Goodman Gas Furnace making noise

[@waltradcliffe4482]

As I have said before no matter what the profession intermittent problems are the worst and it rarely acts up when you are looking for it!

[@johnnydoe7089]

I a m about to watch the second half of this call but before I do I'd like to put my two cents in. I don't think it's the pressure switches because the board never threw out a code. I'd be more inclined to check the 110 volt connection, neutral and ground connections. I've had more than one furnace do strange things because of a faulty power connection.

[@watermanone7567]

Ted: I had a similar situation on a unit that when the blower started the wiring dropped the voltage enough so the 24 volt transformer went low enough to drop out the low voltage system. The wiring was way to small and a long run to carry the full voltage which was on the low side to begin with. The electric company stepped up the transformer and we ran a larger wire to the furnace and problem solved. Thanks for great video's.

[@alansatticisempty]

That drain set up looks suspect. Even with the furnace condensate run trap full, if the evap trap is dry the air from the evap could push that water "plug" towards pressure switch. If there was any sag in the primary it would be worse. Seems it was borderline working and cutting the cap off fixed it but that drain set up seems less than optimal.

[@ronaldclark8187]

Good call Ted. Very coincidental for a flame drop at the blower timing.

[@MrRikkitikki]

Had one like this and found the 120 volt would drop when blower came on. Discovered the installers powered furnace from an old antique disconnect. By-passed disconnect and wire nutted in disconnect box. Problem solved. Voltage drop from bad connections on old switch.

[@RVail623]

"Flame rollover sensor" is a term used on Goettl radio commercials in the Phoenix, AZ area. Whether that could be something to look at: don't know. Also: wouldn't you want hot exhaust gas going upwards through a hole in the roof, instead of down towards the ground, where the pipe cut was made? In other words: the shower drain thing should only be there to let water drain out, and not for restricting hot air.

[@robburdack4361]

we getting all fancy now with all these cut and slides and black and white ... next we will have cgi explosions as runs from under a house saving the day LOL .... as always cool vid with some real problem solving needed

[@brandonrutt2898]

What a pro. A novice would have thrown a board in off the bat and had the same issue. Well done!

[@timcastilo6962]

You got some miles on that van for sure

[@jeannetteschouten2488]

We are going to the same problem ,very noisy heather,tomorrow we have appointment the guy said it is the blower it will cost us $500hope it is the right thing.So let see what you find like to know.

[@Falcon1911A1]

9;49 I saw water dripping inside just when the fire went out, near the pressure switch and inducer motor. First one i saw was from the yellow wire just beneath the pressure switch. and the other one was from the bottom screw of the inducer motor. Where was the water coming from?

[@dongordon2334]

yeah ted is back ty for the video

[@Noneyurbusiness]

Your van says it has no oil pressure

[@sziltner]

Poor way to $Ave money using thread protectors for couplings. Thread protectors leak because they aren't tapered. But I guess if you tape and dope them they may last awhile before they start leaking gas and blowing 💣 up the house!

[@r3446]

That vent with the wye and connected to the drain is Not right! Problem with vent alright.

[@businjay]

Ive Had on those damn goodmans the Blower limit switch causing issues. its wired in series to the gas valve and seams as if when they get wet or any type of damage they cause all sorts of problems, Gas valve dropping out intermittently, my associate changed all sorts of stuff in a furnace until he handed it over to me and I just followed the Power and have had 2 of those Limit switches be bad. To hell with the Criticism, I like what your doing, Check out that Limit switch on the blower. see if its dropping the voltage to the gas valve, It wont set a code until it locks out. Thanks for sharing what you do Ted.

[@throttlebottle5906]

bad board/relays can do the same thing, pull it and look at the back side for issues. but a limit switch sure could. there could also be an AC power feed issue sensitive to vibration, like door switch, loose wire upstream, switch, splice, breaker at panel. even a thermostat wire chaffed through and hitting something or a funky thermostat, always wise to unwire them as a test on odd issues like that.

[@THESNAKE8]

Those stupid things are notorious for that, see it quite often.

[@MMMRCHPCTB]

What's going on with the oil pressure in your van?

[@throttlebottle5906]

bad sender or broken wire likely

[@xaenon]

I'm gonna guess it's a bad sender or gauge. If the oil pressure was really that low the engine would be making lots of funny noises of its own.

[@Wolfhound.]

seeing the gauge under 0 im going to say the gauge does not work

[@waltradcliffe4482]

I think that is the seat belt warning Ted doesn’t use his belt much

[@tbas1972]

Gauge took a shit or the sending unit is bad

[@throttlebottle5906]

I'd guess bad board relay or blower on low/heating speed and it's hitting the high limit, which cuts flame and brings on high speed cooling/manual relay and repeats, as it cools the limit.

