3d printing large parts fast and cheap!

I've been successfully using my CR-10s5 to 3d print large parts for a few years now but I've started doing something different that's drastically sped up the print process and cut down on the amount of materials used. This works great for costume parts that will be reinforced before wearing, which is something I do with most of my costume parts. I think this could be useful for other large items as well. Hopefully it's helpful!

[@bluebeast440]

EVERY SINGLE KZbinR who does 3D printing says they're using cheap filament. Most say they're using (name brand) filament for $5-$6 cheaper than normal. NO ONE EVER tells you where they're getting it. Google searching never reveals this magical land of lesser costing filaments. POST A LINK FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! Aside from that unforgiveable misstep, this video is just what I need for my plans.

[@gordontarpley]

I get it on Amazon, I never use the same brand. I just sort by price and grab the cheapest stuff I can find in grey or silver. I usually buy 8 or 10 rolls and it lasts a long time. Next time I go to buy filament, something else is cheaper. I usually don't bother to take note of the brand unless it's particularly good or bad. After a few hundred rolls of filament, I've only had TWO that weren't good. Both from manufacturers I've used many times with no issue so I just attributed the issues to the single rolls as opposed to the brand.

[@buckaroosan5571]

Definitely interested in seeing the fiberglass process.

[@Spaventacorvi]

Both the legs with less than a spool is an amazing result. Great job.

[@paulgordon1642]

Great to see you back Gordon

[@Jimadi]

This is brilliant. The only thing I would be worried about is the heat from the fiberglass resin distorting the PLA+. But, WOW what a great idea! I'll have to add this to my list to try.

[@xandersnyder7214]

Thanks Gordon! I am super interested in seeing your fiberglass process, seeing the Ahsoka trailer on Friday reinvigorated my next droid project, it's time to print Chopper! I'll be printing my parts on my Anycubic Kobra Max, Prusa i3 Mk3s "Bear" mod, and my FrankenEnder3 for the larger parts, and I will be resin printing my detailed parts on my Peopoly Forge and Peopoly Phenom Prime.

[@stevensloan6130]

Internal fiber glassing of a full scale Chopper should not be necessary. I've been driving mine at Cons for over a year and the body has not experienced a single crack, even after some rough handling. For clarity I have Mr Baddeleys animated version built entirely in PLA/PLA+.

[@colvincreations]

Really great insights. I’ll definitely benefit from this. Thanks, Gordon.

[@figuresix]

Should share a screen shot or run down of your settings for that man. Cool idea.. Thank for sharing.

[@agcacustoms2852]

We need a tutorial for the slicing cause if you can make big pieces like that in less than 2 days and in 1 roll that’s definitely a need to know for making armor and these awesome droids.

[@crazylegsmurphy]

It would be great to have a bit more info in terms of your slicer settings and the fibreglass process. I assume you then post-process after the fibreglass has been applied?

[@iklink]

How do you fiberglass the inside?

[@gregoryvandervorst5461]

Can you explain the fiberglas process ? your work is amazing !

[@mlubecke]

Thank you so much for sharing.

[@TrickyZ33]

Hey Gordon! Every time I see a protocol droid in one of the live action Star Wars shows I wonder if its YOU inside! There's been a BUNCH!

[@Rockhopper1]

amazing insight thanks mate,

[@dragoncrag]

really usefull information, Super appreciated! can you share your slicer profiles?

[@TheSerialBuilder]

Great to see and thanks for sharing. How do you remove the inside of the 3d model so you can close it? Zbrush?

[@speway]

Delicious!

[@smallnuts2]

When doing large pieces and attaching them together. How do you hide the seam between the 2 parts?

[@Art_Of_Sound]

What sort of settings did you use? Looks great

[@chrinamint]

Awesome!

[@derickkruger5680]

Can you do a vid on how you do the fibreglass process pse.

[@darrenblaze5055]

When you print hollow, what about the overhangs?

[@gordontarpley]

@@darrenblaze5055 prusa slicer has this cool feature that makes a small bridge to catch them without using infill. Really handy. I posted a video about it

[@h2so4ice]

What kind of filement do you use? I've been on the hunt for some low price rolls.

[@weswortman7789]

You can also fill them with foam.

[@gordontarpley]

It's possible but be careful because the foam can actually deform the parts as it expands. Especially when they're this thin.

[@hob976]

Does polyester resin ( fiber glassing type ) and Bondo just stick to the filament printed plastic? Do you have to treat it first? light sand?

[@MaskedCrypto]

Hey buddy I love your content. I’m planning on 3d printing a full size Lamborghini and this video is helpful. I want to fibre glass it also, is there anywhere I can message you on?

[@gregoryvandervorst5461]

a FULL-SIZE Lambo ? Whatttt a machine !

[@m..5494]

Is it possible to print a front ferring for a Harley motorcycle?

[@gordontarpley]

Most likely yes. I'm working on a hardtop for my car. I imagine a front ferring would be a similar process

[@m..5494]

@@gordontarpley Nice! What would it cost to create something like that ? I have some ideas of what I'd like.

[@gordontarpley]

@@m..5494 really depends on what materials you use and if you do all the digital work yourself or hire someone.

[@MakerMark]

um wont the fiberglass heat deform the pla?

[@gregoryvandervorst5461]

Hi ! No, fiberglass mix (or epoxy or else) does not produce heat anymore (sorry for my english). Have fun !

[@charlesforbin6937]

How's the knee......& the new home???

[@taylorengler7764]

why is every video of 3d printers of star wars nerd with their memorabilia

[@MENCC815]

You got a Instagram?