Milling logs with the Granberg Alaskan chainsaw mill - Tips and observations

So here I am having some fun with my Granberg Alaskan MK III chainsaw mill. The chainsaw mill is paired with a Stihl 661 running a 36" bar and I'm using a custom ripping chain made by the local Stihl chainsaw dealer in the area.

[@TheWebMindset]

Excellent video. Really appreciate the explanation of the "why" you're doing what you do. I'll be getting my Granberg tomorrow and will start off right! Thanks, mate

[@offgridwarrior]

Thank you Chris. Good luck with your projects, stay well.

[@ejsocci2630]

Awesome and I like the way you share things.

[@58belvedere]

I have a Granberg mill also. It's a good idea to let the saw run for a minute after a long cut on a log it lets the saw cool down a lot better than turning off right after a run the saw is real hot. It's just something I do and I think it adds more life to the saw.

[@fredscheerle7592]

your not going to run out of fuel by letting the saw idle and cool down a bit between cuts, but by all means switch saw off to refuel and leave 1/2 of air space for expansion.

[@DaveJohnsonad5nm]

Made my guide with 1 1/2" angle iron and welded spacer bars from the underside. As opposed to screws I welded pins to grab the timber slab so the guide didn't slide with the mill frame. To reduce the ware from the metal on metal I put 3/4" Teflon strips on the angle iron rails countersunk by 1/4". I built 2 10' sections that can be bolted together. That was 15 years ago and I still use the same rails today.

[@davidlatham312]

I'm enjoying all your videos. I've just recently pulled my Alaskan mill out of storage and going to start milling some wood myself. Also, as a former rigger on a heavy lift crew I'm impressed with your moving the logs onto your house and how you set things up ! "What ever it takes" is what we used to say and you've done it finely ! Congrats on the home and good luck with all your projects ! DL

[@ces-wx9nl]

I just received mine in the mail the other day. I cannot wait to get started, thanks for the tips

[@Meinzelin]

This is a great idea you used for your initial straight cut. I will be building one of these guide rails so I can start using the chainsaw mill I purchased. Thanks a ton!

[@all4180]

Awesome, just what I needed!!! Still trying to find land, but when I finally do, I'll be mentally ready for the big job ahead!

[@keithburgoyne3366]

If you watch my man, he knows what he's doing. He scampers over the logs with the greatest of ease... People like this are professionals, whether they know it or not, and don't need our paltry safety suggestions. OFG has, very obviously, doing this for a long time. Good on you, my man!

[@ejsocci2630]

Awesome and as I said, I enjoy your videos. Thanks

[@107retired]

I enjoyed your brutal honesty about setting your guide board screws too deep!! A most helpful tip that you COULD have left the unsuspecting to discover for themselves. Kept me watching and got me to subscribe! Tip of the hat to you!

[@joesinakandid528]

Adding a small right angled plate to the bottom of the guide board and then driving the mounting screws PARALLEL to the guide length and sideways into the log will effectively eliminate any chance of screws or nails damaging the chain's teeth since they will not be driven DOWN into the log but rather sideways into it. . Initial entry angle of the chain going into the log can be better gauged by watching the longitudinal brace directly under the black push handle.

[@beebob1279]

Great end product for building a log cabin. Also, I'm glad to hear that you aren't afraid to tell your mistakes. I'm worried about catching the screws myself when I'm going to start milling.

[@elli0122]

This was a great video, and interesting to watch! I was inspired to perhaps build something interesting out of my OWN fallen trees! Aces! Keep up the good work. And be safe!

[@hillbillydualsport]

Dude you the man! My grandpa had a system just like this!

[@kmake8321]

Great video man, no BS just straight talk. Great tips.

[@kevinlovelace385]

Suggestion, when starting a new cut without a guide board, find a way to start the cut without exposing your midsection to the blade. I noticed when you were kneeling directly in front of the blade that; 1 - you are not wearing chaps ($75 could help save your life or severe injury) and 2, your midsection is directly in the kickback zone. A stackable box with shims could be placed at the end of the log far enough away to get the blade started but close enough to support both guide rails until you are further in the cut. Great video though! Have fun with your project.

[@offgridwarrior]

+Kevin Lovelace Thanks for the advice, I shall keep your tips in mind.