[@bradw.5991]

I have found that Goodman had a run of bad pressure switches on those Furnaces (I have replace many). The pressure switch will build up resistance on the contacts and it drives the circuit board to do strange things that you would think would be a bad circuit board. Took a few hours to figure out the the first one. Put your volt meter across the contacts of the pressure switch and watch the voltage go up a down (everyone knows you should have zero on a closed, and 24vac on a open). Then take the wires off and put your ohm meter across the contacts with the inducer still running and watch for resistance going up and down with the pressure.

[@briancarlisi2224]

Please do a follow up even if you just respond on this vid. I’m continually trying to learn. Thanks Ted.

[@skatesuter5396]

How about where gas supply enters furnance, which you moved. It has no grommet installed and when unit runs it vibrates against the gas line.

[@oldhandyluke]

This is what I like about this type of work, you sometimes have to figure out everything yourself. Great video Ted.

[@arranna]

You repositioned that rubber gasket at (1:27) before you started your Big Picture™ analysis. Maybe the furnace was originally banging against that gas pipe?

[@dmiestercommkitchentech3043]

Condensation trapped in the drain cup where 2 3/8" black rubber tubes connect have seen it numerous times pull cup off and it could also have a crack in plastic allowing blower to apply pressure on the air switch

[@thomasroberts45]

Always enjoy your videos, keep up the good work! I noticed your oil pressure gauge is on zero while you were driving. Just wanted to bring it to your attention.

[@uxwbill]

I saw the flame "stammer" once before the blower had started running. My first thought was voltage drop, either on the low or line side. I'd definitely like to see more of this one, and what it turns out to be if it was still causing trouble. I hope your van has oil pressure (but I'm sure it does)!

[@davidclase2148]

The blower motor may have excessive inrush current when it starts causing a momentary line voltage drop causing the burner to go off. This is my brain storm.

[@billybbob18]

We don't install Goodmans where i work, but i sure enjoy working on them. The pressure switches are garbage, but other than that, I consider it mid grade (high-end builder grade). I've seen worse.

[@tyrelldavidson7738]

Thanks so much for this post .... we installed a Goodman furnace this summer and having same the exact problem . Seems to be loosing the common threw the pressure switch . Jobs it out and it doesn’t do that . The venter is pulling enough vaccum so maybe it’s the pressure switch but furnace is brand new and worked fine after install . I’ve also seen the same thing on a 5 year old Amana

[@blackericdenice]

Coolray said my heater is 27 years old and need to be replaced. It only needed a door switch.

[@bobbrooks123]

0 oil pressure ?

[@Wolfhound.]

seeing the gauge under 0 im going to say the gauge does not work

[@tomwalker9184]

Yes Ted , i have ran up on the same situation twice before with 2 in pipe and varmint screen. Cut it off in the Ted Cook signature 45 degree cut and it cured the problem. And the second time kid's had put rock's in the 2 inch flue pipe. Removed the rock's and installed a 45 fitting (Not Glued ) Again problem solved. As we all know back pressure in flue causes real headaches for pressure switches and Tech's on a bitter cold night.

[@winkhvac62]

24 volt to the gas valve drop when the blower start running mmmmmmm.and the noise.

[@nell7188]

I have the same problem... my goodman does this random banging noise at the furnace. It happen twice this year. Once in summer and again this week. It's so random I haven't called a technician out for repair.

[@coolmandude1000]

Check limit switch on blower Ted. Very common problem with Goodman ( Bypass with Jumper while you are there to test it to see if burner shuts off & On ) . The blower vibrates and limit switch on blower will intermittently open for a millisecond. Love that 30 Gauge duct work lol. 24-26 gauge Metal and cross broken always the only way to roll.

[@emilionunez4566]

Good info, learn something new everyday...

[@joehead1294]

That drain setup looks like it could backfeed into the coil drain pan if there was a clog.

[@paulhickey4485]

I was thinking the same thing. Back feed through AC condensate to induced fan pressure switch. That would explain issue when blower turned on. Cutting off that fitting outside probably removed that differential pressure.

[@THESNAKE8]

Mr.Ted those pressure switches need to be mounted horizontally when the furnace is installed in a horizontal configuration, we have a boatload of goodman hacks here and I see that issue 10+ times a year or better.

[@julianhawker7672]

Would that condense on the flue outlet pass code? If the trap is dry then products of combustion would be forced down the condense line and possibly out to atmosphere if theres a pump or open gully drain. I have seen it happen on a HE boiler :-( Interested to see if theres a follow up or if less restriction cures it.

