chain ground to 20degrees. Check out my vid on chain sharpening for more on this ;)

[@johnhart8861]

Very nice nice job.

[@mikehodson4911]

what type of gas mask do you use. Just started milling myself and noticed you cetainly get a lung full of carbon monoxide!

[@FloweringElbow]

Hi Mike, I'm now using an integrated face shield and dust mask which I got from ebay, and its a complete game changer! I originally got it for all kinds of other workshop tasks like painting, epoxy use, and sanding. In the past, even when I wore a separate dust mask, I would get dry eyes - no more! For chainsaw milling it's perfect, giving good visibility and clean air, free of the cocktail of fumes you get from using a two stroke engine. It's the 3M 6800 full face "equivalent" which means it's a cheaper import (only about $30 here: goo.gl/kVGmyk), but I use it with the genuine 3m 6001 vapour filters, with 5N11 dust pre-filters (ebay link: goo.gl/PNXNEq) . My radio ear defenders I won in an Instructables contest - also a bit of a game changer... :D

[@johnryan2894]

Well done you must be a happy man with those beautiful beutes level keep as much the way they are as one cannot improve on what we can't make just inhance

[@HashimAN-sh6vn]

God bless us

[@gary_glover]

Comment for the algorithm

[@sethlewis705]

Hay I'd love to cut those logs

[@jeremyjenks]

How about instead of buying the book you sell me the mill as a kit?

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey Jeremy, thanks for watching and commenting. :) I have thought about doing kits in the past, but it all gets too time consuming when you're trying to design and make a CNC machine, renovate a JCB and build a house at the same time. The book would serve you well though, even if you end up buying a mill - and the build in the bok just uses off the self parts... ;) Good luck whatever you choose. Peace, Bongo.

[@sethlewis705]

That's bad to the bone

[@thetruth156real3]

Why has he got a gas mask on?

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey Liddy, check out the 17 milling tips video for the answer... In short he, that is I, get sick from a day of standing about in two stroke fumes and wood dust without it.

[@thetruth156real3]

FloweringElbow I wouldn’t do anything by choice if it meant wearing a gas mask. Still you need idiots to do the jobs we won’t.👍

[@FloweringElbow]

​@@thetruth156real3 haha. I aim to serve!

[@thetruth156real3]

FloweringElbow of course I am only joking,, it is best to look after your health so you can enjoy doing what you do for a long time. Don’t forget ear plugs as well,,most important.

[@Lyuberetskyizuver]

😃👍👍👍👍🪵🪓🪵🪓🪵🪓🪵🪓👍👍☝☝👍