[@cdawg9149]

Or at least a chain guard on the guide somehow that can be removed when the cut is deep enuf..

[@NathanVdV]

there is no kickback zone with an alaskan mill........

[@detailmasterconstruction5014]

You could also attach 2 temporary 36" x 1" angle iron on both sides of log to support the saw upon entrance to the 2nd cut use 2 more to catch the mill upon exit if the log. Use a level to align angle to log plane

[@martinbyrne6643]

You will only get kickback when the tip of the bar on the top side comes in contact with the wood ‘ if you look closely at the tip of the bar it is Incased in a steel guard ‘ so kickback in next to lmpossible

[@MrKaleohano]

Dear OGW, I just now subscribed to your channel! All i can say is WOW!! good job my friend i have watched a couple of your videos, and i am very impressed. I plan to keep on watching. Thank you for the time you are taking to show us rookies who have no idea in what it takes to build a cabin. Your loyal watcher Duane.

[@JimmerJamesKM]

I just bought one of these and have not used it yet! This was GREAT!!! THANK YOU AGAIN! You vids just ROCK Brother!!! WAY Cool!

[@offgridwarrior]

Thanks for your comment Jimmer. Good luck with your projects, keep well.

[@davidmclellan9967]

Great job keep the info comming. I like the rail design. May try it also.

[@Rlksr52]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It takes time to do a video. Much appreciated!

[@offgridwarrior]

Thank you.

[@johnsaintvincent8406]

Your videos are very instructive.

[@jamesdavid6122]

That was an excellent video. thank you for sharing

[@fredbussiereremax]

I love your vid. Your 661 starts easy. My 660 takes a man and a kid to start it and sometimes she needs to be talked to very nicely!! I have the same setup and do my second cut just like you!! Looking forward to see finished products.

[@offgridwarrior]

+Frederick Bussiere I Loooove my 661! Build is stalled right now due to weather but I will be documenting entire build... and a few other things.

[@kpm022012]

Quick tip for slab wedges.... Next time you go to a Home Depot or Lowes, go to the paint section and snag a hand full of the large paint sticks. I have dozens now and they work well. If for some reason to knick it with the chain.... Nothing happens to your chain. Plus the paint sticks slide in nicely and usually all the way through past the middle of the log to be slabbed. Anyway great video

[@Worlddeece]

that mill adaption is genius!

[@AirborneSapper7]

you just saved me 300.00 plus shipping for rails for the first cut to get a flat surface.... genius, and saving cash is always good

[@condeerogers5858]

You are amazing. And you are doing it by yourself. You got a lot of guts. Good man.

[@offgridwarrior]

+Condee Rogers Thanks... it's really not as difficult as it may look.

[@daveforman5097]

Nice, mate! Needed exactly this to see how one of these worked

[@cascaderetriever7618]

Nice work! Thanks for teaching

[@vlamgat8379]

You're awesome and thanks so much for your videos.....I wish I can learn more from you.

[@vlamgat8379]

Thank you so much

[@xseedlingx]

Nice gear ! Awesome video

[@matrixi4i]

Great video , Keep them coming Boet

[@offgridwarrior]

+matrixi4i Cheers and thanks.

[@adventure002006]

Thanks, nice to see Alaska mill in operation. Great tip on debarking with the heavy pole. Dirt in bedded in bark dulls the blade. I had to go through chain saw safety course with Rangers. Few small tips to keep you good looking. Always start chain saw with chain brake engaged. Wear chaps, helmet with face shield and good heavy gloves like welder gloves. On average contact with turning blade causes 150 stitch wound. Your unprotected legs were way to close to blade. Awesome job doing la job many of us would shrink from.

[@jadedeyesamuri]

that's just beautiful!

[@jamesmunster8312]

Great job brother 👍

[@georgetucker336]

Thanks for information of the way you mill pine logs. Different approach using the 2x10 and 2x4's for the level base

[@marcmoberg]

If you put your wedges in before finishing your cut, you won’t pinch your bar at the end. Don’t hammer your wedges in. Just place them in and nudge it with your hand. If you hammer it in, you can change the angle of your cut.