[@boby115]

I have never seen that before and I've worked with a lot of Goodman's. The strange thing is that as soon as the blower comes on the burners go out which leaves me to believe it's a circuit board problem (?????). I don't believe it's the heat exchanger or exchangers because the Flames go out before the blower even gets up to pressure (????). I would call Goodman at 1-877-254-4729 & ask for Technical Services ( hopefully you jotted down the model and serial number). Let me know if they were any help.

[@10minutenewhampshirebreak77]

I've found that you have to follow the manufacturers flu pipe instructions to a tee. Also here in NH. If you use that lattice cap on the exhaust (or intake also)it will frost up and restrict.

[@houstonsbestairheat]

LoL.. keyboard warriors.. Your videos are very informative. Thanks for sharing

[@josiahpierson3636]

Those traps there didn't have vents either

[@brocklambert8417]

Awfully accepting on this video not what I'm used to hearing out of you Ted. I like to hear you be very critical about other people's installs. Very critical about a Goodman install no matter what. My favorite part of your video is a small portion of your videos but I like to see the arsenal you're going to go in with for diagnostic. I like when you choose your tools for the job. Love your videos your hell of a technician and I've learned a lot from you buddy would love to get a shout out sometime or get into one of those cool giveaways you do or used to do. I have had a loose molex plug on a control board be the issue or a condensate plugged and it act just like this.

[@MrTrailerman2]

Goodman 60,000 btu limit opens at 210° I don't think you were anywhere near that.

[@eliahh1150]

Those Goodman furnaces are very poorly built ... I had one put in this summer... the motor started rattling in 3 week ... they replaced it and the new one is even worst...

[@rfbedell347]

I haven't installed a single pipe system on any gas furnace in 20+ yrs. Most manufactures do NOT recommend this due to the atmospheric pressure differences between the Inside and outside. Couple that with a windy day impinging on the exhaust flue, can cause problematic issues with the Pressure Switches. Simply disconnecting the flue pipe at that Ferno Connector and running the furnace a minute or two would have helped diagnose these type of issues.

[@picklerix6162]

High efficiency furnace installed by Rube Goldberg HVAC.

[@ncvman]

When you first start the unit what is the fan that runs? Is the the exhaust fan or induction fan? Mine is really noisy? It’s the black part right next to the flames.

[@lcampm2]

It was hard to see, but when you cut off that elbow outside the condensation seemed to have greatly picked up. I could see it in the light and it looked like a breath on a cold day!

[@r3446]

Not suppose to have that screen on the vent either. Cutting that was a good start.

[@GregariousAntithesis]

That was some guy like me installer, just not as thorough. Homeowner install is what im saying because its just to anal retentive.

[@rickj651]

I would suspect the flue piping also there should never be any screen on the termination outside.

That’s a weird water contraption that tells me they must have had a problem with the condensing of that furnace.

[@sergiodjf]

Not a good thing to connect the flue drain & the condensate drain. If the p-trap is dry it may affect the pressure switch for the ignition

[@rocker8692]

Could it be the flame rod sensor?

[@billy5032]

Burner drops out when blower kicks on. Some kind of voltage drop or bad board

[@tonyrhoton6613]

Thats a good van according 2 the guage it has no oil pressure and still purring

[@publicmail2]

You should remove power from board for a minute and try again, microprocessors will do strange things from brownout or surges, I've see it, but it's rare. Or if that's ok, the blower is somehow effecting the pressure switch's and causing draft shutdown? But the Oatey shower drain cap, yea, probably.

[@TechnicalLee]

If the vent length is in manufacturer specs, then I'd say it's a problem with the secondary heat exchanger flow. When the gas valve clicks on and off, the noise is transferred through the gas piping into the house, and it can sound a lot louder upstairs. When the blower comes on, it can cause rapid condensation in the secondary heat exchanger and can create suction that flutters the pressure switch and the gas valve in series with it. It's similar to the effect of boiling water in a can and then dunking it in water to crush the can after the steam condenses. The door sucking in when the flame shuts off is a telltale sign. Parts of the secondary heat exchanger might be getting blocked with water or debris so it can't breathe. Could be too much airflow cooling it off or low manifold pressure too. I've seen this one other time and it was extremely difficult to troubleshoot.

[@melvinwillingham233]

Screwdriver and a pair of pliers is not going to do it.

[@ncvman]

I thought everyone one cleans the flame sensor first?

[@sknight0391]

I'm wondering if the mystery orange wire nut might have been getting pulled up into the squirrel cage and clattering around at times?

[@danwittels5542]

That's a really good thought, that didn't come close to crossing my mind. The noise did seem to dissappear once he took the wire nut out.

[@robertmeredith3940]

You still need a bird guard on the exhaust - possibly just a vertical tee. When my Goodman didn't start, I found two birds had entered the open horizontal exhaust pipe and died 8 feet and a couple of elbows down the pipe with a beak jammed into the ID fan, preventing it from turning. I ended up slipping a cap on the end with six 1/2 inch holes drilled in it, as a bird screen. No problems since; but I have added computer-controlled backup electric heaters in case of a furnace failure independent of electric failure, which is covered by a standby generator. Murphy was an optimist.