[@joesinakandid528]

Many people call those plastic wedges "Felling Wedges" even though they are properly termed "Palm Wedges". They were designed to simply stop the kerf closing and pinching the bar / chain during felling and bucking. They never were intended to be beaten into a cut with a hammer - ever. As Marc said, snug the wedge into the kerf only using your hand.

[@SuperHurdman]

I like that idea! There also is a show called timber kings out in the west in BC Canada they use a pressure washer to peal which is easier if a person has access too but definitely off grid it is possible but by no means your way is great!

[@davidthorne6796]

Great video! Detailed layout of the execution! I'd love to see chaps... That kneeling starting cut could get very ugly...real fast if it were to kickback... There can always be hidden materials in the wood. Velcro a open top bubble level Accross your rigs top bars and remove as soon as you're in the wood. Great vids!

[@oldtimer43]

I think any of us that have used a chainsaw mill has hit a screw at some time! Nice video

[@guymcelwee334]

I made a log table so that the logs are about waist high. That limits the bending over so much. More work to get the logs up onto the table but ramps and winch help. So much eaiser on the back. Good video. Thanks and be safe out there.

[@kiaya007]

great video and thanks for sharing. another tip i got from this is to stand upwind of the log unless you want a shower of dust all over you. oh and along with all the other safety gear is to wear a dust mask. i assume you will move these logs to the saw mill to make 2x6's before they start to change their shape too much since you've removed the sides the stress in them will start to do that. unless you have a use for these logs as they are? moving these will be much easier now that they all have a flat bottom and top to stack them up with. thanks again. :)

[@928s4style]

Nice work

[@vid1001]

Hi Really good advice - lots of good tips - I've just bought a mill - so many thanks - BUT - sorry to labor this - but the comments about your legs from the others are spot on !!! Please buy some chaps :)))) I'm in construction and it was the first thing I noticed! Take care dear boy :))

[@offgridwarrior]

Thanks, glad you were able to get some tips from this video... yes you are right, SAFETY FIRST PEOPLE! Do as I say not as I do. Take care.

[@norman1826]

good job mate....

[@flyingled3176]

My start board is 2 lengths of steel pipe with angle iron welded on the ends with 2 holes drilled on each end and screw the screws in horizontally, just don't hit the angle iron. Works well after ripping a big log in half it won't wobble on the corner

[@plutothor5592]

Makes sense that your chain lasts longer if you debark, since the bark traps dirt from being blown by the wind and from skidding.

[@davidbohacec]

I noticed in this video , when you kneled down exposing our leg to a possible chainsaw kick back , I knew you were going to get a lot of comments!

[@X737_]

davidbohacec kickback in a mill Frame,,,,,,,,

[@jamesstockbauer1245]

Smooth as a gravy sandwich

[@nemaproducts]

Boet after that you need a klippies and coke ... got one in my hand right now ...missing home ?? ..haha! I'll be there soon !!

[@rickrick7895]

If you screw a couple pieces of scrap wood to the end s of the log you can attach your guide board to them for the second cut.

[@paulinglis9774]

ive got a mill the same and added a hand boat winch to give more consistantent cutting ang less fatigue

[@rexmccomb7589]

I really enjoyed your video. when you get your Alaskan sawmill can you get two of those aluminum braces that go across that you used instead of putting the board down if you had two of them there it would make the saw a lot easier for you to hold up. When I order mine I will ask for one for me. Maybe that could be an update from the factory

[@lionelbourgeault8986]

To support you saw when following the flat already cut, just lay your 2X12 top side down extending it enough to where you would like to support your rig. Get a steel pipe with two holes drilled at one end about 2" apart to accept screws fastened to the log and the top of the pipe will follow the the line of your guide. You need only support the end furthest away from you but you may want to do this on either side of the log. I recomend you use a 3/4" pipe so you can mill a flat 4/4 or 5/4 board. Note use screws that not to long if your milling 1" boards. Be smart be safe...Enjoy

[@TryThinkingAboutIt]

Thanks very much. Can I suggest you consider starting the saw with the chain break ON? Just a little bit safer. By definition the kick-back referred to below (by someone other than you) cannot happen (because the saw is in a frame with the nose completely protected)

[@offgridwarrior]

+Ian Simpson Thanks Ian... I will keep your suggestion in mind when I am milling again.

[@starlightengramA]

If you had a guide like a long snout on the rig it could lay on your deck ahead of the second starting cut so beginning your thickness on the first slab would be spot on parallel. The snout could simply swing away or pull out with a clevis pin. Likewise on the trailing top cross bar to keep the finish parallel instead of drooping off. Just my 2 cents worth.

[@Marcuslobenstein]

Just to consider go down on your knees more. I saw many of your videos and you have the habbit of pulling with your back. I'm impressed with your work!

[@drewjohnson4673]

Draw a mark at six inches. With the guide bar on the top of the log and the blade on the six inch mark, the blade should be level with the desired cut.

[@dannytheplumber7394]

thank you for video. i would like your opinion on which you believe a 24" or 30" or 36" is the best practicle purchase for those typical size logs,( to mill 6x6's 6x8's 8x8 6x10 8x10" 8x12" etc), I am looking to buy and it just seems to me that 36" alaskan mill is uncomfortably too wide.

[@guymcelwee334]

Just a suggestion.I have the same mill as you do.I try to get logs atleast waist high to cut up. Saves a lot of wear on the back.enjoy your video.thanks for sharing.

[@offgridwarrior]

+guy mcelwee You are absolutely right about getting the logs higher before milling. Thanks.

[@carldewitz5239]

I can see my self setting the screws in to far thanks

[@PrinceofLiberty001]

The reason your chain is getting dull is because there is dirt in the bark. I like your channel keep posting.

[@offgridwarrior]

+H.R.H. Roger De Brus (Axiom Knights) Agreed... dirt will toast your chain sooner.

[@michaelcarron4070]

Great a little tricky starting the cut, ok though. Get the log 2 foot higher.

[@forest_dweller_2]

Thanks so much for posting this... how long to make each cut? It's hard to tell when you fast forward. My first freeslab cut took me 90 minutes! :P

[@beatntime]

Here's my trick for starting a new cut without the guide overhang. Hold the mill by the upright near the top closest to you. This will make it very easy to level the mill (pendulum effect). It also lets you stand to the side just in case there is kickback. Check my old video for more details. Also: Here is the pattern for rip-chain teeth if anyone needs it. Rip-chain has two kinds of teeth - Chippers and cutters. They are set in pairs so that there are two cutters followed by two chippers. To make a cutter, remove the sideways part of the top of the tooth. You want a "knife" that just sticks straight up with the cutting angle filed to 45 degrees. To make a chipper cut the tooth back until it can be filed at 0 degrees. The finished chain will have two "knives" of skinny teeth -one on each side, followed by two teeth that are square to the chain. I just used a standard file depth, and it workes great. Note that the cutter teeth are a bit longer, and cut into the wood sooner than the chippers (Because the chippers have to be cut shorter to make them square-up). This helps make a smoother cut on your lumber.

[@offgridwarrior]

+IcicleImaging Thanks for tips, much appreciated. I watched your video. Keep well.

[@MassiveOnslaught]

one tip to make one man operation easier..wrap a wire tie around trigger that can easily slide on and off while milling. once you get your cut going it's nice to be able to free up the throttle hand.

[@offgridwarrior]

+David Sarli Thanks David, I will give that a try in the upcoming months.

[@leeskithree]

make an angle, 2 short pieces of 2x12 in the shape of an "L" and screw it on the end of the log there by extending the length so you can rest your mill on it. Just a suggestion. Great video, I will be getting an Alaskan mill next year and I hope it works on ash

[@offgridwarrior]

+Lee Hedges Thanks Lee... good idea.

[@BRadWilson3]

Do you have the oiler turned up when you are milling? Thanks

[@TheJimconacher]

I did notice your thigh was right next to the saw on that second cut man. Gotta watch them body parts. I liked your video, Thanks Jim

[@HJMC3345]

Jim: here in the Pacific Northwest of the US we have a lot of heavy timber, and the number one thing you see plastered on every bit of equipment, machinery and tools are the words "safety first"!I hope our friend has the insurance paid up and the ambulance service is fairly close. Would only take one little grab the chain.