[@psuitt]

The cement used to connect the PVC piping you mentioned at the beginning of the video, may be the type for CPVC water piping and might not be appropriate for this application. It's typically the yellow color material shown but I can't be sure. A purple cleaner should be used first then a clear cement. Your work and presentation is unique and I enjoy watching your videos immensely. Love your SC accent.

[@justinhumphreys8173]

Need to disconnect the flu drain from the condensate drain, the exhaust WILL blow into the house back thru the condensate drain, also when the blower starts it will blowback into the 2" pvc exhaust and effect the exhaust pressure... opening the pressure switches causing the flame to shut off

[@waynespringer501]

Your van doesn't have any oil pressure!

[@danobrien3109]

I’d be suspect of the board. The relays on the board are weak. Seems the pull from the blower fan relay is enough to cause the gas valve relay to drop out. Once the blower relay is engaged and the amp draw peak is gone the ignition cycle restarts.

[@mikefrayman5224]

Your truck has no oil pressure

[@williammarik6159]

Ted, why would the installer put in an elbow/tee on the exhaust if the factory-trap from the inducer collector box is functional. I,m confused.

[@TheWoodman064]

Another Ted special!

[@97Napkins]

fyi i prob woulda jumped ps after start up...then maybe all switches if prob still happened. seen 1 time an old mercury cut out after run time.

[@josephrajaram3131]

Ck the flame sensor needs cleaning.

[@blueribb99]

So if you hold you hand over the pipe to cause back pressure, the limit switch would trip, cutting off the voltage to the gas valve ?

[@hardies1]

Ted, I don't have any thoughts on the furnace issue but I did notice that the oil pressure gauge in your van was not reading anything while you were traveling at the end of the video.

[@SeanFix]

Check for a voltage drop at the 24v trans. I had one that the voltage was dropping and wasn't enough to hold the gas valve open so it would stutter like that.

[@nelsoncody38]

Goodman's seem to be well known for heat trouble. It seems like half the heat calls I've gotten have been Goodman's.

[@ryans413]

As soon as he cut off the end of the exhaust pipe it sounded much better

[@timcampbell9801]

I was listening it was taking to long for the blower to come in and I think the blower wasn't coming in until the high limit opened I also agree with the flue restriction but it will show itself

[@joshhodges5688]

The second drain on two inch pvc should have a open tee after the trap. Fan knocked pressure switch.

[@ejcsds]

I thought I saw water dripping inside? under the inducer motor, looked to be starting to rust?

[@guitarboy123987]

Is there a reason that you jump out the controls instead of setting the thermostat so that it's calling for heat or cool?

[@patburnsent]

Why did you go to the unit and start rummaging around before listening for the noise with the customer

[@Jackman66666666]

I have nothing to add here.

[@GrayRealities]

Inductor motor is a common problem that will make noise when it’s going bad

[@thecoolguy23]

Maybe a bad board that is cutting the 24 v to the gas valve??

[@bobgallo2178]

Ted, something tells me that it may be a heat exchanger issue. Have seen some strange things with the Amana.

[@antoniokristler6973]

chicken wire and zip tie

[@1martinontherocks]

i had the same problem i replaced the board and limit by the blower housing.

[@dong4617]

The only thing I can think of is to check the blower motor capacitor.

[@caru3257]

I think I already watched your follow up to this.

[@usmdude1983]

Glad to hear your oil pressure gauge is lying about its pressure.

[@summersdw1978]

Wouldnt that sweep installed in exhaust, be pulling a vacumm on drain lines when furnace comes on line. Pulling water out of pee trap ?. And would that be a good thing, or bad thing ? Just asking.

[@publicmail2]

You hit it, of course.

[@NorthernS0utherer]

Could it be a cracked heat exchanger/box

[@trinito97]

Noisy goodman, i just had one with a bad nest doing something like that

[@hvactechwanttobe1499]

Just curious if you checked the air filter

[@mikehuston2132]

Its AMANA/GOODMAN run away !!!

[@IFIXCASTLES]

Strange shit

[@danwittels5542]

I would start by jumping out the pressure switch and if that didn't do it I would suspect of the exhaust as you seem to be. If you have board to swap in that might be easy thing to try. Also, see if you can get the Goodman specs for the exhaust, the run maybe to long for 2 inch pipe. Just some thoughts from a mad man, I hope they help. Thanks for sharing the mystery and please do share the conclusion!

[@moodyga40]

may there is ghost in there

[@_n8787]

I think we just figured it out, boys! lol