[@matt74670]

I have the same mill just a smaller saw with an 18in bar, the clamps that hold the bar in place either pinch to much that the chain cant spin or if i loosen it just a bit the bar will slide out of the clamps and the chain will hit the metal. I bought a 25in bar with a ripping chain havent used it yet but hoping it was just the small bar being the problem. How are you getting it to not pinch or slip out?

[@stephenzevetchin]

can you mount 2 bullet levels to achieve near level by sight? or just throw away the first foot of every board.

[@anonymous_friend]

How many of those cuts can you make before you have to sharpen the chain? Do you go through a lot of bar and chain oil ripping?

[@jmt645411]

2 BY 4 RUN OFF BOARDS FOR STARTER GUIDES ATTACH TO SIDE OF LOG AT START POINT

[@all4180]

How small a Stihl would you suggest for the 30" mill? I hear you absolutely need to go to the pro levels even if just to be able to adjust the bar oil feed flow, basically to max. Wondering what the smallest saw would be recommended? I know, the biggest you can afford, but how small is too small. Will be mostly dealing with evergreens and poplar. Very little hardwood, at least initially... Thanks.

[@loooseunit]

Its a wonder they didn't stick two handels , one with a remote throttle on that mill . Wouldn't it make it easier ?

[@gregbrooks9546]

I am going to buy either the Alaskan or the Logosol M8 mill. It just seems that the Logosol M8 is a lot easier to use especially when you get a little older. Just curious to know why you went with the Alaskan vs. the Logosol M8

[@jamesnichols5903]

Every time I mill, I get choked out with exhaust. It gets so bad sometimes that it stings my eyes and I have to take a break. Any thoughts or suggestions?

[@gregbrooks9546]

I have been wanting one of these badly, however, I just found the Logosol Farmer M-8 mill and thought it was a better setup. Just curious as to why you did not go with the Logosol M-8

[@chestermicek]

I thought it was a good video and I liked the plank you screwed into the top of the log to be milled. Other millers use an extension ladder, but I like the certainty of your jig. By the way, what is the size of your Grandberg jig? I bought a 30" with an upgrade kit. What do you find is a good working size? It looks like you are out at 50". Is that any safer or easier than 36? One other question, I bought a 6HP Stihl 461. Is that enough for logs the size you are working with? By the way, I subscribed because I thought your video was both realistic and candid.

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

I'm using an MS 461 with a 36" bar and a 36" Granberg mill set up with a winch. I have milled ash ranging from about 20" to 29" with it and find the power of the MS 461 to be more than adequate. For the few boards near the "middle" of the log the forward travel is a little slower but not enough that I care...

[@timbennett9312]

really enjoyed the video. I have been looking at this device and am pretty impressed. I'm living with my young family up in the TN mountains with lots of lumber on our land. Mostly oak, maple but there is some pine too. How does the process do with oak ?

[@offgridwarrior]

+Tim Bennett Hi Tim. The process would be very similar, keep in mind Oak is a dense wood and is much heavier than most other species typically used in the construction of log homes, heavier logs will be more challenging to build with. The good news is that Oak has a natural resistance to decay and insect damage due to natural chemicals in its heartwood. This natural resistance means that oak does not require as much rot/decay treatments as other wood species. You mentioned Pine.. I would stay away from using pine logs if you can, this is obviously a soft wood and not ideal if you have other options. Oak will be incredibly touch on a chainsaw mill... be prepared to go through chains and to sharpen often! All the best to you and your family and thanks for the question.

[@timbennett9312]

thank you so much for your information. All the best Tim

[@mattm3256]

Thanks for doing this video, great tips. I'm interested in the tool you're using for debarking. I'm going to be debarking a few logs soon. I searched Collins axe, Colins axe, kollins axe but just find regular axes. Any other name that goes by possibly. It looks like it would work well.

[@hunter6674]

I found a tool on Amazon that looks a lot like the tool he uses for stripping the bark. It's called 'Bully Tools 91300 Floor Bully Flooring Scraper. Long Fiberglass Handle'. Probably doesn't have the same weight as the tool he uses but looks like it would work just fine. Can't verify that fact because I don't have this tool but from what I can tell it's similar on the business end of it.

[@mrbluenun]

Can you not turn the log over onto the flat part you just cut, refit the wooden log guide and cut again, then the saw will be better balanced perhaps with enough hanging over the log ends? Though you may have to make some extra guides, or a completely new wider guide for the parallel cut the second time it will keep the saw accurate and from near the ground. Of course you could use a ladder also.

[@offgridwarrior]

+mrbluenun I think a aluminum ladder is probably the best way to go.

[@cookinitmax]

What a lot of work how long to finish do you think?

[@Banguts]

I know they say not to, but I, like yourself, enjoy the thrill of propping up my sharp-ass saw with my thigh.

[@einsteindrieu]

Nice,be careful !

[@embaradosmithingandwoodcraft]

ok constructive if ya want a 6x6 your spot on if ya want 1 inch boards you'll only get 4 remember loss of material for bar thickness so if ya want 1 by boards from a 6 in rough cut add 1.5 in to mill height on 2nd cut to compensate for bar thickness to get 6 1bys if you want to run through a planer add an additional 3/32 to each 1 by so ya end with a 1 by after planing

[@offgridwarrior]

+embarado smithing and woodcraft Thanks for the info. I ended up just cutting 6" H x whatever the width of log was for my floor joists.

[@captbiggems]

I noticed that you've moved a lot of earth where your cabin is and where your log like is. How did you do this? Did you make a video of that process? Thank you!

[@offgridwarrior]

+Erich Mayr I traded a cord of wood for an hour of cat work. We did not actually move a lot of earth.

[@forest_dweller_2]

.... dont try to mill the ends of your screws... love that tip!

[@shawnhyde1280]

@19:23 one kickback and you'll lose a leg. other then that good video. you could leave the top guide on and start your next cut then after its started take it off and finish without the top board. only takes a minute to adjust the height, might take a lifetime to get over a chainsaw injury.

[@jrlalonde2204]

Avez-vous pensé à installer un carré de plexiglass sous le plateau pour avoir un appuie lorsque vous débutez les coupes qui n’ont pas votre 2x12?

[@salmonhunter7414]

That blade seams to be working really well. Did your Stihl dealer do anything special to achieve this result?

[@offgridwarrior]

My Stihl dealer made a custom ripping chain for me, works well however I had similar results with your typical store bought Stihl chains. A ripping chain will result in a rougher surface after cutting.

[@danielbratanov9450]

BRO PUT SOME WOOD TO SUPPORT WHEN YOU START ON THE EMPTY SIDE TO START RIGHT ANGLE LIKE T SHAPE SMALL STAND

[@jrx2662]

why not use a longer guide board on the log for starts and ends? it will keep it steady!

[@usmcsotg1994]

Why not just use the guide board again for the second cut? That's what they do when they are sawing planks. That way you don't have to worry about the saw tilting. It will be square and level just like on the first cut.

[@marc2180]

I guess one problem with that is you have to sink screws into the wood. That might be an issue depending on what the lumber will be used for.

[@davidmarklein]

@@marc2180 not if you flip the log over and duplicate the first cut.. But depth may be an issue depending on log selection

[@davelee5605]

2ND CUT... Scribe a line with a black ink marker...

[@Derwentmole]

Nice video. What saw are you using please? 880 or 660? Cheers.

[@offgridwarrior]

+derwentmole 661... LOVE this chainsaw!

[@marcelobarbosa4792]

Todo afternoon how many inches this saw guide?

[@jamesedwards1528]

If you plan on doing a lot of cutting in that spot maybe a 4 to 1 pulley system save your back .

[@dethmaul]

I'm looking at the Mark 4, Amazon doesn't specify the minimum bar length. I can see where the rails adjust, how short does the mill go? I have a 16" bar 34cc. I'm just buying it to do one log, since having it milled will cost more than the mill. And who cares if I screw it up, I'll chop the pecan into firewood lol

[@dethmaul]

@Paul Cox Thanks! I had a friend do it for me, i didn't end up buying it. But I'll know how to make it work when i do!

[@dethmaul]

@Paul Cox Right on! I'll look that up.

[@chestermicek]

Once again, is it easier to mill a 20" log with a 52" saw blade and a 50" inch Granberg saw mill?

[@offgridwarrior]

I would say that sounds like an overkill, a 36" set up would work fine.